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The Scientist posted:MAN that is arbitrary. I thought so at first, but I wasn't aware of their tradition of April 1 jokes until this year. I actually think they're pretty clever and remarkably well assembled little gags. Almost all of them are just barely not-believable, to the point where while reading, you could almost convince youself that someone out there would really buy this crazy thing. Oh, looks like the "story tape" item is actually for sale in real life, which is extra funny.
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Apr 2, 2011 00:35
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Cobalt60 posted:Oh, looks like the "story tape" item is actually for sale in real life, which is extra funny. You know, if you could mark that with a grease pencil it's actually not that bad an idea.
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Apr 2, 2011 00:41
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You can get it 12' imperial, 3.65 m metric, or 7.34 cubits. Just don't get the wrong one.
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Apr 2, 2011 00:54
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Started cleaning out the garage tonight. I found about 8 feet of wall/floor space. On the other side of the garage, I expect to find about 4 more feet. The bonus is that my birthday is in a few weeks. Hellooooo, bandsaw, compound miter saw, lathe, or some combination thereof! (But in that order, almost certainly.) e: Is this Rikon still a good recommendation for a good starting band saw that I also won't uncomfortably outgrow inside of a single summer? I swear there was an almost identical one that had a much larger resaw capacity, like 9" or even 12" or something. ee: I also found this and this locally. Are either of those worth looking into? Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Apr 2, 2011 |
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Apr 2, 2011 02:12
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dja98 posted:The legs and 3" apron are connected via simple mortise and tenon joints, with the legs tapering on the inside from 1.5" to 3/4" at the bottom. I built a set of shaker tables with legs the same dimensions as above and wish I had made them a bit stouter at the bottom, 7/8 or 1". Fun fact: I tapered the legs with a circular saw ... they turned out just fine but I don't recommend it. Going to side with the "drop the dowels" crowd, you don't need them and unless you just really want to try out a new dowel jig or something I wouldn't do it.
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Apr 2, 2011 02:21
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wormil posted:I built a set of shaker tables with legs the same dimensions as above and wish I had made them a bit stouter at the bottom, 7/8 or 1". Thanks - I was worried about the narrowness at the bottom - I'll mess around with this a bit more.
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Apr 2, 2011 04:47
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Bad Munki posted:Started cleaning out the garage tonight. I found about 8 feet of wall/floor space. On the other side of the garage, I expect to find about 4 more feet. Given those options, go for the Rikon. Do consider a 17" grizzly if you can possibly afford it. 17" is a size that you won't really grow out of as a hobbyist woodworker, 14" will leave you wanting.
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Apr 3, 2011 04:09
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Looking at about $800 for the 17" Grizzly, does that sound about right? That's definitely a little past my high-end, buuuut...I bet I could make it happen.
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Apr 3, 2011 07:36
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800 is about right, factor in shipping too ($90-100ish) unless you are close enough to pick it up at the warehouse. I am very happy with my G0513X2 bandsaw.
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Apr 3, 2011 18:29
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Well that's cool. While looking around for local grizzly suppliers, I discovered a local woodworker's club. It's a $30 membership fee, but you get a membership card that gets you a discount at a bunch of places across town. For instance, 10% off at my favorite materials supplier. It would have already paid for itself in the last six months alone if I'd realized the group existed. So, moral of the story is: check for local clubs/groups, I guess. Seems obvious in retrospect, but it's one of those things that's easy to ignore. 
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Apr 3, 2011 19:00
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Grizzly is mail order only, you won't likely find them locally except for people selling used gear. It is freight shipping, so unless you pay extra for lift gate service, you'll need a forklift to unload whatever you order from them. Those Rikon saws go on sale at Woodcraft from time to time. I think theyre about due for another sale.
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Apr 3, 2011 22:36
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Wtf is "polar bear series?" Is that just some way of saying, "It's white?" e: Yeah, nevermind, sounds like that's precisely what it is. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Apr 3, 2011 |
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Apr 3, 2011 22:42
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I gained a little bit of MAN cred today. I replaced the lovely plastic railings on my front porch with one a wooden one. Drilled the post anchors into solid concrete and then worked from there up. Now I just have to finish the back deck. If only the morons who owned this place before me had not painted the railings pink I wouldn't be doing this right now.
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Apr 3, 2011 23:00
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Interest check: I'm just getting into blacksmithing (come say hi in the metalworking thread :3 ), and I'm looking to hammer out a lot of simple, difficult-to-gently caress-up doodads to get a bit of a skillbase going. Right now, I'm leaning towards rosehead nails (3- or 4-sided doesn't matter, I can do either with the same equipment). These pretty little things:  My carpenter father tells me people love them to death because they look good and have way, way more holding power than round wire nails. Tells me, anyways- I'm not much of a woodworker. I can also, hypothetically, do simple hardware, but I'm getting way ahead of myself. If I were to hammer (heh) out a couple dozen for starters and post 'em in SA-Mart, would there be any takers?
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Apr 4, 2011 13:50
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I started a project over the weekend, I'm making a sign for my regular bar. I have the design made up already, that will be laser engraved into the sign. The sign itself will be approximately 31 1/2" wide and 22" tall when it's finished and will be oval shaped. Problem is, I'm a giant retard and decided to use red oak (to sort of match their bar trim), which seems to be the hardest loving material known to man. I had to joint two 1" by 12" pieces together to get the size I needed, and I can't seem to smooth the face down without my stupid palm sander leaving little squiggly marks all over the place. (I also attempted to use a belt sander, that was an absolute disaster, which is why I'm still having problems getting rid of the marks.) Would a random orbital sander do a better job of sanding the face down without leaving marks all over? I would just flip it over and use the other side as the face, but the joint looks like poo poo on that side, so it needs to be the back. EDIT: If a random orbit sander would do a better job, I'm looking at this DeWalt sander. It would be replacing an ancient Craftsman palm sander that's been in my dad's shop probably longer than I've been alive. Any opinions on this one? Boogeyman fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Apr 4, 2011 |
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Apr 4, 2011 15:44
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Boogeyman posted:Sanding issues... What grit were you using with the sanders?
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Apr 4, 2011 16:17
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Also, don't press so hard. 
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Apr 4, 2011 16:18
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I started with 120 on the palm sander, that wasn't doing poo poo. Went down to 80, that still didn't do poo poo. Then I switched to the belt sander with an 80 grit belt and it left track marks all over the place (partially my fault, partially the sander's fault since it's also a piece of poo poo). I switched back to the palm sander and tried dropping all the way down to 40 grit, which still barely removes any material. I wasn't pushing hard on the palm sander, just enough to keep it from wandering around. I've used it before on softer woods and it does an OK job, it just can't do poo poo with this oak.
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Apr 4, 2011 16:45
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If you think that's slow, try doing end grain. 
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Apr 4, 2011 16:47
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Boogeyman posted:I started with 120 on the palm sander, that wasn't doing poo poo. Went down to 80, that still didn't do poo poo. Then I switched to the belt sander with an 80 grit belt and it left track marks all over the place (partially my fault, partially the sander's fault since it's also a piece of poo poo). I switched back to the palm sander and tried dropping all the way down to 40 grit, which still barely removes any material. I find that a palm sander is pretty much useless when trying to remove material or trying to blend two pieces that are not matching. I never use anything under 120 grit on a palm sander since you're pretty much only going to make little circles that will take a lot more sanding to remove. I only use it with 120 or higher to do some final finishing before I throw on the crazy-fine grit paper or hand sand. Really, I don't like to use them at all if I can avoid it. With a belt sander Don't go under 80 unless you're removing an old finish or are trying to remove a lot of material. Just let the thing sit there and hold it from running away on you. Don't apply pressure, and always go with the grain. I'd have to see a picture of your project, but use 100 or higher and just let it do its job. It will take a while, but you have the benefit of not having to remove those infurating little circles.
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Apr 4, 2011 17:18
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I sort of get the impression that you may be trying to use a hand sander to do the job of a planer. If your working with rough bandsawn lumber or trying to take down mismatched edge to edge glue ups, thats a job for a planer or drum sander. Deep scratches, same thing. Even the hardest woods should take no more than a few minutes per grit. Depending on project size of course. Ambrose Burnside posted:Interest check: I'm just getting into blacksmithing (come say hi in the metalworking thread :3 ), and I'm looking to hammer out a lot of simple, difficult-to-gently caress-up doodads to get a bit of a skillbase going. Maybe not here, but someone looking to replicate a specific period piece or something might. Really depends on pricing, although thats less of an object for someone on a mission. ChaoticSeven fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Apr 4, 2011 |
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Apr 4, 2011 17:47
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Boogeyman posted:Problem is, I'm a giant retard and decided to use red oak, which seems to be the hardest loving material known to man. Its funny, I've posted this exact sentence in this exact thread as well.
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Apr 5, 2011 02:25
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The Scientist posted:Its funny, I've posted this exact sentence in this exact thread as well. Good to know I'm not the only one having problems with it! They were red oak boards from Home Depot, so they were fairly smooth to start with. I did need to remove a bit of material to even out the face since the edges didn't glue up perfectly. I wish I had a drum sander or a planer, but I don't (any more, dad got rid of those forever ago when he moved to his new house). He does have an assortment of hand planes, but at this point I'll probably end up doing more harm than good. I went ahead and ordered that random orbit sander, I'll see if that does a better job. I have a feeling that palm sander is just worn the gently caress out, it has to be at least 30 years old.
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Apr 5, 2011 18:54
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Welp, that kinda sucks. I had sort of decided to go ahead and drop the few extra bucks for that 17" grizzly, and then just keeping it for ever and ever. Fortunately, I looked a little closer first. For one, I'd need to rewire it to 120V. At which point it becomes a 20 amp item. Because I'm currently living in lowest-bidder contractor cookie-cutter townhouse suburbia, my so-called "shop" is just a garage that was engineered as a hole in the wall with enough juice for a couple light bulbs. While the breaker box is horribly mis-labeled, I'm pretty sure I'm not even getting 15 amps in there. If anything, the breaker for the garage is rated for 20 but shared across probably the majority of the kitchen. I can't wait to get out of here in a year and buy a house I can actually mangle into being useful. e: Unrelated: can you guys help me figure a price tag on this drill press I have? Without going into details, I'm buying it from a friend who doesn't really have a say in the price, and I want to cut him a check that is mutually fair for both of us. It's a 12" Craftsman, model 137.219120. I've looked around on the web, but I can only seem to find much nicer or much lesser models to price against. 
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Apr 5, 2011 |
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Apr 5, 2011 20:48
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Bad Munki posted:
I've got a '140, which is really similar but with a cheesy DRO on the spindle. I wouldn't go higher than $100. It's pretty strong but the spindle has issues. The runout is fine, but the spindle gib is a cruel joke. You'll have to completely remove the spindle and remove that grub screw to make it round so it turns in the slot, at which point you can remove some wobble but you'll find that the slot isn't particularly accurate so you get a compromise fit. Or maybe you've already done that. Either way it's a little nicer than HF but not a Walker-Turner or Delta or anything.
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Apr 6, 2011 01:58
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Huh, okay...that's odd, because I've been using this thing for a while now and haven't had any trouble to speak of. I was originally just going to say $100 because it seemed like a nice round value, but I was concerned that might not be enough. Maybe I'll just stick with that.
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Apr 6, 2011 02:25
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Was out taking pictures today and found this: http://www.flickr.com/photos/prathm/sets/72157626443016452/ I thought this thread might get a kick out if it.
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Apr 6, 2011 19:44
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I don't like to have to change clothes before I go make sawdust, so I'm thinking about getting an apron, cause it'd be super easy to put on. Name your favorite shopwear, and why.
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Apr 11, 2011 05:00
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Coveralls because they do what they say they do. They can get kind of warm in the summer though so I usually just go in with the clothes I'm already wearing and try to dust off before I go back into the house.
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Apr 11, 2011 12:53
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I'm looking at this table saw on CL, is it worth $200? http://columbiamo.craigslist.org/tls/2317763469.html
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Apr 11, 2011 17:15
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Prathm posted:Was out taking pictures today and found this: Was kinda neat to see, thanks for sharing Bad Munki posted:I don't like to have to change clothes before I go make sawdust, so I'm thinking about getting an apron, cause it'd be super easy to put on. I've thought about getting an apron or something similar. Then I realize it's money I could spend on other things. I wear the same shirts I wear when I work out. I do my best to get most of the dust off before throwing them in the hamper. I thought about getting coveralls, but I remembered I've never liked wearing them and I'm not sure this would change. Especially now that it's starting to warm up. Elston Gunn posted:I'm looking at this table saw on CL, is it worth $200? I don't really know enough to say. If the base is sturdy then I guess? I'm using one from around the same time (Craftsman though) and I'm not all that fond of it. I'd imagine depending on what you want to do - if sheet goods/tablesaws are going to play a significant part of it, you may want to spend more and get a better saw.
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Apr 11, 2011 23:18
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Elston Gunn posted:I'm looking at this table saw on CL, is it worth $200? The fence looks 100% identical to the fence from my circa-1960's tablesaw. I hated that fence, and it was a contributing factor in more than one incident. Once I replaced the fence with a nicer one, however, the saw become great. In any event, it's something to consider: if the fence is out of square at all, is it at all possible to adjust it? (With that particular fence, I think the answer is "NO")...but like I did, you can always replace it if it's a problem.
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Apr 11, 2011 23:37
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Personally, if I knew I was going to replace the fence, I'd look for a better deal. This assumes your area has a high enough CL post rate to "keep looking."
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Apr 12, 2011 00:00
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So the Grizzly bandsaws were recommended as a good value. How do you folks feel about their lathes? I'm looking in the midrange, I think. Certainly not their OMGPOWERHOUR level, and definitely not their miniature hobby level.
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Apr 12, 2011 00:18
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I think Grizzly metal lathes are moderately respected. Not sure if that helps at all. Grizzly pretty much specializes in machinery as far as I know, so I'm a little more prone to trust that their stuff is of better quality.
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Apr 12, 2011 02:44
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Picked up the Rigid oscillating combination belt / drum sander today at Home Depot after work. These adirondack chairs I'm building just about require you have one due to all the curves. I am very happy with it in my limited use. It was more expensive than the harbor freight sanding drum only model, but Rigid has lifetime service agreements on all of thei power tools, so that adds some value. Plus you get the oscillating belt too, which was nice too. A floor model OSS was out of the question, just no more room in the shop. I want to get a proper dust collector too, but I will probably have to build a new shop to fit it in.
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Apr 13, 2011 01:31
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LordOfThePants posted:Picked up the Rigid oscillating combination belt / drum sander today at Home Depot after work. These adirondack chairs I'm building just about require you have one due to all the curves. I am very happy with it in my limited use. It was more expensive than the harbor freight sanding drum only model, but Rigid has lifetime service agreements on all of thei power tools, so that adds some value. Plus you get the oscillating belt too, which was nice too. I bought one of those from my friend when he closed his shop. Best stationary tool made by Ridgid hands down. You're going to love that thing.
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Apr 13, 2011 04:56
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Elston Gunn posted:I'm looking at this table saw on CL, is it worth $200? Stamped metal wings, probably a universal motor (direct drive, not belt drive), old crappy fence: $100-$125 max. But I wouldn't buy it at all. Might as well buy this: http://columbiamo.craigslist.org/tls/2317495295.html
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Apr 13, 2011 07:01
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I need a cheap and easy way to seal some plywood for use as a work surface. I don't care how it looks or how smooth it is, just that it keeps water/oil from soaking in and delaminating it. Being relatively heat resistant would help too since some of the stuff going on it may be 400-500F.
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Apr 13, 2011 23:38
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oxbrain posted:I need a cheap and easy way to seal some plywood for use as a work surface. I don't care how it looks or how smooth it is, just that it keeps water/oil from soaking in and delaminating it. Being relatively heat resistant would help too since some of the stuff going on it may be 400-500F. Buy a cheap can of polyurethane and slap a few coats on it.
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Apr 14, 2011 01:50
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