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Casao posted:So, turns out what I'd misremembered as an S60 is actually a 2004 S80 with 55k miles on it, and it's in awesome condition. This thing owns. I know the earliest ones were reputed to have electrics by the Amish, but I too have a 2004 S80 and it is loving awesome.
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Mar 31, 2011 17:54
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Xovaan posted:No matter what boost I set it to, the thing just feels clunky. I'm either getting no boost or full boost. When I had a T-valve in my car before this (back when I was rocking the B21ft), the thing had the best spool I've encountered. The car's turbo felt incredibly responsive. Refresh my memory - what turbo are you running with your current B230FT? Are you using low-compression or high-compression pistons? What kind of Hallman MBC is on it? How much boost are you running? My inexpert opinion is this: if you're running a bigger turbo than stock, you're probably going to encounter more turbo lag than with the B21FT. In addition, the Hallman MBC is made to get the turbo spooling as fast as possible when the motor gets into boost. As a result, the car may be a lot peakier than the B21FT was, and that may just be the nature of the beast. I tried to gauge how the throttle response felt with my car on the way to school this morning as an experiment. I have a B230FT with a 15G and a Hallman Pro MBC, and I'm running 15psi of boost. When I got the car into boost, it rapidly reached pressure and stayed there for the given level of throttle. In order to get the sort of "off/on" response out of it that you describe, I had to floor it all the time, which (of course) incurred the maximum possible amount of turbo lag and a great deal of thrust once things spooled up. In general, though, I wouldn't describe it as "unresponsive." I've never driven a car with a B21FT, though, so I have no point of comparison. v  v
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Mar 31, 2011 20:51
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TheJeffers posted:Refresh my memory - what turbo are you running with your current B230FT? Are you using low-compression or high-compression pistons? What kind of Hallman MBC is on it? How much boost are you running? Thanks for the reply. Turns out the reason behind my boost issues is because my wastegate actuator was on crooked resulting in voodoo. (I'm using a 15g and my old a/c dong-bracket as my wastegate bracket) Just adjusted the position of the actuator on the bracket and kept the boost controller in. Now it's pushing a healthy 16psi! Up next: Installing my GT front end with my new Hella 7" rounds. 
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Apr 1, 2011 02:03
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 Headlights are on! Came with stickers that said "for off-road use-only. not street legal or DOT approved". That's how you know they're good. My $8/pair H4 halogen high beams are like the Death Star destroying the planet that is darkness. Now I just need to figure out why my turn signals and parking lights aren't working. 
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Apr 5, 2011 12:15
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Any one want a "new" Volvo 244 -86? 360 km on the meter. The description says it has sat in a garage since -86. They want $19,000 for it.  I know the link is in Swedish and most of you probably can't read it. But there's pictures!
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Apr 7, 2011 07:03
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Hey guys, my parents are strongly leaning towards a 2011 XC60. This is the Chinese market and they are looking at the 2.0l Ecoboost/DSG FWD drivetrain. What do you guys think? - The car seems nice enough and I suspect the current generation XC60 is probably too new to have much reliability information. What I've found on Truedelta seems to indicate fairly typical Euro car issues - electrics in the mirrors, nav, radio and center console glitches, etc. which would be annoying but aren't dealbreakers - they probably won't be keeping the car for much beyond warranty. I guess some of you guys work at Volvo dealers and/or are pretty knowledgeable on these in general, are there any big things we need to watch out for? - The 2.0lEcoboost/DSG drivetrain seems to be fairly common amongst Euro Fords, so I'm hoping that any issues would have come up by now. How are the fuel pumps and carbon buildup(Ecoboost = DI engine) on these? I guess this isn't exactly a Volvo specific question.  - As per the thread info on the T6 engine issues, I am telling them to go for the base model with the fewest number of drive axles/electric poo poo. Hopefully that should keep problems to a minimum. - The benchmark here is a Subaru Outback 2.5l/CVT which they were originally set on. They currently have a Forester and like Subarus but appreciate the nicer interior and marginally better safety ratings/features on the (much more expensive) Volvo. - A V60 would be perfect but it's not available in this market, so I'm telling them to consider hard whether they really need the big wheels and higher ground clearance of the XC, which is quite a it more expensive. Throatwarbler fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Apr 8, 2011 |
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Apr 8, 2011 05:16
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Pretty Cool Name posted:Any one want a "new" Volvo 244 -86? 360 km on the meter. The description says it has sat in a garage since -86. They want $19,000 for it. Why did Volvo decide to put a bigass clock on the dash instead of a tach? Is that normal for cars of this vintage?
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Apr 9, 2011 15:49
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Augmented Dickey posted:Why did Volvo decide to put a bigass clock on the dash instead of a tach? Is that normal for cars of this vintage? At least when it comes to euro cars, a lot of older base models came with a clock instead of a tach. In Volvos case, if you got for example a 240 GLT or Turbo instead, you got the tach and the clock moved to the centre console, like this. (These pictures are from two different 240s, they just illustrate my point).  
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Apr 9, 2011 20:37
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I higher spec model would have a rev counter I believe? e:doh That'll teach me to reply that long after I open a new tab
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Apr 9, 2011 20:45
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Pretty Cool Name posted:Any one want a "new" Volvo 244 -86? 360 km on the meter. The description says it has sat in a garage since -86. They want $19,000 for it. Looks like a near factory LPG installation too?
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Apr 10, 2011 01:21
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Postin' pics of my Volvo 
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Apr 10, 2011 01:31
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Is that an S90 behind it? Also...V70 (NA, AWD, Turbo, R)?
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Apr 10, 2011 06:25
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Someone's been taking their tires to McDonald's for lunch every day. Faaaaaaaaaaat. I like it. I can't quite see what you've done with the fender lip, whether you're just beating on it with a hammer or if you've been doing some welding.
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Apr 10, 2011 06:54
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the poi posted:Looks like a near factory LPG installation too? What makes you think that? The text makes no mention of it, and LPG cars are really rare in Sweden, but that doesn't mean this car isn't one. I'm inquisitive, not accusatory, never having looked under the bonnet of a LPG car.
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Apr 10, 2011 11:31
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The ad actual says the original "bensin" (gasoline) is still in it, so I guess it's not LPG.
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Apr 10, 2011 12:35
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Oxphocker posted:Is that an S90 behind it? The wagon is a 960, as is the car behind it. Read more about the wagon here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=52060 http://www.pbase.com/765ti/960r
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Apr 10, 2011 17:24
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Does anybody know why triple gauge cluster lights randomly turn on and off? If you tap them, they'll turn off. You tap them again, they turn on. I checked the connectors and there is nothing they could possibly be grounding on. Nothing is loose. Maybe it's an exhaust leak seeping into the cabin causing me to hallucinate?
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Apr 10, 2011 22:06
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Pull the bulb holders out and clean the connections.
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Apr 10, 2011 23:07
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/\ 95 960 wagon, and that is a 95 960 sedan behind it  I'm welding on it, and it's a real bitch. I knocked out a lot of the inner fender, and trimmed a lot off the outer fender. Filled that gap with a patch, then added two back halves of 95+ 960 mated together as the external fender. Want to fill it with lead, but there's a lot of tension in the metal, so if I get it hot enough it might start wandering all over the place. Basically gently caress sheet metal. Probably end up using Bondo. Re LPG: the 4th picture--that thing looks like a gas regulator to me. Is it just a carb?
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Apr 11, 2011 00:05
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I traded my 97 850 AWD Wagon today for ... another 97 850 AWD Wagon.
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Apr 12, 2011 04:31
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Replaced my decaying intake hose with silicone and aluminum piping and routed the PCV to a catch can. Gonna eventually tap the aluminum and put a bung so I can route the PCV back for smog. Tomorrow I'm gonna put copper brillo in the catch can and route the open vent on the catch can to the underside of the car. Also added a hump hose coupling to the intercooler piping so it's more flush with the turbo. Hooray for weird angles!     Going to Home Depot to fabricate a bracket to hold the catch can and the air filter / AMM tomorrow too, then it's a matter of figuring out how to power my 960 leather seats!
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Apr 12, 2011 10:53
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First thing I notice when I look at your engine bay is how all the clamps are misaligned, mounted left and right on the same pipe, and have the stud sticking straight up in the air. If you take the extra 30 seconds to point them in more aesthetic directions (down) and orient/align them to each other the engine bay will look 1000 times cleaner. As my dead boss used to say, "even turds look good if you line them up straight". Just a note, no disrespect intended.
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Apr 12, 2011 16:54
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I have them all easily accessible right now because I can spin my ratchet 360* to remove them as I'm constantly taking off most of the parts to adjust things below them at the moment. Once I put on my EGR and re-mount my resistor ballast I'm gonna do the whole "showroom" thing. The primary reason I went with silicone is because the cost of the OEM Volvo turbo intake hose costs more than all of the silicon parts I've used to replace every hose in my entire car, not really to make it look fancy. That's why on the right I've kept my old intercooler pipe on the intake side instead of upgrading to a silver aluminum one. I mean, you're totally right though. I just don't see a point at this stage. My wire management and organization is in a worse state than my pipes.
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Apr 12, 2011 20:26
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Fair enough. All the switch and outlet plates in my house have the screws aligned with the slots horizontal. I might be a bit anal.
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Apr 13, 2011 00:00
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LloydDobler posted:Fair enough. Hahaha, you're basically me. Don't worry; I just went through and organized all the wires in my engine bay and covered them in corrugated plastic tubing. Now I'm in the process of figuring out a good way to fabricate a bracket to hold up my air filter. I'll post pics in a bit!
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Apr 13, 2011 04:43
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Here's where I am at in my line of Volvo wagons:   This is wagon #7 that I have had since 2006. I have been slowly going up and sideways and down a little but on my road to a nice car. #6 was this car's brother, in green with beige interior:  Traded for the one above, a side step for me. #5 was a 1998 V70XC.  Automatic. Traded it for the 850 AWD after I was rear-ended and found that the car had been bashed up pretty good in an undisclosed out-of-province accident which had left it with some frame damage repairs. #4 was a 91 240 DL with a 5-speed transmission.  This was taken in the winter when we had that really huge dump of snow that lasted for 6 weeks. This was taken in the morning after I had cleared the same amount of snow off the car the evenign before. It died a horrible death on the Alex Fraser bridge. One of the best cars I have owned. A goon drove by my accident and was sad for me too. Between this car (#4) and the previous one (#3) I owned a 91 Cherokee which was a disaster that I bought for $350 off a friend who went to Afghanistan. #3 was an 81 240 DL with a 4+1 transmission.  Started backfiring. Sold it for what I had into it to buy the Cherokee. #2 was an 83 245 GL with the B23F and 4+1 transmission.  First standard I had. Unsurprisingly the clutch went when I wasn't able to afford it, so I traded it in to the mechanic for the green 240DL. The B23F motor was a lot of fun and I missed it until I got the V70XC. In this photo I was stuck in the hills after a big dump of snow. #1 was an 81 240 DL automatic. I think I bought it in 2005  Lost my oil cap somewhere on my last oil fill to when it started dropping angry red glowing chunks behind me at exit 270 on the I-5 North about 5 minutes south of the Canadian border. That really, really sucked. mikerock fucked around with this message at 05:13 on Apr 13, 2011 |
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Apr 13, 2011 05:10
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drat, man. That's a ton of Volvos. What time span is this? Also the paint on #1 is gorgeous. Hard to find good black paint these days it seems. I'm still on my first. Here's the tidy engine bay as of five minutes ago!  I used Home Depot hose (and yes I got a Depot Dog: hot link with caramelized onions, hoarse radish and deli mustard) to replace the old hard PCV hose. I transferred over the heat shield because it was still in excellent condition. I'm going back to pick up some vacuum nipples for the PCV flange and the intake manifold flange so the catch can actually does its wizardry but so far so good! I'm running the blue hose (you can see in the bottom left) underneath the car's passenger fender to disperse oily vapors all over California's wonderfully maintained freeways. Oh and here is my manly Swedish dinner: seven strips of fried bacon with three waffles fried in bacon grease and topped with a half-stick of butter distributed between all three. (No, I didn't butter the bacon. that's just gross) 
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Apr 13, 2011 06:52
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Xovaan posted:drat, man. That's a ton of Volvos. What time span is this? Also the paint on #1 is gorgeous. Hard to find good black paint these days it seems. The black 240 was originally a cream/white colour. My mishap made me super paranoid about oil changes. When I lived in a place I could do them myself I did. As for the time span, I think it is overall 6 years. The last three are pretty close though, the two 850s are trades up and I got the XC70 in December of 2009. I liked that car and would have kept it if it wasn't for the frame damage. My wife doesn't like driving manual so it was nice to have a car we could both drive, and the body styling on the 90s V70s is really nice. I think I am going to try and get her back on the manual though as I gave her some lessons on #4 and she did really well, but it was intimidating for her as she had just moved from New Jersey drivers to Vancouver drivers plus manual transmission. My new 850 is much smoother and she's been here for a few years now.
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Apr 13, 2011 07:15
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Has anyone installed a double din unit in a Volvo S80? '04, specifically. It looks like there's an official adapter available, according to this thread, but I was hoping to hear some experiences first to be sure.
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Apr 13, 2011 14:28
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Dude there's part numbers and an actual photo. Yes it's been done and you should do it. You'll just have to grind away some of the two side rails in the adapter for a non-Volvo unit.Xovaan posted:
See, looks nice! I'm wondering if you couldn't get a longer aluminum tube and put the hump hose coupling directly on the intercooler, you'd eliminate two clamps and one silicone hose. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 15:32 on Apr 13, 2011 |
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Apr 13, 2011 15:28
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LloydDobler posted:Dude there's part numbers and an actual photo. Yes it's been done and you should do it. You'll just have to grind away some of the two side rails in the adapter for a non-Volvo unit. I searched for the part number and couldn't find it when I looked, so I wasn't sure if it was still available even (since they had a style shift since then). I'll go ahead with it then.
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Apr 13, 2011 17:22
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Here's a direct order link for what will likely be the best price in the country: http://www.tascaparts.com/partlocat...playCatalogid=0
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Apr 13, 2011 19:10
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LloydDobler posted:Here's a direct order link for what will likely be the best price in the country: http://www.tascaparts.com/partlocat...playCatalogid=0 Thanks, I'll keep that link handy.
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Apr 13, 2011 20:14
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LloydDobler posted:Dude there's part numbers and an actual photo. Yes it's been done and you should do it. You'll just have to grind away some of the two side rails in the adapter for a non-Volvo unit. Unfortunately they don't make hump hose reducing couplers (to go from 2.5" to 2.25" for the piping) on the site I was buying from (siliconeintakes.com) or I would have. It's okay, though: only $10 more to have this setup and the silicon and clamps are so ridiculously strong I doubt I'll ever get a vacuum leak in those areas as long as I own the car. 
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Apr 14, 2011 01:27
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Well after acting the idiot too long I found the source of the rattling, it was rear brake pads floating. Unfortunately I also discovered my rear brakes are mostly seized & getting little to no work most of the time. I free'd them up temporarily but unless I go hooning around with a boot full of paving slabs they'll just seize up again apparently. On the way I fixed my electric mirrors, heated rear seat, some loose wheel arch liners, poorly routed brake & power steering pipes, replaced a bunch of broken & missing clips & decided I need to replace my front wheels, they're in an awful state. I also discovered I need to unbolt engine mounts & lift the engine slightly to swap the front control arms, sound fun  Quick question - did the early V70 come with a plastic tray under the engine?
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Apr 21, 2011 11:31
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Only between the bumper and subframe, the XCs had a mud guard directly under the motor I think.
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Apr 21, 2011 19:33
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Anyone have any tips for replacing motor mounts in a 240? Both of mine are broken, and it's looking like the job will be a giant pain in the rear end.
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Apr 22, 2011 22:14
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Since TB's search is down, have any of you guys put a 960 amm on your 740/940? Im going crazy trying to figure out how to step down a 3" OD AMM to the 2.75" ID stock intake to amm hose. So far I have a 3" advance auto parts cone filter (on sale $19.99!) with an adapter on the amm to 2.5" to a piece of 2.5" id exhaust pipe with some electrical tape wrapped around it to build it up. I didn't get a chance to check Lowe's for some plastic tubing, but it seems like nobody makes 2.75 pipe, much less silicone adapters!
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Apr 22, 2011 23:17
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im gonna do the pcv on my 850 soon, im scared never done anything except front end work before
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Apr 23, 2011 01:23
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Jack_Handey posted:Since TB's search is down, have any of you guys put a 960 amm on your 740/940? Im going crazy trying to figure out how to step down a 3" OD AMM to the 2.75" ID stock intake to amm hose. So far I have a 3" advance auto parts cone filter (on sale $19.99!) with an adapter on the amm to 2.5" to a piece of 2.5" id exhaust pipe with some electrical tape wrapped around it to build it up. I didn't get a chance to check Lowe's for some plastic tubing, but it seems like nobody makes 2.75 pipe, much less silicone adapters! Go to siliconeintakes.com for silicon reduction couplers. They are reasonably priced and last forever. But as for your problem, you don't want to use a 3" amm if your car uses a 2.75" one. (012 vs. 016 on the parts #). Your car will have a bunch of problems if you try to. (also search is up so you can look up things like "016 or 012" etc. to see what people have to say about this) zundfolge posted:Anyone have any tips for replacing motor mounts in a 240? Both of mine are broken, and it's looking like the job will be a giant pain in the rear end. 1. Get a long enough engine hoist so you don't have to remove the front bumper and -make sure- that when you lift the engine you don't damage the crank position sensor on the tranny tunnel/fireweall if on LH2.4 2. Remove all accessory piping and tidbits around the mounts (basically anything within the way of reaching the bolts on the mounts) 3. There should be three bolts at the bottom of the engine crossmember on each side for the engine mounts. Loosen these a lot. 4. Loosen the bolts attached to the engine mounts. 5. Clip the engine hoist to the eyelets on your engine and jack it up slowly until there is no load on the mounts. 6. Remove the mounts and put the new ones in. It's crucial to loosen the three bolts that hold the engine mount accessory bracket to the engine cross member on each side because then you can kind of slide both engine mounts into place when you lower the engine. If you don't do this, you'll find it an utter pain in the rear end (as I have the several times I've had to do this). Hope this helps a bit!
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Apr 23, 2011 03:24
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