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King Nothing posted:http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/mcy/2328583251.html Depending on the condition in person, it looks like a very good price for the mileage. Expect to get new tires though. gently caress just look at that header pipe on the front... like not even heat corrosion yet  . I bought my 2007 sv650 for about 4200, but it was in perfect condition, had a HID light installed by a crazy lighting technician dude, and had ABS. The bike almost looks too clean to be real. Looking at that engine bay shot... gently caress. As long as their is no hidden damage, no massive cracks in the plastic I think it would be a good buy. Many of the SV's are bought as starter bikes, so seeing some dropped for stupid reasons is very common.
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Apr 18, 2011 06:35
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| # ? May 12, 2024 22:27 |
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I am now the proud owner of a 2001 Suzuki SV650S! 
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Apr 20, 2011 04:10
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Congrats! Does the front wheel look a bit bent in the 2nd picture?
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Apr 20, 2011 04:16
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the walkin dude posted:Congrats! Yeah, there's a small dent in the lip of the wheel. I'm guessing that happened at the same time he dropped the bike to cause the scrapes on the fairing.
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Apr 20, 2011 04:28
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Quick question: What is this?
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Apr 20, 2011 08:00
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A "slider". One that doesn't really do much imo.
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Apr 20, 2011 17:45
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Installed a gear postion display with gear emulator today on my 07. Yeah its not necessary at all, but is just a few more steps after installing the gear emulator which I did want, and its cool :-) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehEQ58K5cPY http://trackdayelectronics.com/ Awesome package btw, totally recommended to anyone with a compatible Suzuki. 100% plug and play, and it actually reads the gear from the sensor instead of trying to figure it out based on speed and RPM.
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Apr 20, 2011 21:52
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Cool to have, but 100 bucks for it? Nah. That's a tire or stainless lines or something more valuable. Cool if you have money to blow though.
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Apr 20, 2011 23:09
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opengl128 posted:Installed a gear postion display with gear emulator today on my 07. Yeah its not necessary at all, but is just a few more steps after installing the gear emulator which I did want, and its cool :-) I never understood the functionality of a gear indicator until I had a bike on the track with one. So very handy. Does it have any sort of significant lag or delay?
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Apr 20, 2011 23:28
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JP Money posted:A "slider". One that doesn't really do much imo. Sure it's a slider? I thought sliders were more peg-like and stick out further. The reason I ask is that the one on the right side is missing, and I'd like to replace it. I can't find it on cheap cycle parts (although http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/products/611379-suzuki-94413-19f00-hard-parts-panel-upper-rh looks somewhat similar). [edit] So some guys on svrider helped me out (http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=141737). Looks like it's just a piece of the lower, and I can't find a place to buy it separately. The lower needs to be replaced anyway, so once I get really comfortable with the bike and am confident I won't drop it, I'll probably just replace the entire lower fairing. Fangs404 fucked around with this message at 06:52 on Apr 21, 2011 |
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Apr 21, 2011 00:50
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Z3n posted:Does it have any sort of significant lag or delay? Maybe a fraction of a second, but not even worth mentioning. Apparently it has an even faster race mode for updating, it has all sorts of options I haven't messed about with yet.
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Apr 21, 2011 04:24
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My sidestand is droopy and has a ton of play in it, seems like there is a bolt missing as the sidestand is able to move around a ton in all four directions. Anyway, it finally caused a problem by killing the bike as I went over a big bump, so now I need to look at fixing my sidestand or bypassing the switch. Has anyone had to replace their sidestand springs? Will that alone be enough to stop the switch killing my bike, or is the sidestand flopping all over the place a sign of something worse going on? If it's easy to bypass the switch, I'm just going to do that and call it done. Sidestand isn't hanging low enough to drag often, just to turn the bike off.
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Apr 21, 2011 08:01
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Weinertron posted:My sidestand is droopy and has a ton of play in it, seems like there is a bolt missing as the sidestand is able to move around a ton in all four directions. Anyway, it finally caused a problem by killing the bike as I went over a big bump, so now I need to look at fixing my sidestand or bypassing the switch. I had to shorten my springs a bit to keep suitable tension on my sidestand as it was cutting the ignition whenever i hit a severe bump. Take them off, cut off the loop at one end and bend in a new loop, it'll do until you can buy new springs (or as in my case it's been fine for 2 years)
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Apr 21, 2011 16:37
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echomadman posted:I had to shorten my springs a bit to keep suitable tension on my sidestand as it was cutting the ignition whenever i hit a severe bump. Sounds perfect, thanks! First thing I did upon reaching my destination was tighten that bolt as much as it would go. Looks like there might be some metal fatigue or something going on, the bike settles down some more as I rest it on the stand every time. Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Apr 21, 2011 |
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Apr 21, 2011 16:49
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Check that the mounting bolts haven't vibrated themselves loose as well. Sidestands tend to get a little play in them over time, but the mounting bolts that mount it to the frame should be snug.
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Apr 21, 2011 17:04
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I ordered some new clutch/brake levers from http://www.d2moto.com/p-6782-suzuki-katana-gsx-600-750-sv-650-650s-black-brake-and-clutch-levers.aspx because the brake lever tip was broken at the ball from the previous owner's drop. They're cheap and easy to replace, so no biggie. However, both the shifter lever and rear brake pedal are also bent. Those parts aren't so cheap to replace, at least OEM (brake pedal, gear shifter). Is there another place I should look? What about aftermarket?
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Apr 22, 2011 02:13
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Fangs404 posted:I ordered some new clutch/brake levers from http://www.d2moto.com/p-6782-suzuki-katana-gsx-600-750-sv-650-650s-black-brake-and-clutch-levers.aspx because the brake lever tip was broken at the ball from the previous owner's drop. They're cheap and easy to replace, so no biggie. However, both the shifter lever and rear brake pedal are also bent. Those parts aren't so cheap to replace, at least OEM (brake pedal, gear shifter). Is there another place I should look? What about aftermarket? Assuming your SV is an '04+ you can replace the gear shifter with one made for a Hayabusa. http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=66786 Not sure about the brake pedal.
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Apr 22, 2011 03:27
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kylej posted:Assuming your SV is an '04+ you can replace the gear shifter with one made for a Hayabusa. It's an '01.  I found http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/products/178119-emgo-8388012-shifters-emgo-forged-aluminum-shift-lever which is much cheaper than OEM, so I'll probably pick that up. But I can't find any non-OEM brake pedal. I may just have to suck it up and buy OEM.
Fangs404 fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Apr 22, 2011 |
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Apr 22, 2011 04:14
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Fangs404 posted:I ordered some new clutch/brake levers from http://www.d2moto.com/p-6782-suzuki-katana-gsx-600-750-sv-650-650s-black-brake-and-clutch-levers.aspx because the brake lever tip was broken at the ball from the previous owner's drop. They're cheap and easy to replace, so no biggie. However, both the shifter lever and rear brake pedal are also bent. Those parts aren't so cheap to replace, at least OEM (brake pedal, gear shifter). Is there another place I should look? What about aftermarket? I like that price (and I should replace the clutch lever on the SV1), but the last time I ordered something from that place it took them a solid week and a half to get it to me, and I live maybe 10 miles away from them. Maybe I'll call them this time and arrange a pick-up. 
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Apr 22, 2011 05:02
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nm
King Nothing fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Apr 22, 2011 |
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Apr 22, 2011 20:38
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sirbeefalot posted:I like that price (and I should replace the clutch lever on the SV1), but the last time I ordered something from that place it took them a solid week and a half to get it to me, and I live maybe 10 miles away from them. Maybe I'll call them this time and arrange a pick-up. Maybe it was a fluke? The levers shipped via 1st class mail the day after I ordered them, so they'll likely be here tomorrow.
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Apr 22, 2011 23:21
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And so... whats old is new again. I started on an SV650S, and traded up until today, when I bought another SV650S. Pictures will have to come later. I wanted a bike for the track and that I wouldn't feel bad putting boring commuter miles on. I'm trying to migrate my riding habits to off public road activities as much as I can, so dirt bike, track supermoto and now a track bike. It's a 2004 SVS, 8,600 miles on the odo Full hot bodies track plastics w/ gas tank Full set of original street plastics w/ OEM lower fairing + Gas tank in blue Bran new Dunlop Qualifier tires Eibach rear shock and upgraded spring sprung at my weight & stock shock Revalved & fully adjustable forks EBC brake pads w/ 2 spare sets Custom billet aluminum rear sets w/ 2 spare sets GPR steering stabilizer Power commander Yosh exhaust & some straight no baffle GP style exhaust (Graves?) that looks like it would be waaaaay too loud to use OEM mono tail Braided lines + Spare braided lines Extra sets of throttle/clutch cables Like new tire warmers (used once) Box of filters Everything is safety wired A set of spare clip ons Spare levers Stomp grip pads on both tanks Wired for transponder Suzuki code reader & shop manual Clean title A ton of other odds, ends and spares I'm forgetting, sliders and such. I'm basically set. I'm going to paint some ridiculous scheme on the track plastics, throw some 'legal enough' lights and signals on there that can be removed at a moments notice for track duty and ride the hell out of this thing. The bike has been down, and has light scuff on some of the components but it's very minor stuff. There isn't a spec of dirt or grime on it anywhere though, chain and sprockets look immaculate, etc. I'm so very happy with this find. I neglected to take any photos while the sun was still out though, so that'll have to wait till tomorrow. Can't wait to have a bike for the track that I'm not afraid to crash (I'm looking at you, Ducati). I might drop a GSXR front end on it, but with all the suspension work I'm going to see how that plays out first. Maybe I'll be happy with a brake upgrade on its own. I'll use the money I was going to put to the front end on my dirt bike instead for a Sumo setup. $1600
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Apr 24, 2011 06:54
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That GP style exhaust is probably a Leo Vince...those things are $$$. what a goddamn deal.
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Apr 24, 2011 07:08
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Holy gently caress.
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Apr 24, 2011 15:03
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Here I am, ragin at your fuckin retarded deal  That's completely awesome. poo poo you can barely buy a crashed to hell and back SV for that around here!
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Apr 24, 2011 15:20
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Come ride it then! Now, some pictures: http://imgur.com/a/A3rhs#gc4Bw Took the lower fairing off for for easy loading into the truck.
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Apr 24, 2011 20:53
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I'm sure it has been asked in this thread a million times, but it is tire time for me. I need a rear mainly, but I'm thinking of just getting a set. Most of my riding is highway and I'd love to look at a harder center dual compound tire. I really know very little about them so give me suggestions! Thanks. Oh yea, 2006 S model, not that it really matters.
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Apr 25, 2011 00:18
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TheFonz posted:I'm sure it has been asked in this thread a million times, but it is tire time for me. I need a rear mainly, but I'm thinking of just getting a set. Any sport touring tire is what you want, pick a brand and go. I'm personally a big fan of the Michelin Pilot Road 2s, which can be found for cheap and are awesome tires all around.
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Apr 25, 2011 00:20
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Im having a real bastard of a time getting the baffle out of my stock exhaust. I can't get any drill bits to actually get through the top side of the baffle outer ring because the angle caused by the outer pipe and the welds on the baffle just make them skate around everywhere, and the deepest holesaw I have is 44mm which is about 10mm too short. I bought a grinding bit to take off some of the baffle so I can get the holesaw on it but the fucker broke before it took off more than about 2mm. Its seriously frustrating and now no more time to work on it tonight.. Anyone done this before on a Gen 2 and have any advice? Noone seems to have had this issue on the sv forums so clearly im doing something retarded - probably cause I don't really want to crush the tip of the baffle in cause I need to undo it to ride it if I mess it up.. Going to try my angle grinder (currently in the boot of my girlfriends car sitting in the airport parking lot while she's out of town) on it later this week see if it can do it without savaging the outer pipe.
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Apr 26, 2011 01:47
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GanjamonII posted:Im having a real bastard of a time getting the baffle out of my stock exhaust. I can't get any drill bits to actually get through the top side of the baffle outer ring because the angle caused by the outer pipe and the welds on the baffle just make them skate around everywhere, and the deepest holesaw I have is 44mm which is about 10mm too short. I bought a grinding bit to take off some of the baffle so I can get the holesaw on it but the fucker broke before it took off more than about 2mm. Its seriously frustrating and now no more time to work on it tonight.. Most people just drill the poo poo out of them because they never want to go back to stock.
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Apr 26, 2011 01:53
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Z3n posted:Most people just drill the poo poo out of them because they never want to go back to stock. Yeah Ive drilled the poo poo out of half it so far. Def not going back to stock, it already sounds about 10x better as is now. I am tempted to just spend $200 and get a delkevic can for it instead of loving about with it any further.
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Apr 26, 2011 02:05
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GanjamonII posted:probably cause I don't really want to crush the tip of the baffle in cause I need to undo it to ride it if I mess it up.
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Apr 26, 2011 13:49
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GanjamonII posted:Im having a real bastard of a time getting the baffle out of my stock exhaust. I can't get any drill bits to actually get through the top side of the baffle outer ring because the angle caused by the outer pipe and the welds on the baffle just make them skate around everywhere, and the deepest holesaw I have is 44mm which is about 10mm too short. I bought a grinding bit to take off some of the baffle so I can get the holesaw on it but the fucker broke before it took off more than about 2mm. Its seriously frustrating and now no more time to work on it tonight.. Finally finished cutting the end baffle plate - it was a massive pain. The angle grinder was incredibly fast at removing metal, but it was still about 4-5mm too deep for my holesaw to get through that plate. So I ended up using a hacksaw blade to do the 1/3 or so I couldnt get get with a drill bit. Then, elated at my success, I started the next phase - hammering a pipe down the exhaust to break off the internal welds. On the second or third stroke of the mallet the handle splintered. drat you $4 harbour freight mallet. I went to a 'real' hardware store and a suitable hammer is about $20.. seeing as I can return the busted mallet I am just gonna get one at HF sometime next weekend. For the moment it sounds alright, especially idling its got a nice bass to it and sounds like a real 'bike'. Sounds poo poo when its revving high so hope removing the baffle entirely helps with that. This is truly a case of needing the proper tools for the job.. With a deeper holesaw and a good hammer I'd have been done within an hour I think.
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Apr 28, 2011 22:30
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If I am not the worst bike mechanic of all time I'm certainly the slowest. I had an FH008 regulator/rectifier sitting on a shelf for three months before I finally finished installing it this evening. At least I learned a little about soldering in the process. Maybe now I'll be able to ride my bike without leaving it on a trickle charger for several hours every time I turn it off.
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Apr 30, 2011 07:09
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GanjamonII posted:This is truly a case of needing the proper tools for the job.. With a deeper holesaw and a good hammer I'd have been done within an hour I think. Finished this a couple days ago. 4lb sledge and pliers got it out in about 5 minutes. It sounds much nicer. I think at higher RPM before the baffle was hitting the side of the can and causing a buzzing sound. With the baffle removed the low RPM ranges sound amazing. Its actually not very loud at all. Definitely louder than stock but still fairly quiet compared to most of the guys I ride with who have after market cans. Higher up in the RPM range its actually hard to tell the difference.. its interesting because at a certain RPM it seems to actually get quieter.. must be something to do with resonant frequencies etc. There is a delicious popping on deceleration which you can get rid of by disabling the PAIR stuff, but I actually really like it (reminds me of my old alfa romeo) so I'm going to keep it around for a little while before messing with it further.
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May 1, 2011 22:17
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GanjamonII posted:There is a delicious popping on deceleration which you can get rid of by disabling the PAIR stuff, but I actually really like it (reminds me of my old alfa romeo) so I'm going to keep it around for a little while before messing with it further.  Probably not the best thing for the bike though.
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May 1, 2011 22:25
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I'm getting ~15.3v at idle, and the battery no longer spontaneously drains itself. I have a working bike again! The idle is a little rough, but it sounds fine with some throttle. Cleaning carbs sounds as fun as a root canal. If it keeps starting I'll keep riding it as is.
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May 2, 2011 02:11
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Loucks posted:If I am not the worst bike mechanic of all time I'm certainly the slowest. I had an FH008 regulator/rectifier sitting on a shelf for three months before I finally finished installing it this evening. At least I learned a little about soldering in the process. Maybe now I'll be able to ride my bike without leaving it on a trickle charger for several hours every time I turn it off. If you were riding around with a bad R/R but a good stator, you have been cooking your battery. Has it ever smelled like sulphur?
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May 2, 2011 02:24
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No sulfur smell at all. I replaced the lovely discount battery the previous owner put into the bike with the proper Yuasa when I first had starting problems and didn't ride it much after that failed to fix the issue. As in less than ten hours. According to the multimeter the battery wasn't receiving enough power* from the R/R to fully charge at any RPM, which then prevented me from starting without jumping it or plugging in the trickle charger. I don't know much about electronics yet. How would undercharging cook the battery? If I did manage to destroy the battery I'll just buy a new one. Thanks to this forum I knew from the start that bikes weren't cheap. edit: * I don't have the numbers handy. They're in a pile of papers somewhere, and I'm much too lazy to go dig around for them now. It was 11.x volts at 5kRPM I think. edit2: I assume that Techron and similar additives that claim to clean up carbs are a waste of money. Confirm/Deny? Loucks fucked around with this message at 03:44 on May 2, 2011 |
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May 2, 2011 03:40
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| # ? May 12, 2024 22:27 |
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Anyone know anything about front-end swaps on SV1KS? Specifically an 03' SV 1000N. A good friend of mine had his bike smashed up in a parking lot (it was parked at the time) and it needs new forks/rotor/brakes/wheel so I figured a front-end conversion much like you can do with the SV650 is possible, especially with how expensive the OEM parts are from Suzuki. I mean you can get a front-end for the 650 for $700-900 off a gsxr.
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May 3, 2011 02:28
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