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Can I run a 7.4v 13500mAh LiPo in it? The run time looks great and to be honest I can't see a need to go for 65+ mph bashing and/or racing. I mean that's asking to wreck the bastard. This is expensive but I'm really dumb and like how everything here is ready to go: http://www.maxamps.com/Lipo-13500XL-74-Slash-Pack.htm That run time is absolutely freaking beautiful too. The charger looks like I could use it for a 3S 11.1v pack too. 2S with a higher run time is more appealing to me.
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Apr 12, 2011 18:37
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VibrioCholera posted:Can I run a 7.4v 13500mAh LiPo in it? The run time looks great and to be honest I can't see a need to go for 65+ mph bashing and/or racing. I mean that's asking to wreck the bastard. that is a way expensive battery... I'd much rather have three 5000-5300mAH batteries instead, and you'd be substantially cheaper. Not to mention, if you slam something really hard and kill the pack, you've still got backup batteries and aren't out 200 bucks! I've had extremely good luck with Gens Ace batteries - they're ROAR approved if you ever decide to go racing (and your track requires ROAR batts, many do) and reasonably priced. http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-40c-5000-2s1p-hardcase.html The turnigy hard pack lipos linked earlier are another great choice. Just get something in the 5000mAH range and you will be surprised at the run time. Honestly it's better on your truck to let it cool a little bit between packs - depending on how you're geared the motor can get pretty drat hot in less time than the bigger packs will offer for runtime. At least if you're changing packs out every 15-20 minutes the truck will have a LITTLE time to cool 
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Apr 12, 2011 19:02
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needknees posted:that is a way expensive battery... I'd much rather have three 5000-5300mAH batteries instead, and you'd be substantially cheaper. Not to mention, if you slam something really hard and kill the pack, you've still got backup batteries and aren't out 200 bucks! drat, I didn't know better and bought it. The charger (I upgraded) should be suffice and I can buy cheaper packs later?
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Apr 12, 2011 19:27
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That was kinda dumb, guy. I'd cancel it. Especially considering they're twice as big as any regular batteryquote:162mm x 45mm x 39mm, 654g Also, 654 grams = 1.44182319 pounds
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Apr 12, 2011 19:42
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For comparison, the gens ace:quote:Size: 138 * 46.5 * 25mm (L * W * H) Those maxamps batteries are 2s2p cells. They bait suckers with ridiculous numbers like that.
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Apr 12, 2011 19:44
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And in case I haven't convinced you yet, the gens ace packs are also hardcases - they'll stand up to abuse a bit better.
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Apr 12, 2011 19:46
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kuffs posted:That was kinda dumb, guy. I'd cancel it. Especially considering they're twice as big as any regular battery ! I can definitely cancel I'm sure. Just as a newbie who really wants to do this (and doesn't really have a future goal for a tax return) it seemed like the easiest setup. I'll definitely try the GenAce. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Apr 12, 2011 |
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Apr 12, 2011 20:32
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VibrioCholera posted:! I can definitely cancel I'm sure. Just as a newbie who really wants to do this (and doesn't really have a future goal for a tax return) it seemed like the easiest setup. I'll definitely try the GenAce. Cancel that crap!! Next time, wait more than 25 minutes between asking if it is a good idea and purchasing it. Also - when you get the truck and batteries, please read the manual BEFORE you go out and run it. The Slash ESC isn't set up to run LiPo's out of the box - you need to set the ESC to use the low voltage cutoff or whatever it's called. Only takes a few seconds, but I'm guessing you could damage your batteries if you forget about that and run them too low. Someone else might be able to explain better.
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Apr 12, 2011 21:58
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While we're on batteries... I'm using some cheap Venom NIMH hump packs in my D8, and they seem to be working well enough.. but I'd like to move to LiPo for the peace of mind... any suggestions on a smallish pack that'll fit without having to cut anything up?
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Apr 12, 2011 22:49
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I have a couple of these and they're pretty awesome. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8272
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Apr 12, 2011 23:02
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VibrioCholera posted:! I can definitely cancel I'm sure. Just as a newbie who really wants to do this (and doesn't really have a future goal for a tax return) it seemed like the easiest setup. I'll definitely try the GenAce. You'll be a lot happier this way 
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Apr 12, 2011 23:03
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kuffs posted:You'll be a lot happier this way I already have ordered the other charger - can I just keep that and order the Gen Ace batteries? Any specific adapter I should need? Also thanks for the "read the loving manual" advice. I would have probably but my biggest fear is wrecking stuff. LiPo ready to me woulda meant "plug n play durrrr run car crash hurr"  As long as the manual tells me what to do I should be pretty good to go!As someone who has sold PC and TVs for a while I feel like this company must be the Monster of batteries or something. Heh. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Apr 12, 2011 |
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Apr 12, 2011 23:40
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Yeah, cancel that battery. I own 2 batteries total, one 2s 5000mah for my sc10 and one 4s 4500mah for my 1/8th buggy. I race a ton and that's all I need. Lipos last a while and can be charged must faster than the old nimh. Btw, for anyone running a turnigy battery. Make sure you balance charge that sucker. When I first hooked mine up one cell was way off. Balanced it and all is well with the world.
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Apr 12, 2011 23:51
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VibrioCholera posted:I already have ordered the other charger - can I just keep that and order the Gen Ace batteries? Any specific adapter I should need? 'Other' charger? Both the Turnigy and the Duratrax Onyx will be fine for your use. You'll probably want to buy some Traxxas connectors if you're all about painless compatibility.
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Apr 13, 2011 00:01
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Nerobro posted:So how about a little update. Pardon my ignorance, but what is this little concentrated piece of awesome?
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Apr 13, 2011 00:05
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VibrioCholera posted:I already have ordered the other charger - can I just keep that and order the Gen Ace batteries? Any specific adapter I should need? You'll find that in the R/C world, "Ready to X" or "X ready" generally means that it will do X with some (but not much) work, or without spending money on extra stuff. Rarely does it really mean "This can do X right out of the box, no changes to anything". The thing about that big 13000 battery you ordered is that the big capacity does mean long run time, but it means long charge times as well. With those $20 Hobby king batteries I linked earlier, you could buy 10 of them for the same price as that battery, and get 50000mah of battery instead of 13000. A larger amount of batteries is almost always better than one big one. The only place this doesnt really apply is in the RC flight world where running out of battery at the wrong time can be catastrophic.
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Apr 13, 2011 02:02
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VibrioCholera posted:I already have ordered the other charger - can I just keep that and order the Gen Ace batteries? Any specific adapter I should need? Sorry if I sounded like a jackass. Another bit of "RTFM" has to deal with the charger and batteries. LiPo's need to be charged a specific way - all dependent on the number of cells and the capacity. Be sure you know how to set up the charger before you jump in. Bad things can happen if you don't follow directions!!!
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Apr 13, 2011 03:59
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nummy posted:Sorry if I sounded like a jackass. Yeah, and if you mess up with any of these cheap Chinese chargers, they get racist:  That 200W charger wasn't out when I ordered mine, looks like it's the exact same control setup as every other cheap Chinese charger, just with higher amperage.
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Apr 13, 2011 06:44
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Ziploc posted:Pardon my ignorance, but what is this little concentrated piece of awesome? http://www.losi.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSB0238 It's the 1/24 4x4 Trail Trekker. It is concentrated awesome. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32NpgFnUi0g LiPo makes it even more awesome. having 450mah instead of 225 means I get bored long before the truck is done.
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Apr 13, 2011 17:05
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Apart from SA, what RC forums do you guys go to? I'm curious about this because I mostly check out RedRC & NeoBuggy, which have no forum and a little-used forum, respectively, and every now and then I'll check out RCTech, which I think is still mostly on-road. RCCrawler is another good one but they're only about crawlers of course.
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Apr 13, 2011 20:01
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RCShortCourse is a good one for strictly short-course info, otherwise I browse around RCTech. They have a pretty busy Nitro Off-Road, which is what I read there, mostly, and a very lively electric on-road section.
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Apr 13, 2011 20:19
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I just received my Slash 4x4 in the mail and I'm in love. I don't think I let the battery charge long enough. Played with it for a good chunk of time though before it died. I guess it's a good thing it died. I was getting ballsy down the sidewalk going full speed and I was a bump or steering wheel jerk away to a parked car wheel. Would have been ugly. It was so pretty and shiny then I learned it can't take full throttle turns and it did barrel rolls. I guess it'll take some practice to ramp the lil' thing off curbs. Ugh, gotta wait for it to charge.  Have a baseball diamond to run around on in the morning. My LiPo 2S 7.4Vs should be here tomorrow. It seems easy to change the car over to LiPo mode (green light instead of red light.) I've seen LiPos burn or something. Assuming I RTFM I'm pretty safe? Any MUST KNOW DUHH IDIOT information to know? VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Apr 14, 2011 |
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Apr 14, 2011 04:09
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VibrioCholera posted:I've seen LiPos burn or something. Assuming I RTFM I'm pretty safe? Any MUST KNOW DUHH IDIOT information to know? Not that I can really think of off the top of my head. Just RTFM... Also - to any of you guys picking up a new RC vehicle, I highly recommend the 'Outerwears' prefilters. Makes cleaning up so much easier. Heck - half the time I don't even really need to clean up.
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Apr 14, 2011 04:34
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nummy posted:Not that I can really think of off the top of my head. Just RTFM... I took a look. Looks really drat useful. I have an air compressor and spare car detailing tools everything right now I can use on it. I have noticed just dry running it it accumulates a bunch of debris not counting going on dirt hills or something. I read the manual... basically I just set the ESC to low power voltage mode or something so it cuts off at certain battery levels for safety. I read the charger manual as well. So simple - Thanks for all the assistance. Everything I need to know seems to come in from reading about the bats / charger. This all makes way more sense now that I have this stuff in my hands. It's like 11pm right now and I want to go out there and beat the piss out of the car some more it's that fun. It's just too drat dark to see the freaking thing anymore and I really don't feel like picking up pieces of my new toy. I already want a low center of gravity car like the Focus or Revo. edit: My god, I can't wait for my charger to get here. The one that came with the thing stock takes EIGHT HOURS to charge a 3000mAh battery. EIGHT HOURS. Hell, even if my LiPos will take a couple to get full tonight I think that new NiMH/LiPo/LiFe charger will do my 3000mAh faster than EIGHT HOURS? VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Apr 14, 2011 |
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Apr 14, 2011 04:47
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VibrioCholera posted:edit: My god, I can't wait for my charger to get here. The one that came with the thing stock takes EIGHT HOURS to charge a 3000mAh battery. EIGHT HOURS. Hell, even if my LiPos will take a couple to get full tonight I think that new NiMH/LiPo/LiFe charger will do my 3000mAh faster than EIGHT HOURS? WHOA WHOA WHOA DO NOT charge your lipos with the charger that came with your slash, or there's a very good chance you'll start a fire.
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Apr 14, 2011 19:29
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needknees posted:WHOA WHOA WHOA Oh yeah! I totally knew that. I have another charger that is everything/LiPo/LiFe safe coming in today. I was just dumbfounded that charging the stock 3000mAh battery took that drat long. Thing is worthless. If anyone is as dumb as me I found this guy pretty easy to understand (I'm sure there's shorter videos but he does a nice job.) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NsEiLAjV3II&NR=1&feature=fvwp VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Apr 14, 2011 |
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Apr 14, 2011 19:52
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Just thought I'd share this -- I picked up a big-rear end dent in the exhaust pipe on my D8 and didn't notice it until I was cleaning it up last night. I did some Googling around and found where people recommended filling it about 3/4 the way with water, plugging the holes, and leaving it in the freezer for an hour. I was skeptical, but I figured, what the hell? Worst case scenario, it just overflows. I leave it in about an hour, check it, and the water had overflowed out of the top. I knock a little bit of ice out of it out, put some more water in, and throw it back. I come back in another hour, and figure I'll look at... the.. the dent? It was... right here? No, it.. hmmm.. Where did.. holy poo poo! It worked!
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Apr 14, 2011 22:41
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VibrioCholera posted:Oh yeah! I totally knew that. I have another charger that is everything/LiPo/LiFe safe coming in today. I was just dumbfounded that charging the stock 3000mAh battery took that drat long. Thing is worthless. NiMH / NiCd cells can't be charged at the same rate as a Lipo. With NiMH / NiCd the limiting factor in charge rate is cooking the hell out of the cell, whereas with most Lipos big enough for a car the limiting factor is the wattage of the charger.
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Apr 15, 2011 00:19
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Seems easy enough, charger is loud so I think I'm about to burn my house down but I guess it's working (the fans.) Trial and error. Read everything. I'm not going to jack with the NiMH anymore. It's charging at 2C. Is that too quickly? VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Apr 15, 2011 |
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Apr 15, 2011 00:54
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VibrioCholera posted:Seems easy enough, charger is loud so I think I'm about to burn my house down but I guess it's working (the fans.) Trial and error. Read everything. I'm not going to jack with the NiMH anymore. 2c on a 3000mAH batt is 6A. that's a ton for a NiMH batt.... you should be charging at 1-2a if you give a poo poo about that battery and aren't out to kill it in a hurry. As iowncalculus mentioned you can push a lot more amps through a lipo. Most lipos can be charged at 1c, many are capable of being charged at 2-5c... just depends on the quality of the cells and what the manufacturer recommends - the gens ace batteries can vbe charged up to 5c iirc, which in a 5000mah battery is 25 amps! Way more tba. Most chargers can push. I charge most of ny lipos at 5a cause its a safe rate for my batteries and really all my charger can muster.
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Apr 15, 2011 01:34
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needknees posted:2c on a 3000mAH batt is 6A. that's a ton for a NiMH batt.... you should be charging at 1-2a if you give a poo poo about that battery and aren't out to kill it in a hurry. I have my LiPo in hand right now though. I'm running the LiPo at 2C... although it stopped short of it's max by far (shows it around 2800 and max set to 5k) and I had it set to charge to 100% as far as I know. (Hyperion Charger) Scratch that: I think I figured it out. The charger only tells you what capacity it put in there... not what it has. As far as what's going on it just says 100%. I thought it was broken and only charging to half it's capacity at 2500 but it really meant it put 2500mAh in there and it's now AT 100%. I ran it. drat thing for being a 2S runs ridiculously fast. It's incredible. The fun has doubled. but it's a hell of a lot easier to make a really bad wrong steer now as well. Nearly took it or my mailbox out but I'm highly addicted to this and will soon amass a few more packs. I'm running into the problem of my controller seeming to go dead. I don't know if the AA in there are not seating correctly or what. I used some cheap (Aldi) AA in there and tossed em. Tried some Energizer 2500mAh rechargeable but they've been laying around for at least 4 years now. Charger says they're good. I might just go pay for some electronics specific non-rechargeable Energizer/Duracell batteries to solve that problem. I hope the scared shitless feeling of breaking it goes away with time sort of like any new toy. I'm still scared of full speed runs and really giving it a good ramping. Most it's seen is a foot off the floor coming off a soft curb which is usually somersaults onto its hood. Heh heh. Thanks a ton for all the help no doubt from everything. I think I'm done cluttering this thread and now start to look for more stuff to toy with. This is going to get really expensive fast, sort of addicting. I'm already looking at different tires, reading on shocks, and thinking about what kind of body I'd like to paint. It's like motorized Warhammer. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Apr 15, 2011 |
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Apr 15, 2011 02:27
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Yeah, you should keep your lipos at about a half charge for storage - fully charged or discharged is bad for their longevity.
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Apr 15, 2011 05:06
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, you should keep your lipos at about a half charge for storage - fully charged or discharged is bad for their longevity. I thought the rule of thumb with charging a Lipo was capacity/1000 to work out what amps to charge it at. So 5000mah battery would be charged at 5amps, etc.
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Apr 15, 2011 05:58
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I thought the safest voltage to store a lipo at (as in you're not going to use it for more than a week) is the 'storage' voltage of 3.8v/cell. Otherwise yeah they're not limited by the same "battery memory" of a NiMH/NiCd and you can recharge them whenever.
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Apr 15, 2011 06:12
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Just picked up a 1/12th scale car and spares, going to borrow electronics and hit practice day at a local track sometime soon. What the hell am I getting myself into.
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Apr 15, 2011 12:21
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Finally upgraded to a good radio... picked up a lightly used M11X and HOLY poo poo so much goddamn functionality. Too much, really. I think I'm going to end up spending more time fiddling with my radio than driving!
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Apr 15, 2011 15:09
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needknees posted:I think I'm going to end up spending more time fiddling with my radio than driving! This is what drivers do when they have a brain fart and crash for no reason. Pull off and look down at your radio, pretend to press some buttons, then drive off.
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Apr 15, 2011 15:17
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Me again. I'm in love after going LiPo. It's like how the car was meant to run. Finally got to play with it this morning and see it in action. It's cool going nearly twice the speed limit of the street I live on. Learned not to turn it at that speed though. Looked like a tumbleweed going across the entire state of Texas. It started raining and that sort of killed my grand plans of going to a local forest or something and running around since I don't feel like cleaning all that off.All that fun and there's still 3S LiPos I haven't discovered.  I don't plan on going hardcore on the bashing like 35 foot vertical jumps or anything but right now I do roll it / somersault it / run it through dirt a fair amount. First thing I'd like to maybe fix: Under/over steer. It likes to lean hard on turns. Do they make little sway bars or something to try to keep the body down or would this annihilate some off road ability? Also, any other REALLY useful modifications that most people immediately swap out? LiPo seemed like the most useful. The little BFGs it came with seem great but are there other ones that may be a better for off-road use? VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Apr 15, 2011 |
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Apr 15, 2011 19:53
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As far as tires, it depends largely on your terrain. The new Pro-Line Trenchers look like they'd be a great basher All-Terrain. I have a set of their Street Fighters for running on pavement and they're pretty nice. For racing, I've pretty much gone with all JConcepts stuff and have been really happy with them so far. If you're off-roading mostly, the Goose Bumps or Double-Dees would probably be a good choice. Basically, the looser the terrain you're driving on, the longer tread pins you want.needknees posted:Finally upgraded to a good radio... picked up a lightly used M11X and HOLY poo poo so much goddamn functionality. Too much, really. I think I'm going to end up spending more time fiddling with my radio than driving! I can imagine! I've had a Spektrum DX3S for a few months now and I only just this past weekend learned how to set endpoints with it. I'm still trying to get the hang of setting expo... TremorX fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Apr 15, 2011 |
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Apr 15, 2011 21:15
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So my spring break was this past week and while I got almost nothing done I promised myself I would, I did manage to rebuild my Tamiya DF03RA Rally Car.  Here it is in it's stock configuration including Tamiya silver can brushed 540 and ESC. I think Rally Cars represent the best option for a person wanting to get a scale touring car but also want something that doubles as a decent basher. The car is a ton of fun even with the stock motor but the stock differentials are garbage and required constant readjusting. So much so that I put off going brushless with this car for over a year until I had time to engineer my own solution. For the front end I went with a spool from Tamiya Racing Factory. This really upped the amount of oversteer in a very good way and all around made the car really nimble on tight corners. The real pain in the rear end was the rear differential and required replacing everything other than the main gear with parts from 3 Racing for the outdrives, MIP for the diff bolt and retaining locknut, and Acer for tungsten carbide bearings. Honestly I would have gone ceramic but Tower was out of stock. The resulting differential went together beautifully and instantly cleaned up all of the car's inherent traction problems. Next was installing a brushless system and slipper clutch to handle the power. I ended up using an old Castle Creations 4600kv motor I used to run in my SC10 before a friend accidently fitted a battery to it in reverse polarity and fried the ESC. Tower had the Sidewinder V2 ESC pretty cheap so I grabbed one knowing that that high pitched whine that comes from these green monsters would be a perfect fit for this car. The Tamiya slipper clutch is a must with these installs as without it you'll be tearing through gears in no time with this kind of power. Hopefully I'll find time to trim the wiring back a bit.  Another thing I had been meaning to do was upgrade to a longer threaded shock. I went with a 60mm set from 3 Racing that bought me as much ride height as I could get away with with the current 40mm MIP CVDs that are installed.   Later on down the road I plan to switch to 44mm CVDs and get a set of 70mm shocks with a low viscosity oil for offroad and use these 60mm shocks with a high viscosity oil and stiffer spring for drifting. And because so much had been altered internally with the car I felt some blingification was in order and went and got the Tamiya carbon fiber shock mounts, along with a 3 Racing anodized chassis brace (functional) and motor mount (formical). Another thing I had desperately been looking for was a DF03 buggy body to act as an overtray to protect my electrics. This turned out to be harder than you'd think but I managed to find a Keen Hawk body that worked just as well.  I haven't what or if I'm going to paint it yet but I do like how it looks just like this. It kind of makes the car look like an Ariel or a Caterham. Last was a new body and like a true AI dorkus I decided to model the car off of my BMW E30 with a M3 body from HPI complete with a home built LED harness. Its king of hard to tell with this camera but it has a matte black paint job that was achieved by using a flat polycarbonate clearcoat (Tamiya PS-55) over Parma Outlaw Black.     Once I got the motor timing and throttle exponential set this thing was a monster. I'm currently running the gears at 75/32 and may have to gear it up a little if I don't want to end up chewing up that new diff. This is one of those rare circumstances where a project really exceeded my expectations performance wise. I can't wait to take this thing out to the buggy track to see how it handles.
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Apr 17, 2011 08:31
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