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Deceptor101 posted:Never make a list longer than the first 2-3 most important things. It helps you stay positive! That way when poo poo goes wrong it can surprise you! Matte black kidneys always look good.
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May 1, 2011 22:04
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2 days, and all we broke was the front endlink mount. Luckily the tack welds were garbage on that thing so we just pounded it out and replaced it with a bolt. Never could get the rear endlinks out, probably have to pull the whole swaybar to do it.   bonus: Who is driving? 
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May 2, 2011 01:15
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I also want to share something about the 2002 that cracks me up every time I get in it because I have the sense of humor of a 6 year old. The car only has two modes of operation: halt or fahrt. Fahrting is more fun than halting, FYI. 
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May 2, 2011 02:14
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I broke my wonderful sunroof in the E46 M3 a year or so ago. Actually, I broke the shade that goes forward and backwards. I think it was a rail or something inside. The sunroof itself (if not jamming up on the something broke related to the shade) works absolutely fine. How the hell difficult is this going to be to fix? I' don't see a lot of hope in doing this easily and pray I don't have to drop a headliner or anything.  I found this and do have spare clips I bought a long time ago: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1388821 Here's to praying the driver isn't wrecked.
VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 03:49 on May 2, 2011 |
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May 2, 2011 03:40
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VibrioCholera posted:I broke my wonderful sunroof in the E46 M3 a year or so ago. Actually, I broke the shade that goes forward and backwards. I think it was a rail or something inside. The sunroof itself (if not jamming up on the something broke related to the shade) works absolutely fine. It's an easy job, go search on Bimmerfest or E46 fanatics for "sunroof clips." It's basically, pull shade back, unscrew a couple torx screws, pop sunroof out, take out old brittle and probably already demolished plastic clips, clean out and lube the tracks, install new clips, install sunroof, use credit card to check clearances and tighten torx screws.
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May 2, 2011 04:44
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Keyser S0ze posted:It's an easy job, go search on Bimmerfest or E46 fanatics for "sunroof clips." It's basically, pull shade back, unscrew a couple torx screws, pop sunroof out, take out old brittle and probably already demolished plastic clips, clean out and lube the tracks, install new clips, install sunroof, use credit card to check clearances and tighten torx screws. Pulled it apart this morning. Thank god the driver looks flawless. The only thing broke was the clip on the front driver side making it one hell of a quick fix. Time to line her up and test it out. I do love a moonroof in a car but they're usually massive hassles. In other news if you're dumb and once used an aggressive foam cutting pad and Meguiar's 105 without masking off the plastic on the roof then good news. Mr. Clean Magic Eraser quickly and easily takes off blemishes from plastic. Don't touch the paint with one though. If you use it on the blacks on your car then make sure you mask off really well. I didn't lube the small plastic rails since they didn't look lubed from the factory but I greased up what seemed to be greased before.  Probably a great reason why this stuff was broke. And because I feel like more E46 M3 need to be represented (especially Carbon Black ones  ) Random cell phone shot taken after giving her a quick runover with the PC7424XP, Meguiar's 205, Klasse AIO, and Autoglym HD Wax. I want Blackfire Wet Diamond but haven't really justified the price since I just bought a real expensive Traxxas RC car setup. Heh. edit: Drove it around the block, already dirty. Love black cars. Oh yeah, wetsanding small scratches out is amazing too. Might go pick up a fuel filter and change that. Car is an 01 with 55k on the odometer. Probably due. Needs spark plugs too but I think I may afford an Inspection II (it's first) finally. Bought it used in awesome shape. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 19:30 on May 2, 2011 |
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May 2, 2011 13:32
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My E39 seems to be an ever-expanding money pit. The rear suspension started creaking like mad, so I got it looked at. The verdict? Total suspension overhaul. Life, why do you hate me  Especially after I've replaced the cooling system.I'm not really sure if I should just sell it as is and get a lovely beater which doesn't that cost me $400 every month in maintenance costs. Goddam
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May 2, 2011 16:21
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awesome-express posted:My E39 seems to be an ever-expanding money pit. The rear suspension started creaking like mad, so I got it looked at. The verdict? Total suspension overhaul. Life, why do you hate me Maybe I'm making things up but I remember E39 5 series (and ESPECIALLY M5) being absolutely ridiculously priced. Like M-tax is pretty docile on the M3 but I remember reading about engine issues and just price in general of keeping up an 5 series / M5 being nuts. Basic stuff only costs a little more and my car isn't costing me a whole lot more than a 2001 Grand Am or something in time and parts. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 17:07 on May 2, 2011 |
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May 2, 2011 16:47
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It's pretty much true Should've bought a Yaris or something.
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May 2, 2011 16:58
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Shadowhand00 posted:Finished up changing out my Vanos seals and fixing the rattle on my car the other day. I screwed up installing the gasket though and there was oil spurting everywhere when I started up the car. Fixed that, but now I have an SES on. Could the SES have been caused by the screwed up gasket? I've read that it can also be caused by the VANOS seals breaking in, but is the gasket going to cause an SES? The SES code being thrown is P0010. Does anyone have any experience with this code? Edit: N/m, found a solution somewhere, but referencing it here in case anyone else runs into this: quote:Remove the vanos intake solenoid. Use a 32mm wrench. From car front orientation turn the wrench clockwise to remove the solenoid. Of course disconnect the solenoid electrical connector and anything else in the way like the valve cover vent tube. Shadowhand00 fucked around with this message at 01:26 on May 3, 2011 |
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May 3, 2011 01:20
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awesome-express posted:It's pretty much true If a Yaris can make you grin stupidly every time it works, and that cheap toyota interior doesn't offend, go for it. But something tells me it doesn't. What's worse: Getting depressed when you find out your awesome car requires another fix, or getting depressed every time you see your car?
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May 3, 2011 08:34
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Deceptor101 posted:If a Yaris can make you grin stupidly every time it works, and that cheap toyota interior doesn't offend, go for it. But something tells me it doesn't. Good point. Also, got another call from the shop, needs front suspension work. Total? $1100. Eh
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May 3, 2011 10:40
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awesome-express posted:Good point. Also, got another call from the shop, needs front suspension work. Total? $1100. Sounds like you need to buy a jack, stands, a set of tools and dig in! The only part of owning a BMW that makes it fun (for me ) tinkering with it and putting my own blood, sweat and tears into the work. That's all cars with me, really. It's not for everyone, though.
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May 3, 2011 12:00
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I'd love to, problem is, I live in an apartment (and am a student who is totally dependent on his parents' financial support). Hell I wish for the day when I can finally get my own garage and learn the mechanics of my car! Need to finish writing my thesis and find a decent job first, though. Oh and just got the car back from the shop. At least the rear isn't creaking like an oxcart anymore. Still need to fix up the front suspension. awesome-express fucked around with this message at 13:35 on May 3, 2011 |
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May 3, 2011 13:33
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FYI to E46 sedan owners, if you're having a problem with water getting in to the front footwells when parked in the rain, check that the rain gutter bit above the doors hasn't crept forward. You'll notice a gap between the main front piece and the bit that starts half way over the rear door. The front end will have pushed down in to the front fender. Just (carefully) release the clips holding the front bit on and slide it back where it belongs. I still haven't figured out how to stop it from happening again, but it's easy enough to check every few months.
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May 3, 2011 20:05
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My e46 coupe has an awful rattle from mid frequency bass from the stereo. Anyone know if there are any common culprits for this. Its really really bad and I must fix it.
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May 3, 2011 20:54
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Chinatown posted:My e46 coupe has an awful rattle from mid frequency bass from the stereo. Anyone know if there are any common culprits for this. Its really really bad and I must fix it. I was just looking at this thread: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=320965 which had a link to this: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/262483/2 QUoting it: quote:
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May 3, 2011 21:17
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I have what sounds like a rattle in both of my E46 doors and I replaced all the clips but the speakers show no sign of horrible wear to be rattling like that. Is it a trick on my ears and my rear sub rattling as well?
VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 21:30 on May 3, 2011 |
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May 3, 2011 21:27
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Shadowhand00 posted:http://www.cardomain.com/ride/262483/2 Awesome thanks.
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May 3, 2011 21:38
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If anyone is planning on doing the Beisan System Rattle fix anytime soon, let me know. I have the soft vice grips necessary to do the jog and I can give them to you for $10 shipped.
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May 3, 2011 21:47
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I've decided to finally ditch my 2010 STI and pick up one of the following: * 2009-2010 Certified Lexus ISF * 2008-2009 Certified M3 Specifically with the M3: * What should I be looking for or avoiding? * I would like to have the EDC which means I'm looking for an idrive model? * Is the DCT something I should avoid like the plague? Keep in mind that its highly unlikely that I will keep it past the certified warranty period.
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May 4, 2011 00:09
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allonblack posted:I've decided to finally ditch my 2010 STI and pick up one of the following: You're "finally ditching" a year old car?
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May 4, 2011 00:25
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So take a huge hit on depreciation, sell an impreza for 30k and buy a used m3 for 50k and you're asking what you should be avoiding for a car within warranty??? Cool beans dude. PS dct is the bees knees
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May 4, 2011 00:54
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Nitr0 posted:So take a huge hit on depreciation, sell an impreza for 30k and buy a used m3 for 50k and you're asking what you should be avoiding for a car within warranty??? I got a really good deal when I bought the car and would be losing a couple hundred bucks tops. Not really concerned about that. Pissingintowind posted:You're "finally ditching" a year old car? My commute went from being 15 each way minutes to 45+ each way. I've been struggling with the decision to get rid of the car since changing jobs and have just finally made the decision. Poor word placement I suppose.
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May 4, 2011 01:00
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Well there's nothing to look for if you don't plan on keeping the car after the warranty period. Find one with the options you want and buy it.
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May 4, 2011 01:02
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Nitr0 posted:Well there's nothing to look for if you don't plan on keeping the car after the warranty period. Was your comment about DCT facetious? With the commute it would be really really nice.
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May 4, 2011 01:07
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No, it wasn't. Apparently the DCT is very nice but nobody is sure how it is going to perform in the long term. So if you're going to sell it before the warranty period is up then I would definitely find one with the dual clutch tranny.
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May 4, 2011 01:19
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Shadowhand00 posted:I was just looking at this thread: Golf balls in the rear deck, just shove 'em in there through one of the speaker holes until they're wedged tightly and the rattle stops.
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May 4, 2011 01:58
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Nitr0 posted:No, it wasn't. Apparently the DCT is very nice but nobody is sure how it is going to perform in the long term. So if you're going to sell it before the warranty period is up then I would definitely find one with the dual clutch tranny. Is the DCT on a E9x different than a E46? I love the hell out of mine.
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May 4, 2011 03:26
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VibrioCholera posted:Is the DCT on a E9x different than a E46? I love the hell out of mine. The DCT is much better than the SMGII, apparently. Shifts faster and is smoother in traffic and automatic mode. It also doesn't suffer from all those pump failures like the SMGII does. I guess the main difference is the dual clutches. The gears are arranged so that as one gear is released, the next is already engaged.
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May 4, 2011 03:58
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wallaka posted:The DCT is much better than the SMGII, apparently. Shifts faster and is smoother in traffic and automatic mode. It also doesn't suffer from all those pump failures like the SMGII does. Ah. Yeah, in traffic sometimes the SMGII can be pretty jerky / not smooth. Manually going through the gears on the SMGII provides a better feel. Also the paddle shifters are useless if you're not going in a straight line. kimbo305 posted:I've heard from one guy at the track that the uncertainty of its downshift response times is unpleasant. But that may or may not be an issue after newer revisions, or for street use. The shifts in my SMGII could kill track times. You almost have to have a certain throttle touch combined with having the shifter set level 5. Otherwise it likes to just bog around sometimes. VibrioCholera fucked around with this message at 14:41 on May 4, 2011 |
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May 4, 2011 04:01
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I've heard from one guy at the track that the uncertainty of its downshift response times is unpleasant. But that may or may not be an issue after newer revisions, or for street use.
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May 4, 2011 04:07
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Chinatown posted:My e46 coupe has an awful rattle from mid frequency bass from the stereo. Anyone know if there are any common culprits for this. Its really really bad and I must fix it. I fixed it for less than $5. You go to a fabric store and get ~4 inch thick polyester batting that comes in thick mats(not that fluffy cotton ball poo poo). You remove the subwoofer from the rear deck and then stuff large chunks of that poly batting into the cavities above the subwoofer/below the rear window. Make sure to get it in there good & tight and make try to use as much as you can. It made my car go from annoying to hear bass in to marvelous sound system.
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May 4, 2011 14:37
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Thoughts on the new 5 Series? I'm looking at either a BMW 550ix or an Infiniti M56S. I like that you can get AWD on the BMW with the M-Sport package. AWD is not available on the Infiniti with the sport package. The Infiniti has an edge in HP (400 vs 420) but the BMW has some cool features like a heads up display and night vision. Styling wise I like them both although I prefer the rear end of the BMW slightly more and the interior of the Infiniti slightly more. The Infiniti is supposed to have more rear leg room but that's not too big of a deal to me since 99% of the time I'm the only one in the car. Anyway, both cars seem pretty closely matched and reviews of them seem to back that up. I'm thinking test drives will be the only way to sort this out. Mr. Apollo fucked around with this message at 17:40 on May 4, 2011 |
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May 4, 2011 17:38
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Mr. Apollo posted:Thoughts on the new 5 Series? I'm looking at either a BMW 550ix or an Infiniti M56S. I like that you can get AWD on the BMW with the M-Sport package. AWD is not available on the Infiniti with the sport package. It's worth noting that if engine power is really important to you, the 550 has a twin turbo V8, and with just a tune will produce nearly 500hp and 575 lb-ft torque.
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May 4, 2011 17:45
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Mr. Apollo posted:Anyway, both cars seem pretty closely matched and reviews of them seem to back that up. I'm thinking test drives will be the only way to sort this out. That's really the obvious thing to do. I've read that the M56 is really tail-happy and scary in the corners, but the current 5-series has a reputation for lousy steering feel and a lack of the tight dynamics and sportiness of BMWs of the past. But I've never driven either and you might find one to be perfect for you.
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May 4, 2011 18:05
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Taco Box posted:I fixed it for less than $5. Thanks. I will probably combine the bolt technique with this for an anti-rattle super slam.
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May 4, 2011 18:44
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wallaka posted:The DCT is much better than the SMGII, apparently. Shifts faster and is smoother in traffic and automatic mode. It also doesn't suffer from all those pump failures like the SMGII does. To expand on this, the SMG-II as seen in the E46 is the exact same six speed manual transmission you'd get if you chose to row your own gears, just with a computer controlled electro-hydraulic system operating the clutch and changing gears. It's actually incorrectly named as it is not a sequential transmission, just an automated manual, but that's an irrelevant diversion. The M-DCT is better thought of as two three speed transmissions operating side-by-side (this is not how it's actually physically built, but the logical operation is the same). One has 1st, 3rd, and 5th, the other has 2nd, 4th, and 6th. Each sub-transmission (I don't know if there is a better name for this) has it's own clutch, so at any given time one is in use and the other will be placed in whatever gear the transmission thinks you're most likely to shift in to next based on speed, throttle position, etc. When it comes time to change gear, if the computer guessed right all it has to do is disengage one clutch, rev-match as needed, and engage the other, allowing an ideal shift to be faster than is physically possible to achieve with any other transmission. If it guesses wrong it'll be significantly slower as it has to actually change gears, but it still should be at least as good as any automated manual. I'd imagine the most common problem on the track would be if you're reaching the braking zone for a corner while near the top of the RPM range for whatever gear you're in. The computer sees this and figured you'll probably want the next gear, then you stomp on the fat pedal and ask it to drop a gear or two. Now not only is it in the wrong spot, but if you want to go down two gears it has to shift the in use sub-transmission. If you delay between the two downshift inputs as well, it might already be working on a single gear downshift and then do the second one after that. The best solution I've heard so far which may have been implemented by someone already is to allow the driver to signal his/her intent to the transmission by pulling and holding the appropriate paddle, then it would shift once the paddle is released. Obviously this only works well if you have paddles which rotate with the wheel, otherwise it would be hard to do if you have to turn at all before the shift. BMW has also announced that the next 7 series will use GPS and other sensors available on the car to try to "learn" the road and predict gear changes. I'd imagine a similar technology could be applied to the M cars with race tracks, so the car could know you're on a given straight, at the end of which you'll be going in to a hairpin turn and likely will need to end up in X gear. As for the low-speed jerkiness, that's all in the clutch control. Unless the clutch actuator on the SMG-II is somehow badly designed there's no reason a DCT should be any smoother, but if the SMG-II has a bad control program which BMW has never bothered to update it could certainly be a point of difference. I have never driven or ridden in a vehicle with a plain automated manual and my DCT experience is limited to an '09 GTI so I can't directly comment on the transmissions in question, but at least in that vehicle I had to actively try to get it to misbehave at low speed. I have not heard any notable complaints about this on DCTs or modern AMTs, where SMG-II and Lambo's older E-Gear (which I think was also sold as R-Tronic on R8s) were supposedly rather bad. Short version: DCT is on paper as good as it gets until someone figures out how to make CVTs handle power, but in certain cases such as the track it simply does not have enough inputs to make the right choices for optimum performance, plus there are situations where being able to control exactly how fast the clutch is going to apply is very beneficial. There are also long-term durability and maintenance concerns since these are a relatively new type of transmission which few people know how to work on. For a car which will see a lot of track time or will be kept long past when the warranty expires it's probably not a great choice, otherwise I'd recommend it. It's certainly better than any traditional automatic.
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May 4, 2011 21:43
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I've come across an interesting twist in my E46 330i/Ci hunt. A coworker of mine, who I trust a fair amount, runs a small used car dealership on the side, partially so he can rotate the cars he drives frequently for very little cost. This means that he has a dealer license and has access to dealer auctions, and has offered to give me access to auction listings and to buy one for me essentially at cost. Of course the downside is I'd be getting a car at auction without any real test drive, inspection, probably little/no records, or face-to-face with the PO. Assuming that one of the first things I'd do would be to take it to the most reputable independent German shop in town and get it inspected and freshened up with the money I'd be saving (potentially several thousand dollars), do you guys think it is worth the risk? I'm kind of on the fence about it and could use some input/experience. Anyone have any great/terrible stories of buying at auction? He's done the same process for a couple of my other coworkers (including an E90 328xi and an Audi S6), and they all seem to be pretty happy with their purchases. Guinness fucked around with this message at 23:25 on May 4, 2011 |
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May 4, 2011 23:11
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Guinness posted:Anyone have any great/terrible stories of buying at auction? Many many many used cars come from auctions now days. Not to much to worry about though because your not buying an M3 or anything with a ton of complications. If the price is right, go for it. Just don't get caught up in a bidding frenzy, and potentially lose any savings that could be gained. I have been to one of these auctions your talking about... what a sea of econo-boxes with a few unusual cars mixed in.
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May 4, 2011 23:20
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