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Tremblay posted:Explain please? As Jamal said, two holes on the rotor hat for the exact purpose of removing the rotor if it doesnt come off easily. There's no need for Vogon Engineering
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Mar 23, 2011 21:36
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Cat Terrist posted:As Jamal said, two holes on the rotor hat for the exact purpose of removing the rotor if it doesnt come off easily. There's no need for Vogon Engineering Just keep threading them through and the bolt ends push against the hub? Niffty.
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Mar 24, 2011 03:14
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Tremblay posted:Just keep threading them through and the bolt ends push against the hub? Niffty. DO NOT use the bolts that hold your calipers on the assembly. They'll thread... but you'll fck them up 
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Mar 24, 2011 07:29
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don't use any of the actual bolts on the car for this. You'll likely mess up the end of it if they're really stuck on. I anti-seize the crap out of them too.
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Mar 24, 2011 07:33
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jamal posted:don't use any of the actual bolts on the car for this. You'll likely mess up the end of it if they're really stuck on. I anti-seize the crap out of them too. Yup got that from CT's comments. Thanks, nice trick.
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Mar 24, 2011 16:51
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It turned out that I wasn't looking far enough forward on the car for the diff outrigger mounts. I installed the bushings and there was no difference. They didn't reduce the clunk at all. After installing them I'm not really sure how they would do anything at all. So they were still waste of $32.
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Mar 25, 2011 00:08
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All done! Having that bolt made it so much easier. I was done with the other two wheels in one hour instead of 4 miserable ones. Dropping it off at my local mechanic tonight so he can change out the bolt gaskets. gently caress having the performance shop I found do it. They quoted me $342 parts and labor. I got the set of 16 gaskets from the dealer for $48 and They guy round the corner who I've used for 20+ years was like, thats an hour and a half labor do to the valve cover gaskets themselves. For the bolts lets call it $150. As far as having them do the pipes and tune, I think I will just meet up with Wrar in Miami sometime and use his brain/tools and tactrix cable. Otherwise its another $1000 for one step colder plugs, labor, and a dyno tune.
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Mar 25, 2011 00:25
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Yeah gently caress that I'll come up and we'll make a weekend of it.
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Mar 25, 2011 01:08
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Found a group buy on NASIOC for a kartboy 5mt shifter and a set of aftermarket bushings. Anyone have any experience with the kartboy? I don't see how it could really go wrong but who knows.
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Mar 25, 2011 07:09
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NinjaTech posted:It turned out that I wasn't looking far enough forward on the car for the diff outrigger mounts. I installed the bushings and there was no difference. They didn't reduce the clunk at all. After installing them I'm not really sure how they would do anything at all. So they were still waste of $32. Whiteline makes the bushings that press into your rear diff carrier subframe that hold up the diff. I need some for my wagon soon.
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Mar 25, 2011 08:26
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Danger Doug posted:Found a group buy on NASIOC for a kartboy 5mt shifter and a set of aftermarket bushings. Anyone have any experience with the kartboy? I don't see how it could really go wrong but who knows. the turn in concepts group buy? yes get on that. TiC and kartboy are some of the best guys around and my kartboy short shifter get here tomorrow. Clint from tic had his appendix removed today and I sent him a personalized paul walker get well soon card. I've been sending a lot of those out- Myles at racecomp engineering got one that said "see you at race wars." jamal fucked around with this message at 08:37 on Mar 25, 2011 |
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Mar 25, 2011 08:33
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Wrar posted:Yeah gently caress that I'll come up and we'll make a weekend of it. If the up/down + reflash is an afternoon job, I'll be in Ft. Lauderdale in 3 weeks for the Iron Maiden show at the Bank Atlantic Center. Get together for/after breakfast with friends on Sunday and take the turnpike home with a new exhaust and more POWA!?!?!?!?!?
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Mar 25, 2011 12:54
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jamal posted:the turn in concepts group buy? yes get on that. TiC and kartboy are some of the best guys around and my kartboy short shifter get here tomorrow. Well that's great to hear! TiC seemed really enthusiastic and happy to talk about their product. Now just to find someone that isn't a dipshit to install it that won't gently caress up my interior. And sorry for the ambiguity, just paranoid about coming across as advertising.
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Mar 25, 2011 14:54
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jamal posted:Clint from tic had his appendix removed today and I sent him a personalized paul walker get well soon card. I've been sending a lot of those out- Myles at racecomp engineering got one that said "see you at race wars."
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Mar 25, 2011 15:13
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I turned my 06 Impreza Outback sport into a dealership for the 60k scheduled maintenance and they said they had to redo the front brakes as the pads were below 3 mm, they also machined the rotors. I get my car back yesterday and today get on the highway for my eight hour road trip south and notice when braking from anything above 50 mph, the car shudders and the brakes sort of bump or jerk for lack of a better word. OK rotors are probably eccentric. I return my car back to the dealership, they re-machine the rotors, and they say the problem still exists, they don't know what it is either. Anyone have any ideas? Also what seems reasonable to ask for in terms of compensation for this? I didn't ask them to work on the brakes at all they did it on their own. And you would think they would check that stuff out during the 60k maintenance...? Especially when they say their lathe has done this before... Brake job cost $370 and 60k maintenance cost $690 if that makes any difference. I was also supposed to be eight hours south by now so I could try and pick up a job out of the union hall, which I'll now miss. Sorry if that's too E/N but I'm getting really tired of dealerships and horrible service. Fish Shalami fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Mar 25, 2011 |
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Mar 25, 2011 21:16
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Danger Doug posted:Now just to find someone that isn't a dipshit to install it that won't gently caress up my interior. And sorry for the ambiguity, just paranoid about coming across as advertising.
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Mar 25, 2011 21:34
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jamal posted:where are you? I can probably recommend a shop San Antonio, Texas. I'd greatly appreciate it, since I know less than jack poo poo and can see myself getting way over my head. Thanks Jamal
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Mar 25, 2011 21:57
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Danger Doug posted:San Antonio, Texas. I'd greatly appreciate it, since I know less than jack poo poo and can see myself getting way over my head. Thanks Jamal There's Cobb in Austin if you're willing to make the drive. Tell Billy I said hi if you go. Pro rallycross practice is on espn3.com right now. A subaru just rolled about 3 times after not making the jump jamal fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Mar 25, 2011 |
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Mar 25, 2011 23:03
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Sockington posted:Whiteline makes the bushings that press into your rear diff carrier subframe that hold up the diff. Yeah, the problem with that is it will take me out of H stock. Technically with the bushings I just installed, that seemingly do nothing, make me a cheater. I just need to get a price list of all the stock rubber bushings I need to replace. It's too bad all these OEM parts sites suck rear end.
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Mar 26, 2011 01:06
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http://www.rallispec.com/prod_chart_stibush2.htm
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Mar 26, 2011 01:20
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I can't use Group N bushings either since they're harder than stock. Which sucks since I'd rather spend money on those. The only bushings that don't have to be stock are sway bar bushings. I can also change end links. NinjaTech fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Mar 26, 2011 |
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Mar 26, 2011 01:39
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How would they know if you're running different bushings in the car?
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Mar 26, 2011 02:06
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Well I suppose they wouldn't be able to tell with the Group N's. But if I got disputed I would lose and get penalized. This would most likely only happen at a national tour event though.
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Mar 26, 2011 02:16
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NinjaTech posted:Well I suppose they wouldn't be able to tell with the Group N's. But if I got disputed I would lose and get penalized. This would most likely only happen at a national tour event though. Modifying your car to fit their rules is poo poo. If it's your daily/toy, and you aren't seeking National level SCCA poo poo, then just swap the bushings and go on with it. Not being able to fix an "issue" with your car because your worried about changing class? That's retarded. Just keep quiet and tell them they are new OEM bushings if someone pokes their nose. It's not like you're painting a set of coilovers flat black to hide them in your wheel wells. The real performance gain is that you no longer have worn out stock bushings - I'm sure the slight difference of New OEM vs. New Group N would be a lot less than it is now with your older (toasted) bushings.
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Mar 26, 2011 14:23
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I'm looking for some ideas. I have excellent connections (my spouse) into the regional Subaru dealerships. If I wanted to pick up a an 8 to 15 year old Subaru to fix up, what should I pick? Something like a 1998 RS?
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Mar 26, 2011 15:51
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jamal posted:There's Cobb in Austin if you're willing to make the drive. Tell Billy I said hi if you go. I'll give them a call to see if I can get a quote. Thanks again!
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Mar 26, 2011 17:34
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daslog posted:I'm looking for some ideas. I have excellent connections (my spouse) into the regional Subaru dealerships. If I wanted to pick up a an 8 to 15 year old Subaru to fix up, what should I pick? Something like a 1998 RS? The 2.5 RS is awesome. Any of the coupe versions at least. Or if you want a 90s, the 1998 22B STI. Both are pretty rare, but awesome cars.
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Mar 26, 2011 18:36
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Danger Doug posted:Found a group buy on NASIOC for a kartboy 5mt shifter and a set of aftermarket bushings. Anyone have any experience with the kartboy? I don't see how it could really go wrong but who knows. I installed the Kartboy SS kit with the front and rear bushings. It is an improvement but not as drastic as I heard it would be. Kind of pricey is you ask me. I feel like the rear Kartboy bushing raised the linkage or altered the geometry slightly. The self-locking nut for the front bushing is part# 023508000. I would replace that if you install the front Kartboy or any bushings in that spot. I will echo that the Tony's and Clint at TIC are awesome. So is Tom at Kartboy. Any of those guys are very vocal and helpful if issues arise.
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Mar 26, 2011 20:35
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Sockington posted:Modifying your car to fit their rules is poo poo. If it's your daily/toy, and you aren't seeking National level SCCA poo poo, then just swap the bushings and go on with it. Not being able to fix an "issue" with your car because your worried about changing class? That's retarded. Just keep quiet and tell them they are new OEM bushings if someone pokes their nose. It's not like you're painting a set of coilovers flat black to hide them in your wheel wells. This a thousand times. If anyone protests you over a stupid bushing they're a sperglord parkinglot warrior with nothing better to do. Build the car you want unless you're super duper into autox and participate in nationals, etc etc. daslog posted:I'm looking for some ideas. I have excellent connections (my spouse) into the regional Subaru dealerships. If I wanted to pick up a an 8 to 15 year old Subaru to fix up, what should I pick? Something like a 1998 RS? RS's own. If you can, find a 2000 or 2001. They have limited slip rear ends  You'll have to do headgaskets on them if they haven't been done already. (((k))) posted:I installed the Kartboy SS kit with the front and rear bushings. It is an improvement but not as drastic as I heard it would be. Kind of pricey is you ask me. I feel like the rear Kartboy bushing raised the linkage or altered the geometry slightly. The self-locking nut for the front bushing is part# 023508000. I would replace that if you install the front Kartboy or any bushings in that spot. I literally just put my kartboy rear bushing on today while working on my car. I agree that it feels weird, but definitely more solid. And yes, TiC owns so hard. I got army dudes in my order!
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Mar 27, 2011 01:22
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Slow is Fast posted:And yes, TiC owns so hard. I got army dudes in my order! Speaking of, what's the deal with the Whiteline endlinks? I need to change out my front endlinks for sedan links in order to use my GC aluminum control arms and both of my usual parts sources stopped carrying them a little while ago and only carry Kartboy units (even though they still have a wide range of other Whiteline stuff). I assume it's because the Kartboy endlinks are much cheaper. Are the Kartboy links just as good?
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Mar 27, 2011 01:39
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Slow is Fast posted:This a thousand times. If anyone protests you over a stupid bushing they're a sperglord parkinglot warrior with nothing better to do. Build the car you want unless you're super duper into autox and participate in nationals, etc etc. Well I'd like to go to at the washington national tour and maybe pro solo this season. I think I might just go with the group N bushings since I don't think anyone will protest me. They're also cheaper than the stock bushings. I also go an army guy with my TiC order. Mine is a Bazooka guy, what did you get?
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Mar 27, 2011 01:57
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Wondering if anyone here might be able to point me in the right direction. I have a 96 legacy gt wagon (crappy edition). It's making a wump wump wump noise in the front left. It gets louder the faster I go and mostly goes away when turning left of center. I thought it was an out of balanced tire when my snow tires were on. I had my all seasons put on and that didn't fix it. The cv joint had a torn boot. I just changed it thinking it was the problem and that didn't do anything except cost $70 and waste my Saturday. I changed the brake caliper last year and it's connected tight still. What would a bad wheel bearing do? I really hope it's not something in the front diff. I can't quite pinpoint what's doing it.
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Mar 27, 2011 02:02
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Slow is Fast posted:sperglord parkinglot warrior with nothing better to do. speaking of this, a guy driving an evo came in to my work the other day and told me i shouldn't own a wrx because i haven't done a track day at mid-ohio.he also had to mention that he has a closet full of trophies. sorry for the derail thats just the perfect description for the guy i encountered.
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Mar 27, 2011 02:11
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Sort of a stupid question, So after installing a SYMS ELH on my Twin Turbo Legacy (effectively turning it into a parallel set up with 2 tiny VF's at about 13 psi split between both and downplaying the role of the stupid vacuum hose storm from hell), how big should my downpipe set up be? I want to quicken up spool, if I keep the standard dpipes and just remove the cat, will I maintain the current spool speed, or will a custom made 2.5' downpipe help at all in that deparment? I'm not looking for more high end power, just better spool... Car has a tuned ECU for 91 octane from Japan. Also, is it safe to use the perrin lighten crank pulley as strung as my engine is?
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Mar 27, 2011 02:58
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NinjaTech posted:I also go an army guy with my TiC order. Mine is a Bazooka guy, what did you get?  Grenade Guy and Machine Gun Guy! 
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Mar 27, 2011 03:02
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daslog posted:I'm looking for some ideas. I have excellent connections (my spouse) into the regional Subaru dealerships. If I wanted to pick up a an 8 to 15 year old Subaru to fix up, what should I pick? Something like a 1998 RS? If you want one in that bodystyle, I'd only get a '00 or '01. Mainly due to the engine. The '99 is nice but it was a weird year and the '98 was a DOHC motor.
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Mar 27, 2011 03:13
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c355n4 posted:If you want one in that bodystyle, I'd only get a '00 or '01. Mainly due to the engine. The '99 is nice but it was a weird year and the '98 was a DOHC motor. What's wrong with their DOHC?
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Mar 27, 2011 03:46
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daslog posted:What's wrong with their DOHC?
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Mar 27, 2011 04:04
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Fish Shalami posted:Also what seems reasonable to ask for in terms of compensation for this? I didn't ask them to work on the brakes at all they did it on their own. That sounds exactly like warped rotors. What would be reasonable? BRAND NEW ROTORS.
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Mar 27, 2011 04:42
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| # ? May 12, 2024 13:48 |
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speaking of turn in concepts, that's where I got this sweet kartboy short shifter: and they sent me four army men.
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Mar 27, 2011 06:33
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