|
iForge posted:Dwoloz, I do not mean to insult your intelligence here. I am merely asking because things don't add up to me. In certain states they run water lines in odd places. I believe in Arizona, partially on the back side of the house in some cases. And a natural gas line isn't to dangers to cut into. The stoichiometry has to be pretty exact for an explosion to occur. For a quick and easy trouble shooting. If you can get access near the shower lines from down stairs. Try shaking them, if they move its more of a water hammer / bad supporting. MarshallX posted:So when I go down the route of flushing the system with all taps closed, which tap do I open first after the line is wide open from the street again. The flushing idea is done with. The only thing it does to help, is put air in a vertical capped Tee if they decided to save money and not put a hammer arrester in. If you drained down the house once already then you obviously don't have a capped tee in your house. Now you can either install two $20 shark bite hammer arresters and see if they fix it. Or you can track down a cartridge which from what I find on google will run you about $50. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 14:15 on Mar 15, 2011 |
#
?
Mar 15, 2011 14:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 16:30 |
|
|
iForge posted:Dwoloz, I do not mean to insult your intelligence here. I am merely asking because things don't add up to me. Haha thanks but it's water. Our water meter is in a box on the sidewalk and our line runs underground in the front yard then pops up to the mystery fixture posted above I have to use a 4 foot cheater on the street key to turn the drat meter valve. I worry because there might come a day when someone else besides me needs to turn off the water (ie an emergency) and they won't know how to do it
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2011 18:15
|
|
|
iForge posted:I have never seen a water meter outside, nor have I seen a water pipe set up like that. Are you sure that isn't the gas meter and a gas line you are looking at? Water meter should be inside where it cannot freeze. Refer to my pic for a general idea. Good point about the freeze risk, though. It's not normal for water pipes to enter a home above the frost line.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2011 10:53
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:The flushing idea is done with. The only thing it does to help, is put air in a vertical capped Tee if they decided to save money and not put a hammer arrester in. So - I flushed the lines the correct way yesterday and closed all the taps before turning back on and it seems to have fixed the problem. I only hear a small murmur from the wall now. I think this solidifies your claim that I need a hammer arrester?
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2011 13:58
|
|
|
MarshallX posted:So - I flushed the lines the correct way yesterday and closed all the taps before turning back on and it seems to have fixed the problem. I only hear a small murmur from the wall now. It could just be a pipe support problem now. I can't say for sure with out being there.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2011 15:27
|
|
|
grover posted:All the water meters are outside the homes in my neighborhood, in underground boxes with the street key. Ah. Doesn't freeze here in the Bay Area
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2011 01:26
|
|
|
I've decided I'm going to just replace the whole 1/2" galvanized main line from the meter to the house with either 1" soft copper or pex. Pex is still pretty uncommon in CA but it was approved for use last year and would be substantially cheaper. I've never seen an example though so I'd be flying dark Is pex strong enough to survive a light shovel impact or is it best to run it inside ABS or some other hard pipe? As the picture I posted showed, my current main line pops up from underground just before the house then goes into the crawl space. With pex, would I have to run it underneath the foundation into the crawlspace? I figure like PVC, exposure to UV is probably not good for the plastic
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2011 04:36
|
|
|
dwoloz posted:I've decided I'm going to just replace the whole 1/2" galvanized main line from the meter to the house with either 1" soft copper or pex. Pex is still pretty uncommon in CA but it was approved for use last year and would be substantially cheaper. I've never seen an example though so I'd be flying dark I don't know if pex is approved underground outside of a foundation. They usually use poly pipe. It doesn't hurt to sleeve anything honestly.Also you don't want to scar pex with a shovel, hell you shouldnt really hit any pipe with a shovel if you can help it. Running the water line under the foundation is fine, but I'd still sleeve it , to prevent it from rubbing on the concrete. Especially if its copper.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2011 16:39
|
|
|
My crawlspace sump pump died and I bought a new one to replace it (both submersible). The pump plugs into a power strip that in turns runs through the floor and plugs into an outlet. I realize this is jury rigged and I'll have it wired properly soon as I get a chance. The pump sits inside a bucket buried in the ground. I filled the bucket to test it and reached into the water and got zapped. With the power strip turned off I get no reading on a voltage tester and the pump doesn't run but I still get zapped by the water, apparently the power strip is.. leaking electricity for lack of a better way to say it. With the pump unplugged obviously I don't get zapped. Even if the strip is bad why am I getting zapped by the water? Just a bad pump? Poor ground? Just seems odd.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2011 02:49
|
|
|
wormil posted:My crawlspace sump pump died and I bought a new one to replace it (both submersible). The pump plugs into a power strip that in turns runs through the floor and plugs into an outlet. I realize this is jury rigged and I'll have it wired properly soon as I get a chance. The pump sits inside a bucket buried in the ground. I filled the bucket to test it and reached into the water and got zapped. With the power strip turned off I get no reading on a voltage tester and the pump doesn't run but I still get zapped by the water, apparently the power strip is.. leaking electricity for lack of a better way to say it. With the pump unplugged obviously I don't get zapped. Even if the strip is bad why am I getting zapped by the water? Just a bad pump? Poor ground? Just seems odd. It sounds like the seal on the electrical box of the pump is bad. I'd take it back and exchange it for a new one. Or you can mess with the electrical box of it and see if you can get it to seal properly. Also if you don't have one. I would suggest installing an alarm on the it also. SO If it over fills, the alarm will catch it and not flood the crawl space.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2011 04:45
|
|
|
I just installed a tile floor on top of the concrete pad. The toilet flange is on the level of the concrete. Should I use a flange extender or will the wax ring suffice?
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2011 15:00
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:I just installed a tile floor on top of the concrete pad. The toilet flange is on the level of the concrete. Should I use a flange extender or will the wax ring suffice? It really is hard to say, depending on the toilet itself. But to be save just use a wax with a built in horn on it. When you set the toilet down, you should feel it squish the wax. You will have to sit on the toilet and kinda rock on it back and forth while facing the tank to get it to seat properly. If you set it down and it doesnt squish the ring at all then you may have to double ring it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2011 15:06
|
|
|
Home Depot carries an extra tall ring that should do the trick. I used one for the same situation you're in On a side note, I have a new main line! 1" copper. Already a big improvement in pressure throughout the house but still some old galvanized that needs to go
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2011 17:51
|
|
|
I just have a general question. I live in a condo, and my wash machine has a hose that simply sits in a pipe to drain the water from the wash machine to...where ever the water is suppose to go. Since last week, the water has been spilling over onto my floor because the it's not draining fast enough. I'm guessing it's just some lint that's built up from draining with the water, would something like Draino down that pipe be sufficient to fix it?
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2011 11:42
|
|
|
Paccione posted:I just have a general question. I live in a condo, and my wash machine has a hose that simply sits in a pipe to drain the water from the wash machine to...where ever the water is suppose to go. Since last week, the water has been spilling over onto my floor because the it's not draining fast enough. I'm guessing it's just some lint that's built up from draining with the water, would something like Draino down that pipe be sufficient to fix it? I would either try a drain bladder or a snake. You're guess is as good as mine about drainer. I never use the stuff since my other options work a lot better.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2011 16:06
|
|
|
My tenants downstairs report a broken faucet. It leaks at the base when it is on, from just dribbling out when it is just barely on to spraying out when it is on full blast. Any ideas on how easy this is to fix?
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2011 01:26
|
|
|
Since it's leaking where the neck meets the body, probably a gasket issue? Whether you could disassemble the faucet enough to get to that gasket is another matter... Call it a feature, free water fountain.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2011 02:00
|
|
|
Or one of the knobs is backfilling the neck. Edit: Just saw that the spray changes based on whether it is on or off. That will tell you whether it is the knob or the neck gasket if you try one on, one off and compare.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2011 02:05
|
|
|
jackyl posted:Or one of the knobs is backfilling the neck. The water shoots out whether it is the warm or cold.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2011 02:15
|
|
|
Then yeah, you need to take the faucet off to see what it is. There's a nut under the counter holding the neck in place that you can undo. Once you do that, you can pull the faucet out and turn the water on to inspect where it is leaking from. Disassemble wherever that is and replace any washers, gaskets, plumbers putty, or whatever it is depending on the faucet. Edit: not that I'm a big fan of tossing stuff away needlessly, because I'm not, but that looks like a cheap faucet. By the time you go to the effort of fixing something, you might be better off just getting a new faucet if you can get one like like that for $30 or $40. Depends on your evaluation of your plumbing ability. This option requires less effort, skill, and home depot runs than the first one. let it mellow fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Apr 8, 2011 |
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2011 02:25
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:It really is hard to say, depending on the toilet itself. But to be save just use a wax with a built in horn on it. When you set the toilet down, you should feel it squish the wax. You will have to sit on the toilet and kinda rock on it back and forth while facing the tank to get it to seat properly. If you set it down and it doesnt squish the ring at all then you may have to double ring it. I set the toilet down, and got a slight squish, but not what I expected. It's got the horn on it, but I think I'm gonna add another ring to be safe. Do I put this 2nd ring under the horn connecting with the floor, or on top connecting with the toilet?
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2011 02:54
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:I set the toilet down, and got a slight squish, but not what I expected. It's got the horn on it, but I think I'm gonna add another ring to be safe. Do I put this 2nd ring under the horn connecting with the floor, or on top connecting with the toilet? If it squished you should be fin, but you put the 2nd wax ring on the top of the one with the horn. Just make sure once you have it fully bolted down to test it before you caulk it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2011 19:47
|
|
|
Edit, nevermind. Was trying to relight a cranky water heater, found out from roommate that the pilot igniter is broken. Going to call the landlord instead of loving with it. 
Bees on Wheat fucked around with this message at 09:41 on Apr 24, 2011 |
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2011 07:50
|
|
|
Mizufusion posted:Edit, nevermind. Was trying to relight a cranky water heater, found out from roommate that the pilot igniter is broken. Going to call the landlord instead of loving with it. You can still light it with a long match or bbq ignitor.
|
|
#
?
Apr 24, 2011 19:53
|
|
|
The water in my bath tubs is yellow. I didn't notice this for the first several months I lived in this house because I never tried to take a bath. The water seems to be clear when it comes out of the faucet but, when it collects in the tub, it is definitely a yellow tint. We don't use the tubs a lot and we do leave time for the water to run before putting the stopper in the tub to collect water. I am pretty sure I have PVC pipes that were put in when this house was renovated in 2003. I live in Atlanta and am using city water. We don't notice it in the tap that comes from other faucets in the house. Is it possible that this is just due to water sitting around in certain pipes and picking up minerals?
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2011 16:41
|
|
|
tadashi posted:The water in my bath tubs is yellow. I didn't notice this for the first several months I lived in this house because I never tried to take a bath. The water seems to be clear when it comes out of the faucet but, when it collects in the tub, it is definitely a yellow tint. We don't use the tubs a lot and we do leave time for the water to run before putting the stopper in the tub to collect water. If the water pipe is all pvc and cpvc you wouldnt get any coloration from the pipe. And since its city water i doubt its the water itself. You could try collecting some water in a glass and let it sit to see if its not the tub itself. Also does it do it with just hot and or cold water?
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2011 16:59
|
|
|
I put this in the 'fix is fast' thread, but then found this thread which is probably more relevant: I'm installing a Basement Watchdog backup sump pump in my new (new to me) house. I'm using the existing discharge pipe from the main AC pump, connecting with a Y above both check valves. When I activate the backup pump, there's a lot of gurgling and gushing in the sump hole, and water sprays out of the vent hole I drilled in the pip below the check valve. However, water does not make it all the way outside. I'm looking at a lift of about 9 feet or so. Everything discharges fine with the main pump, but the backup one isn't clearing the sump hole. Any thoughts?
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2011 19:46
|
|
|
Phummus posted:I put this in the 'fix is fast' thread, but then found this thread which is probably more relevant:
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2011 20:15
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I would have installed the discharge on its own seperate line for the back up. Since if the check valve is bad the pump will just push it against itself. above the check valve is there a gate valve you can close to make sure its not the check its pushing by. I did the installation according to the enclosed instructions. It looks roughly like this:  The only difference is that I have a 1.5/1.25" bushing on the top and bottom of the Y, as the existing PVC was 1.25"
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2011 20:29
|
|
|
tadashi posted:The water in my bath tubs is yellow. I didn't notice this for the first several months I lived in this house because I never tried to take a bath. The water seems to be clear when it comes out of the faucet but, when it collects in the tub, it is definitely a yellow tint. We don't use the tubs a lot and we do leave time for the water to run before putting the stopper in the tub to collect water.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2011 00:01
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:You can still light it with a long match or bbq ignitor. This is what the repairman ended up doing, but he had to take some paneling off, or something like that, and I didn't want to mess with that. Plus I didn't have long matches or anything like that on hand. The better news is that the landlord is probably going to replace the water heater when he's back from vacation, because it went out twice in the last week.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2011 09:42
|
|
|
Phummus posted:
Probably dumb questions but are you sure that a) you have enough water in the sump to discharge and b) the check valve arrows are pointing the correct direction (up)? Those are the only two possibilities I can think of, besides maybe a stuck check valve as Rd Rash mentioned.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2011 13:55
|
|
|
Plenty of water in the sump, no problem there. I'm going to take things apart tonight to make sure that the check valve isn't stuck. I'm wondering if the pump is just underpowered and can't push that column of water.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2011 14:41
|
|
|
Mizufusion posted:This is what the repairman ended up doing, but he had to take some paneling off, or something like that, and I didn't want to mess with that. Plus I didn't have long matches or anything like that on hand. Sounds like just a bad thermal couple, you can always try a ten dollar part to see if its just that or the gas valve itself.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2011 16:04
|
|
|
Phummus posted:Plenty of water in the sump, no problem there. I'm going to take things apart tonight to make sure that the check valve isn't stuck. I'm wondering if the pump is just underpowered and can't push that column of water. Then it very well could be the pump cant push that much water vertical.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2011 23:04
|
|
|
First of all, it is awesome there is an active plumbing thread going on with goons who actually know what their talking about providing some answers. That said, here's my problem. I've purchased a new utility sink to replace the old ugly one that has ancient leaky faucets. The o-rings in the faucet are shot, and are really oddly shaped, so that the local hardware stores don't have any replacements. Here's what I've got currently:  Separate galvanized pipes (about 3/4" OD, which I think makes them 1/2" ID) for hot and cold, going into a t-valve with washing machine hookups, and then into the leaky faucet.  I think those fittings are pretty standard for washing machines, right? As you can also see in this picture, there is some pretty good corrosion going on, so I'm not sure that I can just replace the faucet. What would be the best way to replace the pipes from where they drop down vertically? I looked at converting them to PEX, but it appears you need some horribly expensive crimping tools. Can I convert to PVC, perhaps and still have all the necessary connections? I just spent an hour and a half staring at stuff at both ACE and Lowe's and didn't seem to find exactly what I need. I don't think this should be too bad, but I need a push in the right direction. Oh and here's one of the fittings for the new faucet that I will need to hook up. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2011 02:58
|
|
|
rhombus posted:First of all, it is awesome there is an active plumbing thread going on with goons who actually know what their talking about providing some answers. That said, here's my problem. The boiler drains for the washing machine are standard. You can get new ones to replace them. They are 1/2 Iron Pipe Size by 1/2 hose adapter. (dont get the 1/4 turn boilder drains, they usually end up leaking.) But if you want to redo the whole verticle line pex is simple. You can rent a pex crimper tool from home depot. Pvc isnt legal to use indoors, specially for hot line. Above 120°F it will eat the pipes. If you must use CPVC but that pipe will cause issues in 10-15 years in my experience. So if you drop down a 1/2 male IPS by 1/2 pex adapter you then have to cut in a Tee on each pex line and adapt it to a pex female adapter to attach the boiler drains. Then below the tee attach a Straight pex stop (it will crimp right on to the pex line.) It will give you another ball valve to hook up your 3/8 x 1/2 faucet supply). If you don't feel comfortable about messing with pipe wrenches just replace the boiler drains and then below the tee put in a 1/2 galvy nipple install a 1/2 IPS angle or strap stop (this will be 1/2 ips by 3/8 compression). Remember to tape and dope all the threads going into a IPS thread. You don't have to tape or dope the supply's to a faucet from a angle stop becuase of there rubber gasket.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2011 00:09
|
|
|
Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Sounds like just a bad thermal couple, you can always try a ten dollar part to see if its just that or the gas valve itself. Thanks, I'll try and suggest that to the handyman when he comes around again.. which hopefully will be soon, because the drat thing just went out again.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2011 03:27
|
|
|
Mizufusion posted:Thanks, I'll try and suggest that to the handyman when he comes around again.. which hopefully will be soon, because the drat thing just went out again. If he doesn't know, the thermal couple is what connects to the gas valve and goes into the burner. With the heat of the Pilot light, it creates enough electrical current to keep the gas valve open. The thermal couple comes in a coil, if you over bend it then bend it back it fucks it up and you will ruin it. So uncoil it till you get the right 90° + or- angle to fit the water heater. Another sign to tell a gas valve is bad is if the water heater doesnt keep temp. It will short fire itself. So when running the tub on hot all the way. You will get 120+ F water for like 5-10 minutes. But it will drop drastically down. This means the R factor is not being met by the gas valve. So it basicly thinks the water is hot enough but the entire tank is not up to temp. At that point you replace the water heater or gas valve if you can actually find one. Temp drops like that can also be caused by a dip tube so that's not always the case. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 05:30 on Apr 29, 2011 |
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2011 05:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 16:30 |
|
|
I'm moving into an industrial space whose only plumbing is this: I'd like to relocate the big shop sink, and add a toilet, bathroom sink, kitchen sink, and possibly a shower stall to the sewage line there. Am I going to need to add in a vent stack along with all that stuff? I've done plumbing before, but always on places that already had complete systems and I was just adding one or two things. I may end up getting a real plumber to do this, but I'd like to know what all will be involved. Thanks
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2011 15:52
|
|
