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CharlesWillisMaddox posted:Anyone have a recommendation for a shop fan? The shop I work at gets really hot in my end of the shop (I grind and torch cut all day)and I wanted to get a good metal work fan designed for being in a shop. How much do you want to spend? http://www.bigassfans.com/industrial
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Apr 3, 2011 22:52
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Poknok posted:bee invasion Determine if they are honey bees. If so, make a post on craigslist that you have a free hive of honey bees living in your eves and see if you can't get a home beekeeper to come take them from you. I have a couple buddies who raise bees and have done this sort of thing, free of charge (minus the bees). Also, that looks like a wasp nest to me, but I really don't know anything about bees or wasps. I'd include that pic, along with a pic of one of these "bees" in your craigslist plea for help.
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Apr 3, 2011 23:37
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artificialj posted:Determine if they are honey bees. If so, make a post on craigslist that you have a free hive of honey bees living in your eves and see if you can't get a home beekeeper to come take them from you. I have a couple buddies who raise bees and have done this sort of thing, free of charge (minus the bees). After seeing the nest, I too think that I'm dealing with some kind of potter wasps. But these aren't the kind of wasps I'm used to; all the wasps I've seen (and been stung by) have had longish and shiny bodies. The bugs I'm dealing with now have short, stocky and somewhat hairy beige bodies and lack the characteristic yellow-black striped pattern on their asses. I could try to catch one of these fuckers but I have no idea how to do so - they don't enter my room where I could easily catch one, and if I spray them outside they're just going to fly away and croak hell knows where. There's a distinct possibility that I took a picture of a long-abandoned wasp's nest (the window in question hasn't been opened since 2002, look at all the cobwebs) and that the flying bugs are actual bees. Still, without catching one I can't be sure, and I ain't going anywhere near that nest. I accidentally sat on a wasp's nest a few years ago and got the poo poo stung out of me in my lower back; the swelling was pretty nasty and the lower part of my body somehow stopped responding until the swelling passed. I'm not quite eager to replay that scenario with my face. Poknok fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Apr 4, 2011 |
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Apr 4, 2011 00:38
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Anyone know where I can get something like this or this? Most likely the first one. I want to try and make a liquid to liquid heat exchanger, but it has to be cheap and ok with a salt water aquarium. From what I've seen so far the only other thing that would be alright would be titanium tubing, other metals would corrode or be poisonous to livestock. Titanium would be easy to get from McMaster-Carr or whatever, but I don't know how to work with it. I don't think I would be able to solder it and not gently caress up. I don't have the tools to work with it at all, unless a hacksaw counts. I figure if I had heat transfer tubing like that, I could just grab a length of pvc, cap off both ends and put barb fittings in there. The salt water would run in the cavity between the tube and pipe, and I could run my other fluid through the tube itself in the opposite direction.
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Apr 4, 2011 01:17
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ChikoDemono posted:Thanks for the response. Is there a way to determine size without the manual/box/whatever? With calipers or a ruler you can check the outside diameter and match it to this chart http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_pipe_thread (Assuming it's NPT...which it should be)
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Apr 4, 2011 01:19
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Why are you so intent on killing these mystery flying insects. They are not harming you, right? Just leave them alone, let them do their thing and you do yours. Most wasps are predators that eradicate other pests
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Apr 4, 2011 01:25
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Poknok posted:wasp nest horror story Jesus, that sounds awful. Yeah, don't try to catch one. Just take a picture if you see one land somewhere or something. Also, maybe try to get some sort of foam wasp killer and foam the hell out of that nest (while staying as far away as possible).
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Apr 4, 2011 01:27
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grover posted:Yeah, a little caulk will make that look absolutely perfect. Good job! Did 11 degrees work out, then? Yeah man worked great, how did you come up with that number if you don't mind me asking? Finished: 
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Apr 4, 2011 02:10
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Daggerpants posted:Yeah man worked great, how did you come up with that number if you don't mind me asking? That's a really nice job!
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Apr 4, 2011 13:09
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So I have a basement water problem. A couple months ago we had a giant sewer problem that required me to dig up the front yard and replace the sewer pipe, along with jackhammering a trench in the basement floor and replacing the sewer line under the basement. I re-poured concrete in the trench (filled around the pipe with sand and gravel, poured the new concrete a little more than 4" thick (the basement floor was about 4".)) Everything with the sewer line is fine now, but whenever it rains hard water seeps up in the new concrete area. None comes up in the old floor, but enough comes up through the new area that it sheets out across the basement floor. What can I do to prevent a wet basement floor every time it rains?
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Apr 4, 2011 21:12
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Daggerpants posted:Yeah man worked great, how did you come up with that number if you don't mind me asking?  Each piece needs to be mitered the same amount. Since straight pieces of trim total 180 degrees normally, you need to cut a total of 45 degrees out of it to get to 135 degrees. 45/2 = 22.5 degrees per each of the 2 joints. 22.5/2 = 11.25 degree miter on each end. Easy!
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Apr 7, 2011 03:16
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Alright, I managed to catch one of the bugs! The body is unfortunately discolored and filthy from moisture as I went crazy with bug spray on it, but imagine that they are slightly yellowish/brown and fuzzy. Pictures linked for huge. http://i.imgur.com/0o3lX.jpg http://i.imgur.com/RMBVu.jpg http://i.imgur.com/jVZ1C.jpg http://i.imgur.com/v12Zr.jpg http://i.imgur.com/EyYLl.jpg They apparently have four wings (one pair of which is somewhat smaller than the other), and the third (hind) pair of legs has extentions, apparently for pollen collection. This is why I said that I suspect these to be honey bees. Notice that all but the first picture are illuminated by blue LED light (i.e. hi-res but wrong color). Anyone?
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Apr 8, 2011 17:03
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Looks like a dead honey bee to me: Are they still flying in and out of your window? If the activity starts to pick up, I'd start to get worried that they're building a hive in your wall. I'm not an expert, but even though it's just a couple, it may be prudent to take preventative measures now. If I remember correctly, bee's can swarm pretty quick and move together as one to protect the queen. Note that they like warm, dry, dark places, like the inside of a tree or your walls in this case. jvick fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Apr 8, 2011 |
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Apr 8, 2011 18:27
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Yes, the activity is picking up and they are everywhere. The bee in your picture looks exactly like my bug in a pristine state.
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Apr 8, 2011 19:22
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I really hope this is a quick question. My barn has three sets of lights, controlled up front by three switches - just rows of incandescents/fluorescents. At the back door, one of the rows of lights has another switch, so that bay of lights can be turned on/off by either the front door switch or the back door switch. I need to put a receptacle in by the back door, and the nearest box is that switch box. Can I run a normal always-hot receptacle off of the switch? I found this site but I think it's saying I need 12/3 from the light socket to the light switch. That sucks and it's more trouble than just buying an extra 50' of 12/2 and hooking my new receptacle up to a normal receptacle at the front of the barn. Is that right?
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Apr 8, 2011 22:45
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VikingKitten posted:I really hope this is a quick question. Nope, you can't run an always-hot receptacle off the second switch of a 3-way switch branch, and depending on the wiring method used, you probably couldn't even wire up a switched-hot receptacle. You'll be better off wiring to that other receptacle like you said, or even the box with the 3 switches. You'll also want to use a weather-resistant GFCI since it is an outdoor receptacle...
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Apr 9, 2011 00:06
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kid sinister posted:Nope, you can't run an always-hot receptacle off the second switch of a 3-way switch branch, and depending on the wiring method used, you probably couldn't even wire up a switched-hot receptacle. You'll be better off wiring to that other receptacle like you said, or even the box with the 3 switches. You'll also want to use a weather-resistant GFCI since it is an outdoor receptacle... Cool, that's what I thought. I'll use a good outdoor receptacle, the kind with the lid that closes over it even when something's plugged in. It's for an electric fence so no GFCI.
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Apr 9, 2011 00:28
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Poknok posted:Yes, the activity is picking up and they are everywhere. The bee in your picture looks exactly like my bug in a pristine state. Maybe these dudes will have some advice: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3091681&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1
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Apr 9, 2011 01:52
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VikingKitten posted:Cool, that's what I thought. I'll use a good outdoor receptacle, the kind with the lid that closes over it even when something's plugged in. It's for an electric fence so no GFCI. The codebook doesn't care about your electric fence. Get a GFCI.
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Apr 9, 2011 02:00
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Cross-posting from the leatherworking thread (it's a somewhat general question and that one moves pretty slow): I want to patch this split in an old leather bag to make it light-tight again. I used some gaffer's tape initially, but it doesn't hold up very well. It's also got to be on the inside; when I'm operating the magazine I have to pull these metal septums (kind of like cards that you slide sheets of film onto to hold them flat) into the bag, and the corners have a tendency to catch on the patch and start going through the tape, destroying my makeshift patch. Basically, I need something stronger on the inside, as well as reinforcing on the outside that's going to hold up to moderate use, and is fairly easy to come by and apply (obvious complete leatherworking novice here). The ideal solution is to remove the bag and replace it completely, but I don't want to butcher my film changing bag for the material, and pretty much just want it for this weekend and maybe next. It doesn't matter if it uglies up the bag or is permanent; these things aren't that valuable or rare and I'm eventually going to convert the camera to take another type of back that this type of film holder is incompatible with anyways. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, hoping it to take it out tomorrow!
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Apr 9, 2011 16:18
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Get some flexible backing material, like the nylon tent patching stuff, and put it on the inside. Glob some extra glue on there with a hot glue gun and mush it into the crack. The hot glue should bind to the leather where the adhesive on the nylon patch material won't stick very well. Once you have it all smeared in there, a top cover of gaffer's tape should seal the top and provide light tightness. This material: http://tinyurl.com/3dkcg2x You may want to wear a glove because you'll be mushing hot glue around and that can get kind of toasty.
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Apr 9, 2011 19:15
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CuddleChunks posted:Get some flexible backing material, like the nylon tent patching stuff, and put it on the inside. Glob some extra glue on there with a hot glue gun and mush it into the crack. The hot glue should bind to the leather where the adhesive on the nylon patch material won't stick very well. Once you have it all smeared in there, a top cover of gaffer's tape should seal the top and provide light tightness. Awesome, thanks! There's a Joanne's not far from where I live. Any decent hot glue substitutes you can think of? I don't think I have one (or much of an occasion to use one outside of this repair job). edit: found hot glue gun, applied the patch. Held up for a couple of cycles, but the septun just cut a new hole in the bag pretty soon  Not much you can do for disintegrating 90 year old leather, I guess the original tear was just the beginning of the end.
Pompous Rhombus fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Apr 10, 2011 |
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Apr 9, 2011 19:51
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I've got a lot of these weed-tree-crazy things growing along side my property line. The previous owners cut them, and they eventually resprout like a hydra and laugh at me. I don't have access to a stump grinder, and I don't mind having to cut them every year to control them if I need to. I read that cutting them, then drilling holes into the stump and filling those holes with weed killer might do the job? Is there anything like a paint that I can simply paint on the entire stump? I'm tempted to just get some hardcore latex and just rubberize the things. Stumps are about 1-2" in diamter. Fairly small, but by the end of summer those things branch out to 10' tall crazy weed tree things.
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Apr 10, 2011 19:07
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You can buy specialised stump killer that does exactly this job - as you say, drill holes, pour nasty poo poo in, lord it over inferior plant life.
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Apr 10, 2011 19:12
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Try some Tordon. Basically, you mix up some of that herbicide, make a fresh cut into the living parts of the stump, then brush or spray some of it in the cut.
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Apr 10, 2011 19:21
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When burying a post in dirt without pouring concrete, I've heard both 1' per 1" of post width and 40% of post height as recommendations. Basically I'm wondering how deep I should dig the hole to plant a mailbox post (4x4, about 4-5' high) since the glacially deposited soil around here can be real crappy to dig in.
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Apr 10, 2011 19:31
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Not much you can do for disintegrating 90 year old leather, I guess the original tear was just the beginning of the end. http://www.electricedge.com/greymatter/archives/00006191.htm That's the kind of camera you're working with, right? I did some searching and folks appear to be looking towards getting new bags made by leatherworkers or they rig up a new bag using blackout cloth from the local fabric store. It seems they often make the new bag a little bigger and then line it with something tear resistant (like a very light wool) to allow changing of the film without ripping up your new bag. Here are folks that are in the same situation as you: http://www.apug.org/forums/archive/index.php/t-18550.html
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Apr 10, 2011 20:32
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Thanks for the previous help on electrical. I have another fixture and a question about wiring. In the first picture is the ceiling outlet with the ground and white & black. In the second picture is the bottom of the light fixture and there are two white, two black and a ground. Do I simply connect the fixtures two blacks to the one black in the outlet and same for white? And as for ground in the second picture with the fixture there is a mounting bracket with a ground screw. Do I connect both the ground from the outlet and fixture to it or just the one from the fixture?  
calcio fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Apr 10, 2011 |
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Apr 10, 2011 22:40
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Poknok posted:Alright, I managed to catch one of the bugs! The body is unfortunately discolored and filthy from moisture as I went crazy with bug spray on it, but imagine that they are slightly yellowish/brown and fuzzy. Pictures linked for huge. someone else mentioned honeybee, but it may be a carpenter bee. They look pretty similar, except carpenter bees are usually darker in color, which that one appears to be. If it is, they're named carpenter bees because they do some woodwork if you don't get rid of them.
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Apr 10, 2011 22:41
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calcio posted:Thanks for the previous help on electrical. I have another fixture and a question about wiring. Twist and cap all whites together and all blacks together. As for the ground, bend the end of the box ground wire into a hook, then tighten it and the fixture ground wire under that mounting bracket ground screw. That will tie all the grounding wires together without relying on the bracket mounting screws for a grounding path.
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Apr 10, 2011 23:15
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Oddball question but are there any options for retrofitting a sliding glass door with a secure lockset? Im considering a sliding glass door to be used as the entrance for a small building but am looking at second hand
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Apr 11, 2011 06:06
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I have two of these IKEA fixtures in my basement. They are both on the same switched circuit. If I leave them both on for a while, one string will go out. The other never does. If I switch them off, then back on right away, they will both be on again. I thought it was a transformer overheating, but would that be the case if I can just cycle it back on like that? How can I confirm? Neither transformer base feels particularly warm. http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/40135686
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Apr 11, 2011 23:26
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How feasible would it be to build an Aerotrim / human gyroscope? The basic construction seems pretty simple: a sturdy base, three concentric metal rings with heavy-duty connectors and a spot to safely stand in.
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Apr 12, 2011 08:11
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Philthy posted:I've got a lot of these weed-tree-crazy things growing along side my property line. The previous owners cut them, and they eventually resprout like a hydra and laugh at me. Either spray them with shrub/brush killer or we used to kill black locust by ringing them... chopping the bark off in a ring around the tree. Not fast but it works.
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Apr 13, 2011 07:27
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So I've got a rusty old basketball post (still functional, with hoop) cemented in my driveway. I've got young kids, so it's getting a little use now and I see more down the road. It's similar to any old post, like this one: http://imgur.com/HdLnS I've got it about halfway sanded down and Rustoleum "heavy rust" primed. Is there anything useful I could do to the pole with the upcoming paint job? I'm just thinking out loud here, but are there any games or activities where it would be useful to have painted markings? Heights, perhaps?
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Apr 13, 2011 21:11
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Zahgaegun posted:So I've got a rusty old basketball post (still functional, with hoop) cemented in my driveway. I've got young kids, so it's getting a little use now and I see more down the road. It's similar to any old post, like this one: http://imgur.com/HdLnS I've got it about halfway sanded down and Rustoleum "heavy rust" primed. Tetherball?
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Apr 13, 2011 21:51
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stimpy posted:someone else mentioned honeybee, but it may be a carpenter bee. They look pretty similar, except carpenter bees are usually darker in color, which that one appears to be. If it is, they're named carpenter bees because they do some woodwork if you don't get rid of them. I agree with this, and I would call an exterminator. I didn't even think of a carpenter bee...
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Apr 14, 2011 05:04
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jvick posted:I agree with this, and I would call an exterminator. I didn't even think of a carpenter bee... I actually contacted a beekeeper over this and he said that he's almost positive that these are honey bees - but he's not sure exactly what kind of a honey bee it is (the bee in my picture was completely wet and covered in rug lint so it was hard to tell). He said that it may be a wild hermit/solitary bee (which is also a type of a honey bee), but I don't know enough about bees to be able to tell the difference. I didn't get to see a single bee yesterday. We had a spell of horrid weather over the past few days - a cold front with a major drop in air temperature; a huge rainstorm and gusts of unpleasantly cold wind. I don't know whether the bees thought that it would be best to remain in the hive, whether they packed up their stuff and left, or maybe if I killed them all with bug spray. I will keep an eye open today for bee activity. edit: yeop, the bees are still here. The weather is still crappy, and I only saw three of them today. It would seem that they refuse to leave their nest during rain/cold wind/overcast. Poknok fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Apr 14, 2011 |
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Apr 14, 2011 07:42
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We just bought our house last year, and it has circa 80 year old original hardwood floors. In some of the higher traffic areas, the stain (or polyurethane?) has started to wear off it seems and a bit of gray is visible. I've never had hardwood floors before, so I have no idea what I need to do here. Can anyone give me any suggestions that I can possibly do on my own?
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Apr 15, 2011 05:49
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stimpy posted:We just bought our house last year, and it has circa 80 year old original hardwood floors. In some of the higher traffic areas, the stain (or polyurethane?) has started to wear off it seems and a bit of gray is visible. I've never had hardwood floors before, so I have no idea what I need to do here. Can anyone give me any suggestions that I can possibly do on my own? Best thing you can do is to machine sand off the hardwood floor in the whole house and then reapply translucent lacquer for a nice glossy finish. Not exactly cheap, but better than just patching up damaged areas. I have a same problem like you, the hardwood floors are hideously worn where my computer chair is located, down to the point where wood is literally splintering away. I might even need to replace the wood in these damaged bald spots.
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Apr 15, 2011 06:26
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