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Any ideas why my car might be throwing that 2096 lean bank 1 CEL? 05 WRX, ~100k miles. I guess I should replace the oxygen sensor, but I'd like some input before I run out and spend the money.
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May 13, 2011 03:52
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Wrar posted:Any ideas why my car might be throwing that 2096 lean bank 1 CEL? 05 WRX, ~100k miles. check for a leak between the maf sensor and turbo.
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May 13, 2011 04:58
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jamal posted:with the bigger rear bar you were picking up the inside rear tire and the car has no LSD, so it was using VDC to try to stop wheel spin. That is exactly what was happening, interesting. I have seen some auto x guys run giant front bars on these cars. With that explanation I can visualize why that would increase or promote oversteer, thanks.
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May 13, 2011 19:56
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jamal posted:with the bigger rear bar you were picking up the inside rear tire and the car has no LSD, so it was using VDC to try to stop wheel spin.
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May 13, 2011 20:01
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overnight parts. from japan
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May 13, 2011 20:49
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a front diff:
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May 13, 2011 21:25
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Woooo!
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May 13, 2011 21:37
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I got rear ended in my Forester at a stop light today on my way between the airport and work. The rear clip is hosed and the lift gate is going to need to be repainted at least. It was fairly low speed (some woman hit me while I was waiting to do a legal right on red) and her insurance company has accepted responsibility so it is their turn to gently caress me over now. Looks like mostly body damage so far. I'll check it out closer tomorrow. My main concern is the driveline - there's nothing in there that could be damaged in a collision like that, right? Not ever having been rear ended or owning an AWD vehicle before, I thought I'd at least ask before taking it in for estimates.
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May 13, 2011 23:04
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jamal posted:overnight parts. from japan I love the EMS airmail labels they use 
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May 13, 2011 23:20
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Anyone know how the impreza sends power to the chirp? I was having the common chirp problem, so I went to fix it using this fix. When I put the buzzer back in, the drat thing just sat there ringing continuously. I thought I hosed up my soldering job or something, so I just went to radio shack and got a $4 buzzer as recommended in the thread. Same issue. It doesn't make sense that it sits there buzzing. Why is it constantly sending power to it? Is that normal? Either both my buzzers are hosed or my car is doing something weird. My chirp stopped working before I changed my head unit so I don't know if that might have something to do with it. Is there any wiring in the head unit that I could have touched that would cause this to happen? I used a wiring harness and plugged it right into the OEM one.
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May 13, 2011 23:29
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granny shifting, not double clutching like you should
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May 14, 2011 00:06
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(((k))) posted:That is exactly what was happening, interesting. I have seen some auto x guys run giant front bars on these cars. With that explanation I can visualize why that would increase or promote oversteer, thanks. And then the guy in the standard car comes along and beats their rear end stupid because he understand there's something called weight shift and fixing a "geometry issue" with sway bars is ignoring 120 years of susension design plus how real cars actually work. I am very happy to go against anyone who thinks big front bars work and then point the times on the course back at them. Hell, I REMOVE the front bar on the rally car on dirt and run the smallest one possible on tarmac. I run standard motors, drivelines and just DMS - again I just smugly point at the times and the fact I can have the car at any angle at any speed to prove my point. IF you have a suspension geometry issue, do what people have done for 100 years and fix it with geometry fixes, not this utter bullshit of sway bars - but also see below, the real answer can not and will not be words on paper. quote:Now I've been told by possibly unreliable sources that when one does have LSDs they should reduce the bar size on that end (and possibly increase spring rate). What says AI? Right, HERE is a reason to really change the bars. Altho changing spring rates is a better idea and leave the bars as a final tuning device. The true answer is "It depends". On my old VR4 I dropped back from a race duty rear bar to standard (21mm to 14mm) which was part of the reason why I could hold it flat over a cresting corner without fear - but there was a lot more low speed understeer due to the diff and the smaller rear bar (cured with a hydralic handbrake) Plus there's LSD's and then there's other LSD's with different locking actions and degrees of violence in their workings and how long is a piece of string? The handling of the car will react in different ways - the common thing they will have is that you will increase grip on that axle and either promote understeer or oversteer depending on the axle - but also, in what speed range do you want to tune your handlign for? A RWD ith a tight LSD will want to understeer at slow speeds but be seriously fun and throttle steery at high speeds if you make changes to fix the low speed understeer you can ruin the fun up fast. So I think the real answer is that the answer can not and will not be summed up in a sentance because the factors you are changing and want to change are all variable and there's plenty of areas to look at. I went to a plated Spec C STI diff on the STI and that created more initial understeer but also allowed for hilariously huge oversteer on power slides. Chaange I made at the time were to tap up the stiffness at the rear (aiming for low speed changes), reconnected the front bar (tarmac, it comes off for the wet or dirt). Changes to be made centre around geometry, ie ramp up the castor, which I'm going to use the free mod + spacers instead of a ALK. I'll also be putting in adjustible rear arms to give me more rear track, which will again cause understeer but give me more high speed stability. I also run a 14mm rear bar. Most of all, to fix the hairpin issue.... yep hydralic handbrake, gently caress it I'll just override the chassis! =^_^= This setup may not work for you because as stated, suspension is not just about a few lines, it is about a whole multitude of factors and understanding the whole package. Just saying X does this as many books and forums do ignores what you do can change things in polar opposites at different speed ranges, under brakes, in the wet, in the dry etc plus not to mention the kind of tyre you want to use. The best answer thence is get your hands dirty, get a stopwtch out, go test. What you find works best may not be what you have been told. Oh and ummmm....... actually I also forgot one part that I got reminded when I looked up and saw my dyno charts. I seriously changed how the car works by doing the tuning and have to make a lot of changes for the car to behave whent he boost comes on. Yes, how the power gets delivered also defines your handling. Progressive power or peaky? Low down or high up? Turbo big banger or four pot screamer?
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May 14, 2011 00:33
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Got a question about a goon's car. Don't remember what thread it was in but a goon posted his mid '00s black subaru wagon after he downgraded to 17" (rotas?) rims and specifically was showing off his Continental Extreme DWS tires. I remember a specific exchange going on in one thread about his new rims and tires. Reason I ask is I worked on a Subaru today in my shop that was identical in literally every way, was just (not creepy) wondering if he was a seattle Goon. Ideas?
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May 14, 2011 06:29
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Cat Terrist posted:And then the guy in the standard car comes along and beats their rear end stupid because he understand there's something called weight shift and fixing a "geometry issue" with sway bars is ignoring 120 years of susension design plus how real cars actually work. I am an obsessive researcher and without question the number one recommended "upgrade" is for sway bars. I really like this thread and the knowledgeable people in it. It's almost impossible to distill the misinformation and recommendations found on other Subaru forums. Admittedly as an ignorant enthusiast it's somewhat difficult to know what's what. Also, suspension is complex and interrelated, the correct application of the desired effect is not always intuitive or widely known. Most if not all of the forums are very commercialized and push aftermarket products heavily. I see a lot of guys with so many aftermarket parts on their street cars it's insane. The desire to improve these cars seems to be what everyone talks about, but I agree that improving the driver should be the focus. I really wasn't saying that sentence made me understand the nuances of suspension design and it's effects. It did help me to visualize one piece of the puzzle though. I myself want to understand and learn in general unrelated to a shopping list. It's somewhat difficult if you are ignorant and the forum has an ulterior motive to sell products and the users are somehow justifying their extravagant mods and purchases.
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May 14, 2011 19:31
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Cat Terrist posted:IF you have a suspension geometry issue, do what people have done for 100 years and fix it with geometry fixes, not this utter bullshit of sway bars. While true, this is the only option for those that run SCCA autocross in stock class here in America, which is what I think the previous poster was referring to. Basically, the only performance modifications you can make in that class are front swaybar, tires (any size but on stock size wheels), and shocks (can be adjustable but must retain same dimensions as OEM and use OEM springs). I don't know why these particular modifications are allowed but it's been that way for a long time and I guess it's hard to get the rules changed to make any sense. With these limitations in modification and the quick transitions and slaloms in autocross courses, any Subaru running stock class will benefit from a big front bar because that's pretty much all they can do. Now, if you were to move up to a street touring class where real suspension modifications are allowed, that's a whole different ballgame.
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May 14, 2011 21:00
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Lazor posted:While true, this is the only option for those that run SCCA autocross in stock class here in America, which is what I think the previous poster was referring to. Basically, the only performance modifications you can make in that class are front swaybar, tires (any size but on stock size wheels), and shocks (can be adjustable but must retain same dimensions as OEM and use OEM springs). I don't know why these particular modifications are allowed but it's been that way for a long time and I guess it's hard to get the rules changed to make any sense. With these limitations in modification and the quick transitions and slaloms in autocross courses, any Subaru running stock class will benefit from a big front bar because that's pretty much all they can do. Now, if you were to move up to a street touring class where real suspension modifications are allowed, that's a whole different ballgame. In ESP, I have a lot of freedom suspension wise (including overnight diff from Japan), I just wish I had the time, money, and real knowledge to do something with it. (thanks Cat Terrist, lots of info to digest) I probably need to get my shocks rebuilt next season and hopefully will be able to get a matching rear diff and then I hope to play around a bit more. nm fucked around with this message at 21:29 on May 14, 2011 |
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May 14, 2011 21:19
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I'm actually really interested to see what upgrading springs, shocks and adding more caster will do to the car, as almost everyone I've talked to has always gone for swaybars first. I always figured swaybars as a chassis balance solution seemed to fight against every other part of the suspension to some extent. I'm hoping that having a properly set up damping along with stiffer springs should help to fight roll on their own.
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May 15, 2011 00:01
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm actually really interested to see what upgrading springs, shocks and adding more caster will do to the car, as almost everyone I've talked to has always gone for swaybars first. I'm on completely stock swaybars. I've always felt and been told that swaybars are the last thing to change. They are used to fine tune the suspension once you've dialed everything else in as much as possible. People go for swaybars first because it is cheap.
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May 15, 2011 04:19
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Swaybars are usually one of the first things I recommend. You get a nice, noticeable difference and a better handling car for not much money. For ultimate grip you really want the suspension to be as soft as possible while still keeping the tire in level contact with the road. You'd determine how soft is too soft by taking temps across the tire. On a track/race Subaru, I don't like to see much more than -3 degrees of front camber, so if you're up that far and still cooking the outside edges you need more roll rate. With even a sticky street tire (i.e. Hankook RS3), you simply can't get enough roll stiffness on just springs without going to excessively high rates, so you have to use swaybars. Having a spring that is too stiff has plenty of downsides- you overheat the tire, reduce suspension travel, and really lose grip over rough surfaces and bumps. Essentially the tire ends up doing more suspension work than the actual strut and spring itself. With a lot of swaybar, you lose suspension independence, but over a relatively smooth surface it's not that big of a deal. In practice, on a Subaru or Evo set up for the track, using a lot of swaybar works best. On the stickiest of street tires the ideal range is around 450-500lb/in springs with at least 24mm swaybars. We use R888s, which are DOT treaded R-comps, and our spring rates are up to 750f/800r, with 27mm bars. We also have a pretty decent amount of downforce so without a big wing and splitter I would drop the rates slightly. Ok, now let's go back to a regular street car. With RCE black springs and 22mm swaybars, I have all the rate I need to keep decent summer tires in their happy place without extreme alignment numbers. With more spring or swaybar I would get a firmer, more responsive car, and it would make me faster on an auto-x course. jamal fucked around with this message at 06:42 on May 15, 2011 |
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May 15, 2011 06:38
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jamal posted:granny shifting, not double clutching like you should I want to hear more about this. I think my 1 and 3rd gear synchro are going on my 2000 OBW. How do I test this? If I throw it into 1st from a stop within about 1 second of pushing the clutch pedal in it grinds. Bad synchro? And before you ask, my trans oil looks like fresh motor oil but it smells like burning a little bit. Is that just what gear oil smells like?
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May 15, 2011 07:17
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Rontalvos posted:I want to hear more about this. I think my 1 and 3rd gear synchro are going on my 2000 OBW. How do I test this? If I throw it into 1st from a stop within about 1 second of pushing the clutch pedal in it grinds. Bad synchro? My tuner has a blown third gear in his second gearbox (so many meth pulls!) so it's nice to see that he might not have to pony up for a third gearbox. quote:And before you ask, my trans oil looks like fresh motor oil but it smells like burning a little bit. Is that just what gear oil smells like? If you've never replaced it, it might be worth doing.
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May 15, 2011 14:21
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Pretty much all of the Subaru 5-speeds are difficult to get into first gear from a roll, but not being able to get it in from a stop would seem to imply "bad synchro" to me. Luckily you can get a new gearbox for your car for cheap, and the rebuilds are apparently pretty easy judging from how quickly and cheaply jamal has resuscitated this gearbox. The car is a month old to me, so I have no clue when it was last changed. I have some service records so I'll go through those and see if it says anything, I'd call the PO but he is unbelievably clueless about cars, he just took it to the dealership for everything.
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May 15, 2011 17:33
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start with trying a fluid change. Everyone likes the OEM Extra-S. Your best option is probably to just learn to drive around it. My car doesn't like downshifting to 1st or 4th but I've gotten used to timing it right so it goes in easier, and sometimes I'll double clutch. To take a transmission out and rebuild it is about 800 in labor and then each syncro set costs about 120. You'd also want to replace some of the bearings when it's apart and possibly a couple of selector hubs and gears with worn out selector teeth so it could easily end up being a +1500+ repair. If you're breaking 5-speed gears, start by getting the widest possible ones out of a newer 04+ transmission, and getting them treated in some way. 3/4 gearset is about $200 and then treatment is in the 300 range so you're looking at a 1300 repair. Just a PPG gearset is close to 4k, so at that price you might as well do a 6-speed swap. jamal fucked around with this message at 21:01 on May 15, 2011 |
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May 15, 2011 20:58
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What kind of prices are 6 speeds going for in the us? The cheapest I've seen is a nasioc reseller with used gearboxes and a whole swap kit (axles, etc) for around $3700 shipped.
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May 15, 2011 22:46
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Just wondering what everyone uses for reading codes? The nearest shop  Canadian Tire wants $120 to tell me what particular CEL my car is throwing.
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May 15, 2011 23:48
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm actually really interested to see what upgrading springs, shocks and adding more caster will do to the car, as almost everyone I've talked to has always gone for swaybars first. a) You figured right but b) Roll is not necessarily an evil to be avoided. I regularly tricycle my WRX and even have two wheels in the air around corners and I still make short work of modded cars - up to the point I get ripped on down the straight when 50-70 more Kw eats me alive. Like understeer is not always an evil a gentle understeer that you can power through is a drat good thing - the whole thing shows I'm making my tyres work and the chassis is exploited to it's potential. For a classic example of handling vs grip, look no further than Lotus modified Escorts verses well pretty much anything else. The Lotus picks up wheels, waves it's rear end at any angle and mauls bigger and more powerful cars, yet did poo poo skidpan numbers. That said, the STI has springs/shocks and will soon have castor mods with aforementioned lack of bar replacements. This is indeed the way to go, except I got the castor mod rear end about, it should be first. All that said, I feel that I am running up against diff issues now - the VLSD's on the WRX are crap and old, the centre on the STI needs changing too. So thence my next step in handling will be driveline, which does gt overlooked too much. quote:You get a nice, noticeable difference and a better handling car for not much money. But you dont in reality - On a stocker, the most effective changes are what you otherwise espouse - castor, alignment, bushes. The castor mod in particular is extremely effective in the real world and also against a stop watch. I can not point to a timesheet that says bars first work, I can do that with castor. Bars last is really what everyone should be doing, get the rest of the package in, then do the final tuning for what you want to do it for. There is no denying for very sticky wide tyres you need to lock the car in place as much as possible so as to keep the geometry movement to basically zero, but you have also already done everything else and htat includes hte driveline - or at least you better have, big bars alone wont work. Changing bars is easy, but that's not reason enough to deviate from the best practice that we know and can prove works. The fact that changing bars is easy is what makes them the final tuning solution to the overall package. It can make the car "feel" different and in almost in all cases the responses that the car handles better is the driver working out that their car was a lot better than they knew of. quote:While true, this is the only option for those that run SCCA autocross in stock class here in America, which is what I think the previous poster was referring to. Basically, the only performance modifications you can make in that class are front swaybar, tires (any size but on stock size wheels), and shocks (can be adjustable but must retain same dimensions as OEM and use OEM springs). I don't know why these particular modifications are allowed but it's been that way for a long time and I guess it's hard to get the rules changed to make any sense. With these limitations in modification and the quick transitions and slaloms in autocross courses, any Subaru running stock class will benefit from a big front bar because that's pretty much all they can do. Now, if you were to move up to a street touring class where real suspension modifications are allowed, that's a whole different ballgame. Here's a truth that I've worked out that I think a lot of autocrossers havent. With Subarus there's "stock" and then there's the parts catalogue stock. Parts catalogue stock is a wealth of parts that can substansially increase the performance of a car and even the most rear end in a top hat of rule checkers cant beat. So for instance, did you know that Subaru occasionally let cars with R180 rear ends out in the standard WRX? What about trick springs? How about shocks, or bodyshells that escaped getting soundproofing? Game the rules and piss off a lot of people is fun when you find you can, for not much, make a stock car quite a bit better and still keep within the terms of stock quite easily. Subaru puts all sorts of odd things on the cars now and then, you just need to go looking (My partner's car - sliiped out of the factory with a R180 Suretrak. Mine got out with bushes and STI suspension - Absolutly from the showroom. And if you really want to take it to the final degree, the N12 is a showroom stock car. The thing I described above is what I intend to do next year - I've found ECU's that give me 25 more Kw, different brakes, a few different bits of suspension, a bit of wieght to disappear and hey presto a car no one can protest but about a second a kilometer quicker. )
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May 16, 2011 00:32
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Simkin posted:Just wondering what everyone uses for reading codes? The nearest shop Uhg, the worst I was quoted in the US was $40 on my old stratus. I got an AP for my WRX so not sure what's cheap, but I imagine any OBD-II would work. 20-40 bucks USD for a cheap one probably. In the states, Autozones and Advance Auto parts will to it for free because they want to sell you the parts to fix it. Maybe find a place like that that stands to benefit from a potential sale by helping you?
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May 16, 2011 01:03
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Some of that I agree with. ALK, better alignment, good tires at the top of the list, but there's still a really good case for swaybars. CT, have you ever actually taken temps across the tires at a track day? Your fronts are going to be way hotter and the outside of them hotter still. If you were getting more out of all four tires and more out of the fronts you'd just be that much faster. On my own car I have these snazzy whiteline top mounts along with an ALK:  And I still want to pick up some high caster STI aluminum arms. And yes that says horsecock In the US, there's no such thing as a WRX with STi suspension or an R180 rear diff. In fact, the R180 isn't possible without a switch to the sti rear hubs, parking brakes, and group N rotors too. jamal fucked around with this message at 08:00 on May 16, 2011 |
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May 16, 2011 02:29
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Kageneko posted:Uhg, the worst I was quoted in the US was $40 on my old stratus. Huh. Will check around. UAP/NAPA would sell me a reader for about the price that it would cost me to get Crappy Tire to just scan, but I don't feel like buying one if I don't need ot.
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May 16, 2011 02:46
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Simkin posted:Just wondering what everyone uses for reading codes? The nearest shop Princess Auto sells standalone ODBII readers for about 90 bucks.
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May 16, 2011 03:36
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Rock on. Will check them out tomorrow. Thanks.
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May 16, 2011 03:47
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Just did the front pads on my 07 and man, that's one of the easiest things I've ever done on a car. Took longer to drive down to O'Reilly to pick up a thing of anti-squeal lube. Substantially easier than changing the loving fog light bulb that's for sure.
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May 16, 2011 04:33
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Just did the front pads on my 07 and man, that's one of the easiest things I've ever done on a car. Took longer to drive down to O'Reilly to pick up a thing of anti-squeal lube. Substantially easier than changing the loving fog light bulb that's for sure. Changing headlight and fog bulbs on some cars is a royal pain in the rear end.
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May 16, 2011 04:39
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I did the headlights yesterday and it would have been a million times easier if I had bothered to try and unclip the headlight retention clip instead of deciding I should unscrew the screw, swearing because I don't own a short enough screwdriver, and then spending two hours working around the ABS module trying to remove it. So take it from me - just squeeze and pull on the drat retention clip, like the manual says. 10 minute job. I am not looking forward to doing the foglights.
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May 16, 2011 06:16
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So... My 2002 Impreza RS is acting up on me again. I'm just about to hit 90,000 miles with it. CEL came on for the knock sensor. I've noticed that my car has felt kind of gutted and not running at its best. The engine sounds real bassy as if I had an exhaust and it just feels weak. I've read and heard some people saying that a faulty knock sensor can really gently caress with your engine. So I Cleared the CEL, and it came back a week later. So the knock sensor obviously needed to be replaced. Drove my car around for about another week after the fact and the CEL turned off and on randomly. I finally replaced the sensor today (The CEL hasn't been on for about 5 days now) and have been driving around. And the car still just doesn't feel 100%. Should I unplug my battery to see if it will essentially reset the computer and recognize the new sensor? What other issues could going on here?
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May 16, 2011 06:24
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jamal posted:Some of that I agree with. ALK, better alignment, good tires at the top of the list, but there's still a really good case for swaybars. CT, have you ever actually taken temps across the tires at a track day? Your fronts are going to be way hotter and the outside of them hotter still. If you were getting more out of all four tires and more out of the fronts you'd just be that much faster. My rears usually end up being rather warm and pretty close to the fronts and the temperature is pretty decent across the tyre. Also doing visual clues (too many people have forgotten you can see exactly what a car is doing by reading the tyre) I'm not unduly stressing the fronts except when I miss the apex. If I miss apexes the car dissolves into an understeering pig, but on the right line no problem. Lesson - correct lines! And frankly around Wakefield Park I have 2 seconds I can make by just doing that, better braking points etc. I'd get more out of all four I suspect with diffs, given how much I tend to kerb hop and have no problem with wheel lifting.
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May 16, 2011 12:20
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So, I mentioned I had done my front pads last night, but I'm going through the FSM again and have a question: I went with Stoptech street performance pads, and before I put them in I did a quick looking around online, and it seemed like the consensus was that the factory shims weren't needed, as the Stoptech's had their own shims. So I lubed them up with CRC Anti-squeal, and they seem great. Was that right? I didn't use either of the two shims, or the spacer. 11, 12, and 17. 
DEUCE SLUICE fucked around with this message at 00:09 on May 17, 2011 |
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May 17, 2011 00:05
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nm
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May 17, 2011 00:31
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What are your opinions on the 2008 Forester XT and the 2008 STi? I went to dealer today to look at the Forester, and of course he leads me to the STi. Now, the STi has been on the lot for nearly 4 months with only 16k miles, to me a warning flag. Their excuse is people are cheap, and they're scared because it's an '08. The mechanic said that if it had problems with the crankshaft (?? I forget the faulty component) it would have been replaced already. Test drives were fun on both. Drove smoothly, nothing stuck out except a strange howling sound at a stoplight in the STi, couldn't determine the source, if it was even the STi itself. Obviously the STi beats the Forester in excitement, but the Forester is about 6k cheaper. Then I read about engine failures in the '09 models with less than 10k miles. I am frightened.
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May 17, 2011 22:19
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CT- try borrowing a pyrometer for your next track day brake shims- don't need them, might keep noise down that 08 - with 16k it would have already spun a bearing probably. this was something that happened on a few cars within like 2000 miles. I would want a leakdown test done though
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May 17, 2011 22:26
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