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Seat Safety Switch posted:Speaking of, what's the deal with the Whiteline endlinks? I need to change out my front endlinks for sedan links in order to use my GC aluminum control arms and both of my usual parts sources stopped carrying them a little while ago and only carry Kartboy units (even though they still have a wide range of other Whiteline stuff). I assume it's because the Kartboy endlinks are much cheaper. Are the Kartboy links just as good? I have the Kartboys on my 09 WRX. Whiteline offers a few different designs like the spherical, which for a DD I have heard negative things. I like the solid KBs, they are really well made. The rears would contact the lower spring perch when I had the car on stands. Just barely and the that is my only complaint for front or rear.
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Mar 27, 2011 06:58
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| # ? May 13, 2024 05:20 |
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I had a 2001 2.5RS and it was suppose to be the best year. SOHC and it had the map sensed ecu. It made a slight amount of horsepower over the DOHC motor but was much simpler. I took 2nd place in my class for the season that I had it. I miss that car but I couldn't afford it on minimum wage and my commute. The guy I bought it from would get time of day or close to it at autocross and continually fastest at rallycross with it being being stock aside from coilovers.
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Mar 27, 2011 07:42
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NinjaTech posted:I can't use Group N bushings either since they're harder than stock. Which sucks since I'd rather spend money on those.
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Mar 27, 2011 08:40
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dyne posted:The DOHC engine was the major offender for the headgasket problem Is that that only reason? It's pretty easy to fix...
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Mar 27, 2011 19:10
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nm posted:Per 13.8(c): Suspension bushings can be changed, they just be the same material and dimensions. Different material is tricky but my understanding is that it is designed to prevent people from using more metal. Hardness is not an issue. section 13: Alternate components which are normally expendable and considered replacement parts (e.g., engine and wheel bearings, seals, gaskets, filters, belts, bolts, bulbs, batteries, brake rotors, clutch discs, pressure plates, suspension bushings, drivetrain mounts, fenders, trim pieces, etc.) may be used provided they are essentially identical to the standard parts (e.g. have the same type, size, hardness, weight, material etc.), are used in the same location, and provide no performance benefit.
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Mar 28, 2011 03:39
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Well someone would have to get under the car, take stuff apart, and physically test the hardness to tell. They use the same molds so group n parts even have the same part numbers as stock on the rubber. If you were competing at a national level it might matter
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Mar 28, 2011 04:02
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Yeah if I was a better driver it would matter more. I think I'm just going to go for the Group N stuff, starting with the rear first. I also need to get an alignment pretty badly. It's got way too much understeer for my liking with the stock alignment.
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Mar 28, 2011 04:11
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NinjaTech posted:section 13: Alternate components which are normally expendable and considered Those rules are for all parts not explicitly mentioned. The stock rules mention suspension bushings. I suspect the e.g is from an old rule section they're not great at cleaning up the rules.
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Mar 28, 2011 07:42
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Rules are meant to be broken. If they cant find it, you aint cheating 
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Mar 28, 2011 08:05
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Discovered that my stock intake box wasn't properly reinstalled by the PO. Going to replace it with a Short Ram Intake instead of sourcing all the missing hardware. Is a tune required for the SRI?
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Mar 28, 2011 12:15
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JayKay posted:Discovered that my stock intake box wasn't properly reinstalled by the PO. Going to replace it with a Short Ram Intake instead of sourcing all the missing hardware. Is a tune required for the SRI? Yeah, you need to tune with a wideband AFR for all intakes. I would suggest reinstalling the OEM airbox; my tuner was starting to do a comparo of a lot of the available aftermarket intakes (at our exceptionally elevated altitude) before his transmission let go, but early indications were that the stock airbox (potentially with no snorkus) was pretty close to the best. Intake trumpets Air flow tuning for the K&N SRI GPMoto elbow vs. stock snorkus on stock airbox STI Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Mar 29, 2011 |
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Mar 28, 2011 16:08
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NinjaTech posted:Yeah if I was a better driver it would matter more. I think I'm just going to go for the Group N stuff, starting with the rear first. I also need to get an alignment pretty badly. It's got way too much understeer for my liking with the stock alignment. Are you within tenths of a seconds lap time of the leaders? If you were, maybe I would consider that cheating as there may be slight enough chance it could give you an advantage. Even so, I'm sure there are a million other little asinine things that could be argued give you an advantage. But otherwise, who cares. Have fun. Also, I want a Race Wars post card.
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Mar 28, 2011 20:29
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nm posted:Yes, but the above section overrides that. So since they're both made out of rubber it's fine? I guess I wont feel too bad about it as long as I'm not using poly bushings.
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Mar 28, 2011 20:48
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NinjaTech posted:So since they're both made out of rubber it's fine? I guess I wont feel too bad about it as long as I'm not using poly bushings.
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Mar 29, 2011 00:09
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Small question here. Ive got a 2004 forester xt mt. I had an v1 accessport, and was running the base tune for a stock, zero mods car. I just got broken into, and they stole my accessport. Ive found a replacement on ebay, the guy had it for a 06 wrx mt. So, can I just buy that and use it with no problems? Im pretty sure itll work with my car normally, but wasnt sure if having the previous accessport installed on it would cause problems. Thanks!
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Mar 29, 2011 00:58
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Call AP and ask for a discount and see what they say.
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Mar 29, 2011 01:05
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Err well I bought the last one used, too. Dont think theyll give me a discount.
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Mar 29, 2011 01:12
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Yeah, you need to tune with a wideband AFR for all intakes. I would suggest reinstalling the OEM airbox; my tuner was starting to do a comparo of a lot of the available aftermarket intakes (at our exceptionally elevated altitude) before his transmission let go, but early indications were that the stock airbox (potentially with an elbow instead of the snorkus) was pretty close to the best. Yeah I still have the stock installed. I also realize that for my uses, a SRI is overkill as the stock is more than enough but I figured it'd be cheaper to get a used TurboXS from a buddy instead of going through the hassle of finding all the missing parts. I thought since it had the stock MAF housing size, I wouldn't have to worry too much about tuning. Not a big deal since I was planning on cleaning the MAF and toying with the ECU with my VAGCOM cable anyways.
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Mar 29, 2011 01:20
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daslog posted:Is that that only reason? It's pretty easy to fix... The DOHC motor (EJ25D) had less torque, no rear LSD, a different front bumper which I don't think looks as nice, and only came in coupe. Since it was the only year for that engine, finding parts for it may be more difficult. I would say definitely hunt for a '00/'01 which are the same except for some interior detailing I believe. If you can't find one of those (it can take a while to find one at the right price) go for a '99, which just lacks the rear LSD. It's a viscous coupling unit anyways, which loses it's effectiveness when you drive the car hard.
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Mar 29, 2011 01:37
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Hey Subaru dudes. I recently finished my FXT trans swap into my RS. The one thing I didn't consider is the gear ratio change which messed up my speedometer. Can I just pull the sensor thing out of my old box and put it in the new box and have it work magically? I thought they didn't come out of the gearbox, but apparently they do. Any other route I should take instead? 
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Mar 29, 2011 02:23
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some turbos came for our race car today. Garrett's new billet wheel is pretty nice:
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Mar 29, 2011 07:47
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Slow is Fast posted:Hey Subaru dudes. Just going to quote myself to ask more questions along with this first one. I've finished my swap and have these issues:
Any insight into these issues would be awesome! I plan to poke around the car more tomorrow, but at this point I have no direction to go in. Slow is Fast fucked around with this message at 00:03 on Mar 30, 2011 |
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Mar 30, 2011 00:01
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What precisely do you mean the electrical system will shut down? What symptoms are you experiencing? I would recommend looking for any unconnected spade or any other kind of plugs that ground to the transmission. My Mazda had one I missed and without it lots of strange things happened. For Bosch and NTK I think the sensors usually go with the heater element as white, black ground and grey signal. I haven't pulled apart an oxygen sensor like that though so I wouldn't know how to figure out what goes where. Be careful, you don't want to cross ground and positive of course. Let us know if a manufacturer is stamped on it.
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Mar 30, 2011 04:58
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Slow is Fast posted:morrow. Sometimes when you have the battery disconnected for a while they tend to 'forget' what their idle is supposed to be at and stall when to clutch in and take all the load off the engine. Clean the throttlebody and idle speed controller and should sort itself out after a bit of driving. Slow is Fast posted:[*]Third. Whirring sound from the drivetrain. More notable on decel I can't figure out if something is off, or if it's a natural side effect from all the bushings and mounts I've thrown at the car. (Group N motor and trans, every single TiC bushing) I tried listening for if it's front or back, but my hearing is ROYALLY messed up, so I can't really tell. Slow is Fast posted:
If changing the sensor doesn't work their are electronic modules and kits out there to modulate the signal from the gearbox so you can get the right reading on the dash.
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Mar 30, 2011 11:41
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Running into an issue here ('02 WRX): My wideband O2 sensor is spliced off of the switched power to my clock. Whenever it's on, I get feedback into the radio (high pitched). It's not too loud but annoying enough. I tried putting a diode in (tried it on the power, ground, and both) but I keep getting the feedback. If I power the gauge off the battery directly, it goes away. Any hints? Should I just make my peace with the fact that I need to wire it down into the fusebox?
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Mar 30, 2011 15:33
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ChunksNensja posted:Sometimes when you have the battery disconnected for a while they tend to 'forget' what their idle is supposed to be at and stall when to clutch in and take all the load off the engine. Clean the throttlebody and idle speed controller and should sort itself out after a bit of driving. Thanks! I forgot about how I had the batt disconnected for two months... that may be why it's running funky. Duh. I found a post about the O2 plug on RS25 last night. My buddy who works at VIP is also going to check for me, so that should be sorted out today. Speed sensor I figured the VSS plug thing wasn't the solution. I'll probably get an aftermarket box thingy that why I can correct for tire size changes as well since I want to do a lot of TSDs along with autox and rallyx. As for the driveline noise. I hope it isn't that. The box has only 80k miles on it. I'll have the dealership give it a listen when I bring it in to have an alignment done. If something is wearing inside... Guess I'll just have to tear it open, fix it, and add a front LSD while I'm in there. Hey, I can dream right.
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Mar 30, 2011 17:19
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Neptr posted:The DOHC motor (EJ25D) had less torque, no rear LSD, a different front bumper which I don't think looks as nice, and only came in coupe. Since it was the only year for that engine, finding parts for it may be more difficult. I would say definitely hunt for a '00/'01 which are the same except for some interior detailing I believe. If you can't find one of those (it can take a while to find one at the right price) go for a '99, which just lacks the rear LSD. It's a viscous coupling unit anyways, which loses it's effectiveness when you drive the car hard. Also, if you're looking at cars in the DOHC/SOHC changeover period ('98-'00 or so) it's probably a good idea to double check the engine that's actually in the car. I don't know if this is common or not, but my '99 forester had the sohc ej253 but the window sticker and the owner's manual both claimed it had the dohc.
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Mar 30, 2011 17:42
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The gear noise is probably normal with all the upgraded mounts and bushings. My car is loud and I still have standard motor/trans mounts. sounds like you have a simple wiring issue like a loose/missing ground or a short. if you completely unplug that 02 sensor with the pins in the wrong place does it still stall? Blaise posted:Running into an issue here ('02 WRX): My wideband O2 sensor is spliced off of the switched power to my clock. Whenever it's on, I get feedback into the radio (high pitched). It's not too loud but annoying enough. WB02s can be pretty picky about where they get their power and the grounds so I would just go back to the better power source. in other news we put that new Garrett GTX35r on yesterday and went and got it tuned: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4WDSz-2gTY it made a lot of boosts. jamal fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Mar 30, 2011 |
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Mar 30, 2011 17:52
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lazer_chicken posted:Also, if you're looking at cars in the DOHC/SOHC changeover period ('98-'00 or so) it's probably a good idea to double check the engine that's actually in the car. I don't know if this is common or not, but my '99 forester had the sohc ej253 but the window sticker and the owner's manual both claimed it had the dohc.
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Mar 30, 2011 18:50
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I love my bastard year '99. Phase 2!
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Mar 30, 2011 20:05
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jamal posted:The gear noise is probably normal with all the upgraded mounts and bushings. My car is loud and I still have standard motor/trans mounts. Hoping the gear noise is just the mounts. I'll have the techs at the dealership give 'er a listen when they do the alignment. I found the right wiring for the O2 sensor, so that's all fixed. Car should be good to go! jamal posted:in other news we put that new Garrett GTX35r on yesterday and went and got it tuned:  700whp wtf how is that... 
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Mar 30, 2011 22:07
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Slow is Fast posted:
something like 37psi 
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Mar 30, 2011 22:35
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Would somebody compare/contrast the 2nd Gen Legacy/1st Outback to the 3rd Gen Legacy/2nd Gen Outback? I'm a college student and I want a mildly capable offroad vehicle (dirt roads and sand mostly) that's economical enough to afford driving, but I don't know if the improvements to the 00+ model year cars are drastic enough to warrant an extra grand or two on the used market. I know the body style is drastically changed but from reading cars101 it seems like functionally not much has changed. Any thoughts?
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Mar 30, 2011 22:47
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A regular Impreza/Legacy does just fine in Sand/Dirt. As for your question, I have no idea. However, in either case I do recommend a manual transmission as your generally get Subaru's 2nd best AWD system (behind the STI).
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Mar 30, 2011 22:57
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jamal posted:something like 37psi Is that running e85 or 100 octane race fuel?
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Mar 30, 2011 23:51
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e85. early last year we were on MS109 (110 unleaded). Switching to e85 took us from 550 to 650. Then we discovered our oil catch can was causing us to burn a lot of oil. We fixed that and picked up another 40whp. then swapped turbo and we're at close to 750. it's pretty nuts and I won't be surprised if the transmission, block, a rod, or headgasket fail in the very near future. This weekend we're going to AZ for the modified magazine super jdm tuna shootout race wars. I think we have a chance at winning provided the car stays together and GST doesn't show up with the L. nothing done to trans, never even been apart, stock diffs too. I just got a quote for some Albins straight cut dog gears and it made me really hope nothing breaks. jamal fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Mar 31, 2011 |
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Mar 31, 2011 00:38
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What have you done to the transmission to reinforce it?
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Mar 31, 2011 00:40
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Pretty impressive, most Garret 35/40R dynos I've seen are in the 450-500 whp range except with the same terrible spool.
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Mar 31, 2011 01:55
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how is that terrible spool?
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Mar 31, 2011 04:11
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I've got more dumb questions, sorry. I've got a set of RS 6 spokes that I'm going to be putting summers on. Should I be getting 225/50R16's or 205/55R16's. Would the 225's fit awkwardly, bulge too much, or would they be a better setup. I plan to get a high performance summer tire and do some autox. A friend has some 07 forester 16's and he's wondering the same thing about tire sizing as I am.
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Mar 31, 2011 04:45
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