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Scrubed posted:Put the 3.5 tough country lift on my Jeep and 3 days later I've encountered the dreaded death wobble. (98 TJ) http://kevinsoffroad.com/techarticles/deathwobble.html (has some good points/places to check) I don't think there should be any play. KORs steering stabilizer is supposed to be a good one. I've got dw in my TJ with OME 2.5,But I have JKs super giant JJ adj. trac bar (not that it matters w/ dw) I also don't run sway bar links right now I just know at 40-50 hold on the the steering wheel like hell. I'm ordering a OME ss though so I'll have all yellow underneath. 
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Apr 12, 2011 22:31
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It has a new steering stabilizer on it. I used an airgun to do the track bar bolts but I'll check them again when I get home.
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Apr 12, 2011 22:55
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Scrubed posted:It has a new steering stabilizer on it. Lots of people have the frame mounting hole for the track bar get worn in an oval shape. If this has happened to you, you will need to have the hole drilled out and repaired. Your steering stabilizer has nothing to do with death wobble, but just about every other joint on the front end does. Start with the tie-rod ends and drag link ends and work your way out from there looking for worn or loose joints.
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Apr 12, 2011 23:22
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I just replaced my front differential (d30) pinion seal. Everything went smooth except for re-seating the spline yolk. The problem im having is that it wont fully seat on the output shaft/spline. I use a piece of a 2x4 and a large mallet and beat the thing on as far as it can go. When looking at the yolk there's about 1/4 inch of extra still space available, but like i said it appears that thats as far as it goes unless im doing something wrong. Is that how its supposed to be?
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Apr 13, 2011 01:54
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EightBit posted:Lots of people have the frame mounting hole for the track bar get worn in an oval shape. If this has happened to you, you will need to have the hole drilled out and repaired. Ahahha. God drat t50 bolt had backed out. Unfortunately my axle perch for the control arm had been previously damaged and had managed to completely crack all the way through during a death wobble. Gave me the excuse to break out the welder and finally fix it for good.
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Apr 13, 2011 14:37
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Cablekid posted:Looks like I'm going to take a look at this today after work: Get onto the highway and go at least 70. Then put it on a lift and look for shiny spots in the undercarriage. Then do 70 again. If it doesn't wobble itself to scrap, it might be worth buying.
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Apr 13, 2011 16:51
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Also I finally solved my death wobble issue! I'd replaced every front-end steering and suspension component (granted with junkyard stuff) and brand new bushings all around. This did absolutely no good. Final solution? Moved to within walking distance of work.
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Apr 13, 2011 16:54
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Replaced my cone filter setup with this thing the other day.
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Apr 13, 2011 21:15
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Frag Viper posted:Replaced my cone filter setup with this thing the other day. Now your Cherokee can breathe long after you no longer can!
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Apr 13, 2011 21:19
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commissargribb posted:Now your Cherokee can breathe long after you no longer can! Now he needs a scuba tank for tire inflation and
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Apr 13, 2011 21:35
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Finally installed my sway bar disconnects. Ive been driving around without them since I put my lift on in December. I got the GOOD QUICKER JKS ones. Previously I had some cheap ones (rubicon express maybe). Dont gently caress around. The difference is night and day. The only thing better would be the $$$ antirock/switchblade style sway bar systems. While yes, gently caress a sway bar some may say, I got used to them disconnected, but I was always afraid of having to maneuver when some rear end in a top hat pulled out in front of me or some poo poo like that. Not that a jeep is a superb handling machine, but there is much less body roll with the sway bars connected.
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Apr 15, 2011 12:44
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I got some poo poo done this week, Seafoam'd my intake and cleaned my throttle body, and finally got around to replacing 55,000 miles worth of Bridgestone Dueler A/T. Anyone have any experience with the Firestone Destinations? I got them at a good price, would've preferred another set of Bridgestones but not at almost $160 a tire.
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Apr 15, 2011 14:15
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:
Hey - sometimes you get what you pay for.
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Apr 15, 2011 15:07
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Frag Viper posted:I just replaced my front differential (d30) pinion seal. Everything went smooth except for re-seating the spline yolk. I don't know about bashing the yolk on. I've never had to do anything other than press the yolk by hand and then tighten the pinion nut to gently "press" the yolk in the rest of the way. Try to rotate the yolk/input as you get close to seating the yolk. You'll have to have the wheels off the ground. The reason for this is to make sure that all of the pinion washers and outer bearing are properly seated. This is probably an unnecessary step but I'm really paranoid about working on gears. D30 uses washers not a crush sleeve.. The pinion depth and bearing preload is already set up. Once the yolk is bottomed out, you can just torque the nut down to 150 ft-lbs and it should be fine. Spec is 200, but you probably don't have a torque wrench that gets up there, and nobody seems to have any problems putting these at 150. Did a pinion seal on my D30 with this procedure, it's fine 30,000 miles later. I used to have no swaybars at all on my Bronco II. I could turn the steering wheel back and forth on the highway at rapid speed and the body would respond so slowly that it felt like the truck wasn't moving at all. I'm probably lucky that I never had any quick-handling situations in that thing. Man it flexed like hell with that stock suspension without any swaybars, though. I could hang with a lot of modded trucks simply because my tires stayed on the ground, and I somehow never popped a coil out. incredibull fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Apr 15, 2011 |
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Apr 15, 2011 20:57
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Probably should have used the f250: Or at least need to drop down a tire size, upgrade the ecu and tcm, use a decent trailer, etc. But at least I got it! Drove it straight to my bro's and let him work on it for a few days. Got it cranked-- it sounds like satan's birthday party. I mean that in the best way possible  Plenty more to do, as is seems every single part is worn out. 
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Apr 15, 2011 22:13
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cory ad portas posted:I got some poo poo done this week, Seafoam'd my intake and cleaned my throttle body, and finally got around to replacing 55,000 miles worth of Bridgestone Dueler A/T.
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Apr 15, 2011 23:22
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 It's "yoke"
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Apr 15, 2011 23:46
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RexSS345 posted:I've got about 5k miles on a set of Destination A/T's and I love 'em. Great traction in the wet, awesome in snow, and pretty quiet on the highway. Definitely worth the $120/tire. Have you tried them in mud/sand at all? So far I like them, and I went up a size so they fill out my lift, but I've only had them for a few hours. Took em through some trails behind my house and they seem like they've got pretty decent bite.
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Apr 16, 2011 01:14
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incredibull posted:I don't know about bashing the yolk on. I've never had to do anything other than press the yolk by hand and then tighten the pinion nut to gently "press" the yolk in the rest of the way. Yeah I got it all taken care of finally. Apparently the output shaft is slightly tapered, so the yoke bottoming out was intended. Thank god for airtools.
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Apr 16, 2011 21:28
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Jeep: If something isn't broke then you are doing it wrong. Looks like my 99 Cherokee has developed a windshield leak. Originally I thought it was the cowl drain. I haven't been able to figure out exactly where it comes in at, but it leaves puddles on whichever side is sitting slower. I seen it running down the bottom corner of the windshield on the driver side yesterday, but that side was parked lower. When I am parked flat it seems to mostly only soak the passenger side. Is it easy and worth it to try and seal this myself? What is a good product for that? Would it be better to just take it to a shop and have them reseal it? EDIT: Something like Permatex® Flowable Silicone Windshield and Glass Sealer? I'm worried it is going to make a terrible mess and be a pain if I ever have to replace the windshield. owls or something fucked around with this message at 14:30 on Apr 17, 2011 |
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Apr 17, 2011 14:14
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ornery owl posted:Jeep: If something isn't broke then you are doing it wrong. Marine Goop would be what I reached for...
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Apr 17, 2011 16:29
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ornery owl posted:Jeep: If something isn't broke then you are doing it wrong. I got this stuff from NAPA called "windshield weld" or something. I did the work myself and it took about 20 minutes. My suggestion would be to try to pull the inside gasket and reseal it. I did mine and it was fairly easy.
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Apr 17, 2011 19:14
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I was working on my Jeep (2006 TJ) over the weekend, removed the rear drive shaft to fix a squeak, so I was driving on the front axle while getting parts, etc. I noticed when I went around tight corners under power, the front axle likes to hop. And if coasting while turning, I can hear the axle shafts bounce or something, like they're binding and releasing. It's an open differential, so the two tires should spin independently, right? After replacing the rear drive shaft, I tested it again, and it doesn't happen in 2wd, but does in 4wd. Any ideas?
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Apr 18, 2011 13:29
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The transfer case is only part-time and the axle shafts aren't being allowed to slip properly on the travel surface. By design it's great for sand, ice, mud, snow, etc. but there's way too much traction on pavement and this causes binding and stress in the front end components (not good). Sure, the shafts still spin somewhat independently even though they're in an open carrier but not enough to offset full vehicle weight on non-articulated dry pavement with the engine weight over them. It doesn't happen with 2WD because the rear end isn't a steerable axle, resulting in a lot less components and stress for the differential to deal with. It just transfers power and rotation left and right between the two sides as needed. In the front end, it's constantly trying to give both sides as much traction as possible from the drivetrain which is the last thing you need in ideal conditions. It would do the same in the rear if you tried 4H without a front shaft, although to a lesser degree since the wheels can't steer. 4H FWD-only can be used in a pinch on dry surfaces if something in the rear end gives out, but I wouldn't use it for very long or be taking corners like The Stig unless you're on a trail or dirt road.
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Apr 18, 2011 14:29
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Philip J Fry posted:The transfer case is only part-time and the axle shafts aren't being allowed to slip properly on the travel surface. By design it's great for sand, ice, mud, snow, etc. but there's way too much traction on pavement and this causes binding and stress in the front end components (not good). Sure, the shafts still spin somewhat independently even though they're in an open carrier but not enough to offset full vehicle weight on non-articulated dry pavement with the engine weight over them. I don't think this is entirely correct. It doesn't have anything to do with the transfer case if the rear driveshaft is disconnected. The binding/releasing you're feeling is primarily due to the u-joints in the front axle, which don't rotate (when the wheels are turned) as smoothly as a CV joint in you typical front-wheel drive car. The u-joints oscillate, and you can often feel this and occasionally hear it as well. Yours might be worse than normal, so you might want to give them a once-over and perhaps grease them if they're serviceable.
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Apr 18, 2011 18:09
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What's the best service manual for a Jeep WJ (1999 if it matters)? Would Chilton' be detailed enough? I need to drop the gas tank to figure out where it's leaking from.
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Apr 18, 2011 19:02
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Ordered these, made from 1/4 steel. Same foot print as the rubicon rockers. BTW I'll be selling my rubicon rockers if anyone may be interested.
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Apr 20, 2011 21:16
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InitialDave posted:
I was hungry
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Apr 21, 2011 16:54
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cory ad portas posted:Have you tried them in mud/sand at all? So far I like them, and I went up a size so they fill out my lift, but I've only had them for a few hours. Took em through some trails behind my house and they seem like they've got pretty decent bite.
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Apr 21, 2011 17:14
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I'm very close to buying a 1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer. I've always wanted one and am finially getting off my rear end and looking for a decent one. What do you all thing of these? What are the pros and cons?
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Apr 22, 2011 20:23
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Grand Wagoneers are awesome. Pros: They are awesome Cons: ... 1990 is going to have D44s front and rear, 360 V8 with 2 barrel carb, TF727 trans, and NP229 transfer case. It's a pretty solid drivetrain. NP229 has a viscous coupling all wheel drive setting, and I think that will explode if engaged after long periods of non-use. As years went on, Jeep heaped on more and more vacuum poo poo, so 90 will have a rat's nest probably. Make sure oil pressure is good, the oil pumps in AMC motors are problematic. There is no serpentine belt and no tensioner, you have to do all that manually. If you don't mind carbs, no overdrive, and a full size SUV, go for it. Check for rust everywhere.
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Apr 23, 2011 02:44
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Grand Wagoneers are awesome. Yes they are awesome! Thanks for the help. I've checked all over for rust and there is hardly any. So are you saying that with the NP229 trasnfer case that if the 4 wheel drive hasen't been used in a long time it could explode?? I'm not sure if it has or not i'll have to ask the seller. If it hasen't been engaged in quite sometime is there anything i can do to prevent damage to the tranfer case while in 4 wheel drive??
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Apr 23, 2011 04:09
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I do not know for sure, but I do not think so. You can replace the viscous coupling, but parts are rare and expensive. I never found a guide to rebuild one, but I've honestly never looked hard. The good part is that 2WD Hi and 4WD Lo will work fine. The viscous coupling is only used in 4WD Hi, and actually acts as AWD that you can drive on pavement. One thing to do is lock the viscous coupling together to get 4WD Hi and lose AWD capability. That makes it like most every other truck out there, 4WD Hi is offroad only. Not a bad compromise if you don't care about AWD.
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Apr 23, 2011 14:24
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I've heard you can get an infection from careless viscous coupling.
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Apr 23, 2011 15:29
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Or just swap in an NP228, if you can live without full-time 4WD.
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Apr 23, 2011 20:57
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I am a HUGE F'N MORON. My battery was dead this morning, and because of stupid reasons that I don't want to get into, I accidentally reversed the battery cables when jumping my 2001 XJ. So now the engine will turn over and catch, but dies right away. If I start it and floor the gas pedal I can keep it running for a second or two before it dies again. I checked all the fuses that I could find and they look good, but the Haynes manual that I have apparently has nothing in it about the location of the car's computer and I didn't have time to go tearing everything apart to check it. (I have since located it on the driver side of the engine bay next to the air box.) I have to assume the ECU or crank position sensor, or both are blown. Or something in the ignition. Of course it is a 2001, so it has the crazy complex and somewhat rare coil on plug style ignition so I can't just grab parts from junkyards since all they have around me are 80's to mid 90's XJs. (I know, I was at all of them last weekend.) I tried searching through various Jeep forums and the internet in general and the replies I am finding to this problem are barely legible as english. So on a super long shot, does anyone have an idea of what might be fried, or has anyone heard of someone doing something as stupid as this and figuring out what is broken? My biggest problem is I have zero time over the next two weeks to fix this myself, and I need a car since I live 25 miles from work. Therefore, I am getting a rental until this gets fixed, which means I'm going to have to take it to a shop and pay out the rear end to fix something that normally I'd be able to tackle myself. Anyway, if anyone has any ideas, I'd appreciate hearing them. BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Apr 26, 2011 |
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Apr 26, 2011 22:23
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BoostCreep posted:I am a HUGE F'N MORON. My battery was dead this morning, and because of stupid reasons that I don't want to get into, I accidentally reversed the battery cables when jumping my 2001 XJ. So now the engine will turn over and catch, but dies right away. If I start it and floor the gas pedal I can keep it running for a second or two before it dies again. I checked all the fuses that I could find and they look good, but the Haynes manual that I have apparently has nothing in it about the location of the car's computer and I didn't have time to go tearing everything apart to check it. (I have since located it on the driver side of the engine bay next to the air box.) I have to assume the ECU or crank position sensor, or both are blown. Or something in the ignition. Try a new battery? When mine was shot I had the same problem where I could get it to start but it would only stay running if I kept on the gas. Once I got a new battery it was fine. I know it sounds silly because generally you think "it starts so the battery must be fine". My understanding is it is common on Jeeps when the battery is worn. owls or something fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Apr 27, 2011 |
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Apr 27, 2011 03:21
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Ugh, got a check engine light today that keeps coming right back after resetting it. The code I pulled from it was P0715 which is something called a "Input/Turbine Shaft Speed Sensor". I maybe sort of know where it is located and what it is/does but I can't seem to find that part on either Advance Auto's or Auto Zone's website. Would it be called something else? Is it the same thing as a "Transmission Speed Sensor"? I found those on Auto Zone, but it doesn't specify if it is for the input or output end. Are they the same part for both ends if this is even the right part?
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Apr 28, 2011 05:00
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I found this leading from the positive battery cable to the main fuse box in the engine bay. Could this be a fusible link? I've spent about two hours going through my XJ looking for blown fuses, relays, and other stuff and everything looks in perfect shape. Does anyone know if later XJs have fusible links? I would have pulled it apart but I was already late for work and I think that orange tab is holding the two sides of the clip together like super glue. Definitely not meant to be taken apart easily.
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Apr 28, 2011 21:34
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That's simply a plug. The red piece of plastic there is a locking pin, you need to remove it or at least pull it part way out before the two will separate. Most cars have a "main fuse" these days that blows when you reverse the terminals, you said you checked them, but are you sure you checked every fuse? In the last jeep I worked on had like four fuse panels scattered around the front half of the car, once I got the owners manual out to find the one I wanted, turns out it was buried under the passenger side kick panel. It has to have some sort of (blown?) fuse that protects the electronic components, I find it very difficult to believe that they'd put anything important on an un-fused circuit.
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Apr 29, 2011 07:28
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