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The way to decide if the engine makes enough power vs. weight is to just go drive it. We all have opinions (for instance, I drive like a grandpa a lot of the time), but your personal butt-dyno is going to tell you everything you need to know. It's certainly not a car or an engine reputed to be dog-slow or weak, to satisfy the "official" part of your question. I feel like I should point out that while Volvos in general have a good winter-weather reputation, this car's plastic-clad skid-plated AWD sister the XC70 has a much stronger case to make for winter driving, if that's one of your shopping imperatives.
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Mar 20, 2011 18:02
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My XC90 is in the shop for some CPO Warranty repairs (clusterfuck story in a different post), until it's done, I'm driving a 2010 S40 2.4i. I'm surprised at how much pickup a normally-aspirated 5 cylinder (rated at under 170hp) has. It's not going to tear up the road, but it's far more than I'd expect. The turbo version in this car would be serious fun. So yeah does "x" have enough power? Depends on the motor / car combo.
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Mar 20, 2011 18:08
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The T5 has around 50 hp more than the NA version and it shows in the butt dyno. A NA 2.4 is decent but the T5 takes it up to a whole different level. What I like about the T5 is the day to day driveability, the power is a foot stab away but in normal driving the car feels fine. The lack of turbo lag makes it a lot of fun and passing manuevers take much less planning than a 160HP car. Just for fun, compare modern cars against the late 70's, early 80's "musclecars". 6.6 TransAm, 220 HP, modern 2.4 T5 engine, 220 hp. 
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Mar 20, 2011 23:43
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My V70R is 236hp =)
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Mar 21, 2011 04:50
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Oxphocker posted:My V70R is 236hp =) I thought all the Rs of that generation were 300hp?
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Mar 21, 2011 05:49
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I have a 98... The 03-05s were 300hp. This winter in the petrified forest... Oxphocker fucked around with this message at 14:04 on Mar 21, 2011 |
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Mar 21, 2011 13:58
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The 2003 V70: I drove it, and much to my surprise I really liked it. Solid like a tank, cocoon-like passenger compartment, incredibly comfortable seats, nice ride, and it seems like it has more power than my Forester. Not a turbo, but that's okay; it's less to go wrong. The steering was a bit heavy, but I know it's not a sports car; that can be excused. I know Volvo wagons have the reputations as family trucksters, and I'm single, but I think the V70 would be a great long distance/highway car. (I've got to drive between Ithaca and Buffalo every few weeks, and I've got property in the Cleveland area I have to keep tabs on.) What questions should I ask when I return to the dealer? I know timing belts are an issue, so I'm going to ask if they were recently replaced. (If not, a condition of my purchase will be their replacement; they're an independent that deals exclusively in Volvos., and they have a decent reputation.)
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Mar 21, 2011 22:07
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Maintenance records are key. When was the last time brakes, struts, calipers, alignment was done? Consistent oil changes with Mann filters? All the trim/exterior intact? Does the tailgate latch properly or rattle? Do the tailgate struts need replacement? (key, hatch should stay open and take effort to close...if it closes on it's own the struts need replacement) Interior intact including knee bolsters? Do the mats need replacement...if so, get the deep rubber/plastic ones - you'll thank yourself in winter weather. AC cold? Heat hot?
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Mar 21, 2011 23:15
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Oxphocker posted:Maintenance records are key. Thanks! I'll check out all those things tomorrow, when I head back and talk to a salesperson. I just may be joining the Volvo cult.
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Mar 22, 2011 03:02
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If you're gonna join a cult...this is a nice one.
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Mar 22, 2011 05:30
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Wheels are over rated So are most suspension components  Waiting on the UPS fairy to bring happiness.
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Mar 22, 2011 06:00
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elmwood posted:What questions should I ask when I return to the dealer? If the oil was only changed on the factory recommended intervals, you're probably looking at a clogged PCV system by 100k. Find out if they have that record, and if not see if you can haggle a PCV replacement while you're at it. It's about a $500 job similar to the timing belt, if they throw it in it'll be worth paying a little more for. Find out if the spring seats specifically are in good shape. You can actually test this by putting a wrench on the strut nuts (under the hood) and turning them. If it turns and doesn't have rubbery resistance that springs back, they're shot. It's a very common problem and it makes for a very clunky ride. Labor to replace them is the same as changing the struts so it's common and wise to replace them whenever struts are done. Learning to do work on it yourself will save you a lot of money. We can help, feel free to post questions when the time comes.
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Mar 22, 2011 07:30
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LloydDobler posted:
Gonna quote this because before last year I didn't know what an alternator is and now I can replace/label every piece in my car with minimal effort Currently doing some headwork on my dad's 240 then gonna do three sets of brakes then I'm putting half-inch shorter belts on my 240 so the tensioner actually works. My dad's Focus's transmission just went out at 70k miles and I guess Fords have lovely warranties so $1900 he's getting it fixed. And his Ford Econoline van's metal heater pipe just corroded leaking coolant everywhere and would cost $1000 to fix (engine drop) so he's donating it to charity instead. (130k miles) Oh, both in the same week. It pains me to think about what luxury car costs are.
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Mar 22, 2011 08:28
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Holy poo poo, I've spotted a v70 T5 with a manual transmission. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/2271060097.html If I check it out, I'd probably get an inspection from a shop, but is there anything I should be weary of right off the bat? At that mileage, should I expect/be hoping for some recent maintenance? I can see that it has a mismatched pair of wheels, I'll have to inquire about that. Man, I'm just stoked that there's a T5 manual for sale near by. These things seem rarer than a blue moon.
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Mar 22, 2011 11:27
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They only imported about 150 T5 manual wagons in '98 from what I've read, so yeah it's rare as gently caress. I'd make sure it isn't a manual swap, not that there's anything wrong with that, it just means there's more to watch out for and more that can be wrong with it. I think it should have a spoiler on it if it's a true T5, but I'm not 100% on that. That's an alright price.
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Mar 22, 2011 15:17
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Oxphocker posted:My V70R is 236hp =) Nice. Mine has 301.
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Mar 22, 2011 16:03
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netwerk23 posted:Nice. Mine has 301. 04?
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Mar 23, 2011 01:41
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My S60 nearly fell on me tonight. It landed on a strut that I had hanging out and that strut likely saved my life. I need to frame that strut.
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Mar 23, 2011 05:58
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blankooie posted:My S60 nearly fell on me tonight. It landed on a strut that I had hanging out and that strut likely saved my life. I need to frame that strut. Holy poo poo. What happened?
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Mar 23, 2011 06:01
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along with the usual documents that came with my 240 wagon, I got this paper It's a bit bigger than what my scanner can handle, what I should do is take it to my office and maybe I will just do that- after the markup, this one was closer to $15K new in 1985. That was fairly serious money back then 
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Mar 23, 2011 06:31
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the poi posted:Holy poo poo. What happened? I was on the drivers side of the car at the rear wheel readjusting the jackstand (i lifted the car up a tad with the factory jack) and it just swayed towards me. My head and upper torso was under the car at this time. Instinct was to BACK THE gently caress UP when it came down after me. Strut on rear passengers side was hanging down (disconnected from top) and caught on the ground, stopping the car from hitting full bottom and sliding further. The jackstand that was on the drivers side was now lifting into the gas tank, but did not breech it (THANK SWEDISH JEBUS) I have no idea what went wrong, but if I ever decide to get under this car again, its going to be with a floorjack. So right now my car is lowered 1.5" in the front (yay H&R sport springs!) with no new springs installed in the back, and a missing strut on the passenger side rear (bouncy!) and a ABD light on because I forgot to plug a ABS sensor back in somehow  Anyways, going to take it into a shop and have them do the rears, as I am still scared shitless of my car now. Also picking up a replacement strut for them to install. Pics coming soon. blankooie fucked around with this message at 07:24 on Mar 23, 2011 |
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Mar 23, 2011 07:17
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Glad you're OK, man. I don't know what the jack is like in an S60, but I've had the factory jacks from RWD cars go wobbly too many times (even on flat concrete) for me to be comfortable using them for anything but a tire change. On a somewhat lighter note, I've amassed almost all the parts necessary to add a turbo to my 240, but I'm missing one thing-the coldside pipe that connects the intercooler to the intake manifold. I need one from a pre-'90 740 Turbo, but the local yards are barren. If anyone here has a spare, I'd rather buy it from you than try and get it on Turbobricks. I don't have plat/PMs, but if you want, send me an email at ck299906 at ohio dot edu, and maybe we can make a deal.
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Mar 23, 2011 08:09
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Just the metal, not the rubber part of the coldside tubing? I probably got you covered. Blankooie, holy poo poo man.  Go get a good jack and throw away your factory one right now. The Tools thread has a great one on the front page, and it's maybe $80.
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Mar 23, 2011 11:41
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Heres my no longer straight strut, compared to my pretty straight macbook. On a positive note, check out the stance in the front  However, without having the new springs on the rear, I'm getting that raked look   Really need some pegasus 17s and I'm set.
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Mar 23, 2011 17:32
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Splizwarf posted:Just the metal, not the rubber part of the coldside tubing? I probably got you covered. Yeah, just the metal-I was planning on getting some new couplers for it. If you have/could find something, that would be awesome. 
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Mar 23, 2011 19:27
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Does anyone know how obdII compliant I should expect my 99 v70 to be?
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Mar 24, 2011 14:06
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Cakefool posted:Does anyone know how obdII compliant I should expect my 99 v70 to be? my 98 works just fine with an obdII scanner...so the 99 shouldn't be a problem..
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Mar 24, 2011 14:10
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Oxphocker posted:my 98 works just fine with an obdII scanner...so the 99 shouldn't be a problem.. You wouldn't happen to know which protocol it (the volvo) uses would you?
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Mar 24, 2011 14:19
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Oxphocker posted:04?
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Mar 24, 2011 18:19
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I would love to have an electric blue 04 R...about the only upgrade I'd want right now really... I'm not sure which protocol it is because my hand scanner does all 4.. I know it's not the new BUS one...
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Mar 24, 2011 23:23
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Alright, finally got my hands on an ODBII reader (btw Cakefool, I'm using a 95 850 and it supports ODBII so you're fine) and got my fault code: P0715: Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit First question is, would this cause my car to run rich? Second, what am I looking at in terms of replacement? Is this something so easy a caveman could do it, or am I looking at a shop? And if so, how much am I looking at?
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Mar 25, 2011 00:16
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Casao posted:Alright, finally got my hands on an ODBII reader (btw Cakefool, I'm using a 95 850 and it supports ODBII so you're fine) and got my fault code: For what it's worth, the 850 supported OBDII in '94, everything but the Advanced Emissions part (evap self-testing), which didn't get finalized until '96 anyway. 1. I don't think so based on what it does, but haven't worked much on an 850, so. 2. If you're willing to muck about with your car, you should find this VolvoForums thread useful, both for the diagram and pictures, and the fact that it turned out to be his wiring rather than the sensor. The simplest way to test the sensor will be for me to mail you an extra, I'll see if I can't find one by the end of the week.  e: my offer should not stop you from going out and doing a visual inspection of the wiring to and from the sensor. Any abrasion will be relatively obvious; to test for melting, gently pull the wire while holding both ends (hold near the ends of the wire, not gripping the plugs) and see if it stretches a little, it shouldn't. Sniff around the area too. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Mar 25, 2011 |
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Mar 25, 2011 00:46
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Springs are in, alignment is off. Does corners like a dream  
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Mar 25, 2011 19:04
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Nice. Forgot to mention we had the first Denver Volvo club get together last sunday, apparently there were tons of people eager to get out, we had around 15 cars show up. It was the first meet for the old beast, and it had a very hard time keeping up.
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Mar 25, 2011 23:26
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/\/\ Looks the best tho
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Mar 26, 2011 04:08
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sup guys i took a picture of my car 2day
as halfway crooks fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Mar 29, 2011 |
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Mar 29, 2011 02:14
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So, turns out what I'd misremembered as an S60 is actually a 2004 S80 with 55k miles on it, and it's in awesome condition. This thing owns.
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Mar 30, 2011 01:17
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Would it be blasphemy to remove my Hallman boost controller with the idea of replacing it with a T valve bleeding into the air? I can never get this thing to run right in my loving car. It's driving me insane.
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Mar 30, 2011 10:26
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Xovaan posted:Would it be blasphemy to remove my Hallman boost controller with the idea of replacing it with a T valve bleeding into the air? What's it doing? I've got a Hallman in my car and it's never given me a bit of trouble.
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Mar 30, 2011 13:27
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TheJeffers posted:What's it doing? I've got a Hallman in my car and it's never given me a bit of trouble. No matter what boost I set it to, the thing just feels clunky. I'm either getting no boost or full boost. When I had a T-valve in my car before this (back when I was rocking the B21ft), the thing had the best spool I've encountered. The car's turbo felt incredibly responsive. edit: somebody talk me out of building up a 16vt engine Knot My President! fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Mar 30, 2011 |
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Mar 30, 2011 20:29
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