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Faerunner posted:Console. It's a 2000 Cherokee (Were there even ones with steering wheel shift selectors? I've been in ones as early as 1990 and they've all had console shifters) Pop the console cover off, and you'll find a pair(or 3) of switch modules, one controls "start only in park or neutral" and one for "I'm in reverse, turn on some lights!" Remove it and see if the ball that's pushed in by the selector is hosed up, and while its out push it a few times and see if it feels like its worn out. Easy to replace, way easier than a steering-column mounted one. 
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Mar 16, 2011 16:29
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Frag Viper posted:Turned my 94 XJ on, backed out the driveway and it stalled and wouldnt turn on again. All i can hear is the starter. My guess is crank sensor. I just it on our 95 plow Jeep, so if ya gotta replace it, I know some tips. I'm not sure readers work with OBD1, someone smarter than me might know.
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Mar 16, 2011 17:07
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Faerunner posted:Console. It's a 2000 Cherokee (Were there even ones with steering wheel shift selectors? I've been in ones as early as 1990 and they've all had console shifters) YJs and earlier had steering-mounted automatic shifters. Don't know why the YJ sticked with it when the Cherokee switched over 2 years earlier. We also did miss out on the 4.0 injected engine for a few years as well, so...
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Mar 16, 2011 17:45
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Slow is Fast posted:My guess is crank sensor. I just it on our 95 plow Jeep, so if ya gotta replace it, I know some tips. I know how to do it, I just dont have 9 socket extensions to reach the two bolts. I need to go out and buy an ohmmeter to test the sensor first before i start throwing money at parts. Quick side note, an ohmmeter is also called a multimeter right?
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Mar 16, 2011 20:06
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What was the type code on the long TJ? Is it still just a TJ?
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Mar 16, 2011 22:45
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Scrubed posted:What was the type code on the long TJ? Edit: Oh, yeah, I forgot about the "longer but still two door" they did. I thought they were still just called TJs anyway. InitialDave fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Mar 16, 2011 |
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Mar 16, 2011 23:05
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Scrubed posted:What was the type code on the long TJ? LJ.
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Mar 16, 2011 23:28
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Frag Viper posted:Quick side note, an ohmmeter is also called a multimeter right? The "multi" in "multimeter" refers to the ability to measure resistance (ohms), AC and DC voltage, current, and frequency (Hz). So, yes. ThinkFear posted:LJ. I thought that was unofficial?
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Mar 16, 2011 23:57
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Bucephalus posted:I thought that was unofficial? From what I gathered they just called it a TJ Unlimited 2 door?
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Mar 17, 2011 03:03
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Sponge! posted:Pop the console cover off, and you'll find a pair(or 3) of switch modules, one controls "start only in park or neutral" and one for "I'm in reverse, turn on some lights!" Remove it and see if the ball that's pushed in by the selector is hosed up, and while its out push it a few times and see if it feels like its worn out. Easy to replace, way easier than a steering-column mounted one. My 95 doesn't have these switches, I don't think I've ever seen these switches in an XJ floor shifter. The NSS on the transmission itself takes care of the starter lockout and reverse lights. Unless your talking about a Grand Cherokee, I've never looked at the shifter in one of those. Circled in red. Should just be a simple adjustment, Its not in the most ideal location though. 
Veeb0rg fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Mar 17, 2011 |
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Mar 17, 2011 03:55
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60*F and mostly sunny tomorrow, but the registration sticker for my motorcycle hasn't arrived in the mail yet, so I dropped the top and pulled the doors on the YJ.
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Mar 17, 2011 05:06
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Faerunner posted:Console. It's a 2000 Cherokee (Were there even ones with steering wheel shift selectors? I've been in ones as early as 1990 and they've all had console shifters) Police XJ's were usually column shift.
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Mar 17, 2011 06:56
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Whenever it rains out I get a big puddle on the passenger side floor in my '99 XJ. Pretty sure it is coming down behind the glove box somewhere. Is this common and how do I fix it? EDIT: I think I am looking for some sort of possibly clogged drain tube for the HVAC system according to what I learned by Googling. I have no idea where this is. Would this cause a problem even if I never use the AC? It's winter. owls or something fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Mar 17, 2011 |
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Mar 17, 2011 15:05
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Unlimited. Thanks.
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Mar 17, 2011 16:41
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ornery owl posted:Whenever it rains out I get a big puddle on the passenger side floor in my '99 XJ. Pretty sure it is coming down behind the glove box somewhere. Is this common and how do I fix it? Probably a plugged cowl drain, organic residue likes to build up down there. Just pop the cover and clean it out.
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Mar 17, 2011 16:57
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Bucephalus posted:The "multi" in "multimeter" refers to the ability to measure resistance (ohms), AC and DC voltage, current, and frequency (Hz). So, yes. Pretty sure it is, however, it is pretty well adopted, with parts specific to the model typically using the designation.
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Mar 18, 2011 03:10
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Veeb0rg posted:My 95 doesn't have these switches, I don't think I've ever seen these switches in an XJ floor shifter. The NSS on the transmission itself takes care of the starter lockout and reverse lights. Unless your talking about a Grand Cherokee, I've never looked at the shifter in one of those. FFFFF, you're right, I was thinking of the Grand Cherokee... Oh well.
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Mar 18, 2011 13:37
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Philip J Fry posted:Probably a plugged cowl drain, organic residue likes to build up down there. Just pop the cover and clean it out. That makes more sense than my AC leaking since I haven't used it. At least it is going to be in the upper 60s outside today in PA so I can work on this without freezing my rear end off. Hooray for Spring!
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Mar 18, 2011 15:15
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I have a bad wheel bearing/hub in the front of my XJ--are there any cheap torque wrenches that can handle 175 ft/lbs to take off and put on the hub nut? Harbor Freight has a massive 3/4" drive one that goes to 300 for $75 (their cheap 1/2" drive only goes to 150). I'm thinking I'll probably just have a shop replace it but was curious if anyone has tackled it.
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Mar 18, 2011 19:12
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mod sassinator posted:I have a bad wheel bearing/hub in the front of my XJ--are there any cheap torque wrenches that can handle 175 ft/lbs to take off and put on the hub nut? Harbor Freight has a massive 3/4" drive one that goes to 300 for $75 (their cheap 1/2" drive only goes to 150). I'm thinking I'll probably just have a shop replace it but was curious if anyone has tackled it. You don't want to take off bolts with a torque wrench. It will mess them up, You should see about renting one from your local parts store.
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Mar 18, 2011 19:39
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Philip J Fry posted:Probably a plugged cowl drain, organic residue likes to build up down there. Just pop the cover and clean it out. Ok, so once I take the cowl off where is the drain? I'm just not seeing it.
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Mar 20, 2011 16:41
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There's a pretty good write-up here. There's a few things that can cause leaks, but this is the most common (affecting Wranglers as well). The problem with XJ's is the metal in the way on the passenger side. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/water-leaking-cowl-34969/ Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Mar 20, 2011 |
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Mar 20, 2011 17:09
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Frag Viper posted:Turned my 94 XJ on, backed out the driveway and it stalled and wouldnt turn on again. All i can hear is the starter. Almost this same exact thing happened to me on my YJ. Replacing the crankshaft position sensor didn't fix it -- granted I have been lazy about it but I still haven't actually solved the problem. The timing chain was badly stretched, so hopefully replacing that will solve it.
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Mar 21, 2011 05:55
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I thought it was my ECM since I replaced the coil and CPS and the same thing happened. Having admitted defeat I took it to my mechanic who told me it was the engine control fuse that blew. The sad thing is that im starting to lose faith in my XJ. I dont like the thought if being stranded in the middle of nowhere, and all sorts of things are going out on it recently. Its 17 years old after all.
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Mar 21, 2011 10:43
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Frag Viper posted:I thought it was my ECM since I replaced the coil and CPS and the same thing happened. Having admitted defeat I took it to my mechanic who told me it was the engine control fuse that blew. Where does one find the engine control fuse? Is it part of the regular fuse box under the hood? Once I get my new timing chain on I won't be surprised to learn that the fucker still won't start and that it was a $1 fuse 
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Mar 24, 2011 01:24
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Clamwacker posted:Where does one find the engine control fuse? Is it part of the regular fuse box under the hood? Once I get my new timing chain on I won't be surprised to learn that the fucker still won't start and that it was a $1 fuse ECU fuse is sometimes labeled as just the "hazard" fuse too...
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Mar 24, 2011 18:57
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I'm considering getting and restoring a Willy's CJ2A. How stupid/crazy am I?
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Mar 25, 2011 03:29
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commissargribb posted:I'm considering getting and restoring a Willy's CJ2A. How stupid/crazy am I? Are you going to tub it or fix the sheet metal?
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Mar 25, 2011 07:13
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It would be freaking awesome, but probably a little costly these days depending how original you want to keep it. Expect to go no more than 40mph and have horrible on road characteristics. Basically it means when you drive it, that's what your doing, not drinking or talking on the phone, keeping the thing on the road. Its actually fun to do, for weekend toy sort of deal.
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Mar 25, 2011 07:18
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giundy posted:It would be freaking awesome, but probably a little costly these days depending how original you want to keep it. Expect to go no more than 40mph and have horrible on road characteristics. Basically it means when you drive it, that's what your doing, not drinking or talking on the phone, keeping the thing on the road. With a WARN saturn overdrive plugged into the T-90 and proper tires you can actually do highway speeds. (55 easy, 65, maaaybe.)
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Mar 25, 2011 07:22
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Sponge! posted:Are you going to tub it or fix the sheet metal? I'm going to learn how to weld!  I have the feeling it wont be easy but should be a fun challenge. giundy posted:It would be freaking awesome, but probably a little costly these days depending how original you want to keep it. Expect to go no more than 40mph and have horrible on road characteristics. Basically it means when you drive it, that's what your doing, not drinking or talking on the phone, keeping the thing on the road. I'm not incredibly worried about keeping it super original. This to me would be would be something cool to drive around the back yard and MAYBE if I get it road worthy drive to get pizza or pick up groceries on the weekend. I would be wary of driving anything like this over 40mph anyhow given safety concerns. Back roads where the speed limit 35 are more fun anyhow.
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Mar 25, 2011 14:49
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Well I'm committed now: I bought a Chilton's Manual on Ebay.
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Mar 26, 2011 01:04
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commissargribb posted:Well I'm committed now: I bought a Chilton's Manual on Ebay. I believe you can buy every body panel you need from quadratec.
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Mar 26, 2011 01:19
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Omg50BMG posted:I believe you can buy every body panel you need from quadratec. can I get a body made of Kevlar?
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Mar 26, 2011 22:22
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If I was looking to replace my distributor, coil etc. with an HEI unit, on the grounds that I'm getting a pretty weak spark and trying to figure out and replace the responsible components in the current somewhat old Duraspark setup seems likely to cost more in time and parts than just taking it all out in favor of an HEI... Got lost in my sentence there. My question is, is there a decent way to tell which HEI unit/manufacturer is a good one? Currently looking at one made by CRT for $120 on ebay (new). The seller claims it has a gear that won't destroy the camshaft, which seems to be the main concern with cheap HEI units. I've seen them ranging from $80 to $400, so $120 seems like it might be a reasonable pricepoint to get away from the worst problems without paying a premium for imaginary betterness a-la Monster cable. (This is for a 1974 Jeep CJ5 with an AMC 304 V8.) Edit for the guy below: roomforthetuna fucked around with this message at 15:03 on Mar 27, 2011 |
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Mar 27, 2011 04:49
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roomforthetuna posted:
I may really want to see a photo of your jeep. Not that I have any idea of how to answer your question.
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Mar 27, 2011 14:55
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Beep beep I got a jeep! Just picked up an 01 Cherokee Sport from a friend for a couple grand. 100k miles on it and it's been sitting in his garage for quite awhile, but man it looks great. I plan on using it for DD and a lot of camping here in Colorado. I don't plan on using it for really hard four wheeling, but I would like to use it moderately sometimes to get to the really good camping spots. Is that going to be a problem with the Dana 35? I'm really not going to abuse it. It already has a 2" lift on it and 31's. Finally, how concerned should I be about the cracking 0331 head problem that happens with some of the 00 and 01's? It's been in his garage for awhile, should I flush and change all the fluids? e: Uh...sorry for all the questions.
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Apr 1, 2011 01:55
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Nice choice! If you're not out to abuse it I wouldn't be too worried about the axles--a modest lift and 31's aren't going to put too much more stress on them anyways. It never hurts to change the fluids and you don't even need to jack it up to reach so it's super easy. You might want to replace the spark plugs, wires, etc. while you're working on it too.
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Apr 1, 2011 02:51
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Roneth posted:Finally, how concerned should I be about the cracking 0331 head problem that happens with some of the 00 and 01's? Well, see if its a 0331 head, should be visible on the front driver's side of the head, just by the valve cover lip.
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Apr 1, 2011 03:05
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EightBit posted:Well, see if its a 0331 head, should be visible on the front driver's side of the head, just by the valve cover lip. It is 
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Apr 1, 2011 03:48
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