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2ndclasscitizen posted:No idea about a slipper, but I'm guessing it woukd since he races it. You MUST, MUST, MUST get your body forward on the bike to weight the front end. If you don't get your body forward, the front will constantly push. You can get away with mostly ignoring forward or backward body positioning on streetbikes, but on a sumo you gotta get forward, up on the tank. You can also ride it knee down or foot down. I've always ridden knee down so that's how I run the quickest on the supermoto track, but it's important to remember that you still need to get way forward on the bike. You can also still blip your downshifts if you're comfortable with that, I've always been poo poo at blipping downshift so backing it in is just way more comfortable for me. Oh, and final thing: It seems counterintuitive, but if you're getting rear wheel hop, it's because you need to let the clutch out faster or add more rear brake, as the rear wheel isn't slowing enough to properly slide out of line. Getting harder on the front will help avoid wheel hop too.
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Apr 10, 2011 16:14
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http://sacramento.craigslist.org/mcy/2314050941.html 2006 drz400sm for 3000. Is this a decent deal? Assuming the mechanicals are okay. They didn't mention mileage as well.
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Apr 10, 2011 19:53
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lostleaf posted:http://sacramento.craigslist.org/mcy/2314050941.html Deleted listing, but it's a fair price if it works well and especially with any nice modifications like the 3x3 with rejet.
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Apr 11, 2011 02:16
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Double postin' to liven up the thread.  Edit: And one more. 
FuzzyWuzzyBear fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Apr 12, 2011 |
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Apr 12, 2011 01:41
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Made it through unscathed! This is the bike I was on:  KTM450EXC converted to a sumo racer running on slicks. Bike is waaaaaaaaaaay better than I am. Found myself braking and turning way too early just because I wasn't even approaching the bike's limits. Having my first ever ride on sumo be on a cold, greasy, very tight go-kart track probably wasn't my best idea ever but hey, I didn't crash it. Feels pretty good once you start sticking a boot out and get it sliding around (although I didn't have the guts to try and back it in). I've got some footage from my GoPro but it's night so it's quite poo poo. Definitely want to give it another go though. And this is the track. Not in that config though: the straight tyre barrier on the the left blocked off the two bits of road it runs parallel too, so you took the left it blocks off. 2ndclasscitizen fucked around with this message at 15:17 on Apr 12, 2011 |
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Apr 12, 2011 15:11
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Z3n posted:Uh, wow. Where's the beginner's guide to backing it in?
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Apr 12, 2011 21:24
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Synonamess Botch posted:Uh, wow. Where's the beginner's guide to backing it in? One thing I realized is that, since trying to understand and do all that while diving into a turn seems impossible and crazy (for me anyways) you can just try it while going straight and braking. Much less of a holy poo poo factor and a good way to get started.
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Apr 12, 2011 21:57
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Synonamess Botch posted:Uh, wow. Where's the beginner's guide to backing it in? Beginner's guide to backing it in: Get going in a straight line, get up to 5th gear, around 60mph, and then clutch in, get hard on the front brake, pound down to 2nd, and start letting the clutch out. If the back wheel hops, you need to let the clutch out more. If the back end waggles smoothly, then you're on the right track. After that, try the same thing, but rather than being upright, lean the bike over just a little bit, and let the rear end end slide out to the side. If you gently caress it up in a straight line, you get wheel hop. If you gently caress it up while leaned over a bit, the bike's gonna snap upright and push you wide, so practice this in a place with a lot of runoff, like a parking lot. Most of the time, you'll be backing it in midway through your braking zone, and everything will be back in line before turn in. Once you're really comfortable with the bike getting sideway on corner entrance, you can start backing it in after turn in, and you'll develop a feel for that when the time comes. If your bike doesn't have a lot of engine braking, and you're only getting wheel hop, then you can drag a little rear brake to slide out. Also, the harder you are on the front, the easier it is to back it in, so make sure you're REALLY hard on the front, the rear should be almost completely unweighted to assist it getting sideways. I think that covers the basics. The biggest thing that I struggled with was getting it to stop hopping and start sliding. My lightbulb moment was when I realized I could make it slide more by using the rear brake, and that allowed me to handle the wheel hop and really start getting comfortable hanging it out. A slipper clutch makes it super easy, bang your downshifts, drop the clutch, and add rear brake to taste. Edit: Gnaghi! 
Z3n fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Apr 12, 2011 |
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Apr 12, 2011 21:58
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By my 3rd session I wasn't even using the clutch to downshift, just stomping down on the lever.
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Apr 13, 2011 00:37
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Today I decided to read the sumo thread. What I learned from this is "backing it in" is pretty much the exact same process by which I do a J turn on my dirtbike, except I do that standing up.
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Apr 13, 2011 03:18
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Z3n posted:Edit: Gnaghi! Obviously a better explanation, but I just had to share that little epiphany I had (which I'm guessing most people already figured out).
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Apr 13, 2011 04:20
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On Mar 18, 2009:pr0zac posted:For posterity sakes, my bike: It apparently took me two years to figure out why Dizzy never idled right. I am a terrible motorcycle owner.
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Apr 13, 2011 05:12
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Re: Z3n, so the basic goal is breaking the wheel loose, and you accomplish it with heavy engine braking on an unweighted wheel?
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Apr 13, 2011 05:21
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The goal is a perfect apex everytime. Unweighting the rear wheel is the very basic level. You really need to feel it out. The trick is not thinking about it but knowing the feel of when the slide starts and bending that to your will. The basic recipie is a lit of brake. A lot of engine braking. A lot of turning. And keeping the rear wheel sliding instead of hopping.
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Apr 13, 2011 05:44
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Any suggestions for boots for Sumo ridding around town? So far I have read that MX boots are what I should be looking at.
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Apr 13, 2011 05:52
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Mx boot style. Tough ankles. Good toe protection. Street tread. Replacable sole if your baller.
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Apr 13, 2011 05:54
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VTNewb posted:Today I decided to read the sumo thread. What I learned from this is "backing it in" is pretty much the exact same process by which I do a J turn on my dirtbike, except I do that standing up. A lot more clutch work, less rear brake, higher grip, and much much higher speeds then yeah it's basically the same thing...  I had someone vaguely inquire about my 625smc and if I wanted to sell it... oh god. do not need 690 do not need 690
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Apr 13, 2011 06:27
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Gom Jabbar posted:Any suggestions for boots for Sumo ridding around town? So far I have read that MX boots are what I should be looking at. http://www.motostrano.com/alsubote7sm.html Soooooooooooo nice. Most expensive piece of gear I've ever bought, worth every penny.
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Apr 13, 2011 06:48
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The tech 7s are nice (I have them) but look like loving moon boots. The sidi crossfires aren't as bulbous and look a bit better, but are both more expensive and don't have a wrap around replaceable sole. The tech 7s cover most of the toe and inside of the heel up a few inches where as the sidis are just the sole.
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Apr 13, 2011 07:52
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Any opinions on the Gaerne Super Motard Boots?
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Apr 13, 2011 08:28
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Gom Jabbar posted:Any opinions on the Gaerne Super Motard Boots? On the topic of backing it in...is clutch needed on the downshifts or can you just kick it down 2-3 gears without using the clutch? I never really use the clutch on the CRF except starting and stopping. Want to figure out backing it in as well as wheelies/stoppies this summer.
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Apr 13, 2011 13:01
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NitroSpazzz posted:Not the supermoto boots but I've got a set of Gaerne MX boots and I love them. I have beat the poo poo out of them on rocks, trees, car doors and everything else and they are holding up just fine. Not sure what the main differences are between the SM and MX boots but I picked mine up lightly used for $25 and couldn't be happier. Seems like this would cause lockup issues since you're generally banging down a couple gears in motard racing. If it was just one gear it would work. Clutchless downshifting probably works better in dirt than asphalt.
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Apr 13, 2011 14:03
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Synonamess Botch posted:Re: Z3n, so the basic goal is breaking the wheel loose, and you accomplish it with heavy engine braking on an unweighted wheel? If you're just backing it in for fun, yes. I started backing it in because I can't blip downshifts while braking at the limit (ie, hanging the rear wheel off the ground on corner entrance while simultaneously blipping the throttle), and backing it in lets me downshift and equalize the rear wheel slide with my clutch hand while still being hard on the brakes. The other advantages are it allows you to get the motorcycle turned earlier so you can get on the gas earlier, and for racing, it makes the bike wider to prevent people from getting around you. NitroSpazzz posted:On the topic of backing it in...is clutch needed on the downshifts or can you just kick it down 2-3 gears without using the clutch? I never really use the clutch on the CRF except starting and stopping. Want to figure out backing it in as well as wheelies/stoppies this summer. You don't usually just kick it down a few gears unless you're going slow or have a slipper. You use the clutch because it allows you to control when you're sliding and when you're keeping the wheels in line.
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Apr 13, 2011 15:33
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I'm too used to the slipper on the 690 and now I'll accidentally 'chirp' the rear when I borrow other bikes. That said, dropping the clutch completely at speed still takes some extra balls that I don't often have. The full unbridled engine braking on the 690 is intense.
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Apr 13, 2011 16:51
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Z3n posted:You don't usually just kick it down a few gears unless you're going slow or have a slipper. You use the clutch because it allows you to control when you're sliding and when you're keeping the wheels in line.
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Apr 13, 2011 18:11
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I want more of a sumo. I feel my 2007 690 SM is too heavy and not enough acceleration. Could be the exhaust.... I just see videos of dudes tossing around their sumos like it's nothing and I just don't think you can manhandle my bike like that. What are my other options? Just the 2008+ SMC?
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Apr 13, 2011 23:00
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Christoff posted:I want more of a sumo. I feel my 2007 690 SM is too heavy and not enough acceleration. Could be the exhaust.... Come ride mine when I pick it up, and you can see how it is. It'd also be really nice if my wife could take a spin on yours because I think the 690 SM will fit her better.
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Apr 13, 2011 23:09
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Christoff posted:
Are you willing to do maintenance on a more race-oriented motard? Then you've got a lot of options for smaller, lighter tards that are more flickable but also require more care.
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Apr 13, 2011 23:11
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Z3n posted:Come ride mine when I pick it up, and you can see how it is. It'd also be really nice if my wife could take a spin on yours because I think the 690 SM will fit her better. You're getting a SMC? I may sell my bike if I can decide on what other sumo I want to go. FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:Are you willing to do maintenance on a more race-oriented motard? Then you've got a lot of options for smaller, lighter tards that are more flickable but also require more care. Yeah, it's known that the 2007 SM is a more street orientated "cruiser" sumo. And I use that lightly. I've only ever done minor maintenance on my old gsx-r. I mean I don't want a bike that needs a complete rebuild every 5k miles and oil change every 500 miles. As of now I do only ride my bike twice a month when I'm home. But I do an occasional 250 mile commute one way every once in a blue moon and am planning a west coast road trip in the distant future. I also want to be able to two-up (because chicks love bikes) and would miss a 6th gear. The SMC is just so expensive but is the faster (and bigger) of the tards out there.
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Apr 13, 2011 23:35
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Christoff posted:You're getting a SMC? I may sell my bike if I can decide on what other sumo I want to go. You might have seen this one around the forums...  Honestly, the SMC is as high power and awesome as you get without frequent rebuilds...just the way it is.
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Apr 13, 2011 23:42
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Yeah I'll just have to save for one. I can put down about $3k without selling my bike and I've been meaning to get a loan to build credit. So there. Going to try to sell my 2007 KTM 690 SM with 11-12k miles for about $5k. I think I paid $5,300? Now if I could just find one for less than loving $8 grand. Lowest I've seen is like 6-7?
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Apr 13, 2011 23:55
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*cough*/r/supermoto*cough*
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Apr 16, 2011 03:49
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Are you the one on there complaining about how no one posts? I posted something just for you.
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Apr 16, 2011 09:58
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This afternoon, I checked out the local Husqvarna dealer. Sat on a leftover 2010 SMR510 and it felt awfully good. Has anyone in here owned/ridden one? I'm starting to convince myself that it would be fun to check valves and change oil every other weekend.
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Apr 16, 2011 23:29
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MajesticTrout posted:This afternoon, I checked out the local Husqvarna dealer. Sat on a leftover 2010 SMR510 and it felt awfully good. Has anyone in here owned/ridden one? The 625 owners will call me a pussy for this, but there's no way I'd want to buy a street sumo that I expected to ride any distance that didn't have a counterbalancer. Besides that, if all you ever do on it is pleasure riding, then yes, it could be a good choice. But if you're not ripping with every mile you turn, it's gonna be the wrong bike for you.
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Apr 17, 2011 02:31
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MajesticTrout posted:This afternoon, I checked out the local Husqvarna dealer. Sat on a leftover 2010 SMR510 and it felt awfully good. Has anyone in here owned/ridden one? It's high maintenance, you don't want to cruise down the highway on one, but they are amazing to ride down a tight twisty road. Zool fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Apr 17, 2011 |
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Apr 17, 2011 02:38
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Z3n posted:The 625 owners will call me a pussy for this, but there's no way I'd want to buy a street sumo that I expected to ride any distance that didn't have a counterbalancer. This is nonsense designed to deter you from the finer joys of motorcycling - having an engine so obvious when running that you know the instant something is wrong. If there wasn't a loud racket or strong vibration coming from my LC4 engine I would be gravely concerned. Besides, your body begins to adapt the harmonic frequency outputted by the engine after a while and you continue that frequency while getting off the bike. This is simply a form of biological synergy - you begin to depend on being surrounded by the soothing chattering of a thumper beneath you to feel comfortable. Likewise, you can use your fingers going numb as a gauge of time. You don't need a clock when you know that it takes precisely 20 minutes for you to stop feeling your pinkie and an hour before your index finger bites the dust. They serve as decent odometers, as well. Seriously, though, I don't mind the vibrations, which Z3n already predicted I would say. I wouldn't want that maintenance schedule, though, when you still have other options that are just as satisfying and not as stressful to own.
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Apr 17, 2011 02:50
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Orange LC4 Vibrating violently My balls have gone numb
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Apr 17, 2011 09:03
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If you have another bike for commuting, trips and stuff then pick up the 510 as a toy for windy roads and track days. If the 510 would be your only bike and you plan on using it to commute...well hope you like wrenching.
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Apr 17, 2011 14:23
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NitroSpazzz posted:If you have another bike for commuting, trips and stuff then pick up the 510 as a toy for windy roads and track days. If the 510 would be your only bike and you plan on using it to commute...well hope you like wrenching. And spending big money when the engine goes. Maybe it won't be so bad when you have to replace a crank if you've been riding like an insane man for 6k, but if it's all (or even some) highway you are putting the bike to waste.
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Apr 17, 2011 19:42
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