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Track pads swapped in and brakes bled on the RS 4. VIR beckons.
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Apr 19, 2011 03:58
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Gave my 240 its first oil change since it lost a cam seal (and most of its oil) ~6K miles ago. I refilled the oil after I installed the new seal, but I didn't do the filter, since it looked fairly fresh. Turns out the filter on there wasn't the correct one for the car. In addition, someone had put a couple fiber washers on the drain plug instead of the proper copper crush washer, which probably explains the slow leak from the drain. With the copper washer on there, the plug has stayed bone-dry, so far. Unfortunately, I found out when I went to change the filter that both motor mounts had broken, so those need to be replaced promptly, lest the engine drop onto the crossmember without warning. Stupid 240 motor mounts 
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Apr 19, 2011 04:18
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timb posted:I still don't understand how the condenser can be 40f and the driver's side vent only be putting out 78f... The condenser shouldn't be cold. The evaporator inside the cabin should be cold. The condenser should be out on the front of the car (probably in front of your radiator), and hot. If your 40f is actually the evaporator, then you have an air flow problem. Either your blend door's messed up or there's an airway blockage like a clogged cabin air filter or the fins are clogged on the evaporator itself. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 13:29 on Apr 19, 2011 |
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Apr 19, 2011 13:22
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Right, I meant evaporator. Blend door is fine. Testing with VAG-COM shows a full 0-255 range on the potentiometer when activated. It's a fresh cabin filter. That only leaves the evaporator being clogged. That's going to be a drat bitch to get too. Edit: Was able to pull the top vent off and look straight down to the evaporator. The fins don't really look clogged from the front. I suppose I could rig a wand up, hook it to my air compressor and blow it out that way. If I take out the cabin filter, any dust should blow out there. That said, it's 65f outside right now, and with that top center vent off and the AC on full blast, I was measuring a temperature of about 42f. I really think the interior is just getting so hot sitting in the sun, the system is having trouble cooling the entire car down. I've got an appointment for next Wednesday to get the windows ceramic tinted. I've also got a custom fit windshield sunshade coming. I also think that when it's hotter out, the tiny little condenser is having trouble. It's actually behind the radiator as well, which I don't think helps much. HATE TROLL TIM fucked around with this message at 15:03 on Apr 19, 2011 |
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Apr 19, 2011 13:55
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timb posted:I also think that when it's hotter out, the tiny little condenser is having trouble. It's actually behind the radiator as well, which I don't think helps much. I'd ask why car companies would do such a thing, but it's probably because most people won't shut off the A/C when the car is overheating in weather that melts asphalt like most AIers would.
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Apr 19, 2011 16:18
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Belldandy posted:You never properly bedded your pads. That's just pad deposit. No big deal. Go do (IN A SAFE AREA) 8 - 10 stops from 60mph to about 15 - 10mph To add to this, give the rotors a good minute or so between stops to cool off- do it too quickly and you'll warp 'em, and then you will need new ones, or at least a resurfacing.
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Apr 19, 2011 18:30
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The point of bedding the brakes is to get them hot to get pad material to transfer. Cooling between stops isn't recommended.
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Apr 19, 2011 18:42
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Fucknag posted:To add to this, give the rotors a good minute or so between stops to cool off- do it too quickly and you'll warp 'em, and then you will need new ones, or at least a resurfacing. Warped rotors are a myth. How many times do we need to cover this in AI? Rotors with pad deposits on them (the original problem!!!) are what people confuse with warped rotors. And yes, do not cool between stops.
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Apr 19, 2011 22:25
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More 240 crap-I pulled this stupid thing out of the airbox today. In a perfectly maintained 240, this assembly causes air to be taken in through an inlet on the airbox that connects to a hose that's connected to a heatshield on the exhaust manifold. Once the engine warms up, the flap moves (thanks to a thermostat) and allows ambient air to be taken in through a different, larger inlet. What generally ends up happening is that the hose rusts apart and falls off. When that happens, the flap never moves, since the air entering the airbox never heats up, and the engine is stuck trying to breathe through the much smaller inlet that the hose connects to. Without the flap in place, the car has much better throttle response and seems to have more power. Not bad for 15 minutes of work.
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Apr 20, 2011 03:18
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Broke my PCV nipple valve - only, not that simply. Since I finally have the doors fixed, I can get a proper readout of what is running through the system without the generic code of 'not right' through the halfassed aftermarket alarm replacement (in-house hasn't existed in at least a decade). So, with the doors fixed, I re-setted the ACC into the system, and immediately the rear defrosters came on. Groovy. There's my drain. Disconnected ACC, let car continue to warm up - then gave it a few punches up to 3k after it was to get it to the 'random miss' issue it was having. Started rechecking hoses that were fine, but also, started rechecking 'seemed fine' valves. Broke off the PCV nipple by gently tugging at it - I never did figure my way around those properly. v  vThankfully it was back in idle and not sucking air so the small bits of minute plastic that did break off - didn't go anywhere. Capped hose and valve, closed, and now waiting for a $3.99 part, $10 shipping (ok, so I said screw this and bought more of what I anticipate needing to offset that charge).
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Apr 20, 2011 04:01
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Put the dash back together, finished putting the new brakes on, and shook the shattered core of the catalytic converter out of the muffler. Betcha that fixes my acceleration issues.
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Apr 22, 2011 04:46
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I, with one arm, removed the entire interior from the rear of my car in preparation of installing my new stereo system. You have to rip out a huge pile of interior plastic panels to do this. While I'm at it I'm completely cleaning the sheet metal. There is 19 years of dust under the panels. I'm rewiring the entire system, replacing every speaker, and installing a new head unit and sub + amp. I wish my goddamn thumb was better so I could go nuts.
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Apr 22, 2011 05:12
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Oh hey is the corner exit this way  (offramp at Buttonwillow CCW)
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Apr 22, 2011 11:13
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Recharged my A/C with R-12a. Compressor load went from 12Nm with R-134a to 7Nm with R-12a! Condenser temperature went from 40f to 30f (@ 70f ambient), and vent temperatures went from 64f to 46f! Really impressed with this stuff.
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Apr 22, 2011 13:07
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Under hood temperatures went from 200F to 1200F!
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Apr 22, 2011 15:38
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FatCow posted:Under hood temperatures went from 200F to 1200F! Actually, the danger is greatly overstated. From Duracool's FAQ: quote:What is the difference between regular propane and the refrigerant propane that is used to manufacture the DURACOOL® products? Duracool has an auto ignition of 1635°F, which is actually higher than the auto ignition of R134a (1328°F). After doing some more research on my own, I feel confident in the safety of R-12a. I mean, gently caress, I'm sitting on 75 pounds of highly flammable gasoline, which is injected into my engine at thousands of PSI. You also have a sump of highly flammable oil and at least a gallon of flammable methanol under the hood. I seriously think 8 ounces of refrigerant grade propane is the least of your worries. HATE TROLL TIM fucked around with this message at 01:21 on Apr 23, 2011 |
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Apr 22, 2011 16:58
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Detailed the inside of the 91; put a screw in the broken PCV nipple to cap it off; duct taped up the valve while waiting for parts. Will see how bad idle is tomorrow - need to get it nice and warm; dinosauce is very filthy.
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Apr 22, 2011 18:14
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Installed extended seat brackets in the Mustang because I'm a big dude and having my knees up by the non tilt steering wheel is not very comfortable. Getting used to pushing the clutch in from the new position will take some time; looking in to readjusting everything down there. Also found a speed clip so I fixed the pesky triangular mirror covers that always seem to fall off in the fox bodies. Now I just have to fix the speedo because I'm pretty sure I'm not doing 180km/h proceeding from a stop sign/red light. Although I could be 
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Apr 22, 2011 18:51
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I put a bunch bolt on parts in the baby. I went to a shop to put in a twin disk clutch and had a few more parts put in it. Was annoyed that the cams never showed up (still haven't). Then it got thrown on a dyno and wizardry was performed to make this:   I hope to be making 380whp with larger cams and retune. I immediately drove the car to the other side of the state to do my first AutoX!    I have torn out half the engine components almost every weekend for the last month. Yesterday I tore out the Intake Manifold and everything else in the way to tap and plug the EGR hole because I was worried that the exhaust gases would melt the phenolic gasket despite the EGR solenoid being turned off in the ECU.
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Apr 23, 2011 21:50
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Ripped out my malfunctioning aftermarket throttle body and put the OEM one back in. Also got some new shoes for the car.  
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Apr 23, 2011 23:26
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I replaced the upper radiator hose in my E36. For some reason it was bulging: The rubber felt very soft so I'm thinking it's just age (and I will be keeping a close eye on the lower section, which looks fine - they only have about 49k on them) rather than a blockage of some sort.
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Apr 23, 2011 23:30
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CornHolio posted:I replaced the upper radiator hose in my E36. For some reason it was bulging:  That hose clamp!
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Apr 24, 2011 00:04
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Sponge! posted:
It's actually tightened on the thermostat, and isn't restricting the hose at all. The dealership put that on a few years ago; mine is in the same place of but course without that bulge.
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Apr 24, 2011 00:29
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CornHolio posted:It's actually tightened on the thermostat, and isn't restricting the hose at all. The dealership put that on a few years ago; mine is in the same place of but course without that bulge. Use aircraft clamps on rad hoses... That one is PROBABLY ok as a normal worm clamp, but I still cringe at it. :P
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Apr 24, 2011 00:44
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Podothehobbit posted:Ripped out my malfunctioning aftermarket throttle body and put the OEM one back in. So uh... why have you got RS-3s on a Yaris? 
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Apr 24, 2011 08:55
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Admirable Gusto posted:So uh... why have you got RS-3s on a Yaris?
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Apr 24, 2011 09:08
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Geirskogul posted:He played the Yaris game for the 360 and was like "gently caress yeah I can drive up halfpipes"? This would be the correct answer.
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Apr 24, 2011 09:24
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Sponge! posted:Use aircraft clamps on rad hoses... That one is PROBABLY ok as a normal worm clamp, but I still cringe at it. :P So wait, what would you use on a rad hose? Aircraft clamp into google isn't bringing up a whole lot.
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Apr 24, 2011 13:13
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Beach Bum posted:So wait, what would you use on a rad hose? Aircraft clamp into google isn't bringing up a whole lot. I'm guessing t-bolt hose clamps, i.e.  I think the reason is you want the clamp to be around the hose without all the notches in it for the screw drive, because those notches can cut into the hose.
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Apr 24, 2011 16:23
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Got some proper valve covers for the 67 a couple weeks ago. Got them sandblasted, painted and put on.   
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Apr 24, 2011 16:31
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I got the car,truck, and both bikes washed and waxed. Changed the oil on the car and truck. Cleaned and waxed the chains on the bikes, and cleaned and oiled the air filter on the DR(it was nasty, I am surprised it was still running).
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Apr 24, 2011 18:53
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Finally finally finally got my brakes back together with 0 leaks (so far) and promptly drove 100 miles including the M25 and M3 without a single traffic hold-up. Car feels so much better with new rear bushings and rear anti-roll bar. Haven't had much chance to play with it but instead of the front starting to slide in long turns it just bites harder and harder. When I'm happy that the brakes aren't at all leaky I'll go for a more enthusiastic drive.
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Apr 24, 2011 19:07
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Replaced my side-view mirror housings to a side-view mirror housing with puddle lights. I'll post pics of the finished lamps later in post your ride, but here's the wiring part. I had to tie it into a door module that turns the door courtesy lights on when the door opens. I really don't like puddle lights, but the wife really wanted them (complaining about not having them like the BMW) so I figured I could wire them so they only came on when the door was open. http://imgur.com/a/q988z#9ctSK
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Apr 26, 2011 01:13
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Washed the Cobalt SS just in time for a thunderstorm to roll in. Thanks, mother nature. At least it isn't covered in bird poo poo anymore.
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Apr 26, 2011 04:51
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Finally fixed my steering wheel "popping" problem. Turned out the set bolt was tight against the steering column, but not tight enough and allowing a tiny bit of play if you pulled back on the wheel hard enough, making a popping sound. Also replaced the left wheel bearing which was a loving BITCH. Car's only 5 years old, 44k miles, and the hub was seized inside the knuckle. I can't wait until I do the other side (I'm putting it off for a nice day). I had to undo the tie rod and connection to the strut just so I can turn the knuckle around and bang at the hub from the back with a hammer and heavy duty punch. It's actually a miracle I didn't hit the wheel sensor for the ABS because I hammered on it for 2 hours straight before it started to budge. When putting the new one back in, I liberally applied anti-seize to the mating surface in the knuckle. I also discovered that the tie-rod nut also lost a few threads when I loosened it, which kinda hosed the threads on the tie rod as well. It took me an hour of thinking about what to do about it to remember that I had a 10x1.25mm die in the basement. After chasing the threads on the tie rod, I found a fresh 10x1.25mm nut by some miracle in the cupholder of my old Talon. I tightened it down to 25ft*lb, 6 more than the factory specified, just to make sure the cleaned-up threads could hold enough torque to keep it on there. What should've been a 90 minute job at the most took 6 hours all-told.
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Apr 26, 2011 15:13
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Passed safety inspection, good for two years! Had to do some major bodywork (weld in patches, make purdy with bondo and repaint), exhaust work (weld that bitch up) and electrical (hazard/turn signal switch loving up). Huge load off my mind since I need it for a mandatory work term at the start of May and I'm broke as a joke.
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Apr 26, 2011 15:47
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I bought four really cheap tires for my Taurus. They're Sumic GT-A's. I've never heard of the brand, but for 70 dollars a pop, and a great warranty from the shop, I decided to give them a go. So far they seem to ride pretty good and I haven't heard one peep out of them. http://www.tiresbyweb.com/p-9286-multi-mile-sumic-gt-a-tires.aspx I'll report back if the tread flies off on the freeway. Hopefully. 
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Apr 27, 2011 01:19
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New registration sticker: check Oil/filter change: check Intake filter change: check, for the first time in a loooooong time - 15,969 miles on the old one, and I'm surprised by how clean it looked. That takes me back to June of last year, though, so I guess it's not all that long. Oil sample for my first blackstone run: check. I've never done one before, and this will coincide roughly to the car's 100,000 mile birthday. I keep borderline OCD notes on my driving, thanks to the trip computer providing the information to me. As an example, I can tell you I have spent 53 full entire 24-hour days behind the wheel of my car since I got it in June of 2009. Anyway, the reason I mention it is that I figured I should provide my notes to the blackstone people, in case any of it matters to them: "3/4 quart burned from first 2826 mi. If it's worth anything, the engine ran for 203 hours (approx). I consumed 206 gallons of mostly 7-11 and WaWa gasoline, if it matters" I guess I'll find out in a week or two if it matters.
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Apr 27, 2011 02:40
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Blackstone are great, and are huge nerds when it comes to oil. Send them ALL of that information, they'll love it! I doubt it matters, but they'll run all sorts of comparisons and thank you for the data. Sign up for their newsletter, every couple of months I get an email where the president of the commpany makes an epic story out of driving his truck around. I love those guys.
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Apr 27, 2011 04:35
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| # ? May 10, 2024 05:36 |
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mhsneon posted:I got the car,truck, and both bikes washed and waxed. Changed the oil on the car and truck. Cleaned and waxed the chains on the bikes, and cleaned and oiled the air filter on the DR(it was nasty, I am surprised it was still running). yhelothar old friend! Truck looks nice..didn't know you picked up an FJ.
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Apr 27, 2011 04:38
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