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Already broke my first part. Was running it up slopped curves and finally got bored, came in the garage, did a 360 and barely tapped a chair leg and snapped the rear control arm. Seems like the stuff that SHOULD bust parts up doesn't and stupid stuff like a quick roll over or tapping a wall does. Bought a new metal one from the hobby shop. I also bought a couple other things I asked for that would break soon. One being a knuckle or something... now time to play with these wonderfully tiny screws. Yay. I think I popped my "OMG GONNA BREAK IT" cherry or whatever. Thanks for tire advice. Minor question - while I was playing with it the front wheel drive went out for a little bit and came back later no problem. Reason? I'm not sure but this is like maintaining a car but somehow more expensive if I keep this up. 
VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Apr 18, 2011 |
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Apr 18, 2011 00:52
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VibrioCholera posted:
Stripped diff gears maybe.
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Apr 18, 2011 01:14
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renraku posted:Stripped diff gears maybe. It's running totally fine right now. Got the rear carriers installed and all is well. Upgraded to aluminum or whatever. Thought I had the toe in screwed up but a quick search says the aluminum carriers alter the toe in over stock. The motor flexes a little bit but I'm assuming it's supposed to have some play for torque. I'm just being paranoid. I may take a video but one of the gears seems noisy. They're all relatively easy to replace, yeah? VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Apr 18, 2011 |
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Apr 18, 2011 02:50
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VibrioCholera posted:It's running totally fine right now. Got the rear carriers installed and all is well. Upgraded to aluminum or whatever. Thought I had the toe in screwed up but a quick search says the aluminum carriers alter the toe in over stock. Yeah, relatively easy to replace. Even if the gears are stripped a little they can go in and out of operation.
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Apr 18, 2011 13:38
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On the more 'Daaaaawwwwww' side of R\C http://rjimports.auctivacommerce.com/F430-Style-Kids-Remote-Control-Ride-On-FERRARI-Power-Wheels-CAR-P1339469.aspx Just got this for my nephew's second birthday. His dad was huge into RC cars and it was great to see them both so excited. He ended up going to sleep sitting in it a few hours after the party. My wife and I felt so loving awesome for it.
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Apr 18, 2011 15:32
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VibrioCholera posted:Me again. Traxxas does make a sway bar kit for the car, and it really transforms the handling. Its very adjustable and will get you to pretty much any type of body roll amount you want. I know you already bought a metal A-arm replacement, but I have to suggest not buying another one. I'd go with the RPM A-arms. The problem with aluminum A-arms is that they wont break, which sounds good at first until you realize that if you apply enough force to the A-arm, something will break, and the next thing in line is the much more expensive (and hard to replace) bulkhead and chassis mounts. The RPM a-arms strike the perfect balance between being stronger than stock, but not so strong that they'll rip your car in half when you hit something. Breaking stuff is part of running RC cars, and chances are if you've made a certain part unbreakable, you've just made a different part much more breakable.
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Apr 18, 2011 17:08
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It started raining and that sort of killed my grand plans of going to a local forest or something and running around since I don't feel like cleaning all that off.
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Got a SC10 4x4 secured, already have a tekin rx8 and 5.5t sc4x motor waiting for it. Just have to get a servo and the expensive rear end receiver the m11x takes  Can't fuckin wait!
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Apr 18, 2011 19:21
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Phat_Albert posted:Traxxas does make a sway bar kit for the car, and it really transforms the handling. Its very adjustable and will get you to pretty much any type of body roll amount you want. I was doing some serious reading last night on other forums (I only post here though) and I learned the benefits of RPM pieces and totally understand the theory and will do this. The only thing I've replaced is the carriers so far with the Traxxas aluminum ones. From here on out it's going to be RPM plastic pieces. I didn't really know what to call the carriers so I think I just made the name up but I haven't replaced arms at all yet. Was also fairly straight forward and easy once I wrangled the bearings out of the old one. Used a grinder to burn through the plastic and bust them out of the broken side - they were really jammed in there. edit: Maybe instead of seeing how fast I can break everything I should go see this pretty big looking outdoor and indoor track here in Joliet, IL. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Apr 18, 2011 |
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Apr 18, 2011 20:14
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Just an FYI, but if you find yourself needing new bearings, hit up AvidRC.com. I've replaced all of the bearings in both my Blitz and D8 with them and they're as great as they are affordable.
TremorX fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Apr 18, 2011 |
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Apr 18, 2011 20:38
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Agreed on avidrc. They sell full kits for the Slash that are very affordable, and are better than the OEM ones.
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Apr 18, 2011 21:57
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I have heard great things about their ceramic diff balls too, plan on ordering a set for my SC10. They're cheaper than carbide diff balls at the LHS! ps - balls
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Apr 18, 2011 22:10
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Putting those 1/10 HPI drift tires on the 2WD Slash is an awesome time and everyone should try it.
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Apr 19, 2011 02:17
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Oh gently caress yes! Today was a good day. I found out a couple of awesome things, namely, I do actually have a local hobby shop, and the owner definitely knows his poo poo way more than the guys I used to rely on an hour or so away. He managed to fix my Revo and get it running and driving again. Turns out the servo for the gear shifter is sticking and it got kicked into neutral and wouldn't shift out. Managed to pop it into Forward and voila, it'll haul balls and tear rear end just like it used to. No reverse until I manage to replace the servo or figure out why the gently caress it's not working like it should, but who needs reverse anyways?  Second awesome thing, apparently a track just opened up recently in a town about 30 mins away. This is wicked news for a guy stuck in the middle of nowhere in Arkansas. Maybe now I can take my Revo to a proper course rather than just bashing it in the local parks / quarries. So stoked 
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Apr 21, 2011 00:32
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T1g4h posted:Oh gently caress yes! Today was a good day. I found out a couple of awesome things, namely, I do actually have a local hobby shop, and the owner definitely knows his poo poo way more than the guys I used to rely on an hour or so away. That's good news if you want to race! I live near The Tiltyard but I got out of RC cars for now... I had a Revo and a Xray XB8 but I just didn't have the time to put into it.
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Apr 21, 2011 02:23
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After breaking the
on my D8 last weekend, I've fixed everything and got it going again... still trying to chase down how to set my carb and get it running right. It seems to shut off a lot, but I think that's more me not keeping it revved or something. Nitro is hard!
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Apr 22, 2011 01:11
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Yeah, that's one thing that annoys me about Nitro is the stalling. And noise. And mess.
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Apr 22, 2011 01:24
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Are there BENEFITS to it at this point? Seems like electric are less hassle, more durable, and cheaper in the long run?
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Apr 22, 2011 01:38
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VibrioCholera posted:Are there BENEFITS to it at this point? Seems like electric are less hassle, more durable, and cheaper in the long run? The exhaust note that you can only get from a Nitro truck is one of the reasons I have yet to sell my Revo and go electric. I love that sound 
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Apr 22, 2011 02:30
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VibrioCholera posted:Are there BENEFITS to it at this point? Seems like electric are less hassle, more durable, and cheaper in the long run? Not really, but man is it fun (if you're into that sort of thing).
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Apr 22, 2011 15:05
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Need some help. I've got the bug again and gonna get back into some RC cars/trucks. I need to get a new radio though, my old one is trashed from sitting around for 10 yrs. Not to worries about cost as I will use the same one for multiple cars, so it does need multi-vehicle memory (3-4 would be enough, I hope). I used to use Futaba for both air and cars but should I bother looking at some others like Airtronics or the few others putting out ones? I want to get spread spectrum so I don't have to worry about crystals (one of the best technologies to come up since I raced). Thanks for any input. There are only 2 hobby shops in my metro area and both only keep futaba in stock so can't put my hands on others.
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Apr 23, 2011 02:34
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Use Spektrum stuff and it seems to work well enough... Fairly affordable and plenty of options. I'm sure someone else can chime in on the other stuff.
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Apr 23, 2011 02:40
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TremorX posted:... still trying to chase down how to set my carb and get it running right. It seems to shut off a lot, but I think that's more me not keeping it revved or something. Nitro is hard! Ambient temp and humidity will affect the idle and other settings, so one of the things you have to pay attention to is what your carb settings are as the day heats up or if it rains, etc. Running in the morning and running in late afternoon require different settings, for example. Also check your idle stop screw setting, if you have to keep revving the engine the carb might just be closing too much. Also, your clutch - I'm assuming you have aluminum shoes in it, but in ye olden days the composite shoes could melt to the inside of the clutchbell. e: here's something RC but a bit different: the Starship Enterprise (original) in a pool: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQEsG4eKIXs krushgroove fucked around with this message at 12:06 on Apr 23, 2011 |
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Apr 23, 2011 10:44
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I really hadn't taken that into consideration but it makes perfect sense. I live about 85ish miles south of the track I run at. What's been frustrating me is that I set it up here, have it running great and starting consistently, then I get to the track and it won't start and runs like crap, which has been leading me to start chasing other "problems." I'll get the hang of it, and I'm having a great time with it regardless!
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Apr 23, 2011 17:28
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renraku posted:Stripped diff gears maybe. Car is still in one piece but I have an intermittent problem: I don't have power to the front wheels all of the time. It's extremely obvious in grass since it hardly drives in tall grass without 4WD. I wasn't really that bad on it last weekend either. Was just flipping over curbs in my front yard. I do know the stock plastic pieces break and are ultra-cheap and meant to break within reason. I KNOW I'm not THAT hard on it. (I've watched people throw these things off cliffs practically.) The drive shaft doesn't spin all the time so hopefully that narrows down my problem. When I went to go play with it today after work I saw just the rear wheels running and the shaft was not spinning. This occurs in the air and on the ground and occasionally it spins again but not all of the time. Quick googling leads me to a few things but wanted to narrow it down with you guys before I ran off and bought 4 different parts. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Apr 23, 2011 |
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Apr 23, 2011 20:46
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VibrioCholera posted:Car is still in one piece but I have an intermittent problem: The gear that is connected to the drive shaft in the rear is stripped. Or the rear diff is stripped. If both rear tires spin when the fronts are still then it's the gear on the shaft.
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Apr 23, 2011 21:49
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Tindjin posted:Need some help. I've got the bug again and gonna get back into some RC cars/trucks. I need to get a new radio though, my old one is trashed from sitting around for 10 yrs. I'm extremely happy with the Airtronics M11X I just got. Way more stuff than I'll ever use but there's one big thing it offered over my previous radio that I wanted - channel mixing. I want to try mechanical brakes on my Mugen MBX6 e conversion and my old radio just couldn't do it. If you don't have any use for that kind of stuff... I'm actually selling my old Airtronics MX-3 FHSS with two receivers. It's a 3 channel 2.4ghz radio and has been dead nuts reliable while people at our local track have had interference issues (mostly people running M11s with spektrum modules). 18 model memory, all the adjustments you need for most normal surface r/c applications. Shoot me a PM if you're interested or want more info
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Apr 24, 2011 04:39
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needknees posted:If you don't have any use for that kind of stuff... I'm actually selling my old Airtronics MX-3 FHSS with two receivers. It's a 3 channel 2.4ghz radio and has been dead nuts reliable while people at our local track have had interference issues (mostly people running M11s with spektrum modules). 18 model memory, all the adjustments you need for most normal surface r/c applications. Shoot me a PM if you're interested or want more info Yea I think that would be great for getting back into it. PM sent.
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Apr 27, 2011 05:35
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My main RC annoyance these days: not having the ONE single spare piece that would allow me to have a play. Brought my scale crawler to my girlfriend's and the servo horn is stripped, so it basically won't steer anywhere. Ordered an alloy one (and a spare, I have many Hitec servos) but I still won't be able to drive it properly until a week and a half from now 
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Apr 27, 2011 10:51
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krushgroove posted:My main RC annoyance these days: not having the ONE single spare piece that would allow me to have a play. Brought my scale crawler to my girlfriend's and the servo horn is stripped, so it basically won't steer anywhere. Ordered an alloy one (and a spare, I have many Hitec servos) but I still won't be able to drive it properly until a week and a half from now You don't have a local hobby store around you? I think mine literally carries everything (except RPM arms - they're always out of stock!!!). Was pretty amazed at it. Outside of the hoards of nerdy RC dudes spergin' over cars the guy there was awesome. He disassembled a good portion of it and fixed my driveshaft, took the play out of the motor mount, and fixed the gear meshing all at once. I thought I'd pay an arm and a leg - it was all free. It's amazing what having the set screw back in the driveshaft does. It doesn't fall out anymore and cause the fronts to stop. The motor also stopped wiggling!!! Too bad this is the wettest April in like Chicago history. I don't mind muddin' with the RC but cleaning it after a mudding adventure gets old fast. I dunno how logical it is but I just take the battery out then hose the car down and take the air compressor and blow water out/off everything on the car then pat it with a towel to get any drops off. Seems to work pretty drat well. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 14:13 on Apr 27, 2011 |
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Apr 27, 2011 14:00
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There's a shop nearby but I'm not in a rush. Plus employee discount  But you stick with your local shop, those guys sound like they know how to keep customers coming back.
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Apr 27, 2011 14:06
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I know that this is the cars thread, but I figured you guys would have some advice about RC Helicopters as well. I want an RC Helicopter strictly for strapping a GoProHD to it and getting some scenery shots. Any recommendations for the best way to get into RC Helicopters? I'm more practically oriented than anything else. I looked around a bit and saw the recommendation of the Walkera Lama 3 as a decent starter helicopter that could hold the weight of a GoProHD (3.3 ounces). Thoughts? Should I find something small and cheap to fly around and crash a few times before I go with the bigger one? Does anyone have some good resources for learning how to fly an RC helicopter?
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Apr 27, 2011 18:48
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Fried my tekin 17.5 in the SCT last night at practice . It's was getting worse and worse ever since I forgot to change gearing from the fairly open outdoor track to the super tight high grip indoor track. Got it hot that one time about a month ago and it was never the same... last night it finally gave up the ghost. it just kept getting slower and slower, pulled it off and the thing was scorched. Not very pleased. So of course I did the proper thing and got a mod motor for it! Picked up a Viper 10.5 and installed it tonight at the track. Man what a blast. Apparently my wild guess at gearing was pretty good... I temped it after ~3 minutes of warmup just to be sure and it was barely over 100F. After a 5 minute main it was sitting at 132F . Ran great, nice and smooth... moreso than the tekin. Ended up with 3rd in the A so I can't complain!
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Apr 28, 2011 07:29
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needknees posted:Fried my tekin 17.5 in the SCT last night at practice I just did the same damned thing! I had it geared high for the track... Temps were high but not dangerously so, and I could clear the triple none of the other stock SCTs were. I got it home and decided to play around in the yard with my son and, forgetting I had changed gears, fried it after 5 minutes. They're replacing it under warranty for like $30ish. Hopefully I get it back before the next club race.
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Apr 28, 2011 16:35
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Z3n posted:I know that this is the cars thread, but I figured you guys would have some advice about RC Helicopters as well. Might want to try these threads for helicopters http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3386779&pagenumber=1 http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3405664&pagenumber=1
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Apr 30, 2011 23:46
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Whats a good 1/10 EP onroad to get into racing with? I really, really want to buy a HPI cup racer, but after talking to the guys at the local track, given that there is no class they suit to race in I was told to avoid it. They do run a 'run what ya brung' class for beginners, I was thinking of just getting the cup racer and entering that class anyway (its silver can only) and if I like racing, then get another car specifically for the stock brushless class when I want to progress. that way if I dont like it I still have a nice little AE86 cul-de-sac basher. I guess for racing Id be looking at a belt driven chassis, yeah? Ive only ever had shaft driven stuff, so belts are new and exciting. I am tossing up between the sprint 2 or a Tamiya one (TA05?), but open to suggestions. Seriously, why cant cup racers be more popular? such a cool idea to have super detailed vintage racers. furthermore, why cant we all run cool looking bodies instead of stupid mazda 6 blobs?
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May 3, 2011 04:35
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Laserface posted:Whats a good 1/10 EP onroad to get into racing with? Does your track do a Vintage Trans-Am class? It's not quite as detailed as cup, but it's a pretty good class for beginners. If so, then the HPI Sprint 2 Sport with the 69 Z28 body is the way to go -- it comes with class spec wheels, tires, and body. You can slap the Novak 25.5 VTA set in it (VERY reasonably priced brushless kit) and you're ready to go! The chassis is mediocre. Mine's held up to a lot of rough parking lot abuse, but it also lacks a lot of adjustability. The nice part is, every 1/10 on-road HPI body fits it, as do the wheels and tires, so you can move into the GT class (similar to VTA, but GT-style bodies) pretty affordably, if your track offers that. If you're going to get into the more competitive stuff, the the Tamiya one may be better for you. I'm with you on the 'Mazda 6 blobs' entirely. I'd much rather see a lot of different scale cars than the same body painted different ways. I *REALLY* wish there was a 1/10 F1 class going where I am, I'd buy one of those in a heartbeat.
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May 3, 2011 05:23
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TremorX posted:Does your track do a Vintage Trans-Am class? It's not quite as detailed as cup, but it's a pretty good class for beginners. If so, then the HPI Sprint 2 Sport with the 69 Z28 body is the way to go -- it comes with class spec wheels, tires, and body. You can slap the Novak 25.5 VTA set in it (VERY reasonably priced brushless kit) and you're ready to go! The chassis is mediocre. Mine's held up to a lot of rough parking lot abuse, but it also lacks a lot of adjustability. The nice part is, every 1/10 on-road HPI body fits it, as do the wheels and tires, so you can move into the GT class (similar to VTA, but GT-style bodies) pretty affordably, if your track offers that. If you're going to get into the more competitive stuff, the the Tamiya one may be better for you. no vintage class. they run Novice (anything with a silver can), stock (21T brushless) modified (17.5T brushless) and mini. any class will run if there is 3 cars or more. I went to watch the races the other day and while Mini was definitely the most fun to watch, 1/10 stock and modified is the most popular. F1 ran 3 cars but looks mostly boring. 12th scale pan cars ran too, but ehhhh. I dont like poo poo like that. RWD touring would be cool as gently caress though. One guy was running the HPI racing WRX body, so I guess they arent too strict on the 6 bodies. I guess thats just the guys wanting the most aerodynamic body they can get, for their super serious racing toy cars. I want to bomb around in a AE86 or a Silvia of some description. I will probably suck but eh itd look cool as gently caress.
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May 3, 2011 05:51
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 SC10 4X4 KITS HAVE SHIPPED TO DISTRIBUTORS Hopefully the 4x4 sct class really takes off in my area! Can't freakin wait
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May 3, 2011 15:13
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Z3n posted:I know that this is the cars thread, but I figured you guys would have some advice about RC Helicopters as well. If you want to take flying videos on the "cheap" get a used ipod touch, then get one of the A/R Drones. I am having a loving hoot with mine and with a $3 app you can record the video from the 2 cameras. Helicopters are awesome though but much shorter learning curve with the Drone due to the "autopilots" and such built into the software.
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May 5, 2011 05:01
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Goddamnit. Busted another shock tower cap off my Revo today bashing it around in the rock quarry and jumping gravel piles. I'm incredibly glad this truck is so durable because i was landing hard and rolling it alot, but at the same time, this fucker goes through shock tower caps like nothing else. And it's always the rear shocks too 
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May 5, 2011 06:19
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