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Looks like one big difference is that the Crain unit has a dust collection port. Other than that they look drat near identical.
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May 13, 2011 21:55
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Iskariot posted:Bet it's a lovely gun. Combination guns are seldom any good so go with two different guns for finishing nails and staples. Hitachi guns cost like $40-60 for finishing nailers and staple guns on Lowes. The quality is superb for a DIY-er. I picked up one of these today, and am quite happy with it. It was more like $80, but it didn't jam or misfire once.
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May 15, 2011 03:35
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stubblyhead posted:I picked up one of these today, and am quite happy with it. It was more like $80, but it didn't jam or misfire once. My only problem with the Hitahi guns are that they don't like a lot of pressure. Think I'm down to 6-7 bar on the compressor. The upside is that these guns are reliable and cheap on air. I have a cheap Chinese compressor that's reliable but is noisy as hell. Less air spent means it refills less.
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May 15, 2011 13:11
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internet celebrity posted:I don't know if any of you guys would be too familiar with flooring tools but I need a solid jamb saw. I like the long neck style for inside corners, better grip and maneuverability and I've got it narrowed down to two jamb saws, the Crain 825 Jamb Saw and the Roberts 10-55 Jamb Saw. My concern is that I can't really see the difference but I know there has to be something to justify the steep jump in price between the Roberts and the Crain. Does anyone know what the reliability is like on the Roberts vs the Crain? Does it come down to made in America vs China or something?
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May 16, 2011 04:16
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So I'm outside this morning extending the length on one of my Earthbox racks (see the veggie and herb gardening thread) to facilitate adding staking systems to my older pair. I'm one... one woodscrew from being done and the clutch or the gear or something poo poo the bed on my 3-year-old Skil cordless drill. Chuck holds (as good as it ever did), but any resistence on tighten or loosen when the drill invokes lets out a blood-curdling grind/scream/thing. Did what I could and got the staking systems in. It's all good and the peppers have a lot more room to move. Based on some information I pulled from this thread, others here on the forums and several other resources today did some looking around. I found a certain blue-logo store had the Dewalt DCD760KL priced 30 bucks off its old retail. I also found that a certain orange-logo store carried the model, would price match, and knock off another 10%. Anyway, if anyone's in the market for a mid-level 18v L-ion cordless drill, couple of clicks on some sites, a price printout and a drive to orange's place nets a nice little discount. First use tonight was unscrewing the old charger from one of the closets and mounting the new one. Each battery charged in 30 mins flat. And this thing, boy howdy it's a mother of a step up from my 80-dollar Skil. Variable speed access is super smooth and the auto-brake is quick and gentle, not wrist wrenching. I'm sure it's overkill for the household uses I'll put it through, but I definitely had enough framing projects to finish up the past few weeks that I would've loved to have this thing on, that's for sure.
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May 16, 2011 05:09
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That's good to know; I was approved by the wife yesterday to buy a new drill to replace my old nicad crafstman as a graduation present. This came after having to recharge my 2 batteries twice in order to cut out 3 3" holes in PT lumber.
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May 16, 2011 14:25
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I'm going to be cutting the bottoms off of these 5-gallon water bottles, at least a few but maybe 20 or more. What would be a good tool for this? Hacksaw, cordless jigsaw, reciprocating saw, or something else?
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May 16, 2011 22:41
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Cpt.Wacky posted:I'm going to be cutting the bottoms off of these 5-gallon water bottles, at least a few but maybe 20 or more.
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May 16, 2011 23:00
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I'd use an angle grinder with a plywood blade. Something like McMaster Carr #4079A16 A normal cutoff disc might work too, but might get loaded and slow down after a while. They're dirt cheap though. Reciprocating saws are more work to start, and towards the end of the cut they'll want to grab and vibrate.
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May 16, 2011 23:09
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grover posted:Saw blades flipped to rotate backwards work great for plastic. If you could do that with a table saw, it would probably afford you the most control, as you could keep two hands on the bottle to control it. I wish I had a table saw. All I've got right now is a circular saw and Dremel tool. Angle grinders look like fun. Any particularly good brands or models?
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May 16, 2011 23:21
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Cpt.Wacky posted:I wish I had a table saw. All I've got right now is a circular saw and Dremel tool. For cutting bottles like that just get a cheap 20 dollar 4" grinder from harbor freight / princess auto. I use mine with a cutting disk all the time for blacksmith work and it holds up really well. Just an on/off switch is sufficient for this. If you need a proper grinder, get a 4.5" one at least, and make sure it has a trigger switch.
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May 17, 2011 01:03
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I cut plastic(though, softer than a water bottle) all the time with a regular circular saw blade. A regular fine toothed plywood blade should work well. I replaced my old one with a carbide tipped Diablo, the advantage to that is not so much the carbide but the tips cut a kerf wider than the blade disc and doesn't drag against and melt the plastic.
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May 17, 2011 15:02
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Thanks for the tips. I can see some other uses for an angle grinder so I'll pursue both options. How would you go about securing the water bottle while cutting it? Another question, is $80 a good price for a used Freud router? It's a 3 1/4 HP plunge router, no bits. The guy says it's model FT2200CVE but that doesn't exist, so I'm guessing it's the FT2200E. It's a discontinued model and it was on sale years ago for $130ish. I guess it's bound to be better and cheaper than any of the $99 routers at Home Depot.
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May 17, 2011 16:43
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Cpt.Wacky posted:How would you go about securing the water bottle while cutting it? I would strap it down to the bench using a nylon tie down strap like you would use to secure cargo in a pickup truck. quote:is $80 a good price for a used Freud router?...it's model FT2200CVE That is a discontinued model, but a fair price I think. The base isn't great on that router but it does have a lot of power.
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May 17, 2011 17:12
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Got myself a Hakko Fx-888 soldering station today, spent about two hours in the garage trying it out, soldering up some things. I have to say its very nice. Brought itself up to temp so quickly I thought something was wrong with it. I don't really care for the color so much, looks like some old school nerf gun. But it works really well, and doesn't take up much desk space. Its a huge step up from a radioshack soldering iron, and it has equal build quality and faster warm up time compared to the Weller stations I've used at school.  It cost me about $100 after tax and shipping. It came with a nice screwdriver style tip, a bit of brass cleaning wool, and a nice cleaning sponge in addition to the stand and base.
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May 18, 2011 00:41
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Well I bought a new circular saw today. Got this one here: http://www.lowes.com/pd_200152-67702-C7SB2_4294857530_4294937087_?productId=1057439&Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl_Circular%2BSaws_4294857530_4294937087_%3FNs%3Dp_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1 I was also looking at a Mikita at Home depot and a Dewalt. I almost got the Mikita for $99. But it only has a 1 year warranty. loving lame. The Dewalt, had 3 yr warranty and electric brake for $130. But I saw the Hitachi, and with a 5 yr warranty and for that price I figured what the hell. Used it today to cut out my garage floor, and to cut some new joists. Had no issues, other that me being retarded. It turns out you cant cut a 2x6 all the way through with a 7 1/4" blade. Who knew. Probably everyone, but hey, at least now I know.
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May 19, 2011 02:23
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Sounds like you need a Sawzall
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May 19, 2011 03:24
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I have a sawzall. And 2 skill saws. And 2 Chop Saws. But I had my new saw out so I wanted to use it as much as possible.
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May 19, 2011 03:48
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I am need of new drill bits. A long time ago, I bought a big DeWalt box of bits from Home Depot, and it lasted alright. A lot of the bits broke eventually, and some have become lost. I'd like to get another set, but am not sure what the best bang for my buck is. Should I just go with a major name all in one set (DeWalt, Milwaukee, etc.), is there some other brand I should look at, or should I just buy bits here and there from whatever name is available?
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May 19, 2011 05:02
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mrglynis posted:Well I bought a new circular saw today. Got this one here: Metabo has a circular saw that doubles as a plunge saw - http://www.metabo.com/Plunge-Cut-and-Circular-Saw-KSE-55-Vario-Plus.31177.0.html I still don't own a plunge saw but it's pretty far up my DOWANTNOW list. Ideally I would get the Mafell so I could tell my friends that their Festool saws are "cheap" but I may settle for a Makita or Metabo. The DeWalt is the poorest choice in all tests I've seen.
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May 19, 2011 08:12
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themachine posted:I am need of new drill bits. A long time ago, I bought a big DeWalt box of bits from Home Depot, and it lasted alright. A lot of the bits broke eventually, and some have become lost. I'd like to get another set, but am not sure what the best bang for my buck is. Should I just go with a major name all in one set (DeWalt, Milwaukee, etc.), is there some other brand I should look at, or should I just buy bits here and there from whatever name is available? I've tried Bosch, DeWalt and Hitachi bits that were plain awful.
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May 19, 2011 08:17
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tworavens posted:Got myself a Hakko Fx-888 soldering station today, spent about two hours in the garage trying it out, soldering up some things. I have to say its very nice. Brought itself up to temp so quickly I thought something was wrong with it. I don't really care for the color so much, looks like some old school nerf gun. But it works really well, and doesn't take up much desk space. Thats a nice iron. I've got an old XYTronics, which is black (a plus), and was half that cost (another plus), but its been discontinued. Grr.
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May 19, 2011 14:53
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Those Hakko irons rock. I really wish I'd have bought one instead of my WES51. The stand alone is a lot nicer, and weller insists on sending pointed tips with their irons.
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May 19, 2011 15:12
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mrglynis posted:It turns out you cant cut a 2x6 all the way through with a 7 1/4" blade. Who knew. Probably everyone, but hey, at least now I know. You should be able to cut almost completely through two stacked 2-by-whatevers with a 7.25" blade. Even My $49 Ryobi adjusts up to a little over 2.5" cutting depth.
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May 19, 2011 19:52
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He's probably going for the 5.5" depth, and since the nut will be at 3 5/8....
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May 19, 2011 21:11
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I considered that, but then couldn't come up with a scenario in my head that fit. I'm always happy to take a correction where warranted though, so mrglynis has my apologies if that sounded snarky. Wasn't meant to be. 
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May 19, 2011 21:28
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Picked myself up a wood miner!quote:Aggressive carving tools for use by professionals only. These tools screw directly onto the 10mm threaded shaft of 4" angle grinders. Like the name says, they are more like wood mining machines than carving accessories. Face protection must be worn and these tools should not be used in the vicinity of other persons. Should be fun  
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May 20, 2011 01:09
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MrPete posted:Picked myself up a wood miner! Wow, looks like a great tool for removing pesky digits.
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May 20, 2011 02:47
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Oh my god, I've used those before. They're loving terrifying. Wire wheels on a grinder are pretty grabby and you can smash a finger into something if you're not careful. Carving miners/wood grinders are a hold the grinder against your hip and hold on for dear life sort of situation.
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May 20, 2011 03:07
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Hypnolobster posted:Oh my god, I've used those before. They're loving terrifying. Wire wheels on a grinder are pretty grabby and you can smash a finger into something if you're not careful. Carving miners/wood grinders are a hold the grinder against your hip and hold on for dear life sort of situation. hahah awesome, I'll see if I can get some video of the destruction then!
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May 20, 2011 04:15
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That is awesome. What are you using it for?
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May 20, 2011 04:27
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Aw, man! Just when I thought I had landed on a favorite bit set: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfA_NQHT7JI&feature=youtu.be Sales pitch aside, the last bit (*cackle*) of the video is interesting. The slipping of the bit is a sure way to ruin both screw and bit.
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May 20, 2011 13:25
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I'm not one to get scared much, but my Lancelot (chainsaw on an angle grinder) scared me and put a huge channel in a piece of wood I was turning into a fruit bowl. Threw it away that day and went back to hand chisels. Every time I used it, I fully expected to end up in the emergency room. I have no idea how anyone does anything useful with them but I've seen pictures so there's that. I secretly believe that it's actually done with a Foredom and they just pose an angle grinder with the piece for effect.
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May 22, 2011 00:43
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Well fellas, the wood miner was a bit of a bust. For all the scary warnings and whatnot it was pretty tame. No worse than freehanding a router in my opinion. That's a piece of camphor I was using as a test. It took the wood away OK but nothing spectacular. Did work a bit better on a bit of lovely pine from an old pallet. Anyhoo, time to pony up and just buy the Arbortech wood carver like I wanted to in the first place!
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May 23, 2011 09:26
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Was the grinder itself powerful enough to make it spin at the speed you wanted?
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May 23, 2011 18:22
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Looking back at it, the woodminer looks like it would be OK. The way it's laid out it looks like it would limit the depth of cut to something reasonable. This is the thing that hated my fruit bowl: http://tinyurl.com/3w4v2mo (woodcraft link) It still looks like a bad idea, a year later. Eep.
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May 23, 2011 20:20
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Slung Blade posted:Was the grinder itself powerful enough to make it spin at the speed you wanted? Yeah, grinder was not an issue. I really pushed down hard to try and make it stall but it didn't. I was just expecting a much more aggressive cut for all the warnings and whatnot. The Lancelot looks like it might do a better job!
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May 25, 2011 01:52
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ARE SAWS  http://www.npr.org/2011/05/25/136617222/advocates-urge-lawmakers-to-make-table-saws-safer In all seriousness, I'm glad this is getting some attention. I'm not sure if I think it should be required equipment, but it's good that this is getting some attention at least.
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May 25, 2011 16:13
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I think the sawstop tech or similar should be required on table saws, even if it adds $100 to the cost of each saw. The NPR article says they're 40k table saw injuries per year in emergency rooms, and each visit probably costs one or two thousand bucks (and much more for injuries requiring hospitalization and surgeries). I can't find the number of table saws sold per year, but I doubt the total increased cost from putting in the safety tech would be more than the $40 million in ER bills plus the cost in lost productivity for the injured parties. If you want to argue that not everyone should have to pay the $100 in order to save a thousand bucks for the idiot who can't use a table saw properly, I would counter that the health insurance company that's paying the hospital bill spreads that thousand bucks over all its policy holders, so you'd be paying more in increased premiums. Arguing that the free market should reign free is kind of silly, we would hardly have seen any increase in automotive safety if standards weren't enforced by the government. My only reservation would be about the sawstop gouging on the licensing of the tech if it were mandated by the government.
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May 25, 2011 16:49
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dyne posted:My only reservation would be about the sawstop gouging on the licensing of the tech if it were mandated by the government. To me this is the biggest issue anyone who isn't "anti-gubmit" should have. I'm not sure if any auto safety innovations (seat belts, airbags, etc) have been in the same situation in the past or not. However, as with all granted monopolies, the government should be in a position to regulate them. But good luck with that in this political climate.
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May 25, 2011 17:57
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