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guidoanselmi posted:I don't think I've shot a roll of ektar I was happy with, but I'm def in the minority. it's latitude is less than slide film and that's too fickle for me. I would argue that it's latitude is slightly better than slide (velvia for sure, maybe not kodak slide) but I'm not sure if it's worse than Portra. Here's a nice comparison so you can decide.
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Apr 3, 2011 07:29
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the first time I shot ektar I was spending time in joshua tree np. I found velvia 50 to be more forgiving. ektar:    velvia:   
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Apr 3, 2011 20:51
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atomicthumbs posted:I'm thinking of trying something for landscapes with more dynamic range than Velvia. What're you guys' opinions on Ektar 100? You could always shoot a fine grained negative film for the latitude and then change the saturation in post. As long as you are scanning the film anyways.
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Apr 3, 2011 22:31
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Edit: Moved to the other thread
Mannequin fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Apr 4, 2011 |
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Apr 4, 2011 03:07
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orenji fucked around with this message at 10:11 on Aug 23, 2023 |
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Apr 4, 2011 03:23
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orenji posted:I've just started using 35mm B&W film for a class I'm taking... do you guys have any suggestions on what kind of pen to use on contact sheets (proof sheets)? My initial thought was 'sharpie', but I'm guessing that it won't show up on the black background of the sheet. Paint pens? Some kind of coloured pencil? What do you guys use? I would use a red grease pencil.
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Apr 4, 2011 03:47
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Just got some film processed from my trip to San Francisco, haven't done any cropping/straightening, but I'm pretty pleased with the film that came out. Something about film just feels...I dont know, It has a different quality than digital that I really did. And its weird starting in digital and switching to film. Most of these are pretty much just street snapshots (with my Nikkormat FT2), but I dig em. Hotel Kabuki 2 by zachary.spradlin, on Flickr  Red Door 2 by zachary.spradlin, on Flickr This guy is loving awesome, if you're in SF and near Japantown go eat at the Red Door Cafe.  1135560-R2-027-12 by zachary.spradlin, on Flickr
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Apr 4, 2011 04:53
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I just inherited a Canon T50! Apparently, according to the lens cap, the official camera of the 1984 Olympic Games! The owner is my wife's grandfather, who hasn't really ever used it, and let his daughter borrow it, apparently it doesn't work, she's an idiot though probably couldn't use it right. This guy mows his lawns a very specific way and makes sure every blade of grass is in the right spot, rebuilds cars and poo poo, he keeps all of his belongings pristine and in perfect condition. The camera might as well be brand new, this thing is absolutely pristine. Also...came with a 50-200mm Macro lens! And a Canon Speed light, though someone left a battery in there and there's corrosion or something, I tried cleaning it up but I still can't get it to work... Either way, its pretty drat cool, even if it only shoots in 'Program' mode.  Ignore the clutter and iPhone picture quality.
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Apr 4, 2011 17:02
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I'm looking at a couple of Canon AE-1s that popped up on Craigslist and should hopefully get a chance to check both of them out in the next day or two. Anything I should be looking out for in particular on these, besides a functioning meter (i.e., reads somewhere in the same ballpark as my DSLR) and a lack of squealing noises from the aperture mechanism when I fire the shutter? (Well, light seals too but that's q quick fix and I'd be thrilled if that were the only problem.)
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Apr 4, 2011 22:17
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Welp, today I walked into the camera store to drop off my film and walked out with a job offer. 
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Apr 5, 2011 00:01
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Beerios posted:I'm looking at a couple of Canon AE-1s that popped up on Craigslist and should hopefully get a chance to check both of them out in the next day or two. Anything I should be looking out for in particular on these, besides a functioning meter (i.e., reads somewhere in the same ballpark as my DSLR) and a lack of squealing noises from the aperture mechanism when I fire the shutter? (Well, light seals too but that's q quick fix and I'd be thrilled if that were the only problem.) Fire the shutter with the back open. I have a AE1 that I thought was OK, but the second shutter won't open. And I have one with the squeak which you will know if you hear it.My attempts at camera repair have a 100% kill rate so I guess I'm stuck with a couple of punk Ae1's.
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Apr 5, 2011 07:07
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atomicthumbs posted:Welp, today I walked into the camera store to drop off my film and walked out with a job offer. They've probably been waiting for a film user to walk through the door for ages. Congrats!
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Apr 5, 2011 07:09
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http://re35.net/index.html Haha how did I miss this? It's pretty nicely done though for what it is.
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Apr 5, 2011 10:59
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l33tc4k30fd00m posted:http://re35.net/index.html Haha how did I miss this? It's pretty nicely done though for what it is. I like all the it's real, it's not, and oh good please exist out on the interweb about this. I guess this is what we get with large world wide unemployment, vast and cruel April fools jokes.
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Apr 5, 2011 12:12
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Ferris Bueller posted:I like all the it's real, it's not, and oh good please exist out on the interweb about this. I guess this is what we get with large world wide unemployment, vast and cruel April fools jokes. Quite a bunch of photo mischief going around lately. I like this one, and all the folks who took it seriously: http://www.theinvisiblecamera.com/  e: looks like they fessed up on the main site finally. Here's the video that was there before: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWU3-gA3ueo&feature=player_embedded
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Apr 6, 2011 00:09
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is go
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l33tc4k30fd00m posted:http://re35.net/index.html Haha how did I miss this? It's pretty nicely done though for what it is. I wish this existed 
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Apr 6, 2011 01:03
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I know nothing about digital image sensors. But, why would it have to be flexible? Surely a plate structure that's 35mm tall and whatever wide enough to reach behind a shutter from a bundle of electronics in the film cartridge position would be sufficient? There's no movement (don't let anything reach into the winder mechanism) required, so a flexible sensor isn't required. Plus, many old SLRs had replaceable backs; what's stopping someone putting the sensor onto a back that replaces the back of a SLR? I really hope this rather cool April Fool's prank leads to a real product. Seems possible, at least, to me.
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Apr 6, 2011 04:09
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Martytoof posted:I wish this existed Same here. I would totally buy it just so that I could enjoy the use of my FE2 without having to wait for the film. I'm sure the old-school Minolta users would go nuts for one of these, too.
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Apr 6, 2011 04:22
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ExecuDork posted:what's stopping someone putting the sensor onto a back that replaces the back of a SLR? Nothing, and it's been done. Here's a recent ebay auction of a Nikon F3 with a Kodak sensor: http://nikonrumors.com/2011/04/02/this-is-the-digital-nikon-f3-everybody-wants.aspx
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Apr 6, 2011 04:24
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It does exist, but it's not a particularly successful idea. http://www.shutterbug.com/equipmentreviews/accessories/0206leica/
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Apr 6, 2011 04:24
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Mannequin posted:Same here. I would totally buy it just so that I could enjoy the use of my FE2 without having to wait for the film. I'm sure the old-school Minolta users would go nuts for one of these, too. I was specifically thinking of my Minolta X-700 when I was reading all this stuff and writing the above. I definately would go nuts for one of those, if they existed and weren't idiotic prices. EDIT: that Leica thing is butt-ugly. One of the best features of a manual-focus film SLR compared to a modern DSLR is the size - my "full frame" Minolta is tiny compared to my crop-sensor Pentax K10D.
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Apr 6, 2011 04:26
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How I imagine it, the real challenge in making a "works with any camera" 35 mm digital drop-in would be knowing when an exposure begins and ends, and when the camera advances to the next frame. You'd need to make a sensor that's less than a mm thick, fit all the controlling electronics and power supply into the size of a 135 cartridge, and make something on the other end of the sensor flap that lets the camera count sprocket holes, and counts sprocket holes itself! It's really the last thing that sounds least plausible to me, if you need it to work without modifying the camera.
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Apr 6, 2011 04:53
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In case you want a digital camera that LOOKS like an old Leica, photojojo has a crazy new digital camera. http://photojojo.com/store/awesomeness/classic-mini-digital-camera/ It looks pretty cheaply made though. Also I'm not sure if the shutter speed selector or other controls actually work though.... I would like a completely manual digital camera... I wish someone made one
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Apr 6, 2011 15:26
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echobucket posted:In case you want a digital camera that LOOKS like an old Leica, photojojo has a crazy new digital camera. Yeah, it would be great if they made a digital Epson G2 or a newer Epson R-D. In my dreams I imagine a full frame leica screw-mount unmetered/match needle metered digital Zorki camera made in an alternate timeline where the Soviet Union never broke up
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Apr 6, 2011 16:11
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Well, I'm now the proud owner of a Canon AE-1 Program. I checked it out this morning and it was in great shape, just needs some minor cleaning. Everything mechanical is working with no funny noises, the electronics all work fine, and even the light seals didn't look too bad. It came with the standard Canon 50/1.8, a CPC 80-200 macro (I think a rebranded Sigma, not sure if it's constant aperture based on what's printed on the barrel but the aperture ring stops at 4.5), a 2x teleconverter (also CPC, who knows what manufacture), bag, cleaning kit, and this silly Mickey Mouse camera strap that I think I'll leave on for shits and giggles. She's loaded up with Fuji Superia 400 (which was the best thing Rite-Aid had in stock, as far as I could tell) and now I just have to find things to shoot. This thing is solid as gently caress, feels almost like cocking a gun when I wind the film advance lever, and the big bright viewfinder (with split prism screen) is just ridiculous compared to my T2i's finder. I can't wait to see what comes out of it. I'll probably still be checking out the other one too, since the price is right and it comes with a few other accessories. (That'll have to wait till this weekend though, since apparenty my work schedule doesn't agree with old people time.) If that one checks out it'll either be a spare or I might end up putting one up for sale here.
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Apr 6, 2011 18:40
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echobucket posted:In case you want a digital camera that LOOKS like an old Leica, photojojo has a crazy new digital camera. Hah, I have one of those. I got it as a Christmas gift a couple of years ago. Although mine is even smaller than that. No manual exposure controls, but it does manual focus.
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Apr 6, 2011 19:07
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echobucket posted:I would like a completely manual digital camera... I wish someone made one Isn't this what the Fuji X100 is? Or a digital Leica? You can go into the AE modes but if you want full manual it's there.
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Apr 6, 2011 23:45
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echobucket posted:I would like a completely manual digital camera... I wish someone made one Epson R-D1 is pretty close?
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Apr 6, 2011 23:57
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Entry level Nikon DSLR with pre-autofocus lenses if you can deal with the tiny viewfinder.
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Apr 7, 2011 01:02
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nielsm posted:How I imagine it, the real challenge in making a "works with any camera" 35 mm digital drop-in would be knowing when an exposure begins and ends, and when the camera advances to the next frame. You wouldn't need any way for the camera or sensor to count the sprocket holes, the sensor could capture the 35mm frame, store it and move on. As long as the shutter cocks the camera doesn't care. The ghetto way to have it synch to the shutter would be to use the flash terminal, but a reasonably fast and sensitive sensor could capture the image exposed by the shutter. Technically, I believe this is very possible. However, which camera company is going to spend the money to develop and market a device that allows folks to bypass buying new gear every time something new is released? Now this would be a perfect product for a company like the old Vivitar.
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Apr 7, 2011 02:58
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Gnomad posted:You wouldn't need any way for the camera or sensor to count the sprocket holes Gnomad posted:the sensor could capture the 35mm frame, store it and move on. Essentially the sensor would be exposing constantly, and every time it sensed having been advanced, it would store whatever image was in the sensor at that point. Coupling it on the flash sync might work. Let's assume a wireless connection is used, to avoid pulling a cable into the film housing. The flash sync doesn't tell anything about how long the shutter is open, AFAIK, so this method would essentially store at the start of each new exposure. That might cause some small timing issues since the sensor would be offloading the previous image just as the shutter has opened to expose the next, possibly causing some mild double exposures, or missing some of the start of each exposure. If the sensor is capturing constantly and not discharged before each exposure, and offloaded straight after, I think there would also be issues with hot pixels in one way or another. The best solution you could make (without modifying the camera itself) might actually be combining a pre-discharge by flash sync and an image offload by film advance sensing. The flash sync transmitter could also function as a control unit, sitting in the camera's flash shoe. Gnomad posted:However, which camera company is going to spend the money to develop and market a device that allows folks to bypass buying new gear every time something new is released? (I'm not trying to argue whether it's a good or bad idea, I just think it's fun trying to discover the possible requirements for engineering this.)
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Apr 7, 2011 03:29
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It's a nifty idea but you're selling the single most expensive camera part as a product. I'd imagine a full frame sensor is at least $500, plus the control hardware. It's an awesome idea though, it keeps coming up and every time there's a positive reaction. Kodak actually made some Nikon bodies like this, which they sold as the DCS- series. They're mostly notable for lacking an antialiasing filter, which causes some nasty moire patterns. e: The Kodak DCS 425 is awesome Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Apr 7, 2011 |
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Apr 7, 2011 04:27
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I swear to god 2011 is turning into the year of camera malfunctions for me. I was at a show shooting with my Mamiya 645 and the focusing screen falls loose. Fortunately this time it was the latch unlatching somehow, no harm no foul. In other news, I got that 35mm TLR kit from DealExtreme in the mail today. Can't wait to put it together.
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Apr 7, 2011 08:46
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nielsm posted:Not even for cameras with motor drive? You could probably work it with a sound and vibration sensor. Calibrate it, and the noise of the mirror going up and down should be pretty unique from inside the camera box.
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Apr 7, 2011 12:49
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Okay, dorkroom, I have a question for you guys. I'm going to a fair tonight and I want to do some available light pictures. I'm bringing my Retina IIa and my Zorki 4, and I was thinking of loading the Retina with some ISO 100 and the Zorki ISO 400, both color. My problem: I have no idea what aperture and shutter settings to use. The calculator posted earlier in the thread (http://www.calculator.org/calculate-online/photography/exposure.aspx) is recommending f/8 for 1s with ISO 100 film for "Brightly lit domestic interiors at night, computer screens, fairgrounds, and amusement parks", but that seems suspect to me. Any suggestions?
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Apr 8, 2011 18:40
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That sounds about right. I typically find normally lit (not bright) home interiors at night to be somewhere around f/1.4, 1/30, ISO400, which is -2 stops from that exposure. There will be some reciprocity failure at 1s, probably 1/2 to 1 stop additional exposure needed. If you're not sure, bring an SLR along to meter with. Don't forget to add the reciprocity correction.
Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Apr 8, 2011 |
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Apr 8, 2011 18:53
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Sega Saturn posted:Okay, dorkroom, I have a question for you guys. I'm going to a fair tonight and I want to do some available light pictures. I'm bringing my Retina IIa and my Zorki 4, and I was thinking of loading the Retina with some ISO 100 and the Zorki ISO 400, both color. My problem: I have no idea what aperture and shutter settings to use. Shooting handheld non-flash photos at night with 100 or 400 film is madness unless you plan on using a tripod which would be a total buzzkill at a fair. I'd recommend loading up with Tri-X or HP5 and metering at 1600. I would be very hesitant to recommend settings because there's dark and then there's dark. Lighting can be very deceptive.
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Apr 8, 2011 21:05
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Looking for a film scanner that can do 35mm and 120 film. Budget of about $500 but obviously cheaper is better. Can anyone reccommend something which is not a horrible frustration to use and gives me enough resolution to stick my images in lightroom for (sometimes fairly significant) editing?
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Apr 9, 2011 17:03
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Lon Lon Rabbit posted:Looking for a film scanner that can do 35mm and 120 film. Epson V500/V600, and throw in a Betterscanning holder. For $500ish you're in V700/V750 territory though, which might be worth the upgrade, especially if you think you might be moving in to large format someday. Even if you're not, they have somewhat better image quality, and the larger scanning area lets you scan more frames at a time, which is convenient.
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Apr 9, 2011 17:11
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Epson V500/V600, and throw in a Betterscanning holder. For $500ish you're in V700/V750 territory though, which might be worth the upgrade, especially if you think you might be moving in to large format someday. Even if you're not, they have somewhat better image quality, and the larger scanning area lets you scan more frames at a time, which is convenient. Thanks, will dig around online and then see what the big camera shops have when I'm in Kyoto tomorrow. Developing prices are not too bad here but for some reason scanning and burning to DVD is just insane.
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Apr 9, 2011 17:50
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