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MY WIFE just leased a 2011 Outback 2.5i CVT. Great car so far, gets 30mpg, and seems solid as a rock. The CVT seems to be really engine brake happy though, almost like a manual transmission. I realize its not the same as a normal automatic trans, but I've never driven a non-manual car that engine brakes like this thing does. Is that normal?
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Mar 7, 2011 17:05
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As for your Engine brake, all the Subaru's I have driven are like that at least slightly. They have allot of torque in low gear and tend to bounce or jerk, if you rev match in a manual and work your cluth properly you can avoid it. I dont know how to avoid it in auto trans though. Recently purchased a 2004 2.5RS with 63k miles on it. First thing I did was flush my oil and replace it with full synthetic. Next I changed the Transmission, power steering fluid, and spark plugs. I ended up adding a new intake (sick nasty!)as well, and trust me theres a difference. I am debating a turbo for my car, my friend who is a well versed mechanic does not think the 2.5RS will take a turbo. Is this true? If I can turbo it I was looking at a divorced waste-gate down pipe, with new muffler and headers, more upgrades may be necessary. The turbo would prob be 6psi or smaller (potentially 2 of them). I was thinking of pulling the inter-cooler off or a wrecked STI to save some $ on parts. What do you guys think? Gweezy fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Mar 7, 2011 |
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Mar 7, 2011 18:38
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Do not turbo a 2.5 RS motor, just buy a WRX or STI engine and put it in.
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Mar 7, 2011 18:51
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Gweezy posted:As for your Engine brake, all the Subaru's I have driven are like that at least slightly. They have allot of torque in low gear and tend to bounce or jerk, if you rev match in a manual and work your cluth properly you can avoid it. I dont know how to avoid it in auto trans though. Please read the thread.
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Mar 7, 2011 21:04
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Quick question, can someone point out the PCV in this photo? Thinking about doing a quick seafoam and was wondering where's the best way to put it in. photo in question It's a 97 Legacy GT IIRC.
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Mar 8, 2011 01:09
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Have to wait for someone to back me up but it may very well be this happy fellow:
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Mar 8, 2011 03:02
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Ok I am terrified of this being my first post, and I apologize for the likely stupidness but I am a bit anxious about this. I guess its worth a probation to get an answer fast. I've searched here and on nasioc but haven't found an answer to this specific question. I just bought a 2005 WRX MT (mechanical, non-smart diffs + lsd in the rear) about a month ago and found one of my tires was going flat really fast - like losing 5 psi an hour. Turns out it had a couple nails in it and the guy at the shop said he couldn't patch it. He also said it was fine to just swap in another used tire. Of course I know that its possible that neither of his statements were true, but given the choice of a dangerously damaged tire, the crummy spare, or an out of commission car I went for the used tire for $40. Anyway, I know I need to get 4 new tires, but should I be a scared little girl and go get hosed at NTB tonight, or am I safe ordering from tirerack and waiting a few days to get this fixed. I do have a 50 mile + /day commute and a good bit of that is on the highway. TLDR: I have one mismatched tire on my WRX (same size but different brand, different tread pattern & presumably different wear) Assuming granny driving and spending as much time out of gear as possible am I safe for a few days til I get 4 new tires? Thanks!
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Mar 8, 2011 19:36
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bamurphymac posted:If the tires are the same size, there should be no issue in terms of damage to your diff from the used tire. Since you're going to be getting new tires soonish anyway, you should be just fine. The real question is where are the pictures of your new subi so we can all high five and bro hug over it.
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Mar 8, 2011 19:42
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I have a 2000 Legacy GT sedan - the Oxygen sensor in my cat has failed, and the cat has destroyed itself from too much fuel being dumped. So I need a new cat - no problem, right? 80 bucks or so, relatively easy job. But apparently, according to the mechanic, I have to replace everything after the Y-joint where the headers meet up, two catalytic converters, everything. Apparently it all comes in one unit. Total cost of the job? $775 (parts + labour). Does this sound right to anybody at all?
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Mar 8, 2011 20:45
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You should be fine for a few days as long as you don't put on excessive mileage. The main issue is tire diameter, but you aren't going to destroy the center diff in a couple days. In gear or out of gear won't matter. The center diff is working no matter what.
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Mar 8, 2011 21:04
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yeah, so long as it is the same size and the same general amount of wear to allow for a similar diameter (what does Subaru recommend, like within 3/32" of each other?) you're not going to grenade anything in a reasonable amount of time. Find a new set of tires, but don't make any rash decisions to buy tires immediately.
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Mar 8, 2011 21:29
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stratdax posted:I have a 2000 Legacy GT sedan - the Oxygen sensor in my cat has failed, and the cat has destroyed itself from too much fuel being dumped. So I need a new cat - no problem, right? 80 bucks or so, relatively easy job. That doesn't sound like a bad deal for 2 cats, the exhaust, and labor. Who sells a cat for $80?
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Mar 9, 2011 00:25
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kimbo305 posted:That doesn't sound like a bad deal for 2 cats, the exhaust, and labor. Who sells a cat for $80? Magnaflow sells (crap?) cats dirt cheap. I've had one on all my project cars and always passed emissions.
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Mar 9, 2011 00:41
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Sockington posted:Magnaflow sells (crap?) cats dirt cheap. I've had one on all my project cars and always passed emissions. IIRC Magnaflow actually sells the only aftermarket cat with a CARB number on it right now.
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Mar 9, 2011 00:48
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Sockington posted:Magnaflow sells (crap?) cats dirt cheap. I've had one on all my project cars and always passed emissions. kimbo305 posted:That doesn't sound like a bad deal for 2 cats, the exhaust, and labor. Who sells a cat for $80? Yeah the last car I had to replace a cat in was my 1985 Honda Prelude, where all the parts were basically just different shapes of sheet metal.
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Mar 9, 2011 00:49
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I was excited to see how cheap Magnaflow's cats were for my car. They were pretty typically priced. The two cats (front and rear) for your 2000 Legacy is about $230 for a generic replacement front, which isn't a bad price: http://www.magnaflow.com/02catalytic_converters/02product/displayuniversal01.asp?catalogid=28660&universal=99184HM and other is $520 for an OEM rear, which is what seems on the money: http://www.magnaflow.com/02catalytic_converters/02product/displayuniversal01.asp?catalogid=28671&universal=41034
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Mar 9, 2011 00:58
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kimbo305 posted:I was excited to see how cheap Magnaflow's cats were for my car. They were pretty typically priced. Jeez. Alright, thanks for the info. I appreciate it... feeling better about getting the work done. It was just a drat shock, since I wasn't expecting anything close to that quote.
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Mar 9, 2011 01:29
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bamurphymac posted:TLDR: I have one mismatched tire on my WRX (same size but different brand, different tread pattern & presumably different wear) Assuming granny driving and spending as much time out of gear as possible am I safe for a few days til I get 4 new tires?
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Mar 9, 2011 09:41
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I've noticed when I stop at a light, the idle on my '08 LGT seems to dip a little low, just about to the point of stalling, before popping back up again. It hasn't stalled or anything, but is this something to worry about?
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Mar 9, 2011 15:46
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ChunksNensja posted:I have never seen a Subaru diff damaged by running tyres with mismatched tread depths. However, I have seen a diff decide to unwind itself of it's own accord and proceed to grenade a transmission.
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Mar 9, 2011 16:31
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AFewBricksShy posted:I've noticed when I stop at a light, the idle on my '08 LGT seems to dip a little low, just about to the point of stalling, before popping back up again. It hasn't stalled or anything, but is this something to worry about? possibly a dirty idle-air control (IAC) valve
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Mar 9, 2011 18:20
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Jared592 posted:possibly a dirty idle-air control (IAC) valve
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Mar 9, 2011 18:22
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Probably not on a DBW car; clean your MAF? yes that. could also have a very small vacuum leak. as for the diffs, it is hard to specifically blame it on the tires, but it will create more heat in the diff and can damage the viscous coupling. I have 3-4 broken ones here actually. Most of the time I see the spider gears break off the carrier or the spiro-lock thing come out and start rubbing on the trans case, brake off, and send little pieces through the transfer gears and the rest of the transmission. Left alone the whole diff would fall apart but usually the loud grinding noises get checked out sooner rather than later. jamal fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Mar 9, 2011 |
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Mar 9, 2011 20:26
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bull3964 posted:Got about 25 miles on the '02 now after the timing belt and waterpump change. I'm starting to relax now. Did all my running around in it tonight so there were multiple starts, stop and go traffic, and a 1st-5th hard pull on to the highway on ramp with no ill effects. If it was going to go boom from some sort of imminent failure, it probably would have done so by now. I'm about to order a timing belt kit for my '02 wagon, which one did you use? Also do you happen to have a tool list, I should have all of them but I would hate to have to run down to harbor freight with the car apart because I'm missing one.
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Mar 9, 2011 20:42
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I didn't use a kit specifically, I just pieced together the OEM parts list via part numbers and ordered them from Subaru Genuine Parts. I used Meatys series of videos from Nasioc which worked out really well going over all the details and a few tricks and tips (like setting the timing guide clearances.) I pretty much used the tool list he outlines in the beginning of the first video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mjCegTnB60 I had a few substitutions from what I had on hand, but it was pretty much the same.
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Mar 9, 2011 21:10
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literally just posted:yeah, so long as it is the same size and the same general amount of wear to allow for a similar diameter (what does Subaru recommend, like within 3/32" of each other?) you're not going to grenade anything in a reasonable amount of time. Find a new set of tires, but don't make any rash decisions to buy tires immediately. Thanks (all you guys) for the advice. People on nasioc seem to generally agree. I measured and the tire looks to be within the tolerance. I plan to get a set of 4 summer tires anyway, but i'm happy I'll be just ordering decent stuff of tirerack rather than paying a premium for crap locally. I live in Akron, Ohio incidentally, and its depressing that we don't even get a hometown discount on Goodyear or Firestone.
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Mar 9, 2011 22:06
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Autocrossing on all-seasons, yeeeeeahhhhh. Its fun to compare runs with and without traction control, works really well on a cold gravelly surface  
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Mar 9, 2011 22:30
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I still remain...puzzled that the WRX265 is still DS. I own both a 2002 and a 2011. The 2002 just wouldn't have a prayer around the course against the 2011 in stock class.
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Mar 9, 2011 22:32
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So... '98 Forester with a bad radiator, busted head gasket, and 185k on it. I don't have the time, space, or inclination to fix it. a) Is it worth anything? b) Anyone in the SF Bay interested in taking it? It's still running although it's definitely going downhill - I'd guess you'd be able to drive it where you're going, but between the head gasket and radiator the thing leaks water like a seive.
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Mar 10, 2011 05:32
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I would post on http://www.subaruforester.org/ as I know there are Bay Area members. I would say it's worth something if it hasn't overheated and warped the heads.
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Mar 10, 2011 05:42
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Speaking of Foresters and overheating; one of the local 98s has just blown its heater core and pissed some coolant into the passenger footwell. "Luckily" it was -26'C at the time, so after a careful drive home watching the temp gauge and the heater shut off it's now sitting awaiting replacement. How easy is it to overheat these things and warp the heads? I remember on my old Cavalier it was trivial because of the iron block/aluminum head design. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Mar 10, 2011 |
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Mar 10, 2011 05:58
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idiotsavant posted:So... '98 Forester with a bad radiator, busted head gasket, and 185k on it. I don't have the time, space, or inclination to fix it. I happen to be in the bay area...
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Mar 10, 2011 08:33
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jamal posted:yes that. could also have a very small vacuum leak. I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, but I know gently caress all about working on cars. Is this something I can check myself, or should I take it in to have it looked at?
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Mar 10, 2011 15:03
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AFewBricksShy posted:I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, but I know gently caress all about working on cars. Is this something I can check myself, or should I take it in to have it looked at? You could certainly inspect all the hoses you can see for corrosion/holes/tight connections.
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Mar 10, 2011 17:56
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This is a shot in the dark. I'm looking at standalone ECUs. Currently, narrowed down to a megasquirt unit or an older LinkPlus v10 G1. Cost keeps many of the other options out of range. Its hard to find information on the LinkPlus in relation to subarus especially since its never been very popular over here and its an Australian company. Thoughts? c355n4 fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Mar 10, 2011 |
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Mar 10, 2011 21:39
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awesome, getting some interior stuff fixed from the assholes who stole my stereo and getting my front end painted at the same time, this time by a quality bodyshop!
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Mar 11, 2011 00:00
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I would probably go with the link. let me see what my tooona friend from AEM says tonight though.
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Mar 11, 2011 00:01
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Dropped the car off at the dealership for it's 60k tuneup (I went with the dealer because I'm about 200 miles away from the end of my powertrain warranty) and I just got a call that they need to keep it until Monday because they discovered some substantial carbon buildup in cylinder 3 and need to clean it up before they can put the plug back in. 1) Is this something that I could just seafoam and be fine? 2) Could this have been caused by my Accessport? I have it tuned for Stage 1 91 octane because I can't reliably get my wife to buy 93 when she's in a hurry going to work. I also forgot to un-flash it before I dropped it off.  3) Seems early to have substantial carbon buildup at 60k. The guy was insistent that no matter what had to happen here, it wouldn't be a warranty repair. Is it really just a matter of running lovely fuel or not?
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Mar 12, 2011 19:18
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I have an 02 WRX. I have decided to tune it. Tonight I increased the boost limit from 13.51 to 15.01 (HOLY poo poo I KNOW RIGHT?!?!) Car seemed a bit faster but not by much. I did some datalogging at the new boost and my IATs @ WOT are low (near ambient), my IAM above ~ 1.4g/rev and 3000 RPM stayed at 16, never falling below 8 during the entire time I was driving. My knock correction advance was between 4 and 11 degrees depending on the IAM. I am thinking tomorrow I may up it to 16psi limit max @ 100% throttle and then increase my KCA Max by 1-5 degrees across the board basically. Thoughts on this? I figure it was safer this way than adding that to the base map that way the IAM could simply decrease to protect the motor. Specs on the car: 2002 WRX with lots of dents Turbo back Tactrix 2.0 Mods in the near future: Turbo back Gutted up pipe Big top mount After that, retune and maybe put on a 3 port solenoid (because I have one) I already have the big top mount and the turbo back, but I am just taking it one thing at a time. I have no experience tuning and am going based on stuff I read on these guides: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1626520 http://www.romraider.com/forum/topic1840.html http://www.accessecu.com/support/docs/tuningguide/AccessTUNER_HelpFile_Subaru.pdf http://www.romraider.com/Documentation/RomRaiderFAQ Lord Gaga fucked around with this message at 09:00 on Mar 13, 2011 |
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Mar 13, 2011 08:45
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I'm thinking of buying an Impreza WRX, however I refuse to buy the '02/'03 simply because of the headlights. While looking for WRXes though, a friend of mine offered me his 2001 Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS, it has a rebuilt engine, stage 2 clutch, brakes, calipers, slotted rotors from a 2007 STI, as well as a TSI Extreme Turbo kit which was installed when the engine was rebuilt. It has custom downpiping for a front mounted intercooler but, and I know Subaru's shouldn't have them, but it has a TSI blow off valve. It also has a Greddy Evo2 exhaust as well as stainless steel oil/water lines. Also to make it more STI like it has both front and rear 2007 STI seats. My questions are, is the BOV that detrimental to the 2.5 RS, also what is the asking price for a car like this with all those mods? e: Woops, the car has 124,000 miles on it total, but about 20k on the rebuilt engine. Yakattak fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Mar 13, 2011 |
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Mar 13, 2011 17:15
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