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Amandyke posted:I've got a set of KYB struts for my 03 wagon that I'm going have installed in the coming months, anything bushing I should replace while those are out (such that it shouldn't add anything to the labor rate)? Right now the only "aftermarket" bushing/suspension bits are some group N mounts (motor, trans, pitch) and a perrin positive shift kit. It's a daily driver that does not see any track or AX time. The occasional canyon road up to my buddies cabin and some (read minimal) dirt road action. if you're happy with the car don't worry too much about it. I think I only have 1-2 stock bushings left on the whole car, and while the response and handling are incredible, there's a lot more road noise and ride harshness.
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Apr 28, 2011 22:13
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Amandyke might want to consider replacing the front endlinks, even if just with new stockers. It's not directly tied to the strut upgrade, but I can't believe how much tighter new ones made my car feel. I still haven't gotten around to attempting the installation of my D-Specs. I can't find a single drat shop that will do it for under $500 (well, actually one, but they were a no-show for their appointment), so I'm going to have to do it myself. There will probably be much cursing and a fair bit of blood spilled.
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Apr 28, 2011 22:59
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poo poo, I wish I could charge $500 to do struts. Instead I have to compete with a bunch of idiots charging less time than the work actually takes.
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Apr 29, 2011 09:39
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So I'm assuming the average going rate for all 4 struts is $500 labor?
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Apr 29, 2011 12:15
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GG, struts are bloody easy to do, especially with a rattle gun. Takes no longer than two hours for all four, hell 30 minutes if I have my mind really set on the job. 500 dollars? I'll do them for ya all for that, easy money
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Apr 29, 2011 14:39
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Cat Terrist posted:GG, struts are bloody easy to do, especially with a rattle gun. Takes no longer than two hours for all four, hell 30 minutes if I have my mind really set on the job. 500 dollars? I'll do them for ya all for that, easy money Do you have a car that's been driven in 10 salty northeast winters?
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Apr 29, 2011 15:36
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bull3964 posted:Do you have a car that's been driven in 10 salty northeast winters? I took apart 8ender's struts pretty quick (10years of CANADIAN winters). A little acetone+ATF combo on the bolts to soak for a couple hours and you shouldn't have too much trouble. All else fails, grab the 3/4" drive.  
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Apr 29, 2011 15:53
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JayKay posted:So I'm assuming the average going rate for all 4 struts is $500 labor? Closer to $300
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Apr 29, 2011 17:00
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So just changed my oil last night after an AutoRX treatment to see this:    Looks like it's definitely coming from the valve covers. There is a very obvious line of oil I can follow from the little foam "gasket" that sits in between the timing belt cover and the head. I know some seepage is normal and expected, but this looks like a gasket failure. And new gaskets were supposedly used when the heads were worked on... Already have an appointment with the shop to get it looked at (and install my struts and change my trans oil).
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Apr 29, 2011 17:09
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Did they change the grommets on the bolts there? Those can leak too..
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Apr 29, 2011 17:27
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Blaise posted:Did they change the grommets on the bolts there? Those can leak too.. These?  I'm not sure if they did but they do look a bit shiny in the photo. Edit: This isn't mine, but this is the area where I'm seeing the line of oil from 
Amandyke fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Apr 29, 2011 |
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Apr 29, 2011 17:42
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Amandyke posted:And new gaskets were supposedly used when the heads were worked on... Already have an appointment with the shop to get it looked at (and install my struts and change my trans oil). gently caress man, I swore I saw them toss all the old Gaskets when they pulled the block apart. Jesus dude I'm sorry my domino-effect of crazy poo poo happening has rubbed off on you a bit  Amandyke helped me take some great shots of my 2011 after I got rear ended by a homeboy checking his homies on the corner in Berkeley.
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Apr 29, 2011 18:43
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jamal posted:poo poo, I wish I could charge $500 to do struts. Instead I have to compete with a bunch of idiots charging less time than the work actually takes. Norcal prices suck.
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Apr 29, 2011 19:58
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Just read some more info on AutoRX's website (I put a bottle through to see if it would combat a bit of my oil consumption, it did cut down on it a bit) it would appear that seal leaks/seeps aren't uncommon when you're running a treatment through the motor. http://www.auto-rx.com/sealleaks.html They claim it'll stop itself. So maybe I can just clean the area up, run it for a while and see what happens. It's not like oil is gushing out of the motor or there are massive oil spots on my drive way (none are there actually).
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Apr 30, 2011 00:23
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I picked up a black 05 STi a few months ago and couldn't be happier. It's a huge upgrade from my 84 Jetta  My first car was a 1st gen outback and I spent many winters sliding all over the place in that, so I'm pumped to be back in an awd car.The car came with an invidia catless DP and megan catback as well as a blitz bov. It's a bit ricer for me but the car was from the south (I'm in upstate ny) and in really nice shape. It's also dropped which I don't much care for but swapping it out is no big deal now that it's getting warm out lovely iphone image:  I do have a question, I currently have an AP running the 93 stage 2 map and I am getting creep in 4th gear up. From what I could find online it's because of the free flow from the DP, but I had thought the Accessport would clear that issue up with some sort of wastegate magic. I'm logging like 22.4psi in 6th. I know this is a common issue but I can't really sort out whats what on lovely forums like nasioc. Is the proper solution a ported wastegate or protune or what? I'd rather not spend the money on dyno time if it's not going to fix the issue. Also since this is only happening in the higher gears do you think an autocross this weekend would be safe? Thanks a bunch
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Apr 30, 2011 00:44
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You can try the low WGDC map off the cobb site, but you might need a ported wastegate or a catted downpipe to fix that. When you take out all the exhaust restriction you end up flowing more air that the wastegate can bypass so it creeps.
jamal fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Apr 30, 2011 |
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Apr 30, 2011 01:09
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Ok I had figured as much. I'll give that other map a shot but I'll probably end up porting anyhow and fix it properly. Suppose I'll have to sit out of the first autocross of the season :/ Thanks for the confirmation.
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Apr 30, 2011 02:52
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bull3964 posted:Do you have a car that's been driven in 10 salty northeast winters? I have dealt with rusted shitboxes before - that's why I have 6 foot of breaker bar if the rattle gun fails. Which I very much doubt will fail, a good rattle gun should be in anyone's toolbox
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Apr 30, 2011 09:03
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So I finally got my AP, and picked it up in the form of Perrin's stage 1 kit, which included their performance panel filter and their proprietary map. What I've read about their map is that it is quite the increase from Cobb's stage 1. What are the risks of running the perrin panel filter with Cobb's stage 1, and possibly the more aggressive Perrin map? Someone I know mentioned to watch the AFR correction on the AP, but I'm not entirely sure what I'm looking for and what values it should be at load. If I can safely use the filter without problem I will, but paranoia is a factor. Overall I want to know which values on the datalogs are indicative of a poorly setup tune, aside from knock learning with regards to engine survivability. Loving the AP, though. The car runs so much better and behaves like a different car. I've read something mentioning reflashing the ECU every now and again when you first install the AP, due to the ECU needing to adapt. Is there any merit and benefit to this? Thanks for any info! Also I need to learn how to drive a not-slow car. I'm pretty sure my clutch hates me. :V
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Apr 30, 2011 17:04
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Millionth wheel question from me. I should be able to fit Rota Torques 17x7.5 +48, 5x100 with my Eagle GT 225/45's on my Saabaru without fender rolling, right? From looking at Saab92x.com and NASIOC, I should be ok.
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Apr 30, 2011 19:30
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that will fit easy. Tire clearance between a wagon and my old legacy are really close and I once borrowed a set of 17x8 +45s I'm sort of shopping for some wheels. Thinking RPF1s, or some rotas. The SVN and tarmac 2 should both look pretty good.
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Apr 30, 2011 20:56
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Cat Terrist posted:I have dealt with rusted shitboxes before - that's why I have 6 foot of breaker bar if the rattle gun fails. Which I very much doubt will fail, a good rattle gun should be in anyone's toolbox
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Apr 30, 2011 21:28
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nm posted:I'm not sure there's a car in oz as rusty underneath than the suspension of a car daily driven in the salt belt for a decade. Yes, there is - older beach cars. You can achieve a genuine Sockington of rust with a old Mazda and salt spray.
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Apr 30, 2011 23:51
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Just emailed Mach V to see about how much they'd charge me to do the struts/springs. Hoping the entire job is around $1000. Going to be about $700ish in parts, (KYB GR-2's, TiC Strut Spacers, Mach V Springs, Saggy Butt Spacers) and my fingers are crossed that labor will be <$500. I also have a "name that noise problem." At first I thought it was the bent wheels, but now I'm thinking it might be my wheel bearings on the way out. I'm at 102K on the clock, however I wonder if it's from a combo of shot struts/bent wheels making my tires rub when loading. I'm getting a "whub whub" noise from the Driver's Side front wheel at 45MPH that increases in frequency till about 60MPH when it goes away. It's completely dependent on vehicle speed and not engine RPM's. Also it gets louder when it gets under lateral load making right turns. In addition, I've found a odd rub spot on the outer part of my tire which looks consistent with it hitting my fender somewhere. The fender rub has me a bit baffled as I have the stock 17" Saab wheels with Eagle GT 225/45 which shouldn't have any clearance issues. Any ideas? Would blown struts really cause that much lateral movement that my wheels rub? Edit: I do realize that I need to jack my car up and wiggle the wheels to check on the bearings. Hoping to do that when I get the wheels swapped out. JayKay fucked around with this message at 17:24 on May 1, 2011 |
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May 1, 2011 17:20
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Are LGT brakes still a good upgrade for the 3G WRX? I'd just like to improve on the stock brakes, and even the cheapest BBK front kit is $1700 and probably overkill.
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May 1, 2011 20:42
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blargle posted:Are LGT brakes still a good upgrade for the 3G WRX? I'd just like to improve on the stock brakes, and even the cheapest BBK front kit is $1700 and probably overkill. If you're not doing track days you don't need a BBK. You might need better pads and to bleed your brakes/change fluid more often.
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May 1, 2011 20:59
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What tire rotation pattern should I use on an '05 LGT? The manual says to swap front/back on the same side, never switching sides. If my tires don't have a directional tread pattern, should I still stick to that, or do something like front -> back (same side) and back -> front (opposite side)?
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May 2, 2011 00:02
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On my 2005 Forester XT (AT), is the transmission filter the same part number as the oil filter? The Wix filters website is listing the same part number and when I was under there yesterday I thought it looked awfully similar.
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May 2, 2011 18:20
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What sort of gas mileage are people getting on the 09-11 WRXs? I may be in the market for a new car in the coming months, and it's hard to justify ~25mpg (I'm assuming best case scenario) with gas well over $4/gal around here.
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May 2, 2011 19:09
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Somewhat Hairy Ape posted:What sort of gas mileage are people getting on the 09-11 WRXs? I can get over 25 pure freeway in my LGT with the AC off (got 29 once, woo). Though the WRX might have a different final drive. But yeah, don't buy a turbo subaru for the fuel economy. Also, you need premium in that car. This:  is what detonation does and I was on 91 octane. Don't cheap out. (Worth it despite fuel economy if you don't really drive that much). nm fucked around with this message at 19:24 on May 2, 2011 |
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May 2, 2011 19:22
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nm posted:I can get over 25 pure freeway in my LGT with the AC off (got 29 once, woo). Though the WRX might have a different final drive. But yeah, don't buy a turbo subaru for the fuel economy. My commute will soon turn into ~500 miles per week, so fuel economy is certainly a factor. Pretty sure I should nix the WRX off my list. In terms of quick cars that get good mpg, I can't think of much else than a Mini Cooper S.
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May 2, 2011 19:50
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Somewhat Hairy Ape posted:My commute will soon turn into ~500 miles per week, so fuel economy is certainly a factor. Pretty sure I should nix the WRX off my list. Have you considered the 300hp v6 mustang? I've heard they actually get 30+ hwy. You could look at small horsepower cars that are still fun to drive like the 2.
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May 2, 2011 19:56
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Somewhat Hairy Ape posted:What sort of gas mileage are people getting on the 09-11 WRXs? I get 20 in traffic, 25 cruising at 55+ It's not cheap when the premium for 93 gas is added on top, but I think it's worth it, although probably not to drive 500 miles a week in. Buy something with really nice seats and sound deadening (LS400?) instead.
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May 2, 2011 20:03
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nm posted:I've heard the real world isn't to great. (Might want check though) As cool as the new Mustangs are, I'm really just not interested in them. I guess I'll test drive the MCS, along with some lower horsepower yet flickable cars (like the 2).
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May 2, 2011 20:06
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I'd note I commute 500 miles a week. I take the train. I now have the stupid Yaris rental car and because it gets 38 mpg with regular, I am now driving, but you might want to look at public transit options. Then you can get an awesome car and not buy gas.
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May 2, 2011 21:16
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nm posted:I can get over 25 pure freeway in my LGT with the AC off (got 29 once, woo). Though the WRX might have a different final drive. But yeah, don't buy a turbo subaru for the fuel economy. Wait, the detonation was because of the 91 or something else?
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May 2, 2011 21:31
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I've never gotten above 20mpg for a tank in my '11.
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May 2, 2011 21:32
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JayKay posted:Wait, the detonation was because of the 91 or something else?
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May 2, 2011 21:32
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nm posted:I'd note I commute 500 miles a week. I'm considering the train option, but I think it would cost about $40 round trip (even with the monthly discount). The upside is that I can work on the train.
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May 2, 2011 21:34
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new parts are starting to come in: that's headgaskets, headstuds, and a new 3-4 gearset. killer b oil pickup and a freshly machine block should be here later this week. and here's those broken gears  the new gears and the good parts from the transmission are getting treated for extra strength.
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May 2, 2011 22:06
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