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Robot Uprising posted:While attempting to get all my Orks up to a decent standard for an upcoming doubles tournament. I've tried to spruce up some old Deffcoptas without resorting to fully stripping them; any criticisms? Id love a critical eye to see where I need to improve. Looks like a good start. I'd add some more of the red/orange to the back end of the kopta to give some contrast back there. The front end and blades look great
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May 8, 2011 19:58
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 09:55 |
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Also shamelessly cross posting from the oath thread Tervigon     I think I'm having trouble with two types of light bulbs causing that warm hue on the right. Other than that any thoughts? edit: table breaking Mt. ORourke fucked around with this message at 21:03 on May 8, 2011 |
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May 8, 2011 20:16
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Mt. ORourke posted:
Looks good, maybe paint some veins on the egg sacs? Also your base is a bit boring, needs some terrain or grass or something to break up the empty space.
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May 8, 2011 20:20
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Try to add some shadows beneath the carapace behind the neck, where the blue and beige start to translate. It's noticable in the shots, though perhaps less so in person?
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May 8, 2011 20:34
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Thanks for the tips! I agree on both counts. I added some grass to the base, but it's still a bit boring. Shadows behind the neck is a good idea. My attempt at green stuff there (connecting the carnifex carapace to the trygon torso) didn't go as well as I had hoped, and it shows in the painting I think. The good news at least is that it's out of view except from that exact angle, so it's not too obvious
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May 8, 2011 21:02
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Mr_Happy_Pants posted:Update on Terminus. Insides of wings are done: Ham left in the fridge for 6+ months.
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May 9, 2011 02:35
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Interesting new project I've been working on. Designed a custom flying monster that I'm going to use as a flying hive tyrant replacement, and had it 3d printed. It's only been inked at this stage but I figured it was worth showing off to get feedback.   Pretty pleased so far, but I didn't luck out on available materials. The site I sell/print these through added a new, extra detailed material about an hour after this one arrived. Oh what could have been....
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May 9, 2011 06:54
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This model is all about teaching myself how to use the airbrush for something other than standard basecoating. So far I've learned a lot about thinning and the usefulness of retarder, and just how badly dry bits of thinner will gently caress up your brush. Still, that's kind of the point. The paint's going on a bit wet at the moment, which is either me spraying too close, or having the paint flow too high. Either way, that's why the coat is a bit patchy, I didn't want to flood the model on the first coat. Hopefully you can see that the thinner (20:1) blue is giving a finer spray than the thicker (1:1) black. In future I think I'll do the preshading with something along the lines of a 10:1 mix and a psi of ~10 to let me get finer lines, and a softer black. TLDR: Work in progress of my oath for this month.  
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May 9, 2011 07:42
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Robot Uprising posted:While attempting to get all my Orks up to a decent standard for an upcoming doubles tournament. I've tried to spruce up some old Deffcoptas without resorting to fully stripping them; any criticisms? Id love a critical eye to see where I need to improve. On the back of the koppter I would suggest painting some parts tin bitz or maybe bronze. Helps bring out the details in the metal gubbins when there is more than one color of metal, can also make the occasional part your army color (red/orange). Oh, and here is my oath since there might be three posters from here that don't watch the oaths, and the oath thread for some reason is not really a discussion thread.  Only a lovely image of their backs when I finished them, how could I forget to take a pic of their backs in the lightbox?!? The difference in the two images really lets me appreciate having a lightbox   Their engines are, Bunch of random bits (some metal bit I got from PV a looong time ago, part of a storm boy pack and the exhaust from a GW city building), A wind-up key and an old Dark Eldar bit (no idea what it is) and the chopped up foot board of a SM bike to use the exhausts. Slightly different angle:    ^^Should have shot this pic in IMAX 3D (note* looted Eldar wep has all 6 barrels drilled) Loving how these grots look! (for me this is good)   Gretchen green, devlan mud, Gretchen green again. Not bad skin for 3 steps.
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May 9, 2011 08:25
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will blow your mind.
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artfulshrapnel posted:Interesting new project I've been working on. Designed a custom flying monster that I'm going to use as a flying hive tyrant replacement, and had it 3d printed. It's only been inked at this stage but I figured it was worth showing off to get feedback. drat, I've been wondering about 3D printed minis for ages... what sort of cost do you reckon for custom 30mm models? I'm thinking about made-to-order D&D character figures here.
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May 9, 2011 11:28
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^^ you are going to have a hard time getting human faces and other fine details to come out well at 30mm from my understanding. You may better off looking at doing something that can be combined with a few cast bits from GW or wherever. shapeways frosted ultra detail is 4.39 for 1 cm^3, and they have a quote feature if you supply a 3d model. artfulshrapnel posted:Interesting new project I've been working on. Designed a custom flying monster that I'm going to use as a flying hive tyrant replacement, and had it 3d printed. It's only been inked at this stage but I figured it was worth showing off to get feedback. shapeways?
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May 9, 2011 12:06
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Yeah, this is the impression that I have from reading up on stuff (there's a good thread in DIY and Hobbies about 3D printing, actually). I've seen some drat impressive detail, but nothing from easily-commercially-available sources at present. However, the idea of printing the bulky parts and rounding the details out with bought parts is one I hadn't thought of, and which is probably the most viable current method. 5 or 10 years from now though, who knows... That being said, the head of the mini shown there has some impressive detail already - and personally, I'd prefer something which is a little flat but has the accoutrements and general appearance of my character, than playing a dragonborn greatspear user with a human halberdier mini... I'd pay good money for that sort of thing. If I had any.
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May 9, 2011 12:24
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:This model is all about teaching myself how to use the airbrush for something other than standard basecoating. So how do you get a finer spray? Whenever I do it there are always big dots of paint where I spray so I gave up trying to do blends and stuff early on, and just use it to basecoat. Was my paint not thinned enough?
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May 9, 2011 15:30
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Mr_Happy_Pants posted:Update on Terminus. Insides of wings are done: Ugh that is just so loving gross. good job.
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May 9, 2011 17:15
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thespaceinvader posted:drat, I've been wondering about 3D printed minis for ages... what sort of cost do you reckon for custom 30mm models? I'm thinking about made-to-order D&D character figures here. Me and a couple guys got together and started up a shop with that kind of stuff in mind, actually. We haven't worked out a good way to blanket price the modeling yet, since we only had a couple orders and they're wildly disparate. Printing a typical human mini is like $4, modeling takes a anywhere from 1-6 hours depending on how much customization needs to be done... http://www.shapeways.com/model/245666/witch_miniature.html?gid=sg71173 is one we threw together for my girlfriend's character. I went a bit overboard on detail to see what would actually come out... Simpo posted:shapeways? Yep. They're the best on the market price-wise, though their turn time leaves something to be desired. (10 working days, unless they hit a snag)
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May 9, 2011 18:58
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Looks pretty cool - but I guess the kicker is modelling. In that situation, I'd almost be inclined to work something up myself, but modelling is not my strong suit. What would shipping be, roughly? e: to UK, speed not specially an issue, but air freight definitely.
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May 9, 2011 19:26
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Glad you guys like the wings. Another update: 
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May 9, 2011 19:30
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thespaceinvader posted:Looks pretty cool - but I guess the kicker is modelling. In that situation, I'd almost be inclined to work something up myself, but modelling is not my strong suit. Shapeways is based in the Netherlands, and shipping is free (included in the print cost) to anywhere in the U.S. or E.U. as far as I know. They have a $25 (USD) minimum order, but I've never found that too much of a disincentive. EDIT: Holy crap. That looks awesome, Happy Pants. Loving the detail on the wings and face. Is that some puffy 19th century (shakespere/columbus/etc) sleeve I see on his right arm? artfulshrapnel fucked around with this message at 19:37 on May 9, 2011 |
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May 9, 2011 19:35
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artfulshrapnel posted:Me and a couple guys got together and started up a shop with that kind of stuff in mind, actually. We haven't worked out a good way to blanket price the modeling yet, since we only had a couple orders and they're wildly disparate. Printing a typical human mini is like $4, modeling takes a anywhere from 1-6 hours depending on how much customization needs to be done... This stuff is pretty awesome. How did the character actually come out when printed? I have been pretty tempted to try something like this myself with Shapeways, but most of the stuff I need is a one-off conversion piece or the like, and my greenstuffing skills (though lacking) are substantially better than my 3d modeling skills.
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May 9, 2011 19:36
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Sweet. Having a look over these, the res is pretty astonishing in places. http://www.shapeways.com/model/148756/terran_powered_infantry_squad.html?gid=mg in particular makes me think that with good painting, a mini made from that service, especially in the new ultra detailed material claiming to have 0.1mm resolution, would be perfectly fine. http://www.shapeways.com/model/41819/thief_miniature.html?gid=mg too. According to the dimensions, it's perfectly playable at 28mm, and the resolution is far better than what I would have expected. I could see a respectable business in custom-designed minis. Even bigger if there was a decent painted on board. I know having chatted to some guys in my D&D group there are plenty of people who would pay good money to have a custom mini. The issue, I guess, is that the startup costs are large - once you have working frameworks for the sorts of minis you'd like to produce, you could customise them fairly quickly, but getting a good set of frameworks together would take some time. My brain is now in gear on this, and I'll not be able to stop thinking about it for ages >.<
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May 9, 2011 19:38
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Ashcans posted:This stuff is pretty awesome. How did the character actually come out when printed? Dunno how it came out yet, still in production. They got slammed with 3 or 4 months' worth of orders when they released their new material. Apparently this has caused a slight backlog. :] If you're looking for an easy way to get into 3D modeling for miniature making, can I recommend playing with SketchUp? It's only suitable for mechanical modeling, but it's quite simple to use and pretty powerful. (the drones on the custombitz store were made with it) Edit: @thespaceinvader - it's worth noting that the thief miniature isn't showing off any prints. It's a really nice model, but you can't be sure the renders he's got there faithfully represent how much detail will show up in the final print. Looks like it should come out pretty well though. If anyone's got questions about this stuff but don't want to clutter up the thread, feel free to AIM me or email me. (my website, linked in my profile, has my email address) artfulshrapnel fucked around with this message at 19:53 on May 9, 2011 |
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May 9, 2011 19:41
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crime fighting hog posted:So how do you get a finer spray? Whenever I do it there are always big dots of paint where I spray so I gave up trying to do blends and stuff early on, and just use it to basecoat. Was my paint not thinned enough? Could be that you weren't using enough pressure (up it and spray from further away), or there was a build up of crap on the needle, but most likely it was that your paint is too thick. Using Vallejo thinner you can go down to 20-25 drops of thinner to every 1 drop of GW paint. You probably want to add in a drop of drying retarder as well to reduce build up on the needle, which also leads to spitting.
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May 9, 2011 19:44
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artfulshrapnel posted:Dunno how it came out yet, still in production. They got slammed with 3 or 4 months' worth of orders when they released their new material. Apparently this has caused a slight backlog. :] I've actually used 3d modeling software before (Solid Edge) and liked it a lot. I have tried messing with Sketchup, but I found it sort of awkward to use, and it seems like you need a ton of plugins to get the necessary functionality out of it. Mostly all my modeling experience is with parametic software, and it's a real pain to re-learn. I'm not sure there is any useful parametric modeling software out there that you don't have to pay a good bit for, either.  Those drones are pretty impressive, though. Do you have a specific set of plugins you use on Sketch up?
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May 9, 2011 19:54
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The only modelling software I ever tried was Blender, and it broke my brain on two very simple, very non-taxing models. I used it to get perspectives for awkward technical items in drawings. I wouldn't relish the idea of trying to model something for D&D. Not to mention that my processor would probably melt. But a man can dream. About having the money for this sort of thing, as much as anything >.<
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May 9, 2011 19:59
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Holy crap, I cannot get my brain around how inexpensive that shapeways stuff is VVV Yeah, and in Europe at that VVV Dr Hemulen fucked around with this message at 20:50 on May 9, 2011 |
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May 9, 2011 20:40
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I know, right? Four quid for a custom-designed mini. Yes please. Well, yes please once I am in gainful employment.
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May 9, 2011 20:47
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Mr_Happy_Pants posted:Glad you guys like the wings. Another update: Those wings have been universally decried as one of the worst things to be sculpted by Privateer Press by many people (both in this thread and outside of it). You, however, make the sculpt look great.
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May 9, 2011 21:22
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I reduced the paint flow to take away some of the wetness issues, and managed almost two full coats in less time than it took me to do one yesterday. If only I hadn't run out of paint. The shading is really begining to settle in now I think. Second coat:  Third coat (top's still only got two, shine is down to it being wet):  I think four to six coats total will see the basecoat done.
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May 10, 2011 04:41
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:I think four to six coats total will see the basecoat done. This is lookin' pretty fly, buddy.
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May 10, 2011 04:55
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artfulshrapnel posted:Dunno how it came out yet, still in production. They got slammed with 3 or 4 months' worth of orders when they released their new material. Apparently this has caused a slight backlog. :] out of interest, how smooth are the surfaces on the stuff you get? One thing I notice about a lot of 3d prints is that they can have a slightly rough texture.
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May 10, 2011 06:22
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I don't recall if this has shown up here before or not: http://colors.silicon-dragons.com/full_line.php It is a comprehensive online paint matching tool. OP material possibly?
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May 10, 2011 14:07
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That tank is looking pretty sweet, Joe. I was a little confused by what you were doing to start with, but now I understand it looks like it's coming together well. Keep us posted!
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May 10, 2011 14:17
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Hell yeah, it is great watching this come along, Joe. Making me want to buy an airbrush. This is probably my favourite thread on SA along with the Oath thread, and I hope you dudes don't mind, but I have been going through my old photobucket account where I have albums with a few of my old armies that I sold off to fund whatever took my fancy next, and I would like to show some of it off. I really wish I still owned these Tyranids. This was my second Tyranid army, made for 4th ed with virtually the same colour scheme as my first nid army from their release in 3rd ed. I used the tyrant guard converted into carnifexes for my elite fexes. I think this army was made in 2006. I painted it for a tournaments, played about 15 games with them maybe then just sold it off. After I finish painting an army I usually lose interest in it fairly quickly.          http://imgur.com/a/HzFMX#0GMzm That link has a couple of more pictures in it, but I am sure you guys get the idea.
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May 10, 2011 16:00
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Quick question: I am making my own wash (Paynes Grey) since I like it slightly more than baddab black but since the recipe does not have exact instructions on how to mix it there was some trial and error. I am constantly running out and I don't like having big differences between batches. The differences are small but I noticed my most recent batch is a little darker and shiner The real question: Obviously I could dull-coat spray later, but would my flow be the same if I replaced the glaze medium with matte medium? Or does matte med behave different for flow or drying time or something.
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May 10, 2011 16:35
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The only real way to know for sure how it affects your flow is to try it out as different brands of medium dry and flow differently.
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May 10, 2011 16:41
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I have liquitex matte and glaze medium. I just wanted to check with you guys before I tried it incase matte medium was generally thicker and makes a significant different feel to the paint VS the glaze. Was wishing the only real difference is the shine or lack of shine. But it makes sense that it will have some other flow related differences.
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May 10, 2011 17:05
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Simpo posted:out of interest, how smooth are the surfaces on the stuff you get? One thing I notice about a lot of 3d prints is that they can have a slightly rough texture. It depends on the material in my experience. The laser sintered stuff (Shapeways' White Strong & Flexible) is a bit porous and has a definite grainy texture, like very fine sand being held together with glue. Things that are made by resin deposition (shapeways' Detail materials) are much smoother, though they definitely show some texture on organic surfaces. Nice smooth mechanical things come out with less surface texture though. My experience has been that a very light sanding completely removes the texture on their detail materials, and you really can't see much of it once you start painting...
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May 10, 2011 21:49
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Progress on my Warmachine Oath.  Blackfrost Shard  Vayl, Disciple of Everblight I need to do something with the faces. I'm terrified to actually try to paint in eyes or anything though. As usual, suggestions / criticisms welcome. I've tried to work in previous criticisms. All the quivers/sheathes are warm colors to offset all the blue, and I moved from Frostbite (a light blue) to pure white with a black wash for highlight-cloth. I also manually dotted all the rivets/studs in the leather armor (instead of drybrushing) but it's hard to see I suppose. Inverse Icarus fucked around with this message at 00:40 on May 11, 2011 |
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May 11, 2011 00:37
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Doing the eyes is always a bit daunting if you're not some kind of painting cyborg with hydraulic stablised arms like Paint-Vagrant, and it's tempting to leave them to last because you don't want to stuff it up early on, but it's better to get them to get them out of the way early on. In future do the eyes before you do the faces, use a tiny brush, take your time and just do a vertical line instead of just a dot for the pupil it looks better at this stage, and remember since you haven't put more primer/basecoat down on the skin, you can cover up any mistakes you make with flesh tones when you get around to doing the face without the miniature ending up with clashing skintones.
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May 11, 2011 00:56
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 09:55 |
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Yes. it is much easier to paint eyes without worrying about ruining the face. you can easily paint around them once they're done.
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May 11, 2011 01:47
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