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Fraction posted:Has anyone got any suggestions in how to deal with this, though? I've run into the same problem with Cohen. She can be kind of insecure around other dogs, she sees me as valuable, and her behaviour dips noticeably when she gets tired. It's a prime opportunity for resource-guarding. It's tough to deal with in real-world scenarios by pure classical conditioning. You can't control the dogs coming up to you and control your dog at the same time. So, while some CC is helpful, management and other tactics come into play here too. When I get approached by other dogs and I have Cohen off leash I do 4 things. First, I put alway all toys. Second, I rarely, if ever, actually go to interact with these strange dogs. I know it sucks not to be able to say hello, but if you do that, and you think it's possible to give your dog the opportunity to rehearse inappropriate behaviour, well, you're just working against yourself. Third, I give Cohen a "be good" cue. Be Good essentially just means for her to sit tight, focus on me, and once the other dog has left I'll reward her with food. Four, as I'm rewarding I'm also moving away from the group because, just like patting, feeding in the presence of other dogs can be a trigger. So, it's a two-pronged attack, utilizing both management and operant conditioning. I don't give her many opportunities to screw up, and I have also taught her that chilling out is more rewarding than snapping at other dogs. As you progress you should be able to tone down the management and increase the verbal control. And, if the dog behaves appropriately with no reminders from you, jackpot that like crazy. I'm talking 30 seconds of treats popped into her mouth. Make the "right" decision hugely rewarding. The problem that I ran in to is that if Cohen snapped at another dog to drive them away she succeeded in what she wanted, so once that step has been taken, well, my training session was over and she won. One point Dog, zero for A.L.L. So you simply need to go out of your way to not allow it to happen. Maybe consider leaving the bag at home and wearing pants with generous pockets, or use a different bag. If you think she's attached inappropriate value to the bag then it wouldn't be particularly difficult to use something else. As the behaviour is practiced less you'll notice your girl behaving more appropriately, but I personally am still very vigilant and proactive when it comes to managing my dog around others. Heknocentric Thinker posted:Do you think it's necessary that I find somebody with a calm/collected dog that I practice surprise encounters with? All my friends with dogs have hyper/untrained crazy dogs, so that might prove a little difficult. This might be more of a question for your trainer. If he has a dog he'd like to use in drills then that's great. But if you don't have access to mellow friends' dogs then it's not a huge deal -- if the other dogs are flipping out and being asses then they're not going to be that helpful. Just practice what you can on your own.
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May 2, 2011 18:44
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a life less posted:I've run into the same problem with Cohen. She can be kind of insecure around other dogs, she sees me as valuable, and her behaviour dips noticeably when she gets tired. It's a prime opportunity for resource-guarding. Thanks for this! I'm hoping that her over-tiredness today made her snappier than she otherwise would have been (which is often the case for her reactivity with both people and dogs), so I'll start putting the ball away after 40 minutes for a couple of days and see if that helps. Would it be any help in practicing good behaviour around the dogs she has no problem with, to get a foundation for her behaviour? I could start creating a cue which means 'wait there and be calm' when there's another dog near me (using my other dog first), alternating between giving Jess attention and giving huge jackpots to Lola for being non-reactive; then do the same with my friend's Cairn the next time she brings her over to my house, and hope that that gives Lola something to fall back on? Lola is pretty amazing at generalising (once she knows a cue in a few rooms of the house indoors, she will offer the behaviour on the first cue nearly every single time outdoors), so maybe practicing with two dogs will at least give her *something* to think on other than 'oh god that dog is near my great thing gotta get them away!' I might try taking her ball on a rope, too, rather than the ball and chuck-it (and spare ball). I can probably shove everything else in my pockets (it's just easier with the bag), and we'll see if she reacts at all just with me, and move on from there. If she is trying to guard the bag rather than me, it'll be a lot easier to deal with.
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May 2, 2011 19:02
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Fraction posted:Would it be any help in practicing good behaviour around the dogs she has no problem with, to get a foundation for her behaviour? Yep. This is definitely a situation where you can start to set positive precedents before going out into the more challenging 'real world'. Think of "be good" as a control exercise, or a long sit/stay. And of course remember not to test it in the real world until you've done your homework. Again, I think that management is equally important here. Good luck!
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May 3, 2011 03:43
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I've got a small training question that I hope can get resolved. I have a 4 year old chessie named Sophie, I posted lots of pictures here when she was a pup, but like it happens to all dogs... she's all grown up. She's a great dog and love her to death. She's well trained and have had her in a few obedience classes when she was younger. However, since moving into my house about a year and a half ago, she's become very alert to cars driving by outside (I live on 3 acres, however the house is towards the front of the property. I'm back in the woods by my road off my driveway is pretty active.). She barks now... a lot. It only really started when we moved in like I said. We're about a week short of having our first child and I'd really rather that she wasn't barking all the time/at all. How can you train that away? I've tried moving her to the bedroom when I see cars coming down the driveway, however there are several times at night that we'll just be sitting watching tv and she'll randomly let a bark slip or she'll go to the window and just start barking at nothing. Is there anything I can do for that? anxiously awaiting a car seat with her little brother 
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May 3, 2011 17:42
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a life less posted:Yep. This is definitely a situation where you can start to set positive precedents before going out into the more challenging 'real world'. Think of "be good" as a control exercise, or a long sit/stay. And of course remember not to test it in the real world until you've done your homework. Again, I think that management is equally important here. Good luck! As soon as my exams are over, I'll start in earnest on teaching her to behave more appropriately. Since I'll be using Jess and my friend's dog, I know I can use food to reward her behaviour too - so if they're getting pats, she's getting chunks of chicken slice, etc. Hopefully it'll work, and thanks for the in-depth (as always!) answer.  Out of curiousity, has anyone heard of Natural Dog Training? Kevin Behan, of NDT, suggests things like making yourself prey-like (can't find the link for that bit now, but he suggests 'being the moose') and pushing against your dog as a reward/relaxer: feeding your dog whilst gently pushing against the chest, working up to a hard push against them and removing the food reward (video here). I know this is a little off-topic in that it isn't asking a question about dealing with behaviour, but it's about a (relatively obscure, I guess) method of training.
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May 3, 2011 18:12
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uh, that sounds pretty weird. "unresolved emotion"? really? And in practice it looks like basic principals of rewarding a dog for doing what you want it to do, just put into some random terms. The video also doesn't seem to show any of the techniques you mentioned?
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May 3, 2011 18:24
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Levitate posted:uh, that sounds pretty weird. "unresolved emotion"? really? Sorry, the video was a last-minute add-on link (the video didn't show the shaped push that he mentioned elsewhere, but showed him pushing at the dog's neck and upper chest whilst feeding, from what I could see). I've just been looking through it, and the site is pretty damned hard to navigate. I also don't get the strange terms that he uses. I was just curious to see what other people thought about it!
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May 3, 2011 18:27
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Fraction posted:Out of curiousity, has anyone heard of Natural Dog Training? Kevin Behan, of NDT, suggests things like making yourself prey-like (can't find the link for that bit now, but he suggests 'being the moose') and pushing against your dog as a reward/relaxer: feeding your dog whilst gently pushing against the chest, working up to a hard push against them and removing the food reward (video here). There's a huge amount of doubletalk that is very hard to take any practical technique from. I try to keep an open mind about training techniques but pretty much all of this article has me going WHAT THE gently caress: http://naturaldogtraining.com/blog/how-i-developed-the-pushing-technique/ quote:So I finally began to turn to food in earnest because hunger is the only way available to us by which we can turn electricity, which is generated by the neurological circuits dedicated to the sense of balance, into magnetism, which is generated by the neurological circuits dedicated to the sense of hunger. (This is why working with prey objects was so powerful because obviously the prey instinct/drive is the confluence of the balance and hunger circuitry into one composite value. Thus the predator can compute the movements of the prey and intercept it.) By focusing exclusively on the hunger circuitry I wouldn’t be simultaneously invoking the balance circuitry and therefore inadvertently reinforcing whatever emotional values had built up in the dog’s mind over the years.
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May 3, 2011 20:10
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Flesh Forge posted:There's a huge amount of doubletalk that is very hard to take any practical technique from. I try to keep an open mind about training techniques but pretty much all of this article has me going WHAT THE gently caress: At first, when I looked at the site I was thinking it didn't seem too bad. Be the biggest and best thing in the world to your dog, push against them, that seems interesting. But then... quote:We can think of predatory energy as electric and preyful energy as magnetic; thus, the form-of-a-thing engenders a specific electromagnetic vibration in an animal’s perception of it, just as molecules are arranged and just as the sense of smell works (according to a new theory as detailed in the “The Emperor of Scent”). In other words, a dog doesn’t think of its owner as a Being, but as being a specific electromagnetic vibration of a predatory aspect relative to a preyful aspect along a spectrum. What.  In the comments sections, seems like he's got a pretty attached fanbase... so at least
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May 3, 2011 20:40
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rotaryfun posted:However, since moving into my house about a year and a half ago, she's become very alert to cars driving by outside (I live on 3 acres, however the house is towards the front of the property. I'm back in the woods by my road off my driveway is pretty active.). She barks now... a lot. It only really started when we moved in like I said. I doubt even the world's best trainers will be able to solve problem barking in a week. It takes time, and a LOT of consistency. Read this recent post about reducing barking. You're going to be using a three-pronged attack: increase exercise, don't allow access to the window at all, and start counter-conditioning a new emotional response. If you still have more questions after reading that, please ask!
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May 3, 2011 21:31
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Fraction posted:Has anyone got any suggestions in how to deal with this, though? I won't recommend any of this to anyone over the internet. Some I may suggest live, after seeing a dog, but as it won't work for all dogs and may even be counter productive, just don't do it. "Healy training megapost" I'm a firm believer in operant conditioning, this means I know it works and I consider it to be the best method out there. However I'm a bit lazy sometimes and will take a shortcut, if I see one. When Healy came to me at six months, I saw a major shortcut that was within reach with her. It was apparent from the get go that she was pretty eager to please me and had a strong pack drive, if you will. I've yet to teach her (she's been with me for four years now) a basic recall. But on the other hand the times, when she hasn't come, when I've wanted her to, can be counted on one hand. And Healy is off leash pretty much everywhere, so it's not like she doesn't have opportunities or reasons to "disobey". (Out of courtesy to other people she will be on a leash in certain places.) Right after she came to me and didn't come when called I shooed her away from me and my other dogs and wouldn't let her return to the pack for a short while. Now she'll really lend her ear to me, in the toughest of spots, when I tell her "go away". When she was younger I used "go away", when she's growled at other people or dogs out of fear. She has been allowed to be afraid and to stay at my feet and I've protected her there. But I decided early on it really wasn't her business to defend herself or me, at least not when she's right next to me. Therefore I've told her to go away, if she tries to take matters in to her own hands, while next to me. I've also gotten her to understand that she shouldn't interact with other dogs or people while we are on a walk, but when we are hanging around somewhere she'll beg people to pet her or play with other dogs. During a walk I don't usually have to say anything to her when we pass people and dogs by, but most times I do as it seems to reassure most people that I've got her under control without a leash. I'll have her lie down next to me or wait a short distance away, if I don't want her to bother people I might be talking with etc. Healy was pretty much untrained, as far as obedience goes, until the age of two, when I figured I'll have to get some obedience results with her to get people to believe she's a pretty good gal. I practised with her for two weeks and managed to gather points from all exercises in an unofficial novice class obedience competition. But after that she got a long break as she'd been bred and delivered five lil puppies a while later. After the puppies I trained religiously for two months and we passed the BH test, with its unnaturally long heel sequences, in front of a crowd of Schutzhund enthusiasts (boy was I nervous). I'll reward her with treats and play for success in obedience etc. But she's never had that many concrete rewards for every day behaviours. I occasionally surprise her with a treat or so, but most times she'll only earn my praise and acceptance, for which she'll do quite a bit of obedience, too. I dare say that we have a very good relationship.
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May 4, 2011 10:25
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Riiseli posted:"Healy training megapost" I'm not sure if what worked for Healy would work at all for Lola. I've made myself a massive Awesome Resource for her, and I think that pushing her away if she was being obnoxious to other dogs would only reinforce that other dogs are a threat to 'her' resource. I'm not even sure if it was me or the bag that she was guarding. Punishing blowing off a recall and punishing aggression aren't things I'm keen on doing with her; punishment can have fallouts, and she's a pretty sensitive dog as it is. She sounds like a dog that is very oriented toward you (what breed is Healy, out of curiousity?); while I've made myself and my attention rewarding for my terrier pup, it's still not the same. She'll work for my approval and affection, but the best combination hands-down is a primary reinforcer (food, toys, etc) on a varied schedule of reinforcement with my praise.
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May 4, 2011 15:45
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Fraction posted:(what breed is Healy, out of curiousity?); Fraction posted:Punishing blowing off a recall and punishing aggression aren't things I'm keen on doing with her; punishment can have fallouts, and she's a pretty sensitive dog as it is. Riiseli posted:but as it won't work for all dogs and may even be counter productive, just don't do it.
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May 4, 2011 17:00
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a life less posted:Awesomeness I was wondering if counter conditioning would work on our dog that, instead of having a negative reaction with dogs on walks, joyously pulls to meet and sniff other dogs? Also, jumping up on counters. On the last page with the licking and another issue you said to not create a behavior chain. Currently she jumps up, I say OFF then the second all paws are on the floor I click and treat, but I do worry that she is learning to jump up so I will eventually give a treat. From what I understand, I increase the amount of time those paws stay down before treating?
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May 4, 2011 22:56
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Lixer posted:I was wondering if counter conditioning would work on our dog that, instead of having a negative reaction with dogs on walks, joyously pulls to meet and sniff other dogs? It depends on what you mean. I've definitely created a see dog coming down the street -> focus on me chain, where she looks at me expecting a treat. I'm sure with joyous dogs you can do something similar (mine is a bit skittish) but I think what would help you more is coupling the see -> focus with some impulse control exercises. I'm a huge fan of impulse control training, and you can make it fun for the dog too. If you need specific ideas I can offer some up. Lixer posted:Also, jumping up on counters. On the last page with the licking and another issue you said to not create a behavior chain. Currently she jumps up, I say OFF then the second all paws are on the floor I click and treat, but I do worry that she is learning to jump up so I will eventually give a treat. From what I understand, I increase the amount of time those paws stay down before treating? Yeah, my bet is she's getting the reinforcement from the jump, then the reinforcement from your cue, THEN the reinforcement from the cookie. You could increase the amount of time the paws are on the floor, but the better idea is to preempt the jump if you can. A lot of the impulse control exercises I mentioned are all about letting the dog make a decision and controlling the reinforcement from that decision -- no cues need be offered by you. So, while I've not applied it to jumping up myself, I would probably do something like this. In a situation where she might jump up, catch her before she does with a marker word or click and a treat. If she does jump up, take her by her collar (calmly, not angrily), maybe give her a "whoops", reset the exercise and try again. See if this time she keeps her feet on the floor. If so, reward gratuitously. If she jumps up again, reset again. If you run into consistent failure try making it easier like moving to a less exciting room, setting up a less exciting situation, waiting less time to reward etc. If you can grab the collar before she gets her normal amount of reinforcement from jumping, and pair it with allowing her to make the right choice without input from you, you should be able to start reducing the jumping behaviour. The problem with counter surfing is that it's self-reinforcing when you're not there to catch it, so the absolute #1 rule is to keep all food put away and out of reach. Here's the video for Its Yer Choice (the start of many impulse control exercises): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ipT5k1gaXhc
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May 4, 2011 23:38
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a life less posted:If you need specific ideas I can offer some up. I'd love some!
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May 6, 2011 00:06
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Lixer posted:I'd love some! Well, first and foremost is Its Yer Choice, which I mentioned above (and about a million other times in this thread). Other games are where you're balancing excitement with control. For instance, if you're playing a game of tug, then you stop it and ask for a sit or a down. The sit/down should be nice and fast and crisp. Super bonus points if the dog offers the sit/down without you cuing. Reward either with food, or with the continuation of the game. Work on holding a control position (stand, sit, down) around distractions, starting slowly and working your way up. Start psyching your dog up by starting to count 1... 2... 3... (the dog has to stay in their control position without shuffling) and then RELEASE TO AWESOME FUN TIMES like tug, fetch, etc. (You can also use "reaaaaaaaaaddddddyyyyyyyyy..." to build excitement.) You can also try to psyche your dog out by starting to run a bit, but they have to hold their position. Then you can either release them to chase you, or you return and reward for the stay. All of those games are designed to help your dog practice self control while your dog is aroused. You always want to try to be more interesting and engaging than the dog's environment (or the approaching dogs). I would probably start dealing with over-exuberance when greeting dogs by getting your dog in a sit off to the side of the approaching dog. Reward hugely with food and/or play if the sit/stay is maintained. If it's not, take the dog by the collar and move 6 feet away and try again. I probably wouldn't try this 'til I was getting some good solid sit/stays with distractions, so your dog is more acquainted with self control training. Edit: Here's a Susan Garrett video that shows some fun games-within-games that work on impulse control. It's an advanced level, but it's something awesome to shoot for. a life less fucked around with this message at 03:28 on May 6, 2011 |
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May 6, 2011 02:58
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How do I get my 5 month old husky/chow puppy to stop jumping on the sliding glass door? I've been ignoring her scratching for 2 months now. When I walk over to the door to let her in and she scratches at the door I turn around and walk away. She mostly sits and waits for me to open it. When she wants her way though she jumps and scratches on the door like crazy though.
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May 6, 2011 06:18
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Hdip posted:How do I get my 5 month old husky/chow puppy to stop jumping on the sliding glass door? I've been ignoring her scratching for 2 months now. When I walk over to the door to let her in and she scratches at the door I turn around and walk away. She mostly sits and waits for me to open it. When she wants her way though she jumps and scratches on the door like crazy though. You mean he's out in the yard on his own, and he jumps up to get you to let him in? I'm not the best person to answer this -- my dog has a high pitched "let me in" yelp which I've not successfully trained out. I manage this behaviour through only letting her out for brief periods of time so I can preempt her bark, leaving the door open so she can come and go as she pleases, and ignoring her when she does actually bark. Management coupled with sufficient exercise and not-unreasonable amounts of time you're asking him to stay out there alone might help. Maybe others have other ideas.
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May 6, 2011 14:18
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Yeah she's outside in the fenced back yard on her own. Mostly she just needs more exercise I guess. Sometimes though she needs to stay outside like when my friends with babies come over. Giving her a rawhide chew keeps her busy for about 10 minutes, then she'll be back again. Oh well I'll keep working on it. She is meant to be an outside dog really. It's just to hot to leave her outside all the time in the summer.
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May 6, 2011 17:03
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How much human interaction does the puppy get? Not just hanging around on the couch, I mean playing, training etc.
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May 6, 2011 19:25
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Couple hours a day and a walk down to the park to run around and chase squirrels. She does better when she get's two walks but we don't always have time.
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May 6, 2011 20:16
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Hdip posted:Oh well I'll keep working on it. She is meant to be an outside dog really. It's just to hot to leave her outside all the time in the summer. Why is she supposed to be an outside dog? And how long are you leaving her outside each day?
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May 6, 2011 20:29
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Hdip posted:Couple hours a day and a walk down to the park to run around and chase squirrels. She does better when she get's two walks but we don't always have time.
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May 7, 2011 19:38
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Major and I met with our behaviorist in person yesterday for the first time in 4 months and it went great! She was really impressed with the difference in his behavior, both around the house and in the car. I was worried about the car ride because our last practice he had started howling again but he kept himself to just whining while the doctor was there. We discussed a few behavioral mod things we can try but she thinks mostly we just need to get his meds right at this point. The prozac has made a huge difference in Major's anxiety and I love the price but its making him not hungry which has made car training pretty impossible. He's a very active, 75 lb dog and he's barely eating a cup of food a day. He isn't interested in bacon, tripe, rabbit, lamb cartilage, or gross dead voles and won't eat food in stressful situations that he would before. So we're switching to sertaline (Zoloft) in the hopes that he'll eat better on that. It probably won't have as big of an effect on his dog reactivity but it might help more in the car. It also costs $43 for a 45 days of pills  Oh well, I would have spent it on the dog anyway. After a month we'll reevaluate and may add a serotonin enhancer usually used to storm anxiety specifically for car rides.Kiri, the doc said that she recommends still using the l-theanine even on other meds because it works on different pathways. It appears to mostly affect dopamine while SSRIs work on serotonin. Also anyone else using NurtureCalm pheromone collars might want to pick up a couple now because they stopped making the 60 day ones and are only doing 30 day collars like the DAP ones but charging the same amount they were before. After the behaviorist was done with Major we went out and worked with my sheep and goats (I didn't pay her to, we were just playing around) and got some great enrichment and husbandry behavior ideas. I really like doing free shaping with herbivores, they're so good at it. She also told me that she is running a chicken camp next year and I can't wait! Hopefully I can get some chickens this summer and be the best when the time comes.
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May 7, 2011 20:48
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Instant Jellyfish posted:Kiri[/b], the doc said that she recommends still using the l-theanine even on other meds because it works on different pathways. It appears to mostly affect dopamine while SSRIs work on serotonin. Great, thanks. I think I'm going to try it as a supplement. How much do you give Major? Sorry the prozac didn't work out. I'm sure you'll find something that does...it just sucks that it'll be more expensive. :/ I though the prozac would be expensive and was prepared to pay a lot too. The things we do for our puppies.
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May 7, 2011 22:14
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Kiri koli posted:Great, thanks. I think I'm going to try it as a supplement. How much do you give Major? Maj gets 150 mg every 8-12 hours, I think the dose is 50 mg per 25 lbs but I would check with a vet first to make sure. The behaviorist recommends the "Doctor's Best Suntheanine" brand if you don't go with a dog specific brand because it doesn't have any inactive ingredients that could cause problems. I guess one of her clients got really sick once from using a human grade l-theanine because of some inactive ingredient. I don't mind spending more if it will help the beast and if the cost becomes prohibitive I'm sure the doctor can find something else that's on the $10 list. She's really good about being budget conscious. It can take people years to find the right psych med combo for themselves so I'm not worried about not getting it the first try. Instant Jellyfish fucked around with this message at 18:23 on May 8, 2011 |
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May 8, 2011 00:59
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Last night we were throwing a rope toy up and down the hallway. Our 2 goldens fight for it the whole way back. Well, it ended up in the hamper and they didn't know what the gently caress to do to get it out. For like 5 minutes they were sitting there trying to figure it out. I went over and knocked it over so they could get it out. The next time, I threw it intentionally in there and they just ran over and bulldozed the thing. They continued doing this. It was a very  moment for us even though I'm sure it ranks pretty low on the "my dog did something smart" scale.edit: yes we are aware that we are potentially teaching them destructive behavior. Wojtek fucked around with this message at 20:37 on May 9, 2011 |
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May 9, 2011 18:48
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Not sure where else to turn. Figured I'd see what the goons had to say about this one. My Wife and I just rescued a 4 year old Jack Russel Terrier/Pitbull mix from a local shelter. She is housebroken, up to date on all her meds, and seems to be adjusting just fine, except for two incidents. When we first brought her home (about 11 days ago), we were keeping her in our spare bedroom while we were out/asleep. She did well with this for a day or two, but she definitely has some separation anxiety issues and tore up half the carpet in the room. After that, we decided to crate her since I can't have her destroy the house. She really seemed to not mind the crate at all, until tonight when she chewed up her bed and somehow got the plastic insert on the bottom of the crate through the metal bars. Both of these incidents happened when she was left alone for only an hour or two. She is generally left alone for longer than that during the time I leave for work and my Wife gets home from her job. I honestly don't really know what to do about this. I leave her a large Kong and a chew rope and she ignores them. She gets plenty of exercise in our big back yard and she is taken on fairly long walks twice a day. Aside from these temper tantrums, she is a very happy and loving dog. What's the deal? Is this something we can correct, or is it just what happens when you get a shelter dog? This isn't my first dog, but I've never dealt with this type of behavior before. I want to make sure I do this right. epic Kingdom Hearts LP fucked around with this message at 02:02 on May 10, 2011 |
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May 10, 2011 01:59
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Just because she doesn't seem to mind being in the crate doesn't really mean she likes it. A big part of crate training (scroll down in linked thread for a thorough writeup) is making the crate the most awesome place in the world, where food is, and the best and most incredibly valuable things ONLY appear in the crate. E.g.: This is the most awesome thing in the entire universe (for Darla):  This is Darla in her crate with the most awesome thing in the universe:  Gosh honey you've been quiet for a long time, what have you been OH MY GOD WHAT THE gently caress  If your dog is not interested in the kong or rope then maybe spend a little time trying to find out what really keeps her interest. Have you tried stuffing the kong with peanut butter or anything like that?
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May 10, 2011 03:54
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I've been teaching Koji to wave. I love watching the gears turn in his head as he figures out what the gently caress I'm doing and what it might mean for him. Jerk kept going for the pile of treats on the table, though.  How would I end up turning a wave into a shake without confusing him? Obviously I need to get wave down better, but I'm not sure if I did this backwards or not.
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May 10, 2011 04:04
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I'm going to have to experiment with different things to see what exactly gets her interest. I was told to not put food in the crate because she will probably piss and poo poo in there also. She really is very well behaved. I just hope over time she becomes less destructive. I don't feel like I should have to crate a 4 year old dog.
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May 10, 2011 06:10
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paisleyfox posted:How would I end up turning a wave into a shake without confusing him? Obviously I need to get wave down better, but I'm not sure if I did this backwards or not. That shouldn't confuse him because the signals should be pretty different. Hold out a hand for Shake and I assume you wave yourself as a signal for Wave. Psyche does High Five and Shake with both paws, plus Touch, Jump, and Stay, which all involve an open palm being held in different positions. She messes up sometimes, but mostly when I'm not being careful about it. Wave sounds really cute.
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May 10, 2011 12:40
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get out posted:Not sure where else to turn. Figured I'd see what the goons had to say about this one. Separation anxiety is just about the most frustrating thing to deal with with dogs. The basic idea is that you want to make her as comfortable as you can (mentally) by making her crate a really great place to hang out. You do this through playing brief crate games where you have the dog run into the crate, feed feed feed, release, repeat. As with everything in dog training, try to turn it into a fun game for the both of you. Also long lasting chews, which have already been mentioned. On top of that, you want to make the process of you leaving a positive one, and you returning really boring. So, while leaving, if you grab your keys, give her a treat. Put your shoes on, give her a treat. Slip on your coat, give a treat, then give a really special chew as an in-crate only treat as you leave. Then, when you return, don't make a big fuss over her when you let her out of the crate. Pretty much totally ignore your dog for 5-10 minutes until she's completely calmed down. Only then, greet her calmly. I highly suggest you pick up and read I'll Be Home Soon by McConnell. It's a thin little booklet with some desensitization exercises laid out in more detail. paisleyfox posted:I've been teaching Koji to wave. I normally teach paw first, then wave. I think one naturally progresses into the other. But if your signals are clear enough, and you do enough training that Koji learns to discriminate one cue from the other, you'll be fine. So, as always, work to get the response you want (either the wave or paw) and you'll probably naturally develop some sort of body language that communicates to Koji what you want. For instance, my cue for paw is my hand flat out in front and then I say "paw". For wave (which I've not really worked on getting from a distance) I have my hand open and turned at a 45 degree angle -- it kind of looks like the paw cue, but it's a bit harder to hit, so Cohen just holds her paw up. I eventually turned a wave-type behaviour into a limp, so you can see some wave-ish stuff in the beginning of this video if you're interested. It may help. It ... may not.
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May 10, 2011 13:46
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Just wanna throw this out there to all of you people teaching your dogs to shake: Step 1) Teach dog to shake Step 2) Invest in a $5 toy keyboard (I found an old Casio from the 80s at a thrift store). Step 3) Teach dog to shake with keyboard Step 4) DOG NOW PLAYS PIANO, IMPRESSES EVERYONE IN YOUR FAMILY This is what I did and my friends and family loved it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wM6sviy6390 Sure, it's cool when a dog shakes. But it's way cooler to bust out the "YES, BUT CAN YOUR DOG PLAY PIANO????" e: Is it weird to use just hand gestures for your dog instead of vocal commands? I usually do both (didn't say much in that video because I'm weird about talking on camera) but sometimes if I give Quincy a command without a hand movement of any sort he doesn't get what I'm asking, whereas I can leave out the vocal command and just do the hand gesture and he does it with no problem. I guess he just pays attention to movements more than sounds, sometimes I don't even notice that I'm doing a movement until I for some reason don't do it and he stares at me. GidgetNomates fucked around with this message at 16:49 on May 10, 2011 |
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May 10, 2011 16:46
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GidgetNomates posted:e: Is it weird to use just hand gestures for your dog instead of vocal commands? I usually do both (didn't say much in that video because I'm weird about talking on camera) but sometimes if I give Quincy a command without a hand movement of any sort he doesn't get what I'm asking, whereas I can leave out the vocal command and just do the hand gesture and he does it with no problem. I guess he just pays attention to movements more than sounds, sometimes I don't even notice that I'm doing a movement until I for some reason don't do it and he stares at me. I think that's pretty common among dogs, and it's actually pretty valuable to have your dog be responsive to hand signals alone - what if you're in a noisy environment or want to get him to lay down when your guests are talking their heads off?
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May 10, 2011 17:05
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a life less posted:Separation anxiety is just about the most frustrating thing to deal with with dogs. The basic idea is that you want to make her as comfortable as you can (mentally) by making her crate a really great place to hang out. You do this through playing brief crate games where you have the dog run into the crate, feed feed feed, release, repeat. As with everything in dog training, try to turn it into a fun game for the both of you. Also long lasting chews, which have already been mentioned. Thank you so much for this. What kind of long lasting chews would you recommend? I'm very nervous leaving anything in the crate with her while we are gone. I don't want her to choke or something.
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May 10, 2011 20:37
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get out posted:Thank you so much for this. What kind of long lasting chews would you recommend? I'm very nervous leaving anything in the crate with her while we are gone. I don't want her to choke or something. Kongs filled with peanut butter, cream cheese, meat, cheese, bananas, or any other snacks your dog likes work well. If you freeze them or partially freeze them they last even longer. I know there are others out there but that's the only thing I've trusted my dog with unsupervised so far.
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May 10, 2011 21:08
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I'm going to try the Kong thing. I have one of the bigger ones for her but she hasn't even sniffed it. Do I fill the entire thing up or just put a little inside? I've been hearing such conflicting advice. Some people tell me to not put anything inside of her crate with her so she knows when she goes in there it's time to sleep/relax. Aaagh. I also have her on Hills Science Diet Advanced Fitness food, would any of you reccommend me changing her onto something better? It was what she was being fed in the shelter. Also I went to a local well reviewed pet supply shop and they suggested some "calming" dog treats. It's supposed to make her a little relaxed after she eats them. Is this a bad thing? epic Kingdom Hearts LP fucked around with this message at 21:22 on May 10, 2011 |
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May 10, 2011 21:17
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| # ? May 16, 2024 00:49 |
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get out posted:I'm going to try the Kong thing. I have one of the bigger ones for her but she hasn't even sniffed it. Do I fill the entire thing up or just put a little inside? I've been hearing such conflicting advice. Some people tell me to not put anything inside of her crate with her so she knows when she goes in there it's time to sleep/relax. Aaagh. I usually fill the entire thing and freeze it, so it lasts longer. And for the conflicting advise, think about what you would prefer: in a comfy bed in a room you like being in with some delicious food at hand if you want it, or having nothing at all in there to eat?
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May 10, 2011 21:34
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