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runwiled
Feb 21, 2011
I've been unable to drive my new (not really new) BMW E36 this week because the driver window motor failed in the down position. Got the replacement part midweek which was a new regulator and motor and with a day off and fine weather, a friend and I went to replace it.

This took longer than expected. Much longer.

So firstly the motor and regulator I got were from a salvaged car, or at least I assume. After swapping the unit in the first time, it was clear the motor was ok but the regulator arms didn't want to move and looking carefully revealed some mild warping. Wonderful.
Attempt number two involved switching the newer motor that worked to the old regulator, which should also still work. Install, realise arms are in wrong position and it's still not moving. Grease, grease, poke, poke.
Attempt three: remove motor again, adjust arms to different position, more grease, add motor, re-install. Realise for some reason that original regulator has been bent over on one end for some bizarre reason and band back. Motor moves regulator, now to attach regulator to window. Bastard sliders didn't want to go in easy at all. Cue much cursing but eventual win.

Door moves now...kind of. It slows and doesn't roll down well at all. Figure it's an adjustable mount position, which is moved and try again. Hooray! Works! But oh no...

Shut door, rolls down great. Roll up...oh, it's rubbing against the door seal now...well it's not too bad. Trim's already back on so adjust later and don't use the window too much until it's tweaked, if it can be.

Drive around happy that you fixed something on your own and can enjoy your new car once more. Hang out at a friend's perhaps?

And after what feels like a good productive day, get back in your car and notice the window didn't move when you open and shut the door. Try window....oh...not working again. Cue a night of now feeling like the day was wasted and not having a day off to fix it for another two days so it niggles the gently caress out of you. *angry badger noises*

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Crustashio
Jul 27, 2000

ruh roh

runwiled posted:

I've been unable to drive my new (not really new) BMW E36 this week because the driver window motor failed in the down position. Got the replacement part midweek which was a new regulator and motor and with a day off and fine weather, a friend and I went to replace it.

This took longer than expected. Much longer.

So firstly the motor and regulator I got were from a salvaged car, or at least I assume. After swapping the unit in the first time, it was clear the motor was ok but the regulator arms didn't want to move and looking carefully revealed some mild warping. Wonderful.
Attempt number two involved switching the newer motor that worked to the old regulator, which should also still work. Install, realise arms are in wrong position and it's still not moving. Grease, grease, poke, poke.
Attempt three: remove motor again, adjust arms to different position, more grease, add motor, re-install. Realise for some reason that original regulator has been bent over on one end for some bizarre reason and band back. Motor moves regulator, now to attach regulator to window. Bastard sliders didn't want to go in easy at all. Cue much cursing but eventual win.

Door moves now...kind of. It slows and doesn't roll down well at all. Figure it's an adjustable mount position, which is moved and try again. Hooray! Works! But oh no...

Shut door, rolls down great. Roll up...oh, it's rubbing against the door seal now...well it's not too bad. Trim's already back on so adjust later and don't use the window too much until it's tweaked, if it can be.

Drive around happy that you fixed something on your own and can enjoy your new car once more. Hang out at a friend's perhaps?

And after what feels like a good productive day, get back in your car and notice the window didn't move when you open and shut the door. Try window....oh...not working again. Cue a night of now feeling like the day was wasted and not having a day off to fix it for another two days so it niggles the gently caress out of you. *angry badger noises*

Honestly the E36 window motors are such a gigantic loving pain in the rear end I have no problem paying someone to deal with it. I'd rather drop my transmission again than go near anything inside an E36 door panel.

runwiled
Feb 21, 2011

Crustashio posted:

Honestly the E36 window motors are such a gigantic loving pain in the rear end I have no problem paying someone to deal with it. I'd rather drop my transmission again than go near anything inside an E36 door panel.

I will fix this even if it kills me. It has no right being broken again! I will make that fucker rue the day!

Crustashio
Jul 27, 2000

ruh roh

runwiled posted:

I will fix this even if it kills me. It has no right being broken again! I will make that fucker rue the day!

When my passenger side assembly got replaced it died within a week. They redid the labour for free, but that experience is about indicative of the luck I've had with e36 electronics.

Fender Anarchist
May 20, 2009

Fender Anarchist

Got my Split Second AFC in the mail today! Mostly went smooth, although apparently the car demanded a blood sacrifice; in the process of cutting an extra hole in the main harness grommet to run a vacuum line through the firewall, I managed to slice my left middle finger open pretty good. Apparently it was sufficient, because the car fired right up and is now driving beautifully.

Dunno if I mentioned it, but putting on my 3" turboback exacerbated a stock hesitation issue into an outright misfire at around 5k rpm. Why does it do this? Roughly 10.5:1 AFR on the stock fuel map in open loop, which it only switches over to at 4k- AFTER boost comes on, causing the ECU to trim rich trying to keep it at stoichiometric. Rich map + rich trim, exacerbated my increased scavenging creating a false lean reading, = misifre. This AFC fixes it though, and let me tell you, when I got on the highway to test it, and got a clean pull from a stop all the way to the top of third gear, I let out a WHOOP! of victory. I'll probably fine-tune the default map once I can get hold of a laptop for a while, but I haven't enjoyed this car so much since the first time I drove it after getting rid of my Taurus.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!

Toucan Sam posted:

That's awesome, been years since i saw an old Escort GT. Yours even has wheel lips that aren't rusted into oblivion. Nice car man.

Thanks man! Was a huge pain getting the tail light into place properly. I did a little more work to the rusted wheel lip the other day and if everything works out she'll be out of my hands on monday and into her new owner's.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!
Finished replacing all my shocks and springs, the rears were the last part. The car had been diving real bad when I stopped and I had no loving idea! In other words, :3:

jshoreflyer
Jan 19, 2009

Oh You Wan Taste Rainbow? Skittle No Good Only Rice An Noodle!

Imperador do Brasil posted:

Got the new wheels for the Cobat SS today, just gotta find time to put them on...

18" Enkeis with 225/40/18 (stock size) Goodyear Eagle GT's.



Nice upload a pic when you put them on :smug: I'm tired of looking at my 07's rashed wheels. Im either going to buy a set of 2009/10 rims (which look so much better than the 2005-2008 wheels) or get something like those.

----
I changed my front brake pads and rotors on my Cobalt SS and gave my brothers 2001 Ford Escape its first spark plug change at 118K miles.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



jshoreflyer posted:

Nice upload a pic when you put them on :smug: I'm tired of looking at my 07's rashed wheels. Im either going to buy a set of 2009/10 rims (which look so much better than the 2005-2008 wheels) or get something like those.

----
I changed my front brake pads and rotors on my Cobalt SS and gave my brothers 2001 Ford Escape its first spark plug change at 118K miles.

Before:


After:



I'm going to sell the stock wheels.

Edit: Wow, 4x4 stance...

Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Mar 26, 2011

def snow leppard
Sep 12, 2010

e:Nevermind.

MATLAB 1988
Sep 20, 2009
Have I posted about my Subaru XT yet? Here are pictures of my Subaru XT. POST POST POST.
Went to see some TURBO FARMS today and brought my camera that only takes creepy photos. Enjoy!

warcake
Apr 10, 2010
Fitted R32 front brakes to my mk4 gti, painted the calipers black because blue just won't go with the colour of the car. Got these discs because they are half the price of genuine ones.



Edit: some more pics







drat close under 17 inch wheels.

warcake fucked around with this message at 09:25 on Mar 27, 2011

omgitstheinternet
Apr 28, 2005

Money, Clothes, and Hoes;
All a Nigga Knows
Been doing a whole lot to my recently purchased Jetta Coupe VR6, so I'll make this a 'What did you do to your ride this week' post.

Bead blasted and painted my ported/polished intake manifold
Sanded and painted roll cage cross bar
Installed new door mirrors (that actually have mirrors in them!)
Removed rest of dumb roll cage
Removed headliner, recovered in black fabric, installed again
Removed old seat belts (unnecessary due to 3 point configuration)
Vacuumed the hell out of everything while the seats were out
Built a fancy shmancy wooden rear deck-lid out of some spare ikea flooring to cover up nasty mess p/o did cutting the old one out

To do in the next week:
Install ported/polished intake manifold
Sand/paint entire roll cage (and then sell it)
Replace thermostat/thermostat housing
Replace plugs and wires
Change oil

Grashnak
Apr 30, 2006

Oven Wrangler
I spent the weekend replacing the springs and shocks on my Celica GT-Four. Still have more to do as I discovered that the bumpstops pretty much don't exist anymore and that I don't have anything that will get the gland nut off the front struts. I got the rears done though (I have to pull them out again when the new bumpstops get here though) so I feel like I've accomplished something.

The old springs were the originals and they had sagged so much that the car will probably actually be raised slightly once I put in the eibach lowering springs I have.

Before: springs probably shouldn't do this


After: my god, it touches the top mount now


And here's the struts I removed


After seeing what I pulled off the car should feel so much better now.

VolumeOverTalent
Jan 27, 2006

Pulled the horrible plastic wheel arch trims off of the Golf. Just as I anticipated, they're all horribly rusty underneath, but one of the benefits of a 'rat' style car is that I can just slap a bit of gaffer tape on the worst bits and it looks fine. Sorted.

CornHolio
May 20, 2001

Toilet Rascal
I replaced the supercharger tensioner and pulley on my sister-in-law's Bonneville SSEi. In the fall it had eaten one pulley, so I replaced it and the belt, then when I was changing her oil a couple of weeks ago I found the belt once again on the bottom of the engine bay and a different pulley shredded. Upon closer investigation the tensioner made a horrible noise when tensioned so I replaced the whole drat thing. $60 tensioner and $15 belt from rockauto, ground shipping arrived the day after I ordered the parts. Awesome!

Old tensioner:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TSOJDzP1wC0

New tensioner:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DwMZ1R3C62U

It was pretty straightforward, except the bracket with all the ignition stuff on it had to be moved. The ECU grounds to one of the studs that the tensioner hangs on, and I put it between the terminal between the nuts when I put everything together, which gave me a big 'oh poo poo' moment when the car wouldn't start. Fixed that, car started right away, belts are perfect, hopefully it stops eating pulleys and belts now.

Also, some advice for anybody else doing this ever: the tensioner will not go in unless you first remove the pulley. The bolt for the pulley is reverse-threaded so as you apply tension, it is actually tightening the pulley. I'm so glad I knew this going in or I would have been very upset.

CornHolio fucked around with this message at 14:15 on Mar 28, 2011

tonedef131
Sep 3, 2003

CornHolio posted:

I replaced the supercharger tensioner and pulley on my sister-in-law's Bonneville SSEi.
Everyone I know with an L67 has had to replace at least one of those sueprcharger pulleys, on my wifes it was the lower idler pulley. I drove it one day and realized it wasn't boosting, popped the hood and noticed the belt gone and just thought it broke. When I went to replace it I noticed that there was supposed to be a pulley where there was only a bolt, there was literally no trace of the pulley at all. I'm surprised she didn't notice when it happened, as I imagine it was not a quiet demise.

Other than that and having to change out a noisy snout coupler the supercharger has been problem free and pretty nice to have around.

CornHolio
May 20, 2001

Toilet Rascal

tonedef131 posted:

Everyone I know with an L67 has had to replace at least one of those sueprcharger pulleys, on my wifes it was the lower idler pulley. I drove it one day and realized it wasn't boosting, popped the hood and noticed the belt gone and just thought it broke. When I went to replace it I noticed that there was supposed to be a pulley where there was only a bolt, there was literally no trace of the pulley at all. I'm surprised she didn't notice when it happened, as I imagine it was not a quiet demise.

Other than that and having to change out a noisy snout coupler the supercharger has been problem free and pretty nice to have around.

Funny you should say that, in the fall was when I saw her belt missing the first time and it was the lower idler. The pulley was still on there, but was completely torn through the ribbing.

This time I found the pulley in the grass next to their garage.

The main serpentine belt is a lot of fun to replace on that engine.

(The first pulley to go was #9, this one was #3, and #8 is also attached to the tensioner so it was replaced as well. The Bonneville uses torx bolts on all the pulleys; the engine shown must be from a Grand Prix GTP. Don't know why they're different but they are.

It must not have made that much of a racket since she didn't notice it either time. Then again, this same girl needed her engine replaced when it 'starting making weird noises' and she continued driving it for a few days before taking it in. Her oil pump was gone.

tonedef131
Sep 3, 2003

CornHolio posted:

The main serpentine belt is a lot of fun to replace on that engine.

(The first pulley to go was #9, this one was #3, and #8 is also attached to the tensioner so it was replaced as well. The Bonneville uses torx bolts on all the pulleys; the engine shown must be from a Grand Prix GTP. Don't know why they're different but they are.
I've done the main serpentine belt, I don't remember it being a nightmare but obviously you have to take off the supercharger belt just to get to it. Maybe it was though, because I know I bought the gatorback hoping I would never have to replace it again.

#9 seems to be the weakest one and the first to go on all the cars I've seen. That looks identical to my GTP and my sisters Regal. I'm surprised that the two Pontiacs use different bolts yet the Buick and the GP are the same. The only torx on mine is the #9 pulley, probably why I didn't notice it missing upon first inspection...it looks quite a bit different than the rest.

Edit: That image reminded me of a fun game to play with your friends who aren't familiar with the Buick 3.8: Find the power steering reservoir!

tonedef131 fucked around with this message at 15:10 on Mar 28, 2011

CornHolio
May 20, 2001

Toilet Rascal

tonedef131 posted:

Edit: That image reminded me of a fun game to play with your friends who aren't familiar with the Buick 3.8: Find the power steering reservoir!

I just found it. How are you supposed to get to that with the engine in the car? I thought my E36 was bad, you have to remove the airbox on that car... but I absolutely cannot see how you would get to that.

And the 3800 main serp belt wasn't a nightmare per se, but it was real easy to get the routing wrong. I was trying to wrap the belt around the tensioner the wrong way (forward off of the alt down to the tensioner, it looked like it would work but the belt would need an extra quarter inch to make it...) Still easier than my altima, which made you get to the tensioner through the wheel well...

tonedef131
Sep 3, 2003

CornHolio posted:

I just found it. How are you supposed to get to that with the engine in the car? I thought my E36 was bad, you have to remove the airbox on that car... but I absolutely cannot see how you would get to that.
I think I stumbled upon it by accident when changing the spark plugs, but I have to assume most owners are confused as hell the first time they go to top it off. Even once you located it you have to bend your arm in between (usually hot) hoses and around the alternator just to grab the top then there is probably less than a half inch between it and the firewall. My wifes has a small leak and needs topped off every few weeks so I've gotten pretty good at reaching it blindly (now wearing a welding glove when hot) and topping it off with a funnel stuck into about a foot of tubing. There is absolutely no way you could get it in there without an extended funnel. It's a pain in the rear end but there is no way in hell I'm replacing that pump unless it is spraying fluid out, I'm guessing you would have to either pull the engine from above or the rack from below.

I've seen them squeezed into some pretty weird places in transverse engines, but why the hell isn't the BMW front and center?

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Found one of my week-old tires looking like this. :wtc:

Only registered members can see post attachments!

lazer_chicken
May 14, 2009

PEW PEW ZAP ZAP
drat dude, that sucks. WTF could have caused that? Surely you'd know if you hit something big and sharp enough to do that.

CONTENT: we took our 2008 jetta in for a recall to fix an issue that could cause an engine fire. Good to see VW keeping that reputation alive.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

lazer_chicken posted:

drat dude, that sucks. WTF could have caused that? Surely you'd know if you hit something big and sharp enough to do that.

CONTENT: we took our 2008 jetta in for a recall to fix an issue that could cause an engine fire. Good to see VW keeping that reputation alive.

No idea what could have caused it. Less than 50 miles on the tires, but it was at the Volvo dealer for warranty work at the end of last week, so I'll never know, but I know it didn't happen while I was loving driving it.

No way for me to blame the dealer, though I know it happened there. No way to blame the manufacturer, I'm hoping it's not a manufacturing defect that I'll see on other tires.

As it is, I just ordered another one from Tire Rack and I'll get it replace later on this week. :(

awesome-express
Dec 30, 2008

Looks like the dealer dropped a sharp/bigass tool on the thing.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



Crosspost from the 4x4 thread:

Well, this past week I did the most important thing in the world as it relates to getting a newer Bronco ready for off-roading. I fixed the rear window so I could take the top off! I only do some pretty light trails since the Bronco is stock, so I haven't upgraded any suspension components or tires yet, but the rear window was really bugging me because last year we went up in the mountains (me and the wife and the kids) and couldn't take the top off and enjoy the weather since the rear window wouldn't go down. I replaced the window motor, which then allowed the window to move about 2 inches down, but not all the way. To make it go down all the way, I used about a quarter can of motorcycle chain lube and a lot of manual pushing and pulling on the window arms to free up the gears. Now the window works flawlessly and my summer time fun is looking to be awesome.

destructo
Apr 29, 2006

Artworks Dewa gauge faces, KG Works cluster :smuggo:

Belldandy
Sep 11, 2001

Do not try to boost in peace, because that is impossible. Instead only try to realize the truth, there is no boost.

destructo posted:


Artworks Dewa gauge faces, KG Works cluster :smuggo:

I didn't think it was possible to make the Miata gayer but you proved me wrong.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003

Geoj posted:


e: Goddamn gasket was $11.50 at the dealer. gently caress you chain parts stores, not all Ford I4 engines are the same :argh:

Order everything from Steve @Tousley Ford. Stupid cheap on Ford parts.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Belldandy posted:

I didn't think it was possible to make the Miata gayer but you proved me wrong.

Without the stupid stars it would look pretty good, though.

Aeka 2.0
Nov 16, 2000

:ohdear: Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.




Dinosaur Gum
Got out of my Bridgestone Potenzas and got some Kumho Victor Racers.
Quite the grip for a "street" tire. Today a water bottle got stuck to my tire in a parking lot. I had to get out and pull it off. Dayum!
Not to mention I don't slide all over the place anymore.

Mr.Peabody
Jul 15, 2009
nevermind.

jshoreflyer
Jan 19, 2009

Oh You Wan Taste Rainbow? Skittle No Good Only Rice An Noodle!

Belldandy posted:

I didn't think it was possible to make the Miata gayer but you proved me wrong.

THIS made me laugh my rear end off

Is a Miata really a fruity car to drive? I like them.

ExecuDork
Feb 25, 2007

We might be fucked, sir.
Fallen Rib
Autocrossed it on Sunday (double header!) at what was billed as an Ice Dice event but in reality was gravel-cross (plus potholes of doom, naturally). Casualties of the day included a Monte Carlo that ate a cone and trashed its power steering pump (the cone shattered into 4 pieces, but we found only 3), a 323 Turbo AWD with ruined brakes, and one of the bolts holding my alternator in place - I had some angry squirrels under the hood by the end of the events.


I accidentally scraped the hood emblem off a while ago, I can't decide whether I want to wire on a plastic velociraptor or a T. rex.

I followed a friend back to his house where we installed a replacement bolt after futzing around with belts and pulleys for a while. The old bolt had backed out and at some point, probably not that day, had been ground against... something, probably one of the pulleys, completely rounding off the head. The "new" bolt was from a Peugot 505, so my Japanese car is now 0.01% French.

destructo
Apr 29, 2006

IOwnCalculus posted:

Without the stupid stars it would look pretty good, though.
That's the best part!

SimulatedWoodgrain
Oct 6, 2006
All this L67 pulley talk is pretty fresh in my mind. I just put a engine in my Bonneville swapped to a L67 from the L36, ended up replacing 3 of the 4 pulleys before it even went in as 3 were shot when I got the engine and the other had been replaced previously. Motherfuck whoever cooked up that side engine mount idea, what a pain in the rear end to get the belts on.

And like clockwork 2 weeks after its all installed the waterpump starts leaking so it all had to come back apart.

and yes, I did not know that that bolt was reverse thread and was getting very frustrated before I decided "hey what if..."

GTi_guy
Oct 21, 2003

avas ye, matey
Had the Ventus V12's installed on the Si.

Should be a great summer tire.

Omgz
Oct 5, 2008
finished installing a few things, a few more things to install this weekend.

tonedef131
Sep 3, 2003

GTi_guy posted:

Had the Ventus V12's installed on the Si.

Should be a great summer tire.
I've had mine on for about a month and although it hasn't been hot yet, coming from a winter tire 3/4" thinner I am already in love with them. I considered going with the RS3 but since this is my daily driver I wanted something that does well in the wet and these still seemed good enough to autocross on the weekends with.

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Viggen
Sep 10, 2010

by XyloJW
New (used) wheels and tires. Caps on order (no spare); contemplating aftermarket acorn style lugs for the 2K 9-5. Do not want to pay a lot, do not want rusty ones, and want to get rid of the wobbles holding the drat ugly ASAs on it along with the ASAs.

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