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I use Titebond III for anything outdoors and II for everything else.
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Apr 28, 2011 18:25
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Use stuff from McMaster for normal joints, use various marine epoxies for crazy glue jobs involving steam bending, waterproof-ness, etc. Superglue for filling/stopping cracks in woodturning.
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Apr 28, 2011 18:41
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I just bought a purpose-made hide glue heating pot, along with some hide glue (crystals? Flakes?) off CG for a really good price. I can post a trip report from my tests using this mess if anyone's interested.
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Apr 28, 2011 22:23
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I was reading in one of my books about EEE cream. What is that, really, and is there a more generic thing I can ask for if I go to the store? It sounds like maybe it's a pore filler or something? I don't know. I had some wee little bloodwood stock left over from another project, and so I made some blanks and was playing with them on the lathe. It turns very nicely, and finishes excellently...except for those drat pores.
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Apr 28, 2011 22:46
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Fish glue is great for joints that have to come back apart or get adjusted. Don't ever store your project in the trunk of a black car in florida though. (edit- stories of violins etc. coming apart in the car are apocryphal afaik but abundant.) Here's 1 vote for Elmer's white glue.
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Apr 28, 2011 22:55
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I use either Titebond II, Elmer's yellow or the big containers of yellow glue from the Woodworking Store, I'm not very picky. Pretty much any modern yellow glue will be stronger than the wood fibers, probably even Elmer's white glue but never use generic brand white glue, that stuff is poo poo. Gorilla Glue for outdoor projects.
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Apr 29, 2011 02:27
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I've used some of the generic stuff, and store brands over the years and for the most part, you're going to destroy the wood before it comes unglued. Maybe if you're in some manner of extreme environment like the rainforest or death valley you might have issues with the cheaper stuff coming apart due to heat/humidity. Pulling work apart that's been glued with the cheap stuff will usually result in most softwoods splitting or shearing the contacting surfaces before the glue will give way. As for hard wood, I've seen it go both ways with wood breaking first, and glue breaking first.
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Apr 29, 2011 13:57
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The last thing I made with wood was a bird box when I was twelve years old. Sick of the glass chopping board my at my mum's house, I decided to make a wooden chopping board using a piece of scrap oak kitchen worktop. Very easy to make for someone experienced with using wood, but I'm proud as I'm a woodworking retard.   Considering making a few of these and trying to sell them on eBay...
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Apr 29, 2011 17:43
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^^ Nice cutting board, how did you finish it? My friend has been nice enough to let me use his wood lathe. He inherited it after his grandpa died. I found out yesterday that he has to return it to his grandma for some retarded reason. (I will take that back if grandma starts turning things.) We are going to look at a couple used wood lathes from craigslist this weekend. Is there a guide somewhere that explains what to look at to make sure it isn't so shitted out it isn't worth it? I assume play in the spindle is bad, but beyond that I don't really know. e: Found this one which seems to be very detailed: http://www.mermac.com/advicenew.html taqueso fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Apr 29, 2011 |
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Apr 29, 2011 18:54
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taqueso posted:^^ Nice cutting board, how did you finish it? Gave it a few coats of olive oil which really brought the grain out and gave the wood a nice colour. I'm very happy with it, and I'm planning on making another tomorrow to see if I get get £25-30 for it on eBay UK. Smaller hand made ones sell for £20, and this is bigger: 400mm x 300mm x 40mm.
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Apr 29, 2011 19:05
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I'm no expert of food-safe stuff, but did you read up on that finishing technique? My understanding was that it's bad to apply oils that could go rancid.
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Apr 29, 2011 19:32
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I think you're right, I'll give it a good scrub and apply some food safe mineral oil.
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Apr 29, 2011 19:52
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A couple diluted layers of salad bowl finish worked well for me, and are definitely food safe. Bonus is that it holds up better than just plain old oil. The key is to dilute it down and only put a couple layers on so you're not actually building the finish up at all where it would show scars. Of course, this was for an end-grain board, so it may behave a little differently than yours (i.e. along-grain might show scars more easily.)taqueso posted:My friend has been nice enough to let me use his wood lathe. He inherited it after his grandpa died. I found out yesterday that he has to return it to his grandma for some retarded reason. (I will take that back if grandma starts turning things.) We are going to look at a couple used wood lathes from craigslist this weekend. Is there a guide somewhere that explains what to look at to make sure it isn't so shitted out it isn't worth it? I assume play in the spindle is bad, but beyond that I don't really know. I don't know much but I do know that one of the most critical factors is whether or not everything is still lined up properly. Before anything else, put a spur drive and a live center in and slide the tailstock in towards the headstock. Make sure the points on each piece are dead on. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Apr 29, 2011 |
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Apr 29, 2011 20:27
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Bad Munki posted:I don't know much but I do know that one of the most critical factors is whether or not everything is still lined up properly. Before anything else, put a spur drive and a live center in and slide the tailstock in towards the headstock. Make sure the points on each piece are dead on. Thanks. Looks like it is academic though, just got a text that says he bought one of them this afternoon.
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Apr 29, 2011 21:19
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Really really really enjoying the new lathe. I've just been playing around with random shapes and such thus far, not really trying to make anything in particular. And then this happened and I'm pretty sure it's some sort of turnip from space.
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Apr 29, 2011 23:21
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Bad Munki posted:Really really really enjoying the new lathe. I've just been playing around with random shapes and such thus far, not really trying to make anything in particular. And then this happened Haha, congrats on the turnip turner. Mine (and the rest of my poo poo) are once again hundreds of miles from me for the rest of the summer and likely fall. Whoop.
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Apr 30, 2011 17:51
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I gotta say, as a theatrical carpenter some of the finish work that you guys do has blown me away, I'm not nearly talented enough to make some of the furniture that you guys have put up. But if you're interested, I could show you some of the sets I've built. 
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Apr 30, 2011 19:41
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Well, I finished all the detail sanding and scraping in the front room of my house. It was the newer floor that was oak instead of maple (like the rest of the house). If I had to guess I'd say that this floor was 30 years or younger since it was the kind with the bevels instead of just flat, and it was also stained and varnished instead of waxed like the rest of the house. Much easier to remove than 80 years of wax. Here is the colour of the original oak floor (Ramdom GIS picture that looks like my floor before I started).  It was depressingly dark, sort of like the finish you'd see in an old church, and just absorbed any light that touched it. To get oak to do that you'd probably have to really hit it with some manner of walnut stain. I think they might have wanted walnut, but couldn't afford it, or just decided to do this to oak to make it look that way. Honestly, why do people do bad things to nice wood? The next pic is after I removed all of the stain with the sander and scraper. I never touched in the cracks (bevels) since I thought it would look good to still be dark in between them. Give the individual boards some extra definition.  (click for 1024x768) As you can see it's pretty dull looking. Just sort of a greyish-brown colour. This is when I knew that I was in luck, as that's how oak is supposed to look in the rough. Ahhhhhhh! MOM! You spilled two even coats of polyurethane all over my nice drab floor. Its going to get all shiny and burnt-honey looking.  (click for 1024x768) GOD DAMMIT! What the hell? Look at that grain definition, look at the tones and hues of those boards, look at all the light being allowed to warm up the room! "I HATE YOU MOM! I hate you!" Maybe. . . if I apply another two coats of satin polyurethane it will cover up all that ugly wood grain and give me my dull floor again. . . poo poo!  (click for 1024x768) Seriously, that is how an oak floor is supposed to look, and I'd challenge anyone to a duel who says otherwise. Also got to give my mom a big thanks since she came in this morning and helped me clean and vacuum every square cm of my house so there was not a spec of dust to land on the floor while it was drying. Also she's pretty much the go-to person in my family when someone needs to stain, paint, strip or coat wood since she's done so much of it over the years with all the renovating she's done.. Also, protip: Only use water bases Poly. It goes on smoother, dries faster, and you don't start tripping balls off the fumes if you have to live in the house within a week of applying it. I can't wait to see what the maple is going to look like after a few coats of this stuff when I get home tomorrow from work.
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May 1, 2011 21:46
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Wow, I really like the contrast between the darker micro-beveled seams and the sanded board faces. It looks really nice man, don't know what else to say other than "good job" and that your decisions reflect good taste
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May 1, 2011 21:52
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Looks like a ship deck. Really nice. "Ship floor" it's called in Norway. I have most of the first floor covered in Alloc laminate like it. Looks like this: http://www.europe.alloc.com/data/b/0/34/55/6_2701_0.jpg
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May 1, 2011 22:57
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Iskariot posted:Looks like a ship deck. Really nice. "Ship floor" it's called in Norway. I have most of the first floor covered in Alloc laminate like it. Looks like this: http://www.europe.alloc.com/data/b/0/34/55/6_2701_0.jpg Is it hard to keep clean?
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May 1, 2011 23:48
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GEMorris posted:Wow, I really like the contrast between the darker micro-beveled seams and the sanded board faces. It looks really nice man, don't know what else to say other than "good job" and that your decisions reflect good taste I'm pretty happy with it. But I have a lot more to do. That was about 1/5 of the flooring I have to coat. The rest of the house is maple, so it's going to be substantially brighter. Circus Pies! posted:Is it hard to keep clean? Nope. If you have a good coat of varnish or polyurethane on them stuff doesn't get stuck in the bevels. If you own a vacuum cleaner that isn't a total lemon, then it's no different than a regular wood floor, which is really no harder to clean than a linoleum floor if it's done right.
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May 2, 2011 00:14
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Since we were talking about glue earlier - a cautionary tale for you all: I bought an old table made from a White sewing machine at a garage sale, with the plan of cleaning it up and putting a new top on it for my Mom for Mother's Day. The top was toast, so I got to work today making a new one out of cherry. I glued it up, although I didn't use biscuits thinking the white Gorilla glue would be fine. I worked on the legs for the table, cleaning up the rust and giving them a new coat of paint. I figured the top was dry enough to work on (mistake #1), so I took it out of the clamps, crosscut it to size, and went to work routing a channel for a walnut inlay. To do this, I had supported it on my bench cookies. I finished routing the channel and set the router down in the middle of the board (mistake #2) and went to get a roundover bit to do the edge profile. When I came back, the board had split right along one of the glue lines. I was able to get it back together, although this time I used biscuits as extra insurance (and I'm leaving it clamped until tomorrow). It's actually driving me crazy because I have a ton to do this week and want to cross this project off my list, but I learned my lesson and will wait for the glue to dry this time.
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May 2, 2011 00:52
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LordOfThePants posted:I glued the top of a sewing machine table and it failed. I used Gorilla Glue this weekend as well for a table and went from this:  to this:  Now I know why my uncle says "You can never have too many clamps." Long story short my legs weren't cut square and didn't have a good connection with the table top and they basically fell apart. But I'm curious how long you let the glue set? Even with the quick dry Gorilla glue, I usually try to let it sit for at least a couple hours heavily clamped. If things aren't really wiggly after that I'll take a couple of the clamps off and do some gentle work to it. Since this morning I have started a new table and am currently waiting on my second coat of polyurethane to dry.  Blistex posted:I hate my mom but she finishes an awesome floor. So really I actually love her. I'm curious how liberal you were with each coat. Were they all pretty even or did you go heavy at first and lighter toward the end? This is my first time finishing a piece and am curious what people's preferences are. jvick fucked around with this message at 01:48 on May 2, 2011 |
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May 2, 2011 01:06
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jvick posted:I'm curious how liberal you were with each coat. Were they all pretty even or did you go heavy at first and lighter toward the end? This is my first time finishing a piece and am curious what people's preferences are. Hey! Don't misquote me, you'll get me in trouble.  When we applied it, it goes on slightly milky. This is great for telling where you have already applied it. The first two coats when on with a brush to make sure they went in the bevels evenly, and not heavy, or light. Apply it just thick enough that the milkiness goes away in a few seconds. The final three coats went on thinner with an applicator cloth that attaches to a mount and then a broomstick. Basically, two medium, three light. We used two different kinds of poly on it. Regular satin for the first three, and satin floor for the last two. They were all the same brand, but I figured that the specific flooring type would be a little more durable since it's a high traffic area (I do about 90% of my indoor walking on the floors). Honestly, it's pretty hard to screw up Polyurethane. Just apply evenly, and not too heavy since you can always apply more coats. We waited about an hour between coats to make sure it was dry. Now I'm going to make sure I don't walk on it for two days, and for the next few days after that I will only walk on mats placed in strategic places. My uncle was telling me about another brand (more expensive) that you apply the next coat while the previous one is still tacky. This causes the two coats to bond together, creating a single thick layer instead of multiple ones. Then again, I'm not going to spring for stuff that's +$60 a gallon.
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May 2, 2011 01:42
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Fixed.  And thanks for the info. I think 3 coats will be good for now. I'll apply more in a month or so if it needs it.
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May 2, 2011 01:51
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Circus Pies! posted:Is it hard to keep clean? I've dropped hammers, ladders, paint cans and whatnot on the floor without a mark. It's strong poo poo. The Original Trend lines include the aluminum locking system (probably the best system you can get once you get used to it) and attached dampening mats glued to each board. The looks is also superior to most if not all other manufacturers. The only contender around here on quality is Pergo. The matte finish also helps with the infamous colder feeling laminate gets when the temperature drops.
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May 2, 2011 14:48
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jvick posted:Fixed. If you don't do all the coats at the same time you'll have to be sure to really sand that last one well before starting to coat it again. Leaving it for a while and walking on it will cause some scuffing that might be visible if you apply coats later, you could also encase hair and dust if you're not careful, which would then require tons of sanding to remove.
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May 2, 2011 16:18
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Just bought my first piece of African Mahogany! It's not genuine but I'm excited nonetheless - been using domestic wood up until now.
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May 2, 2011 19:24
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Blistex posted:If you don't do all the coats at the same time you'll have to be sure to really sand that last one well before starting to coat it again. Leaving it for a while and walking on it will cause some scuffing that might be visible if you apply coats later, you could also encase hair and dust if you're not careful, which would then require tons of sanding to remove. I'm just doing a small table for now, but using Polyurethane as well. It's just my first time finishing any piece. Thanks for the tips though! MarshallX posted:Just bought my first piece of African Mahogany! It's not genuine but I'm excited nonetheless - been using domestic wood up until now. It's hard as heck, let me tell you. But you'll enjoy it. I think it's absolutely gorgeous wood.
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May 3, 2011 00:12
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jvick posted:I'm just doing a small table for now, but using Polyurethane as well. It's just my first time finishing any piece. Thanks for the tips though! Forget what I said then. If it's a table (that you will not be walking on a lot) then 2-3 coats will be fine.
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May 3, 2011 01:39
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MarshallX posted:Just bought my first piece of African Mahogany! It's not genuine but I'm excited nonetheless - been using domestic wood up until now. Is it sapele? If so it's a dream to work with but drat does it dull blades. It's currently my wood of choice for making a bedroom set.
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May 3, 2011 14:52
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I finally finished the sign that I've been working on for my regular bar last night. It's red oak, about 31 1/2" wide by 22" tall. That DeWalt random orbit sander I bought did a nice job of smoothing out the glued up planks, it was much easier than trying to use that old piece of poo poo palm sander I had. After sanding, I laser cut a template out of 1/4" plywood and used a router to cut out the oval, then rounded over the edges. The text and images took about two hours for the laser to engrave. After engraving, I cleaned all of the sap and soot off of the face with some Murphy's oil soap, then spent another hour or so hand sanding it with 220 grit to deal with the grain that had raised up. It took about eight coats of semi-gloss poly to seal it, it sucked up the first three or four coats within minutes. It probably needed another couple coats, but I was running out of patience and it felt smooth enough to me. It'll be hanging on the wall, not like anyone's going to be touching it anyways. Lesson learned: red oak loving blows and I'm never using it ever again. If I had made this out of maple, I would have been finished weeks ago.
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May 3, 2011 17:34
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MarshallX posted:Just bought my first piece of African Mahogany! It's not genuine but I'm excited nonetheless - been using domestic wood up until now. Chiming in on the "You'll love it" train. It works beautifully, and almost any direction of cut leaves fun color and luminosity contrasts. Ribbons, flecks, whatever, I think it all looks good. If you care, here's a gallery of a table i built out of one big log of African Mahogany: http://gallery.me.com/cobalt60#100206&bgcolor=black&view=grid
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May 3, 2011 18:59
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Very nice table, thanks for sharing. Where did you buy the hardware for your turnsquares?
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May 3, 2011 20:29
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Cobalt60 posted:Chiming in on the "You'll love it" train. It works beautifully, and almost any direction of cut leaves fun color and luminosity contrasts. Ribbons, flecks, whatever, I think it all looks good. Wow, that is loving beautiful. What did you use to do the tapers on the leg?
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May 3, 2011 21:42
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jvick posted:Long story short my legs weren't cut square and didn't have a good connection with the table top and they basically fell apart. But I'm curious how long you let the glue set? Even with the quick dry Gorilla glue, I usually try to let it sit for at least a couple hours heavily clamped. If things aren't really wiggly after that I'll take a couple of the clamps off and do some gentle work to it. I used the white Gorilla glue (equivalent to Tightbond II I think) - the bottle says clamp for 30 minutes and full strength after 24 hours. I definitely had it clamped for 30 minutes - I think I didn't have enough glue to begin with, which probably didn't help. I usually use the standard polyurethane Gorilla glue, but I've been out for a while and keep forgetting to buy more.
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May 3, 2011 22:21
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Cobalt60 posted:If you care, here's a gallery of a table i built out of one big log of African Mahogany: Looks very similar to the table I built from Mahogany. I borrowed heavily from Tage Frid's dining table.
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May 4, 2011 03:10
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MarshallX posted:Very nice table, thanks for sharing. Thanks! I hate to say, but I think I just got them at WoodCraft (I don't hate the place, but definitely don't love it). I'm sure they'd be available at a specialty fasteners store, too. I really like the feature, because even some seasoned woodworkers will wonder where the metal bits are. It has an old-style look, but the result is actually quick to adjust or disassemble, while still being rock-solid when tightened down. Which reminds me, with the season change, I might go under there and loosen/re-tighten those squares, just to be sure they're not torqued somehow. stubblyhead posted:Wow, that is loving beautiful. What did you use to do the tapers on the leg? Thanks very much. I actually made a very simple (but large) plywood jig, and ripped the tapers on the table saw. I think I followed with a pass on the jointer to clean them up. If I do it again, I'd love to attempt tapering on a jointer, which seems cool, never tried it. I'm realizing I don't actually have "finished" pictures. After a light oil coat, I let it dry for a couple weeks, then did a hand-applied shellac finish. Sort of a lazy french polish. I think it really lets it shine through most viewing angles, without looking "plastic." I'll see if I can take some shots soon and post them too. In more exciting news, I think this guitar is finally, basically, roughly complete. I mean, I still need to do a final-pass set-up on it, but it's actually playable right now. I'll nervously wait to see if it actually sounds good, once it acclimates to the tension, and these new strings break in. http://gallery.me.com/cobalt60/100159/IMG_0572_2/web.jpg?ver=13043167960001 http://gallery.me.com/cobalt60/100159/IMG_0576_2/web.jpg?ver=13043167970001
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May 4, 2011 18:17
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Cobalt60 posted:Thanks very much. I actually made a very simple (but large) plywood jig, and ripped the tapers on the table saw. I think I followed with a pass on the jointer to clean them up. If I do it again, I'd love to attempt tapering on a jointer, which seems cool, never tried it. Got any pictures of the jig?
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May 4, 2011 18:19
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