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Cissa
Sep 23, 2007
One Lucky Duck

Chaco posted:

"Pink eye" can mean a couple different things, but the main one I think of is conjunctivitis--basically, the membranes around the eye (the conjunctiva) are inflamed. Why that is could be a number of reasons. Hopefully your vet looked very closely for things like an irritating object underneath the lid (foxtails are common here), hairs that might be poking the eye, ulcers, and anything that might be abnormal about the internal structure of the eye. Without seeing the eye, you understand how it's difficult to tell you what's wrong with your dog. It would not be unusual for there to be something irritating or affecting just one eye out of three dogs.

For healing, don't let her scratch it (e-collar her if necessary), and be consistent about applying the medication you were given.

The vet did the green dye test and checked for any scratches, foreign objects, or anything physiologically out of the ordinary. She said there wasn't anything so we got the antibiotic gel. Been using it since Monday and she's looking just fine.

But today, she's getting bright green mucus in her OTHER eye. So far no redness, scratching or pawing at it. I called the vet back and they suggested just to keep an eye on it (har har) and if it gets like the other did, put the antibiotic in that eye as well.

I'm also beginning to wonder if it's allergies, but her symptoms all added up to conjunctivitis.

In humans, E. Coli does cause pink eye, but the vet said that in dogs it's a different bacteria. It cannot be spread from dog to human.

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WolfensteinBag
Aug 7, 2003

So it was all your work?

KnifeWrench posted:

Our longhaired cat has recently stopped cleaning her butt, so she's constantly walking around with gross little particles of something dangling off of it. At first we thought it was messy poop, but neither the color or consistency matches what we've seen in the litterbox, so I'm thinking it's just loose bits of litter that are sticking to her because she is (inexplicably) sitting down in pee puddles.

We've tried trimming her hair to little avail (she's unreceptive to say the least), so I guess my question is: Is there a reason she'd have stopped grooming that area? Is there a way to get her to start back up consistently? Could it be something medical? I want to find a permanent solution before her hair starts getting matted.

If you've changed litters recently, that could be a culprit, too. I've noticed some are better than others with my longhaired cat. If you have a little cat-sized slicker brush and a comb at home, if you see stuff, you can always give it a quick brush & it should come out. The comb is to make sure you're thorough. Should keep the hair from matting, too. But like Abbeh said, make sure your cat's healthy, too!

KnifeWrench
May 25, 2007

Practical and safe.

Bleak Gremlin

WolfensteinBag posted:

If you've changed litters recently, that could be a culprit, too. I've noticed some are better than others with my longhaired cat. If you have a little cat-sized slicker brush and a comb at home, if you see stuff, you can always give it a quick brush & it should come out. The comb is to make sure you're thorough. Should keep the hair from matting, too. But like Abbeh said, make sure your cat's healthy, too!

Nothing new about the litter, but the food is new as of a few weeks ago. That's one of the reasons we initially thought it was messy poop.

She went to the vet today. Apparently she had some dental problems (gingivitis), which might explain her reluctance to groom to her usual standards. Other than that, she's put on a little weight, so we'll be cutting back the food supply a bit in case that was making it tough for her (she could certainly reach, but maybe she felt like she couldn't). The vet is going to take care of her teeth and give her a trim on her behind so hopefully it will stay cleaner for a little bit.

As for combing, a big part of the problem is how skittish she is about letting anyone else back there. I'll give it a try, but I'm definitely hoping for a more permanent resolution.

Eggplant Wizard
Jul 8, 2005


i loev catte

Crooked Booty posted:

Eggplant Wizard: You should register the chip with the company that manufactured the chip for two reasons.

Thanks for the post. The problem is, I have no idea who the manufacturer is, and the state of my mother's house suggests to me that the paperwork is long gone. All I have is a photocopy of his vet records, which have a sticker with the number of the microchip. I thought maybe there would be some way to tell which manufacturer it is by the number, but I had no luck googling for it. His number is 485E0D6F1A. Any idea where I could go to find out what kind it might be? I could call the vet who placed it and see what they usually use, I guess...

Crooked Booty
Apr 2, 2009
arrr

Eggplant Wizard posted:

Thanks for the post. The problem is, I have no idea who the manufacturer is, and the state of my mother's house suggests to me that the paperwork is long gone. All I have is a photocopy of his vet records, which have a sticker with the number of the microchip. I thought maybe there would be some way to tell which manufacturer it is by the number, but I had no luck googling for it. His number is 485E0D6F1A. Any idea where I could go to find out what kind it might be? I could call the vet who placed it and see what they usually use, I guess...
According to that website you posted earlier, it's a Home Again brand chip. :shobon:

One of my cats has a Home Again chip, and I think you have to pay for the first year's "membership" to register your contact info. Then they'll bombard you with emails in a year about how your pet is no longer protected and a bunch of nonsense that you can choose to ignore.

Eggplant Wizard
Jul 8, 2005


i loev catte
Oh man. Thanks. :eng99:

Yaaay now I can register him! Hooray!

Supercondescending
Jul 4, 2007

ok frankies now lets get in formation

Crooked Booty posted:

According to that website you posted earlier, it's a Home Again brand chip. :shobon:

One of my cats has a Home Again chip, and I think you have to pay for the first year's "membership" to register your contact info. Then they'll bombard you with emails in a year about how your pet is no longer protected and a bunch of nonsense that you can choose to ignore.

Frankie has a Home Again chip. They never shut up about how he's NOT PROTECTED but when someone found him running loose a few weeks ago and called the number on his tag (I posted about my parents letting them run loose while I'm out of town ohgod :gonk:) the Home Again people still called and put us in touch with the dude that found him and Moses. I hadn't paid their renewal fees in nearly 2 years sooooooooo yep~

Eggplant Wizard
Jul 8, 2005


i loev catte

Superconsndar posted:

Frankie has a Home Again chip. They never shut up about how he's NOT PROTECTED but when someone found him running loose a few weeks ago and called the number on his tag (I posted about my parents letting them run loose while I'm out of town ohgod :gonk:) the Home Again people still called and put us in touch with the dude that found him and Moses. I hadn't paid their renewal fees in nearly 2 years sooooooooo yep~

I was a little curious about this-- can I still update contact info if I don't renew?

Crooked Booty
Apr 2, 2009
arrr

Eggplant Wizard posted:

I was a little curious about this-- can I still update contact info if I don't renew?
Definitely. Some companies charge 5 or 6 bucks every time you update the info, but Home Again is not one of them.

Home Again website posted:

If pet owners decide not to renew their annual membership, will their pets’ microchip ID numbers and information still remain in the HomeAgain database?

Once entered in the HomeAgain database, microchips are registered for life, whether or not pet owners renew their annual memberships, and contact information may be updated online anytime free of charge by logging into HomeAgain.com. However, if a non-member’s pet is lost, they are not eligible for the value-added benefits included with the annual HomeAgain membership, such as: proactive outreach to local PetRescuer volunteers, travel assistance for found pets, the 24/7 medical hotline, etc.

ladyweapon
Nov 6, 2010

It reads all over his face,
like he's an Italian.

Crooked Booty posted:

According to that website you posted earlier, it's a Home Again brand chip. :shobon:

One of my cats has a Home Again chip, and I think you have to pay for the first year's "membership" to register your contact info. Then they'll bombard you with emails in a year about how your pet is no longer protected and a bunch of nonsense that you can choose to ignore.

Oh my god its saying neither Nermal or Sully's chips are registered :ohdear: So now I have to pay Avid (thats who their chips are through) a yearly fee (one time, no renewal) and put all the info in? I'll do it, its not a problem, I just don't want to pay money if I don't have to. I thought they were registered to me :ohdear:

e: googling around, the internet says it should be registered to someone (im guessing the shelter i got them at) but it literally says theres no pet owner information for them.

Crooked Booty
Apr 2, 2009
arrr

2508084 posted:

Oh my god its saying neither Nermal or Sully's chips are registered :ohdear: So now I have to pay Avid (thats who their chips are through) a yearly fee (one time, no renewal) and put all the info in? I'll do it, its not a problem, I just don't want to pay money if I don't have to. I thought they were registered to me :ohdear:

e: googling around, the internet says it should be registered to someone (im guessing the shelter i got them at) but it literally says theres no pet owner information for them.
Most shelters I've worked with do not change the registration over to the new owner automatically. Some small rescues do, but almost all the larger shelters in my area expect you to register them yourself. You may or may not have to pay a fee depending on whether the chip is registered to the shelter (i.e. you need to do change of ownership) vs. was never registered (i.e. you need to do a new registration). Also some shelters have discounts worked out with microchip companies, so you should call Avid and/or the shelter for details.

With or without registration, Avid knows which chips were sold to which vets/shelters. So if you don't register and your pet is found, Avid will at least be able to tell someone which shelter the cats came from. Some shelters and vets keep complete records of chips, and others don't. So you can get away without registering in some cases, but you're putting a lot of faith in the record-keeping of whoever implanted the chip. And even if their records are perfect, think about the scenario where your pet is found and scanned on a Friday night, but the shelter isn't reachable by phone until Monday morning, so the finder can't get any contact information. That's a long 2 days to be worrying or to have your pet sitting in a city shelter.

A Pretentious Owl
Mar 31, 2011

EB: it is true, it is a fact from an alien.
A quick question!

I moved to a new area recently, and the flea problem is way worse here than it was where I used to live. For whatever reason, topical flea medications never seemed top effective on my pets regardless (note I was using Frontline or Advantix, no terrible pet-store crap), so I decided to try the Capstar/Program combination. The only issue is that I have a Siberian husky (~75 lbs or thereabouts), a beagle (20 lbs), and four cats (for what it's worth, I'm really not a crazy cat lady, I just live with my mom and we both have two cats), and so I always have to buy large breed medicine JUST for my husky. However, I was looking at the dosages of the different sizes of Capstar and Program, and it seems like the small breed formulas literally just have half as much of the active ingredient in the pill for the same amount of money.

Basically I'm asking is there any harm in just buying the large breed versions of these medicines and cutting the pills in half for everyone that's not my husky. Thanks!

Kerfuffle
Aug 16, 2007

The sky calls to us~
In theory I don't see anything wrong with that, but definitely, definitely ask your vet first. Just give them a call I'm sure they'd be happy to tell you if it's safe.

RheaConfused
Jan 22, 2004

I feel the need.
The need... for
:sparkles: :sparkles:

A Pretentious Owl posted:

A quick question!

I moved to a new area recently, and the flea problem is way worse here than it was where I used to live. For whatever reason, topical flea medications never seemed top effective on my pets regardless (note I was using Frontline or Advantix, no terrible pet-store crap), so I decided to try the Capstar/Program combination. The only issue is that I have a Siberian husky (~75 lbs or thereabouts), a beagle (20 lbs), and four cats (for what it's worth, I'm really not a crazy cat lady, I just live with my mom and we both have two cats), and so I always have to buy large breed medicine JUST for my husky. However, I was looking at the dosages of the different sizes of Capstar and Program, and it seems like the small breed formulas literally just have half as much of the active ingredient in the pill for the same amount of money.

Basically I'm asking is there any harm in just buying the large breed versions of these medicines and cutting the pills in half for everyone that's not my husky. Thanks!

Please note that if the fleas are way worse, the mosquitos are probably way worse. Heartworm control is really important especially for the kitties, there is no cure for heartworm. Advantage multi and Revolution are great options for your kitties to protect from both fleas and heartworms.

forbidden dialectics
Jul 26, 2005





I adopted a new cat, he's a 4 year old male russian blue. He gets along fine with my other cat, a mangy-looking DLH (but sweet as can be). However, he HATES my dog, a pitbull but a tremendous baby. The other cat gets along just fine with the dog, they sleep in her crate together.

What can I do? The dog just wants to sniff the cat, maybe lick it, but every time she gets near him, he hisses and claws at her. I keep them separated as best I can, but it seems like the dog and the cat love finding each other. The poor dog's face is all sliced up but she STILL will not leave the cat alone. I've tried compartmentalizing them, but the cat still seethes with rage. He is otherwise the sweetest, most attention-craving cat I've ever met.

It's been about a month and there's no sign of letting up. If I crate the dog, the cat will walk around the whole house like he owns the place. But as soon as she's out, he attacks. He has plenty of places to hide/jump and could easily outrun the dog (it's not like she's chasing him, seriously she just wants to sniff), but he stands his ground and slices up the dog's face.

I can't really scold the dog, after all, she sniffs the other cat all the time and he doesn't give a gently caress. She hasn't displayed any aggressive behavior at all, even after getting scratched. The cat is the one that seems aggressive (which seems biologically retarded because he's like 8 lbs and the dog is 60).

FretforyourLatte
Sep 16, 2010

Put you in my oven!
Help, I am seriously at the end of my rope with Angel and her psychotic obsession with food!
At first we were free feeding like with my other two, and she would just eat everything on the planet and was getting way too fat. So, I cut her down to meals and even still I'm giving her more than she needs - 1/4 cup of Chicken Soup twice a day and wet in between - but as SOON as the dish is empty she starts to panic and forage for food. I assume this is some leftover instinct from her time as a stray, but we've had her for close to 3 months now and she's been on a feeding schedule for most of that time, when the hell is she going to calm down? It's really bad, if she can get into the other cats' food she will and eats all of theirs, even if she JUST finished her own. Failing that, she'll get into the garbage, knocking over cans and dragging it all over the floor. Yesterday something spilled out of the can she knocked over (YooHoo I think) and she was scrambling trying to lap it up as I cleaned it up. We had my daughter's birthday party a few days ago and I had cupcakes cooling on the table, I was out of the room maybe five minutes and she loving ate a cupcake. She'll jump up on the counters and eat food off of plates in the sink, she'll steal food right off our plates if we leave them for a second, any crumbs my daughter drops she's going after them. I mean ANYTHING, I've caught her dragging off pop tarts and cookies. What the hell kind of cat eats this stuff? My other two wouldn't even recognize that as food. Every time I head for the kitchen she is TEARING after me begging for food, and when I don't give her any she attacks and bites my feet. It never stops either, she is never satisfied. I'll feed her and the very moment she finishes her food she's foraging again.
I have had loving enough of this cat, with this and all the other problems I really can't put up with her anymore but my husband loves her for some reason and won't even consider rehoming her. :( What the hell am I supposed to do with her?

Dr. Chaco
Mar 30, 2005
Has she been to the vet since you adopted her? Some diseases can manifest as insatiable appetite, though usually they also lose weight if not eating as much as they think they need.

Can everyone in the house be meal-fed so at least there aren't other food bowls to get into? Another thing that might help is an automatic feeder so she quits associating you with the appearance of food. The incessant foraging might be more difficult to curb though.

What about foraging toys/puzzle toys, that dispense food over time as she works at it? It would at least spread mealtimes out for a bit, and again it would distance you a bit from the action of food appearing. You can also use those electric mats or sticky tape or whatever to train her to stay off counters, and then try to be extra vigilant that your food is only accessible there. I've also seen people use mousetraps to keep their dogs off of tables--if you trigger a couple right close to their face, they get the idea (be careful not to snap them!) and then even traps that aren't set, but just sitting on the table, acts as a deterrent.

Dr. Chaco fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Apr 23, 2011

Dubbean
Sep 1, 2004

A Pretentious Owl posted:

A quick question!

I moved to a new area recently, and the flea problem is way worse here than it was where I used to live. For whatever reason, topical flea medications never seemed top effective on my pets regardless (note I was using Frontline or Advantix, no terrible pet-store crap), so I decided to try the Capstar/Program combination. The only issue is that I have a Siberian husky (~75 lbs or thereabouts), a beagle (20 lbs), and four cats (for what it's worth, I'm really not a crazy cat lady, I just live with my mom and we both have two cats), and so I always have to buy large breed medicine JUST for my husky. However, I was looking at the dosages of the different sizes of Capstar and Program, and it seems like the small breed formulas literally just have half as much of the active ingredient in the pill for the same amount of money.

Basically I'm asking is there any harm in just buying the large breed versions of these medicines and cutting the pills in half for everyone that's not my husky. Thanks!

I don't know about these specific brands but I do know that some flea medication for dogs will kill cats. Personally, I would ask my vet before doing this. I don't blame you for being thrifty though.

FretforyourLatte
Sep 16, 2010

Put you in my oven!

Chaco posted:

Has she been to the vet since you adopted her? Some diseases can manifest as insatiable appetite, though usually they also lose weight if not eating as much as they think they need.

Can everyone in the house be meal-fed so at least there aren't other food bowls to get into? Another thing that might help is an automatic feeder so she quits associating you with the appearance of food. The incessant foraging might be more difficult to curb though.

What about foraging toys/puzzle toys, that dispense food over time as she works at it? It would at least spread mealtimes out for a bit, and again it would distance you a bit from the action of food appearing. You can also use those electric mats or sticky tape or whatever to train her to stay off counters, and then try to be extra vigilant that your food is only accessible there. I've also seen people use mousetraps to keep their dogs off of tables--if you trigger a couple right close to their face, they get the idea (be careful not to snap them!) and then even traps that aren't set, but just sitting on the table, acts as a deterrent.

Yes, she's been to the vet. She's healthy, other than apparently being somewhat insane.

I keep the other cats' food closed off in my room now and don't let her in at all, so unless someone leaves a door open she's not getting at it anymore. But, since that was cut off from her, the foraging has gotten exponentially worse. I'll have to check out the puzzle toys.

ladyweapon
Nov 6, 2010

It reads all over his face,
like he's an Italian.

Dubbean posted:

I don't know about these specific brands but I do know that some flea medication for dogs will kill cats. Personally, I would ask my vet before doing this. I don't blame you for being thrifty though.

When I was a kid we accidentally gave our cat the dogs flea medicine. He didn't die, but he went into seizures and a bunch of other stuff

Braki
Aug 9, 2006

Happy birthday!

FretforyourLatte posted:

Yes, she's been to the vet. She's healthy, other than apparently being somewhat insane.

I keep the other cats' food closed off in my room now and don't let her in at all, so unless someone leaves a door open she's not getting at it anymore. But, since that was cut off from her, the foraging has gotten exponentially worse. I'll have to check out the puzzle toys.

I'm sorry to hear that there are more problems with Angel, Fret. :( Is she getting along better with the other cats at all?

Fret's behaviour now sounds a lot like Aidan, actually. He pretty much does everything you've described except attack my feet in the kitchen. That's just kind of how some cats are, and you have to work around it. Aidan would get into the garbage for food, so we put child locks on the cupboards leading to the garbage. He figured out how to open the child locks, so we had to put on a second set of locks with a latch. Aidan likes to lick dirty dishes in the sink, so we have to minimize the number of dirty dishes, or at least ensure they're covered over in soapy water (he will still lick at that sometimes). He will eat anything, all the stuff you've listed that Angel goes for and then some. He would smack chips or popcorn out of my hand so that he could eat it. We, eventually, out of frustration, just locked Aidan away in a separate room while we were eating so that he would stop bothering us. Oddly enough, he seemed to get the hint that when we cooked food, he was going to get put away, so when we started reaching for him he would jump into his cat tree and stay there while we ate. Now he has actually become very good about not begging. About 80% of the time, when we're done cooking and we're ready to eat, he retreats into the cat tree. The other 20% of the time, if he begs and we reach for him, he'll usually run into the cat tree and stay there for the rest of the meal.

Broccoli Must Die!
Aug 12, 2004

Meow.
I don't have time to go through the entire subforum/thread so apologies if this has been answered already.

I have a cat, Toby, who is about 1 year old. I often call him Toby the Special Needs Cat, simply because I sometimes wonder if looking after a retarded child would be much simpler.

Toby has an annoying habit of only wanting to eat his food when I'm standing next to him or nearby. If I walk into another room he'll immediately follow me and act all anxious. If I walk back to his food bowl he'll start eating again. Repeat as necessary.

Eventually if he gets hungry enough he'll go eat his food, but I can tell he's not very happy about it.

Although the problem largely takes care of itself, should I be worried at all? Or is it something I'm going to have to wait for him to grow out of or just learn to deal with?

For great justice, here is a picture of the little bastard:

FretforyourLatte
Sep 16, 2010

Put you in my oven!

Braki posted:

I'm sorry to hear that there are more problems with Angel, Fret. :( Is she getting along better with the other cats at all?


Well, nobody has been attacked in a while, but we've just been keeping them seperated so she hasn't had a chance. If she's loose downstairs we close the door to our bedroom and they hang out in there, if they're loose upstairs we put her in the basement. Rotate. She just can't be around them. Well, she does OK with Spooky, because Spooky showed her who's boss a couple times, but poor Lestat is just not a fighter, he runs and hides. We put a bell on her so they can hear her coming and he totally disappears whenever he hears the jingle. If she sees him, she will go after him.

Thanks for the input, I hope that means there is hope that this little poo poo will someday be a tolerable cat. :sigh:

Fraction
Mar 27, 2010

CATS RULE DOGS DROOL

FERRETS ARE ALSO PRETTY MEH, HONESTLY


Is incense smoke bad for dogs to inhale? I found my incense sticks yesterday and lit one today by an open window, and as soon as it finished I realised that it possibly wasn't the best thing to do to burn incense near the dogs. Neither seemed that bothered (well, the pup snorted/coughed when she ran through it at full-speed but only then and only the once), but I don't want to cause them any problems.

Damn Bananas
Jul 1, 2007

You humans bore me
Has anyone tried having a sort of planter-box of grass on a patio/balcony for letting a dog out on? The dog we will be adopting was houstrained years ago so I'm not too worried about "confusing" her, but we've got a nice spacious 4.5ft-fenced-in patio and we've gotten enough hailstorms this spring to worry me about taking her out in bad weather. It's not in place of normal walks and sniffing around, but in case of weather, woke-up-way-too-late mornings, or if we're all just chilling on the balcony on nice days.

I was considering a DIY box of real grass, but if there are reasons one of the artificial doohickeys would work better I'd consider it.

Nate405
Oct 21, 2002


We're thinking about getting a front clip harness for our dog because we've heard it can help cut down on pulling and it's more comfortable for the dog. Are there any particular brands/types that I should be looking at or are they pretty much all the same?

Evilreaver
Feb 26, 2007

GEORGE IS GETTIN' AUGMENTED!
Dinosaur Gum
My little dog has a barking problem while outside and one of the solutions we came across was a device that detected barks and dog-whistles at him, like a bark collar except not a collar- an installed device like invisible fencing or something (I didn't see it). We worry that since he's a small dog a regular bark-collar would be overkill. I've never seen or heard of one before, and I figured this was as good a place as anywhere to ask if they are effective or worthwhile?

Fatty Patty
Nov 30, 2007

How many cups of sugar does it take to get to the moon?

Nate405 posted:

We're thinking about getting a front clip harness for our dog because we've heard it can help cut down on pulling and it's more comfortable for the dog. Are there any particular brands/types that I should be looking at or are they pretty much all the same?

I have two front clip harnesses made by two different manufacturer's. There are pros and cons to both.


The first one I bought was this one. I bought it for my dog who weighs 35 pounds in a size medium. The medium was too big, so I returned it and got the small/medium. That one was too small for him, so I use it for my other dog. It is decent. It was very cheap, but it was also cheaply made. The one pro about this one is that the front has a martingale style d-ring attachment. It tightens more when she pulls.


Then I got this one. It is more money, but it is made better. The design is slightly different, and it makes it harder for him to try to pull out of it. One of the things you really need to make sure of is that the harness is nice and snug every time you go for a walk--these front clip harnesses are easy to slip out of. Anyway, this one was made with better materials, and the clips are stronger too.

Instant Jellyfish
Jul 3, 2007

Actually not a fish.



Nate405 posted:

We're thinking about getting a front clip harness for our dog because we've heard it can help cut down on pulling and it's more comfortable for the dog. Are there any particular brands/types that I should be looking at or are they pretty much all the same?

I've tried the Easy Walk (it was all I could find in the pet store at short notice) and the Sense-ation harness. The EW is easier to find and cheaper but I could never get it adjusted just right and the martingale front just made it saggy so I had to clip it on to my dogs collar to keep it from flopping around whenever it got unadjusted for the millionth time. It did work though and it stopped my 75 lb dog from pulling me while we were working on LLW.

The Sense-ation I ordered online when it was on sale a month or so ago and I like it a lot better, even though its more expensive. The straps are cushy so no armpit rubbing and it fits a lot better. I haven't had to readjust it even after getting it wet a couple times and I find it easier to get on without trying to remember which buckle goes where. My one issue with it is that the coating on the metal rings has worn off pretty quickly and it stains my dog's chest gray. This may not be a problem if you don't have a white dog and it doesn't bother me enough that I've stopped using it.

Gray Stormy
Dec 19, 2006

Last week my wife and I rescued/adopted a puppy. We have two 5 year old kitties already.

In preparation, we put some stuff(litter, food, water, toys) upstairs and put a gate up at the bottom. We also left them food, litter, water, and toys downstairs as well and gated off a room for them.

When we brought Lola(puppy) home she was already exhausted so we introduced her to the boys. She didnt lunge at them or make any attempt to chase them, and they got about a foot or so away from her before hissing and romping upstairs.

Its been about a week now and relations between Lola and the boys have gotten a bit better. They now come downstairs pretty regularly to visit, but they still spend the very great majority of their time upstairs.

Over the last three days, our big cat(Toby) has been peeing on our bed. Ive been coming home from work to find big ol' piss spots on our mattress. I cant for the life of me figure out what is wrong with him, but he is pissed off about something. I know its something puppy-related, but he has been fine up until now.

Any ideas?

Also, we have a fellow or two coming to our house to hang and finish drywall in our kitchen next week. Would Lola be okay in her crate during the day, or would it be a better idea to take her to my office with me?

MoCookies
Apr 22, 2005

Gray Stormy posted:

Last week my wife and I rescued/adopted a puppy. We have two 5 year old kitties already.

In preparation, we put some stuff(litter, food, water, toys) upstairs and put a gate up at the bottom. We also left them food, litter, water, and toys downstairs as well and gated off a room for them.

When we brought Lola(puppy) home she was already exhausted so we introduced her to the boys. She didnt lunge at them or make any attempt to chase them, and they got about a foot or so away from her before hissing and romping upstairs.

Its been about a week now and relations between Lola and the boys have gotten a bit better. They now come downstairs pretty regularly to visit, but they still spend the very great majority of their time upstairs.

Over the last three days, our big cat(Toby) has been peeing on our bed. Ive been coming home from work to find big ol' piss spots on our mattress. I cant for the life of me figure out what is wrong with him, but he is pissed off about something. I know its something puppy-related, but he has been fine up until now.

Any ideas?

Also, we have a fellow or two coming to our house to hang and finish drywall in our kitchen next week. Would Lola be okay in her crate during the day, or would it be a better idea to take her to my office with me?

I don't know poo poo about cats, so I can't help you there. Maybe throw a tarp or shower curtain over your bed after you get up in the morning? Personally, I'd take Lola to the office with me. Drywall installation promises to be loud, and the noises + strangers might be pretty scary to a new pup. It would suck if she started associating being really scared with being locked in her crate. I think it's smarter to take the pup with you (or to a doggy daycare) and just avoid the potential problem.

Captain Foxy
Jun 13, 2007

I love Hitler and Hitler loves me! He's not all bad, Hitler just needs someone to believe in him! Can't you just give Hitler a chance?


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Evilreaver posted:

My little dog has a barking problem while outside and one of the solutions we came across was a device that detected barks and dog-whistles at him, like a bark collar except not a collar- an installed device like invisible fencing or something (I didn't see it). We worry that since he's a small dog a regular bark-collar would be overkill. I've never seen or heard of one before, and I figured this was as good a place as anywhere to ask if they are effective or worthwhile?

Pretty much no 'bark collar' is ever effective, and if it is, it's only temporary. The dog never learns to stop barking, just is punished for the act, so the behavior always continues. We've got a pretty drat good write up (if I do say so myself) on why small dogs bark and how to stop it in the small dog megathread.

Dr. Chaco
Mar 30, 2005

Gray Stormy posted:

Last week my wife and I rescued/adopted a puppy. We have two 5 year old kitties already.

In preparation, we put some stuff(litter, food, water, toys) upstairs and put a gate up at the bottom. We also left them food, litter, water, and toys downstairs as well and gated off a room for them.

When we brought Lola(puppy) home she was already exhausted so we introduced her to the boys. She didnt lunge at them or make any attempt to chase them, and they got about a foot or so away from her before hissing and romping upstairs.

Its been about a week now and relations between Lola and the boys have gotten a bit better. They now come downstairs pretty regularly to visit, but they still spend the very great majority of their time upstairs.

Over the last three days, our big cat(Toby) has been peeing on our bed. Ive been coming home from work to find big ol' piss spots on our mattress. I cant for the life of me figure out what is wrong with him, but he is pissed off about something. I know its something puppy-related, but he has been fine up until now.

Any ideas?

Also, we have a fellow or two coming to our house to hang and finish drywall in our kitchen next week. Would Lola be okay in her crate during the day, or would it be a better idea to take her to my office with me?

A week of a new dog sounds about right for inducing a stress-related urinary issue, whether it's behavioral (marking) or medical (Feline Interstitial Cystitis). With my interstitial cystitis cat, her flare-ups can usually be correlated with a stressful event or change that started a week or so previously.

Things you can do to alleviate dog-related stress: make sure there are plenty of hiding spaces, litter boxes, toys, food, and water dishes in areas that the cats can use without even going near the dog.

Gray Stormy
Dec 19, 2006

Chaco posted:

A week of a new dog sounds about right for inducing a stress-related urinary issue, whether it's behavioral (marking) or medical (Feline Interstitial Cystitis). With my interstitial cystitis cat, her flare-ups can usually be correlated with a stressful event or change that started a week or so previously.

Things you can do to alleviate dog-related stress: make sure there are plenty of hiding spaces, litter boxes, toys, food, and water dishes in areas that the cats can use without even going near the dog.

They have the entire upstairs chock full of goodies for them, plus an entire room downstairs. Toby has always pissed on the bed to tell us he is angry about something.

Got fixed? Pissed on the bed while looking right into my eyes.
Brought Ivan home? Pissed on my wife while she was asleep.

Those are the only other two times he has done it.

It sounds like really the long as short of it is to put something down under a blanket just in case and just wait it out.

Ill be bringing her to the office as well. I had the same concerns that MoCookies did, but wasnt 100% on it.

Dr. Chaco
Mar 30, 2005
Pretty sure cats don't pee on things to teach us a lesson about angering them.

RazorBunny
May 23, 2007

Sometimes I feel like this.

Buy a Feliway diffuser! Ours has made a huge difference with Charlie and visiting kitty KC, and my sister's totally stressed out shycat is doing loads better since she plugged one in near where he sleeps.

Edit: And yes, now that I read over it again, they're right - he should go to the vet if it's been going on for more than a day or two.

RazorBunny fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Apr 27, 2011

RheaConfused
Jan 22, 2004

I feel the need.
The need... for
:sparkles: :sparkles:

Gray Stormy posted:

They have the entire upstairs chock full of goodies for them, plus an entire room downstairs. Toby has always pissed on the bed to tell us he is angry about something.

Got fixed? Pissed on the bed while looking right into my eyes.
Brought Ivan home? Pissed on my wife while she was asleep.

Those are the only other two times he has done it.

It sounds like really the long as short of it is to put something down under a blanket just in case and just wait it out.

Ill be bringing her to the office as well. I had the same concerns that MoCookies did, but wasnt 100% on it.

Take him to a vet. Seriously. Cats don't pee on things because they are mad. No, really. Listening? Really, they don't pee on things because they are mad. He probably has stress related cystitis and is in pain. Cats seek soft things to pee on so that they don't associate the litter box with pain.

Take him to a vet. Even if they have the whole upstairs and blah blah whatever, a new animal in the house is enough. Especially if he's don't it 3 times. It could also be crystals (less likely) which are a big risky scary deal.

Wsobchak
Mar 28, 2011

by elpintogrande
So, today, while grooming my 1-year-old tabby for the first time with a new brush, I've discovered that she's got an amazing case of dandruff.



Her condition is not at all visible from the outside. I should mention that my girl is incredibly lazy, voracious eater, obesed and doesn't groom herself often. Her coat is pretty oily and thick. Tell me oh goons, what needs to be done with her? Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.

Supercondescending
Jul 4, 2007

ok frankies now lets get in formation

Wsobchak posted:

So, today, while grooming my 1-year-old tabby for the first time with a new brush, I've discovered that she's got an amazing case of dandruff.



Her condition is not at all visible from the outside. I should mention that my girl is incredibly lazy, voracious eater, obesed and doesn't groom herself often. Her coat is pretty oily and thick. Tell me oh goons, what needs to be done with her? Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.

What food is she on?

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Dr. Chaco
Mar 30, 2005
She needs to lose weight. Lots of obese cats seems to have gross, oily coats with lots of dandruff, and it improves dramatically when they lose weight and can actually groom themselves properly. The Nutrition thread has several posts talking about how to achieve weight loss in cats.

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