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PaintVagrant posted:GW super glue has a brush? That seems like a terrible, terrible idea. Brush-on plastic cement is awesome, though. As is applying it with capillary tubes
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Apr 29, 2011 03:12
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GW Super Glue Thin has a brush on applicator, like finger nail polish. If you glue together something with paint on it, paint gets in the glue. Old guys and people with shaky hands love the stuff. The P3 and Gale Force 9 super glues are the same as the old GW super glue. So is the Army Painter. Testor's makes one of the best plastic glues with an awesome applicator.
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Apr 29, 2011 04:15
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The GW brush is kinda neat when it works because it isn't viscous at all, its like a couple of steps removed from water. If you leave it out then the brush will stick its bristles together, but sealing it closed again will allow the solvents to do their work. The brush doesn't reach to the bottom, but that doesn't matter because you cant even get halfway done with a pot without it drying out and going gloopy and unusable or the seal sticking itself to the lid. And I'm really loving careful about my glue. These days I went the opposite way and use the highly viscous, almost gel like Gorilla Glue. It allows more control as it doesn't flow, so you can put a spot where you need it. If its too tight to get the nozzle in, squeeze a little out on a tile or something and transfer it over via a needle, dipping it in the droplet to get a little bead of glue on the end. You have to hold it in place for a little bit longer than the GW stuff, but the joint is solid. The other day I intentionally broke apart my Exorcist cab and I had to get a lever in there, I couldn't do it by hand. 
Miles O'Brian fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Apr 29, 2011 |
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Apr 29, 2011 04:23
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I just bought a blister of the Gorilla Super Glue this week and it really does own.
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Apr 29, 2011 04:26
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Flipswitch posted:This Games workshop super glue is a bit of a pain in the rear end to use as the crappy little brush with it is poo poo and has dried up, anyone got any good suggestions for other super glue brands to use? I ditched the plastic glue for the Revell plastic glue with the little point end and that poo poo is great stuff, are there any other similar types for super glue? Get some Zap-a-Gap, it sets pretty fast and rock hard, it's just a squeeze bottle and i'd recommend wearing rubber gloves when doing fiddly work with it, if you get it onto your fingers it's going to be there for at least a day or two.
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Apr 29, 2011 05:10
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Call me weird but with any superglue I have never had the suck to fingers problem Yes it has gotten all over them but I can't stop picking at it until it is all gone. Takes less than 5 mins to turn a big spill into a pile of skin scrapes on my work area. Maybe this is why my folks were concerned I would pick my surgery wounds.
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Apr 29, 2011 06:03
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will blow your mind.
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 Loctite is the poo poo. Anything can be stuck together and it only takes like 5 seconds to set and the blue parts on the bottle squeeze in to dispense it. And it leaves no regular superglue residue.
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Apr 29, 2011 06:34
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Haruharuharuko posted:
Having used this for years and having just applied a full bottle of this stuff in the last three hours, I can say conclusively that the last part of that is false, that it will add $4.50 to whatever it is to whatever kit it is you're building, and that it is totally worth it. Loctite is the poo poo and wow there are so many walls in here. Like, I never realized just how many walls there are. They're everywhere.
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Apr 29, 2011 09:43
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Those huge Loctite plastic 'bottles' contain a microscopic metal tube of 3g/0.1oz of glue, making their cost per volume even more hilarious than GW glue. It really is the tiniest little tube of glue you've ever seen, like a doll house glue tube. I found this out when the twist collar thing failed to pop the seal on a new bottle, so I had to hack the plastic casing apart to be able to use the glue. I switched to Zap-a-Gap because I was sick of buying new glue every six weeks, and I'm still using the same bottle I got ages ago (not sure how long exactly but at least 18 months). The only downer is the bottle cap is kinda screwed now so I keep having to drill out the scary accretions inside it to close it up! I do miss Loctite's gel-type glue though. I want to try that Gorilla stuff, anyone know if you can you get it in the UK, or an equivalent that isn't in microtubes? (Also yes I know, the irony of complaining something is expensive in this hobby) vvv Edit: Looked this up, looks good. The Antics and Model Zone chains both carry Zap stuff so hopefully one or the other will stock the new gel/goo types soon. Shallow fucked around with this message at 10:30 on Apr 29, 2011 |
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Apr 29, 2011 10:02
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If you miss the gel type, Zap-a-Gap launched their own line of gel glues recently, nfi where you'd be able to get it over there.
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Apr 29, 2011 10:12
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Calico Noose posted:If you miss the gel type, Zap-a-Gap launched their own line of gel glues recently, nfi where you'd be able to get it over there. You, sir, have got my attention. Though I hate the ridiculously small bottles in the loctite containers, I also hate getting glue everywhere, and have found that loctite solved that problem with ingenuity of squeezy-bottle design and also not giving you much loving glue. How is Zap-a-Gap's gel applicator? Glue Talk ITT. SERIOUS Glue Talk. Let's get down to brass(we used to use before chemicals)tacks.
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Apr 29, 2011 10:19
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I've been kind of wanting to try this because rainbow-coloured superglues is hilarious: http://www.filla-glu.com/
Shallow fucked around with this message at 10:45 on Apr 29, 2011 |
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Apr 29, 2011 10:42
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Update on my Terminus. Again, all comments and crits welcomed. 
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Apr 29, 2011 11:13
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Liking the colour scheme, still loving baffled as to why Privateer thought that a gigantic imposing liche-robot should have puffy sleeves.
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Apr 29, 2011 12:31
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Lately for plastics, I've been using MicroMark SameStuff. It's a super thin, near-water consistency plastic cement that dries fast and has its own capillary action. It comes with a brush-on applicator, and you get a bunch of it, which is nice. Unlike other plastic cements or plastic glues, because it dries fast, if you get it on a part of a plastic model you didn't intend to glue by accident, just don't touch it and it will be fine; it will be very glossy, but you won't have a warped-looking mess on your hands.
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Apr 29, 2011 12:40
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So I had been looking for a Battlefoam 1520XL (they are out of stock until July) - and found that http://www.ccgarmory.com/ had one in stock. I ordered it. Has anyone ever heard of this place before? Are they a fairly reputable seller?
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Apr 29, 2011 13:35
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Tuxedo Jack posted:So I had been looking for a Battlefoam 1520XL (they are out of stock until July) - and found that http://www.ccgarmory.com/ had one in stock. I ordered it. Has anyone ever heard of this place before? Are they a fairly reputable seller? Actually yeah, I got some discontinued Reaper paints from them. Site looks shady but they are actually legit.
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Apr 29, 2011 14:00
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Shallow posted:
You can, I got mine from a hardware store called AK Timms here in the UK. A builder's merchant, the type of store tradesmen visit for their supplies. Mine is a large 15g pot, I've done my entire Sisters army and its still half full. You can also order online of course.
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Apr 29, 2011 14:40
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Tuxedo Jack posted:So I had been looking for a Battlefoam 1520XL (they are out of stock until July) - and found that http://www.ccgarmory.com/ had one in stock. I ordered it. Has anyone ever heard of this place before? Are they a fairly reputable seller? I've honestly never heard of Battlefoam before. So, uh, it's normal to spend ages plotting out custom trays, right? 
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Apr 29, 2011 15:15
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adamantium|wang posted:I've honestly never heard of Battlefoam before. Battlefoam is pretty legit. I've been meaning to jump to their system for a while, but haven't had the scratch. I recently expanded my armies to the point where I can't carry everything without using cardboard boxes and carrying trays willy nilly. I purchased GW sized trays for my small Citadel case to fit 3 Drop Pods and 4 Rhinos. Then I purchased the 1520XL from CCGArmory, and immediately made another Battlefoam order for my Tau and Empire armies that I've working on. Their foam is really quite nice. I like it better than Sabol or GW foam. A friend of mine uses Battlefoam in his cases (Dewalt Toolboxes) and it really is nice. I'm sure there are more goons who will speak up with their opinions, but I've been researching new cases for about a month, and after considering K&R, Sabol ArmyTransport and Battlefoam, the decision was clear for me.
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Apr 29, 2011 15:24
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WhiteOutMouse posted:blah blah ork trukkz Moar ork bits. Either strap some armor to the sides. Or I was thinking if you could use the tops of a drone as either additional armor or a circular shield for the Ork in the trukk. Might be fun. Also, I was thinking that it needs some red paint, or at least places where it looks like the orks damaged the devilfish when trying to make it work.
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Apr 29, 2011 15:31
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It's just between one of these, a strap and some custom trays, I could build a custom set up to protect all the dudes plus vehicles in an army for a cost comparable to the generic GW cases. Actually quite a bit less, seeing as how I would have to spread them out between 2 GW cases. Thank God I don't have that kind of money to spare right now. e: They want $62 to ship 5 trays to Aus. Is the foam high density? How much would one regular tray weigh roughly? ee: according to the USPS that's cheap 
adamantium|wang fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Apr 29, 2011 |
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Apr 29, 2011 15:34
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I decided to convert my previous attempt at a babbyphant into a tyrannofex. Here's the progress so far.  I need to make 1 more fin on the back and finish up the main cannon. The head will be angled up a little bit more in the final pose. Does anyone have any tips or advice on what I can use as the basis for the rupture/whatever cannon that would look nice and tyrannidy? The large barbed strangler barrels are too small for my liking. I have an old biovore that I could maybe cut up, but that's pretty thick and would be a huge amount of work to remove. I don't have enough confidence in my greenstuff skills to make something completely from scratch.
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Apr 29, 2011 16:15
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The Saddest Robot posted:I decided to convert my previous attempt at a babbyphant into a tyrannofex. Here's the progress so far. That poo poo's terrifying.
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Apr 29, 2011 16:57
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 What GW brown is a good step lighter than Calthan Brown? I used Graveyard Earth and it wasn't appreciably lighter once dry, and the difference totally vanished under a coat of Devlan Mud.
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Apr 29, 2011 17:53
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I usually go from Graveyard Earth to Vermin Brown. Not sure if there is something good in between? I finished my Fire Dragons:  I also painted test versions of the schemes for Banshees and Scorpions. Any thoughts/input?   It's not really impressive individually, but I have to say I like the way all the stuff is coming together in my display cabinet.
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Apr 29, 2011 20:10
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I really dig your eldar scheme, ashcans. I haven't seen any other armies that blend bone and gold like that.
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Apr 29, 2011 20:32
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I was wondering how you guys like to thin your paints. I have a wet palette, and I saw somewhere that you can just stir the paint on the wet palette to thin it. Does this work? Or do I need to use an eye dropper or something.
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Apr 29, 2011 21:36
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Dip your brush in water and mix the paint around is how I normally go about it.
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Apr 29, 2011 21:41
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Wondermoose posted:I was wondering how you guys like to thin your paints. I have a wet palette, and I saw somewhere that you can just stir the paint on the wet palette to thin it. Does this work? Or do I need to use an eye dropper or something. I use a wet palette and it thins most of my paints for me just fine. It obviously depends on how wet the towel below is though. When I first started using it I was surprised how thin the paint got. Almost too thin sometimes. ^^^^^ or this. I love my wet palette but just wetting the brush works fine too
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Apr 29, 2011 21:49
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Thanks pwpwpw! I have to say, going back through my old miniatures and redeeming my 10-year old paint jobs is pretty great. For thinning paints, if it's small amount (like I'm painting details) I'll just dip into some water. If I'm dealing with larger amounts of paint for a basecoat, multiple miniatures, I'll put the paint into a regular palette and use a dropper to add some water. I can't tell you what ratio I use though, it's definitely something I just intuit.
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Apr 29, 2011 22:45
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 CRAP ORKS Can't decide whether to put the second cross-piece in the back or not. It will look more solid but it'll be harder to stand dudes in there, and maybe it shouldn't look more solid. (If you see the I-beam in the back is at the top of a support on the side wall, there's another support just behind it which is where the other cross piece would go) It's supposed to be a scrap trukk (but also usable as just a regular trukk) so needs more spiky bits, clutter and gubbins. I have the whole other side and the bed still to rivet too yyyyaaaaayyyyy kill me now.
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Apr 29, 2011 23:31
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Thanks for the replies on paint thinning. I am about to paint a lot of orange and I need to get thinning down.
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Apr 30, 2011 02:21
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Finished my models for the month with time to spare, here's some pics. Morvahna is a real pain in the rear end to photograph from the front, will see about getting something better tomorrow once I pick up another bulb of the correct temperature, my lighting rig currently relies on daylight more than I'd like.   Biggest unit I've ever painted, and not an experience I'm really looking forward to repeating. Light infantry are a pain in the rear end when they've got as many fiddly bits as these ones. Lots of pointy stuff to rub around and lose paint during transport/general use, too. Also, huge mold lines that you don't notice until you're lining the fuckers up for photos, long after you have any chance of being motivated to fix them.
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Apr 30, 2011 02:33
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Anyone know any good links for converting old DE Raiders and Warriors into new ones?
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Apr 30, 2011 02:36
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https://www.ebay.com
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Apr 30, 2011 02:37
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stabbington posted:Finished my models for the month with time to spare, here's some pics. Wow man, those look really stellar. Great work!
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Apr 30, 2011 02:48
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Shallow, please build/convert me a Stompa, tia.
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Apr 30, 2011 05:50
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Finished some knights of the blazing zun. I used the conversion bitz GW sells.   
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Apr 30, 2011 09:17
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Some new Incubi. Feedback very welcome, no matter how harsh. Please tell me where it is terrible, even if its a really small niggly personal thing (FROG re: OSL, I'm looking at you). Can't improve otherwise.    
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Apr 30, 2011 12:45
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