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stubblyhead posted:What would one call this thing? I've tried various permutations of concrete, bracket and anchor and can't find this on Lowe's or Home Depot's website. A concrete saddle is what I've heard them called on Holmes on Homes. Home Depot has a "pier support" bracket that is similar: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100323005/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 I didn't find anything similar at Lowe's website.
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Apr 27, 2011 01:53
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Just go to the store. There'll be a whole bunch of brackets with the deck building stuff, just in from the lumber.
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Apr 27, 2011 02:11
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Phummus posted:I'm installing a Basement Watchdog backup sump pump in my new (new to me) house. Did you install the backup pump's check valve backwards? Is it jammed shut?
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Apr 27, 2011 18:33
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CuddleChunks posted:A concrete saddle is what I've heard them called on Holmes on Homes. I saw that too, not sure if it would work for my application though. The link jeremiah johnson posted led me to the correct name, which is post base. They carry them at both Lowe's and Home Depot, and are more expensive than one might expect.
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Apr 27, 2011 18:57
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I'm putting a bed together my brother had in storage. Parts were missing, and I contacted the manufacturer to get the parts I thought I needed. Underneath the mattress goes 4 wooden boards with holes in the middle, as mattress supports. Part A (the company sent me) go on the floor. The board goes between parts B and C, then C screws into B. That's the adjustable part, screwing C up/down into B. Somehow B is supposed to attach to A (the floor cup), but I have no idea how, and I may be missing a part. Anybody familiar with these? 
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Apr 27, 2011 23:11
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The backsplash in my kitchen is made up of what seems to be unglazed ceramic tile in a sort-of linen/pale terracotta colour. Its porous and rustic-looking but it doesn't go well with the colours I picked for the kitchen. Would I be able to paint over it? If so, can I safely paint over the grout lines and is there a specific type of paint I should be using?
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Apr 28, 2011 01:18
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What makes Ice from Ice Machines smell bad? I have lived in a lot of different places, and this is not the first time an icemaker has made smelly ice. Usually I just avoid it, but this time I would really like to fix it. What can I do?
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Apr 28, 2011 02:36
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CadavericSpasm posted:The backsplash in my kitchen is made up of what seems to be unglazed ceramic tile in a sort-of linen/pale terracotta colour. Its porous and rustic-looking but it doesn't go well with the colours I picked for the kitchen. Would I be able to paint over it? If so, can I safely paint over the grout lines and is there a specific type of paint I should be using? Even better would be to stain the tile. You could mix pigment with a carrier or you could even water down latex paint Painting it wouldn't be a problem though for the tile but the paint you choose will have to be able to stick to the masonry. Maybe a primer would be best first
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Apr 28, 2011 02:53
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Corla Plankun posted:What makes Ice from Ice Machines smell bad? It picks up smells from the fridge, I think. You could try thoroughly washing the fridge and freezer, then putting a bowl/box of baking soda in both compartments. And making sure any food in there is
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Apr 28, 2011 03:15
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particle409 posted:I'm putting a bed together my brother had in storage. Parts were missing, and I contacted the manufacturer to get the parts I thought I needed. Underneath the mattress goes 4 wooden boards with holes in the middle, as mattress supports. Part B is called an insert nut. Look inside it where you insert the screw, there should be a 6 sized indentation where you use a hex key a.k.a. Allen wrench to screw the insert nut into the hole in part A. You may or may not be missing the hex key to turn it. Usually they're included with the parts bag, but if not you can pick one up at any hardware store. Take the nut with you, it might be some weird metric size. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Apr 28, 2011 |
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Apr 28, 2011 05:33
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So I live in a tiny apartment (college yay) and I'm trying to sort out my kitchen a bit more. I'd like to move my myriad of cookie sheets out of my cabinets and replace the space with, I dunno, something else. My plan is to just attach some big fuckoff magnets to the wall with command strips and then slap the sheets on the big fuckoff magnets. Problem is, I'm not sure where to get myself a handful of big fuckoff magnets. Hook me up, dudes. e: I can do other stuff with magnets on my walls too, but I need magnets. Would like to add shelves but the walls are loving concrete so I can't really drill into them without wrecking a few bits and probably burning out my old-rear end drill. Sockser fucked around with this message at 06:57 on Apr 28, 2011 |
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Apr 28, 2011 06:54
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My crummy apartment complex was built in the 70s. The water shutoffs are per building, not per unit, so when one of the ancient faucets or shower heads explodes, the entire building goes without water for however long it takes to fix it. Running my tiny microwave and my blow dryer at the same time is hilariously enough to trip a breaker. Obviously I doubt you could build today with that sort of setup, but how would one look up the building code and/or find out what codes can be grandfathered? Is it necessary to buy the book or is it available for reference from the city?
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Apr 28, 2011 07:07
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NancyPants posted:My crummy apartment complex was built in the 70s. The water shutoffs are per building, not per unit, so when one of the ancient faucets or shower heads explodes, the entire building goes without water for however long it takes to fix it. Running my tiny microwave and my blow dryer at the same time is hilariously enough to trip a breaker. The building code is available at the library, and stuff can be "grandfathered" forever. If nobody's doing major repair or upgrade requiring a permit, a building never has to be reinspected in most places.
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Apr 28, 2011 12:22
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NancyPants posted:My crummy apartment complex was built in the 70s. The water shutoffs are per building, not per unit, so when one of the ancient faucets or shower heads explodes, the entire building goes without water for however long it takes to fix it. Running my tiny microwave and my blow dryer at the same time is hilariously enough to trip a breaker. You can usually find building codebooks at your local library. The most recent NEC version is 2011, it has a whole section about multi-unit dwellings. Sockser posted:So I live in a tiny apartment (college yay) and I'm trying to sort out my kitchen a bit more. I'd like to move my myriad of cookie sheets out of my cabinets and replace the space with, I dunno, something else. Aren't most cookie sheets aluminum and wouldn't stick to magnets?
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Apr 28, 2011 12:28
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Corla Plankun posted:What makes Ice from Ice Machines smell bad? Bacteria. Run a weak cleaning solution through the system every once in a while, shudder at the black gunge that comes out. Check your machines manual first though. Sockser - where are you & did you check ebay? Also, google magnetic knife holders, they may be cheaper & look better
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Apr 28, 2011 16:51
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Cakefool posted:Bacteria. Run a weak cleaning solution through the system every once in a while, shudder at the black gunge that comes out. Check your machines manual first though. Yup, bacteria. Cakefool is right. If it disassembles consider boiling the tubing once a year or something. e: Or replacing.
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Apr 28, 2011 17:02
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NancyPants posted:Running my tiny microwave and my blow dryer at the same time is hilariously enough to trip a breaker. Microwaves and hair dryers are both pretty high powered devices. Microwaves are generally in the 1000W range, and I was very surprised to learn that my wife's hair dryer is like 1850W. If the two outlets in question are on the same 15A circuit, then that's definitely enough to trip the breaker. Sure, microwaves are supposed to have a dedicated circuit, as is the bathroom, but that may not have been the case when the building was constructed. Shoot, my house was built in the 40s and my kitchen and front of the living room are all on one circuit, and both bedrooms plus garage are on another.
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Apr 28, 2011 17:22
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Phummus posted:I'm installing a Basement Watchdog backup sump pump in my new (new to me) house. That's probably not a good idea, and probably not to code. Why not just drain the condensate into your sump hole (if that's allowed in your jurisdiction) and pump it out with your sump, using the now-former condensate line to the outside? This reduces the complexity of the system (check valves) and reduces the chance that you're going to end up with a clogged check valve causing problems for you when you least expect it.
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Apr 28, 2011 17:29
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stubblyhead posted:Microwaves and hair dryers are both pretty high powered devices. Microwaves are generally in the 1000W range, and I was very surprised to learn that my wife's hair dryer is like 1850W. If the two outlets in question are on the same 15A circuit, then that's definitely enough to trip the breaker. Sure, microwaves are supposed to have a dedicated circuit, as is the bathroom, but that may not have been the case when the building was constructed. Shoot, my house was built in the 40s and my kitchen and front of the living room are all on one circuit, and both bedrooms plus garage are on another. That's what I mean. They should be on separate circuits, but they're not. And the circuit list/diagram inside the breaker box is all written in pencil. Consummate professionals.
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Apr 28, 2011 21:14
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Cakefool posted:Sockser - where are you & did you check ebay? Also, google magnetic knife holders, they may be cheaper & look better re: knife holders. Considered, but I figured there was a markup attached to the name "magnetic knife holder" as opposed to "magnet" Doesn't need to look pretty, there'll be a cookie sheet covering it
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Apr 28, 2011 21:42
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Sockser posted:So I live in a tiny apartment (college yay) and I'm trying to sort out my kitchen a bit more. I'd like to move my myriad of cookie sheets out of my cabinets and replace the space with, I dunno, something else. Crack open some dld hard drives Be careful not to crush any fingers
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Apr 29, 2011 02:53
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We have a closet that has some kitchen-style cabinets mounted to the wall. I am trying to remove those cabinets. I have unscrewed it at the top and the bottom, and I have also removed a few screws attaching the two cabinets to each other. The strange thing is, these things are still stuck to the wall. They won't budge at all. Is it possible they are glued in some fashion? In everything I have read in a brief googling about cabinet installation and removal, there is no mention of adhesives. Am I so dumb that I can't make something fall off a wall after removing all of its screws?!
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Apr 29, 2011 19:31
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Associate Christ
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If the cabinets do not need to survive, get Viking on them bitches. If they do, what the gently caress man?
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Apr 29, 2011 21:44
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Kaluza-Klein posted:We have a closet that has some kitchen-style cabinets mounted to the wall. I am trying to remove those cabinets. the cabinets in my kitchen are caulked to the wall for whatever reason. So, it's possible.
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Apr 29, 2011 21:45
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Giving them a couple good knocks with a mallet set them free. They had stuck to the paint. I was hoping to have a nice surface underneath  . It's only a closet, I guess.Thanks guys.
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Apr 29, 2011 22:57
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My apartment is on the first floor, and there is no exterior light. I want to paint the edge of the concrete stairs white so they're more visible in the dark, but google has failed me (I only get results for either wooden stairs, or staining concrete for colour). I know enough not to use glossy paint because it'd be slippery, but other than that I have no clue. Any suggestions? Could I just use house paint with some sand mixed in to make it a bit grippy?
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Apr 30, 2011 01:11
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There are special epoxy paints for concrete. Big box stores or your local mom and pop should have it Best to wear a respirator when you're applying; fumes are strong
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Apr 30, 2011 01:25
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Dead Alice posted:Any suggestions? Could I just use house paint with some sand mixed in to make it a bit grippy? I don't know how well this would work with house paint, but any resin-based coating (urethane, epoxy) would be great with some coarse sand mixed in.
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Apr 30, 2011 01:26
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Dead Alice posted:My apartment is on the first floor, and there is no exterior light. I want to paint the edge of the concrete stairs white so they're more visible in the dark, but google has failed me (I only get results for either wooden stairs, or staining concrete for colour). You'd better talk to the landlord first before painting up their property.
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Apr 30, 2011 06:55
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Go to the paint store and buy Curb Paint or Parking Lot Paint. It's very bright, reflective, and slightly grippy. You can get easily yellow, red, green, blue, and white. I know they sell it by the pint, quart, and gallon. A pint has enough paint in it to paint a Handicapped parking spot, which is two lines and the curb in front.
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May 1, 2011 01:13
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sixide posted:I don't know how well this would work with house paint, but any resin-based coating (urethane, epoxy) would be great with some coarse sand mixed in. House paint and sand works just fine,
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May 1, 2011 01:40
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Is there a good way to dehumidify a room with the following stipulations: 1. Isn't turning the AC on because girlfriend is cold blooded as gently caress. 2. Isn't loud because I sleep like a meth head caught in an artillery barrage. My apartment is like, the english basement part of the complex building, so it's ground floor and built into a hillside. Great for most aspects like noise and temperature, but it rains a lot here and I'm seriously concerned about things growing in my stuff, or rotting my clothes. The plug-in dehumidifier I remember from my parents' basement was loud as hell and probably expensive.
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May 1, 2011 05:49
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Just go shopping for a new dehumidifier, cheap ones will be loud, ' silent' ones will cost more but be worth it.
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May 1, 2011 10:27
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Also electronic (Peltier effect) dehumidifiers are very quiet, though your pocketbook will hate it come time for the electric bill.
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May 1, 2011 19:26
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Stew Man Chew posted:Is there a good way to dehumidify a room with the following stipulations: I have a dehumidifier I got from Sears a few years ago. It does make some noise, but it's white noise that is easy to tune out--it's hard to hear from the other side of a closed door even. Mine has a timer of sorts where it will run in three hour on-off cycles. It was around $100 if memory serves.
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May 1, 2011 19:40
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Stew Man Chew posted:Is there a good way to dehumidify a room with the following stipulations: for cheapness, you could try http://www.damprid.com/ they sell it at HD and Lowes in more humid areas. Its just pellets that attract moisture, so its silent
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May 2, 2011 02:55
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axia posted:for cheapness, you could try It'd be extremely creepy if the pellets were noisy. I imagine they'd hum annoying songs. I don't know what it costs at the stores and that site doesn't seem to have prices listed anywhere, but you could get bulk silica gel online that probably does the same thing. Non-indicating is cheaper than an indicating version, since the second version has chemicals added that change color when exposed to moisture.
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May 2, 2011 03:23
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Seems like silica/ other moisture absorbing products are a pretty poor substitute for a good dehumidifier. I mean, I have a dehumidifier running in my basement, set to shut off when the air hits 40% relative humidity, and some days it sucks up 5+ gallons of water. That's a loving lot of silica (or whatever) to be replacing every week. Granted I live in a fairly moist area of the country, but if you are wondering about this at all, then you probably do too. Just go to home depot or something and buy a dehumidifier, go for a silent one, and return it if it's too loud (check their return policy first). I got like a $150 one from amazon, and it has made my previously disgusting basement into a really nice area of the house.
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May 2, 2011 05:59
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Most probably are a poor substitute for an actual dehumidifier, but I'm willing to bet that silica, with the cheaper bulk option and the ability to absorb up to 40% of its weight in water is probably a better choice than a commercial (probably silica anyway) product. I bet you could get a dehumidifier that isn't too noisy and doesn't cost a ton. Appliances tend to get better and cheaper as technology improves.
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May 2, 2011 06:16
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NancyPants posted:is probably a better choice than a commercial (probably silica anyway) product. Yeah, I'm definitely with you there, much better to buy it bulk than pay for it in tiny labeled packages.
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May 2, 2011 06:24
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