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It is mostly because in soviet russia spark ignited tap water plasma flame weld you. I'm gonna go cross post that in a physics thread to see if someone can explain what's going on, just 'cause I'm genuinely curious, mostly.
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Mar 31, 2011 06:19
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The Scientist posted:It is mostly because in soviet russia spark ignited tap water plasma flame weld you. I can say Hydrogen Embrittlement 
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Mar 31, 2011 06:21
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The Scientist posted:It is mostly because in soviet russia spark ignited tap water plasma flame weld you. Predicting electrolysis splitting oxygen from hydrogen and burning fire plasmas commenses from there. Also if that is the case it bothers me because I don't think we should be burning water as any kind of fuel.
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Mar 31, 2011 06:22
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SmokeyXIII posted:Predicting electrolysis splitting oxygen from hydrogen and burning fire plasmas commenses from there. Also if that is the case it bothers me because I don't think we should be burning water as any kind of fuel. Water is already burnt hydrogen... I think the water is there to assist the electrical arc creation too...
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Mar 31, 2011 06:24
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Sponge! posted:Water is already burnt hydrogen... but what about burnt hydrogen and welding rods??? i think that equals welds
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Mar 31, 2011 06:27
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The Scientist posted:Yeah man, I woulda recommended just kind of scoping out old trannies at junk yards and stuff. Then afterwards look through a couple of old gearboxes and see if there might be an easy source for the gears you need. Oh and farm equipment. Tractors have massive gear boxes. The quality should be superb. Just think about where these gears are placed and what torque they operate under.
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Mar 31, 2011 08:53
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brethren.
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SmokeyXIII posted:Predicting electrolysis splitting oxygen from hydrogen and burning fire plasmas commenses from there. Also if that is the case it bothers me because I don't think we should be burning water as any kind of fuel. No way man, I already done predicted that! http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2880864&pagenumber=103#post389882006 Only 1 reply so far, but keep an eye on it as it develops. The issue of it running off common household [American] AC voltage hasn't been addressed yet, though. Iskariot posted:Or take the damaged gears (if you have them) or the specs to the junk yard and ask the old guy running the shop if he knows a tranny that may have such gears. Given American, Asian and European cars, there has to be a wide variety to choose from. Downside is that only American cars, and maybe British ones, will be in inches. You know what idea occurred to me as I was falling asleep last night (for some reason that's when I get my best ideas. They're precious and rare so I try to hold on to them)? If you picked out a single 4wd car, the front and rear differentials should have 2 planetary gears each that are the same size. Instant source of 4 identical gears. 'Course I think the teeth might be at 45o angles, which might be a problem. Haven't looked inside a differential in a while (my mom calls them "the pumpkin" for some reason).
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Mar 31, 2011 17:00
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The welds that thing makes are atrocious because the thing is built like a drill. There's no way you can hold it comfortably to get nice precise heat to form a good puddle. It's still a pretty cool idea and looks like a decent enough cutting torch. It would be pretty convenient for those of use without all the special air equipment to make a plasma cutter work. (compressor, dryer, etc). Backyard Blacksmith posted:NOOB QUESTION AHEAD Heat treating is dependent on the type of steel you used. Oil, water, air hardening, etc. The old guys in the guild I go to just say "heat it up until this magnet doesn't stick to it anymore, quench the part you want tempered, but leave the body hot, then quickly clean the scale off so you can see the oxide layer travel to where you want the temper, and dip it in again, keep cooling it like this until the heat is gone from the body." It worked really well on that chisel I made from the coil spring. Thin knives might be a lot harder because they will cool before you can clean them, so that might take two steps and you'd quench the whole thing completely in each step. Hollow grinding requires a big-rear end grinding wheel. 10" at least depending on how much bevel you want to take off. You can do it with a belt sander too, but the contact wheel has to be, again, huge (10") unless it's a really small blade. 6 and 8" grinder will have too tight of a radius to make a nice bevel. However... if you're good with a dressing tool, you could probably make a soften the curve of 6 or 8" grinder into a sort of ghetto surface grinder. You'd need a very precise table to slide the workpiece on, and it would be dangerous as hell. By soften the curve I mean take the edges off the wheel, so instead of a |_| shape it'll look like a U. But then the widest bevel you could make with it is limited by how wide the wheel is. Unless you mounted the grinder diagonally or something. This actually sounds kinda fun, I might have to try it sometime.
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Mar 31, 2011 19:45
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What happened to Launch Missiles! homosexual robot? 
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Mar 31, 2011 22:05
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I finally found a homestuck avatar I liked. Well, had it made really. (I am not actually gay, my avatars just make it look that way, honest.) If you really miss it, you can see the original here: http://www.angryflower.com/homose.gif
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Apr 1, 2011 00:39
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Slung Blade posted:hollow grinding info Just want to expand on alternate methods. If you have a large belt grinder (2x72, like a KMG or a Bader), you can make a fake "large wheel" platen to grind on. Just trace out a 6 foot diameter circle on the floor (or something), then cut a hunk of wood to match a section of the circle. Mount that in place of a flat platen, and you have an approximated 6 foot diameter hollow grinder. This method allows for some truly cool possibilities with creating really large diameter wheel hollow grinds. Also, as for blade heat treating, what Slung Blade said. That is, it depends on the steel type. I prefer to heat treat and fully quench, then draw back a temper immediately in an oven (set for my desired hardness). Alternately, after full quench you could polish off the blade then draw to the correct color with a torch to the spine, but I prefer using an oven for more control. edit: editing to say that I was suggesting a method for a full blade hollow grind, not appropriate or necessary for an edge hollow grind. artificialj fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Apr 1, 2011 |
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Apr 1, 2011 03:04
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My grandfather is very into making knives and he makes some pretty amazing pieces. He has some pretty nice equipment, but what is the cost at the entry level to get into making blades (not counting material)?
duck hunt fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Apr 2, 2011 |
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Apr 2, 2011 21:01
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All of your spare time. Plus a couple hundred to a grand or so for some decent tools.
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Apr 2, 2011 22:34
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So I take that last troll to mean not a lot of money but a lot of time.
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Apr 2, 2011 22:37
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What does your grandpa say?
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Apr 2, 2011 22:39
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It depends on how involved you wanna get. You could make a knife out of a bigger knife with just like a file our a dremel tool. Or you could smelt your own iron ore into steel, using state of the art industrial grade equipment to keep the carbon content of the steel very precise, then a forge, anvil, and hammers to shape the orange hot steel, then a surface grinder (thousands of dollars piece of equipment) to get the blade constant to tolerances within thousands of an inch, then a lapping machine to hone the blade down using progressively finer abrasives, then a piece of leather to strop it to its final finished perfection. You will start at one end, but be prepared to spend all your resources, time, and money trying to attain the other. If you wanted to go entry level but take a modern approach, you could prolly just by some tool steel from a local steel provider, and do half decent with just, say, a good bench grinder (~$100 u.s.d.), then some whet stones and a piece of leather with polishing compound to sharpen it. That'd be like $200 tops I'd say. If you wanted to go entry level but traditional, you could probably just source scrap steel, and build yourself a forge and get a heavy chunk of metal to use as an anvil, and some hammers for maybe $20. Then you pound on that mamma jamma until its pretty close to the shape you want, then use a grinder of some kind or a dremel on it.
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Apr 2, 2011 22:57
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Check out this guy's stuff: http://www.youtube.com/user/MrIronman1979 "Blacksmithing for the broke beginner"
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Apr 2, 2011 22:58
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I wasn't trying to troll, I was being serious  Really, it will take a lot of your time to make them. Forging knives takes almost no time at all. The whole time sink is in the grinding, sanding, buffing and polishing. You'll need files, a vise, knife blanks, a grinder or three, some kind of belt sander, emery paper, polishing compound, and lots of incidentals.
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Apr 2, 2011 23:06
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So I'm finally in one place for more then a year. Getting a house again. Downside (well upside) is that it's Hawaii. There isn't much around as far as used equipment. Im guessing old-world anvils free shipping doesn't count for me. Any advice on getting equipment around here?
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Apr 3, 2011 03:59
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See if you can find some old bulldozers or heavy equipment in a scrapyard maybe? Those things were made from pretty heavy stuff. Big axles, anything like that. Failing that, you can always start diving in Pearl Harbor, I hear there's some heavy iron things in there...
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Apr 3, 2011 05:01
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oxbrain posted:I've never used them, but I can tell you that machining custom gears gets expensive in a hurry. You're using several different machines, using several different tools on each. Every time someone has to touch the part it means labor in deburring, aligning, etc. Also, cutting teeth is a slow process. It's not that slow... provided you're working with a shop that actually makes gears. Hobbing machines make pretty quick work of it. And provided you're running a standard pitch. If you're doing something silly, well.. prices get that. I'll ask my dad what the ballpark would be. ( https://www.thealliedgearco.com .. that's my dad)
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Apr 3, 2011 16:20
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Tell your dad I need a quote on a 60" Herringbone gear with 3127 teeth, with a splined hub, made out of cobalt titanium. Ask him what he'd charge me.
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Apr 3, 2011 18:20
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Also I want it shipped in bald eagle feathers.
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Apr 3, 2011 18:21
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How should I go about securing/building a gently caress-off huge work-bench? I can't really see 300-pound masses of hardwood being a thing you'd find at Lowe's, and yet it seems requisite for a lot of stuff I'll be doing, especially metalworking with a non-post vice. I can probably spin this into "baby's first welding project/excuse to buy that buzzbox you've been vaguely eying", but I don't think a workbench is an ideal first likely-to-gently caress-up project.
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Apr 3, 2011 19:45
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You don't really need that right away. I used some saw horses and a couple of ratty 2x10s for ages. I've since upgraded to an old door on some ratty saw horses. Work's great, dirt cheap.
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Apr 3, 2011 19:56
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I was only concerned because I'll almost certainly be doing a lot of work directly on my vice for some time (anywhere it can replace an anvil/hardie hole, basically). I've got a coupla huge rounds cut from some big trees we cut down a while back, I might bolt the vice to one of them for the time being as a compromise. E: That reminds me- should I get a well-built ~nice vice~ or cheap out, on the assumption it'll be a total loss in vice terms after a couple of months? Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Apr 3, 2011 |
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Apr 3, 2011 21:20
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You should take those logs and cut 'em up the middle with a good chainsaw, and use whatever method you like to get them semi-flat, then like, IDK, cut some square notches and attach some 4x4's to them and a couple pieces of lumber horizontally for support. The thing that pisses me off about cheap vices after some use is that they get all sloppy, and sometimes screws fall out and you keep screwing them in and they keep falling out. Basically any wrong except the utmost in bad design (which is not a rare thing) can be righted by us, the crafty, the doers, the problems solvers, the Americans! The Canadians! Those who fix, who mend, who repair, who improve, who rebuild; Oooorah! Get Some! Anyway, see if there are any fatal flaws in a vice you got your eye on, and if not, or if its something you're sure you can work around, go for it. Bonehead: Exhaust leak in my old Honda accord. Manifold Gasket: $7 usd. So hear I am thinking I can fix something for $7. Then I find out that most of the bolts relating to my exhaust system have the temper of a ball of tinfoil. And covered in more rust than I imagine the hull of an ocean going cargo vessel. And have dirt and sand caked on so hard it has to come off with a file. Ran outta light, ran into mosquitoes. I'll finish tommorrow, but the bad news is that I don't have a car to drive to get the penetrating oil I should got a long time ago, nor the dies that aren't as hosed up as the cheap ones I have currently.
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Apr 4, 2011 02:23
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Any tricks for getting a stuck Morse taper drill chuck out of a kind of crummy old mill/drill? As far as I know, this chuck had been in the machine for a decade or so, until I took it out (with no drama), put in another tool holder briefly (also with no drama), then put the first one back in. It was clean when I put it in, and I don't think I went past "snug" on the drawbar, but it is well and truly wedged in there now. I've given the drawbar a fairly good pounding with no sign of breaking it free, and it's currently soaking in PB blaster poured down the spindle. Any other advice?
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Apr 4, 2011 02:31
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Were you bearing down on the spindle against the work piece particularly hard or something? I thought I had a good answer for you when I read that it had been stuck in there for a decade, but that you got it out  First thing I was gonna say is something I learned about when reading about how to get the "stump jumper" free from the bottom of the deck of our bush hog. The stump jumper is just a protective splined-hub that holds the massive blades on a bush hog as they rotate at like 300 rpms or something. Its supposed to be robust enough to withstand the normal pressure of the blades swinging - which is so great that it regularly killed the tractors diesel engine even though it was hydraulically powered, and also shook the bloody hell both its 5' of mowing surface and the entire tractor to the point that 1-1/2 castle nuts were vibrating loose. Anyway, the trick is that you heat the mating surfaces up with a torch, and then touch it with a candle and the melted wax is drawn up in there via capillary action. I guess the wax acts as a lubricant, although I've only ever seen it used as such when skateboarders wax a rail they're about to skate. In surfing, in fact, wax is used as the exact opposite of a lubricant. Or you could try a gear puller. Or one of those little hydraulic ram sets I've seen with like a hand powered pump, those are pretty cool. You could try securing the extended spindle (just the chuck, specifically) like to the bed or some other immovable surface, then try and crank it back up using the rack-and-pinion's mechanical advantage; that'd be convenient. Did you whack all along the sides of the spindle with the flat face of like, say, a ball peen? Maybe take a piece of mild steel (so it mushrooms instead of defacing the chuck) and whack the top of the steel downwards. And next time like smear some lithium grease all over it before you put it in, I guess. They make anti-seize compound, but I've never seen the price and in my mind its probably similar to that of thread-locker.
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Apr 4, 2011 03:51
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The Scientist posted:Anyway, the trick is that you heat the mating surfaces up with a torch, and then touch it with a candle and the melted wax is drawn up in there via capillary action. I guess the wax acts as a lubricant, although I've only ever seen it used as such when skateboarders wax a rail they're about to skate. In surfing, in fact, wax is used as the exact opposite of a lubricant. Wax repels water, so it keeps the surfboard "dry" to give your feet some non-wet grip. Don't know that it helps that much, but yeah. I think the wax idea could work. I don't think it'll hurt, either, if it doesn't work.
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Apr 4, 2011 04:46
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The Scientist posted:Were you bearing down on the spindle against the work piece particularly hard or something?
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Apr 4, 2011 14:00
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The Scientist posted:Tell your dad I need a quote on a 60" Herringbone gear with 3127 teeth, with a splined hub, made out of cobalt titanium. Ask him what he'd charge me. You'd need to supply the material, and he can't do herringbone. He doesn't have the proper shaper to do it. So, since he'd need to buy "tooling".. you'd be looking at 2 million dollars. Provided you can get the slug of "cobalt titanium". Ambrose Burnside posted:How should I go about securing/building a gently caress-off huge work-bench? I can't really see 300-pound masses of hardwood being a thing you'd find at Lowe's, and yet it seems requisite for a lot of stuff I'll be doing, especially metalworking with a non-post vice. Not at lowes, but menards has some decent workbenches for sale. Every workbench I see would need leg reinforcement for me to be happy with it. But they are out there! Otherwise, buy some 2x6's and start bolting and glueing them into a nice heavy work surface.
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Apr 4, 2011 14:27
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King of Gulps posted:Any tricks for getting a stuck Morse taper drill chuck out of a kind of crummy old mill/drill? As far as I know, this chuck had been in the machine for a decade or so, until I took it out (with no drama), put in another tool holder briefly (also with no drama), then put the first one back in. It was clean when I put it in, and I don't think I went past "snug" on the drawbar, but it is well and truly wedged in there now. I've given the drawbar a fairly good pounding with no sign of breaking it free, and it's currently soaking in PB blaster poured down the spindle. Any other advice? What do you mean by drawbar exactly? The tool you used to tighten it up? Mill drill's typically have a hollow shaft that the chuck fits into. You should be able to take out the threaded rod that hold it in from the top of the machine, and use a sturdy rod and a hammer to lightly tap the chuck out from the inside. If the threaded rod is still strong (ie not rusted into 1/2 its original size) just unscrew it so it sticks up from the top of the mill head, and tap it with a brass hammer or something. Your unit might be different though, this is just my experience.
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Apr 4, 2011 14:46
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Slung Blade posted:What do you mean by drawbar exactly? The tool you used to tighten it up? The drawbar is the threaded rod, I've given it all manners of whacks, up to about three-quarters of the force I'd reasonably consider inflicting on such a finely crafted piece of chinese metal. I figured I'd give the penetrating goo time to work and look for other ideas before going whole hog. You've described it perfectly - but taps are not doing very much.
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Apr 4, 2011 15:47
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Ambrose Burnside posted:How should I go about securing/building a gently caress-off huge work-bench? I can't really see 300-pound masses of hardwood being a thing you'd find at Lowe's, and yet it seems requisite for a lot of stuff I'll be doing, especially metalworking with a non-post vice. I can probably spin this into "baby's first welding project/excuse to buy that buzzbox you've been vaguely eying", but I don't think a workbench is an ideal first likely-to-gently caress-up project. I've been reasonably happy with a bench I built out of Gorilla Rack stuff from Menards. They make bench-height legs and they're relatively stout welded steel, then you can buy their particleboard shelves which are about 3/4" thick and lay inside the rails. Easy to add one or two shelves below the benchtop, just get more rails. I'm not impressed with the drawers, pretty flimsy for the price. The cool thing about the Gorilla stuff is you bang it together with a mallet and it self-wedges. It's really sturdy, when I hand-plane against it nothing rocks. All told it was probably about $80 for a six-foot bench. Were I to do it again, I'd probably fasten another top on there because with the rails, there's a lip and a trough that catches a lot of junk in it. Mounting my wood vise was a small project because the rail isn't anything like a flat top so I had to build up some blocks and lagbolt the sandwich together. I had to drill some holes in the steel and it was surprisingly hard stuff, not your average crappy shelving steel made from melted Yugos.
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Apr 4, 2011 15:50
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Nerobro posted:You'd need to supply the material, and he can't do herringbone. He doesn't have the proper shaper to do it. Thanks man, you made me laugh this morning. He uses a shaper to do gears? I didn't know people still used those. Only reason I even know what a shaper is, is because I was reading this machinist's book I check out from the library 6 months ago from like 1960 that I still haven't returned.
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Apr 4, 2011 15:53
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The Scientist posted:Thanks man, you made me laugh this morning. He uses a shaper to do gears? I didn't know people still used those. Only reason I even know what a shaper is, is because I was reading this machinist's book I check out from the library 6 months ago from like 1960 that I still haven't returned. He's got some shapers used for gear cutting. He's got hobbing machines and grinders too. I said shaper because the only way you can make a herringbone gear is with a very specialized shaper. They're also the only good way to cut internal gear teeth.
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Apr 4, 2011 16:03
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King of Gulps posted:The drawbar is the threaded rod, I've given it all manners of whacks, up to about three-quarters of the force I'd reasonably consider inflicting on such a finely crafted piece of chinese metal. I figured I'd give the penetrating goo time to work and look for other ideas before going whole hog. You've described it perfectly - but taps are not doing very much. Ok, give it a day or two for the penetrating oil to work some more, and if that doesn't work, set the threaded rod to be 1/4" above where it seats, and then grab the biggest sledge you have and hammer once really hard. Threaded rods are replaceable if you bend it.
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Apr 4, 2011 16:12
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Now that I have copious amounts of spare time, I can finally post up some of the silly crap I have been making when the mood strikes me. I like to take old car parts and re-purpose them into impractical weapons. This first one is a "mace"  It is made from a transmission output shaft and gear along with a trailer hitch ball. This next one is a "mace" as well.   It is made from a short drive shaft from a 76 Chevy 4x4, an eye ring, and a pieces from a Jeep Quadratrac transfer case. This one is a smasher. This was the first of these I made and I used to help dis-assemble The 76 Chevy that the above piece came from.  It is made up of parts of 2 Dana 44 axle shafts, a ball hitch, a socket, and half of a steel ring. The last one is an "ax"  It is made up of part of a Dana 44 axle shaft, and old ax blade, and 2 ball hitches. I have no idea why I make this stuff, other than it tickles my fancy.
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Apr 5, 2011 23:40
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| # ? May 24, 2024 21:36 |
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Gwamp posted:Now that I have copious amounts of spare time, I can finally post up some of the silly crap I have been making when the mood strikes me. I like to take old car parts and re-purpose them into impractical weapons. I LOVE these. I wonder if there's anything you can do make a more hand-friendly handle. They may remain impractical, but if they feel great to hold, I think that would add a lot to the appeal.
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Apr 5, 2011 23:46
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