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Endless Mike posted:How much meat can I get off the big boar? I considered fixing that but felt it was better left alone.
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Mar 11, 2011 19:59
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| # ? May 11, 2024 20:46 |
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojL2Pg9p3wk&feature=player_embedded lol passing the sport bike on the outside
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Mar 11, 2011 21:27
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This deserves many reposts http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzHSteEhnoE
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Mar 11, 2011 23:13
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BlackMK4 posted:This deserves many reposts I think you got the wrong thread.
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Mar 11, 2011 23:33
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poo poo, you're right.
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Mar 12, 2011 00:02
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After a lot of debate I went and picked up the '05 CRF450R motard today. Changed all the fluids, get to change the oil again tomorrow because I reused a crush washer and its leaking. Then I messed around with tires for way too long. Finally got around to firing up the bike and it started right up then promptly shut it off when I noticed the header pipe glowing and called it a night. Turns out that is completely normal...yes the header is supposed to glow, thats how you know it is warmed up and ready to go. I'll take it for a spin tomorrow after I replace those crush washers. Have a feeling it should scare the poo poo out of me pretty good.
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Mar 13, 2011 05:19
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The glowing headers thing sounds p rad. You should throw up some pictures because crf450s make the best tards.
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Mar 13, 2011 06:00
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NitroSpazzz posted:After a lot of debate I went and picked up the '05 CRF450R motard today. Changed all the fluids, get to change the oil again tomorrow because I reused a crush washer and its leaking. Then I messed around with tires for way too long. Finally got around to firing up the bike and it started right up then promptly shut it off when I noticed the header pipe glowing and called it a night. picspicspics My YZ's header glows when it's dark/dusk out. The metal used in the headers is pretty thin, they heat up very quickly. Do remember that bike has an engine that puts out a lot of heat, a small amount of coolant, and no fans.... don't let it sit idling longer than necessary. pics video needed
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Mar 13, 2011 06:59
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I think I'll throw up a couple pics of the CRF and the YSR125 in the post your bike thread. Need to toss the battery on a charger, start draining the oil and head to advance to pick up some crush washers. Really looking forward to riding this thing. Just got back from a test ride of the bike. I rode my roommates poor neglected never ridden SXV450 a month ago so I'm going to compare it to that and my old DRZ. The SXV's power comes on much more abruptly and seems either all or nothing, the CRF just pulls hard everywhere. Suspension and brakes are amazing on the CRF, will lift the rear wheel with one finger on the brake no problem. I was able to keep the front wheel on the ground the whole ride except for one little crest that I gassed it on in third...front came right up. Kick start only is a little inconvenient but for what I'm using this for (gap/track) it isn't bad and kicks over easy despite me being scrawny. I'm not sure what it tops out at but I hit 105 very very quick and it was still pulling. Overall I am impressed. Good smooth power, very capable suspension and brakes. Best part is if I blow it up unlike an Aprilia or Husky I can go to any honda shop or bike bandit and have parts in a week or less. Pics being uploaded now. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Mar 13, 2011 |
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Mar 13, 2011 13:36
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NitroSpazzz posted:I rode my roommates poor neglected never ridden SXV450 a month ago so I'm going to compare it to that and my old DRZ. Your roommate is clearly very depressed and you need to get him help before he kills himself.
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Mar 14, 2011 01:55
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Zool posted:Your roommate is clearly very depressed and you need to get him help before he kills himself.
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Mar 14, 2011 13:41
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NitroSpazzz posted:He bought it in October I think and has put on less than 100 miles. This is insane. Does he have that much cash to throw around that he can waste thousands on something he will have used for a couple hours? I got my motard in October and so far have put 5500 on it, in the winter in the Norheast.
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Mar 15, 2011 17:53
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:This is insane. Does he have that much cash to throw around that he can waste thousands on something he will have used for a couple hours? I got my motard in October and so far have put 5500 on it, in the winter in the Norheast. Thats the best part...he is broke, he is always broke. I guess he got a small inheritance, quit his job, moved to knoxville (following a girl who wants nothing to do with him), bought SXV/TV/PS3/fifty/ysr/etc. Now he is selling everything off, the SXV is the only thing that hasn't sold yet. He is afraid to ride it because he knows if it blows up he is hosed. If he would have actually ridden the thing I would have bought it instead of the CRF.
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Mar 15, 2011 18:49
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NitroSpazzz posted:Thats the best part...he is broke, he is always broke. I guess he got a small inheritance, quit his job, moved to knoxville (following a girl who wants nothing to do with him), bought SXV/TV/PS3/fifty/ysr/etc. Now he is selling everything off, the SXV is the only thing that hasn't sold yet. Sounds like the norm. Come into some money, impulse buy a bike, never ride it and eventually sell it at a loss. Guys like him make the motorcycle world go round for the rest of us. 
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Mar 15, 2011 19:01
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I'm not sure if there is a DRZ curse, but after MrZig and now me I am starting to wonder. My new (to me) '07 SM which I bought from NitroSpazzz just blew up about a block away from my house. I was coming down a hill in second gear, there was a very loud BANG, I pulled the clutch and hit the killswitch, pulled off the road. Oil all over the rear shock/tire/swingarm/etc. The clutch pulls fine, shifter shifts fine thru all gears, if a bit clunky; I haven't started the engine for obvious reasons. The drive shaft is apparently supposed to be threaded on the end, it seems to have sheared off at the very end. The front sprocket was loose. The oil looks like it's coming from the drive shaft behind the front sprocket. I have no idea how so much oil could have come from there so I think I'm missing something. I can't get past the retainer with the two phillips screws, not even my impact driver is making them budge so that's as far as I've gotten in an hour. e/n: this was supposed to be my first not-a-complete-piece-of-poo poo bike, I've put less than 600 miles on it, blah blah, boo hoo. OK so what do I do now?
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Mar 16, 2011 16:19
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Had you adjusted the chain? Generally speaking MX/Sumo bikes need a much looser chain than a street bike. I wonder if too much chain tension caused it to fail.
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Mar 16, 2011 17:27
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Can a kawi klx250sf handle a lot of freeway riding(70-80)? Dealer not too far away is clearing out last year models for 3k. Or am I better off looking at used drzs to handle freeway and be a good first bike.
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Mar 16, 2011 17:35
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I had not adjusted it, but it was fairly loose. Looser than any streetbike I've ever had for sure. I'm basically ready to take it to a shop as my bike is my d.d. and I really don't have time to gently caress about with it. I would like to at least have a fair guess as to what exactly is broken.
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Mar 16, 2011 17:36
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I dunno about a DRZ curse, I was not at all nice to mine and it ran like a champ.
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Mar 16, 2011 17:39
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I wonder if this has something to do w/ the failure: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-625998.html Edit: Any shop is going to want to split the cases and it's going to be expensive to have fixed. FYI.
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Mar 16, 2011 17:45
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Exploding bikes up in here. 
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Mar 16, 2011 18:04
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Synonamess Botch posted:I'm not sure if there is a DRZ curse, but after MrZig and now me I am starting to wonder. My new (to me) '07 SM which I bought from NitroSpazzz just blew up about a block away from my house. I was coming down a hill in second gear, there was a very loud BANG, I pulled the clutch and hit the killswitch, pulled off the road. Oil all over the rear shock/tire/swingarm/etc. The clutch pulls fine, shifter shifts fine thru all gears, if a bit clunky; I haven't started the engine for obvious reasons. The drive shaft is apparently supposed to be threaded on the end, it seems to have sheared off at the very end. The front sprocket was loose. The oil looks like it's coming from the drive shaft behind the front sprocket. I have no idea how so much oil could have come from there so I think I'm missing something. I can't get past the retainer with the two phillips screws, not even my impact driver is making them budge so that's as far as I've gotten in an hour. Do you have a picture of it? It sheered off the end of the output shaft?  The front sprocket is known to work it's way loose and cause that seal to back out and cause the bike to puke oil, but the entire thing shearing off is just crazy. I have a spare complete transmission that I bought as a spare awhile back if you want it. You're going to need to split the cases to replace though. 
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Mar 16, 2011 18:13
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Z3n posted:Do you have a picture of it? It sheered off the end of the output shaft? Not the sprocket part just the threaded part I think. I'll have to check again as I was very hurried the first time. if the sprocket worked its way off and backed the seal it is possiblethats why its puking oil. When I pulled the cover off, the sprocket was off and bound against something behind it I guess the frame. No nut to be found so I think it popped off and got wedged. Even so and if the transmission is ok, I imagine I will still need a new output shaft. How invasive is that? I will take a picture when I get home. There is almost no damage, so I am leaning toward this. Synonamess Botch fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Mar 16, 2011 |
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Mar 16, 2011 18:22
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Synonamess Botch posted:Not the sprocket part just the threaded part I think. I'll have to check again as I was very hurried the first time. if the sprocket worked its way off and backed the seal it is possiblethats why its puking oil. When I pulled the cover off, the sprocket was off and bound against something behind it I guess the frame. No nut to be found so I think it popped off and got wedged. Even so and if the transmission is ok, I imagine I will still need a new output shaft. How invasive is that? I will take a picture when I get home. There is almost no damage, so I am leaning toward this. You might need a new output shaft, it might just need a fresh lock washer and locknut. DRZs are known for doing that, I've had it happen a few times. After the first time (which happened on a test ride, incidentally), I started loctiting the nut and checking it at every oil change. I found it loose once after that. I swapped gearing and wheels so often that I'd be checking it roughly every 1500-2k miles anyways. Those threads are pretty burly, they should be ok. Worst case, if you just want to ride it into the ground and fix it on the cheap, I'd probably take it to a GOOD welder (don't want to fry the bearings) and have them weld a new sprocket to the output shaft. It's totally not the recommended way to do things, but sometimes practicality wins.
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Mar 16, 2011 18:39
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OK, I'm pretty sure I'm going to need a new drive shaft.  What's the process for replacing this thing? Is it going to be above my pay grade? Synonamess Botch fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Mar 16, 2011 |
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Mar 16, 2011 19:57
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Synonamess Botch posted:OK, I'm pretty sure I'm going to need a new drive shaft. Remove top end, split engine cases, remove old transmission, install new transmission, put cases back together, reinstall top end. Fresh gaskets all around are a good idea. I'd probably try and find a spare engine and rebuild that one at my leisure.
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Mar 16, 2011 20:36
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Hrm. Tell me more about welding.
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Mar 16, 2011 20:41
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Synonamess Botch posted:Hrm. Tell me more about welding. You find a good welder who knows what they're doing (because you're welding right next to that bearing and if they heat it too much it'll destroy it, causing you to need to split the cases to replace it). You buy a new front sprocket, put it on there, and then they weld the sprocket to the output shaft. I can't speak to if it'd be a good idea on this bike or not, as it depends on the metals you're welding, which is why you need a good welder. I have one out in Merced who I trust because he will tell me if something's not repairable, and has the experience that is needed for doing things like this. He's been building drag frames and bike frames for decades though. This bike has a built engine, right? I'd probably try and find a good bottom end and swap your top end onto it. I have an engine in pieces if you wanted to rebuild, but it has a lot of miles on it (40k).
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Mar 16, 2011 20:47
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I checked with a local shop just for shits and after a nice conversation he gave me a ballpark figure of $500 just for labor. How reasonable does that sound? I'd do it myself if it were a project bike, or a second bike. But as my D.D. my hands are tied. Also I've looked at parts already and going brand new (shaft, sprocket, gaskets) from bikebandit I'm looking at $300 plus. I am so ready for today to be over.
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Mar 16, 2011 21:52
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Let me dig through my stuff when I get home and I'll see if I still have that transmission, I'm 90% sure I know exactly where it is. I was planning on doing the 3->5th gear mod with it but parted the DRZs before I got around to it. That should at least save you some cash. 500$ for labor sounds reasonable. Figure roughly 2 horus removing and installing the engine, and 3 hours pulling it apart, checking things, and replacing the tranmission. The sprocket should be fine as is. I think I even have a new nut floating around for the end of it. Send me an e-mail to conand at gmail or a PM and we'll sort things out. I have to ship some other stuff out and could get it out to you tomorrow via priority mail, hopefully getting it to you pretty quick.
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Mar 16, 2011 22:19
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PM sent.
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Mar 16, 2011 23:23
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The weather's been warm in MI lately. Went for a ride on the DRZ and man I love this thing. Doubt I'll ever sell it. Hoping to do some light mods this weekend: TT case savers, Bronz catch can, orange rim tape. After that, just ride the hell out of it all year. Also picked up an Acerbis back protector for daily use!
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Mar 18, 2011 22:36
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I got it like And then I was like  And now I'm all 
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Mar 22, 2011 03:47
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I'm thinking about putting my DRZ to full-on dirt/trail duty and buying something with a bit more oomph for the street. I want something relatively reliable and streetable, and just want to be sure I'm looking at the right bikes. The Husky 450 and 510 are race-bred, right? Therefore have higher maintenance / peakier performance? So I should be looking for the 610 and 630, right? I don't really want a KTM, all that orange makes me nauseous. How much difference in power am I going to see with the 610? The DRZ is pretty much bone stock other than 3x3 mod and an FMF pipe/header the previous owner slapped on. I have these visions of myself jumping on a Husky and instantly looping out. Symphoric fucked around with this message at 09:33 on Mar 22, 2011 |
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Mar 22, 2011 09:29
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I made the same transition and you won't instantly loop it. The extra power is nice and the front pulls up without the clutch pretty easy. The biggest difference for me was having to shift with two fingers. On the DRZ at WOT, I didn't really have to hold onto the bars. The 6 speed transmission is awesome though. The 630 is supposed to be really nice. However, like someone else here said about their husky, everytime I take it out I worry about the engine blowing due to the cam chain or some other random problem.
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Mar 22, 2011 17:56
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Empire Waffles posted:The 630 is supposed to be really nice. However, like someone else here said about their husky, everytime I take it out I worry about the engine blowing due to the cam chain or some other random problem. Zool has a completely different husky, the 450 racebike. Your 610 should be pretty reliable as long as you keep a tab on the cam chain wear.
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Mar 22, 2011 18:33
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Z3n posted:Zool has a completely different husky, the 450 racebike. Your 610 should be pretty reliable as long as you keep a tab on the cam chain wear. What happened to your DRZ?
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Mar 22, 2011 19:32
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Spiffness posted:What happened to your DRZ? My DRZ never had a problem what are you talking about.
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Mar 22, 2011 19:34
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Empire Waffles posted:I made the same transition and you won't instantly loop it. Is there a big difference in seat height between the two? I've never actually seen a 610/630 with my own eyes but they look enormously tall in pictures.
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Mar 22, 2011 21:31
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Comedy option Ape sxv 550. Oh wait you said reliable.
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Mar 22, 2011 23:59
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