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You're an rear end in a top hat who's blinding everyone else on the road with your poo poo rear end lights.
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Apr 12, 2011 15:29
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IOwnCalculus posted:You're an rear end in a top hat who's blinding everyone else on the road with your poo poo rear end lights. How can he have been here for over 4 years and not know it was a bad idea to post that?
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Apr 12, 2011 15:33
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EVERYWHERE 
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Actually the fogs have round reflector type things over the bulbs, so they're not obnoxiously bright. The pic just makes them appear that way. And the projector headlights have a cutoff, so they're not throwing light all up in your eyes. I had my brother drive the car toward me from down the block so I could see how it looked, and its not blinding at all. I figured I'd catch some flack. Whatever.
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Apr 12, 2011 21:23
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I added a heat shield I made for my cheap ebay intake, making it more secure and hopefully cooler air. 
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Apr 12, 2011 21:41
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djhaloeight posted:I installed Spyder halo/angel eye projector headlights in my 300M Special today, along with an aftermarket 8000k HID kit. The Special has an OEM HID setup already, with Valeo projectors, but all the aftermarket D1S bulbs are crap, and fail very soon. They also don't match my HID foglights well either. The highest color temp D1S bulb I can find from a quality manufacturer (sylvania, osram, etc) is 6000k, and they're like $250 a pop. The 8000k and up D1S ebay specials are $40 for a pair, which says something about quality. I've had better luck with my aftermarket foglight HID kit, which has lasted a long time and had no problems with. Isn't 8000k what one might call "hella fuckin' blue"? Why do you want it that blue? Isn't 5000k closer to "white light"? According to the color temperature references I can find, 8000k is pretty drat blue.
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Apr 13, 2011 04:52
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^ The bigger problem he has is retrofitting HID bulbs into non-HID housings. The new headlights will be effective to about 200 feet (if he's lucky.) Also, djhaloeight posted:all the aftermarket D1S bulbs are crap All retrofit HID bulbs are just regular HID bulbs with a different base installed.
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Apr 13, 2011 04:56
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Geoj posted:^ He called them "projector headlights" so I have some faith (since this is AI after all) that they do in fact have projector housings to go with them.
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Apr 13, 2011 05:03
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Same rules apply with non-HID projectors. The only major difference is you blind people ever so slightly less with projectors vs. reflectors.
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Apr 13, 2011 05:05
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Geoj posted:Same rules apply with non-HID projectors. The only major difference is you blind people ever so slightly less with projectors vs. reflectors. He said the car came with OEM HIDs he just changed to a different type (no idea how accurate that is)
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Apr 13, 2011 05:20
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Google search for "300M Spyder headlights" turns up a set of aftermarket H1 projectors.
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Apr 13, 2011 05:26
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drat I didn't mean to create a shitstorm..lol. Yeah the car came with HID D1S Sylvania headlights with Valeo projectors. I swapped to aftermarket halogen H1 sypders that have projectors, and installed an aftermarket HID kit. 8000k is pretty white. 10000k is where it gets more blue. I like the pure cold white look of the 8000k over stock 4300k bulbs. My fogs are normal H3 halogen setups that have an HID H3 kit in them, but they are pointed low and aren't up in peoples faces. I've had my bro drive the car toward me so I could make sure. I agree about the asshats in lifted F-150s with HID kits in halogen housings that blind the crap out of people in their rearview mirror. Its annoying.
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Apr 13, 2011 10:52
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djhaloeight posted:drat I didn't mean to create a shitstorm..lol. Yeah the car came with HID D1S Sylvania headlights with Valeo projectors. I swapped to aftermarket halogen H1 sypders that have projectors, and installed an aftermarket HID kit. 8000k is 'pure cold white'? Anything past 6000k is as blue as a smurf for me. Sure its going to look white if its super bright since your eyes will having trouble discerning color at that high of an intensity but the spill be definitely be blue. If you want to gauge the color, shine it on a white or grey wall thats really far away. Far enough away that the brightness doesn't 'hurt' your eyes.
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Apr 13, 2011 16:36
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djhaloeight posted:I agree about the asshats in At this point you're only fooling yourself. Also, daylight at noon on a cloudless day is ~4600K. Anything higher than that is trending blue. 8000K is deep blue trending to violet, however its a moot point because like I said, with HIDs in a halogen housing the effective range of the headlights is going to be about 200' if you're lucky. Meaning at highway speed (assume 65 MPH) you'll be covering the effective lit amount of road in front of you every 2 seconds. If you really want to improve your headlights buy a set of D2S projectors on e-bay and crack your stock housings open and replace the D1S projectors. Since you're dealing with factory HID headlights there will be plenty of room for the D2S projector and bulb igniter. Geoj fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Apr 13, 2011 |
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Apr 13, 2011 18:16
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You also have to remember that aftermarket HID and projector kits are often advertised as "HERP DERP DERP ONE MILLION K LIGHT!" when they're really like 5,000K. Years and years of this have skewed the idiot roadside modder's mind into thinking that 10,000K is "white" when in reality it would be FREAKING PURPLE. I run professional aquarium setups, and 5,000-7,000 is about the max stretch for it looking anything near "white." Above about 7,000K and you start getting the blues and violets that we would use to simulate mid-depth coral lighting, as a lot of the living critters would be "expecting" a violet-to-blue light. If your lights are really 8,000K, don't try to BS that they're "pure cold white." They're blue, there's a 99% chance you fit them improperly, and other drivers hate you. End of story.
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Apr 13, 2011 21:16
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Geirskogul posted:I run professional aquarium setups, and 5,000-7,000 is about the max stretch for it looking anything near "white." Indeed. Hell, daylight is only 6500k, and your typical halogen or household incandescent is only 2700k. An 8000k lamp would be loving purple.
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Apr 13, 2011 21:44
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Geoj posted:If you really want to improve your headlights buy a set of D2S projectors on e-bay and crack your stock housings open and replace the D1S projectors. Since you're dealing with factory HID headlights there will be plenty of room for the D2S projector and bulb igniter. Anything better about the D2S bulbs as compared to D1S? I know the D1S has the igniter attached to the bulb itself, and D2S has it integrated in the ballast, but is there any other advantage? The OEM projectors put out a pretty smooth output with my factory bulbs. Here's a pic of OEM: 
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Apr 13, 2011 22:43
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^ I don't think there's really any difference, however you stated that the reason for doing this is all of the D1S aftermarket bulbs are low quality and the OE bulbs are too expensive. e: As long as we're on the topic of HID headlights...  Finally RTV'd the first of my two Depo replacement HID headlights for my Focus back together. I disassembled them to replace the POS Chinese projectors with the Hella projectors out of the original headlights these are replacing. Other than projectors that have a beam pattern on par with a $60 retrofit the lights are nearly identical to the OE Ford units, so replacing the projectors is a simple bolt off/bolt on operation (after cracking them open.) Geoj fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Apr 14, 2011 |
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Apr 14, 2011 00:07
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I've never posted about my automotive exploits here, but I thought you guys might like this. I'm wrapping up a year-long project of putting a 13b into my miata. I ported and built the engine and ecu myself. I'm really stoked to have it running. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-oz35TbjX5A
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Apr 14, 2011 05:53
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Swapped over and fixed the front end of my P71 tonight. Went from looking like this: To this:  Replaced the header panel and grille, yanked the front license plate mount, and unbolted the cut-off brushguard mounts that had been left on it when I bought it. Massively stoked, between this and my glasspacks getting installed, this car is turning into something amazing 
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Apr 14, 2011 07:18
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Socracheese posted:I've never posted about my automotive exploits here, but I thought you guys might like this. I'm wrapping up a year-long project of putting a 13b into my miata. I ported and built the engine and ecu myself. I'm really stoked to have it running. Make a thread about this, please. Immediately.
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Apr 14, 2011 13:59
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Dropped the landcruiser off at the local 4wd place for them to do this to it! So they can bolt a snorkel onto it!  I wasnt game to cut a 90mm hole into my own car!
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Apr 15, 2011 03:33
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New Eagle GT's! (and a badly needed alignment) Ceramic Tint!  [hijack] Why did the brake job I did a year ago turn out so poorly? I'm getting a bunch of vibration out of the front right rotor pictured here:  So the back story is that I got this '07 civic si used and it came with 4 ECB rotors and pads which I installed. What caused this buildup of gunk? Not bedding the pads/rotors in (which I did not do), not changing the brake fluid/bleeding (which I did not do), the horrible alignment (which I fixed!)? More importantly what's the game plan to get me where I need to be? New rotors and pads all around, or can I get away with new rotors up front and 4 new sets of pads? Are my calipers junk/in need of some lube?
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Apr 15, 2011 21:40
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Ferremit posted:Dropped the landcruiser off at the local 4wd place for them to do this to it! it's not that bad, I just did mine on my tacoma a few weekends ago. had to use the dremel to open them up a bit as I didn't have the exact correct size hole saw. lamest part to do was probably the a pillar I thought. Stupid ARB gives you square plastic plugs to fit in a round hole WTF 
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Apr 15, 2011 21:49
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Ferremit posted:Dropped the landcruiser off at the local 4wd place for them to do this to it! At first, I thought you brought your landcruiser to the shop to have them poo poo all over it, then I saw the holes.
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Apr 15, 2011 22:16
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Neighbor lost 2 trees during the storm last night. Got to dig my car out from under some limbs. Thankfully the fence was propping them up somewhat, so there was no damage to my car except for some (more) scratches.
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Apr 16, 2011 05:10
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Got the snorkel fitted, And something else while i was at it...  I now have a motorhome! 
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Apr 16, 2011 10:45
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Ferremit posted:Got the snorkel fitted, And something else while i was at it... Gonna start calling you Hammond...
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Apr 17, 2011 11:54
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Made the kids wash it. I love forced labor.
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Apr 17, 2011 23:46
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Took the head off to replace it with a head I'm in the middle of rebuilding. After doing the chains there was still enormous amounts of top end noise from the lifters. So 4 years later:
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Apr 17, 2011 23:55
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Ferremit posted:Dropped the landcruiser off at the local 4wd place for them to do this to it! Forgive my ignorance, but what IS that brown gunk?
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Apr 18, 2011 00:05
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Spray on cutting compound apparently.
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Apr 18, 2011 00:53
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Lets see. I should start a "Chronicals of repair regarding a less-than-a-grand 20 year old SAAB" junkie. Only, you know, more catchy.  Saturday AM: Popped ECU to test if ECU is causing the parasitic 2A drain. Found this mess from the aftermarket stereo (that was installed in the ashtray area):  Groovy. Rewired/taped, fixed a couple of live ignition lines that were just hanging blind. Saturday Afternoon: Driver's side rear door will not lock/unlock - manual locking mechanism does not work; decided to attack that.  A $0.02 broken piece of plastic. Awesome. Replaced with a matching bolt, nut, and 3 washers. Not quite as easy to pop, but works 100% now. Setup a simple little passthrough on a cheap ohmmeter to see how bad the drain is. Dropped significantly. Seems to be maybe .25A now. Time to get rid of the ugly ASAs on the 9-5! Below has the circa-2000ish 7 spoke BBS alloys on the front w/ saab cap; rear is one of the hated ASAs. Yes, all of those dumb bolts are false.  Sunday AM: Accidentally kicked the wipers on the 9000 while reaching for ohmmeter. SCREEEET-SCREET. It fell apart right there; it was working yesterday. Oh, ok, there's another $6. At least it didn't damage anything - including the windshield. Replaced both with spare 21" cheapies. Tested. Nuts had backed off magically in the heat, so driver's side flopped to side and stayed there. Passenger side was weak. Aligned, and tightened. At least the drat washers worked without missing with them.  Ok, it's time to tackle the other rear door. Managed to get it all apart, except for one F-n support screw. Ended up stripping the poo poo out of a few oversized torx bits, then just yanked the living gently caress out of the rest of the already-disconnected door panel when I was unable to get the bolt to release even after drilling a hole straight through it. Got it stripped out well enough to replace. v vDiscovered that child lock mechanism was not attached; it was broken and blocking the entire locking mechanism. Cleaned and lubed up with lithium, and worked it like a $5 whore. Replaced misformed/snapped manual locking mechanism plastic with another bolt/washer combo. Brought door panel into house to expoxy broken mount. Sunday Afternoon: Cranked it, battery dropped to 10.4V initially, back to 11.8V idling - just like it did w/o any juice leaking. Groovy. Still have ECU disconnected; hoping that it was one of the live wires that was doing it, but if not, probably ECU keeping a fan running. Glorious. Voodoo incantations and blood offerings have not yet made the SRS warning go away; tried to jump pin 3 (LH 2.4 system) to ground to get any codes, but not getting dick or poo poo. Viggen fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Apr 18, 2011 |
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Apr 18, 2011 01:30
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replaced the plugs and wires because it bucked under max boost.. runs smoother at light load but didn't fix the issue. I didn't increase the advance since then... I ran a log file and discovered it was over-boost protection kicking in. The vac hose to the wastegate was roached!  Replaced with fuel hose, that ought to hold up better. Also made a sleeve out of header wrap and did better placement for where it's near the headers. next up, find out what part of my plumbing turned into a boost activated whistle.
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Apr 18, 2011 02:58
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rizzo1001 posted:New Eagle GT's! (and a badly needed alignment) You never properly bedded your pads. That's just pad deposit. No big deal. Go do (IN A SAFE AREA) 8 - 10 stops from 60mph to about 15 - 10mph
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Apr 18, 2011 03:14
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Recharged my A/C! Still not blowing as cool as I'd like. I've got two cans of Duracool R-12a coming. Going to evacuate and recharge with that this weekend.
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Apr 18, 2011 16:58
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timb posted:Recharged my A/C! Are there known A/C issues with mkv volkswagens? I've never felt that the A/C in our 2008 jetta was very cold and it seems to have gotten even worse.
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Apr 18, 2011 17:14
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lazer_chicken posted:Are there known A/C issues with mkv volkswagens? I've never felt that the A/C in our 2008 jetta was very cold and it seems to have gotten even worse. I think the MKVs just have lovely compressors? I know they had a problem with compressors blowing up with this generation. This really sucked, because when the compressor went, it fragged metal through the entire system, which means they had to replace the driers, switches, etc., and then flush the entire system. I read over at the Golf MKV forums that the newer, non-explodey compressors just aren't as efficient. Something else I've noticed; if you close all the vents except the passenger side one and driver side one, then put one hand over each vent, you should notice a dramatic temperature difference. I measured a 15f difference between the two sides. (Passenger side being colder.) I'd expect a little difference, but that just seems extreme. It's not just my car, I've noticed it in 3 different VWs as well. I wonder if the duct work going towards the driver's side runs right over the coolant tubing that goes to the heater core or something?
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Apr 18, 2011 18:33
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timb posted:Still not blowing as cool as I'd like. I've got two cans of Duracool R-12a coming. Going to evacuate and recharge with that this weekend. Your VW could run hotter than usual in a rare instance where the hydrocarbon refrigerant leaks suddenly, but you're probably aware of that. HC refrigerants are illegal in 19 states, mostly the redneck ones where people blew themsevles up with propane. Window tint and a parallel flow condenser (if equipped with tube & fin) would help with the temperatures. When the compressor shits itself the 'black death' is very difficult to completely remove from a condenser, which could be a bottleneck if the system isn't performing as well as before. I unfortunately went through that mess with my Benz. MATLAB 1988 fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Apr 18, 2011 |
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Apr 18, 2011 23:02
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MATLAB 1988 posted:Your VW could run hotter than usual in a rare instance where the hydrocarbon refrigerant leaks suddenly, but you're probably aware of that. HC refrigerants are illegal in 19 states, mostly the redneck ones where people blew themsevles up with propane. Window tint and a parallel flow condenser (if equipped with tube & fin) would help with the temperatures. Yea, I'm aware of the "dangers" of HCF refrigerants. After doing some research and probing my system with VAG-COM, I think Window Tint would help me a lot. The driver's side vent is registering at 78f, cabin temperature is registering as 90f, outside temperature is 82f, and the temperature behind the condenser is 40f. This is with the AC and fan set to max and recirculate on. The interior of the car is all black and I have literally no tint on any of the windows. I think it's just soaking up a lot of heat sitting outside all day. I still don't understand how the condenser can be 40f and the driver's side vent only be putting out 78f... HATE TROLL TIM fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Apr 19, 2011 |
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Apr 19, 2011 00:30
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| # ? May 10, 2024 12:49 |
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Thanks for the info, I wasn't aware of the compressor issues on early mkv models. Our jetta is black on black and we live in north carolina, so I guess that might be part of the problem. I'll try to get some temperature readings on ours, out of curiosity.
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Apr 19, 2011 03:42
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