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localized posted:Is it throwing any codes for oxygen sensors? That would be my guess. I get no CEL, either. Is there any other indicator for an error outside of a CEL or something on the SID?
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Mar 9, 2011 00:27
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Is the engine up to temperature for most of the time, or are they mostly short trips? Still, 14 seems awfully low even for short hops. Are the numbers from the SID or calculated based on fillups and mileage?
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Mar 9, 2011 03:10
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Viggen posted:Saw a 1996 9000 CSE with only 62,000 on it. Wanted $5995.00. Passed. Have been promising myself one of those. Such a large interior and engine bay space, so easily tuned to loving huge gobs of power.
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Mar 9, 2011 03:29
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Mario posted:Is the engine up to temperature for most of the time, or are they mostly short trips? Still, 14 seems awfully low even for short hops. I asked her if she was noticing more frequent fillups. She hadn't, but it's obviously imprecise if you're not thinking about it. I believe her trips to/from work are pretty short. <10 min on a quick day. Which should hurt mileage, but to 14mpg?
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Mar 9, 2011 04:13
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kimbo305 posted:I asked her if she was noticing more frequent fillups. She hadn't, but it's obviously imprecise if you're not thinking about it. I believe her trips to/from work are pretty short. <10 min on a quick day. Which should hurt mileage, but to 14mpg? If the exhaust wasn't heated up could the post car 02 sensor fail? Mine were both garbage with no codes. I've heard heating them up with a mapp torch can make them work again but it could be bs.
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Mar 9, 2011 04:48
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Mcqueen posted:Have been promising myself one of those. Such a large interior and engine bay space, so easily tuned to loving huge gobs of power. I'm flip-flopping on this one. Has the latest ZF (but I want a stick), and the bastards haven't called me back to go have a better look at it (hoses, belts looked OK, but not gonna take a 3 hour road trip without putting more effort into discerning what's wrong/right with it). See a much nicer (in concept) one somewhere in Jersey: http://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/2262929492.html
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Mar 13, 2011 17:57
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Even if I take a 2 hour drive and drop a 20% deposit, they won't let me take it to my indy who (still) knows a hell of a lot more than I do. drat, it was a nice looking 9K too, even if an automatic.
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Mar 18, 2011 18:38
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For 6 grand on a old as poo poo car they wont let you take it to a shop for a PPI? Walk...no, run away.
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Mar 18, 2011 18:59
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Mcqueen posted:Walk...no, run away. For sure. Sad thing is it's the best (looking) 9K I've found semi-local in about 4 years. Oh well, can keep looking.
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Mar 18, 2011 23:17
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I didn't get to see what year it was, but a 98 with neutral mileage books for 4,555 retail. Though that is in CA, so your area may vary. edit: actually doing a bookout online using your zip, it's still only $4,580 retail. Good thing you passed anyway because you would have been overpaying by a buck and a half.
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Mar 18, 2011 23:30
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Sometimes it's okay to overpay for something that's exactly what you want
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Mar 19, 2011 00:47
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Faerunner posted:2000 9-3 SE, 101k miles. Since this post the MAF has been cleaned, new air filter, new plugs, made sure to keep feeding it 93 octane. It still misses a little occasionally but the fuel economy shot up from about 17MPG mixed to 22MPG mixed and no check engine light. Once the weather stays consistently nicer we're going to be replacing the thermostat/coolant temperature sensor (My fiance says "They're $20 total, might as well do them both" and it's his time and money so whatever.) and whatever else we can clean/fix/replace while we're at it. I've seen people say they get 30MPG+ in one of these. I would love for us to get that kind of fuel efficiency... This car REALLY makes me miss our Civic when it comes time to fill the tank.
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Mar 21, 2011 03:51
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Make sure the spark plugs are gapped correctly. Buy yourself a new DI cartridge and put that in place and put the one you are using now in the trunk. 30 MPG is entirely possible if you drive using the turbo as little as possible.
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Mar 21, 2011 11:49
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They are. It's a new DIC, replaced last fall, can't really afford to buy another one at the moment. The boost gauge rarely moves out of the first section when I drive, but I'm sure my fiance's driving is driving the average down... quite a bit.
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Mar 21, 2011 13:31
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keykey posted:I didn't get to see what year it was, but a 98 with neutral mileage books for 4,555 retail. Though that is in CA, so your area may vary. The "I want a hatch stick" bug continues:  1991, 202k miles (yeah, I know). New flywheel, clutch. Larger injectors replaced, cam in '98. Years ago, dyno'd at 370 ft/lb torque. Wonder how much grunt it has left. When weather cleans up, may be roadtrip worthy. Price is very reasonable. I passed on it last year because he wanted too much. Def. a project car
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Mar 21, 2011 17:19
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Faerunner posted:They are. It's a new DIC, replaced last fall, can't really afford to buy another one at the moment. The boost gauge rarely moves out of the first section when I drive, but I'm sure my fiance's driving is driving the average down... quite a bit. Highway, reset the MPG tracking on the SID, 55MPH cruise control on, flat road. Peaked at 36, hovered around 33. Then with the slightest incline plummeted to 27 and held steady until getting off the highway 4-5 miles later and it resumed its 22ish previous high.
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Mar 21, 2011 18:20
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Faerunner posted:Highway, reset the MPG tracking on the SID, 55MPH cruise control on, flat road. How are your tires? Any uneven wear? The incline drop is somewhat normal, but did you lose a ton of power too as RPMs went up before the drop - and it just never 'recovered' completely after that? Had a couple of bolts back off on the stud for my exhaust manifold on the 'sits outside between -20 and 120' car. Thankfully, just tightening them up took care of that.
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Mar 21, 2011 18:28
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Viggen posted:How are your tires? Any uneven wear? Nope, it was running just fine power-wise. Tires are looking pretty decent, though it's about time to rotate them again, so I'll be able to answer that better after that happens. Then again, this is the first car I've driven with more than 130HP so it could be losing a third of its horsepower and torque and I may not even notice.
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Mar 21, 2011 20:21
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Faerunner posted:Nope, it was running just fine power-wise. Tires are looking pretty decent, though it's about time to rotate them again, so I'll be able to answer that better after that happens. Watch your gauge cluster - if your turbo suddenly drops backwards and you have to 'stomp it' to keep moving when going uphill, you may have an exhaust leak from the manifold. If you /always/ drive on 'first stage', it likely wouldn't be very noticable. Only reason I found mine (LPT, no turbo pressure gauge) was that I noticed myself actually pressing down hard to climb a hill; it was barely leaking, but was enough to notice then and only then.
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Mar 21, 2011 23:32
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 Ok, it's mine now. Number 4 in the family. Manual 5, B234, new turbo, new cams, wider injectors, chipped, and tuned, but still passes smog. 
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Mar 28, 2011 23:53
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Hey man, that looks really nice. Love that paint! I've always liked the styling of the later 9000's but that look is really growing on me. 9000's are becoming quite the rare breed. Seattle seems to have a large number of Saabs running around and I've only seen a handful of 9000's. Please keep it forever and ever. Homefront: Asked a local exhaust shop to weld on ball and knuckle fittings on my exhaust. Half hour and $45 later ended up with flat plate fittings. When asked why I got hosed over I got a 'sorry bro we were out of ball fittings'. Great. Going to take it to a more reputable shop who hopefully wont be wasting my time this weekend. All in all, I'm just tired having 2 perfectly good Viggens in my driveway and I want money. It appears the Blue Viggen has a slight coolant leak as well as a bit of water in the rear. This car is going to take a bit of mechanical work to make it look as good is the exterior... Also, this: 'Stanced Saabs'
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Mar 29, 2011 22:49
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Mcqueen posted:Hey man, that looks really nice. Love that paint! I've always liked the styling of the later 9000's but that look is really growing on me. 9000's are becoming quite the rare breed. Seattle seems to have a large number of Saabs running around and I've only seen a handful of 9000's. Please keep it forever and ever. Thank you! This is the second one I've seen in 4 years that I've even considered (both within a month's time) - and it's a hatch! Paint has been buffed to death and it's a very weak coat, so I'm probably going to strip it down and repaint it - eventually. Need to do the headliner, repair the seat, and some other stuff, but mechanically, it's all gravy. Mcqueen posted:All in all, I'm just tired having 2 perfectly good Viggens in my driveway and I want money. Give ya a fiver for one.  Mcqueen posted:Also, this:  Not quite sure how I feel about this.
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Mar 30, 2011 00:49
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Viggen posted:
I read this sentence over and over and get angrier every time: "If there’s one car make that has a solid potential to really look good in the fitment scene are Saabs."
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Mar 30, 2011 01:39
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I'll say this. The Saab crowd is 3 things: die hard, eclectic, ignored. I'm cool with that. Under the condition that I never have to read a Saab related thread with poo poo like 'hellaflush', 'fittment', drifting, neon, or any other flash in the pan hot garbage. On the other hand, you can get the newer 9000's pretty low and they look drat good. I suppose that doesn't have much to do with being flush though.
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Mar 30, 2011 03:15
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kimbo305 posted:"If there’s one car make that has a solid potential to really look good in the fitment scene are Saabs."  My brain still refuses to allow me to attempt to comprehend such a thing. I see 'fitment', and I parse 'Factory Standard' every time.Mcqueen posted:I'm cool with that. Under the condition that I never have to read a Saab related thread with poo poo like 'hellaflush', 'fittment', drifting, neon, or any other flash in the pan hot garbage. Craigslist finally expired what I was going to send you - it was a 9000 with 17"s, a homebuilt subwoofer, purple neon throughout, and 'a little knock in the engine'.
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Mar 30, 2011 19:45
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Would anyone happen to have a diverter valve from a 9-5 Aero or a Viggen kicking around? The crappy little Bosch valve on my 900 is leaking at 1 bar, and I would like to use the new tune to its fullest extent. I hear that the Aero and Viggen valves have stronger internals and are able to hold more boost than the standard ones. Also that hellaflush 900 is an abortion. The only thing even remotely related to that line that I have half considered would be some wheel spacers for the rear, but to be honest I don't like the idea of bolting a plate onto the hub and then bolting your wheels onto the plate... Edit: It appears that the car is actually a 3D rendering and not an actual molested vehicle. Good. localized fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Mar 31, 2011 |
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Mar 31, 2011 01:58
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Viggen posted:Craigslist finally expired what I was going to send you - it was a 9000 with 17"s, a homebuilt subwoofer, purple neon throughout, and 'a little knock in the engine'. This isn't it, but.. may be worth the cost for parts Beat up 96 9K, wiff LEDs in the floor!
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Apr 1, 2011 15:33
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Viggen posted:This isn't it, but.. may be worth the cost for parts Beat up 96 9K, wiff LEDs in the floor! You're breaking my heart.
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Apr 1, 2011 16:15
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Mcqueen posted:You're breaking my heart. How about this one, then?
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Apr 1, 2011 18:53
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Whats the bolt pattern on those, the same as yours? 4x108 or 5x110 35et? poo poo would look amazing on RKII's
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Apr 1, 2011 21:00
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Mcqueen posted:Whats the bolt pattern on those, the same as yours? 4x108 or 5x110 35et? poo poo would look amazing on RKII's 4x108 on the 9000s all the way through 98. At least I've got the Super Aeros on the 9K - I can't tell if the linked ones were, or not :
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Apr 1, 2011 23:08
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My friend is looking to pick up a '98 Saab 900s Turbo as a winter car. It is a manual gearbox, has 170k miles, and has no rust. Anything I should tell him to look for, specifically?
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Apr 2, 2011 14:07
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Epic Fail Guy posted:My friend is looking to pick up a '98 Saab 900s Turbo as a winter car. It is a manual gearbox, has 170k miles, and has no rust. Anything I should tell him to look for, specifically? This is a good write up on what to look for in an NG900 http://www.saabwiki.info/index.php?title=NG_900/9-3_Buyer%27s_Guide
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Apr 2, 2011 18:03
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Argh. Here's a new one on me. 2000 9-5 - SID works, but audio does not. E.G. No blinker or 'bong' noises from it. Display fine; removed center speaker (prestige), radio and SID, checked connections, refit, reset. Still nada. Not sure where to go from here other than attempting to replace the SID, but I'd rather not do that if I can help it.
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Apr 2, 2011 23:55
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In the NG900/OG9-3 the little speaker inside the SID itself sometimes goes out.
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Apr 3, 2011 02:49
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Anyone have an idea which part is the OEM replacement for a 1999 9-3 hatch (with spoiler and wiper) strut? Parts sites have a confusing list of variants. Some even seem to offer trunk and hatch options. Afaik, the '99 9-3 never came as a sedan? Listed in most likely to be matching to least: http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pr...0Lift%20Support http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1999/saab/93/body_mechanical_-ar-_trim/hatch_strut.html These above 2 seem to be a non OE replacement for the hatch with spoiler, and a Stabilus OEM replacment for a hatch without a spoiler. http://www.autopartstomorrow.com/parts/1703461-lift-support http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,catalog,36,partnum,SG218008,d,Sachs_SG218008.html http://www.partsgeek.com/pdproducts/DCS/05057502.html And then these above 3 seem to for a Sachs part SG218008, which Rock Auto claims to be for "Trunk Lid; w/ wiper" http://www.partsgeek.com/pdproducts/DCS/05085233.html http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,catalog,36,partnum,SG218009,d,Sachs_SG218009.html And the above 2 are for SG218009, which Rock Auto claims to be for "Trunk Lid; w/ wiper & spoiler" I just want the cheapest correct part. I'm concerned that the struts are set for exactly a specific weight, and that getting the wrong one will mean the hatch won't lift up and stay.
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Apr 3, 2011 22:14
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Mario posted:In the NG900/OG9-3 the little speaker inside the SID itself sometimes goes out. Its a BBA Reman, and I believe it's still under warranty, so I'm trying to avoid tearing it open until I hear back.  kimbo305 posted:Anyone have an idea which part is the OEM replacement for a 1999 9-3 hatch Your OE part number is: 4324307G. S2SG218008 or SAB052635 are both viable candidates. This is the cheapest I've seen, but I've never bought through them; I cheated and used Google Shopping. Edit: Another question: Anyone have a good diagram of jacking points on a 91 9000T? Owners manual is thrashed and my Amazon order has not shipped in almost 4 weeks. Viggen fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Apr 4, 2011 |
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Apr 4, 2011 16:20
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kimbo305 posted:Anyone have an idea which part is the OEM replacement for a 1999 9-3 hatch (with spoiler and wiper) strut? Parts sites have a confusing list of variants. Some even seem to offer trunk and hatch options. Afaik, the '99 9-3 never came as a sedan? http://thesaabsite.com/93/93gasshocks.htm I don't know if cross referencing the two will help you, but there seems to be 3 different kinds. Why not just get the after market viggen ones? Those have got to be the stiffest.
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Apr 4, 2011 19:57
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Wouldn't the Alfa 164 points be the same as the early 9000? Taken from a alfa board: 'Early or late models determine where I put jack under front subframe. Early models have tow hook and jack pad in middle of sub frame and I jack my early models there and then put jack stands either under sub frame side rails or under round body front jack points under front doors. Later models have no center jack pad but have two tow/jack pads on subframe front corners behind fog light area. I use two floor jacks under these areas on late models and put jack stands same as above. If you have only one floor jack either do one side at a time or use a long 4x4 under subframe front cross rail if it does not have center tow/jack point. This method spreads load across cross beam to prevent from bowing frame in center. To jack rear both wheels off the ground same time I place 6x6 or 4x4 block on floor jack and place in center of body (trunk rear floor area) just at bottom front edge of bumper cover where there is a extra thick piece of structure. I put jack stands under rear round jack points under rear door area.'
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Apr 4, 2011 20:01
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Mcqueen posted:http://thesaabsite.com/93/93gasshocks.htm I don't know how support shocks work, as far as load and wear and tear, since they are pressurized to resist in one direction all through their range. I figured the reason they were being specific is because you don't want to mix-and-match different hatches with different settings. I also didn't want a $60 OEM one when I'm pretty sure an aftermarket one will outlast the remaining life of this poor 9-3.
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Apr 4, 2011 20:38
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