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I have the habit of pulling in the clutch if I'm braking really hard and suddenly in a straight line (not for a corner riding hard, but in an emergency) just from riding dirtbikes. To me I feel like I'll stall the engine if I lock up the rear hard while braking so it's just natural to feather the clutch to keep the motor going.
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Mar 21, 2011 21:09
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In my MSF class we learned to pull the clutch in and downshift as well, so that if you have to move away suddenly you'll be in the proper gear when you let the clutch back out. Well, they didn't fully explain it like that, but once I started using the technique in the real world it became obvious that was why. If you don't pull the clutch in, wouldn't you stall?
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Mar 21, 2011 21:11
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Depending on how hard you brake you could stall. If you lock up the rear especially you're very likely to stall it if you don't pull the clutch in. Street tires have enough grip that you'll probably catch again and start the bike if you're in 2nd or higher. I wouldn't want to test that theory though and I'll just be safe and clutch it haha. This is only for straight line though, if you're emergency braking while turned you probably have other bad poo poo to worry about other than thought experiments haha.
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Mar 21, 2011 21:20
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JP Money posted:I have the habit of pulling in the clutch if I'm braking really hard and suddenly in a straight line (not for a corner riding hard, but in an emergency) just from riding dirtbikes. To me I feel like I'll stall the engine if I lock up the rear hard while braking so it's just natural to feather the clutch to keep the motor going. I transfered this habit over from driving a car. As for the killswitch, yes if you are dumb enough to leave the keys in the ignition in the on position it will drain the battery. That's just simple logic since the killswitch only turns off the engine. Whoever at Triumph thought that was necessary to put into the manual should be drowned in a tub of Lotus glue.
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Mar 21, 2011 22:23
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redscare posted:As for the killswitch, yes if you are dumb enough to leave the keys in the ignition in the on position it will drain the battery. That's just simple logic since the killswitch only turns off the engine. Whoever at Triumph thought that was necessary to put into the manual should be drowned in a tub of Lotus glue. Haha, yeah. If that's the reasoning for not using the kill switch then that's ridiculous. I hit the kill switch, and immediately turn the key off and remove it.
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Mar 22, 2011 13:32
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KozmoNaut posted:My dad has worked with electronics for the last ~35 years and his input is that any piece of electronics that can't handle a clean loss of power without dying or sustaining permanent damage should pretty much have resulted in the responsible engineer being sacked on the spot. Sure, that's why everyone agrees it's weird. And why I assumed it probably had something to do with the cat that the 954 didn't have but my hornet does. But the explanation re: triumphs that it's just to prevent people draining their batteries by leaving the ignition set to 'run' sounds at least as plausible.
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Mar 22, 2011 13:42
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I always kill the bike with the killswitch. It's muscle memory at this point, not particularly worth it to try and make myself use the key. Also, I never pull the clutch in during emergency braking because I've always felt that you lose the extra engine braking. Never been too concerned about locking up the rear and stalling since I only use the rear brake below 20mph.
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Mar 22, 2011 14:04
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Has anyone else had their key start getting difficult to turn from sitting out in the weather? Over the last couple weeks the key in my SV is getting harder to turn, I'm assuming it is from sitting out in the rain while I'm at work. Would a blast of WD-40, electronics cleaner or compressed air clean everything out?
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Mar 22, 2011 14:16
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NitroSpazzz posted:Has anyone else had their key start getting difficult to turn from sitting out in the weather? Over the last couple weeks the key in my SV is getting harder to turn, I'm assuming it is from sitting out in the rain while I'm at work. Would a blast of WD-40, electronics cleaner or compressed air clean everything out? It should. I've done that with car locks that got gummed up. I'd try the electronics cleaner first.
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Mar 22, 2011 15:08
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NitroSpazzz posted:Has anyone else had their key start getting difficult to turn from sitting out in the weather? Over the last couple weeks the key in my SV is getting harder to turn, I'm assuming it is from sitting out in the rain while I'm at work. Would a blast of WD-40, electronics cleaner or compressed air clean everything out? The best thing to use is graphite. I've found a light coating of gear oil on the key usually frees things up too.
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Mar 22, 2011 15:39
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-Inu- posted:Also, I never pull the clutch in during emergency braking because I've always felt that you lose the extra engine braking. Never been too concerned about locking up the rear and stalling since I only use the rear brake below 20mph. Read page nine to understand why to pull the clutch in. Skier fucked around with this message at 16:08 on Mar 22, 2011 |
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Mar 22, 2011 16:02
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Z3n posted:The best thing to use is graphite. I've found a light coating of gear oil on the key usually frees things up too. Ask me how I know.
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Mar 22, 2011 16:20
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Z3n posted:The best thing to use is graphite. I've found a light coating of gear oil on the key usually frees things up too. Seconding the graphite thing, didn't believe it until I tried it (the source is someone who bullshits alot). Good to know it doesn't do any damage.
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Mar 22, 2011 16:31
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Skier posted:Read page nine to understand why to pull the clutch in. This is really cool. TLDR: the best technique is disengaging the clutch but not downshifting.
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Mar 22, 2011 16:36
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I always disengaged the clutch, but if I don't downshift as I slow my 636 won't downshift at all. It can't go from a high gear to a low at a stop, the shifter will just flop around.  Now about the other side... I always covered the front brake with two fingers. I felt like I could stop faster and moving from an iron grip on the throttle up and over the brake lever is something that could get messed up in an emergency stop. But the other day I noticed I tend to put pressure on the front brake lever if I'm leaning over enough. Not actually braking the bike, but pulling the lever a bit which makes me think I really shouldn't be doing this. I would straighten up and realize the brake lever was in a bit without knowing I'd done it. When I took the advanced MSF course, the guy told me covering the brake at all is no good because I won't be able to brake with only a finger or two. He was a guy who never rode a sportbike though, so I pretty much ignored him as a sportbike obviously doesn't need a full hand grip to brake. So what's the consensus with covering the front brake during spirited riding? Should I cut it out right now and cover it in traffic only?
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Mar 22, 2011 16:57
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I can through go through all gears while sort of stationary. If I'm working on I'll just spin the rear tire 1/4 turn with the clutch in, I'f I'm sitting at a stop I'll creep a bit forward. Or just release the clutch a little, I suppose something spins a little bit so other things can do their thing. Superior Suzuki gearboxen. 
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Mar 22, 2011 17:22
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Gnaghi posted:I always disengaged the clutch, but if I don't downshift as I slow my 636 won't downshift at all. It can't go from a high gear to a low at a stop, the shifter will just flop around. If you let the clutch out just a little bit, to the friction point, you can shift. Motorcycle transmissions don't shift well when they're not spinning, so a little bit of load from the engine will get them spinning and let you mash through the gears. quote:Now about the other side... Rotate and adjust your levers until you don't do that anymore. I always cover the brake, always brake 2 fingers, except on the track, where I'll full hand the throttle on corner exit (mainly because I know I won't have to brake coming out of a corner). Edit: team ola  
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Mar 22, 2011 17:27
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Yeah right now I adjust them all the way in and it never seems close enough. I think what's worse is I've used the two fingers on the lever as a kinda stabilizing force for my throttle hand, so if I were to stop doing it or adjust them out I would lose some throttle control there. I also always have a crampbuster on there, I dunno if that makes any difference. It's nice to know the trans is normal too, it's already been rebuilt once by the PO after it lost third gear. Kawasaki 
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Mar 22, 2011 17:48
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what I learned on my motorcycle training for emergency stops is grab/stomp everything, that is to say, grab clutch, grab front brake, push rear brake, push shifter pedal. Obviously don't lock everything up, but just "all limbs do something" is a pretty easy thing for your primitive lizard brain to remember if it thinks survival depends on it.
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Mar 22, 2011 18:33
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Gnaghi posted:Yeah right now I adjust them all the way in and it never seems close enough. I think what's worse is I've used the two fingers on the lever as a kinda stabilizing force for my throttle hand, so if I were to stop doing it or adjust them out I would lose some throttle control there. I also always have a crampbuster on there, I dunno if that makes any difference. Aftermarket levers are awesome because they tend to allow a lot more adjustment than most stock levers. I cannot stand crampbusters, so you're on your own there. They always hosed with my throttle control and braking. You need to stop using the lever as a stabilizer for your hand, that's a really bad habit.
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Mar 22, 2011 18:34
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Linedance posted:what I learned on my motorcycle training for emergency stops is grab/stomp everything, that is to say, grab clutch, grab front brake, push rear brake, push shifter pedal. Obviously don't lock everything up, but just "all limbs do something" is a pretty easy thing for your primitive lizard brain to remember if it thinks survival depends on it. Yeah, although if the study referenced above is correct, you shouldn't downshift until after you've come to a stop. The runs where they attempted to downshift were by far the worst, probably because it diverts too much attention from braking.
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Mar 22, 2011 18:39
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Z3n posted:You need to stop using the lever as a stabilizer for your hand, that's a really bad habit. Ugh yeah I figured I'm gonna need to work on this. Now watch a seasoned rider go back to being a squirrely kid with the throttle.
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Mar 22, 2011 20:18
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Hey Doc Zero they used your bike for those braking tests!
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Mar 22, 2011 20:36
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SlightlyMadman posted:Yeah, although if the study referenced above is correct, you shouldn't downshift until after you've come to a stop. The runs where they attempted to downshift were by far the worst, probably because it diverts too much attention from braking. no downshift attempted, just selecting down the gearbox with the clutch pulled in.
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Mar 22, 2011 22:36
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Crayvex posted:Hey Doc Zero they used your bike for those braking tests! Valkyrie: Yellowjacket edition. And it may look silly, but those training wheels things have really cut down on the road rash. 
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Mar 22, 2011 22:57
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I wanna ride a bike with those training wheels on them. I think it'd be fun to hang wayyyy the gently caress off a hardley and drag knee
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Mar 23, 2011 04:06
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NitroSpazzz posted:Has anyone else had their key start getting difficult to turn from sitting out in the weather? Over the last couple weeks the key in my SV is getting harder to turn, I'm assuming it is from sitting out in the rain while I'm at work. Would a blast of WD-40, electronics cleaner or compressed air clean everything out? Yeah, check your key to make sure you haven't twisted it. I had the same problem as you and ended up twisting the key from trying to turn it so hard. A little blast of WD40 and pliers did the job, but I have heard that WD40 isn't recommended.
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Mar 23, 2011 04:12
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Frankston posted:A little blast of WD40 and pliers did the job, but I have heard that WD40 isn't recommended. I've been told that too, but I've used it before with no ill effects. Blast of compressed air down to barrel to clear out debris, a good blast of WD40 then some more compressed air, give it a while to dry out (overnight), then hit it with the graphite powder. When you use the graphite powder, squirt a little down the barrel, then coat your key with some and run it in and out of the barrel a few times as well as a few turns.
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Mar 23, 2011 04:18
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2ndclasscitizen posted:I've been told that too, but I've used it before with no ill effects. You definitely shouldn't use WD40 by itself, it's a water displacer, not a lubricant as such and all the oils in it that initially provide lubrication evaporate relatively quickly. But it's brilliant for cleaning and drying out a lock so you can lubricate it properly afterwards, preferably with graphite powder as you said, since some locks don't really like being lubricated with oil.
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Mar 23, 2011 09:43
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Did the gear oil method for now and it helped a lot. Will find some graphite powder and do it correctly when the weather isn't so beautiful. Finally got the oil leak fixed on the CRF and took it for another spirited ride around the area. drat that thing is a step up from the DRZ. I just need to get used to riding a CRF on the street...bump/hill/green light loft the front, stop sign/red light loft the rear.
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Mar 23, 2011 13:40
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I'm kind of curious, not that I'm hard up or upset about it, but I did some checking around to get a replacement for a broken left side passenger footpeg mounting bracket (and peg) for my triumph daytona (2002), and found one 'scuffed' for 20 bucks and something like 16 bucks shipping. I was pretty happy since the closest I could find to a replacement was like ...60 or something? I forget. Seemed pricey. But now I'm wondering what odds and ends like a small bolt on piece generally cost.
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Mar 23, 2011 19:39
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NitroSpazzz posted:Did the gear oil method for now and it helped a lot. Will find some graphite powder and do it correctly when the weather isn't so beautiful. Bump/loft the front/lock up the rear/loft the front/eat dinner/rebuild. Repeat every week.
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Mar 23, 2011 19:39
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:I'm kind of curious, not that I'm hard up or upset about it, but I did some checking around to get a replacement for a broken left side passenger footpeg mounting bracket (and peg) for my triumph daytona (2002), and found one 'scuffed' for 20 bucks and something like 16 bucks shipping. I was pretty happy since the closest I could find to a replacement was like ...60 or something? I forget. Seemed pricey. That's about right. 60$ seems reasonable for OEM footpeg bracket and peg. It really ranges depending on the bike and manufacturer though.
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Mar 23, 2011 20:47
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Link in Norwegian, but you'll understand what you need to know: http://www.finn.no/finn/mc/used/object?finnkode=27521831 Finally someone chose that pic for selling that bike.
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Mar 23, 2011 23:24
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JP Money posted:Bump/loft the front/lock up the rear/loft the front/eat dinner/rebuild. Repeat every week.
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Mar 24, 2011 13:12
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Speaking of the Gap, how packed is that place in May/June? I'm definitely going to stop there for a couple of days on a future trip, but I'm a little bit wary because of how many people I assume will be packed onto those routes.
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Mar 24, 2011 19:13
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They tend to have lots of rallies and group rides on the weekends there, as well as plenty of LEO hanging around. Weekdays are probably better. The LEO generally leaves around October once their state funding runs out. This is all just secondhand info I've gathered from forums.
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Mar 24, 2011 19:59
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May/June and the rest of the "season" it is busy and there is a LEO presence from around 10am to 4pm. If I want to do any serious riding during the summer I get there at sunrise and have 3-4 hours of little to no traffic. Can do the same in the evening and I do that a lot after work. Weekends can get bad with different groups riding and going during the week is a great option if you have it. Most of the time traffic isn't too bad and many people are smart enough to use the pull offs to let faster traffic by. If not passing can be a bit dangerous especially if you do not know the road. One fun thing to do in the summer on weekends is ride early in the morning then sit and BS with the photographers when the traffic starts getting bad. People are always trying to show off in front of the cameras. LEO's aren't really that bad at any time. Unless you are obviously riding over your head or dangerously they will generally leave you alone. It does take a while to get over the "oh poo poo" reaction coming around a corner dragging knee and seeing a LEO watching you. A lot of them ride and are decent to sit and talk with, they are just trying to keep the assholes that can't stick to their lane or that like to show off under control.
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Mar 24, 2011 22:33
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Ah, I've heard horror stories about the LEO, but I guess that might have been from the guys riding like total dongs. We'll be camping throughout the trip for the most part, so early starts won't be a huge issue either. Let's trade houses for a bit, living close enough that it's just a "head over there if I feel like it" trip must be fantastic 
AncientTV fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Mar 25, 2011 |
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Mar 24, 2011 23:06
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Cycle Asylum: riding like total dongs
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Mar 25, 2011 00:06
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