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Yerok posted:Plan on either buying a press set from Bavauto or Pelican, or making your own. I tried a couple pullers before I went to Fastenal and picked up a 5/8" diameter threaded rod, a couple nuts, and some washers to fit just inside the outer race's diameter. Besides that I used a steel bar and a piece of wood to set up an improvised press with some impact sockets. Once I figured that out it took me all of 5 hours to wrap it up. I'll take a picture of my setup if you want. Also, the best way to get the wheel hubs out of the bearings is with a 30mm impact socket, an extension, and a big loving hammer. I ran into the issue of the bearing's inner race getting stuck on the hub on the passenger side and was able to solve it with a cut-off wheel and a cold chisel. Pressing the new bearings in is easy, because the old wheel bearings serve as a perfect pressing surface. Thanks for the tips, definitely interested in a picture of your improvised tool. I was told a 30mm impact socket would come in handy on numerous occasions on this car, it's proved it's worth several times already.
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Apr 29, 2011 05:57
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So I'm having a bit of a strange problem with my '99 E36 M3 5-speed. About a week and a half ago, my car suddenly started to have problems idling. It drove normally, but when I'd come to a stop light, or be trying to park, the rpms would start dropping low, then the car would rev itself a bit to compensate. After a while of driving, it could get to the point where the rpms would drop to 0 and it would occasionally die. The next day, the engine light also came on. Of course, I immediately took it into a mechanic, and they diagnosed through the ODB2 codes that one of the O2 sensors was bad. They figured out which one, and replaced it, and I came and picked it up. Unfortunately, that hadn't fixed the problem, though they hadn't realized it--the car wouldn't start having idling issues until it'd been driven around for 5-10 minutes. So I took it back in and told them all about this and they spent a while figuring it out. They used a smoke machine and found a leak in my mass air flow boot, a part that apparently is only on BMWs. Luckily, that was a cheap replacement and they only charged me $20 for the labor as well. So I picked it up and it seemed solid for a while. But, after about 15 minutes of driving, it started to idle weakly again. Not nearly as bad as before, but a little bit. I figured maybe I just needed to drive it a bit or something. Then tonight, driving back from where I was at, it got worse--at a stop light it actually stalled entirely, and when I turned it back on, the engine light was back. I can't pull the codes yet (my buddy with an ODB2 sensor lives about 30 minutes away) but I'm wondering: what in the world could be going on? Could it just be that my IACV is dirty? But why the engine codes? Could another one of the O2 sensors be going bad?
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Apr 29, 2011 06:31
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Yeah, try cleaning your ICV before you throw any more money at it. Might not be that, but it can't hurt to try it.
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Apr 29, 2011 07:12
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Definitely sounds like ICV.
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Apr 29, 2011 12:16
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Das Volk posted:Is it weird that my car started out burning oil and gradually stopped? Sounds like the piston rings just got correctly worn against the cylinder bores and got a good seal, or what people call "breaking in a new engine". I didn't really think that was necessary with new engines, but apparently so.
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Apr 29, 2011 12:53
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For anyone interested in the Dynavin head units, apparently a limited production test run of Android devices has just started shipping. http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=839753 Currently an E46 only experiment, but from the community response and what some of the Dynavin dealers have been saying it looks promising that the next generation of regular production units will be making the switch. I've heard Q4 multiple times for a full release. wolrah fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Apr 29, 2011 |
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Apr 29, 2011 14:44
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wolrah posted:For anyone interested in the Dynavin head units, apparently a limited production test run of Android devices has just started shipping. Holy gently caress. They need to do this for the A4 model.
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Apr 29, 2011 14:59
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wolrah posted:For anyone interested in the Dynavin head units, apparently a limited production test run of Android devices has just started shipping. That's incredibly cool. Can't wait until the blood starts flowing because idiots are surfing the net goons posting on SA with their car head unit while flying down the highway at 85.
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Apr 29, 2011 17:29
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revmoo posted:Definitely sounds like ICV.
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Apr 29, 2011 17:58
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Kenshin posted:Will it hurt the car to drive to Portland and back (~180mi each way) this weekend? Or should we take a different car? Take it out this afternoon and clean all the poo poo out of it, shouldn't take more than an hour.
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Apr 29, 2011 18:06
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wolrah posted:For anyone interested in the Dynavin head units, apparently a limited production test run of Android devices has just started shipping. Ok, as if I wasn't already thinking about picking up a Dynavin unit for my inevitable future E46, if the next version of it will be Android-based I'm sure as hell sold now. Super super cool.
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Apr 29, 2011 18:21
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Looks like I may have found a contender. I took a test drive this morning in an 03 325, and I can definitely get used to it over the 323. The guy was asking 300 over KBB (Good Condition), and wouldn't budge even with a dime sized dent on the rear quarter panel. He had the car maintained via the 6yr/100k warranty service, so I just told him I would get back to him later if I was interested. I am seriously considering it since it's below what the current market is asking (used prices are killer right now), and it's a manual. I'd prefer to get one stock, and this seems to fit the bill quite well. I've seen a lot that have LED tails/clear corners/M3 bumpers and all I can picture is the owner abusing the drat thing. I'm hoping he just calls me back later in the day before the banks close and willing to negotiate, otherwise I'll probably buy it Saturday for his asking price.
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Apr 29, 2011 18:21
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Any particular reason you're looking at the 323/325 (or at least that's the feeling I get reading your posts)? The 328/330 get virtually the same gas mileage, have a good chunk more power on tap, and tend to come more loaded on the options. Plus on the used market the price difference between a 325 and 330 isn't very large, barring ZHPs. Not trolling, just curious is all. Is that 325 you're looking at a one-owner car with all the records? If it is, I wouldn't let a couple hundred bucks keep you from buying it if it is as good of a specimen as it sounds. You can get a dime-sized dent pulled out for cheap at any decent detail shop.
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Apr 29, 2011 18:33
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heat posted:Take it out this afternoon and clean all the poo poo out of it, It's a simple job but it can be a pain in the rear end. I'd say 2-3x the time it takes to do an oil change, especially the first time through. You can't see anything you're doing on this job so study the diagrams before attempting it. It definitely won't hurt to drive on though, aside from the possibility of your engine dying.
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Apr 29, 2011 18:38
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slidebite posted:That's incredibly cool. People can do that anyway with their smartphone, so it's not like it's a new thing.
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Apr 29, 2011 18:44
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heat posted:Take it out this afternoon and clean all the poo poo out of it, shouldn't take more than an hour.
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Apr 29, 2011 19:03
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Guinness posted:Any particular reason you're looking at the 323/325 (or at least that's the feeling I get reading your posts)? The 328/330 get virtually the same gas mileage, have a good chunk more power on tap, and tend to come more loaded on the options. Plus on the used market the price difference between a 325 and 330 isn't very large, barring ZHPs. 
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Apr 29, 2011 19:12
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I'm going to go look at a 2003 M3 with an SMG transmission. Pretty much all of my driving experience has been with a regular manual transmission, and I'm really not familiar with the SMG. Is it reliable, or will I be more likely to end up shelling out big money for repairs if I get an SMG over a standard transmission? Is there anything I can look for while I inspect the car that might hint at trouble on the horizon?
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Apr 29, 2011 20:51
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Vermillion posted:Is it reliable, or will I be more likely to end up shelling out big money for repairs if I get an SMG over a standard transmission? Is there anything I can look for while I inspect the car that might hint at trouble on the horizon? The SMG is basically the same as the manual gearbox with some really pricey electronics and hydraulics to automate it. If things start going wrong, it will get expensive really quick. E: What is the deal with that brown glue-looking stuff that appears to be on the front shock towers of every e34 I've ever seen? More importantly, how the heck do I get rid of it? Lowclock fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Apr 30, 2011 |
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Apr 29, 2011 23:32
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E36 suspension question: Is it possible to replace the rear swaybar droplinks without removing the swaybar itself? Wasted about an hour tonight breaking some rusty rear end bolts loose only to discover they are pressed on the swaybar. We ended up giving up and just installing the new spring/shock on that side without replacing the link. I gotta give credit to bilstein for putting a 5mm hex socket on the end of the shock instead of stupid wrench flats that were on the OEM ones. Ended up toasting the threads of the OEM shocks just getting the stupid top nut off.
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Apr 30, 2011 03:45
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Crustashio posted:E36 suspension question: Is it possible to replace the rear swaybar droplinks without removing the swaybar itself? Wasted about an hour tonight breaking some rusty rear end bolts loose only to discover they are pressed on the swaybar. We ended up giving up and just installing the new spring/shock on that side without replacing the link. They aren't pressed in, probably just rusty. Make sure you have both back tires off the ground. You might have to jack underneath an arm to make sure the joint isn't loaded. Same thing happens with suspension arm ball joints. Once it's unloaded you should just be able to tap on the bolt part and it should come out pretty easily barring rust. Pickle fork if you still can't get it somehow. Crustashio posted:I gotta give credit to bilstein for putting a 5mm hex socket on the end of the shock instead of stupid wrench flats that were on the OEM ones. Ended up toasting the threads of the OEM shocks just getting the stupid top nut off.
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Apr 30, 2011 03:58
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I just sold my E36. Man, this is not a good feeling in my stomach. 
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Apr 30, 2011 05:52
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Its ok, it'll get better.
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Apr 30, 2011 08:12
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wolrah posted:: DynavinDroid:  I didn't even notice that thread before! Now my android-powered unit is shipping monday. I believe he still has more of those units up for grabs, but it's 100 bonez more expensive than the standard v5, just FYI.
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Apr 30, 2011 09:52
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Lowclock posted:E: What is the deal with that brown glue-looking stuff that appears to be on the front shock towers of every e34 I've ever seen? More importantly, how the heck do I get rid of it?
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Apr 30, 2011 13:28
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Any recommendations on something to clean/treat the leather seats in a 2005 325? Looking for a spray or something like Armor All for the seats and interior. shaitan fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Apr 30, 2011 |
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Apr 30, 2011 15:54
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shaitan posted:Any recommendations on something to clean/treat the leather seats in a 2005 325? Leatherique. Not spray but everyone seems to say that this is the best option to really have it look better. http://tinyurl.com/3epme2q
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Apr 30, 2011 17:43
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McMadCow posted:I just sold my E36. Man, this is not a good feeling in my stomach. I immediately regretted selling my E36 M3 back in 2006. I hated watching that spoiled little 16 year old driving it (his first car) away. I still regret it to this day. Me wanting a fun, RWD BMW again is what drove me to pick up my little old 2002. 
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Apr 30, 2011 19:27
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A milestone for my 1999 M3. 88,888 miles! Unfortunately, the mileage will start going up from here on out, since I will be driving about 500 miles a week until the end of September  .
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Apr 30, 2011 20:09
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You should have drove 88 while you took that picture.
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Apr 30, 2011 21:18
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Nitr0 posted:You should have drove 88 while you took that picture. I was thinking about doing that, and setting the trip counter to also go to 888.8, but I'm unfortunately too stupid to pull that off, and would probably kill myself and this poor car.  E36 M3, though. Been an owner since 2006.
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Apr 30, 2011 21:22
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So it's been loving ages since I've posted in AI, but about a week and a half ago my pristine 1998 540 6-speed was rear-ended at a stoplight by an rear end in a top hat doing about 55mph. The car actually didn't look all that bad considering it was pushed about 300 feet through an intersection, but Progressive unsurprisingly decided it was a total loss. Luckily, the settlement was for several thousand dollars above the listed retail for the car. I'm looking at picking up a 2003-04 E46 330 as a replacement, and I'm not too picky about whether it's a coupe or a sedan (although I'd prefer a Ci). The problem is that prices are all over the goddamn place and seem to range from $10k all the way up to $18k. I'm trying to avoid spending every last drop of settlement money, so my goal is to stay in the $12-13k range, although I have a little bit of flexibility. My car only had about 93k miles at its untimely demise, so I'm trying to stay under 100k miles. I'm also specifically looking only at manual transmission cars. Here's my question, for anyone who might have bought a similar car recently: are my goals totally unrealistic or should I be able to find something in my price range if I'm patient enough? I won't have a chance to actually start visiting dealerships or talking to people selling their cars for another week or so, but I'm trying to gauge whether or not I can expect to get some leeway out of people who have their cars listed for $14k+. I'd be interested in hearing about any specific issues I should look for on these cars too, but that information's easy enough to find on dedicated E46 boards I guess. The one up-side to this situation is I can afford to be without a car for a month or two, if my search ends up taking that long. Help me replace my awesome car, AI BMW goons. You're my only hope.
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Apr 30, 2011 23:20
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Oh god... what a lovely day. My 2002's temp gauge has been spiking not only into the red but all the way to getting pegged at the very top. After ~5min of driving, the temp needle would be as high as the gauge could possibly go. I was afraid to drive it further than 10 blocks and back because I didn't know if the gauge was malfunctioning or my cooling system was malfunctioning. Today, I installed a new Auto Meter water temp gauge and, hallelujah, the needle slowly rose until it got to 180 and then just stayed there. Everything's working as it should. *phew* I can actually drive my car for the first time since buying it. All it took was a long list of replacement parts and countless hours of wrenching on it over the course of a month and a half. I keep hearing that the M10 engine is bombproof but I can't help but feel like the entire car is made out of glass right now. Now to fix the windshield wipers, rear defroster, horn, passenger door lock, unreliable electrical system, rebuild the carb, replace the door seals, replace the ultra dim headlights with H4s, install the center console... *sigh* Old cars...
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May 1, 2011 00:49
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Catastrophe posted:I immediately regretted selling my E36 M3 back in 2006. I hated watching that spoiled little 16 year old driving it (his first car) away. I still regret it to this day. Me wanting a fun, RWD BMW again is what drove me to pick up my little old 2002. Yeah, I sold it to a friend who needed it and because I didn't drive it as much as my 2002. Still though, I'm a little bit nervous about having a 40 year old car as my daily driver, so I'll be on the lookout for another E36. This time with a manual trans. EDIT: Also, let me know when you get your rear defroster figured out. Mine doesn't work either.
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May 1, 2011 01:31
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McMadCow posted:EDIT: Also, let me know when you get your rear defroster figured out. Mine doesn't work either. Ehh, I just coated the inside of the rear window with Rain-X Anti-Fog stuff for now. Apparently, it's a common thing to break. I have no idea. The wiring in cars as old as these is crusty like whoa. Broken solder joints, wires with the insulation worn off, broken connectors, corrosion, etc. I still have no idea why my car seems to fluctuate randomly between the system having 12V or 5V. Like.. bright(er) headlights, windshield wipers moves reasonably quickly, dash lights are visible... then BAM, headlights turn into candles, windshield wipers barely move, dash lights so dim they may as well be off. Bummer. The alternator is new, the ground strap is new and hugely beefy. I have no idea what's up. I hate my 2002's electrical system. The rear defroster is way down on my list of things I need to fix for now though.
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May 1, 2011 01:43
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Sold my Si and now I'm just waiting on my guy with the lease on a 135i I'm trying to take over to select a new car. If something goes wrong, I'm thinking about picking up a 3 series from the early 2000s. There's a bunch of them for $5-10k on Craigslist right now. Aside from the typical high mileage concerns with any car, is there anything about the 2000-2003 3 series that would be a red flag? My plan would be to have the 3 series for a year or so until I can save up a few more grand for a larger down payment on a 135i lease. I'm not particularly mechanically inclined, so anything beyond standard oil changes and stuff I'd need a mechanic for. Well Played Mauer fucked around with this message at 02:49 on May 1, 2011 |
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May 1, 2011 02:17
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Catastrophe posted:Now to fix the windshield wipers, rear defroster, horn, passenger door lock, unreliable electrical system, rebuild the carb, replace the door seals, replace the ultra dim headlights with H4s, install the center console... Never make a list longer than the first 2-3 most important things. It helps you stay positive! That way when poo poo goes wrong it can surprise you! Speaking of: I want all of you to go check your kidney grills right now. Is one corner starting to come loose? Are you sure those clips are good? I didn't check at all, and had to go pick the left side grill off the road. Every single clip had shattered. Now my car will look ridiculous until the replacements arrive. I'm trying the matte black kit from Khoalty because it's cheap and I'm curious about the look. Plus it's in stock 
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May 1, 2011 02:22
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Finally picked up a 2000 328i ZPP w/ 85k on the odo this morning at a big name dealership of all places. Asking price was 9k and I initially lowballed them at 6k. Came back with 8.8k (which I balked at) and I eventually got them down to 7k after 15 minutes which I thought was very reasonable given the low miles on it. I test drove the poo poo out of the thing, and it passed my tests. No squeaks or weird engine noises. The only things that bugged me were that the tires were on their way out and there is definitely a power steering leak. It was initially covered up on the initial engine check because they cleaned the bay enough to eat off of, but it was clear that the hose was leaking after the drive. The interior I'd say is 80% there (bolsters are wearing and I even found a small piece of old gum stuck on the rear carpet -- yuck) and the sunroof will need rebuilding (opens perfectly but made a weird noise closing; not opening it again until I can get to it). All in all not 100% there, but the price reflected it and I'll get it to 95% once I can condition the leather a bit. Once it's light out I'll get some pictures up. I absolutely love the thing.
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May 1, 2011 05:48
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Paradoxish posted:
Patience and scouring will win the day here. You just have to pay attention to records mileage and most importantly service history. You'll want one that's had the cooling system done at this age unless miles are absurdly low, and if you're still looking for a 5 series the E39 with the N54 is surprisingly light for its size. IIRC it's only about 70 lbs heavier than a 330 and handles great due to the lighter motor up front. Keep looking.
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May 1, 2011 06:12
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Finished up changing out my Vanos seals and fixing the rattle on my car the other day. I screwed up installing the gasket though and there was oil spurting everywhere when I started up the car. Fixed that, but now I have an SES on. Could the SES have been caused by the screwed up gasket? I've read that it can also be caused by the VANOS seals breaking in, but is the gasket going to cause an SES? Edit: Definitely feel smoother acceleration and the lack of a rattle is sweet smooth engine sound.
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May 1, 2011 20:18
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