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SRM posted:Black primer fo lyfe 
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Mar 14, 2011 23:00
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Sole.Sushi posted:I'm about to start warmachining soon, so when I post something you can ? me ITT and determine everything I say is bullshit, but... If you prime white, at the end of the day, you have to include shadows, anyway, or suck poo poo in hell, forever. Those shadows will be incomplete if you thoroughly prime and then try to avoid spoiling the lighter flat surfaces. You can wash, but washing automatically mar some part of the flat surfaces anyway. Also, you're definitely going to be building up from a dark, no matter what. So the real issue is, would you rather have the darkest recesses at *most* be only *as* dark as the amount of wash you can get in there without piling on what amounts to sedimentary layers in the crevices? White is basically only useful for something that should have an inner glow. For example, if you want a carnifex mouth that looks like he has bioplasma breath, priming black from the back and bottom, and then carefully squirting him in the mouth with white (  ) will give you a good lighting basis for the glow you're trying to go for, and if it's a ghost, then obviously, prime white to have a shortcut. Otherwise your workflow ends up being:prime white wash dark for shadows darken light spots for sake of building up the base color, making sure you hit crevices, then build up vs prime black build up Unless it's a speed thing on a light color scheme in which case. Just Tadgh  it.
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Mar 14, 2011 23:08
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SkunkDuster posted:I've used Microscale's "Micro-Mask" as a paint on mask. It is water based and the instructions say not to use it with water based paints, but I didn't have any problems airbrushing water based paint on it. Blu-Tack also works pretty well for masking. Thanks for this. I'll give them both a check as soon as I can.
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Mar 14, 2011 23:13
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You dont have to build up with white primer, you can build down. It also creates much more luminous effects without having to build up layers of thick opaque paints on top of each other. There is no right answer to the primer question, its a matter of preference.
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Mar 14, 2011 23:19
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Unless it's a speed thing on a light color scheme in which case. Just Tadgh This specifically is why I was hunting for gray. Gray works for what I'm doing, which is aluminum basecoat + layers of wash + some solid colors that I go back and basecoat with black paint anyways. So yeah, your technique (which I've used with other schemes to great success) is certainly worth mentioning, but since I'm washing the models anyways, it's not gonna help me. 
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Mar 14, 2011 23:37
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I end up washing areas when I prime black, anyway. Then again, to save time, I just blast the model with the basecoat from my airbrush. My red Tau definitely are easier to get the red just right with white primer, but my Salamanders would probably be a little different and maybe not quite right if I primed them white. That's just speculation, I suppose.
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Mar 14, 2011 23:56
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Nah, you're correct. Your primer affects your colors in the end, especially if your paint is translucent enough. Sometimes black is better, sometimes To sum it up: primer blows, and if we could do without it, we all would right now without a second thought.
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Mar 15, 2011 00:03
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Sole.Sushi posted:Nah, you're correct. Your primer affects your colors in the end, especially if your paint is translucent enough. Sometimes black is better, sometimes I really like Tamiya white primer. poo poo goes on smooth and thin every time, even if it is expensive as gently caress.
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Mar 15, 2011 00:14
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Manifest posted:I really like Tamiya white primer. poo poo goes on smooth and thin every time, even if it is expensive as gently caress. Word. I've switched to Krylon flat white, though, because of the expense and how the only shop in town that carries it is staffed by bellends. But I do like Tamiya white. It's like butter.
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Mar 15, 2011 00:25
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Sole.Sushi, the Talon stuff seems to airbrush just fine onto bare plastic. I think you're just conservative 
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Mar 15, 2011 00:50
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A different sort of miniature project: Two of my very good friends married each other this weekend. Since they're both huge gaming nerds and already had most of what they needed in life, a bunch of us pooled our wedding gift money together to buy them an Emissary gaming table from Geek Chic (something they've both been wanting for some time now.) The original plan had been to give them a nice card with instruction on how to give their custom specifications to the carpenters. Somebody said, "Hey, doesn't Tadhg do cool little miniature things? Could we get him to build a little model of a gaming table to give them along with the card?" The answer, of course, was yes. If the question hadn't come at the absolutely last loving minute before the wedding day, it would have been even more awesome. It turns out that, alongside the tiny plastic and pewter murder mans I purchase, my hobby store also sells dollhouses and furniture. I picked up a table in 1/12 scale and some plasticard and went to work. The result:  The battlemat, GM screen, character sheets, and books are true to the 1/12 scale of the table. I had intended to try sculpting some tiny dice from green stuff or sprue bits, but didn't have enough time. In the end I used some dice from Wizkids' "Pirates of the Spanish Main" game from a few years ago. The battlemat is a piece of textured plasticard. Primed with gesso, painted with Dheneb Stone, and carefully washed with Sepia.  The covers and character sheets I printed out on glossy paper at Kinko's and glued to assorted thicknesses of plasticard. Had I been given more time, I would have liked to make an open book or two with the actual book text in them. Trying to get a bent/curved open book was a little to tricky for the few hours I had to work in, sadly. In that same vein, it was impossible for me to find appropriate images to stick on the GM side of the screen, so it had to be left blank. Some tiny miniatures on the battlemat would have also been nice, but everything of the right size was mail-order only (and, again, no time...)  Here's a zoomed out shot for better scale (with unpainted Oath tanks in the background.) The box is what the table + cards were given in.  Even with the rush job and lack of additional cool features, I think it turned out pretty neat. 1/12 scale was a lot of fun, too. If I ever have a daughter, I'll probably use dollhouse miniature making as a way to bond with her. 
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Mar 15, 2011 01:28
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Thats really cute, but the dice are massive compared to the overall scale.
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Mar 15, 2011 01:41
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Miles O'Brian posted:Thats really cute, but the dice are massive compared to the overall scale. Aren't they just? I had ideas on sculpting some shapes close to polyhedrons with kneadatite and then finishing them off with a file, but had absolutely no time to even attempt it. From a non-macro perspective, the Wizkids dice don't look *too* bad. They're still wildly out of scale, though.
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Mar 15, 2011 01:54
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You people don't use dice the size of your fists?
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Mar 15, 2011 02:08
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Tadhg posted:A different sort of miniature project: I think I love you.
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Mar 15, 2011 02:10
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Made another four escorts today. The bottom left one is my new favorite, its awesome. The bottom right one is rather un-orky in my opinion and may be placed aside as some random Xenos ship. Still, up to 2 Kroozas and 11 Escorts. What I'm REALLY wondering about now is how I'm going to do the 15-20 Fighta Bomma groups I'll need. Even if I just build a single bomma per 20mm base thats still a very small craft that I need quite a few of. The only idea I have right now is whittling chunks of sprue or snipped bits of pole and sticking tiny plasticard wings on. Any suggestions?
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Mar 15, 2011 02:49
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Galaga Galaxian posted:Made another four escorts today. The bottom left one is my new favorite, its awesome. The bottom right one is rather un-orky in my opinion and may be placed aside as some random Xenos ship. Still, up to 2 Kroozas and 11 Escorts. Cut little jaws and put them on missile launcher missiles or torpedoes. And the one on the lower right will look plenty orky if you paint an orkface on the smooth part and maybe carve some gouges in it.
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Mar 15, 2011 02:52
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Galaga Galaxian posted:Made another four escorts today. The bottom left one is my new favorite, its awesome. The bottom right one is rather un-orky in my opinion and may be placed aside as some random Xenos ship. Still, up to 2 Kroozas and 11 Escorts. You continue to make me So Goddamn Jealous. I'm going to have to start raiding my bitz box soon - I have a ridiculous amount of poo poo I could easily turn into this kind of thing.
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Mar 15, 2011 03:14
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So I've got some models that I basecoated, but am getting back around to doing some detail and probably another layer of basecoat on, but they've got dust and flecks on them, what's the best way to clean it? I know the paint is water based, but could I just run it under some water real fast and then let dry?
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Mar 15, 2011 03:44
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Prefect Six posted:So I've got some models that I basecoated, but am getting back around to doing some detail and probably another layer of basecoat on, but they've got dust and flecks on them, what's the best way to clean it? I know the paint is water based, but could I just run it under some water real fast and then let dry? You can just brush it off. Think archaeologist cleaning up a find. I've been using a 1" utility paint brush to clean off some of my minis that have 10 years worth of dust on them, works like a charm.
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Mar 15, 2011 03:59
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Someone post an image of Grissam dusting something for prints, but with a miniature photoshopped in its place.
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Mar 15, 2011 04:19
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Prefect Six posted:So I've got some models that I basecoated, but am getting back around to doing some detail and probably another layer of basecoat on, but they've got dust and flecks on them, what's the best way to clean it? I know the paint is water based, but could I just run it under some water real fast and then let dry? I have three cats, and so no place in my apartment is safe from their hair. I keep a can of compressed air near my painting area to blast minis that have collected hair/dust before I paint them.
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Mar 15, 2011 04:49
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Phyresis posted:Sole.Sushi, the Talon stuff seems to airbrush just fine onto bare plastic. I think you're just conservative I always suspected that you didn't need to, but they said "you might have to" so I went with that. 
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Mar 15, 2011 05:11
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Tadhg posted:I have three cats, and so no place in my apartment is safe from their hair. I keep a can of compressed air near my painting area to blast minis that have collected hair/dust before I paint them. Same problem, same solution. It's the best.
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Mar 15, 2011 05:40
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Miles O'Brian posted:Someone post an image of Grissam dusting something for prints, but with a miniature photoshopped in its place. they actually ran a whole story/plot line based on the miniature killer, who left immaculate miniatures of the dead people and their surroundings
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Mar 15, 2011 09:38
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Tadhg posted:I have three cats, and so no place in my apartment is safe from their hair. I keep a can of compressed air near my painting area to blast minis that have collected hair/dust before I paint them. Prevention is always better than cleaning. Try keeping your stuff in shoe boxes or something so that the dust and hair can't get on the minis in the first place. This applies to bare plastic, primed, half painted and finished minis. I always cringe a little when I see a bunch of minis on a shelf and not a glass fronted case. The dust, the dust...(read as Kurtz "the horror, the horror..." line from Apocalypse Now)
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Mar 15, 2011 12:28
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you had to post that after i finished setting up all my trollblood looking nice on top of my desk's shelf didn't you?
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Mar 15, 2011 12:41
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Hey gents, I've been ordering some extra parts to customise up and theme my Guardsmen and have noticed the parts I've received are metal opposed to plastic, does anyone recommend any particular glue for attaching them together or to just use the GW metal (super?)glue? I'm a bit unsure on assembling metal models as I'm slightly (read: incredibly) out of practice when it comes to miniature modelling.
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Mar 15, 2011 13:57
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Also, if your painting stuff has been out long enough to get dusty, clean off your palettes or you will keep getting tiny bits of dust fluff in your paint, hanging off the end of the nice point on your fancy brush, thus rendering your huge investments in dead weasel hair worthless.
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Mar 15, 2011 14:02
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Tadhg posted:A different sort of miniature project: Dude. PLEASE go into more detail on how you made the books and stuff. I totally want to do this for my best friend's wedding.
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Mar 15, 2011 14:40
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Flipswitch posted:Hey gents, I've been ordering some extra parts to customise up and theme my Guardsmen and have noticed the parts I've received are metal opposed to plastic, does anyone recommend any particular glue for attaching them together or to just use the GW metal (super?)glue? I'm a bit unsure on assembling metal models as I'm slightly (read: incredibly) out of practice when it comes to miniature modelling. Superglue is fine for holding metal to plastic. If you are worried, you can also put a little piece of greenstuff in the join to help attach it. Worst case scenario would be actually pinning it. One thing to watch out for when adding metal pieces to a plastic miniature is balance - if you add a metal weapon into an upraised arm, the heavier part can make the whole thing wobbly or just tip it over. Keep this in mind when posing, and weight the base if you need to.
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Mar 15, 2011 14:43
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Flipswitch posted:does anyone recommend any particular glue for attaching them together or to just use the GW metal (super?)glue? I believe super glue is the standard for metal models. It can be the GW brand or other gaming brand like GaleForce 9, or maybe just the dollar store brand if you are careful. This is the brand my brother and I use which you can find at places like Hobbytown USA(yellow bottles) http://www.greatplanes.com/accys/gpmr6001.html I use super glue for plastics too 
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Mar 15, 2011 15:03
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will blow your mind.
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Crossposting from the Oath thread   Really happy with the freehand. Pics are just from my phone so please excuse the quality
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Mar 15, 2011 16:06
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I dig the hell out of that giant. The transitions on the flesh have a real painterly quality, instead of being super-smooth blends. It's like a watercolour or something.
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Mar 15, 2011 16:13
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Thanks! I used a lot of thing washes and thin 'juices' when layering to build up the colour.
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Mar 15, 2011 16:25
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Those cuts are seriously grossing me out. 
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Mar 15, 2011 17:15
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Big Willy Style posted:Crossposting from the Oath thread Nice! How'd you do the snow?
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Mar 15, 2011 18:49
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WhiteOutMouse posted:I believe super glue is the standard for metal models. It can be the GW brand or other gaming brand like GaleForce 9, or maybe just the dollar store brand if you are careful. Ah cheers buddy, I'll check about the hobbystores to avoid paying out of my anus for GW poo poo. Ashcans posted:Superglue is fine for holding metal to plastic. If you are worried, you can also put a little piece of greenstuff in the join to help attach it. Worst case scenario would be actually pinning it. 
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Mar 15, 2011 19:11
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I built a razorback today Mark I Rhino refitted with modern parts after being damaged in combat.  The lascannon and plasma guns are attached to a piece of tau landing gear by brass tube which is then attached to the rhino, allowing both the guns and the whole turret to swivel, and I can switch out the weapons. EDIT: Turret detail 
The Blue Pyramid fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Mar 15, 2011 |
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Mar 15, 2011 19:19
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The Blue Pyramid posted:I built a razorback today That conversion is pretty tight. Instead of GS I would have used milliput because you can sand it smooth, you could probably still go over with it if you wished to. Not a bad job mate. The turret sits a little too high for my liking as well. Big Willy Style fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Mar 15, 2011 |
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Mar 15, 2011 19:51
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