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The Scientist posted:What, in god's name, does fettled mean? Only people with intense amounts of self-loathing would try to work with Live Oak. It is the devil's own wood. Fettled means fitted & adjusted, i.e. to make everything fit as it should.
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Mar 23, 2011 02:54
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The Scientist posted:What, in god's name, does fettled mean? You really need to get a camera... 
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Mar 23, 2011 04:39
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Over the course of this week, I've read this entire thread. Thanks a lot, guys. So while I've done some woodwork:  I want to do some more. I've been putzing around with what I've got. That being a saw or 3, a Stanley no. 4 and a little no name plane, and some other stuff. Doing this stuff by hand is really relaxing for me. Shaping the neck of my guitar was the most fun part of that project for me. (I have to say, the guitars in this thread are making me incredibly jealous. I'm thinking of trying my hand at an acoustic.) Also, there's a big maple tree in the backyard that's coming down. I'd like to keep the wood for lumber. I know that's absolutely crazy, but I'd like to make something out of the tree I spent climbing and swinging from when I was little  Even after reading the whole thread, I can't remember anything about somebody milling their own lumber from a log (except for Jaimie, the crazy/crazy-awesome guy in Vermont building a spider-tank.) If anybody here has any experience with that, I'd love to hear it.So while I'm here, I've got a question. I have a flush-cutting backsaw. It looks like it has cross-cutting teeth, but it has absolutely no set whatsoever. This is confusing the hell out of me. It couldn't've been manufactured like that, right? Is it hosed? (It cuts kind of like a dull saw. I would sharpen it, but I just want to know if it's hosed or not before I go into that.) If it's not supposed to be like that, would it be possible to just take a triangle file and file the teeth until they're 'flat' and resemble a rip-saw cut pattern? e: I spiel prtety godo. Rotten Cookies fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Mar 25, 2011 |
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Mar 25, 2011 21:33
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My grandfather used to mill his own wood but the only bit I remember is that it took years for it to dry properly. Or he used years on it, I'm not sure.
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Mar 25, 2011 22:49
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If its truly a flush-cutting saw, isn't that the exact reason why it wouldn't have any set? The more set, the bigger the kerf, the less flush cut the flush cut saw cuts. At least that's my logical conclusion. I'm actually "milling" some boards out of some huge Live Oak logs as we speak. Ok well not literally as we speak. Its a project I'm engaged in currently. And it was a bad idea to begin with. Mostly because Live Oak is the hardest wood I've ever come across, even though I've lived around it my entire life. There's a couple techniques I'm using. And not only are they not necessarily the best strategy, they are probably the worst way to go about doing it. First asset you need is a good chainsaw. If my chainsaw had enough bar and chain oil in it, I'd be using that for every single step short of finishing and dimensioning. Mine's a 16" stihl (by far my favorite small engine machine brand of all time). Make sure the chain is good and sharp, and take extra measures to account for one of the chainsaws biggest pitfalls - that is, that it wastes away so much wood. I figure if the maple tree's coming down in the first place, a chainsaw must be involved at some point, right? Are you the ones taking it down or did you hire somebody? Another good tool is the Froe. Its trivial to make one out of an old truck leaf spring. Although mine doesn't have a handle. You want the "cutting" surface to be dull but not blunt (which is why cutting isn't the right word to use at all. the objective is splitting). How well a froe would work is very much a function of how straight-grained the wood is. Super straight grained wood splits (or hues or rives) beautifully, while the less straight-grained, the more laughable an endeavor riving timbers is. Maple is pretty hard by nature, which will make riving proportionally more difficult. Then you can make a draw knife from the same leaf spring (which I did as well, actually, I made 2) and use that for roughing the shape of the timbers. Then once they're approximately the right shape and size, use a plane with a nice sharp blade to try and get as good of a surface as you can. Everything short of the planing can be done while the wood is still relatively green/wet. See if you can leave the timbers in the sun and up off of the ground (on top of some other logs, say) to dry as best as they can. Wait till they're nice and dry before trying to plane 'em or use any saw with teeth of a finer pitch and/or set than say a bow saw. A saw blade we traditionally use for normal woodworking gets gummed up pretty quick by flexible, wet wood fibers of green wood. Personally, I think its more doable than we probably realize. Plus when whatever it is is finished, its a lot more satisfying. I've never personally tried using my own milled lumber wood projects as a pick up line before, but I'm pretty sure it'd get you laid in like a second.
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Mar 25, 2011 23:18
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The Scientist posted:If its truly a flush-cutting saw, isn't that the exact reason why it wouldn't have any set? The more set, the bigger the kerf, the less flush cut the flush cut saw cuts. At least that's my logical conclusion. I thought that, too. And it makes perfect sense. I'm just wondering why the teeth are sharpened at an angle as opposed to the flat kind of sharp that a rip saw has. The Scientist posted:First asset you need is a good chainsaw...it wastes away so much wood... a chainsaw must be involved at some point, right? Are you the ones taking it down or did you hire somebody? We'll be taking the tree down ourselves, yeah. We've done it before, and there's plenty of room for it to fall (in most directions  ) The chainsaw we have is kind of eh. McCulloch 3200. I don't know chainsaw brands or anything, but this one is kind of wimpy feeling. It's set up with a 14" bar, but still... eh.The Scientist posted:Another good tool is the Froe. laughably...maple... hard...draw knife from the same leaf spring... This actually seems great. If it's ridiculously tough, I'll switch to another method, but you bet I'll be trying this first. Seems most labor-intensive, but I can easily imagine myself getting a pitiful board per day on weekends until it's all rived up. (down?) Bonus: Excuse to make a draw knife or 2 (which I've always wanted) and a froe. Iskariot posted:My grandfather used to mill his own wood but the only bit I remember is that it took years for it to dry properly. Or he used years on it, I'm not sure. Yeah, that's the only disappointing thing about it, that I won't be able to use the wood right away. I saw some plans for a solar kiln sort of thing, which kind of just looks like a green house. That would be another neat thing, but is probably not feasible for one tree. I understand it's a daunting task, but I'm up for it. Another question: How much would it affect the log if I slowly took boards from it? Like took a board or two from it, then left the rest of the log for a week or two if I couldn't get to it. I'd like to think "It's a goddamn tree. A bigass tree. It can take it." But I can also imagine it warping all different ways after taking some wood off, making me cry. Thanks guys, hope to be posting some cool stuff in here some time soon, whether or not it's made from a backyard tree. (Little note: that guitar I posted was made from maple from my uncle's backyard. Maybe this is becoming a thing...)
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Mar 25, 2011 23:57
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Rotten Cookies posted:Also, there's a big maple tree in the backyard that's coming down. I'd like to keep the wood for lumber. I know that's absolutely crazy, but I'd like to make something out of the tree I spent climbing and swinging from when I was little While we didn't do the milling ourselves, my dad and I saved the lumber from a few cherry trees that were being taken down at a customers house. We let the logs sit in a field for about a year before we took them to a mill, which was just a guy who had a bandsaw mill that did it on weekends for extra cash. We took the logs down on a saturday morning, he loaded the logs one at a time into his mill, did his thing, and we loaded the lumber back onto the truck. Cost us about $200 for about 800 board feet of cherry. Took it home and stacked it nicely in the garage and let it dry for about another year. Now my dad's been making some nice stuff out of it. I've yet to do anything with it. So theres that option, find someone with a mill near you and figure out what it would cost. I'm sure the price varies wildly on something like that though.
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Mar 26, 2011 00:55
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Rotten Cookies posted:I thought that, too. And it makes perfect sense. I'm just wondering why the teeth are sharpened at an angle as opposed to the flat kind of sharp that a rip saw has. If you are installing molding/trim, which is what flush cut saws are used for probably 90+% of the time, then a crosscut saw with no set makes a lot of sense. The Lee Valley flush cut saw has set on only one side, so there are different ways to approach the problem.
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Mar 26, 2011 02:21
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Rotten Cookies posted:How much would it affect the log if I slowly took boards from it? Like took a board or two from it, then left the rest of the log for a week or two if I couldn't get to it. I'd like to think "It's a goddamn tree. A bigass tree. It can take it." But I can also imagine it warping all different ways after taking some wood off, making me cry. I figure you'll be alright. When you split the wood off, that much more of the remaining log now has access to ambient air into which some of the moisture can evaporate. Also the board has a new outlet for moisture, too. So it kind of actually helps it to dry, all though not all that much. I really don't see much of a problem, but if anyone else knows of any, I'd be curious to hear about it as well. Do you know how to coax a tree to come down in the direction you want? You cut a wedge out of the side of the trunk that faces the direction you want it to come down towards. I've heard people call this "taking a piece of the pie". Then you start cutting into the tree on the opposite side of the tree just above your wedge. The wedge, by the way, is like 1 cut straight into the tree at a 90 o angle, then an undercut to bust out the whole wedge chunk at say, 30o upwards. Then when it starts to yield, run the gently caress away (with the chainsaw either off, or at least with the chain brake on). You must yell timber. If you don't yell timber, the tree will suddenly stop falling. Also I think Tiberius M might be of the particular skill set to nit pick any of this if need be. Very jealous of the almost free 800' of Cherry BTW.  I don't think cherry grows anywhere around Florida. Were there any cherries on the tree when you cut it down? Double bonus.
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Mar 26, 2011 07:29
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In fact, one time I saw this dude who came out to take down some pretty tall - say 50+ feet, long leaf pines that were bordering on perilously close to the house, take this giant slingshot thing, and shoot this mini football looking thing up and over a big branch. The mini football thing had a small string tied to it, which once over he used to feed bigger diameter rope. Then he somehow used pulling force to accomplish something, I can't remember all that well. But it wasn't a whole lot of force so it couldn't have done that much. Maybe just guided it ever so slightly. Then afterwards he signed the stump with his initials with the chainsaw. A lot of that operation seemed unnecessarily superfluous, but what do I know?
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Mar 26, 2011 07:34
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My old man and I took down few spruce trees that were in between my parents house and the neighbors house. They needed to be guided down and we didn't have any special way of tying off a guide rope so I just climbed up as far as I could with the rope. The trees came down ok and I was still feeling sticky with sap a few days later. We didn't want the wood so we cut up the trunks and left them on the side of the road with a free sign on them. They were gone within hours.
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Mar 26, 2011 18:25
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When you take the tree down paint the ends to prevent checking. You really want to cut the log/s up all at once, not wait around wacking at it with a leaf spring. Honestly you'd be way better off hiring a guy with a portable mill to come out and do it. Had a guy come down when I was in TN a couple years back and he cut up 1000 BF for me for .24 cents a BF. Took a couple hours. Air drying takes on average 1 year per inch of thickness. Give or take a month or two for varying climates. Guess you could also google Alaskan Mill and see if that appeals to you.
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Mar 26, 2011 21:38
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I'm going to have to respectfully agree to disagree. I think you should wait around whacking it with a leaf spring.
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Mar 26, 2011 21:50
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The Scientist posted:In fact, one time I saw this dude who came out to take down some pretty tall - say 50+ feet, long leaf pines that were bordering on perilously close to the house, take this giant slingshot thing, and shoot this mini football looking thing up and over a big branch. The mini football thing had a small string tied to it, which once over he used to feed bigger diameter rope. Then he somehow used pulling force to accomplish something, I can't remember all that well. But it wasn't a whole lot of force so it couldn't have done that much. Maybe just guided it ever so slightly. The whole rope/football thing sounds a bit crazy, but in no way should anyone avoid signing their initials into a stump if they can. Personally I'd worry about kickback but I'm just a suburban noob, not a 'bacco chewin', flannel clad manly man. I actually felled a tree with my chainsaw today. Admittedly it was an eight foot palm tree that kind of fell limply to the ground instead of crashing down but I felt my man-cred rise just that little bit. Sadly the stump was much too small for me to carve my initials into  I've got about 16 palms out the front of my house that are of a good size except for the runt that I cut down today. They were, I think, planted in the '80s - I think someone was into Miami Vice a little too much back in the day.
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Mar 27, 2011 08:13
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ChaoticSeven posted:When you take the tree down paint the ends to prevent checking. You really want to cut the log/s up all at once, not wait around wacking at it with a leaf spring. Honestly you'd be way better off hiring a guy with a portable mill to come out and do it. Had a guy come down when I was in TN a couple years back and he cut up 1000 BF for me for .24 cents a BF. Took a couple hours. Air drying takes on average 1 year per inch of thickness. Give or take a month or two for varying climates. This. Sometimes it is just better to pay people who have the right equipment to do the job. Your time has to be worth something, and the amount of time a guy with a portable mill would save you is enormous.
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Mar 27, 2011 13:37
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Fine fine fine, I get it. I'm over-zealous about doing things by hand right now, probably. I'll be searching for a dude with a portable mill.
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Mar 27, 2011 15:53
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Kick back can be dangerous. The rule that the manual says is never to use the last 1/3 of the top of the chainsaw's bar. Personally, I usually don't use the top of the chainsaw. The direction of the chain is such that the bottom of the chain, when cutting, pulls the wood towards you, or the chainsaw away from you. The top, conversely, pushes the wood away from you, or the chainsaw towards you. It can be used safely in this manner, but if you get to the last 1/3 of the top of the bar, there is the potential that the place where the chain's teeth are engaging the wood will rotate 180o from the top, around the tip of the bar, to the bottom, and it acts kind of like a spinning tire and launches the blade into you face. It sounds like you, truncated ardvaar, have a good understanding of this phenomena of manliness, but just in case there's anyone who didn't, here it is. 1. Humbleness is manly 2. Using a chainsaw safely is incredibly manly 3. Cutting yourself with a chainsaw and loving yourself up is decidedly not manly. Because the first thing the next manly dude is gonna say to you is "you shouldna done this because blah blah blah" and then that guy takes your woman home from the ER because he not necessarily knows more about how to use a chainsaw (which is manly), but because he's given the impression that he knows how to use a chainsaw better than you. Worst cut I ever got was from a chainsaw .... which wasn't on.  Making sure the chain was tight on the bar, opened up the blade brake/clutch, spinning the chain around the bar, chain was in fact pretty tight, I was bearing down on it to get the chain to spin (holding it in my hand), chain finally gave and started spinning. Hand slipped, knuckle of my index finger demonstrated how sharp the chain in fact was. It was my Stihl I been talking about, and it has an aggressive cut blade. Grabbed a filthy, oily rag - the only thing I had - and instantly clutched it as tight as I could around it. Didn't hurt so so bad at that point. Took it inside and ran it under mu sink to try and clean it out, WORST PAIN EVER. Wrapped it in gauss, antibiotic, and medical tape, tourniquet tight, and promptly went to the dentist to get some cavities drilled.
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Mar 27, 2011 17:11
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Mar 27, 2011 22:37
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I'm working on a pair of nightstands for my bedroom (though with my work schedule, these are likely to be finished when I retire  ). The basic design is loosely Shaker inspired but includes a bunch of ideas I have seen around the web. The entire project will be made from some 4/4 maple that I have lying around. The top is made from four 4x16 boards, aligned with small dowels (I don't have a biscuit jointer and want to give this technique a go anyway). Two additional boards are breadboarded on to the edges with a dovetail slot, each centrally pinned from the underside with another single dowel.  The legs and 3" apron are connected via simple mortise and tenon joints, with the legs tapering on the inside from 1.5" to 3/4" at the bottom.  My problem is how to attach the table top to the base. Whilst the tables are small and I have a well air-conditioned house in Los Angeles, I'd like to be certain about any expansion/contraction of the top. I can't see anywhere that would allow a figure-8 connection to do it's job properly. My best plan at the moment is to have 2 figure-8s connecting each of the apron sides to the breadboards as the predominant expansion is going to be forwards/backwards. Does anyone have any comments/suggestions/better ideas before I make a start?
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Mar 27, 2011 23:39
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I wonder if anybody's invented a router template jig for cutting biscuit slots yet. With regard to everything else dja98, I'll have to defer to those more knowledgeable. Fixed up a Black and Decker circular saw that's literally as old as me today. The bearings were screaming. I initially thought that's just what circular saws sound like. But definitely not. Cleaned burnt, seared grease, dirt, and saw dust off of everything. Sanded down the ends of the axle of the rotor that mate to bronze bushings, these act like bearings. Squirted some grease in there and on all mating surfaces. Cleaned all the copper contacts (including the commutator) up with sand paper. Walmart has black and decker carbide tipped 7 1/4" (5/8" arbor) circular saw blades for $3. Put it all back together, plugged it in and tried it out. At first I was like "well it sounds better, but not incredibly better", and then I sawed through a live oak piece I had and it was literally as easy as sweeping my hand across it. I thought maybe I hadn't had the blade set deep enough and hadn't cut through all the way (really I thought I hadn't cut into it at all), but nope, clean through. It was literally like the librarian in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade who's stamping books as Indie's pounding away at ancient Italian floor tiles. I was in awe.
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Mar 28, 2011 00:31
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The Scientist posted:I wonder if anybody's invented a router template jig for cutting biscuit slots yet. I've seen people use a slot cutter - but they leave semi-circular holes, rather than biscuit shaped ones. It's an okay solution but I want to try dowel based alignment for my own education.
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Mar 28, 2011 00:48
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The Scientist posted:CHAINSORES Yeah - chainsaws scare the crap out of me, I don't mind telling you. Those and large angle grinders, one of which I also purchased recently. I don't think you can give them too much respect. Ambrose Burnside posted:That's quite hypnotic - it's hard to imagine the guy up the ladder actually envisioned a good outcome to that scenario.
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Mar 28, 2011 09:12
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dja98 posted:I'm working on a pair of nightstands for my bedroom (though with my work schedule, these are likely to be finished when I retire Since you asked, here's my initial thoughts: -- Why the dowels in the top panels? That will actually be hell to drill and align unless you plan to surface plane the final piece after glue-up. I'd recommend just glue, nothing else, just make sure your facing edges are perfectly planed. The glue joint is PLENTY strong in the configuration you show. Actually, it'd be perfectly strong without the breadboard ends. -- Will your tenons "meet up" inside the leg? If so, plan whether you want to miter their ends to meet perfectly, or if one is shorter than the other. -- Top-to-apron always leaves me feeling like there must be a better way. But at the end of the day, it's pretty much figure-8's or turnsquares. Your design looks perfectly compatible with 8's -- you know how they work, right? You just use a Frostner bit on top of the apron to make a very shallow slot for the big circle, so it's top is flush with the top of the skirt. Turnsquares are considerably more work. -- Will your leg taper go the whole length, or start just under the apron? I'd recommend the latter, unless you really want a specific effect. Jus checking. -- Again on the "why dowels" tip, but why "pin" the breadboards? Actually, why dovetail slot them, too? If you did a normal straight-side rebate, you could stop it (and the tenon) short of the side of the board, too, giving a cleaner look. -- You may want to treat the table edge, either decoratively or whatever fits your fancy, even if it's just a tiny round-over. Don't leave it perfectly square like it is in your mock-up -- that sharp edge will be ruined and irreparable in days.
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Mar 28, 2011 09:21
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Cobalt60 posted:rebate Are you English Cobalt? edit: All my drying Live Oak is getting rained on. Almost none of it is finished cut, its almost entirely just rough cut bolts that I was gonna cut to shape and size later. What should I be concerned about? whose tuggin fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Mar 28, 2011 |
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Mar 28, 2011 17:04
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Cobalt60 posted:Since you asked, here's my initial thoughts: Cobalt60 posted:-- Why the dowels in the top panels? That will actually be hell to drill and align unless you plan to surface plane the final piece after glue-up. I'd recommend just glue, nothing else, just make sure your facing edges are perfectly planed. The glue joint is PLENTY strong in the configuration you show. Actually, it'd be perfectly strong without the breadboard ends. Cobalt60 posted:-- Will your tenons "meet up" inside the leg? If so, plan whether you want to miter their ends to meet perfectly, or if one is shorter than the other. Cobalt60 posted:-- Top-to-apron always leaves me feeling like there must be a better way. But at the end of the day, it's pretty much figure-8's or turnsquares. Your design looks perfectly compatible with 8's -- you know how they work, right? You just use a Frostner bit on top of the apron to make a very shallow slot for the big circle, so it's top is flush with the top of the skirt. Turnsquares are considerably more work. Cobalt60 posted:-- Will your leg taper go the whole length, or start just under the apron? I'd recommend the latter, unless you really want a specific effect. Jus checking. Cobalt60 posted:-- Again on the "why dowels" tip, but why "pin" the breadboards? Actually, why dovetail slot them, too? If you did a normal straight-side rebate, you could stop it (and the tenon) short of the side of the board, too, giving a cleaner look. Cobalt60 posted:-- You may want to treat the table edge, either decoratively or whatever fits your fancy, even if it's just a tiny round-over. Don't leave it perfectly square like it is in your mock-up -- that sharp edge will be ruined and irreparable in days.
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Mar 28, 2011 17:35
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dja98 posted:I know I could just glue-up the entire top and everything would be fine. I'm trying to use the opportunity to learn some new techniques. I may still replace the dowel idea with some router slot-cutter holes for biscuits (Bill Hylton shows this in his router book). If you're not married to it, dump the dowels. I'd honestly say that "really good technique" would actually lead to a perfectly flush (or, if you want to be fancy, a "spring joint-ed") glue-only joint. Stuff like biscuits and their brethren are, to me, an excuse for sloppy joinery technique, as opposed to a generally good idea. Just my POV, though. dja98 posted:Under the apron - definitely, I don't want to make angled joints on this project if I can help it. whew, that would be SO much work for so little gain dja98 posted:Again, this is just an opportunity to practice a technique I haven't used before. A pinned dovetail slot with no glue for a breadboard can handle any lateral expansion by the center boards. On this small top, it doesn't really matter, but I wanted to give it a try Are you familiar with drawboring? It's a very classic technique for breadboards, and might be classier than straight dowels. Again, I'd personally take a close look at using straight tenon(s) rather than the sliding dovetail, but of course do what you enjoy -- probably no bid deal at the end of the day. Looks good, and I bet if you execute cleanly these could really be "for life" pieces! PS: nope, I'm fully 'merican, just moved out to the west coast here in Oregon. I just like "rebate" better than "rabbit." You know, using words that actually mean stuff to people, etc.
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Mar 28, 2011 21:20
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GEMorris posted:
Any idea on the dimensions on those legs? They have to be at least 6x6.
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Mar 30, 2011 22:50
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Carta posted:Any idea on the dimensions on those legs? They have to be at least 6x6. It's "for his daughter" so they might be 4x4. That thing's both beefcake and cute at the same time -- like a mini-version of his most recent bench project, right?
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Mar 31, 2011 01:44
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I went to Woodcraft of Orlando today, MAN that place is awesome. I saw woods that I had only ever seen on TV. Cocobolo, purple heart, zebra wood, ebony from madagascar, ebony from Gabon (they were both turning stock, but the one from Gabon was more expensive. I was telling my friend that it was probably because someone had to hike into the jungle of Africa in the middle of a civil war to get ebony from Gabon), Blood wood, there was this HUGE piece of milled live oak, like what I've been working with, except a gigantic crotch cross-section some 2 or 3 inches thick. And not only will they plane down wood for me, but they even do laser etching. Some of the stuff they had as examples of their etchings... oh man. Went up to the coke machine, and all the different flavors of coke had its logo etched into a piece of wood that was the buttons on the coke machine. Unique tools that you can't just walk into Lowe's and get - like spokeshaves (which I had never actually seen in real life before) and cabinet scrapers of all sorts of different shapes. Any chisel you can imagine. One of those aisles of woodturning kits for pens, bottle stoppers, key chains, pepper shakers, even steel knives with do-it-yourself handles. Good thing my friend moved to Orlando to go to school so I have an excuse to go to this place. As I walked out, a lady asked me if I wanted a catalog and my friend goes "yeah that's like a playboy to him"  e:wow, thanks for the tip VVVVV whose tuggin fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Mar 31, 2011 |
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Mar 31, 2011 04:10
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As far as the hardwoods go in Orlando, also check out Amazon Hardwoods (link). It may be hard to find in the industrial plaza, IIRC there wasn't a sign the last time I was out there. Mindblowing amount of lumber compared to the woodcraft, however I haven't seriously sat down and compared prices.
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Mar 31, 2011 04:51
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The Scientist posted:And not only will they plane down wood for me, but they even do laser etching. Some of the stuff they had as examples of their etchings... oh man. Went up to the coke machine, and all the different flavors of coke had its logo etched into a piece of wood that was the buttons on the coke machine. Yeah, those buttholes at Woodcraft up here in Cincinnati just started doing laser engraving as well. They bought the exact same machine that I had bought for myself a few months earlier. Quit stealing my business ideas, Woodcraft! 
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Apr 1, 2011 00:47
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mcrandello posted:As far as the hardwoods go in Orlando, also check out Amazon Hardwoods (link). It may be hard to find in the industrial plaza, IIRC there wasn't a sign the last time I was out there. Mindblowing amount of lumber compared to the woodcraft, however I haven't seriously sat down and compared prices. Damnit! I was half asleep and half read your post and thought Amazon dot com was selling exotic lumber.
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Apr 1, 2011 02:24
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Boogeyman posted:Yeah, those buttholes at Woodcraft up here in Cincinnati just started doing laser engraving as well. They bought the exact same machine that I had bought for myself a few months earlier. Quit stealing my business ideas, Woodcraft! If its any consolation, my wife and I started the wooden wedding invitation trend in 2007 (https://www.oslopress.com). Now several of companies with bigger market presence are selling inferior product at lower prices to cash in on the demand/popularity. Even if you get there first someone with deeper pockets can still outmarket you.
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Apr 1, 2011 04:25
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Circus Pies! posted:Damnit! I was half asleep and half read your post and thought Amazon dot com was selling exotic lumber. Prime shipping on Koa would be the final nail in my financial coffin.
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Apr 1, 2011 05:22
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Would it be for building a literal coffin out of Koa? So I was thinking about making a small wooden chest, like a miniature treasure chest, with sheet brass on all the edges. That's what I was thinking about using this live oak I've been dimensioning. And since it has that historical relation to the USS Constitution "Old Ironsides", I was thinking about perhaps having a painting of the ship laser etched onto the front. Haven't chosen a painting yet or anything, just conceptualizing it in my head at this point. What do you guys think? Would it look tacky? Would it be too stark of a contrast against the otherwise traditional look of the rest of the chest? Too modern? I thought maybe I could offset the starkness of it by choosing a traditional, mariner-esque painting. But I really don't know. Or perhaps I could have it etched into the inside.
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Apr 1, 2011 06:59
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I want to make some nice wood trim pieces to replace ones in my car. I think a grey color would look nice but I'm not sure exactly what would be the best way to do it. Some kind of bleaching treatment? (I don't actually have the awful steering wheel) Think this:  instead of this:  E: I'm going to make new ones, not modify the old ones, just to be clear. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 08:58 on Apr 1, 2011 |
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Apr 1, 2011 08:56
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You could just choose a nice wood to start out with. We've been talking recently (a couple posts up) about wood working stores and their selections of exotic hardwoods. You should see if there's one nearby to you, and just take a gander at the different types of woods. You might be impressed.
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Apr 1, 2011 16:56
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I'm probably buying the new Veritas gang saw: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=62708&c= jk lol jk
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Apr 1, 2011 18:02
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MAN that is arbitrary.
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Apr 1, 2011 23:34
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 12:56 |
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If you get a nice figured maple you can dye it black and then sand it back and that will leave the black in the figure. It can leave you with a pretty decent grey/silver look.
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Apr 1, 2011 23:56
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