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gently caress. gently caress That's the kind of poo poo I imagined cobbling together when I started looking into blacksmithing. They're all awesome 
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Apr 6, 2011 01:40
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Ambrose Burnside posted:gently caress. gently caress If you want to make stuff like that you don't want to get into blacksmithing, you want to get into welding/grinding. Upside, 110v buzzbox, rods, an angle grinder, and a lot of sandpaper is cheap (Some craigslist trawling can find you the whole set for less then $100 I'm sure). Downside, you will never be making things 'from scratch', just putting things together, you won't get to play with heat tempers or feel the impact of a hammer. (serviceability is also an issue, but a minor one, you won't be making any good blades until you've had stupid amounts of practice blacksmithing anyway).
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Apr 6, 2011 01:50
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Holy poo poo that is some cool stuff. Absolutely love the warhammer/smasher. Haha, awesome.
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Apr 6, 2011 02:00
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jovial_cynic posted:I LOVE these. I wonder if there's anything you can do make a more hand-friendly handle. They may remain impractical, but if they feel great to hold, I think that would add a lot to the appeal. All of them are "useable" to some degree. The hand ax chops a mean piece of wood and I would not want to get wacked up side the head by any of these. The ax and the dive shaft mace are the lightest of them. Some of these are chrome-moly. Wonderfully tough heavy stuff. Especially the tranny shaft mace. That thing is a two hander. I guess that I could wrap the grip areas with leather to make them more user friendly. Although I used one of them quite a bit with just some leather gloves and it was fine. Got quite a work out doing it. Punching holes in a truck body was fun! I made all of these with a Lincoln 255 welder, a drop band saw, and a bench grinder that has a coarse grinding wheel and a large wire wheel on it. Having a well equipped home shop is nice.
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Apr 6, 2011 02:05
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I want that smasher so loving bad. The second mace is also really cool. And the first mace. And the ax. I want to build stuff like that so bad.
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Apr 6, 2011 02:14
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Backyard Blacksmith posted:I want that smasher so loving bad. The second mace is also really cool. And the first mace. And the ax. I guess all of them are for sale if anyone wanted one bad enough. I just make them and hang them on my shop wall. If anyone is interested, make me an offer. Just remember, these things are loving heavy and shipping will be a fair bit of coin.
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Apr 6, 2011 02:33
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Gwamp posted:I guess all of them are for sale if anyone wanted one bad enough. I just make them and hang them on my shop wall. If anyone is interested, make me an offer. Just remember, these things are loving heavy and shipping will be a fair bit of coin. Thanks, but I'm broke as hell. And it's something that I'd like to make myself. I just need to find a better junkyard, and more time.
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Apr 6, 2011 02:38
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Backyard Blacksmith posted:Thanks, but I'm broke as hell. And it's something that I'd like to make myself. I just need to find a better junkyard, and more time. They are fun to make. Junkyards and garage sales are the best places to get materials for these. That and have friends that are heavy into old cars.
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Apr 6, 2011 03:01
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Gwamp posted:Now that I have copious amounts of spare time, I can finally post up some of the silly crap I have been making when the mood strikes me. I like to take old car parts and re-purpose them into impractical weapons. Sort of related my old wood turning teacher would take drive shafts and make turning gouges out of them.
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Apr 6, 2011 03:35
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Linux Assassin posted:If you want to make stuff like that you don't want to get into blacksmithing, you want to get into welding/grinding. Upside, 110v buzzbox, rods, an angle grinder, and a lot of sandpaper is cheap (Some craigslist trawling can find you the whole set for less then $100 I'm sure). Downside, you will never be making things 'from scratch', just putting things together, you won't get to play with heat tempers or feel the impact of a hammer. (serviceability is also an issue, but a minor one, you won't be making any good blades until you've had stupid amounts of practice blacksmithing anyway). My first attempts at tomahawks. An old rail spike and carriage bolt. Small bit of cheating with an angle grinder on the bolt. They not 'good', but they were fun to make. I just have to heat treat them and finish the handles.  
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Apr 6, 2011 11:25
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Cool stuff. Are the eyes circular or oval shaped? or tear drop even? I need to make an oval drift, but I'm having a hard time thinking of a way to make it good enough to drift holes for hammer handles.
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Apr 6, 2011 14:44
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For hammers specifically, can't you punch the eye with a round drift and then dress the sides flat, ending up with an oval eye?
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Apr 6, 2011 15:19
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I did a job test yesterday for chrome carbine overlay. It's pretty much the worst rod I've ever used in my career. We were using 1/4" rod and it burns at about 70amps. It's a tubular rod with flux on the inside and outside and it flakes off in the weirdest spots, much worse than regular fingernailing. Also the weld cracks across it as you can see in the pictures as you are welding. It's so weird to hear *ping ping.... PING... PING!!!* while you are welding your piece. Here is my vertical.  And my horizontal.  Really ugly stuff but I passed the test and now im off to Fort McMurray to fill the bank up again.
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Apr 6, 2011 16:48
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Ambrose Burnside posted:For hammers specifically, can't you punch the eye with a round drift and then dress the sides flat, ending up with an oval eye?  That... I.. yes, of course, it all makes sense. gently caress why didn't I think of that. 
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Apr 6, 2011 16:48
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Ambrose Burnside posted:For hammers specifically, can't you punch the eye with a round drift and then dress the sides flat, ending up with an oval eye? That's pretty clever. Slung Blade, if Doc Brown were here, he'd say "Marty, you're not thing fourth dimensionally!" Ambrose, I've been watching the rebroadcast of Ken Burn's the Civil War (the American Civil War, that is), and for the first time ever found out that you're account has a name sake.
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Apr 6, 2011 18:07
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Slung Blade posted:Cool stuff. Are the eyes circular or oval shaped? or tear drop even? Circular, not oval. Because I'm dumb as well (and because there wasn't an oval or teardrop drift at work) But, I'd planned on making my own handles anyway, so uh, it was intentional
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Apr 6, 2011 21:46
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The Scientist posted:Ambrose, I've been watching the rebroadcast of Ken Burn's the Civil War (the American Civil War, that is), and for the first time ever found out that you're account has a name sake. Well, natch. If I didn't have this stupid loving Forums Cancer you'd see my titillating moustache av  #driftchat: is there any reason you can't make hex drifts? It seems like a stupid excessive thing, but as long as you can buy hex bar alongside normal stock it seems like a neat little touch to stuff you're punching (and you could probably use it for handles proper, as it wouldn't spin like it would in a round hole). And if you could make Hex Handles, it'd seem like a reasonable compromise on the usual oval/teardrop drifts- it's probably way, way easier to buy some hex bar and grind it to a taper, rather than free-hand forming a rounded drift. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Apr 6, 2011 |
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Apr 6, 2011 23:42
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They make these things: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZpWcl1BKVk Which is substantially different than what you guys are talking about. But achieves the same ends. It boggles my mind that there are spindles on machines that can bear down on a workpiece with the same pressure as like a hydraulic press.
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Apr 7, 2011 01:39
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Well, natch. If I didn't have this stupid loving Forums Cancer you'd see my titillating moustache av Well we do know a guy know.....
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Apr 7, 2011 15:27
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Well, natch. If I didn't have this stupid loving Forums Cancer you'd see my titillating moustache av Nope, no reason at all. I've seen people punch square holes in things, all you need is some square bar. With round punches, it's a little easier. You can use a smaller punch to get through faster and then drift it out. With shaped holes, you usually have to punch with the size you want the hole to be. You can drift them out, but you have to line it up perfectly or it goes all lopsided on you.
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Apr 7, 2011 15:46
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Been away for the forums for a couple weeks... just wanted to say to everyone who posted pictures of all the great welds and weapons/art, etc., keep it coming! Great work, everyone.
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Apr 12, 2011 06:16
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King of Gulps posted:Any tricks for getting a stuck Morse taper drill chuck out of a kind of crummy old mill/drill? As far as I know, this chuck had been in the machine for a decade or so, until I took it out (with no drama), put in another tool holder briefly (also with no drama), then put the first one back in. It was clean when I put it in, and I don't think I went past "snug" on the drawbar, but it is well and truly wedged in there now. I've given the drawbar a fairly good pounding with no sign of breaking it free, and it's currently soaking in PB blaster poured down the spindle. Any other advice? Welp, this has been a learning experience. I popped the chuck off its jacobs taper, then tried literally every suggestion (short of drilling, collapsing, and rehoning the taper), here and elsewhere on the internet to get the morse taper part out of the spindle, including:
The final solution: (test setup, obviously not squared)   This guy at first proceeded to do nothing more than mushroom one end of a piece of 7/16" CR rod, while extruding the other end into the 3/8"-16 drawbar hole. One piece of 0.484" tool steel rod later, the arbor made a super loud BANG and released. No abrasion, no signs of galling, no debris in the female spindle taper. Everything's clean and straight, except for the rod, which ALSO showed a little circle where it pressed into the drawbar hole. Overall, I seriously don't know what the gently caress? I'm usually super cautious when torqueing things, I guess I'll get someone's little sister to tighten my drawbar from now on or 
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Apr 13, 2011 04:04
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God drat man, how the gently caress did it get stuck so bad  Good on you for getting it out though. That's quite the list of attempts.
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Apr 13, 2011 05:47
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King of Gulps posted:get someone's little sister to tighten my drawbar  For serious though, I'm glad that you got it out.
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Apr 13, 2011 06:47
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Yeah man, seriously, that sounds like a hell of a lot of work. Must have been gratifying as hell, especially once it came out and looked damage free ( )Any chance you could take some pics of the face of the taper part of the chuck that your rendered asunder*? I was thinking about suggesting just some like, fine grit sanding to make sure its billiard-ball smooth. But I wouldn't, in good conscience, recommend that 'cause I'm liable to believe what you said about it being in perfect shape still (don't know how or why, but I have no reason not to believe you). Also, you're gonna use some grease in there next time, right?  edit: I wonder if its sposed to be "wrended asunder"
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Apr 13, 2011 17:55
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am I reading that wrong, or did it take multiple attempts with the bottle jack, including one that almost damaged the jack?  e: also, if you put up pictures can you include one of the double-hosed cold-rolled rod?
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Apr 13, 2011 18:03
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King of Gulps posted:Welp, this has been a learning experience. I popped the chuck off its jacobs taper, then tried literally every suggestion (short of drilling, collapsing, and rehoning the taper), here and elsewhere on the internet to get the morse taper part out of the spindle, including:
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Apr 14, 2011 00:08
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King Nothing posted:Alright so I called Sears, and got lost in the phone menus so that didn't happen. I called Thomas Wieland, and he only does pet grooming stuff, so that didn't work. Finally I called Precision Sharpening, and that seemed like a good place. I brought my old snips, plus a brand new pair for comparison, and a platter to practice cutting on. I explained that the last time someone tried to sharpen these, they came back useless for cutting metal. The 50-ish guy I talked to said they did snips for artists doing metalwork all the time, and it wouldn't be a problem. Just an update on this, I e-mailed this photo set to Fiskars and asked if they had any thoughts on why sharpening went so poorly. They said it should be possible to sharpen them, and also sent me two new pairs of snips for free! That's pretty cool of them.
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Apr 16, 2011 22:42
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Cross-posting from my SA-Mart thread. This is my favorite figurine that I've welded up, and I figured I'd show it off: dragon skeleton     and bonus VIDEO so you can see the whole thing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aUAVdy3N6A
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Apr 17, 2011 00:31
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The Scientist posted:
 ...but it feels smooth to the touch, and looks like this in normal light:  Ambrose Burnside posted:am I reading that wrong, or did it take multiple attempts with the bottle jack, including one that almost damaged the jack? Ambrose Burnside posted:e: also, if you put up pictures can you include one of the double-hosed cold-rolled rod?  and this (extrusion is kind of lemon shaped from two attempts, both slightly off center. The little hole was to screw a pin into that then would fit into the drawbar hole, hopefully centering the rod):  I probably could have continued, and gotten the arbor out with the cold rolled pusher, but on the other hand I could have mushroomed it bad enough to get wedged into the spindle so I said screw it and got this (Like "W1" tool steel I think? Still deformed a little.):  Random Number posted:Is the little loving clit thing up inside the spindle worn down? if so you might have missed the channel or something and torqued onto that thing and when you drilled it just hosed it worse.
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Apr 17, 2011 03:05
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Hi all! I got a new welder last week, a Hobart 140 mig. I am very excited about it as I can now melt metal together! It has a very stable arc and makes a nice weld on flux core or solid wire w/ gas. The first thing I did of course was weld up a welding cart with it.    I still have to make handles for pushing it around, and I left room in the back so I can add a larger gas bottle in the future. I also made this bench out of square tubing.  My girlfriend wants me to make some wall art stuff for her that she has printed out pics of then my next project is another one of these because my brother wants one.  Chauncey fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Apr 17, 2011 |
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Apr 17, 2011 04:42
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Maybe you guys can help me out with this one. My dad bought the stuff pictured below at an auction yesterday. There are quite a few hammers and dies, and a couple pairs of tongs. He plans on reselling all of it at a flea market, and wanted some input on suggested prices. Any ideas on the value or quality of this stuff? We're not very familiar with blacksmithing equipment.    Also, I got this bad rear end 5" wilton vise. It is freaking huge, and in great shape. I'm keeping this thing for when I get my own shop. 
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Apr 17, 2011 16:25
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This thread suddenly has some awesome poo poo in it.King Nothing posted:Just an update on this, I e-mailed this photo set to Fiskars [...] and also sent me two new pairs of snips for free! That's pretty cool of them. That is awesome. When you find a brand that evokes brand loyalty (for the right reasons), you stick with it. Problem solved,  , huh?jovial_cynic posted:dragon skeleton I mean this 100% man; that's amazing. Its beautiful. It belongs in an art museum. King of Gulps posted:
I think he's talking about the other kind of taper; I think its Morse taper (?) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morse_taper#Morse See how its got that flat part at the top of the taper - a little like a flat head screw driver? (My dad calls flat head's "standard" [as opposed to phillips] am I'm inclined to continue that trend except idk if anyone else would know what I'm talking about]) In fact, I find it a little strange that this piece doesn't have one of those. How does it even get held in the spindle and get kept from spinning under load? It almost seems like that tapered piece pictured would fall straight out of the drat spindle. It defies logic. Anyway, although I think you might know more about it than me, I was thinking that what I would do is sand it with some 320 grit and then work my way up from there, going pretty high. Make that mamma jamma smooth. Then before putting it back in next time, smear it with one hell of a lot of grease. Chauncey posted:[...] a Hobart 140 mig [...] This is all excellent. Several orders of magnitude greater than the best I could possibly have come up with for my first welding attempts. I wanna know more about that articulating sander in the last picture. Did you make that yourself? What was it like getting the tolerances right so that there'd be no slack in the belt? I have a feeling that hobart's gonna treat you well.
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Apr 17, 2011 16:34
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King of Gulps posted:Addendum to this: Is it an R8 taper? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morse_taper#R8 because if that is the case do not use any grease. Also, if that is the case, perhaps it was stuck in there because the collet itself was still tightened around the taper. (which would be a huge  situation, but I wouldn't blame you one bit - wouldn't be the first time for me, that's for drat sure)
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Apr 17, 2011 16:40
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The tang on the end of a Morse taper shank(the flat part) is for ejection from lathe tailstocks. You wind the barrel in until a button inside the tailstock pushes on it and forces the tapers apart. Also for when using a drift to remove it from a drill press. The part is kept from spinning inside the taper simply by the fit of the taper. Thanks for the comments on my cart, I am very happy with it. I will paint it when all is done. Hobart is owned by Miller and the welder is made in USA so I have high hopes for it. I'm not exactly a novice welder but I have basically zero time on a wire feed machine. I'm used to tig(not even very good at that). I built the belt grinder myself. It's based on the KMG grinder. I made it from looking at pics on the internet and made a 72 inch loop of tape or something to figure out my dimensions and still left a lot of length on tooling arm to make sure I could tension the belt. I had a hell of a time getting the belt to track straight until I put a ~1 deg. crown on the drive and tensioner wheels. All in all, I learned a lot of lessons the hard way building this one and the next one will be that much better for it! The tensioner is spring loaded like so to take up any slack.  If you have any more questions I'd be glad to answer. Edit: Bonus action shot w/ a decent camera!  Chauncey fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Apr 19, 2011 |
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Apr 17, 2011 17:45
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The Scientist posted:I think he's talking about the other kind of taper; I think its Morse taper (?) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morse_taper#Morse This is definitely a Morse taper, which will either have the tang (as linked above), or the drawbar hole on the top (as in this piece). The tang doesn't do anything to secure the taper (nor does the drawbar, in theory)- it's strictly friction, and enough of it apparently to support a car (or resist a two ton jack) if you combine the mechanical advantage of the screw (the overtightened drawbar) with that of a wedge (the taper itself). Oddly, I can't find any replacements (since I chopped off the Jacobs end of the arbor to get a better surface to drill into) with a drawbar hole, all the new ones have a tang. e: Random Number posted:Is the little loving clit thing up inside the spindle worn down? if so you might have missed the channel or something and torqued onto that thing and when you drilled it just hosed it worse. 
King of Gulps fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Apr 17, 2011 |
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Apr 17, 2011 18:06
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waffleking posted:Maybe you guys can help me out with this one. My dad bought the stuff pictured below at an auction yesterday. There are quite a few hammers and dies, and a couple pairs of tongs. He plans on reselling all of it at a flea market, and wanted some input on suggested prices. Any ideas on the value or quality of this stuff? We're not very familiar with blacksmithing equipment. The tongs look well made, but they're pretty generic. Just flat stock holders from what I can see. 5-20 bucks maybe? The hardie tools, the things with the iron shanks on them, look to be pretty good. They fit into the square hole on the anvil and the working face points up, can you get some shots of that so I can see their condition? If they are in as good of shape as the shanks look to be, they're reasonably valuable. Brand new they're about 20-70 bucks depending on what shape and what tool material they're made from. Used, somewhat less. Those top dies (hammers shaped like U and such) usually are partnered with a mirrored bottom hardie tool of the same shape, not always, but generally. Do you have matching sets for them? Or maybe the guy had a big cast iron swage block (looks like a jigsaw puzzle piece and weighs about 100-300 pounds)? If you just have the top ones, the value will be somewhat less. Given how rusty they look, you could probably get 10-30 bucks for them. Clean them up a little if you can, you might get a bit more. That axe looks amazing. No idea what it would be worth though. Blacksmith's Depot will give you a good idea of what these are worth new: http://www.blacksmithsdepot.com/
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Apr 18, 2011 07:09
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Hopefully this is the right place to ask: I'm signing up for a welding class, as a hobbyist. What I want is to get a basic level of skill in welding, so I can do some simple tasks on my own as needed. I'm doing this at the local community college, but I am not a resident and will be paying out-of-state tuition. As such, I want to get the most bang for my buck, and take the course that will give me the most widely-usable welding skill(s). So I have two choices: oxy-acetylene welding/cutting, or shielded metallic arc welding 1 (there are 5 levels of this course total, but I would just do the first, at least for now.) Me and a buddy are doing this. We originally figured on just doing the arc welding, since we were guessing that was the most "normal" type of welding we would encounter. The guy doing the orientation just sort of put us in with the oxy cut/weld group, but I think he did that since everyone else there is doing this as part of the program in order to get a job in the industry and that's the first course. The instructor(s) said we could do it either way, though, so I'm just not really sure what I should go for. Of course, oxy cut/weld isn't a pre-requisite for the arc welding course, but I'm sure they teach some skills that would be useful there. So yeah, what say you, or SomethingAwful Oracle? Where will I get the most bang for my buck, from oxy weld/cut, or from arc welding? The course descriptions, as short as they are: oxy cut/weld, smaw.
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Apr 18, 2011 17:04
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Slung Blade posted:The tongs look well made, but they're pretty generic. Just flat stock holders from what I can see. 5-20 bucks maybe? Thanks for the info, he has fifty bucks in everything there except the axe, which was like ten, so I can tell him he did ok.
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Apr 18, 2011 17:23
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Bad Munki posted:Hopefully this is the right place to ask: First course I took was O/A. Very helpful when starting out, it's so slow that it makes it very easy to see how the puddle develops and it allows you to control the heat. I have not done any O/A stuff since that course though, but it was still very helpful. However, given that the cost might be too high, I'm sure you can get an excellent understanding starting with the arc welding. My advice would be to take both if you can afford it, or just the arc if you can only swing one. Waffleking: you're welcome, but remember you'll only be able to get anything approaching those prices with the right audience.
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Apr 18, 2011 19:11
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