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Mcqueen posted:Wouldn't the Alfa 164 points be the same as the early 9000? Should be pretty close. All I know is there's a bit of wear on one of the wheels and as soon as it gets on my driveway, I want to stick it up in the air and see if I can identiy anything. Thanks.  Mcqueen posted:http://thesaabsite.com/93/93gasshocks.htm They're almost, but not exactly the same. There really shouldn't be any issue - except for the mounting points. The two I listed 'have the proper mounting points'.
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Apr 5, 2011 00:56
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I've never owned a normal 9-3... The fitting the exhaust guy put on the blue viggen is about an inch too long. Now my cat wont fit. gently caress yeah, I LOVE CARS!
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Apr 5, 2011 01:26
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Someone, call for an intervention, please. Got this finally (mechanically great; not TCS, interior thrashed):  Looking at this one (no title, proper gen, runs but bad fuel/fuel pump and ABS system is messed) to replace interior and a few exterior bits on the talladega  Darn it, the above is an 86. Not a heck of a lot I can do with an 86. 
Viggen fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Apr 10, 2011 |
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Apr 10, 2011 00:22
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Ok, 1991 Saab 9000 Turbo (as above). This is completely an LH system (Non Trionic), so I'm completely flying blind. I've got SRS on non-collision lit (after 10 minutes), but I don't know how I can test which airbag may be out of spec. The previous owner said it didn't do that until he took it to his mechanic last week to see where this phantom 2A drain was coming from. I have not yet been able to speak with the mechanic to see what he has pulled apart, but my guess is that it's either driver, or passenger airbag.  Also, an antilock sensor is throwing fault codes, and I don't wanna mess with all 4 blindly - assuming I can not easily get a reading from the not-user-accessible computer, any ideas where to start?
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Apr 11, 2011 22:59
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Update/Crossposting this to get thread back to the main page. Saturday AM: Popped ECU to test if ECU is causing the parasitic 2A drain. Found this mess from the aftermarket stereo (that was installed in the ashtray area):  Groovy. Rewired/taped, fixed a couple of live ignition lines that were just hanging blind. Saturday Afternoon: Driver's side rear door will not lock/unlock - manual locking mechanism does not work; decided to attack that.  A $0.02 broken piece of plastic. Awesome. Replaced with a matching bolt, nut, and 3 washers. Not quite as easy to pop, but works 100% now. Setup a simple little passthrough on a cheap ohmmeter to see how bad the drain is. Dropped significantly. Seems to be maybe .25A now. Time to get rid of the ugly ASAs on the 9-5! Below has the circa-2000ish 7 spoke BBS alloys on the front w/ saab cap; rear is one of the hated ASAs. Yes, all of those dumb bolts are false.  Sunday AM: Accidentally kicked the wipers on the 9000 while reaching for ohmmeter. SCREEEET-SCREET. It fell apart right there; it was working yesterday. Oh, ok, there's another $6. At least it didn't damage anything - including the windshield. Replaced both with spare 21" cheapies. Tested. Nuts had backed off magically in the heat, so driver's side flopped to side and stayed there. Passenger side was weak. Aligned, and tightened. At least the drat washers worked without missing with them.  Ok, it's time to tackle the other rear door. Managed to get it all apart, except for one F-n support screw. Ended up stripping the poo poo out of a few oversized torx bits, then just yanked the living gently caress out of the rest of the already-disconnected door panel when I was unable to get the bolt to release even after drilling a hole straight through it. Got it stripped out well enough to replace. v vDiscovered that child lock mechanism was not attached; it was broken and blocking the entire locking mechanism. Cleaned and lubed up with lithium, and worked it like a $5 whore. Replaced misformed/snapped manual locking mechanism plastic with another bolt/washer combo. Brought door panel into house to expoxy broken mount. Sunday Afternoon: Cranked it, battery dropped to 10.4V initially, back to 11.8V idling - just like it did w/o any juice leaking. Groovy. Still have ECU disconnected; hoping that it was one of the live wires that was doing it, but if not, probably ECU keeping a fan running. Glorious. Voodoo incantations and blood offerings have not yet made the SRS warning go away; tried to jump pin 3 (LH 2.4 system) to ground to get any codes, but not getting dick or poo poo.
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Apr 18, 2011 03:11
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Viggen posted:Found this mess from the aftermarket stereo (that was installed in the ashtray area): I think this is standard bill of fare. Saab people can't wrap their minds around stereo wiring. Mine was a rats nest of clipped wires and poo poo too so I had to unfuck the previous wiring job if I didn't want a horendous hiss and going from absolutely quiet to gently caress off loud between volume level 2&3. The Alpine head unit goes up to vol 30.. Yeah.. Like that was going to work..
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Apr 18, 2011 15:34
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keykey posted:I think this is standard bill of fare. Shockingly, the antenna WAS wired to raise/lower properly, and you didn't get shocked (  )/car stall when it did so, so I figured it was better off than it was.Any idea how I can test an ACC to see if it's keeping fans running even when it shouldn't? The Haynes I have isn't so good, and I don't want to send email/wait forever on forums/chat. Also, I loving hate Saab transmission gearing. I love the cars, but give me a goddamn break. Why even bother having first if it's run out at 10mph? If you don't care about the clutch, might as well just burn it in second to get a decent launch.
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Apr 18, 2011 16:02
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What exactly does your ACC fan do? Does it not work or does it only work at 1 speed or just on all the time?
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Apr 18, 2011 16:18
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keykey posted:What exactly does your ACC fan do? Does it not work or does it only work at 1 speed or just on all the time? I'm relatively sure that it's keeping a fan on, I have a 2A drain and a grinding noise from where I used-to-assume was the clock, but after pulling ACC and keeping battery connected, clock works, and it's not noisy in the slightest. The ACC system itself /seems to work, but no matter what temperature you set it at, it will not blow hot unless you set it to 'HI'. Tried to run ACC2 diagnostics and didn't get a code back from it (yet). Sunroof started magically working today, though. Just went to pop it to vent as it baked in the sun so it didn't get too much worse and for the first time, it rolled all of the way back. 
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Apr 18, 2011 16:39
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Is it the mini in-dash sensor fan that is making noise? They run for a few minutes after key off and make noise if their lube dries up. It could be related to the temp control too, since if it is not moving any air, the sensor will be as warm as inside the dash and the system will think that the cabin is that temperature.
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Apr 19, 2011 01:17
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Mario posted:Is it the mini in-dash sensor fan that is making noise? They run for a few minutes after key off and make noise if their lube dries up. It could be related to the temp control too, since if it is not moving any air, the sensor will be as warm as inside the dash and the system will think that the cabin is that temperature. I do believe that it is - but it's not shutting off (current theory), and that's causing the constant 2A drain. Once I plug ACC in, the phantom noise comes back and I am trying to be careful with the dash since it's split in so many parts that it's likely to mostly fall apart on me if I attempt to do so without assistance - the door panels sure as hell tried to.
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Apr 19, 2011 02:11
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I have a narrow garage, and in haste from hail, just drove in and dragged my rear quarter across the garage door edge in an effort to dodge my bike. Also in my haste, while backing up to save paint, proceeded to rip my mirror off at the base. To say I am mad at myself would be WILD understatement. I'm used to assholes doing hit and runs, running their shopping carts into me, but I cant say I've ever ruined my own pristine car by failing to judge depth. I could be more angry, but I will be drinking myself into oblivion. Edit: Also, 2A sounds a bit heavy for a small fan and sensor?
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Apr 19, 2011 03:16
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Mcqueen posted:Edit: Also, 2A sounds a bit heavy for a small fan and sensor? Sorry about your car, man. I did the same thing once with a Ford - but I was just pissed at it and KICKED it out of the garage, ripping off a mirror in the process. Guess the brakes weren't good enough for the engine work BEFORE replacing them. You should hear the drat thing when it's running. Not sure if that's /all/ that's running, but just glad it wasn't ECU doing it right now. Left everything disco'd for the moment.. and the bastard decided to start missing a little at idle after getting warmed up nice and proper. If it's going to cost me new NGKs and a DIC, I'm gonna kick it's rear end. Had to change IDM to DIC. It's a DIC after all.
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Apr 19, 2011 04:22
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First, I have to say congrats to Viggen. I love those 9000s. On a side note, I saw the one I sold to someone I thought was a SAAB enthusiast. It was covered in mud and ragged to poo poo.  I do have a question, however. Even though I know a good deal bout the classic SAABs, I don't know very much about the GM/Opel SAABs. I'm looking at a 2003 9-5 Linear Sport wagon with 52K on the clock. The Autocheck looks clean and shows only 1 owner, so that's encouraging. One thing I did read about is problems with sludging on these engines. Is that a widespread concern (and how hard is it to update the PCV)? Also, is there anything else I should watch out for on this baby?
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Apr 19, 2011 04:34
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Francis Baconator posted:First, I have to say congrats to Viggen. I love those 9000s. On a side note, I saw the one I sold to someone I thought was a SAAB enthusiast. It was covered in mud and ragged to poo poo. It's growing on me. It needs work, but I just love these bastards. Still kicking myself on the like-new 89T that got away. Always another day, and another few hundred hours of labor. Francis Baconator posted:One thing I did read about is problems with sludging on these engines. Is that a widespread concern (and how hard is it to update the PCV)? Also, is there anything else I should watch out for on this baby? Make drat sure that car has had it's oil changed every 10k, if not sooner. If it's on, oh, change #2, you do not want that car. The easiest way to tell is to bend up a wire coat hanger about 11" or so and (hide the hook back), and slide it up the drain and rub it along the underside of the pickup. If there's sludge, you'll bring some out. You can tell that you've had the update if you see this:  If the car hasn't had it done, keep in mind this fix has been around for over 5 years now. Doing the PCV update is not difficult. It's so simple, a SAAB caveman can do it. Nystral posted:Does anyone know where I can get the plastic bit that covers the wires to the side view mirror for a 9-3 SS? Saab USA Parts.com shows nothing and I'm not sure where to find a part #. My shade tree mechanic is wonderfully cheap, he just has a habit of loosing trim pieces Uhm... not sure which specific part you're asking about. Do you see it here? Viggen fucked around with this message at 05:12 on Apr 19, 2011 |
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Apr 19, 2011 04:52
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Does anyone know where I can get the plastic bit that covers the wires to the side view mirror for a 9-3 SS? Saab USA Parts.com shows nothing and I'm not sure where to find a part #. My shade tree mechanic is wonderfully cheap, he just has a habit of loosing trim pieces  Stupid GM window regulators (I've replaced 3 out of the 4 so far!)
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Apr 19, 2011 04:59
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Viggen, This is a long shot but do you live in CO by chance?
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Apr 19, 2011 21:26
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Fuelslt1 posted:Viggen, This is a long shot but do you live in CO by chance? I'm afraid that I do not; you must be thinking of some other SAAB freak.
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Apr 19, 2011 21:33
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Nystral posted:Does anyone know where I can get the plastic bit that covers the wires to the side view mirror for a 9-3 SS? Saab USA Parts.com shows nothing and I'm not sure where to find a part #. My shade tree mechanic is wonderfully cheap, he just has a habit of loosing trim pieces http://www.thesaabsite.com/93/93mirrors03on.htm number 2?
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Apr 19, 2011 22:26
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Mcqueen posted:http://www.thesaabsite.com/93/93mirrors03on.htm No on the inside between the door jam and the window. What you've linked has a plug on it and wires from the car run into this piece. I've trawled through that site and I can't seem to find a name for it.
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Apr 20, 2011 00:51
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Nystral posted:No on the inside between the door jam and the window. What you've linked has a plug on it and wires from the car run into this piece. I've trawled through that site and I can't seem to find a name for it. 
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Apr 20, 2011 01:44
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Well, since fixing the door, I can now place the noise properly with the panels off. The rear door defrosters (only) are stuck on, and I can not turn it off with the ACC.  I rev'd the gently caress out of it (after it warmed) to get it to start missing again. So, once it was all hot and burny, I had the PCV Bushing disintegrate in my hand while I was checking hoses. Bastard was almost old enough to drink, but nooooo - had to lose his poo poo right there. Thank god it wasn't sucking, or it would have had a nice load of plastic. $3.99 part on EEuroParts, with $10 shipping - like that's all I bought. I need a cheaper/less painful hobby. Like heroin addiction.
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Apr 20, 2011 03:34
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Replumb the entire car with copper tubing. Steampunk 9000.
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Apr 20, 2011 16:14
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Mcqueen posted:Replumb the entire car with copper tubing. Steampunk 9000. AI > How I Added a Zero to My 900: SAAB Thread > So, I hit a bump and now have no car, and third degree burns You seem to know a hell of a lot more about this than a shadetree as myself, Mcqueen/Mario, any idea where I can get good schematics to see what/where the drat rear defrosters run through? I'm hoping there's some thermal switch that went bad - replacing the ACC in the beast is gonna be esspensive.. atop of the rest of the crap. I know there's basically nothing usable for WIS w/ the 9K, and my Haynes schematics are kind of worthless trying to track that down - it just has magical battery->alarm->ignition type of logic boxes.
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Apr 20, 2011 16:46
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113? http://www.saabscene.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=206194&mode=threaded&pid=1108188
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Apr 20, 2011 18:52
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Well, I'm pissed. Here's a word of advice: never let anyone else drive your car unless you are sitting in the passenger seat and trust them. I took my 9-3 to a car detail place, one of those places where they run it through a machine wash, then dry, polish, and detail it by hand. Apparently the poo poo-for-brains fuckmonkeys at the car wash couldn't figure out how to get my car into reverse, so they just forced the shifter until the lockout gate broke off and they could shift it. If I had noticed this at the time I would have ripped them a new one. I pulled up the shifter boot today and retrieved the broken plastic gate. How easy is this to fix? I could probably just superglue it back into place, but is the job easy enough to do the right way?
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Apr 21, 2011 00:07
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Petekill posted:Well, I'm pissed. Here's a word of advice: never let anyone else drive your car unless you are sitting in the passenger seat and trust them. Now would be a perfect time to install a short shifter from GS. Just saying.
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Apr 21, 2011 02:48
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Viggen posted:I know there's basically nothing usable for WIS w/ the 9K, and my Haynes schematics are kind of worthless trying to track that down - it just has magical battery->alarm->ignition type of logic boxes.  216 is the ACC unit, 500 is the ICE module. The ICE is what really controls the relay (113) by grounding pin 35 to turn it on. Pin 31 on the ACC reads this voltage and turns on/off the icon on the display. I assume that manual operation of the defroster is controlled through the other two wires between the ACC and ICE. H- components are connectors, J- components are just test points (I think). Does the icon on the ACC turn off when you try to turn it off manually (but the element keeps drawing power)? Could be a stuck relay. This is apparently a test connector somewhere (I have no idea where it is found on the 900 even, let alone a 9000). 
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Apr 21, 2011 06:41
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Mcqueen posted:113? This looks promising. Wasn't entirely sure how lateral it may be since I know there were many other changes between LH and T5.. Mario posted:This is apparently a test connector somewhere (I have no idea where it is found on the 900 even, let alone a 9000). The only thing that looks like that on this 1991 9000 plugs directly into the back of the ACC. When it is disconnected, the ACC is 'gone', but so is the fan issue. I was/am hoping to tear behind the glove compartment to get at the relays this wekeend, but given the amount of wind/rain we've had in the last day, it seems somewhat unlikely - this weekend. Thanks guys.
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Apr 21, 2011 15:27
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Still nowhere on the ACC issue - since I have somewhere to go next, that's sated in my mind - but: I think the APC is cutting boost because of this magical miss that is occurring. It looks like there's a little 'blip' on the turbo gauge on acceleration. I haven't tested, but I'm pretty sure that compression is good (it wasn't being this much of a bitch before), and this gives me a good excuse to change out the sparks when I do the oil; figure I might as well do the thermostat as well (not sure how long ago it was done, but is a common part anyhow). It's running on 91, but def has issues with the drat ethanol; I noticed the difference when I filled it at Texaco. Sure idles rougher w/ the PCV blocked off. Blah.
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Apr 22, 2011 20:52
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Petekill posted:Well, I'm pissed. Here's a word of advice: never let anyone else drive your car unless you are sitting in the passenger seat and trust them. Go back and bitch at the place to have it fixed properly?
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Apr 22, 2011 23:08
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So if I bought a replacement fob here: http://www.saabusaparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_25&products_id=652 where the gently caress do I get it programmed? It's a 2006 9-3, so it was a GM product, but can say, a Chevy dealer do it?
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Apr 27, 2011 04:38
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Not to push my stuff in here, but it's the saab thread, so I figured some of you guys might need parts. I am parting out my 96 9000 Aero, it's got lots of good parts still, but the motor is shot. I have a post on the most recent page of the AI marketplace thread. If this is not cool to post in here, let me know and Ill edit it out.
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Apr 27, 2011 04:44
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GD_American posted:So if I bought a replacement fob here: A chevy dealer would have an authorized tech2, but you need the saab software. They can DL the software from TIS, so it's just a matter of them bothering (and knowing how to do it, which may be the bigger problem). edit: just do it soon, if you lose the other key then they can't clone you another one and you have to spend $1500 on a new alarm module. astropika fucked around with this message at 14:57 on Apr 27, 2011 |
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Apr 27, 2011 14:36
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astropika posted:A chevy dealer would have an authorized tech2, but you need the saab software. Pretty much came here to post this, nearly verbatim. omgitstheinternet posted:Not to push my stuff in here, but it's the saab thread, so I figured some of you guys might need parts. I am parting out my 96 9000 Aero, it's got lots of good parts still, but the motor is shot.  Here I sit broken all hearted, got a gen2 being parted.What've you got left? The biggest issue I have is my @#$@ 9K needs all of the heavy/huge stuff, and it's LH so I can't use a heck of a lot under the I do need a headliner and wouldn't mind a spare alt.. just to have. Do you have the dash apart? Either my speedo, or the connection somewhere between is slowly going; won't register until about 30mph.. and a stock head unit wouldn't be bad, either.
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Apr 27, 2011 15:47
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Viggen posted:
When one falls, another one gets to live, at least that's what I keep telling myself I sent you an email.
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Apr 27, 2011 18:57
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omgitstheinternet posted:I sent you an email. Sorry your 9K conked out - and that most people got to the stuff I wanted/need - sent a counter-reply w/ my Zip data if you want to give me an estimate. Thanks.
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Apr 27, 2011 19:52
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Finally got my camera back. Mirror off. A replacement in lightning blue is on its way from Goldwing. Only 100 bucks! Not bad.  This is far more serious, although it seems the plastic guard took the biggest hit, there is definitely bodywork that needs doing. I can't see this costing any less than 700 to repaint, the rear quarter is a huge panel on these cars.  I'm sorry car, here, enjoy a trickle charge and the warmth of a garage.  Anyone wanna come out to Seattle and help me change a clutch?
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Apr 28, 2011 01:54
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astropika posted:A chevy dealer would have an authorized tech2, but you need the saab software. whew you are a scholar and a gentleman
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Apr 28, 2011 05:27
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Just going to request we all pour one out for my departed Saab. Just over a week ago, this happened: Sitting at a red light, my light turns green and as I get to the end of the intersection some absentminded dude t-bones me. Here she was in better times:  Fantastic car. '99 model 9-3 SE (the first year of the rebadging), 5-speed with the HO turbo option. The electronic displays were starting to peter out and the top needed hydraulic fluid, but it was still a charmer after all the years. Needless to say, I'm really going to miss it.
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Apr 28, 2011 06:35
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