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No painter has an armature-steady head, there are stances that steady the hands. I set my elbows on my thighs behind the knees or with the elbows pressed against my sides. Pressing the heels of my hands together, I hold the model by the base in one hand and the paintbrush in the other. This makes a tight foundation to reduce shaking, a sort of bipod.
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May 11, 2011 22:37
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So I have this dude. Bought him probably over 10 years or so from a place which sold second hand miniatures for about $20 if I remember correctly. Cut off the head and repositioned the back leg because they look gimp as gently caress, and removed the front legs because they aren't so crash hot either. So much for being an Imperial Dragon. Now it's years later and I was thinking of converting it to be used as a zombie dragon for VC's. I will be using the dragon skull it's posing on as a new skull. I need to know how I can bend parts of the body back into the shape I want for it. Specifically, I want to be able to bend the tail, and perhaps the midsection. The hope is to have it posed as if it is in mid flight along a base. How possible is this? I don't want to heat up the lead with a torch or anything that would cause it to melt, or possibly burn myself. How about very hot water? If anyone has any good suggestions, let me know. If worst comes to worst, I can always just get a saw out and cut with that, expand the cut, and green stuff zombie looking stuff over it, but I would like to keep the general integrity of it as much as possible. Edit: If worst comes to worst I might just buy this Dracolich and work it with green stuff or whatever and make it a zombie dragon. Just noticed on the picture of the dragon I have, it's so gimp that it's front legs are way too loving short compared to it's rear legs. Lame. The Dark Project fucked around with this message at 23:09 on May 11, 2011 |
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May 11, 2011 23:04
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Strip it, eBay the parts you didn't chop, and buy five VC Zombie Dragons.
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May 11, 2011 23:07
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Problem is I hate the GW new style ones even more. Never liked the "S" style ones. Another option is to say "gently caress zombie dragon" and just get a regular dragon for the Vampire to fly instead, saying that since he's a pimp Blood Dragon Vamp, second best just does not do. Also, after what I have done to this model, I very much doubt I would get enough cash to buy 1 VC zombie dragon for it on ebay. I would be really loving suprised.
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May 11, 2011 23:13
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The Dark Project posted:Problem is I hate the GW new style ones even more. Never liked the "S" style ones. I think it'd be perfectly fluffy for your Blood Knight Vampire to ride a regular dragon. I bought that plastic high elf dragon kit with the intent of eventually converting it into a zombie dragon, but my stupid zombie giant took me ages and crushed my spirit, so no greenstuff work for a while. On a related note, I've been toying with the idea of heavily decorating my movement trays. I picked up some LOTR ruins to work as a base, and plan on making the rest of the tray rim match up. Will this cause me problems in games if some sperglord wants to be a dick about LoS? (apologies for the crappy iphone photo)
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May 12, 2011 00:29
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Manifest posted:Will this cause me problems in games if some sperglord wants to be a dick about LoS?) Ask the guy if he has a problem with it and offer to let his units see through it. Don't play them if they react poorly. if it looks good you can't complain about it is my general rule.
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May 12, 2011 00:36
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Sorry to hear it, the Imperial Dragon is one of the more iconic models from when Citadel/GW was a lot less restrained in their designs. If you're not going to tournaments or anything, you can go off-reservation and get something like RAFM's Necrodrake for about $35 and putty some flesh and scales onto it. Or watch eBay for a terribly painted HE Dragon - they're plastic and much easier to work with.
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May 12, 2011 00:41
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Here's a dumb question I should have asked before basing previous models. Assuming you guys use sealer or whatever to keep the paint from chipping/scratching, do you do that before or after you add grass/whatever? I did it after on my first batch, and now I'm thinking the sealer might have helped keep the rocky sand stuff I'm using together better.
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May 12, 2011 01:33
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Inverse Icarus posted:Here's a dumb question I should have asked before basing previous models. I base my models (rocks, sand etc) before I even prime them, but I put static grass on after I use dullcote on them. Never tried dullcoting the grass itself, but my way seems to work.
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May 12, 2011 01:47
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I varnish after everything, including static grass/etc. The only thing I dont varnish is if Im using some sort of glossy water effect, for obvious reasons.
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May 12, 2011 01:55
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I'm always afraid that the varnish spray will blow static grass onto the model and get it stuck there so I wait until the last step to apply grass. You can always add more later if it wears off.
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May 12, 2011 05:08
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I do a paint-on more protective varnish, then static grass, then spray matte finish.
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May 12, 2011 05:39
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The Dark Project posted:I need to know how I can bend parts of the body back into the shape I want for it. Specifically, I want to be able to bend the tail, and perhaps the midsection. The hope is to have it posed as if it is in mid flight along a base. Don't bring an open heat source anywhere near it. If it's the old lead-tin metal, even a candle flame will completely melt it. Back in the day one of my friends thought he would use a little candle to soften up a space marine captain to bend the arm and bam, quarter of a second and he had a pool of lead in the candle dish. You might try warm/hot water, not sure how that would go. Honestly though, if it is the actual old lead-based metals, I would say to just grab and bend. This does depend on exactly how much you want to shift it, though - too much and the metal will start to shear. Just how thick is the metal at ehe point where you want to alter it?
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May 12, 2011 13:44
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I want to bend the tail out a little straighter, and the mid section to be straight as well. Looking at it, I don't know if this is feasible at all. Might need to cut up the midsection to open it out straight, and bend the tail by using hot water or something similar. Now you say it's iconic, I feel kind of bad for not keeping it in a good condition, instead of chopping the hell out of it back in the day. Live and learn I guess.
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May 12, 2011 14:19
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Eh, I wouldn't lose any sleep about it. I mean maybe it's iconic now, but I am pretty sure the guys who sculpted and cast it intended for it to be used, altered, and played with. You can't just keep everything locked away in a cabinet in case it happens to be important one day. Remember, Action Comics #1 is only worth anything because 99% percent of them were recycled, read to death, or turned into paper swords/hats by the kids that bought them. Anyway, I think you could probably straighten out the tail with some careful bending, but the body is going to be tougher. You'd probably need to use a saw to cut about half way through it in the midsection - I would cut from the belly up - and then bend it. You'd need to fill in the wedge with greenstuff, but the back detail should be fine.
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May 12, 2011 14:46
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A quick mini-review of the Dial Dude's magnetic dials. http://the-d-d.net/ I purchased a set of dials from the Dial Dude to act as fuel counters for my Dystopian Wars tiny figthers. My intention was to either base them on the dial or simply place them next to each squadron (and individual flier, as required). The ordering process was simple and easy, and he contacted me personally to let me know my order was on its way. He even included a sample of the new dials he's making (The square one pictured below).  The dials themselves are fairly plain. Sheet magnet (think cheap refrigerator magnet) material glued to a printed cutout of the Federated States of America logo. It's nice that the Dial Dude offers so many custom logos, and the printing quality is fairly high, however there are scuff marks and fringe edges from the gluing/cutting process still left. Not a huge deal though. The magnets are strong enough to stay attached to the other half of the dial, but at the same time rotate freely, which is nice. I'd seen a review on the DW boards where the consumer said he pinned them, which I don't think is necessary. The dial turns easily and doesn't float off center. The rectangular dial, a preview product the Dial Dude included for free, is a little fancier. It's pinned and the dial spins very nicely. Though it seems to be made from balsa or some cheap corrugated card as opposed to plasticard (which would've made the product 1000x better). The scaling of the FSA logo is also off on the rectangular dial, which doesn't really make sense to me, as it is more flag shaped than the round dials (which look fantastic). All in all, I suppose if custom dials are your thing, these are pretty alright. They're cheap, unique and functional. However as I've found it would not be feasable to base my fliers on them, and because of their size, I've decided not to use them for fuel counters. I can fit small 5mm dice on the actual base of the tiny flier with no problem. I would honestly say pass, but the guy is really nice and offers a unique and helpful product, so if you're gonna get custom dials, get them from this guy... However the product is a little meh. You get what you pay for, I suppose. A+ for experience and the seller, C- for the product itself.
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May 12, 2011 14:57
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Holy poo poo, those RAFM minis are goony as gently caress.Inverse Icarus posted:Assuming you guys use sealer or whatever to keep the paint from chipping/scratching, do you do that before or after you add grass/whatever? I varnish before basing/flocking. I've found that the spray loses any coherency over the rough surface of the sand/grass and does not provide much if any seal. It doesn't hurt anything, though, it just means you have to wait longer to finish the base. It takes about four minutes in front of a box fan for varnish to set, it takes at least ten to fifteen before white glue is set.
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May 12, 2011 16:07
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Post 9-11 User posted:Holy poo poo, those RAFM minis are goony as gently caress. Oh my god, I painted up a bunch of their Marines guys when I was like 12. Always wondered where they came from!
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May 13, 2011 03:44
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Must... have... lemur cleric... Crap, can't link. It's under Reaper miniatures, special edition figures
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May 13, 2011 04:40
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 Paint with triads each day every day.
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May 13, 2011 04:49
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Is that a portrait of Bill Clinton?
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May 13, 2011 05:09
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Chia Obama.
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May 13, 2011 05:11
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So I found one of the first models I ever painted:  and here he is next to my most recent model, the WIP Terminus: 
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May 13, 2011 11:45
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Glad to see you learned to thin your paints.
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May 13, 2011 12:36
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Here is the now finished Terminus:   
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May 13, 2011 15:17
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I don't like that model very much in general, but I think you've done a really good job on it. I like the purple and white on his sleeves, it's a nice contrast from the rest of the figure. I would love to seem some less shadowed pictures, if you can get them.
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May 13, 2011 15:37
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Mr_Happy_Pants posted:So I found one of the first models I ever painted: I love these. I still have the first stuff I ever painted. It was a Necromunda gang. They all had the crazy eyes, were gloss varnished and I had painted their names on their bases.
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May 14, 2011 06:11
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This question has been in my head for a while and I'm hoping someone here knows the answer. Is Deneb Stone a close equivelent in the citadel line to Light Ghost Grey in the Testor's Model Master series? I used to use those paints all the time, especially this one and it's the closest thing I can think of.
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May 14, 2011 17:52
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NecronSchmecron posted:This question has been in my head for a while and I'm hoping someone here knows the answer. I don't know why I bother! I posted a link earlier that would answer this question  http://colors.silicon-dragons.com/full_line.php sheesh, it's like some of you don't memorize every posy in the thread or something. (though to be honest I only see dark ghost grey on the Testor's list) Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 18:38 on May 14, 2011 |
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May 14, 2011 18:36
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Well excuuuuuuse me. Seriously though, I should have seen that.
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May 14, 2011 19:41
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I'm looking for tips before I start painting, concerning white. I'm looking to do a pure, pearly white like so:   I've never painted anything white before, but I'm assuming that the process would be something like this... 1 - Prime grey 2 - Basecoat with a pale blue-grey 3 - Multiple thin and even layers of white 4 - Gloss varnish Is that about right? Also, any idea how this guy got the nice brushed metal effect going?
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May 15, 2011 01:08
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I have no idea, I just wanted to say GOD drat.
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May 15, 2011 01:20
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I saw that dude's necrons in Rochester last year. He's since added a tomb stalker since that pic and it's loving gorgeous. I'll upload the pic I have of it later.
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May 15, 2011 01:31
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Sorry, it's got the stalker in that pic. gently caress this app needs an edit feature, sorry for the double post
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May 15, 2011 01:33
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Fix posted:GOD Pretty much. Here's a couple more, with the Tomb Stalker. Shame about the blur on some of these.       If you've got a better shot of the Tomb Stalker, NecronSchmecron, I'd love to see it.
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May 15, 2011 02:17
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Mango Polo posted:I'm looking for tips before I start painting, concerning white. If you have an airbrush then it will probably make it a lot easier, but I would say white or gray undercoat, shading with shadow grey, then clean up with a coat or two space wolves and white mixed, then some coats of thinned white. Vallejo acrylic thinner always added to the pearliness of my whites.
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May 15, 2011 02:23
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Those are loving badass! Pretty glad I didn't have enough money to start that Chaos Daemons army because I definitely want some Crons.
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May 15, 2011 02:24
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JAY-SUS those are some great Necrons. I really need those new 'dex rumors to be true.
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May 15, 2011 02:43
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Those necrons own bones It's like if someone found photos from an alternate timeline where the 2nd edition painting style never died out.
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May 15, 2011 03:26
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I've got a shitload of the old metal necrons I've been holding off on because I can't think of a proper scheme, but I don't know if white would fly on those, the basic shapes being different enough. They don't have those big spaces of bone quite like the plastics.
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May 15, 2011 03:46
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