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So now that Honda put mileage up for the CBR I guess I estimated my horrible, horrible mileage about right (41 MPG lol).
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Apr 23, 2011 04:59
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| # ? May 18, 2024 11:56 |
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OMG the new CBR250R is fuel injected and has an ABS option
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Apr 23, 2011 05:09
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SaNChEzZ posted:Even then, 10 inches is a bit much. My wife always says this.
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Apr 23, 2011 06:49
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lancemantis posted:OMG the new CBR250R is fuel injected and has an ABS option This is old news isn't it?
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Apr 23, 2011 08:55
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Saga posted:My wife always says this.
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Apr 23, 2011 09:15
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Has anyone put more cafe racer type handlebars on the bike? I'm thinking of putting "m" bars or "Ace" bars on my 2008 Bonneville and putting on a kit to move the foot controls rearward. I understand this will give me a sportier riding profile, but how will it affect riding the bike? I understand the cafe bars are lower and possibly wider, making the bike more controllable at highway speeds, but I've heard they make the bike harder to turn at low speeds. Anyone have experience with this?
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Apr 24, 2011 04:38
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lancemantis posted:So now that Honda put mileage up for the CBR I guess I estimated my horrible, horrible mileage about right (41 MPG lol). I saw anywhere between 22 and 47 mpg on my CBR1k. Normal riding usually had me around 38mpg. Not the most fuel efficient thing around but it was fun  . Gets better economy than my drat 625SMC though, you'd think a bike with a third less displacement and only 40% of the power would do a little better... haha
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Apr 24, 2011 04:45
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Armyman25 posted:I understand the cafe bars are lower and possibly wider, making the bike more controllable at highway speeds, but I've heard they make the bike harder to turn at low speeds. Anyone have experience with this? Ace bars suck. Seriously, absolutely suck. It'll be stupidly uncomfortable and yes, they're balls at low speeds because your hands are level or in front of the forks.
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Apr 24, 2011 04:49
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Armyman25 posted:Has anyone put more cafe racer type handlebars on the bike? The M bars don't look too bad to me, but if you're spending $70 on standard chrome bars you're wasting money. You can get bars for $20 that probably have that bend from ebay or something like that.
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Apr 24, 2011 05:19
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Saw a guy and his three kids ride by today (one on the tank, two on the pillion seat). At least they all were wearing helmets, so safety first!
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Apr 24, 2011 06:06
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What is a good technique for "heel/toe" on a bike? I can sometimes get a good blip while braking, but it usually means letting off the front brake involuntarily. I suppose it's fine to just let the clutch out slowly and let it drag the engine up to speed, but a quick, well executed downshift is one of the great pleasures of life. Perhaps I should take violin lessons to improve my motor skills.
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Apr 24, 2011 08:48
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Ola posted:What is a good technique for "heel/toe" on a bike? I can sometimes get a good blip while braking, but it usually means letting off the front brake involuntarily. I suppose it's fine to just let the clutch out slowly and let it drag the engine up to speed, but a quick, well executed downshift is one of the great pleasures of life. Perhaps I should take violin lessons to improve my motor skills. Practice, really. I always sucked at blipping and braking (although I'd end up yanking the brake on harder rather than letting it off) but it eventually just started working.
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Apr 24, 2011 08:59
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Definitely something that just takes practice. You want to let your fingers slide over the brake lever while using your palm to blip the throttle. Ideally, you maintain consistent pressure on the brake lever as your fingers slide over it.
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Apr 24, 2011 09:19
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What I've done before, and this will sound very weird, is press my three outer fingers against the lever unsupported by the palm. This normally means turning the handlebars, but with the other hand - actually just the pinkie and ringfinger as the rest are doing the clutch - I counter the force so it's steering straight. The right thumb and index finger does the throttle blipping. No wonder I can't get it right? It's not as complicated as it sounds, it takes many pages of text to describe playing a guitar I suppose. Operating the throttle with my palm is a bit hard as the movement is stiff. I might need a new cable, but it seems like it's just a strong spring. It snaps back very nicely.
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Apr 24, 2011 11:21
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Ola posted:What I've done before, and this will sound very weird, is press my three outer fingers against the lever unsupported by the palm. This normally means turning the handlebars, but with the other hand - actually just the pinkie and ringfinger as the rest are doing the clutch - I counter the force so it's steering straight. The right thumb and index finger does the throttle blipping. No wonder I can't get it right? Help me out. What are you guys talking about? Heel toe? Blipping? Huh? 
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Apr 24, 2011 13:47
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needknees posted:I saw anywhere between 22 and 47 mpg on my CBR1k. Normal riding usually had me around 38mpg. Not the most fuel efficient thing around but it was fun yeah big singles seriously suck gas at highway speed. I've never measured mine, because I don't want to know just how bad it is. I do know that 90mph is around 5500rpm, which isn't too far below redline.
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Apr 24, 2011 13:52
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Crayvex posted:Help me out. What are you guys talking about? Heel toe? Blipping? Huh? Heel/toe in a car means operating your brakes and gas at the same time using a single foot, heel on one pedal and toes on the other. It lets you rev match to change gears while braking. "Blipping" is giving a quick burst of gas to speed up the engine and allow a smoother downshift (matching the revs of the engine to those of the transmission).
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Apr 24, 2011 14:10
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Uthor posted:Heel/toe in a car means operating your brakes and gas at the same time using a single foot, heel on one pedal and toes on the other. It lets you rev match to change gears while braking. Thanks for the clarification. I feel slightly less retarded now.
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Apr 24, 2011 14:28
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Linedance posted:yeah big singles seriously suck gas at highway speed. I've never measured mine, because I don't want to know just how bad it is. I do know that 90mph is around 5500rpm, which isn't too far below redline. I don't do a whole lot of highway riding with my 625 because it kinda sucks to have the bike strung out that high for long periods of time. Even with in town / state highway speeds (~60mph) I normally average around 35mpg. To be fair though, I ride the thing like a COMPLETE AND TOTAL jackass. Constantly. I did manage to only do a few wheelies one tank and otherwise keep my right wrist under control and got 45mpg, but it was boring  Ola posted:What is a good technique for "heel/toe" on a bike? I can sometimes get a good blip while braking, but it usually means letting off the front brake involuntarily. I suppose it's fine to just let the clutch out slowly and let it drag the engine up to speed, but a quick, well executed downshift is one of the great pleasures of life. Perhaps I should take violin lessons to improve my motor skills. When you're learning how to rev match under braking it helps to be braking HARD. The more pressure you have on the lever the less likely you're going to get the bike bucking with extra brake inputs. I only ever brake with two fingers - my index and California Hello fingers. This leaves the rest of your fingers/hand free to blip away to your heart's content. Trying to separate the blipping motion from your braking input is the hardest thing, it just comes with practice. Sorry I can't be of more help than "just keep trying it, it'll come eventually" but that's really all there is to it  . Try to make a trip where every single downshift while braking you make coming up to stop signs, lights, whatever is done with an attempt to rev match. It won't take you too long to get it down successfully! needknees fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Apr 24, 2011 |
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Apr 24, 2011 14:31
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needknees posted:When you're learning how to rev match under braking it helps to be braking HARD. The more pressure you have on the lever the less likely you're going to get the bike bucking with extra brake inputs. I only ever brake with two fingers - my index and California Hello fingers. This leaves the rest of your fingers/hand free to blip away to your heart's content. Trying to separate the blipping motion from your braking input is the hardest thing, it just comes with practice. Sorry I can't be of more help than "just keep trying it, it'll come eventually" but that's really all there is to it Funny, I have the opposite problem. I can blip downshift at low levels of braking without it being an issue after practice, but when I'm really hauling on the brakes, any attempt to blip causes the front end to bobble as I release and reapply the brakes slightly. Everyone says "Practice, practice, you'll get it eventually", I worked my rear end off practicing downshifts while blipping and was never able to get it smooth enough to really use at high speeds. However, there are many ways to skin a cat, and I use a couple of other techniques to get my downshifts smooth. First of all there's the traditional super moto technique, hard on the front brake, bang all the downshifts, let it slide if it needs to. That's my usual technique at the track. More clutch wear, but modern clutches are pretty beefy and take it just fine. The other option is what Jason Pridmore does...on the first downshift, as you're approaching where you want to start braking, you pull the clutch in slightly so RPMs go up and click it down a gear. For single downshifts I find this technique is super smooth, but it only works at the very first downshift, because otherwise the throttle is shut and pulling in the clutch causes RPMs to drop, not rise. It's one of my favorites for street riding though, especially 2 up, because of how smooth it is, no helmet bobble. Give it a shot. There are also a variety of techniques for blipping. Kevin Schwantz advocates braking with your first 2 fingers, lifting your palm off the bar, and rolling the throttle between your thumb and outer 2 fingers. One of my old school riding friends brakes with 4 fingers and lifts his hand slightly of the bar so he can blip with the palm of his hand. Some people brake with the outer 3 fingers so they can wrap their pointer and thumb around the bar and blip that way. But when it comes down to is, practice is the key. I doubt I'll ever really blip again on the track, and I predict that within the next 3-5 years we'll see blipper boxes on bikes anyways.
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Apr 24, 2011 16:01
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Wow, just finished watching One Week. Amazingly powerful movie, if anyone here hasn't seen it. It has one really painful scene near the end that will make anyone here cringe though.
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Apr 25, 2011 02:52
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Z3n posted:There are also a variety of techniques for blipping. Kevin Schwantz advocates braking with your first 2 fingers, lifting your palm off the bar, and rolling the throttle between your thumb and outer 2 fingers. One of my old school riding friends brakes with 4 fingers and lifts his hand slightly of the bar so he can blip with the palm of his hand. I took the Total Control class yesterday, and both instructors were using the 2 finger method. It's great for smooth riding, and setting up a turn, but if you have to STOP NOW, you absolutely can't do it faster than a (controlled, progressive) hard mash down on the lever and pedal.
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Apr 25, 2011 03:57
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Oh, so I took the Lee Parks Total Control class yesterday. They actually teach good stuff. I'm already pretty comfortable with some of the stuff, but the parts on body position and line sighting were really helpful. My speed through exit ramps and local twisty roads has already increased dramatically, and I've got some good fundamentals to build on if (when) I actually make it to a track day. Some annoying bits to it, but overall *definitely* worth the money and time. I suppose that's assuming you get good instructors. I'd guess it could suck if the trainers aren't any good at their jobs.
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Apr 25, 2011 04:01
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Lee Parks is a dick, but I like his book.
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Apr 25, 2011 05:20
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SlightlyMadman posted:Wow, just finished watching One Week. Amazingly powerful movie, if anyone here hasn't seen it. It has one really painful scene near the end that will make anyone here cringe though. Just added it to my instant queue on netflix. Looking forward to watching it.
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Apr 25, 2011 06:12
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It's not the most original plot in the world, but I'm pretty sure that even if it wasn't 50% open road vintage bike porn, I'd have still thought it was pretty good.
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Apr 25, 2011 14:30
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So in order to see if I can sort out what sounds like a very intermittent misfire on my new-to-me CBR, I decide to pull the plugs and check out the plug wires and coils with my trusty multimeter. Getting to the coils, I see one black and one red wire on coil no 2. How useful I think, they're colour-coded them to help you keep track of which is which. I then pull off the rubber dust boot between coils/airbox and head cover, and see this.  What looks very much like a CBR600F (not F2 or F3) HT lead from a bike 6-8 years newer. No actual cap over the plug hole, so it's just wobbling around in there, presumably collecting dirt and water. This bike could have its own front page article. We could call it "WTF, CBR?"
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Apr 25, 2011 19:56
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I sold my v-strom and I want to dump some money into tricking out the drz 400. I am thinking full exhaust, 3x3 job, and a rejet (possibly a new carb altogether). It is the S model running SM wheels. I really want the midrange power, I'd also like it to not be screamingly loud. Any advice/guidance?
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Apr 26, 2011 00:46
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ohwandernearer posted:I sold my v-strom and I want to dump some money into tricking out the drz 400. I am thinking full exhaust, 3x3 job, and a rejet (possibly a new carb altogether). It is the S model running SM wheels. I really want the midrange power, I'd also like it to not be screamingly loud. Any advice/guidance? Get the FCR and an E model exhaust if you can find it. Stock sound, but more power. Any aftermarket exhaust tends to get really loud, really fast, even with the baffling inserts. Exhausts on DRZs tend to bias the power upwards, so I really liked the E model exhaust with the larger headpipe that allowed for better power but was still really quiet. I think some companies might sell a header that is larger diameter but will still fit the stock mid/muffler, worth looking into. The gains from the exhaust tend to be at the top end, and the noise is all at the top end, not a combination I like.
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Apr 26, 2011 01:02
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Anyone else in the Seattle area thinking of going to Backfire Moto 23? Seems like it should be a fun waste of time, rain or not.
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Apr 26, 2011 03:50
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Z3n posted:Get the FCR and an E model exhaust if you can find it. Stock sound, but more power. Any aftermarket exhaust tends to get really loud, really fast, even with the baffling inserts. Exhausts on DRZs tend to bias the power upwards, so I really liked the E model exhaust with the larger headpipe that allowed for better power but was still really quiet. FMF have that gimmicky expansion chamber thing in their 4t pipes right? Combine that with a Q/Q4 series can? How Q they actually are is another question I guess. And yeah, singles on open pipes = ear bleedingly loud. Especially as you're revving the poo poo out of them to get anywhere on the road. It got to the point with my Duke that I was slightly weary of deafening everyone within a 5 mile radius just to get it up to highway speeds. Not that it stopped me.
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Apr 26, 2011 06:50
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Slim Pickens posted:Anyone else in the Seattle area thinking of going to Backfire Moto 23? Seems like it should be a fun waste of time, rain or not. I've gone twice, there are always a lot of fun bikes there.
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Apr 26, 2011 07:47
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Yeah, the website shows a lot of pretty cool bikes there. This Wednesday's probably gonna be crap for weather, and they seem to hold them almost monthly, so I'm about 50/50 on going.
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Apr 26, 2011 18:42
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First ride in Riga tonight. I got my bike bought and registered today, and it needed gas, so I take it out in search of a gas station. I found out earlier it has trouble idling at a stop. I have to give it a little gas or it will stall, and since it's a kick start that can be annoying. Also, apparently proper lane position here is in the center of the lane. I was being followed by an SUV today who decided that since I was in proper lane position (in the left lane) that there was all that space to my left with which to pass me in. gently caress. The first time I noticed him creeping up and backed him off. The second time I noticed him as he was sharing the lane with me. Motherfucker. Also, found out that the brakes basically don't work. Luckily on my big fat slow cruiser I didn't need them much, but I will one day. Sigh. To the mechanic!
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Apr 26, 2011 18:53
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Slim Pickens posted:Yeah, the website shows a lot of pretty cool bikes there. This Wednesday's probably gonna be crap for weather, and they seem to hold them almost monthly, so I'm about 50/50 on going. :/ I'd go, but I have boxing from 5-6, so I'd probably only get there around 645.
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Apr 26, 2011 19:06
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TheCosmicMuffet posted::/ They usually run pretty late, bikes don't tend to trickle in till about 30 minutes after opening and once it's kicking there can be 200-300 bikes
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Apr 26, 2011 19:35
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A local cop had to lay errrr down. http://rochester.ynn.com/content/top_stories/541298/officer-lays-down-motorcycle-to-avoid-crash/
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Apr 27, 2011 02:11
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the walkin dude posted:A local cop had to lay errrr down. And these are the riders who are suppose to set an example for others 
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Apr 27, 2011 03:01
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Buying a 2004 VTR250 at my local dealership, my first bike! It finally arrived at my local dealership today from another dealership a few hours away.. Went to check it out, they put new tyres on it for free! Awesome! Except it is raining. for the next few days. And I'm not comfortable in the slightest riding on brand new tyres on wet roads.
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Apr 27, 2011 10:33
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"Layed it down to avoid a crash" needs to be changed to the "police officer crashed to avoid a crash" and mocked appropriately. I'd kill for some more info, like if the bike stopped sliding before the car or not. I doubt that'll happen as this seemed like an accident update news story.
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Apr 27, 2011 15:52
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