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Sockington posted:You have one. i know where u live
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Mar 19, 2011 03:34
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(save a good set for two weeks, my good man)
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Anyone going to the Mach V (fastwrx.com) open house in Sterling,VA tomorrow? Looks like 84+ MAIC cars will be there.
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Mar 19, 2011 03:43
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What's the maintenance on swaybars/ALK like? I was surprised to see some people in another forum saying they had to unbolt and regrease every 6 months or so, which is less than ideal. If that's actually the case I might skip them and do only coilovers instead.
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Mar 19, 2011 18:01
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Does anyone have any idea on a ballpark figure of what a passenger's side power heated mirror for a 2011 Outback 3.6R is gonna run me? My wife just managed to back out and clip the garage door rail and cracked the casing for the passenger's side mirror. Something tells me that just the casing can't be replaced and its going to be hideously expensive to replace.
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Mar 21, 2011 03:50
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Huge_Midget posted:Does anyone have any idea on a ballpark figure of what a passenger's side power heated mirror for a 2011 Outback 3.6R is gonna run me? My wife just managed to back out and clip the garage door rail and cracked the casing for the passenger's side mirror. Something tells me that just the casing can't be replaced and its going to be hideously expensive to replace. http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Outback&subcat=Mirror+Cover+Right+Replacement&year=2010
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Mar 21, 2011 04:17
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Amandyke posted:http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Outback&subcat=Mirror+Cover+Right+Replacement&year=2010 Chances are this will have to be done at a dealership. Paint matching, labor, etc. I'm probably looking at $500 right?
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Mar 21, 2011 04:44
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This is why you learn how to drive your car as goddamn hard as possible before you mod - it goes much faster than you realise.  WRX's with modded suspension and 45 more Kw are only 1-2 secs faster and I have more left to get out of the stocker.  And even when the track's getting wet..... CAT INTERCEPTOR fucked around with this message at 12:04 on Mar 21, 2011 |
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Mar 21, 2011 12:01
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Does anyone know if there is anything special I need to do to get to all 16 valve cover bolts? There isn't much documentation I've found as far as getting access to them. I'd post for help on NASIOC but they have a "you must reply x times before you can post" rule.
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Mar 21, 2011 16:17
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maybe a long, offset box end wrench would be handy, but there's nothing special you need. it's just tedious. The lower ones are easier to get to from under the car. Blargle I've had to re-grease my swaybars once in a couple years after they started squeaking. CT it's going to be funny to see your tune change after you put on a few simple little suspension parts and improve the alignment.
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Mar 21, 2011 20:29
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jamal posted:
You mean like my STI that has all little bits and pieces, real suspension (DMS) plus 60 more Kw at the wheels AND at the time a R160 plated diff and yet is 3.3 seconds slower, even after it was changed to be tarmac spec? No, the point I've always made is that you can get a great deal more out of the standard car than almost all realise, get the absolute most out of it FIRST before fiddling as AFTER that point the fiddles become clear if they work or not and not just placebos. Yes I could shortcut and get 2 secs with more POWAAAA or a better suspension combo but I would rather get the two seconds learning how to drive it to it's utter maximum potential. Despite cutting good times I can do the following first to reach the point of maximum potential 1) Brake fluid. 5 year old OEM isnt a good idea 2) OEM 5 year old rear pads also not a good idea 3) Front pads needed changing out to something that can get that last 20 meters before being last of the late brakers 4) Pick second to get max drive out of a corner where it bogged down and fell off boost in third. 5) Keep it flat at kink and brake 50 meters later front straight, kept backing off. 6) Work out line and braking point next corner That can get me up to a second off my time and I havent done anything. No, until I'm convinced there is nothing left, nothing gets touched as I know this car despite it's time being very good, can get even better.
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Mar 21, 2011 22:42
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I'm in the market for a used Legacy or Outback and I have some questions. I want to replace my 99 Chevy Tahoe, I was looking for a Civic to save on gas because I'm a college student, but I realized I would miss the 4wd capabilities (which I actually use) and the ability to carry anything larger than a suitcase. I live in california and I'm a big tree hugger, so no more SUV for me. But the most intense off-roading I'll do is going to the desert and the beach so I really want AWD and a wagon so I can take some friends and drive on dusty dirt roads and dry lake beds and not get stuck. I'm looking at the 95-99 (2nd gen) and then there have been some 00-02's (3rd gen) I'm looking at too, and some questions came up. -Is the 3rd gen that much better than the second that it's worth spending a little extra on? -Gas mileage is a concern of mine, and the 2nd seems to be more efficient than the 3rd gen. The most miserly engine seems to be the 2.2 available from 97-99, but they seem hard to find in a 5-speed, are they that much of a pig that nobody bought them, or is the economy difference between the 2.2 and 2.5 pretty negligible? -Anybody who has a 2.5 2nd or 3rd gen wagon around here? What's your mileage like?
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Mar 21, 2011 22:52
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Cat Terrist posted:This is why you learn how to drive your car as goddamn hard as possible before you mod - it goes much faster than you realise. Too true, I was at an autocross a few weeks ago and saw plenty of people whose cars were modded beyond their driving ability. I was faster than 95% of them in my mostly stock 08 STI (only has FSB, wider RE-01r tires, Accessport) and most of them should have been much faster than me. I had TTOD in the morning when it was a bit wet but as it dried up others started catching up. Not saying that I wouldn't be faster with some mods, but it's pretty drat good stock and I'd like to stay within the SCCA "stock" class rules. I also love it when guys that have a laundry list of mods/rice ask what I've done to the car and find that they just got beaten by a car that is mostly stock and has a baby seat in the back.
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Mar 22, 2011 01:01
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Lazor posted:they just got beaten by a car that is mostly stock and has a baby seat in the back. That needs to stay in the car, either as the first entry on your list of mods, or the last entry.
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Mar 22, 2011 02:51
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I modded mine simply because I found the turbo response lacking. With the new tubing bits, it's like a different car. I actually have some low end power, which makes the car much more driveable. If I had the 2.5T instead of the 2.0 I might not have bothered with anything more than a reflash.
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Mar 22, 2011 02:52
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Rontalvos posted:I'm in the market for a used Legacy or Outback and I have some questions.
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Mar 22, 2011 03:12
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Wrar posted:I modded mine simply because I found the turbo response lacking. With the new tubing bits, it's like a different car. I actually have some low end power, which makes the car much more driveable. If I had the 2.5T instead of the 2.0 I might not have bothered with anything more than a reflash. That is definitely a must for the 2.0T. I came from a 2005 Saabaru with the 2.0T and did a gutted uppipe, catted downpipe and accessport and it really was a different car. When I returned it mostly to stock to sell it I could really feel the difference. I ended up leaving uppipe in it when I sold it because it was such a pain in the rear end to get in there I didn't want to go get it out. I've still go the stock uppipe in the garage if anyone wants it for some reason you can have it for the price of shpping.
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Mar 22, 2011 03:41
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Wrar posted:I modded mine simply because I found the turbo response lacking. With the new tubing bits, it's like a different car. I actually have some low end power, which makes the car much more driveable. If I had the 2.5T instead of the 2.0 I might not have bothered with anything more than a reflash. I actually found the lack of response to be in fact an issue with the 2.5. Unless you kept the revs up on two slow corners, there just was nothing The big reason why I aint modding is that when I really DO get the most out of it, I'll truly know what is lacking (rather than reading spew on NASOIC) and will instead of getting 1:12 with mods I'll go 1:09 as the mods I do will go further AS WELL as I'll be not starting from 1:14 but 1:12 - If I make myself a better driver by two seconds, that frankly that is the best modification of all AND it gets the most out of the car mods I'll do in the future. Plus there is a factor of modding to overcome driving deficenices as alluded to. Who's the better driver, the person cutting 1:14 consistent laps in the bog stocker, or the person doing 1:12's with 100 more hp, suspension mods, bigger brakes, stickier tyres etc? The person with the quicker car doesnt have to drive as well, do they, so they never learn to wring every single drop of performance and never really understand how much they actually have in resernve. When do you learn to hold it flat if you have hp to cover up a liftoff?
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Mar 22, 2011 09:48
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nm posted:The 2.5 in all those years has a (very expensive) head gasket issue. The 2.2 is slow as poo poo but doesn't (neither does the h6) I was under the impression that if it hadn't been done already, all you need to do is replace the head gasket with the correct double-layered one and then it's fine? I'm mechanically inclined with a lot of spare time, and a roommate who owes me free labor because his wifes car repairs I'm doing/he's helping with is now in its 2nd week. As long as there's a fix for it I don't have a problem doing it.
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Mar 22, 2011 11:07
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Cat Terrist posted:The person with the quicker car doesnt have to drive as well, do they, I doubt they have as much fun or get as much satisfaction out of posting a quick time either. I think you have the correct approach.
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Mar 22, 2011 14:14
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My wife and I just bought a 2003 wrx wagon for her to drive. It came with a very loud obnoxious 3" exhaust consisting of an aftermarket downpipe, midpipe and muffler (I think this would be turboback?). A stock 2002 muffler and midpipe came with the car, but not the stock downpipe. The stock downpipe has a cat in it, right? Would there be much benefit to using the catless downpipe with the rest of the stock exhaust, or should I just find someone selling a stock downpipe?
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Mar 22, 2011 14:45
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dyne posted:My wife and I just bought a 2003 wrx wagon for her to drive. It came with a very loud obnoxious 3" exhaust consisting of an aftermarket downpipe, midpipe and muffler (I think this would be turboback?). A stock 2002 muffler and midpipe came with the car, but not the stock downpipe. The stock downpipe has a cat in it, right? Would there be much benefit to using the catless downpipe with the rest of the stock exhaust, or should I just find someone selling a stock downpipe? Do you know if the car was tuned for the exhaust setup? What you're describing is generally called Stage 2 (full turbo back with tune) and produces significantly more power than the stock car does. If you were to leave in the downpipe and go back to the stock cat back (midpipe + muffler) you would need to have the car re-tuned for that setup change. As for if the downpipe has a cat in it or not... You'd have to look at it. If you see an obvious bulge in the downpipe, then yes it does have a cat in it (or a lump where a cat used to be if it was gutted). If you can post a picture that'd give us a better idea of what's there and not there. I would suggest getting a quiet 3" exhaust like a Borla Hush or Maddad Whisper unless you want to put the car back to full stock (downpipe included).
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Mar 22, 2011 17:44
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I was pretty happy with my 3" DP with the stock exhaust (even more so with the STi axleback on it now). I'm not a big fan of noise, and the borla hush is significantly louder.
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Mar 22, 2011 19:43
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Blaise posted:I was pretty happy with my 3" DP with the stock exhaust (even more so with the STi axleback on it now). I'm not a big fan of noise, and the borla hush is significantly louder. The STI catback is worthless, as is the SPT. They're all pretty much the same and a waste of money as an 'upgrade'. You have to get a 3 inch exhaust to have any real performance gain. I'm debating on putting a fmic on my sti. i dyno'd it a few weeks ago and made 277/317 at the wheels. Tuner said that the stock tmic was really unable to keep up with the boost of the Cobb OTS stage 2 map.
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Mar 22, 2011 20:49
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Lando posted:The STI catback is worthless, as is the SPT. They're all pretty much the same and a waste of money as an 'upgrade'. You have to get a 3 inch exhaust to have any real performance gain. Where exactly are you getting this information from? The STi axleback increases the piping diameter and was designed for the STi, which after all does flow quite a bit more air. I'm not saying it's as good as a full 3", but I'm also not saying it's worthless because that would be illogical. I thought it was worth the $50-75 they go for (for the sound/looks if anything). Also, why is the SPT worthless?
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Mar 22, 2011 22:01
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Amandyke posted:Do you know if the car was tuned for the exhaust setup? What you're describing is generally called Stage 2 (full turbo back with tune) and produces significantly more power than the stock car does. If you were to leave in the downpipe and go back to the stock cat back (midpipe + muffler) you would need to have the car re-tuned for that setup change.
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Mar 22, 2011 23:23
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dyne posted:I don't believe there was a tune. I meant to ask if the stock downpipe had a cat. Since I already have the stock exhaust and the car hasn't been tuned for the aftermarket exhaust, I think I should keep it stock for now and find a stock downpipe. I wouldn't assume there wasn't a tune. If the guy went through the trouble and expense to get a full turbo back exhaust just for the noise...
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Mar 22, 2011 23:42
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I'm about to get rid of my 2.5rs before this vacation to Afghanistan next month but I wanted to make a short movie first. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Q_wgZ5lCDA
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Mar 22, 2011 23:43
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Amandyke posted:I wouldn't assume there wasn't a tune. If the guy went through the trouble and expense to get a full turbo back exhaust just for the noise...
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Mar 22, 2011 23:55
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Lando posted:The STI catback is worthless, as is the SPT. They're all pretty much the same and a waste of money as an 'upgrade'. You have to get a 3 inch exhaust to have any real performance gain. A bellmouth, 3" downpipe is really like 80-90% of the gains on a stage 2 car, so while you're not getting max gains out of the stock or spt catback they're still there. We recently had a 400whp car over at the dyno with a full 3" exhaust, and just taking the 02 sensor bracket out of the tailpipe picked up like 7whp. it was pretty funny actually.
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Mar 23, 2011 00:11
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Rontalvos posted:-Is the 3rd gen that much better than the second that it's worth spending a little extra on? I don't have a wagon, but I've got a Legacy GT Sedan from the year 2000 - 2.5 litre, no turbo, 5 speed. It gets about 520-550 kilometres a tank, mostly highway driving.
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Mar 23, 2011 01:11
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Cat Terrist posted:I actually found the lack of response to be in fact an issue with the 2.5. Unless you kept the revs up on two slow corners, there just was nothing Frankly I don't give a gently caress about track time right now or getting the most from me as a driver since I have no time or money to spend on track time.
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Mar 23, 2011 02:07
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WTF! why do non of the brake guides mention the ease of a 8mm bolt to pop the rotor, and instead all praise the almighty mallet? Had I known about the bolt 4 hours ago I would have had 4 brakes done instead of just 2.
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Mar 23, 2011 02:08
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God damnit. I ordered those kartboy outrigger bushings for my 98 wagon. It doesn't have the drat outrigger mount to put them in! Apparantly only the RS models had that. I swear, every car I buy isn't supported at all by the aftermarket. Anyone want to buy some bushing? they're these ones: http://www2.kartboy.com/x4/product.php?productid=16178&cat=260&page=3 they'll work on 2.5RS's and WRX's. $30 shipped.
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Mar 23, 2011 03:04
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Wrar posted:I understand your point fully, but from a daily driver standpoint the 2.5T and 2.0T is night and day in terms of low-end power. It's just not close, and it's a pain in the rear end sometimes. As someone who owns both a 2.0T and 2.5T, I couldn't agree more. Sometimes it's fun to have to rev the nuts off of the 2.0T to get to 2nd gear, other times it's just annoying. The 2.5T is just such a more livable engine and you can drive the car normally if you just feel like getting from point A to point B.
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Mar 23, 2011 06:20
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toplitzin posted:WTF! why do non of the brake guides mention the ease of a 8mm bolt to pop the rotor, and instead all praise the almighty mallet? Had I known about the bolt 4 hours ago I would have had 4 brakes done instead of just 2. Because they were written by morons I guess? I have two bolts specifically for this purpose in the toolbox.
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Mar 23, 2011 07:51
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What's the difference in the 96-99 and 2000+ generation legacies between the Legacy Outback, Legacy L, and Legacy GT? I'm finding L and GT's for sale a bit cheaper than the Outback, and it's a lot easier to find a used 5-speed L/GT than Outbacks. What're the big differences besides the lack of plastic cladding on the non-outbacks?
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Mar 23, 2011 11:37
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Cat Terrist posted:Because they were written by morons I guess? Explain please?
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Mar 23, 2011 19:21
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rotors have m8x1.25 threaded holes in them so you can screw in a bolt and pop it off the hub if they're stuck.
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Mar 23, 2011 19:29
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jamal posted:A bellmouth, 3" downpipe is really like 80-90% of the gains on a stage 2 car, so while you're not getting max gains out of the stock or spt catback they're still there. Thanks, this is what I thought was the case (and why I run a stock STi axleback and stock midpipe).
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Mar 23, 2011 19:45
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Lord Gaga posted:I am not sure why people would say that Subarus shouldn't have front mounts. Untuned Subarus shouldn't have front mounts because the MAF will read air before it gets to the throttle body (significantly longer than with a top mount), but this can be tuned around pretty easily. Unless it leaks out, air is air, and its been accounted for. The possibility of a large air density increase (cooler air at the same pressure) is what would necessitate a retune, nothing to do with length of intake tract.
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