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stubblyhead posted:Got any pictures of the jig? Probably not, but I should emphasize "simple as hell." It was made from three plywood scraps -- one base, one that set the angle (screwed to the base), and one small scrap that tailed the piece, and ran through the blade. With that, one hand pushed the jig and piece through the blade, and the other lightly kept it against the fence. It looked scrappy and maybe even unsafe, but it was fine for the handful of cuts it was made for.
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May 5, 2011 00:59
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 12:56 |
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Well, we put the last two coats on the living room floor today. We finished it exactly the same as the oak floor (this is maple though) and this is what we got. . . (click for bigger)    Pretty glossy! We did three coats of Varathane brand Diamond interior polyurethane. Water bases and Satin finish. The last two coats on top were done with this stuff.  Varathane brand indoor Polyurethane, Water based, Satin Floor Finish. Those floors do not look satin! And what's strange is that my mom spilled just a little on the oak floor we already did, (the exact same can we used to do that last two coats on it) and the spill is not only glossy, but it looks like it's sitting on top of the oak floor. So we're going to have to do another coat on the oak to get rid to the two glossy spots. Anyone know what the hell? I'm thinking, since the oak is more porous, it absorbed the finish better, and now that it's completely dried and sealed, this stuff is now able to sit on top of the oak and show off it's gloss. Either way, I'm pretty happy how it's turning out since this is the same floor before we started (right side). 
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May 5, 2011 02:34
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If your day job doesn't work out, I think you have a safe backup. Those floors look amazing! In other news (not that I can top those floors), I'm so happy I finally put a finish on one of my tables. As a novice woodworker I was intimidated to do this and sand between coats, and all that. I used a polyurethane sealant and I absolutely LOVE the way it brought out the yellow color of the pine and highlighted the grain of the wood. I will definitely be finishing a lot more pieces in the future. It just adds a whole other level to the piece. Grain Detail  
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May 5, 2011 19:48
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/\/\ Don't worry about about your current skill, I could never compete with 1/50 the guys in here for talent. Anyways, you get better with time, practice, and just hanging around here seeing what everyone else does and picking up all the tricks of the trade. My next project is going to be something along the lines of this coffee table since I have a nearly inexhaustible supply of barnwood.  Looks to be an easy project. After that, I might redo the stairs and railing in Oak, to match the front floor I posted earlier. As they are right now.  My Kitchen floor (one more coat and done):  Looking out of kitchen towards sun room with oak floor:  My favourite board. That grain and 3D wavy effect just make me crazy.  I filled a lot of gouges, cracks, and larger gaps, but I didn't want to get carried away and make it look like a laminate floor. My house is old, and I really enjoy the character that these floors have. There are some spots where it gets darker, lighter, or some manner of blemish in the wood, but I wasn't interested in removing 1/4" of wood to try and make it look perfect. Also if there are no character marks, whenever something does happen to the floor it sticks out like a sore thumb.
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May 5, 2011 22:25
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I believe that all varnish/poly starts off as gloss but impurities (I want to say silica) are added to reduce the gloss down to satin or whatever; so the wood itself should not have any effect on the luster.
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May 6, 2011 17:35
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I just find it weird that 3 coats of satin Poly = not too much gloss. Then another two coats of Satin Floor finish poly = not too much gloss. Buuuut! One more coat of the exact same floor finish = Super gloss. That was with the Oak flooring. With the Maple it was glossy right from the third coat (regular poly) and continued to stay gloss after the two final coats (floor finish poly).
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May 6, 2011 18:53
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The flattening agents settle to the bottom of the can, if it wasn't stirred well before hand then you would be using the full gloss.
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May 6, 2011 23:08
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Blistex posted:My favourite board. That grain and 3D wavy effect just make me crazy. You keep referring to this floor as Oak, but this looks a lot like hard maple to me. Maybe it's the light or angle, but there doesn't seem to be the typical oak-y pore structure.
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May 7, 2011 00:13
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Cobalt60 posted:You keep referring to this floor as Oak, but this looks a lot like hard maple to me. Maybe it's the light or angle, but there doesn't seem to be the typical oak-y pore structure. There are two different floors. The maple (here) and the oak (earlier).
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May 7, 2011 01:28
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I've had a pretty productive week in the shop. Last Friday, I went over to check out a house that will soon be for sale. The people selling it were having a garage sale and I noticed my Mom was checking out this old table made from a set of sewing machine legs. It was in bad shape and she evidently decided it would be too much work to fix up. I went back the next day and bought it for $15. I disassembled it, cleaned up the legs and repainted them. While the paint was drying, I made a new top from some cherry I had laying around. At the last minute, I decided to add a walnut inlay (something I've never done before). I think it turned out pretty well - I'm going to give it to her for Mother's Day tomorrow.  The other project I (finally) got started is a toybox / blanket chest for my niece who will be 1 next month. I finished the design in CAD last weekend, and managed to plane all the lumber one night this week. I lucked out and had some really nice wide cherry boards so I only had to glue up two pieces for the sides. When I had everything planed and rough cut, I realized that some of my nice wide boards were twisted pretty badly, but I forged ahead. I routed all the dovetails this afternoon - I learned an important lesson too. Always make sure the fingers on your dovetail jig are tight. I was midway though routing the pins on one board and I saw one start to move. I had no idea where it was supposed to be in the pattern (and had already routed some of the pins in that position), so I estimated to the best of my ability and kept going. When I went to assemble the case (already an interesting endeavor since the panels were twisted slightly), I had one pin socket that was two narrow on both sides of a board. This was frustrating, to say the least, but I figured out where it was and hand cut the pin socket to fit (this means I'm telling everyone this blanket chest has "hand cut dovetails"). I've got it glued up and clamped right now on the saw. Another important lesson - "you can never have too many clamps". I used all of my Cabinet Masters and four pipe clamps. I still have a few pipe clamps left, but I decided not to get too crazy on the clamping.  Definitely earned my beer tonight. LordOfThePants fucked around with this message at 01:40 on May 8, 2011 |
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May 8, 2011 01:37
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LordOfThePants posted:I've had a pretty productive week in the shop. It looks fantastic! You are a good son.
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May 8, 2011 04:06
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So my girlfriend and I just purchased a beautiful antique teak table a few weeks ago and I think I just gave it it's first stain... I set a gas lamp on it after filling the lamp and I think some of the alcohol ate through the finish of the table leaving a ring. When we bought the table the antiques dealer who had just had it refinished told us not to use pledge or anything like that on it and just to clean it with water. Is there a polish or wax that I can try to remove or lessen the mark? edit: here are photos of the table, the antique dealer said it was custom built for the people whose estate he bought it from, it doesn't have any designers markings on it so I'm assuming he's right. The drop-leaves can be lifted off to make the table square and there's another leaf to make it a ridiculously long banquet table. (chairs are temporary, we're looking for some good matching mid-century chairs.)    
MMD3 fucked around with this message at 18:56 on May 9, 2011 |
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May 9, 2011 16:48
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MMD3 posted:and I think some of the alcohol ate through the finish of the table leaving a ring If it is from alcohol then you have a shellac finish, in which case it can be repaired. I would recommend you hire someone to repair it, probably the dealer from whom you bought it can help you out. If you want to try it yourself, new shellac will melt into the old shellac but you'll need to use a fine cloth and thin with alcohol. wormil fucked around with this message at 23:06 on May 9, 2011 |
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May 9, 2011 23:03
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wormil posted:If it is from alcohol then you have a shellac finish, in which case it can be repaired. I would recommend you hire someone to repair it, probably the dealer from whom you bought it can help you out. If you want to try it yourself, new shellac will melt into the old shellac but you'll need to use a fine cloth and thin with alcohol. sheeeit  was hoping it'd be like "buy this product, rub in..."good to know it's a shellac finish then, any recommendations on other things I shouldn't set on it?
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May 9, 2011 23:24
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MMD3 posted:sheeeit Well it is basically that, buy shellac and alcohol and rub it in but shellac comes in different colors, most common are blonde, orange and garnet, from lightest to darkest. There are a number of guides on the internet if you want to try it. The nice thing is that you really can't gently caress it up permanently without doing something drastic and you'll probably want to test a small area on the bottom to make sure it is shellac. Always use coasters, place mats and hot pads. Shellac is durable but not so tough as lacquer or varnish.
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May 9, 2011 23:53
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Yeah, look back in the thread a little for tips on french polishing. the cool hing about shellac is that it's one of the few finishes that amalgamates with itself, making repair of the finish much easier than other top-coats. The lovely part is that you'll never ever allow anyone to set a martini on that thing after you're satisfied with your first repair. (Basically no alcohol that can spill ever, and do not allow water to sit for long periods. Also a hot plate fresh out of the microwave will do pretty much the same thing you posted a picture of. Ask me how I know this. Coasters and trivets are your new best friends...)
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May 10, 2011 07:55
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Alright, so now that I feel I have some experience under my belt. I am designing my next project to be a bed frame for a friend of mine. I plan to use box joints for the corners of the sideboards, and dado's for all of the edging supports to slide into. I'd like to use redwood for the legs and sides, and oak for the supports. Where I'm lost is for the slats across the middle (below in magenta). They're going to be about 5' long and not have a whole lot of center support. I'm wondering if you guys have suggestions for what type of wood I should use. In my plans I'm thinking a piece 3" wide by about 1/2 - 3/4" thick. Would Red Oak from Home Depot be strong enough? Do you guys think I should glue/screw one piece down the middle underneath the slats just for extra support? excuse the child art skills...  Appreciate any advice. e: I plan on screwing plywood down to the top of these to create a solid layer for the mattress to sit on. jvick fucked around with this message at 01:56 on May 12, 2011 |
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May 12, 2011 01:53
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jvick posted:Alright, so now that I feel I have some experience under my belt. I am designing my next project to be a bed frame for a friend of mine. I plan to use box joints for the corners of the sideboards, and dado's for all of the edging supports to slide into. I'd like to use redwood for the legs and sides, and oak for the supports. Where I'm lost is for the slats across the middle (below in magenta). They're going to be about 5' long and not have a whole lot of center support. I'm wondering if you guys have suggestions for what type of wood I should use. In my plans I'm thinking a piece 3" wide by about 1/2 - 3/4" thick. Would Red Oak from Home Depot be strong enough? Do you guys think I should glue/screw one piece down the middle underneath the slats just for extra support? 3/4" thick slats at 3" wide with a solid sheet of plywood over top should be fine to support the bed as long as there's sufficient support along the sides. Remember, the box frame is exactly that, a box frame. There's a lot of mattress support from just that. Look at a metal mattress frame sometime and you'll see two, maybe three slats between the rails. It's because most of the support comes from the rails themselves as well as the box frame on top. Putting that aside for a moment, you realize that a 2 foot tall bed frame with another 1.5 to 2 feet is going to require that your friend is either inhumanly tall or a pole vaulter, right? Even someone 6'0" will have to jump up a good 6 inches to make solid rear end-mattress contact. Consider dropping the leg height to a foot, max. e: and consider using dovetails for the joints. They're strong and attractive and you can never have enough practice making them.
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May 12, 2011 07:47
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Lots of people don't use a box spring. If going without a box frame is the plan, that bed height is pretty reasonable.
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May 12, 2011 07:54
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sixide posted:Lots of people don't use a box spring. If going without a box frame is the plan, that bed height is pretty reasonable. I'd say box spring/frame mattresses are worth it for the stability and comfort they provide but even without one that's a 2.5 foot tall bed which is a bit high for someone in the 5'-5'6" range (short-ish dudes, most women) so I'd still recommend shortening it by 6 inches to a foot but to each their own, I suppose. Something else to consider is the possibility of adding integrated storage bins or drawers, especially if the height remains on the tall side.
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May 12, 2011 09:03
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sixide posted:Lots of people don't use a box spring. If going without a box frame is the plan, that bed height is pretty reasonable. This. He doesn't have a box spring and the rough measurement of the mattress is 12" high. Total height ~3' - and he's 6'4". THe reason for the height is that my buddy is into RC planes and has a couple that have 50"+ wing spans that he'd like to be able to store the bodies underneath his bed. He lives in a small studio so storage is important. ie:  Appreciate the feedback fellas. jvick fucked around with this message at 16:13 on May 12, 2011 |
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May 12, 2011 16:10
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jvick posted:I'm wondering if you guys have suggestions for what type of wood I should use. In my plans I'm thinking a piece 3" wide by about 1/2 - 3/4" thick. Would Red Oak from Home Depot be strong enough? Do you guys think I should glue/screw one piece down the middle underneath the slats just for extra support? 1x4 pine should be plenty to support that bed combined with the plywood, and probably half the price of that oak. On my king bed I did have a center rib to offer more support, but it also had a fifth leg in the middle to support that. Given the storage requirements it sounds like you won't be able to have that center leg.
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May 12, 2011 21:09
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straw_ewe posted:1x4 pine should be plenty to support that bed combined with the plywood, and probably half the price of that oak. Yeah, I was trying to avoid a center leg, so that's why I wanted to use a hardwood that wouldn't flex so much. I thought about doing pine with a spine down the middle. I'm hoping that the ply will help distribute the load of the mattress and body weight so it doesn't dip too much in the middle. This is only a full mattress, so I figure a 5' piece of oak (or maybe pine?) shouldn't flex too much over that length.
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May 12, 2011 23:23
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Put an oak board down the middle (obviously on it's side) to support the supports. You'll probably get away with the pine and ply working just fine, but there is nothing that ruins a good sleep (and a mattress) more than a dip in the middle.
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May 13, 2011 13:41
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Finished my first project! Read all 70 pages of this thread, watched a bunch of wood whisperer videos, then made these for my mom for mother's day. Luckily the gf's dad has a nice little shop I was able to use for the jointing and planing.  No WD-40, wood stain, or hammers were used in the making of those cutting boards haha. I did use white oak instead of hard maple which was a mistake, but the salad bowl finish on it helped seal up the pores. Well, I've definitely got bitten by the bug. I've been hunting on craigslist state wide looking for a jointer for weeks now, and tried to buy a few, but haven't been able to snag one yet. I know we have a bunch of guys in the triad/triangle area, anyone have a 6-8" jointer for sale? funkatron3000 fucked around with this message at 19:28 on May 14, 2011 |
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May 13, 2011 14:52
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Those cutting boards are nice. That is some beautiful wood. On that bed frame, I would suggest not making the corner joints permanent. If he ever has to move the bed (like to a new place), it'll be much easier if it breaks down into four pieces. I used some special hardware made specifically for this purpose when I built my bed. I don't have slats down the frame to support the box spring, although I do have.a center bar/leg since it is a king and has two box frames. Also do what you can to find a local hardwood supplier that is not one of the home centers. You pay a serious premium for shrink wrapped wood.
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May 14, 2011 00:10
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LordOfThePants posted:Those cutting boards are nice. That is some beautiful wood. What hardware did you use to hook the different pieces together? This is a good point that I hadn't thought about. Also, I have another place that I'd like to buy the lumber from but they're only open M-F until 5pm, so... funkatron3000 posted:Finished my first project! Read all 70 pages of this thread, watched a bunch of wood whisperer videos, then made these for my mom for mother's day. Luckily the gf's dad has a nice little shop I was able to use for the jointing and planing. Very nice! I've been wanting to do that project as well from TWW. Glad to see you're getting into the hobby and best of all enjoying it!
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May 14, 2011 00:31
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MMD3 posted:Awesome table. You jelly? FTFY and yes I am. It's a nice one. You should consider a nice thick table cloth for when you're eating.
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May 14, 2011 00:32
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jvick posted:What hardware did you use to hook the different pieces together? This is a good point that I hadn't thought about. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10 Both Rockler and Lee Valley sell bed hardware, you should be able to find something that will work for you design.
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May 14, 2011 11:48
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So, I am brand new to woodworking. My grandfather is what some would consider a "master" woodworker and I've decided to carry on his legacy. Currently my equipment is very limited. I bought an older craftsman table saw and I am getting a router table later this week. I built this plant stand last weekend as a simple starter project:  Next I'm going to build the end grain cutting board that I have seen in this thread. My one question is what piece of equipment or tool would be the most important or useful to buy next? I can see a major need for a miter saw. mds2 fucked around with this message at 15:34 on May 17, 2011 |
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May 17, 2011 15:32
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No need for a miter saw in particular, a table saw will be just fine. Here's the video How To from The Wood Whisperer: Part I Part II
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May 17, 2011 17:09
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jvick posted:No need for a miter saw in particular, a table saw will be just fine. I watched those last night, and just FYI he has an iphone app which is pretty cool. I will probably make a cross cut sled soon. Gramps said a scroll saw would be handy to have.
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May 17, 2011 17:21
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A scroll saw would be so much further down my list than, say, a bandsaw. If you're just looking to fill space with handy-once-in-a-while tools, sure, get a scroll saw. Maybe grab a lathe, too. If you want something that you will use all the time? Get a nice band saw.
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May 17, 2011 17:25
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Bad Munki posted:A scroll saw would be so much further down my list than, say, a bandsaw. If you're just looking to fill space with handy-once-in-a-while tools, sure, get a scroll saw. Maybe grab a lathe, too. If you want something that you will use all the time? Get a nice band saw. Are there any table top band saws that are worth a poo poo and wont break the bank?
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May 17, 2011 17:30
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Depends on the bank, really.
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May 17, 2011 17:32
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Bad Munki posted:Depends on the bank, really. You're right.
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May 17, 2011 17:32
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Sorry, I was editing my post to be more useful, but you were too fast. :P Personally, I'd buy a floor model, as your options increase tenfold. I'd have on now, if my stupid garage was wired for more juice than two light bulbs and a small hairdryer. Get one that comes with built in wheels and you can even tuck it away when you're done with it. I say this as someone who has crammed his entire shop into a tiny .75 car garage, along with a lawnmower and two motorcycles. It is not comfortable, but being able to roll your large items around is more valuable than you can imagine until you've had to do it.  But really, the question still stands, what sort of bank are we talking about? Is $1000 too much? $500? $100? "Managing expectations," and all that. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 17:44 on May 17, 2011 |
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May 17, 2011 17:34
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mds2 posted:I watched those last night, and just FYI he has an iphone app which is pretty cool. I will probably make a cross cut sled soon. Yeah, it's pretty cool! I actually found the app before his website. Good luck with the board!
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May 17, 2011 17:51
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Bad Munki posted:Sorry, I was editing my post to be more useful, but you were too fast. :P I have the same power issues in my garage and not a lot of space either. I really enjoy metal working and have built several large smokers, but because the only way I can get more power is to have new service ran underground to my house it isnt a convenient hobby. 220 just isnt an option for me nor is adding more outlets as my panel is full, even with space saver breakers. So, at least for now, a table top saw is what I will need. Maybe something under $200, as I'm just starting out and there is undoubtedly other equipment I need to buy. I need to spread my money around the best I can and still get adequate stuff. The problem i'm running into today is finding a place to buy hardwood board, ugh.
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May 17, 2011 19:14
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Unless you're in central Iowa, I can't really help much with that last one.  I hear good things about delta, you may be able to get one in that price range. Craigslist is your friend, but be wary when possible. Better to spend an extra $100 now than $200 later to fix up a saw (that may not even be fix-up-able.)
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May 17, 2011 20:45
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