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I was poking and prodding at the nut (no, I'm sure this isn't supposed to be in The Goon Doctor. Or Awkward Sexual Encounters). I recently installed some larger strings (.12-.54) and needed to file down the nut next time I changed strings because the E,A, and D strings weren't seated right. I guess I poked too hard on the E string and the corner of the nut snapped off.
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Mar 16, 2011 10:02
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| # ? May 16, 2024 08:55 |
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I'm not sure how to phrase this entirely and have no experience outside of standard tuning and out of tuning, but I have something I would like to try. To preface, I learned bass first and found I could play guitar a year or two ago also. I still get thrown off on the top two strings B and E as they to me inverse the patterns I had learned to move up in scale through playing bass. What I am interested in doing is trying to tune those two strings to follow the octave pattern of the first four. Is this a terrible idea or even an already named tuning? Edit: Found my own answer. Perfect Fourth tuning. mastur fucked around with this message at 20:32 on Mar 17, 2011 |
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Mar 17, 2011 20:20
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You mean tune your B to C and your E to F? I don't see why you couldn't play with it, it will make some chords difficult (including bar chords) but I guess it will let you stretch and get a couple of chord sounds you otherwise wouldn't be able to. It is a crutch though, and you won't be able to play another guitar properly without changing it to your tuning. Why not just focus some of your practice on learning scale patterns and how the octaves work up there? All you really have to worry about is playing notes on the B string one fret higher (e.g. a fifth above is 3 frets higher instead of 2), and the same on the E string if your start note is below the B string (so an octave with the root on the G string would be played 3 frets higher on the E string). Another way to look at it is if you move up across the G/B string divide you hop one fret higher, and one lower if you're going down. The B->E interval is the same as all the other strings, and it means the top and bottom strings are the same note too
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Mar 17, 2011 20:37
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To be honest I can't play chords. I mean, I know a few simple fret combinations that I can use wherever, I just kinda skipped to arpeggios and alt picking and soloing. I am skilled until you ask me to play chords and then I can only improvise for so long. (I am starting school to remedy this). It has always seemed like the natural progression for me would be perfect fourth tuning as the G-B divide always slips me up, typically moving back down in scale. I also falter when I want to jump from a fret on the first four strings to one on the B and E without playing the connecting notes in between. I can never anticipate properly as it fucks up my counting scheme and counting down from the high E is usually a bit to much in the heat of the moment. Gonna try it out soon, before I change my strings.
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Mar 17, 2011 20:50
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Honestly you'd be best learning your box patterns over all the strings, just so your fingers know their way around. If you learn the note names so you know exactly what you're trying to play, that's another way of approaching it, and you could practice things like octaves so you get familiar with intervals. The more directions you approach it from the more it all gels into a picture. But if nothing else, learn your scale patterns so you don't even have to think about it. And if you're actually going to school to learn to play, you really really want to stay in standard tuning - if you're using two slightly similar ones you'll end up making mistakes and second-guessing yourself, especially if you're struggling to deal with the strings now. I know that all sounds negative and people do have success doing their own thing, but I wouldn't want you to limit yourself and then be bound to that crutch, just because this one aspect of guitar seems like it could be made to fit a better pattern, y'know?
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Mar 17, 2011 21:23
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I appreciate standard tuning, especially on bass. It always pisses me off when a friend drop tunes my guitar (now I have multiple guitars, not an issue). It's highly unlikely I'll adopt as most of the stuff I play use standard tuning, but it is an idea that has always intrigued me and I'm excited to try it out and then get turned off.
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Mar 17, 2011 21:54
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tune those to C and F then strum the guitar open and you'll see why people keep them where they are. The D B and G strings form a G major triad that you barre in a lot of chords, and strings G B and E form a minor triad with the same usefulnes.
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Mar 18, 2011 00:32
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My 12-string needs more jangle. What's the...how shall I say this...harshest compressor on the market? edit: what I mean is the opposite of subtlety spiritual bypass fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Mar 18, 2011 |
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Mar 18, 2011 01:23
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Get a pedal and break it. I have a Crybaby with some blown circuitry or something and when you plug it in it sounds like a demon blowing steam out of his rear end it is so cool.
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Mar 18, 2011 03:33
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mastur posted:I appreciate standard tuning, especially on bass. It always pisses me off when a friend drop tunes my guitar (now I have multiple guitars, not an issue). Go for it. The worst that happens is that you don't like it and change it back.
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Mar 18, 2011 07:30
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So I'm eagerly awaiting my first electric guitar (an AL-3100, which I decided on after reading this entire thread and then wasting work breaks researching online reviews). Super psyched, but now I am shopping for a used amp and find myself unsure. Would I be okay with either a Peavey Envoy 110 or a Peavy Rage 158? And on a related note, if I get impatient waiting for my practice amp and run an electric guitar through my bass amp, will that damage the amp?
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Mar 20, 2011 02:16
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Nah, that's safe, but don't try it the other way around!
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Mar 20, 2011 02:19
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ibntumart posted:So I'm eagerly awaiting my first electric guitar (an AL-3100, which I decided on after reading this entire thread and then wasting work breaks researching online reviews). Super psyched, but now I am shopping for a used amp and find myself unsure. Would I be okay with either a Peavey Envoy 110 or a Peavy Rage 158? Totally safe and bass amps usually deliver incredible cleans.
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Mar 20, 2011 02:22
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It is possible to play bass through a guitar amp if the volume is really low and the lows turned down. Still not recommended.
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Mar 20, 2011 23:30
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ibntumart posted:So I'm eagerly awaiting my first electric guitar (an AL-3100, which I decided on after reading this entire thread and then wasting work breaks researching online reviews). Super psyched, but now I am shopping for a used amp and find myself unsure. Would I be okay with either a Peavey Envoy 110 or a Peavy Rage 158? I played my electric on my bass amp for years. Mine had a high and low frequency input on it and plugging it into the high it sounded just fine. I had to change the equalizer and tone knobs around a crapload to get the sound I wanted out of both of them, but it worked fine. I've played bass through a guitar amp too, but only at low volume. When I took bass lessons the instructor just used a guitar amp that we plugged into, but that was definitely at quiet volume. I wouldn't recommend playing at anything over say a 3 or 4 out of 10 volume.
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Mar 21, 2011 21:30
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I came across these videos demonstrating the sounds you can get from different woods and quality. I thought I'd share them in case anyone wants to test their ears. There will of course be sound quality issues because they are YouTube videos, but I think you can still hear a different character to them. Here's a demo of different steel strings. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yNWl63e5lZw Here are demos of classical guitars. I can really tell the difference between laminated woods and solid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hqgugtUAn8k http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHQgCtHky44 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88-dUu7xTKw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rQ64LTThbM http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EW_12DbMzpI http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DHvn3nZ-9w http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kq3jWJKg9e8
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Mar 23, 2011 02:37
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I want to get rid of the muddy humbuckers in my Viking and replace them with something bright and Strat-like. Does anyone have suggestions for two pickups I should put into my standard sized humbucker slots to achieve that sort of sound?
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Mar 23, 2011 18:57
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You could just have the coils tapped, which means you'll be able to turn off half the humbucker with a switch or push/pull on the tone knob. Probably cost less than new pickups, and you'll get a nifty new switch out of it. If that doesn't sound good, P90s are about humbucker size and are a little brighter.
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Mar 23, 2011 19:30
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I just used it as an excuse to go buy a strat a few months back. Goodbye tax return.
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Mar 24, 2011 06:17
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rt4 posted:Does anyone have suggestions for two pickups I should put into my standard sized humbucker slots to achieve that sort of sound? http://store.guitarfetish.com/Mean-90-Gloss-Black-TRUE-Alnico-P90-FAT-and-Loud-_c_132.html This one'll fit right in the humbucker slot. Or would you like a frankencaster sound? http://store.guitarfetish.com/VEH-Vintage-Extra-Hot-WHITE-coils-The-Brown-Sound-_c_165.html I also agree with the idea about building a coil tap.
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Mar 24, 2011 16:13
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I just wanted to share that I hate the position 1 F chord. It makes me want to strange a kitten.
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Mar 24, 2011 22:47
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crm posted:I just wanted to share that I hate the position 1 F chord. It makes me want to strange a kitten. Just do G and A barre, then come back to F. It really doesn't come up that often, and when it does, you likely won't need to hold it for long.
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Mar 25, 2011 02:15
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CalvinDooglas posted:Just do G and A barre, then come back to F. It really doesn't come up that often, and when it does, you likely won't need to hold it for long. Counterpoint: Man up and get used to that first barre because you'll eventually want to use it. Took a month of sore fingers and hand cramps for me to finally get it but I have no regrets.
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Mar 25, 2011 02:19
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my teacher has me going through C/F/G chord progressions, so there's no getting out of it.seigfox posted:Counterpoint: Man up and get used to that first barre because you'll eventually want to use it. Took a month of sore fingers and hand cramps for me to finally get it but I have no regrets. I'm feeling your pain. Quite literally. crm fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Mar 25, 2011 |
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Mar 25, 2011 04:42
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Well if you gotta do it you gotta do it. Do this: Fret the whole barre chord: 133211 then remove everything but the barre: 1xxx11 How many strings does your index finger actually need to press on? Only those three. Don't waste energy barring the other strings because your other fingers are pressing down there. Practice that 1xxx11 on other frets and then press down on the middle three strings.
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Mar 25, 2011 04:53
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crm posted:my teacher has me going through C/F/G chord progressions, so there's no getting out of it. I can't be the only guy who plays Fs as essentially a modified C shape with x33211, can I? VVVVV Yeah, if there are other barres I'll just do it "properly," but I'm still a pretty big sissy. Manky fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Mar 25, 2011 |
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Mar 25, 2011 05:28
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Manky posted:I can't be the only guy who plays Fs as essentially a modified C shape with x33211, can I? Depending on what I'm playing, I often do you one better and just play xx3211, unless the song has other barres.
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Mar 25, 2011 05:29
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Manky posted:I can't be the only guy who plays Fs as essentially a modified C shape with x33211, can I? You could think of that as a C chord shape moved over a string (and thus up a perfect 4th, which is of course F), but it's also good to visualize is as a "daughter" of the full barre chord. The only thing you're leaving out is the bass note F on the 6th string. It's worth noting that the shape you show is a second inversion F major shape, or F/C. Obviously, it works really well transitioning to or from a C chord.
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Mar 25, 2011 10:44
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Manky posted:I can't be the only guy who plays Fs as essentially a modified C shape with x33211, can I? If you're feeling confident, you could fret the bottom E-string with your thumb.
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Mar 25, 2011 12:21
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Alexander the Grape posted:You could think of that as a C chord shape moved over a string (and thus up a perfect 4th, which is of course F), but it's also good to visualize is as a "daughter" of the full barre chord. The only thing you're leaving out is the bass note F on the 6th string. Yeah, I know most of that from the Theory courses I've taken. But I love how you explain it, it makes some connections for me that for some reason I just never really put together - I knew it was a second inversion F, but I didn't think about why that sounded good. Nuclear Spoon posted:If you're feeling confident, you could fret the bottom E-string with your thumb. Also can't believe I didn't think of this. I've been trying to use my thumb a lot more recently, I'll have to start throwing that in there.
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Mar 25, 2011 12:47
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Anyone got a recommendation for a good half-scale guitar? Co-worker's kid wants to learn to play, and he's teeny.
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Mar 25, 2011 16:36
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I would like to update and say that perfect fourth tuning is the poo poo! It was like someone slid the fretboard into the proper place.
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Mar 26, 2011 01:17
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Not new to guitar, but I guess this is the place to ask - what are some good Open G tuning songs to learn? The only one I know is "Death Letter," the Son House version, and I love vamping on it, but I'd like to learn a few more. I think Robert Johnson had a few tunes in G and I'm going to try those next. Any albums, artists or sites I should check out?
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Mar 26, 2011 20:11
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Are there any tricks to doing barre chords in the shape of 13331? It always trips me up when I'm switching chords quickly, and I can't find a way to reliably use only one or two fingers to press on the lower frets.
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Mar 27, 2011 03:47
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404notfound posted:Are there any tricks to doing barre chords in the shape of 13331? It always trips me up when I'm switching chords quickly, and I can't find a way to reliably use only one or two fingers to press on the lower frets. I fret with my index finger immediately behind the 1 fret, curled back, with my ring finger barring the 3 fret so that the first segment forms the bar, and it is bent back immediately at the first segment. If I'm at all sloppy I frequently end up muting the 2nd string, but it's not very important. Stricter technique and it rings clearly again. I can fret the chord a few other ways but they're all incredibly awkward and I would almost never use them. Getting partial bars on the non-index fingers is a very useful thing to be able to do. For example my favorite voicing of G7b9b13 is 323444, using the pinkie finger to get the upper 3 strings.
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Mar 27, 2011 09:39
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404notfound posted:Are there any tricks to doing barre chords in the shape of 13331? It always trips me up when I'm switching chords quickly, and I can't find a way to reliably use only one or two fingers to press on the lower frets. I just barre with my index (you only need to worry about the upper and lower strings of course) and fret the block of three with my pinky. I can't do it with my ring finger without muting the high E. Switching fast is a matter of practice but this one works for me. You can also do it with the ring finger or use all three spare fingers, which can be convenient for switching to minor/maj7/sus2/7th etc (all your open A chord variations basically)
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Mar 27, 2011 17:59
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Went to local guitar shop thinking I'd buy a Seagull S6, but came out with a used Seagull Maritime. It was cheaper than the S6, all solid wood, came with a case, and seems in good shape for a used guitar. Now I'm curious what year the guitar is from. The downside to today was putting on new strings. It was my first time with steel strings, and it got frustrating. I'm not sure if the peg for the low E is sitting right. Unfortunately I didn't check how it sat before I removed the previous string. I did show it to a guitar tech, and he thought it looked fine, but he's not a tech I have the most trust in. Here's a couple pictures showing how the peg is sitting a bit higher than the others.   I was able to find a small mirror and look at the ball end inside the guitar. It's sitting right up against the top like the others, so maybe it's okay. An unrelated point: the cheap yellow string winders from Jim Dunlop leave plastic dust on the machine heads. I recommend lining the winder with tissue paper or something similar.
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Mar 28, 2011 02:39
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It's fine. Next time you restring, though, try to hold the peg down firmly until it gets up to tension. If you're particular about your guitar you can always slacken the string and try to re-seat the peg.
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Mar 28, 2011 02:59
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that Vai sound posted:Went to local guitar shop thinking I'd buy a Seagull S6, but came out with a used Seagull Maritime. It was cheaper than the S6, all solid wood, came with a case, and seems in good shape for a used guitar. Now I'm curious what year the guitar is from. What's the serial number on your guitar? Godin has a system where the general date the guitar was made is built into the serial. If the serial number contains 8 digits you can enter the number here to get some information: http://www.guitardating.com/godin.php If your serial number contains 12 digits, the system goes thusly: the first six digits are a model number, and the last six digits represent the year and the sequential number of the guitar as it was built. So, one of my Seagulls has a serial number of 029839001596, which means 029839 is the model number and 001596 means the first "0" for 2010 and 1596 meaning it was the 1596th guitar produced in that year. As explained here: http://seagullguitars.net/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=57
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Mar 28, 2011 06:16
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| # ? May 16, 2024 08:55 |
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How good are MiM strats nowadays? I've been playing a pretty bad Tokai strat made in Korea for a couple years now and while I also have a decent acoustic, the strat is really starting to frustrate me and I want something new but on a budget.
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Mar 28, 2011 13:07
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