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Milkbags posted:Yes, Yes and a thousand times Yes. drat theese guys look badass. Would I by any chance be able to find some prefferably unpainted RT Spaceorks for a relitivly affordable price or would I be expected to pay upwards of say, 30-50$ for just one? "Yagh wan a peice o dis 'ere, grot?" "WAAAGH 'n Roll!" You just need to trawl eBay. They pop up fairly often and aren't usually more than $10 a mini.
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Mar 19, 2011 01:21
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SRM posted:You just need to trawl eBay. They pop up fairly often and aren't usually more than $10 a mini. ah thats good, 10 dollers for a 10, maybe even 20 year old mini is quite frankly a descent price. I can see using them as Nobs, maybe some even as MegaNobs due to the arment
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Mar 19, 2011 01:45
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Be aware though that the older sculpts are tiny compared to the modern range.
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Mar 19, 2011 02:10
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Milkbags posted:Yes, Yes and a thousand times Yes. drat theese guys look badass. Would I by any chance be able to find some prefferably unpainted RT Spaceorks for a relitivly affordable price or would I be expected to pay upwards of say, 30-50$ for just one? "Yagh wan a peice o dis 'ere, grot?" "WAAAGH 'n Roll!" I assume Tadhg will come in and point out why I am so slow, but here are a few things I do. - Have a comfortable place to paint. It should have enough light so you are not hurting your eyes and should make you curl up into an uncomfortable postion. - Have something like a movie or TV show on in the back round that you have seen before. - Remember that minor mistakes will not be seen in a mob of boyz, so don't worry about making every single boy perfect. - Washes are your friend. My standard boy skin is Goblin Green, wash with Delvin Mud, then a quick highlight of Goblin Green. The other nice thing about it is that if you want to make them look better you can just add another highlight at a later time. - Work in batches that you can finish in 1 or 2 sessions. For me I can do 30 guys in about 8 hours worth of painting, for others it's 10, for Tadhg it's 100  . But by working in batches like that you get to see actual progress instead of base coating the arm of boy number 106.- After painting a bunch of boyz pick somthing cool to paint that you can take some time on like the units Nob, a small squad of nobz, the mobs trukk, etc. Painting the same thing 50,60, 70 times in a row with no break will burn you out (unless you are Tadhg).
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Mar 19, 2011 02:13
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Milkbags posted:ah thats good, 10 dollers for a 10, maybe even 20 year old mini is quite frankly a descent price. I can see using them as Nobs, maybe some even as MegaNobs due to the arment I have an RT/2nd ed era Crimson Fists army that I imagedump here once in a while. I built it up entirely from lucky eBay auctions, trades online, and flea markets. You can also get plastic Space Orks for fairly cheap too; the really old ones from RT go for more than the monopose 2nd ed starter set ones though.
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Mar 19, 2011 02:18
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I always wish I could get my hands on a unit of the old Beret stormtroopers and the old old RT Ogryns  Why do I love old models so much?
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Mar 19, 2011 02:52
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Hell Diver posted:I always wish I could get my hands on a unit of the old Beret stormtroopers and the old old RT Ogryns I've got some IG stormtroopers from the late 90s that had berets somewhere collecting dust - are those the ones you mean?
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Mar 19, 2011 03:05
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Hell Diver posted:I always wish I could get my hands on a unit of the old Beret stormtroopers and the old old RT Ogryns Ridiculously good taste. I've got these beret stormtroopers in plastic that came from somewhere. I didn't know they made those in plastic.
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Mar 19, 2011 03:54
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Question for any of you guys who do masking with silly putty: How reusable is it? Does it break down after getting paint on it a few times?
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Mar 19, 2011 08:25
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Milkbags posted:Any tips for speedpainting or assembling? I want to fully assemble my army by tommarow and I need to construct 4 boyz, not to mention touch up a bit on my Assault on Black Reach boys who are tragicly incomplete Backno hit the highlights, but a few more things I'll add: -Use the biggest brush that you can accurately use. You want to be able to load enough paint to be able to hit everything you're painting on the mini in one go, as well as use a minimum of brush strokes (painting a large area with a #000 brush will take forever.) I use a W&N #1 brush for the majority of my work, as it loads great, covers well, and still has a tiny sharp point for hitting tight spots. -Assembly-line your dudes so that you don't have to keep changing your paint. Paint all of their pants, then do all of their shirts, skins, weapons, etc. -Also, for the love of god, thin your paints. Thick paint will clog your brush, glomp on the guys, and by your 20th model you'll just be making a mess of things. -Don't be afraid of mistakes. If you plan for a "touchup" stage before highlighting and washing, you can be a little bolder and faster in how you basecoat. -Keep your scheme and technique simple, and break everything up into stages. Basecoat all the main colors (90% of the work right there, each basecoat color is a separate stage), do tiny details, clean up the mistakes, highlight, and wash. (Or wash then highlight, depending on how you paint your little mans.) Don't try NMM, wet blending, or other crazy poo poo on Ork Boy #153, nobody will notice your effort. -Be careful of how long the little fine details can take. On my 200 Ork Boyz kick I was seriously hamstrung by painting all the "little loving leather fuckity gently caress gently caress straps." -Willpower. More than anything else, you just have to get in the mindset of sitting down and powering through it. Set a goal for the evening, and make sure that nothing keeps you from making that goal. For the love of god, keep the goals manageable, though. Depending on my batch size, I typically plan for one major component (or several smaller components) per night. "Tonight will be the night I paint 100 pairs of pants!" or "Today I will paint 100 weapons and 100 sets of teeth!" It also helps to think of how awesome it will be when your batch is finally finished. I love the look on my friends' faces when I set up a couple hundred troops they've never seen me use before. As for "speed assembling", I actually don't advocate it. The pose/stance of the model is a huge part of the visual, and the painting helps complement that. I take the time to clean up even the tiniest of mold lines (though I still miss some...), make solid joins with plastic cement, assemble with the hope of making it look kinetic and unique,etc. Then, even if it's painted with a quick paint job it will still garner compliments on how cool it looks. Good luck, and godspeed fellow speed painting goon. 
Tadhg fucked around with this message at 08:59 on Mar 19, 2011 |
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Mar 19, 2011 08:56
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Fix posted:Ridiculously good taste. An unopened box of those, six guys, sold for like 120 dollars. Those STs are retardedly rare.
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Mar 19, 2011 14:47
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Captain Invictus posted:An unopened box of those, six guys, sold for like 120 dollars. Those STs are retardedly rare. Pretty sure I've got two boxes of those primed black, an officer or two and some heavy weapons teams. 
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Mar 19, 2011 15:10
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JesustheDarkLord posted:I've got some IG stormtroopers from the late 90s that had berets somewhere collecting dust - are those the ones you mean? These guys?  I've always wanted a unit of them, and they seem perfect for elite Catachan. Definitely need a bit of work to repose, convert them a little. I think I actually have that officer model, sans backpack, somewhere back home my buddy gave me in a lot of metal Catachan.
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Mar 19, 2011 16:09
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You might also want to consider some West Wind British Paras in Berets heads. I've gotten some of their other heads, and they should fit right in on guardsmen. If I was gonna do guard, I'd do catachans and use the berets for sergeants and veterans.
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Mar 19, 2011 17:26
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Captain Invictus posted:An unopened box of those, six guys, sold for like 120 dollars. Those STs are retardedly rare. I'm gonna have to switch those to a different box.
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Mar 19, 2011 18:10
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Devlan Mud posted:You might also want to consider some West Wind British Paras in Berets heads. I've gotten some of their other heads, and they should fit right in on guardsmen. If I was gonna do guard, I'd do catachans and use the berets for sergeants and veterans. Yeah, I'd seen those before and almost bought them a handful of times. Maybe I'll finally get some when I get back home.
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Mar 19, 2011 18:29
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For people who magnetize bases, what on earth should I be doing for flying stands? As in the clear plastic base that I'm not gonna be able to stick a rare earth magnet under. I know there's the magnetic adhesive-backed sheeting type stuff, but most I've seen in person looks pretty thick to slap underneath a flying stand, and I don't know how easy that would slip on a flocked game board.
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Mar 19, 2011 23:15
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Fix posted:
Is it the 'Give them to Hell Diver because he's a Cool Dude' box?   I'm done! All of the Space Wolves I need to paint are painted. Time to box them up and send them homewards to await my return.Here's the last batch (sans decals), and as soon as I get a chance I'll take a big group photo of everything I've painted over here so far.  p.s. Hey Fix, didja mail out dem Ogryn? Hell Diver fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Mar 19, 2011 |
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Mar 19, 2011 23:22
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Hell Diver posted:p.s. Hey Fix, didja mail out dem Ogryn? Yup. Hell Diver posted:Is it the 'Give them to Hell Diver because he's a Cool Dude' box? Nope.  
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Mar 19, 2011 23:45
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Drill your barrels, dude. May as well have caked those things in house paint, heh.  those are gorgeous, please mail me the part of your brain that does that
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Mar 20, 2011 01:15
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Edit: Ehhh, screw it. I've already committed. Must keep my secrets safe. Knowledge is power, guard it well.
Miles O'Brian fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Mar 20, 2011 |
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Mar 20, 2011 01:58
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I'm gonna piggy back on Miles' question with one of my own. Here's my Marbo:  My question is what color should his beret be? On one hand I want to leave it black as an homage to the old Ranger beret (and current all-Army headgear) and my favorite G.I. Joe as a kid, Flint. Alternately I could do it green for Special Forces, which Marbo would most certainly be, though that might look too samey along with his Green everything else. The only thing I kind of want to avoid is a red beret, because the sneakiest dude in the world probably isn't rocking bright rear end headgear. Hell Diver fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Mar 20, 2011 |
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Mar 20, 2011 02:11
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Black looks cool, yo.
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Mar 20, 2011 02:18
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Hell Diver posted:These guys? Those are the ones! I painted them up when I was like 12 so I'm halfway afraid to dig for them. Hell Diver posted:my favorite G.I. Joe as kid, Flint. 
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Mar 20, 2011 02:18
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Hell Diver posted:I'm gonna piggy back on Miles' question with one of my own. Dark blue, to represent the fine men and women of the USAF Security Forces (Security Police when I was in). 
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Mar 20, 2011 02:20
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JesustheDarkLord posted:G.I. Joe was an important part of my youth, all right? It's probably partly responsible for why I thought the Army was always so drat cool and why I'm ultimately in it now. I have yet to get my blue laser gun, though. Or maybe you're just more of a Gung Ho, fan?  
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Mar 20, 2011 02:27
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Keep it black. But it wouldn't kill you to make a gung-ho miniature either.
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Mar 20, 2011 02:28
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If your favorite Joe wasn't Snake Eyes, you are not a normal person.
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Mar 20, 2011 02:43
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JesustheDarkLord posted:If your favorite Joe wasn't Snake Eyes, you are not a Fixed Shore Leave is the best derivative character on The Venture Brothers, and he owes it all to Gung Ho.
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Mar 20, 2011 03:33
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JesustheDarkLord posted:If your favorite Joe wasn't Snake Eyes, you are not a normal person. I was always partial to Shipwreck... Then again, I had a confusing adolescence.
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Mar 20, 2011 03:37
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My favourite Joe was Cobra Commander. No one as deliberately stupid as he was could be anything but a GI Joe plant.
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Mar 20, 2011 03:42
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Hell Diver posted:Once you paint the black areas with metallics and stuff, his black beret will look just fine. Also, Flint is boss, and he's still pretty cool on GI Joe: Renegades. Also, Wild Bill is the best Joe.
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Mar 20, 2011 04:37
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Hell Diver posted:G.I. Joe was an important part of my youth, all right? It's probably partly responsible for why I thought the Army was always so drat cool and why I'm ultimately in it now. I have yet to get my blue laser gun, though. No joke, there is a Gung Ho and Sgt. Slaughter catachan unit at my FLGS, in fact I'm pretty sure there's an entire squad of 40k village people. Immanentized fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Mar 20, 2011 |
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Mar 20, 2011 04:44
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Quote =/= edit, sorry for penance, here's some last chancers I think 
Immanentized fucked around with this message at 04:49 on Mar 20, 2011 |
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Mar 20, 2011 04:46
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crosspostin' Have some crappy pictures of Kernul Grotslag, the company commander for my grot uprising counts-as-IG!    fun fact: the glyph on his shoulderpad is the ork symbol for "slave, servant, grot" 
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Mar 20, 2011 05:46
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Hell Diver posted:Is it the 'Give them to Hell Diver because he's a Cool Dude' box? Oh, poo poo, I just noticed the white spots you're putting on the eye lenses. You must have surgeon's hands.
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Mar 20, 2011 06:34
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Anyone know a good recipe for rich green cloth for capes?
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Mar 20, 2011 06:39
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I would try Goblin Green -> Thrakka Wash. Or Scorpion Green -> Thrakka Wash. but I am a lovely painter who likes to keep things simple.
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Mar 20, 2011 07:00
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will blow your mind.
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Fix posted:Anyone know a good recipe for rich green cloth for capes? Trying to work out a nice green for my Wood Elves, so let me know what you come up with (or I'll share my final recipe when I get there.)
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Mar 20, 2011 11:13
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Hell Diver posted:I'm gonna piggy back on Miles' question with one of my own. Pfft ! Do it in the red of a British Para. It ties in with traditional Catachan, and it's what those Storm Troopers up the page were sculpted for. 
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Mar 20, 2011 14:04
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