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So, I'm a little babby 22 year old college student getting his first car. I've always wanted a jeep and have been looking around, but the parents are -really- intent on my getting a brand new car (They've both had abysmal history with used in the past)and they are going to help out with the down payment if I do so. I've been looking for a good deal since while I have two decent jobs, I'm still only making $13 an hour and can't afford to go and pay a ton That being said, what is the goon consensus on the 2011 Compass? I know it sounds pretty much like Jeep-Lite™ but it's really loving pretty and it seems like they've done a good job with it compared to the 2010 model. Edit: I'm likely not getting this until end of June or so. Are there usually any good dealership type deals around that time? Edit #2: 4th of July, I assume. 
DarkestLite fucked around with this message at 16:21 on Mar 9, 2011 |
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Mar 9, 2011 16:18
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It's a rebadged Dodge Caliber, optionally with all-wheel drive, so it's not really a Jeep in any sense of the word. If this is really what you want, you could probably find a better price point going for the Caliber and avoiding the price tag associated with the Jeep badge. I rented a Caliber once and was really not impressed. The interior was cheap and cheesy, the performance and sound of the 2.4 was very poor, and frankly I felt embarrassed to be in it, but it was what the company paid for. At least it wasn't a PT Cruiser. I don't have a very high opinion of the Caliber platform, so I won't say much more than that.
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Mar 9, 2011 23:03
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incredibull posted:It's a rebadged Dodge Caliber, optionally with all-wheel drive, so it's not really a Jeep in any sense of the word. If this is really what you want, you could probably find a better price point going for the Caliber and avoiding the price tag associated with the Jeep badge. Welp, that's rather disappointing. I still like it, but I'll keep looking around I suppose.
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Mar 9, 2011 23:10
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The Compass usually gets trashed in comparison to other 'cute-utes' like the Honda CRV or Toyota RAV4. If you want something that can actually go offroad I'd look at the Liberty or even 'trail-rated' version of the Patriot. None will compare to a Wrangler of course but will probably be more comfortable. That said I wouldn't throw used cars out the door yet--you can get certified preowned ones with a warranty. You could get a low mile Grand Cherokee with 5.7 liter hemi V8 or even a TJ Wrangler Rubicon for about the price of a new Compass--think about it.
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Mar 9, 2011 23:21
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If anything, it'd probably be a Cherokee. I really like Wranglers, but that's probably a second car type deal in the future for me. Is there a certain Grand Cherokee I should be looking for when looking at dealerships?
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Mar 9, 2011 23:36
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DarkestLite posted:Is there a certain Grand Cherokee I should be looking for when looking at dealerships? If you want fully-functional 4WD, look at the two (4.7/5.7) V8 4x4 models in '05–'10. Except for a very few well-optioned '05s and '06s, none of the 3.7L V6 4x4 models have low range. The 3.7s without low range will hold their own up until you really throw them into the poo poo, but depending on your needs it's something to look out for. mod sassinator posted:That said I wouldn't throw used cars out the door yet--you can get certified preowned ones with a warranty. And if you want a newer used vehicle but can't find a CPO you like, Chrysler will let you tack a service contract onto anything under 4 years/48,000 miles. No inspection, no runaround, no restrictions on where the vehicle was bought. Give them the cash for the plan you want and you're covered.
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Mar 10, 2011 03:13
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Rhyno posted:So my erratic oil pressure problem has returned. At start up it's normal but it maxes out when I hit the gas and doesn't normalize until the engine's been running for 20 minutes. Probably the oil pressure sending unit. They're notorious for going bad, and the oil gauge is just accurate enough to tell you if it's working or not anyway. Mine just started acting all weird, showing about half to a quarter the normal pressure. So under load it's at about 20 and when idling it pegs on the low side and sets off the CHECK GAUGES light. It's about a $25-$45 part depending on where you go and if it's OEM or not. Finally decided I'm going to do a bit of building so that I can go out and play this spring/summer. Ordered a 3" Old Man Emu kit, Iron Rock double shear track bar, JKS discos, Brown Dog motor mounts (I can see daylight in the factory ones), Hella H4 headlamps, AJ's front and rear bumpers and a Warn 9.5ti winch. Sadly, AJ is backed up quite a bit so it'll probably be a while before I can even mount the drat thing. In a few weeks I'll have enough to order a SYE/CV from Tom Woods and get TnT's Y-link long arm/skid upgrade kit. 
Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Mar 11, 2011 |
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Mar 11, 2011 00:25
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Philip J Fry posted:Probably the oil pressure sending unit. They're notorious for going bad, and the oil gauge is just accurate enough to tell you if it's working or not anyway. Mine just started acting all weird, showing about half to a quarter the normal pressure. So under load it's at about 20 and when idling it pegs on the low side and sets off the CHECK GAUGES light. It's about a $25-$45 part depending on where you go and if it's OEM or not. What jeep are you building up? Actually, saw it on the page before, nevermind. Steel blue really is the best color. I had a steel blue 97 that i got rid of. Should have just kept it since i came back to the cherokee anyway.
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Mar 11, 2011 00:52
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They really are great little rigs. Light, roomy, durable, capable and dirt cheap since they've been out of production now for 10 years. Coils in the front and leafs in the back is absolutely perfect for weekend warrioring, which is pretty much what I'll be doing. It's a shame Daimler phased them out for the goddamned Liberty (no offense to the Liberty or its owners). Sure my YJ was a blast in the summer but looking back, I really loathed it in the fall, winter and early spring. If I ever get a SWB/Wrangler again, it'll be a trailer queen.
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Mar 11, 2011 01:11
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Philip J Fry posted:They really are great little rigs. Light, roomy, durable, capable and dirt cheap since they've been out of production now for 10 years. Coils in the front and leafs in the back is absolutely perfect for weekend warrioring, which is pretty much what I'll be doing. It's a shame Daimler phased them out for the goddamned Liberty (no offense to the Liberty or its owners). Sure my YJ was a blast in the summer but looking back, I really loathed it in the fall, winter and early spring. If I ever get a SWB/Wrangler again, it'll be a trailer queen. What did your OME kit run you, they seem to be really expensive for what you get. I dont even think they come with LCA's do they?
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Mar 11, 2011 01:30
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$859 with the NitroCharger shocks, t-case drop and JKS Gen II discos included. I originally wanted a Rubicon Express 3.5" kit but since they went into 'reorganizing' I tried to piece together a quality kit myself. All of the other mfg's want to include their generic arms, track bars, discos, etc and I ultimately plan on hybridizing the entire lift anyway so that I can retain as many parts as possible when I move up to 6" for 35's. When I'm ready for that, the only things I'll have to upgrade are the springs and shocks. Buying a full kit from another mfg would just leave me with parts that won't work on a taller lift, so I figured I'd just spend a little extra on a cush OME kit. I've never used their stuff but they've had a solid reputation forever. No arms included, so I'll be using the stock ones for a little bit until I get the TnT skid w/Y-link. I drive very infrequently right now so it's not a big deal; I should be rocking the long arms by the end of April at the latest. Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Mar 11, 2011 |
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Mar 11, 2011 01:43
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Philip J Fry posted:$859 with the NitroCharger shocks, t-case drop and JKS Gen II discos included. I originally wanted a Rubicon Express 3.5" kit but since they went into 'reorganizing' I tried to piece together a quality kit myself. All of the other mfg's want to include their arms, track bars, discos, etc and I ultimately plan on hybridizing the entire lift anyway so that I can retain as many parts as possible when I move up to 6" for 35's. When I'm ready for that, the only things I'll have to upgrade are the springs and shocks. Buying a full kit from another mfg would just leave me with parts that won't work on a taller lift, so I figured I'd just spend a little extra on a cush OME kit. I've never used their stuff but they've had a solid reputation forever. Alot of people say the kit rides really nice. I'll be saving up for one of their kits i guess, i was just gonna go with rough country but i might as well spend 300.00 more on a kit everyone says is worth it. Or atleast run a set of their rear springs with someone elses front coils.
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Mar 11, 2011 01:48
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Yeah, that seems to be the consensus with most long arm lifts anyway. Pick out your own american-made coils and leafs as most of the kits are using cheaper/Chinese stuff. Especially for something that's daily-driven that you want to retain near stock handling and ride in. Top quality coils are still fairly cheap compared to a set of full leafs, so I'd opt for splurging on the front end and using an S-10 or Dakota bastard pack in the rear if you want to save a few bucks. It's not like I have a ton of disposable income, but I'm willing to put extra coin toward top-line stuff for the quality, performance and warranty. I'm a big proponent of doing stuff right the first time with a dash of overkill, but that's still subjective. I really want to do a 4.56 or 4.88 regear (with a Ford 8.8) before making the jump to 33's or 35's, so that may be a while. I'm sure the OME kit will last until then.
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Mar 11, 2011 02:14
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Philip J Fry posted:Sure my YJ was a blast in the summer but looking back, I really loathed it in the fall, winter and early spring. This is why I wistfully hope for temperatures above 50 degrees just about every day. Especially now that my DD is starting to poo poo the bed.
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Mar 11, 2011 02:53
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Shubs posted:Is anyone in the DFW area willing to help me install tube fenders? I'll pay $100 I'm down. I'm up in Mckinney. My jeep has xrc tubes.
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Mar 11, 2011 22:26
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DarkestLite posted:So, I'm a little babby 22 year old college student getting his first car. I've always wanted a jeep and have been looking around, but the parents are -really- intent on my getting a brand new car (They've both had abysmal history with used in the past)and they are going to help out with the down payment if I do so. I've been looking for a good deal since while I have two decent jobs, I'm still only making $13 an hour and can't afford to go and pay a ton Updating this. I -really- want a wrangler now but I do have some questions. 1. Is there any specific year worth looking for? I was considering financing a new 2011 but thinking I might go a bit older. 2. How worried should I be about leaking with a soft top? Same question about theft. Can't someone just knife a soft top open and jump in? 3. Kinda same question about a hard top. Are they prone to leaking? Also, if the jeep I get comes with a soft top, how hard would it be to find a hard top? Thanks guys. This is my first car so I'm trying to find out all I can about it.
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Mar 12, 2011 18:32
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DarkestLite posted:Updating this. I -really- want a wrangler now but I do have some questions. I would say that you're most likely to find financing on a JK Wrangler (2007-2011), but given the steady resale value of recent TJs ('98-2006) you could probably secure financing on a good example, but a TJ still on warranty is probably out of the question by now. The JK is a far nicer daily driver than the TJ and likely to have much fewer small problems, at least given the overall age of the vehicles now. Honestly, I wouldn't recommend owning a Wrangler of any type unless you have at least a small amount of mechanical ability and tools. At the very least you will need them to handle changing tops around. quote:2. How worried should I be about leaking with a soft top? Same question about theft. Can't someone just knife a soft top open and jump in? 2007 JKs had some leaking issues here and there with both tops, and it seemed to be hit or miss. My TJ factory soft top never leaks anywhere at all. I find that the hard top takes a week or two of adjustment before I have it just right so that it doesn't leak somewhere, then it stays there for the next six months through winter, so no issue. I have no idea about the JK hard top. I would never suggest getting only a soft top if you live anywhere with a real winter. I know some people don't care about it, but personally I loving hate dealing with zippers and poo poo in the wintertime. The utility of the hard top is very nice and handy to get in and out of the rear of the vehicle if you're like me and stuff a ton of poo poo in the back frequently.. Oh Bay Area, you're fine. Yes, anyone can just slice into the top and take your stuff - that's just one of the tradeoffs you'll have to make driving a convertible. Just don't leave your crap in it. There are also several third-party lockable storage containers for the JK that go into the cargo area, secure to the body, and allow you to store your stuff with a reasonable expectation of it still being there when you get back. I actually just bought a really thick plastic lockable tub and drilled the bottom of it so that I can bolt it to the rear seat bracket supports (I don't use the seat), I use this in the summer time and I've never lost anything. quote:3. Kinda same question about a hard top. Are they prone to leaking? Also, if the jeep I get comes with a soft top, how hard would it be to find a hard top? Again, 2007 JKs had some top leak issues. I don't know about JKs, but with TJs a lot of the Jeeps that came with a factory soft top only had no wiring for the hard top, so adding a hard top would require you to add the wiring and plumbing for stuff like the rear window wiper and washer to work. It's not necessary to just have the top on the vehicle. incredibull fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Mar 12, 2011 |
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Mar 12, 2011 19:13
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Thanks for that. Yeah, I'm probably worrying more about leaking than i should seeing as I'm in California, but, I just wanted to be safe, especially since we don't have a garage for me to put it in during the winter. I don't have much mechanical ability but my uncle is a mechanic and will be able to help me with most anything I need and I'm a really fast learner so it shouldn't take horribly long for me to grasp things. My dad has a ton of tools so that shouldn't be a huge issue. I know a Wrangler isn't ideal for a first time car owner, but I'm pretty set on a Jeep and a Wrangler seems like a lot of fun and I believe I should be able to learn a lot about cars with it thanks to the generous help from my family. Any other tips or stuff I should look in to when purchasing? Are prices likely to go down at all around july/august when I should be able to purchase? Thanks again, goons. I trust you all more than anyone else~
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Mar 12, 2011 20:51
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Best time to buy a Wrangler is in the wintertime when someone who bought it in the summertime like most Wrangler owners do realize that they hate it. If you're buying new, probably doesn't matter, and you'll probably find better sales in the summertime, but I'm not an expert at dealer sales so this is probably false. Just remember, Wranglers drive and ride very differently from most other cars and even most other 4x4 trucks. Don't buy one until you've spent more than a 15-minute test drive in one. Maybe rent one for a day or two. I just say this because it's probably the biggest cause of turnaround on the Wrangler; people buy one not realizing how jarring the ride can be, especially on the short wheelbase Wrangler (2-door JK). I've driven short wheelbase 4x4s since I got my license, so I couldn't care less, but if I came from driving a Honda all those years, I would hate it. incredibull fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Mar 12, 2011 |
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Mar 12, 2011 21:25
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incredibull posted:Best time to buy a Wrangler is in the wintertime when someone who bought it in the summertime like most Wrangler owners do realize that they hate it.
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Mar 12, 2011 21:49
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This will be my first time changing the spark plugs on my 2001 XJ. I went in to get them and the wires, and the parts guy says Jeep changed the system on that model year to a coil rail. He said there's one for each plug, but at $9 each plus the plugs it's nearly $100! Tell me this guy is full of poo poo. It looks like one piece to me but I haven't looked inside yet.
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Mar 13, 2011 04:12
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00's and 01's are coil on plug. And the 4.0 runs best on basic Champion plug, part #4412 ($2-$3 per plug usually). No idea how long those coils last though, I've always had distributor systems.
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Mar 13, 2011 05:16
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I don't know why you would replace the coil pack unless it failed, and it's not something that I've really heard of anyone having an issue with. Follow Fry, the 4.0 with coil pack likes standard plugs best, weird things can happen with platinum plugs.
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Mar 13, 2011 18:17
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incredibull posted:Just remember, Wranglers drive and ride very differently from most other cars and even most other 4x4 trucks. Don't buy one until you've spent more than a 15-minute test drive in one. Maybe rent one for a day or two. I hadn't driven any wranglers before I got mine and after about a month of driving it, I fell in love with it. It's also amazing when you're trying to find a parking spot in Portland, Maine. I don't know how many times I've squeezed my YJ in where my wagon would never fit.
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Mar 14, 2011 20:29
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commissargribb posted:I hadn't driven any wranglers before I got mine and after about a month of driving it, I fell in love with it. *high fives Maine buddy* Parking my Cherokee in down town is way easy compared to some of the other things I've drivin' around there.
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Mar 14, 2011 22:49
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Slow is Fast posted:*high fives Maine buddy* Parking my Cherokee in down town is way easy compared to some of the other things I've drivin' around there. I love it in the winter when there's almost always that one parking spot on the end that has too much snow ice/is poorly cleared so that nobody parks there. It's like they reserve spots for 4WD vehicles 
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Mar 15, 2011 03:28
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Philip J Fry posted:00's and 01's are coil on plug. And the 4.0 runs best on basic Champion plug, part #4412 ($2-$3 per plug usually). No idea how long those coils last though, I've always had distributor systems.
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Mar 15, 2011 08:38
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commissargribb posted:I love it in the winter when there's almost always that one parking spot on the end that has too much snow ice/is poorly cleared so that nobody parks there. It's like they reserve spots for 4WD vehicles I actively look for, and park on, snow drifts in my XJ. It owns.
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Mar 15, 2011 12:54
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incredibull posted:Just remember, Wranglers drive and ride very differently from most other cars and even most other 4x4 trucks. Don't buy one until you've spent more than a 15-minute test drive in one. Maybe rent one for a day or two. The only two cars I really have any experience in are a Ford Explorer and a Prius. I believe that my lack of driving experience will make it so it shouldn't be too hard to get used to the Wrangler. That being said, I'll try and find somewhere to rent one for a day and see how I feel.
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Mar 15, 2011 13:51
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Hey fellow Jeep goons. Doing an oil change in my XJ this week. The first one since I bought it. Whats the favorite oil people like to run.
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Mar 15, 2011 21:26
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Slow is Fast posted:Hey fellow Jeep goons. I use 10W-30 of whatever name brand happens to be on sale. I use 5 quarts of oil and 1 quart of that Lucas oil stabilizer stuff. Not sure if that Lucas stuff does anything preventative but it helped quiet down my valve ticking.
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Mar 15, 2011 22:08
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10W/30 Mobil 1 synthetic, but I finally found an Amsoil dealer nearby.
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Mar 15, 2011 23:30
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ornery owl posted:I use 10W-30 of whatever name brand happens to be on sale. I use 5 quarts of oil and 1 quart of that Lucas oil stabilizer stuff. Not sure if that Lucas stuff does anything preventative but it helped quiet down my valve ticking. Lucas oil stabilizer is snake oil at best, and makes your oil foamy (and thinner due to small air bubbles!) most likely.
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Mar 15, 2011 23:33
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EightBit posted:Lucas oil stabilizer is snake oil at best, and makes your oil foamy (and thinner due to small air bubbles!) most likely. I thought that was at like stupid high rpms. I say since the 4.0 runs on black magic and voodoo anyway that Lucas should be a perfect match, that or Marvel Mystery Oil.
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Mar 16, 2011 02:11
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Whenever a parts store is running one of those gallon of GTX and a filter for $18 specials I will grab it for the next time I need an oil change. I run 10-40 because my truck runs hot as gently caress and is slightly prone to fuel contamination.
tonedef131 fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Mar 16, 2011 |
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Mar 16, 2011 03:39
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EightBit posted:Lucas oil stabilizer is snake oil at best, and makes your oil foamy (and thinner due to small air bubbles!) most likely. I dunno what to tell you but I can totally notice the difference, and use Lucas every time. It was crazy how much better my old GMC Jimmy ran with it too. Much better compression and I've never gotten "foamy oil". The oil generally lasts longer before getting funky, though I still change 5000km religiously. I also use Fram Toughguard filters along with 10W30 Valvoline MaxLife and like it better than any of the other high-mileage oils; doesn't appear to break down as much as others. (yes I know I'm probably paying far too much at each oil change than I need to) Though my 4.0L XJ is only at 350,000 km so YMMV.
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Mar 16, 2011 03:55
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Turned my 94 XJ on, backed out the driveway and it stalled and wouldnt turn on again. All i can hear is the starter. I was going to use the on off key method to pull a code, but it wont work. ON, then OFF, then ON, then OFF, then ON. The check engine light stays solid and nothing flashes. In the morning Ill check all the usual suspects (coil etc...). Any chance it could be the CPS because that's what im thinking. Im hoping its not the ECM. Also, im broke and cant afford to take it to a shop, but I can afford a code reader. So I guess my real question is do i need OBD-II or OBD-I reader?
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Mar 16, 2011 08:32
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Fun new Jeep thing: It's an automatic, and when in reverse you have to apply slight pressure forward on the shifter for the back-up lights to stay on. Is there any simple thing that can be done to fix that? Something needs tightened maybe? It has no issues staying in reverse, it just won't stay lit.
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Mar 16, 2011 10:36
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Faerunner posted:Fun new Jeep thing: It's an automatic, and when in reverse you have to apply slight pressure forward on the shifter for the back-up lights to stay on. Console or steering wheel shift select lever?
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Mar 16, 2011 16:22
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Console. It's a 2000 Cherokee (Were there even ones with steering wheel shift selectors? I've been in ones as early as 1990 and they've all had console shifters)
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Mar 16, 2011 16:25
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