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JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja

Pweller posted:

Am I correct in assuming that it's extremely common for jewelers today to use CAD templates and farm out construction to companies

You need to be wary of construction qualities. CAD is just a tool, and the final piece revolves around execution. It's helpful to ask for examples of work that any jeweler has already done. If you're not blown away by their work then find someone else.

Quantumfate posted:

So I have an odd question: What happened to jet? You used to see a bunch of jet jewelry, but now you really don't. It's not like black gems aren't in demand either, they have more expensive black diamonds etc.

Jet passed into memory with the changing of styles. From the 1600's to the early 1900's it was common to wear a piece of jewelry in the remembrance of a loved one who had passed away. Queen Victoria re-energized the popularity of mourning jewelry in the USA/England after the death of Prince Albert. Jet from Whitby England was a comfortable carving medium, and it was one of the few truly black materials suitable for wearing.

These days we simply have more durable materials, and true black can be artificially created through irradiation, dye, and impregnation. Most black diamonds are created through this process.

Prince Albert actually designed several of Victoria's better pieces of jewelry. It is only fitting that in death he would have had a lasting impression on the history of jewelry.

Kalista posted:

Unless you happen to find someone like Johnny (which is rare without a personal connection)

I do 99% of my business via email. ;-)

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JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja
Missed a couple...

Pweller posted:

Also, she is really into dark brown and black stones and I think I can come up with something really sharp and classy down that road.

black & carbonado diamonds...

It sounds like you're going to need a ring custom designed. It isn't a big deal, but would probably be much better than trying to customize an existing one. Carbonado diamonds are just a solid black diamond without polish or clarity.

The trouble with black as a color is that by the time the color is deep enough to be black there isn't any brilliance left. I think that the best thing you could find wold be a fancy colored grey or brown/cognac/chocolate diamond.

Seyelence posted:

Anyone have pictures of 1ct enhanced moissanite with an unenhanced? (from moissaniteco)

My professional opinion is to save your money. The regular Moissanite is probably going to be A-OK. And if it isn't: Return it!

Queen Of Spades posted:

If you wanted to go about making jewelry as a hobby, how in the hell would you learn? Nothing really with stones, but Id be interested in learning how to do...metalwork? I dont know what its called. I guess what my goal would be is being able to make things like necklace pendants, rings, and bracelets out of metal.

Jewelry school. Lots of great options, but the one I've always heard great things about is the Revere Academy in San Francisco. Some local goldsmiths will take apprentices for a fee, but that situation has a lot of potential pitfalls.

Square Pair
Mar 16, 2011

Great OP and comments. Any advice/comments on buying solitaire diamonds in the Bahamas?

We are going on a cruise again this year, 3 years ago we bought a diamond and setting at Diamonds International in Nassau. Picked the diamond out and the band and the on-site jeweler set the stone. He did a lovely job so our local jeweler had to fix it (one of the prongs holding the stone was cracked) in addition the crown? wasn't the right type for the emerald cut diamond. This was found as we had it appraised when we got back home - the appraised value was $1,400 more than we paid.

Is this typical? The Diamond International clerk said that they deal directly with Belgium hence the lower costs - but I took it as a sales pitch. Especially since all the wives had their little diamond "quality" chart handed out by the cruise lines as they were shopping.

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja
My advice? Don't.

Your local jeweler most likely inflated the appraisal price to make you feel good about your purchase. If you want to see a real value ask your jeweler if he'll buy it from you. Jewelers hate working on cruise ship goods - The local guys want to make those sales, too.

There are some legitimate stores in the Bahamas, but the tourist trade there is notoriously fraudulent. I would only shop in the higher end stores, buy certified diamonds, and pay with a credit card for the added protection. Send me a PM with the cities you'll be visiting and I can put you in touch with a proper jeweler that the locals use.

Diamonds International seems to be a typical cruise line jeweler. http://www.complaintsboard.com/bycompany/diamonds-international-a3335.html

Square Pair
Mar 16, 2011

JohnnyRnR posted:

My advice? Don't.

drat! Thanks for that link. Makes me want to take her ring to another appraiser now. We'll be going to Nassau and Freeport this trip if you/anyone has recommendations for a reputable place to buy a loose stone.

GrAviTy84
Nov 25, 2004

This thread needs more pictures. Here are few. I proposed last Friday to my girlfriend of 5 yrs and she said yes, :woop:









The designer is Varna (http://www.varna.com). Platinum with hand engraved filigree and 18k gold accents, 1.25ct Moissanite center. We first discovered them when we were in college in Santa Cruz. There was a local jewelry store/art gallery called The Vault, and my fiancee just fell in love with the rings. I knew I had to get her one, so I found a store close(ish) to where we live that carries them and ordered a design I liked, with moissanite for various reasons. The assurance that it is not a conflict diamond was a big one, another one was that we absolutely love the designer, but the price of the setting with a real diamond of good quality would be well above my means. Going moissanite with this setting allowed us to afford the exact ring design we wanted without having to settle for a simpler design, or worse, a Tacori :P

Right now I'm thinking of something like this for the band:

GrAviTy84 fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Apr 19, 2011

BOOMAN
Dec 4, 2007

Now I am leaving for no rason
What maintenance would you reccomend for a platinum ring? Thanks for your help will post a picture soon.

Brennanite
Feb 14, 2009
I have an old ring (late Victorian/Edwardian) that I inherited. It's nothing fancy and I've been thinking about separating the stone and the setting. The stone is a star ruby and I'd like to have it put in a thicker, less delicate setting suitable for everyday wear. I'd then place a garnet or maybe topaz in the original setting. Is this going to be really difficult or expensive? Am I ruining an irreplacable piece of history?

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja
Wipe with a damp soft cloth. It may need to be rhodium plated once a year or so to maintain the high polish (shiny) finish.

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja

Brennanite posted:

I have an old ring (late Victorian/Edwardian) that I inherited. It's nothing fancy and I've been thinking about separating the stone and the setting. The stone is a star ruby and I'd like to have it put in a thicker, less delicate setting suitable for everyday wear. I'd then place a garnet or maybe topaz in the original setting. Is this going to be really difficult or expensive? Am I ruining an irreplacable piece of history?

Nope, not at all. These kind of jobs are very common.

A lot of times we'll buy a piece solely for the stones so we can recut them. Then we put different gems in the old ring and it's a winner all the way around.

The only thing I would be very cautious about changing are old pieces signed by a designer. Oftentimes those pieces are worth significantly more than their components.

zantar
Jul 30, 2002
Are titanium & stainless steel rings unsafe?

I've seen some horror stories online about people losing their fingers due to swelling in accidents and not being able to cut the bands due to hardness... FACT OR FICTION??!!!

WAFFLEHOUND
Apr 26, 2007
Hey Johnny, are you still around? I got your initial E-mail...

Square Pair
Mar 16, 2011

GrAviTy84 posted:

This thread needs more pictures. Here are few. I proposed last Friday to my girlfriend of 5 yrs and she said yes, :woop:
That ring looks really good - I like the detail the jeweler put into the band. Well done.

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja

zantar posted:

Are titanium & stainless steel rings unsafe?

I've seen some horror stories online about people losing their fingers due to swelling in accidents and not being able to cut the bands due to hardness... FACT OR FICTION??!!!

It's a fact that there have been problems. What answer you get depends on who you ask, but I only wear precious metals. The problem isn't hardness... it's that some hospitals don't have the proper saw to cut a Ti/SS ring off without generating excessive heat. The original problems were that the hospitals would cut the ring off, but the heat generated would cauterize the digit internally. :(

Many companies say "That isn't a problem anymore" but I have no first hand experience of one coming off easily, and a dozen stories of hospitals having difficulty removing them.

WAFFLEHOUND posted:

Hey Johnny, are you still around? I got your initial E-mail...

Still around; just swamped. I'll try to email you back sometime today.

INTJ Mastermind
Dec 30, 2004

It's a radial!
Get a tungstun carbide ring! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yuqgI0g-Tc4&feature=related

WAFFLEHOUND
Apr 26, 2007

JohnnyRnR posted:

It's a fact that there have been problems. What answer you get depends on who you ask, but I only wear precious metals. The problem isn't hardness... it's that some hospitals don't have the proper saw to cut a Ti/SS ring off without generating excessive heat. The original problems were that the hospitals would cut the ring off, but the heat generated would cauterize the digit internally. :(

Many companies say "That isn't a problem anymore" but I have no first hand experience of one coming off easily, and a dozen stories of hospitals having difficulty removing them.

As long as you're still able to speak you can just tell the hospital to ask the janitor for a wrench and slowly clamp the metal. The non-precious metals used tend to be brittle, so it'll just snap off as more pressure is applied.

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja
I don't think that's right. You can do that with the Tungsten Carbide rings because most manufacturers are putting stress points in them specifically so you can crack them. But I don't think it applies to stainless or titanium.

WAFFLEHOUND
Apr 26, 2007

JohnnyRnR posted:

I don't think that's right. You can do that with the Tungsten Carbide rings because most manufacturers are putting stress points in them specifically so you can crack them. But I don't think it applies to stainless or titanium.

Possible. I mean I just wouldn't do it anyways because I spend a lot of time around heavy things that fall randomly, but for your average Joe there isn't the biggest risk as long as they think to take the ring off before doing any heavy lifting. As long as you're doing that then most things that would gently caress up your ring would do the same to your hand, I'd imagine.

Honestly I think there are a lot of fun less-used metals that are still soft enough to be used for jewelry while being a bit different.

Brennanite
Feb 14, 2009

JohnnyRnR posted:

Nope, not at all. These kind of jobs are very common.

A lot of times we'll buy a piece solely for the stones so we can recut them. Then we put different gems in the old ring and it's a winner all the way around.

The only thing I would be very cautious about changing are old pieces signed by a designer. Oftentimes those pieces are worth significantly more than their components.

Nope, just a worn 18 karat mark. Glad to know my plan is solid. It just seems better than letting it sit unworn in a drawer for the next few decades.

Queen Of Spades
Jul 5, 2004

by Y Kant Ozma Post

JohnnyRnR posted:

Jewelry school. Lots of great options, but the one I've always heard great things about is the Revere Academy in San Francisco. Some local goldsmiths will take apprentices for a fee, but that situation has a lot of potential pitfalls.

drat, so nothing really for someone just wanting to be a hobbyist? I live in Winnipeg, so not a lot of jewelry schools from what I can see. I mostly just wanted to make big gently caress-off necklaces or bracelets; no precious stones or anything. drat :(

Guess I can try to find another hobby to try!

Big Mac
Jan 3, 2007


I'm getting married soon, and we're starting to look for bands. I've long wanted a meteorite band, if for no other reason than :science:, but I was wondering if this would be a feasible thing for daily wear. All of the meteorite jewelery that I've seen has a high iron content, so I'm worried about that. Also, though, would I be able to get something like this at a local shop? I'm okay with a bit of a wait, but I still don't want to buy one sight-unseen.

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja

Queen Of Spades posted:

I mostly just wanted to make big gently caress-off necklaces or bracelets; no precious stones or anything. drat :(

Ah, if you're wanting to make non-precious jewelry then I would check some of the hobbyist forums. Places like firemountaingems.com will sell all the bits and bobs you'll need to get started, and they have a small selection of books and videos that can get you started.

Just FYI, if you're buying precious materials from a place like that they're typically going to be pumped full of dye or polymer to make them look more expensive.

Brennanite posted:

Nope, just a worn 18 karat mark. Glad to know my plan is solid. It just seems better than letting it sit unworn in a drawer for the next few decades.

Better a ring on the hand than a gold bar in a vault.

Big Mac posted:

meteorite band

It's an excellent material. We don't like to sell the bands that are 100% meteorite, and always go with styles that have a white gold or platinum liner. Easier to size, less danger of rust, and they look much better (IMO).

Your local jeweler should be able to make a couple calls and source the materials you'll need.

JohnnyRnR fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Apr 23, 2011

GrAviTy84
Nov 25, 2004

Apologies if this has been answered before. How durable is meteorite?

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja

JohnnyRnR posted:

It's an excellent material. We don't like to sell the bands that are 100% meteorite, and always go with styles that have a white gold or platinum liner. Easier to size, less danger of rust, and they look much better (IMO).

GrAviTy84
Nov 25, 2004

well I mean, is there a sense of scale to how excellent? How hard is it? In 2 years should I expect any more to be left on the ring? Does it crack? Chip easily?

Dr. Fraiser Chain
May 18, 2004

Redlining my shit posting machine


If its a meteorite then its an iron band. Imagine wearing an iron band.

close to toast
Dec 12, 2006

My boyfriend just proposed with a beautiful platinum/diamond ring!! (pic here)

Now it's time to start thinking about our bands. He is very much attached to a yellow gold ring for himself, which I am not opposed to, but wonder if it will match stylistically or practically (wear and tear) with my platinum engagement ring. Any input on how to go about resolving this? Do people sometimes get rings that match in style but are different metals? Ideally I would like our rings to be the same but I'm open to suggestions.

I also have quite a bit of 24ct gold that my dad bought in the UAE that we could use- the jeweler who custom made the engagement ring told my fiancé that with gold of that purity, they can do all the work in house.

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja
That is a lovely ring. I especially like the petite band - That can be hard to do well.

With high karat gold don't think of it as a material - Think of it as money. You'll be better off selling the gold and using the money to buy your rings. It makes for a much easier to follow transaction.

I caution against mixing metals between the engagement & wedding rings. Platinum & gold do strange things when they rub against each other and both rings will be damaged.

GrAviTy84
Nov 25, 2004

Goodpancakes posted:

If its a meteorite then its an iron band. Imagine wearing an iron band.

I was reading that certain meteorites will be more rust prone than others and some people have to oil or coat their rings with wax every so often. Did these people just get cheap examples? Is the "good stuff" less resistant to weathering or is rust just a thing you have to deal with?

Big Mac
Jan 3, 2007


JohnnyRnR posted:

Your local jeweler should be able to make a couple calls and source the materials you'll need.

Awesome! I know the that it would vary everywhere, but what kind of turnaround time would I look at for something like this?

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja
That's hard to tell. On a fine piece with exotic materials we typically ask for four weeks notice, minimum.

WT Wally
Feb 19, 2004

I recently inherited my grandfathers Seiko Bellmatic watch. Obviously its not a very rare or expensive watch, but it has sentimental value so I'd like to have it refurbished (right now the crystal is impossible to see through). It seems to run ok, and the bell works, but the date is stuck. How do I go about finding a jeweler for a repair like this? I'm in Washington D.C. if anyone knows of a good shop.

Arnold of Soissons
Mar 4, 2011

by XyloJW
This thread is fantastic. Thanks for all the answers from all the jewelers!

I'm really partial to amethyst: what are some really cool amethyst I can get at various price points? Do you have any links/resources that would be useful to me, the random person?

denzelcurrypower
Jan 28, 2011
Anyone have experience or opinions on Ben Moss jewelery? I'm looking to get earrings for my girlfriend with some kind of blue gemstone, my budget is about $100. Here's a link to something I'm considering, if anyone could post some advice that would be great. I don't really know what I'm doing when it comes to purchasing jewelery. http://www.benmoss.com/home/product/tabid/64/language/en-us/p-25548-aquamarine-and-diamonds-sterling-silver.aspx?catid=1507

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja

WT Wally posted:

I recently inherited my grandfathers Seiko Bellmatic watch. Obviously its not a very rare or expensive watch, but it has sentimental value so I'd like to have it refurbished (right now the crystal is impossible to see through). It seems to run ok, and the bell works, but the date is stuck. How do I go about finding a jeweler for a repair like this? I'm in Washington D.C. if anyone knows of a good shop.

I was traveling and not able to check on this for you until now. I've put a call in to my watch nerds and they should get back to me in a couple days.

Arnold of Soissons posted:

I'm really partial to amethyst: what are some really cool amethyst I can get at various price points? Do you have any links/resources that would be useful to me, the random person?

My advice would be to concentrate on the varietals.

Arizona Amethyst - A strange "purple kool-aid" kind of color. A touch smoky internally, but with a coloration that's very unique. It isn't very expensive, but is absolutely beautiful. I bought a fantastic collection of this years ago and we have been slowly using it up in custom pieces. I'll see if I can find some pictures.

Siberian Amethyst - Found in many places. This is the top grade of Amethyst, and fairly rare. Vivid violet color, and the stones have a beautiful internal flashing of red and multitoned purple as they reflect light. This will be at the top of the cost spectrum.

Other than those two there are all kinds of other qualities in all shades of purple. Seems like it is mined in Africa and South America by the truckload.

Pig Boots
Apr 10, 2009

literally me
I inherited my great-grandmother's engagement ring (old european cut diamond, edwardian style, hexagonal setting, filigree, hand engraved all over, 18K white gold) and I hope to use it as my engagement ring. It is currently a size 7, but it needs to go up to like a 10 (born with a medical condition that causes swelling in all my limbs...even at a size 10, there will likely be days when it doesn't fit). They seem to think that they can do it, but I don't think they're making any promises on being able to match the engraving (a wheat sort of design). Are these sorts of changes going to mess the ring up terribly? Am I making a huge mistake? Is the engraving really that big of a bitch?

The ring is currently at the jeweler's, but nothing is being done to it yet because they're waiting for the owner to come back home from San Francisco so he can check it out and give an estimate. Really hoping it's not going to be *too* expensive.


I know it's probably hard to tell without seeing the ring...I'm just curious if the scenario sets off any red flags.

marshmallard
Apr 15, 2005

This post is about me.
Johnny, would you be able to make a custom ring for someone in another country, or is it just too awkward if you can't see gems etc in person? Whereabouts are you based?

I'm in England, just don't fancy my chances of finding a jeweller like you over here.

JohnnyRnR
May 16, 2004
Beer Ninja

Pig Boots posted:

I don't think they're making any promises on being able to match the engraving (a wheat sort of design). Am I making a huge mistake? Is the engraving really that big of a bitch?

It sounds like they're just being honest with you. When you enlarge an engraved ring you'll have a new piece of metal inserted that doesn't have any engraving in it. So they'll have to have an engraver match the old pattern by hand. Normally to make everything match the engraver will just re-engrave the entire ring with the same pattern. It's good that they warned you just in case, but I don't think you're in danger of ruining the ring.

marshmallard posted:

I'm in England, just don't fancy my chances of finding a jeweller like you over here.

Thank you. We do quite a bit of work for overseas clients. I'll send a PM and we can chat.

Monkey Lincoln
Dec 1, 2001
gumshoe

Welp, thought this had fallen off the map, turns out I unbookmarked it somehow. Super thanks to Johnny and everyone for keeping it going I guess? I'll try to keep up with this again.

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Dr. Fraiser Chain
May 18, 2004

Redlining my shit posting machine


GrAviTy84 posted:

I was reading that certain meteorites will be more rust prone than others and some people have to oil or coat their rings with wax every so often. Did these people just get cheap examples? Is the "good stuff" less resistant to weathering or is rust just a thing you have to deal with?

I'm not sure how you would quantify the good or bad stuff, as either sample would be a meteorite. It is a good question that I am not sure how to answer. Though the sample is likely to be mostly iron it will contain some amount of nickel. I would still guess that even high Ni content meteorites will rust. I would be suspicious if the sample did not oxidize. Maybe they coat some rings in a thin layer of epoxy or something to prevent rusting? Not sure.

Though the really high Ni meteorites do not display Widmanstätten pattern, which is something I would want my ring to display.

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