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Yes, nearly all still film is daylight balanced, though until recently, you could buy tungsten reversal film. Most people either correct through lighting or during printing.
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May 18, 2011 17:16
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http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-cameras-camcorders-Cibachrome-print-processor-for-slide-film-W0QQAdIdZ283143474 I have no idea what this contraption is but I feel compelled to buy it. Ilford CAP-40. Apparently makes prints from slides automatically? Should I?
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May 18, 2011 17:47
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Shot some film at a wedding a few weeks ago, got a few great photos out of it: Dog tired by Chris Hayden Photo, on Flickr  sometimes a cigar by Chris Hayden Photo, on Flickr I've started to assemble my chemicals in preparation for developing myself for the first time. I picked up Kodak Tmax developer and Rapid Fixer. I'm planning on shooting Tri-X 400. The Rapid Fixer comes with a separate bottle of hardener. I've read that hardener isn't necessary with modern film, can I safely skip it in the developing process? Also, do I need photoflo for the final rinse before hanging to dry? Someone early in the thread mentioned using distilled water for the final rinse.
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May 18, 2011 18:28
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XTimmy posted:I feel like a right tard here but I have to ask: I'm used to dealing with film (cine) stock and with film stock your order your film based on the ISO(ASA) and then what the stock is balanced too. So it'd be something like Kodak Vision3 5213 500T for 500ASA Tungsten balanced stock. My question is: What are most still emulsions balanced to? I'm guessing daylight? What's the normal process for balancing to something like tungsten? Do you whack a filter on the camera or do you ask the print guy to run a filter over it before it's printed? Most still emulsions are daylight. I know that Fuji makes T64, a tungsten-balanced slide film (which has excellent reciprocity characteristics; I use it for night photography). To balance daylight film correctly for tungsten lighting, use a #80A filter. Mightaswell posted:http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-cameras-camcorders-Cibachrome-print-processor-for-slide-film-W0QQAdIdZ283143474 I want this very badly, but I don't have any access to an actual darkroom or color enlarger. Good luck with your automatic Cibachrome processor 
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May 18, 2011 18:48
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red19fire posted:Also, do I need photoflo for the final rinse before hanging to dry? Someone early in the thread mentioned using distilled water for the final rinse. Yes, you do need a wetting agent. It lowers the surface tension of the water, making it stick less to the film, and easier to remove. Using distilled water avoids impurities from the water dirtying the film. Using wetting agent prevents the water from ruining parts of the developed image during drying. What you risk when not using wetting agent is parts of the emulsion actually being "washed away".
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May 18, 2011 18:49
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nielsm posted:Yes, you do need a wetting agent. It lowers the surface tension of the water, making it stick less to the film, and easier to remove. Using distilled water avoids impurities from the water dirtying the film. Using wetting agent prevents the water from ruining parts of the developed image during drying. What you risk when not using wetting agent is parts of the emulsion actually being "washed away". Thanks. Followup question: How do I dispose of chemicals? This video says they just dump it down the drain, but that can't be right. I'm thinking I should pour them into separate mountain dew bottles and have the camera shop dispose of them? Which ones do you reuse? Fixer?
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May 18, 2011 19:21
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Here's Kodak's take on how to dispose of stuff(most stuff down the drain unless you're a lab.) http://www.kodak.com/eknec/documents/05/0900688a800f8105/J300ENG.pdf I reuse fix, some people reuse developer, but I tend to use D76 as 1:1 and use it as a one shot. Really I don't think using a fixer with a hardener hurts though, maybe a bit more protection for the negative, however I could be off base on this.
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May 18, 2011 19:54
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How long do you generally wash for? E: and do you use 20C or just cold water? E2: Negatives, how long do you wash negatives. Prathm fucked around with this message at 20:17 on May 18, 2011 |
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May 18, 2011 20:08
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^^^ 2 mins in Permawash followed by 5 minutes of continuous running water wash. Crossposting this from the discussion thread: Everyone in the Bay Area get to the Harvey Milk center and buy darkroom supplies for $1/pound! I just got a 8-reel tank and 4 unused speed-easels last night for $5!
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May 18, 2011 20:34
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I'm collecting my used chemicals in large jugs, which I then turn in at a recycling station. Both the developer and fixer I'm using specifically warn against draining them, but it depends on the specific chemical. Stop bath is just a diluted acid, possibly with an indicator, and should be safe to dump in the drain, and wetting agent/photo flo is to some degree just a detergent. And I use the washing procedure outlined in the how-to post on page 1 of this thread: Fill the tank with cold water, invert 10 times, drain. Fill again, invert 20 times, drain. Fill, invert 30 times, drain. After the third round I add my diluted wetting agent, lightly agitate (to avoid excessive foam), let it sit for a while, then return it to the bottle.
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May 18, 2011 20:45
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atomicthumbs posted:Most still emulsions are daylight. I know that Fuji makes T64, a tungsten-balanced slide film (which has excellent reciprocity characteristics; I use it for night photography). To balance daylight film correctly for tungsten lighting, use a #80A filter.
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May 18, 2011 20:46
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McMadCow posted:^^^ 2 mins in Permawash followed by 5 minutes of continuous running water wash. Yaaaay I helped someone 
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May 18, 2011 20:59
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GWBBQ posted:I guess it's intended for professional use because I can't imagine ISO64 film that costs $15 would be at all appealing to the average consumer. Where the hell are you looking? It's $6 for a roll of 120 and $8.99 for a roll of 35mm on Freestyle. The combination of tungsten balance and holding reciprocity until four minutes make it very appealing for night photography.
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May 18, 2011 21:01
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atomicthumbs posted:Yaaaay I helped someone Are you a member there? Would I recognize you? Are you the guy who took my prints out of the washer early last night? If so- watch your back.
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May 18, 2011 21:04
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atomicthumbs posted:Where the hell are you looking? It's $6 for a roll of 120 and $8.99 for a roll of 35mm on Freestyle.
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May 18, 2011 21:14
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Mightaswell posted:http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-cameras-camcorders-Cibachrome-print-processor-for-slide-film-W0QQAdIdZ283143474 Sup Calgary goon. I saw that this morning. Seems interesting.
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May 18, 2011 21:57
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Is $50 a good price for a Nikomat FTN in good condition? I just fell in love with one.McMadCow posted:Are you a member there? Would I recognize you? Are you the guy who took my prints out of the washer early last night? Don't worry, I live up in Marin. I didn't mess up your prints. you can't get me
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May 18, 2011 22:37
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I'm thinking of getting a rangefinder, are russian cameras generally better to get than the compacts because they're much cheaper/easier to service yourself in case it's hosed up?
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May 19, 2011 00:06
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Fiannaiocht posted:I'm thinking of getting a rangefinder, are russian cameras generally better to get than the compacts because they're much cheaper/easier to service yourself in case it's hosed up? No. Most old cameras are roughly the same with regards to servicing. Russian cameras get the edge because there are so many of them out there that you can get another one if you gently caress up the one you're working on. If you want a camera that's simple to fix, get an Argus C3.
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May 19, 2011 00:31
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Yeah, I broke the main viewfinder on my old Russian rangefinder and even though I got it reset pretty well it was never really the same. I ended up trading it for a dinner of duck curry. TOTALLY worth it.
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May 19, 2011 00:55
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Mightaswell posted:http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-cameras-camcorders-Cibachrome-print-processor-for-slide-film-W0QQAdIdZ283143474 quote:Just expose the paper and slip it into the machine which will move it through developer, fixer and washing baths automatically in 3 minutes. Sounds like you have to make the prints yourself, it just develops them for you. If you're already set up to make dozens of prints at a time, then this thing would be great.
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May 19, 2011 01:18
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Mightaswell posted:http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-cameras-camcorders-Cibachrome-print-processor-for-slide-film-W0QQAdIdZ283143474 Yeah I want that very badly. Cibachrome (aka ilfochrome) printing is one of the most archivally stable forms of color printing, and produces somewhat high contrast, high saturation prints. It is also a very standardized process, once you calibrate your setup only minor adjustments are needed for additional prints. Chemistry and paper is somewhat expensive and must be bought in quantity though. It doesn't auto-print, it is an automated processor for the paper after you expose it with a properly outfitted color enlarger, which the seller is also offering for a 'modest price.' I would snap up the complete set if it were closer to me.
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May 19, 2011 01:23
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Heading to the store tomorrow to buy the bulk of a my-first-developer-kit, and thought I'd do a quick check to see if I'm getting fleeced. Got an ebay changing bag already paterson universal tank - $50.80 (gently caress Australia, gently caress CR Kennedy importers, gently caress B&H and freestyle for charging stupid amounts for shipping from the US). Thermometer (15cm) - $11.10 LC-29 500ml - $37.50 (see note on the paterson tank!) Ilfostop - $18.50 Hypam Fixer - $19.60 FotoFlo - $5.90 Cotton Gloves - $3.00 Questions remaining are many and varied, and help is appreciated -Is any of this unnecessary or available for less delivered to Aus? -I'm shooting 120 (and some 135) and would like to develop 2 rolls at a time, but the 3x135 paterson tank is $52 and then reels are on top of that. Can I live with 1x120 at a time or is it worth spending the money now? This film exercise is already way over budget for me, even by photography terms -Can a larger tank be used to develop 1 roll at a time with the same amount of chemistry as a smaller tank if necessary? -What graduated cylinders do you recommend? I'm looking at 1x25ml or 1x50ml depending on tank + 1Lt measuring cup from the supermarket to keep prices down. Do I need more accuracy than that? -Do I need multiple measuring cups to prep chemistry all at once or can it be done just as well with minimal kit? -Is a film squeezer necessary to clean/dry the film or just use the wetting agent and air dry? -Should I be looking at ID-11 instead of the LC-29? I really like the idea of preparing single shot for 1 or 2 rolls of 120 and keeping the rest in storage for 6-12 months as needed, and also like the idea of mixing liquids rather than dissolving powders. HC-110 is out of the question as it isn't imported to Aus by anyone. Kodak have said they don't want to know about anyone who wants to import it.
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May 19, 2011 13:18
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Can anyone recommend a place to send C-41 for push processing? I'd like to try shooting some Fuji 800Z at 1600 this weekend, but I'm having trouble finding somewhere to get the processing done.
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May 19, 2011 21:45
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Beerios posted:Can anyone recommend a place to send C-41 for push processing? I'd like to try shooting some Fuji 800Z at 1600 this weekend, but I'm having trouble finding somewhere to get the processing done.
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May 19, 2011 22:47
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HPL posted:No. Most old cameras are roughly the same with regards to servicing. Russian cameras get the edge because there are so many of them out there that you can get another one if you gently caress up the one you're working on. If you want a camera that's simple to fix, get an Argus C3. More props for Argus: the 1950s Argus C-four is pretty fantastic. They're also fairly cheap ($10-50 on ebay), the ergonomics are a lot better than the C3 brick, and the coated Cintar 50mm lens is sharp and contrasty as all hell. I think it's sharper than a lot of my SLR lenses. Only lame thing is the lack of strap lugs.
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May 19, 2011 23:09
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TheLastManStanding posted:http://www.photoworkssf.com/services-and-rates/mail-us-your-film Nice, that's cheaper than I expected to see. Found a local place that might do it but seems like they mostly just work with pros, I'll call them tomorrow and see what their deal is.
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May 19, 2011 23:23
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Captain Postal posted:Heading to the store tomorrow to buy the bulk of a my-first-developer-kit, and thought I'd do a quick check to see if I'm getting fleeced. Goddamn. You should see if you can buy a used tank off one of the dorkroom dudes who went to that Dollar a Pound sale in San Fransisco, that tank price sucks but the chemistry and other stuff looks okay. Also keep an eye out on Aussie craigslist or something like it? It looks like the photo/video section there is pretty dead but something might turn up. I'm surprised that Australia's used boards have like one entry per month when Maine's (US, one of the least populated states) got a dozen or two a week. Dr. Cogwerks fucked around with this message at 23:34 on May 19, 2011 |
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May 19, 2011 23:28
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Dr. Cogwerks posted:Goddamn. You should see if you can buy a used tank off one of the dorkroom dudes who went to that Dollar a Pound sale in San Fransisco, that tank price sucks but the chemistry and other stuff looks okay.
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May 19, 2011 23:46
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TheLastManStanding posted:He'd get the tanks for pennies, but a medium sized international flat rate box to Australia is $45. I guess if he got four in one shipment it would be worth it, but how often are you developing 12 rolls at once. Those medium Flat Rate boxes to Australia become a lot more worth the expense when you start stuffing them with loose rolls of Arista Premium 400 and Legacy Pro 100  edit: For measuring I have a 1L measuring cup with 50mL increments. I use HC-110, and measure it out with a 10mL syringe that a nurse of my acquaintance gave me last year. You can pick something similar up on eBay for cheap, I think one of the more common non-medical applications is feeding small birds and mammals. Most of us just use tap water for stop, I've never bothered with anything else. I used one of those 2x35mm (or 1x120 tanks) for the longest time, but recently bought one of the 2x120 tanks and it's great. You can normally pick that stuff up for cheap on the local equivalent of Craigslist, but if you're in a small town in Australia that might not be an option. I'd recommend going with the bigger one if you can; in addition to being able to do more 35mm/120 at once, you can also drop a Mod Reel in there if you ever move up to 4x5 (lol @ my Flickr being the #1 hit on Google for "mod reel" now). I now want to buy one twice the size so I can do two Mod Reels (or a shitton of 120/35mm) at once. Pompous Rhombus fucked around with this message at 01:38 on May 20, 2011 |
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May 20, 2011 00:18
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Captain Postal posted:Questions remaining are many and varied, and help is appreciated - Can you live with only one 120 at a time? That's a question only you can answer, I think. It takes me about 45 minutes to go from loading a reel to hanging the film to dry, in either 135 or 120 format, and I've only done this about 4 times - most of the time is set by the developer / fixer schedule. Is that fast enough for you? - A larger tank can happily be used to develop only 1 roll, with the same volume of chemicals as a smaller tank - the diameter is the same (assuming we're talking about the same reels, here), just the height is different. My tank takes 2 rolls of 135, but has the volumes required for 1 roll of 135, 1 roll or 120, and 1 roll of 127 on the bottom. There's a clip to hold a single reel in place on the central tube inside the tank, so it doesn't float above a less-than-full liquid level. - I've been getting away with pretty rough precision, my kit came with a 1x50mL and a 1x500mL, but they're cheap extruded plastic and I wouldn't want to test them against the borosilicate glass stuff I work with at my day job. They're fine, I think being off by plus or minus 5mL isn't going to be a big deal, as long as you're confident the reel is completely submerged. - I don't use multiple bits of hardware - everything gets measured in the same cylinders, but stored / mixed in separate bottles. Can't help you with the rest, but I'm seconding the recommendation to keep your eyes on Gumtree for somebody unloading their stuff - lots of people who used to develop their own film at home have decided to not bother any more. How expensive is shipping within Australia?
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May 20, 2011 01:26
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McMadCow posted:^^^ 2 mins in Permawash followed by 5 minutes of continuous running water wash. I wish they had this kind of thing in NY/NJ. I would gladly compensate you (or any other SF goon) for cost, shipping &  (or more) profit if you would be so kind as to grab some stuff for me. I could use an SS tank with 35mm reels (2 or 5 reels, whichever), assorted graduated cylinders, plus whatever additional B&W film you could stuff in the box.I know I would be deeply grateful for such a deal, I'm sure other folks would love to get in on it as well. red19fire fucked around with this message at 05:19 on May 20, 2011 |
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May 20, 2011 04:42
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thanks for all the tips. I begged, begged someone to get a tank for me from that sale, but no-one offered to help out, even for a small fee. (whatever happened to Goon Camaraderie?). Shipping from the US is about $45, and for some reason when I add film the price goes up to $60+. That may be due to customs not liking film shipped with other items that can be x-rayed, but I'm guessing. Also I have 20 rolls of film in the freezer and don't want to spend more than I have to just now (but I'll check b&h again - maybe 10 more won't hurt). There are precisely 3 adds on gumtree in NSW (pop 5million), 1 guy will only sell his tank as a kit with an enlarger (I asked if he would split, he says he would prefer not to. Can't blame him), the second is selling an old cruddy Bakelite one in god knows what condition and the add is a month old, the third is the same dude as the second one selling a camera, saying he is also selling an old cruddy Bakelite one in another listing... The cupboard is absolutely bare in Aus. Worst case I'll use tap water for stop and spend the savings on a 2x120 tank.
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May 20, 2011 05:19
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I would help someone, but I live 25 miles away and have no car. I had to carry my stuff with the tank, reels, and Mavica crammed into my laptop bag, with my jacket pockets stuffed full of cameras.
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May 20, 2011 05:25
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Captain Postal posted:
That's not a worst case, tap water is just fine for stop bath. Stop bath is usually just acetic acid with an exhaustion indicator dye and a vanilla scent to it, so if you're concerned about tap water not working, add a dash of vinegar to it.
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May 20, 2011 07:10
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Dr. Cogwerks posted:That's not a worst case, tap water is just fine for stop bath. Stop bath is usually just acetic acid with an exhaustion indicator dye and a vanilla scent to it, so if you're concerned about tap water not working, add a dash of vinegar to it. My professor taught us that its preferable to use water to stop film for two reasons: -No risk of streaking like with acid stop -Doesn't actually stop development 100% so for the minute or so it sits in there, the water actually creates a slight compensating development situation where the diluted developer instantly exhausts off the highlights but continues to process the thin areas ever so slightly.
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May 20, 2011 07:28
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McMadCow posted:
Quoted for truth. Just don't agitate it or it washes the developer off the shadow areas.
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May 20, 2011 08:57
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atomicthumbs posted:I would help someone, but I live 25 miles away and have no car. I had to carry my stuff with the tank, reels, and Mavica crammed into my laptop bag, with my jacket pockets stuffed full of cameras. Hear that? Worlds smallest violin. It plays for you. I want a developing tank damnit  I seriously don't get how these things cost $50+ here in Aus and $20 in the US. And my mind boggles at the fact that with a population of 22 Million, we're still to small for Kodak to bother distributing chemistry. I'm sizing up importing from b&h now, and I'll make the call on where to source later tonight (my time), and try to get the order in before they open. edit: OK, I'll ditch the stop bath. Do I need a wetting agent? Captain Postal fucked around with this message at 09:32 on May 20, 2011 |
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May 20, 2011 09:27
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Captain Postal posted:edit: OK, I'll ditch the stop bath. Do I need a wetting agent? Yeah, you really should use it. Water spots are a pain in the rear end to get rid of.
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May 20, 2011 09:57
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 06:19 |
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final shopping list is: Paterson 3 roll tank b&h $31.95 2x paterson reels b&h $15.98 2x HC-110 2gal b&h $27.90 5x cheapest 35mm b/w film to mess around with on MF b&h $10 shipping $61.20 Hypam fixer 1Lt (local) $18.70 Fotoflo 500ml (local) $5.80 Thermometer, 50ml syringe, 1Lt measuring cup (chemist own the road) $spare change Fixer from b&h costs $6 instead of $18.70, but adds $30 to shipping. I could add some ilford 3200 but I've got 15 rolls of T-max 400 in the freezer to learn on first and they add a lot to the bottom line (although no extra shipping) Sound good? Captain Postal fucked around with this message at 10:53 on May 20, 2011 |
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May 20, 2011 10:50
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