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You might get lucky with a junkyard score too. I walked out with an Audi 5000 hood for about $20, but that was when scrap value was a lot lower than it is today.
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May 12, 2011 02:32
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Seat Safety Switch posted:That looks right to me. If you look at where the MAP sensor came out of it should make some more sense. Alldata is specifically pointing this to the barometric sensor and not anything in the manifold, so I don't think this would be it. I tested the leads today and it is getting 5V. We cleaned it off and are going to let it run this week and see if it reappears Sunday. If no luck then we are going to go get a new one, the junkyards are all picked clean. Also need to try and fix P0116, Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. The car was hot when I got there and the coolant reservoir was overflowing. The upper radiator hose was very hot and swollen. After sitting for a minute it drained back in the radiator but when I turned it on it began to fill again. Thermostat stuck closed causing it to fill up and overheat?
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May 12, 2011 03:22
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Been stripping the 1970 164. My daughter left the charger to the camera at her last trip but I was able to take a bunch of pics I will post soon. I have all the interior out now. Working on stripping the seats to take to the upholsterer. Any ideas on what it will take to cover in leather (as original) or vinyl? (the current driver's seat and passenger seat was covered at some point in vinyl.) I am trying to work a budget. I found a company that sells cut and sewn carpet for the 164 for $410, which is high but I will probably do that than spend $150 on carpet and try to do it myself. The A/C is marked Fridgidking, Dallas Texas. As near as I can tell that company (Fridgidkar) did after-market units. I am afraid of the evaporator and other parts. The system is very rudimentary and does not appear to have been converted over at any time. Would you guys just buy a Vintage Air unit and adapt it or try and go with the original? Do any of you know if A/C was a "dealer installed" option or actually available from Volvo? The car has a Blaupunkt New Yorker radio with shortwave. Apparently Porsche guys pay a poo poo ton for these, working or not, and I even have the literature with plastic cover for it. Would you guys sell and buy something else? It looks like rear end and I am sure sounds worse. My son also found an unused metal 100,000 mile badge in NOS shape.
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May 12, 2011 03:23
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EvellSnoats posted:The car has a Blaupunkt New Yorker radio with shortwave. Apparently Porsche guys pay a poo poo ton for these, working or not, and I even have the literature with plastic cover for it. Would you guys sell and buy something else? It looks like rear end and I am sure sounds worse. My son also found an unused metal 100,000 mile badge in NOS shape. If you're on a budget and need the money for other things that actually make the car better, sell that poo poo. There's no historical authenticity or anything related to Volvo that should be driving you to keep it. I have no knowledge to help on the a/c.
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May 12, 2011 07:06
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TheJeffers posted:First post: http://www.volvocars.com/us/top/community/pages/yourvolvo.aspx Thanks, volvo uk website only went back to '04, I never thought to look on a different countries website. Also, the manual is missing from my car & ebay wants £15. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 12:57 on May 12, 2011 |
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May 12, 2011 12:50
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Thought you guys might like some of this sweet, sweet, Volvo Porn....  I've seen plenty of 100 & 400 series Volvo's in my days, but never a 500 I don't think. It looked awesome. Makes me want to get back into the brick game.
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May 17, 2011 03:26
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empty baggie posted:I guess what i'm asking is, what should I expect to pay for a 240 hood. I kinda already know the answer to this, but is it possible to convert an '89 to a flatnose? Short answer: Sorta. If you have the right grille, then it'll look OK, but the cowl won't line up with the depression in the hood. To make it look "right," you need to swap the whole front clip, but that means that you give up the superior lighting of the 86+ front end, unless you get e-codes. I would say $50-$75 is a fair price for a hood.
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May 17, 2011 04:46
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zundfolge posted:Short answer: Sorta. If you have the right grille, then it'll look OK, but the cowl won't line up with the depression in the hood. To make it look "right," you need to swap the whole front clip, but that means that you give up the superior lighting of the 86+ front end, unless you get e-codes. I have e-codes, so that's not a problem. I found a 2004 (actually says 2004.5) S40 T5 with 39,000. They're asking $13,985. Is there anything that should be of concern about that particular year? I've been looking for S60's but this one seems too good to be true. Edit for link: http://tinyurl.com/5vrg3jy empty baggie fucked around with this message at 17:41 on May 17, 2011 |
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May 17, 2011 17:36
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http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/2383618142.html 1989 VOLVO 740 GL GOOD SHAPE NO RUST RUNS AND DRIVE GOOD. THIS HAS BEEN DRIVEN FOR PAST SEVERAL YEARS BY MY MOTHER WHO IS 72 YRS OLD. WELL TAKEN CARE OF . MILEAGE IS AROUND 150K CAR DOES NEED NEW BRAKE PADS INSTALLED I HAVE SOME OF THEM THAT GO WITH CAR. I HAVE PURCHASED HER A NEWER CAR AND NO LONGER HAS THE NEED FOR THIS ONE. CAR GETS GOOD GAS MILEAGE AND DRIVES WELL. IT HAS MANY MILES LEFT IN IT AND WILL MAKE SOMEONE A GREAT LITTLE CAR. CAR HAS BLACK LEATHER INTERIOR AND A SUNROOF. Gonna check that car out in a little bit. Anything I should look for specifically? I have never dealt with anything other than GMs so I don't know wtf. astrollinthepork fucked around with this message at 20:21 on May 17, 2011 |
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May 17, 2011 20:18
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astrollinthepork posted:http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/2383618142.html I saw that ad yesterday... if I had free time, I would have checked it out. Let us know if you get it.
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May 17, 2011 20:21
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EVERYWHERE 
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astrollinthepork posted:http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/2383618142.html Make sure that the claim of "no rust" is accurate. Check the underbody, A-pillars, spare tire well, floorboards, and the point where the firewall, inner fender, and wheel well meet under the hood. When 740s rust, it tends to be ugly. Otherwise, it's an NA B230, which means that it's largely indestructible. Brakes and such are easy work. The one other point I would check is the type of fuel injection system it has - if the coil is boxy and is mounted on the driver's side strut tower, it has the Rex/Regina FI system, which is considered inferior to LH-Jetronic. If the coil is cylindrical and mounted up near the firewall on the passenger side, you're looking at Bosch. Beyond that, all of the usual used car stuff applies. Good luck.
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May 17, 2011 21:33
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I had nothing but good luck with the regina system on my last 940, my ex got the car in the divorce and took it to 250k with nothing but the most basic of maintenance. Deteriorating paint, brakes, and a massive oil leak did the car in, but it started and ran all the way to the crusher. i.e. I like Bosch better too, but don't let a regina ignition scare you off of a car.
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May 18, 2011 05:13
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Thanks for the info, it all seemed to check out. The body and interior looked relatively good and I instantly fell in love wih the thing. I saw the odometer, which read 183k, a far cry from 150k. The guy was late about showing up so I went over it pretty closely. I was jonesing pretty hard for it. He finally rolls up in a riced out camaro and poo poo went downhill. We pop the hood and it looked obvious the car sat around for a while until recently, otherwise the engine and bay looked pretty good aside from some messy silicone under the valve cover. He turns the key.... and it just cranked. While he was doing this gas was spraying out from the rear pipe on the exhaust manifold with every stroke. Okay, I can fix that I think. The deal is not dead yet. He keeps cranking it and engine just doesn't want to play along, it finally does after laying on the starter for quite a while. "Oh it's wet so it might have some trouble. It was running an hour ago." It doesn't want to start because it's wet outside? Really? You lying gently caress, I was here and hour ago. Then the dumb rear end starts reving the piss out of it. Again and again. I was under the hood cringing each time. I'm still thinking about getting it after I ask him to turn it off and start it up again, which it does without much hesitation. If the test drive checks out, I'll get it. "Oh I don't have insurance on it so I'll have to drive". Welp, see you later. It was so loving tough walking away from that car. I'm still thinking about offering $600 and seeing what happens. What the hell could cause a car to not start unless you crank it for a minute or so?
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May 18, 2011 12:14
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astrollinthepork posted:Thanks for the info, it all seemed to check out. The body and interior looked relatively good and I instantly fell in love wih the thing. I saw the odometer, which read 183k, a far cry from 150k. The guy was late about showing up so I went over it pretty closely. I was jonesing pretty hard for it. He finally rolls up in a riced out camaro and poo poo went downhill. We pop the hood and it looked obvious the car sat around for a while until recently, otherwise the engine and bay looked pretty good aside from some messy silicone under the valve cover. Bad gas? Sitting for a good length of time?
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May 18, 2011 14:10
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astrollinthepork posted:May or may not be the case, but all I can picture is a stereotypical guido driving his bitchin camero yelling about his mother's old car while you're talking to him.
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May 18, 2011 15:26
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astrollinthepork posted:Thanks for the info, it all seemed to check out. The body and interior looked relatively good and I instantly fell in love wih the thing. I saw the odometer, which read 183k, a far cry from 150k. The guy was late about showing up so I went over it pretty closely. I was jonesing pretty hard for it. He finally rolls up in a riced out camaro and poo poo went downhill. We pop the hood and it looked obvious the car sat around for a while until recently, otherwise the engine and bay looked pretty good aside from some messy silicone under the valve cover. A crack in the coil's ceramic nipple (where the wire attaches that leads to the distributor cap) can allow moisture in and cause hard starts like that, also a lovely old rotor/plug wires would also corroborate the guy's claims it starts with difficulty only in the damp/wet. Relatively simple fixes for both, but I've had those issues on a couple 240's from the general same time period as this car. The cranking it over and over probably won't hurt this bulletproof engine, but it is kind of indicative of the kind of abuse this guy's put it through... Revving it without oil in it obviously isn't that great a plan. :/ Tell him you want to knock a couple hundred off to replace the distrib/rotor/wires. He wants this car gone more than he wants the extra $200 (hopefully)
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May 18, 2011 19:29
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Ether Frenzy posted:A crack in the coil's ceramic nipple (where the wire attaches that leads to the distributor cap) can allow moisture in and cause hard starts like that, also a lovely old rotor/plug wires would also corroborate the guy's claims it starts with difficulty only in the damp/wet. Relatively simple fixes for both, but I've had those issues on a couple 240's from the general same time period as this car. Those aren't bad fixes at all. You'e got me thinking about it again so I offered 7. He's willing to do 8. What should I do? Go for it? Run?
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May 18, 2011 22:59
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astrollinthepork posted:While he was doing this gas was spraying out from the rear pipe on the exhaust manifold with every stroke. Do you mean the exhaust manifold is cracked open at the block, or not connected to the rest of the exhaust lines? If it's cracked that bad, a new manifold will run you about $75-ish. If you need them, plugs, wires, a new rotor and a new distributor cap will be between $60 and $100 depending on where you go. Offer him the $600, and maybe go to 7 at the most. The paint and interior alone look worth that. You're going to go over the engine for all the wear items when you get it anyway, right? Unless it made crazy monster sounds while it was running, whatever the problem is will be solvable. Post pics and good descriptions and we can help a lot. 183k is nothing. I might tow it home, though. Comedy option: if you can drive it to my house, you can stay on the couch while we get it to run like a motherfucker, that's the same year I have. I'm job-hunting just out of school, so I have the time.  e: Hmm, 8? Meet him halfway. Also, do this: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=1236209&postcount=9 Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 23:08 on May 18, 2011 |
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May 18, 2011 23:02
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astrollinthepork posted:Those aren't bad fixes at all. You'e got me thinking about it again so I offered 7. He's willing to do 8. What should I do? Go for it? Run? If it's in the condition you indicated, then $700-800 is pretty reasonable unless you absolutely need to go lower. Figure you're going to put another $1k into it as a safety measure. If you need any help getting it going again, let me know. Splizwarf posted:Do you mean the exhaust manifold is cracked open at the block, or not connected to the rest of the exhaust lines? If it's cracked that bad, a new manifold will run you about $75-ish. It sounds like a bad exhaust manifold gasket to me. TheJeffers fucked around with this message at 23:31 on May 18, 2011 |
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May 18, 2011 23:27
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TheJeffers posted:It sounds like a bad exhaust manifold gasket to me. That's exactly what it is. I should've made it clearer. TheJeffers posted:If it's in the condition you indicated, then $700-800 is pretty reasonable unless you absolutely need to go lower. Figure you're going to put another $1k into it as a safety measure. Splizwarf posted:Offer him the $600, and maybe go to 7 at the most. The paint and interior alone look worth that. You're going to go over the engine for all the wear items when you get it anyway, right? Unless it made crazy monster sounds while it was running, whatever the problem is will be solvable. Post pics and good descriptions and we can help a lot. 183k is nothing. It was pretty drat loud, and it looked like the alternator belt was about to go but that's about it. No knocking. Splizwarf posted:I might tow it home, though. Comedy option: if you can drive it to my house, you can stay on the couch while we get it to run like a motherfucker, that's the same year I have. I'm job-hunting just out of school, so I have the time. I don't really know how I'm getting it back yet. The dude clumsily described what sounds like a sticking caliper so I don't know about the driveability. I'm kind of wary about test driving it. I might throw some plates on it and hope for the best. You're in PA right? I might take up that offer. The Fiero snapped a ball joint and I just don't care about it anymore so here I am looking at cheap Volvos. Splizwarf posted:
Oh, I should probably mention I need a DD, not a project. My other project is slowly sinking into the yard and I'm not really up for another. Simple poo poo like a tune up, exhaust gasket replacement, and coil replacement is no big deal though. astrollinthepork fucked around with this message at 23:49 on May 18, 2011 |
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May 18, 2011 23:42
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http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html In other words, put in e-code replaceable-bulb Hella projectors that look stock. The '89 740 was the last year to have quad sealed-beam rectangles before the US Volvos got huge foggy block lamps.
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May 18, 2011 23:48
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astrollinthepork posted:What would that $1k buy? The last cheap Volvo I bought was a 1992 940 Turbo, for $1600. It immediately needed tires, new fluids throughout, and A/C work, plus a bunch of other niggling stuff that I don't remember. The grand total was about $1200 of parts and labor. It's not necessarily going to need $1k of work, it's just a safety margin to keep in mind in case something does come up.
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May 18, 2011 23:54
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TheJeffers posted:The last cheap Volvo I bought was a 1992 940 Turbo, for $1600. It immediately needed tires, new fluids throughout, and A/C work, plus a bunch of other niggling stuff that I don't remember. The grand total was about $1200 of parts and labor. It's not necessarily going to need $1k of work, it's just a safety margin to keep in mind in case something does come up. Oh yeah, of course. I always budget a little for a trip to the parts store. When I buy a vehicle I essentially reset the maintenance schedule. I was thinking maybe there's some known cost going into these cars. Are these interference engines? astrollinthepork fucked around with this message at 00:03 on May 19, 2011 |
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May 18, 2011 23:59
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The only thing you MUST replace on an NA B230 is the flame trap (and housing and hose, if you're getting fancy), but that's only $10 worth of stuff. It's not a bad idea to do the timing belt, either.
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May 19, 2011 00:02
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astrollinthepork posted:Oh yeah, of course. I always budget a little for a trip to the parts store. When I buy a vehicle I essentially reset the maintenance schedule. I was thinking maybe there's some known cost going into these cars. Not interference, no. HD Bilstein dampers all the way around, IPD anti-sway bar in the back, full poly bushings in the front & replace your tie rods - ~$1000 and you will have a much much better driving feel.
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May 19, 2011 00:06
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In the first couple months, I had to get a new timing belt becaue I needed a new front crank seal (paid for this work because I didn't know how at the time), and I blew my diff a month after I bought the car (replaced the whole rear end with Casnorf); total for all that was about $500. I think I replaced maybe 2 tires too. What I'd check immediately: tires (check the spare, and if it's flat, keep checking it every couple days for a month to see if it stays full) brakes (hoses, hardlines, pads, rotors) coolant hoses vacuum lines intake, exhaust, and throttle body gaskets fuel lines (hardlines and hoses) PCV orifice and hoses intake hose (if it's rubber, squeeze it, it shouldn't be soggy; either way look inside and see if there's oil from the PCV) hot air tap thermoswitch fuel cap gasket exhaust for leakage (white traces on the manifold indicate cracks) catalytic converter function if you need to pass emissions ignition (distributor cap, rotor, ignition coil) thermostat water pump blower motor heater core A/C inner and outer tie rods wheel bearings shocks and struts (bounce the car at each corner and if it takes more than two occillations to stop moving, the shock on that corner is probably wrecked; usually they're good for 60 to 80,000 miles but POs will never ever ever replace them, springs are lifetime but I replaced mine with IPD's heavy duty springs at 300,000 miles and am pleased) cooling fan clutch all the bushings everywhere oil breather box if there's oil leaks around the block valve clearance (since you said it could use a new valve cover gasket anyway; also, replace the hushers while you're in there and the valve train will run nice and silent) The only way it'd be an interference engine is if the PO replaced the camshaft with the VX Sport Performance shaft, or if it was a 16-valve B234 (it'd say on the valve cover, and have 2 cam gears. While you have the valve cover off, check just in case a PO put a VX in. What I'd just replace without debating it: belts (including the timing belt ($11), but not the tensioner ($50) unless it felt/sounded lovely; because it's a non-interference engine you don't have to worry about loving this up) fluids: oil, coolant, brake, rear axle (take the fill plug out first  ), transmission (just a pan-plug drain and fill, about 1/3 to 1/2 of the total fluid, not a complete flush)spark wires and plugs fuel filter oil filter air filter vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold The oil breather and PCV orifice (ie flametrap) don't necessarily need to be replaced, but they definately need to be clean(ed). You can certainly throw $1000 at upgrades but if it was me I'd try to reserve a signifigant chunk ($500+)for the first year's worth of shakedown bullshit that the PO won't tell you about. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 01:00 on May 19, 2011 |
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May 19, 2011 00:50
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I owned a N/A 240 sedan previously, and drove it till the trans eventually went out. I'm currently looking at other bricks to fill the void the 240 has left (it's true, they're addictive) and I've found a nice looking black 1988 740 turbo for sale in my area for $1000 (AUD), the following is from the ad "A good car with some good and bad points: Good points: - New aftermarket turbo (fitted 6 months ago). - Reco engine (fitted 8 months ago). - Boost guage. - Boost controller. - Turbosmart BOV. - Pioneer H/U. - Automatic. - Tow ball. - Good battery. - Electric windows & central locking. - Legendary Volvo Safety. Bad points: - Needs new brake booster (Existing one hisses from a leak). Brakes still have great pressure but requires a lot of pressure on the pedal to work. You can get one of these for about $90 brand new. - Power steering leaks. - Brake lights don't work. - No rego or RWC." How bad are the turbo B23's on fuel compared to the N/A's? Are they still reliable enough to be driven daily? Should I be concerned he's had the engine/turbo redone less than a year ago and is selling it now? What are the major differences between the 700 series and 200 series. Here's the whole ad http://brisbane.gumtree.com.au/c-Ca...QAdIdZ279571224
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May 19, 2011 01:27
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I appreciate all the help guys. I've been wanting to join this thread for years  I'm more than likely buying the car today. I have another issue though, turns out "needs brake pads" means "makes horrible noise when braking". It's kind of a rumbiling coming from the right side. The dude said he thought it was the parking brake, which I'm inclined to believe since the lever is completely free. If not, I guess it's a sticky caliper. I don't really know how these floating systems work so I don't really know what to look for.
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May 19, 2011 10:38
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The wife now likes my V70 so we may be able to ditch the Peugeot estate pretty soon, We can handle going down to a 2nd smaller car so I was thinking either 480 or circa-2000 C70, anyone got any opinions on the 480?
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May 19, 2011 11:29
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anyone in the new england area (north shore mass tbe) wanna buy my black 96 855r w under 110k, im movin across the atlantic in august and it probably doesnt make sense to keep it in storage  im gonna snap some fresh pics and get a nice lil write up of all the pros and cons, not quite sure what its worth but ive got 3 months or so to sell it so hopefully ill be able to figure everything out never sold a car before im scared yall, hold me tight
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May 19, 2011 16:14
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astrollinthepork posted:I appreciate all the help guys. I've been wanting to join this thread for years Sounds kind of like he's got a grooved rotor on the right, or he's down to the pad backing. Pics will help a lot with this. Worst case scenario, a new loaded caliper (ie pads included) will run you about $50-$65, and the rotor is around $25. Cakefool posted:The wife now likes my V70 so we may be able to ditch the Peugeot estate pretty soon, We can handle going down to a 2nd smaller car so I was thinking either 480 or circa-2000 C70, anyone got any opinions on the 480? 400-series advice will probably be from Euro-goons only, the 300 and 400 models never made it to the US. IIRC, they're the ones built in the Netherlands, and began as DAF cars? On a similar mixed-lineage note, if you're looking in the circa-2000 era for a smaller Volvo, consider a v40/s40; in Europe they came with a couple different engines, but the US only got the 1.9 liter 4-cyl turbo gas engine (so I recommend that one ). Ours makes fast like a motherfucker, and pulls real hard immediately off a stop. Anytime I'm driving it I look like or  .It looks like the other options in Europe were a couple of non-turbos with smaller displacements, a GDI (getting 41 mpg apparently) and two turbodiesels. as halfway crooks posted:never sold a car before im scared yall, hold me tight  Just remember you can always say "No, sorry" or "Get off my lawn, you lowballin' shitbag".
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May 19, 2011 18:50
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Splizwarf posted:400-series advice will probably be from Euro-goons only, the 300 and 400 models never made it to the US. IIRC, they're the ones built in the Netherlands, and began as DAF cars? On a similar mixed-lineage note, if you're looking in the circa-2000 era for a smaller Volvo, consider a v40/s40; in Europe they came with a couple different engines, but the US only got the 1.9 liter 4-cyl turbo gas engine (so I recommend that one  480 was totally separate from the rest of the 400 series, a funky little 4-bucket-seat coupe with either a 1.7, 1.7T or 2.0l engine. I'm not hot on the S40, I have no need for the practicality :iamafag: hence I was thinking the coupes. Looks like I can get a 2.3T C70 coupe for under 2k over here, I really like the look of the hard top version.
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May 20, 2011 19:33
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Well poo poo, I was going to argue but you'd have popups and 4 buckets. Carry on. Christ, with the 1.7T I bet that tiny thing hauls some serious whistle-y rear end.
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May 20, 2011 19:40
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If you can find one that hasn't leaked in through the rear hatch & rusted out all the electrics they look like a fun little toy.
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May 20, 2011 20:41
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as halfway crooks posted:anyone in the new england area (north shore mass tbe) wanna buy my black 96 855r w under 110k  Can't afford a third car, but being so close to you (Seacoast NH), I wish i could. Hope you find a worthy owner! I think i'm not alone in wanting to see some pics of it though!
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May 20, 2011 21:25
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as halfway crooks posted:anyone in the new england area (north shore mass tbe) wanna buy my black 96 855r w under 110k, im movin across the atlantic in august and it probably doesnt make sense to keep it in storage I don't think such a thing exists but is it a manual?
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May 21, 2011 01:08
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All right. I know I've come to this thread with Volvo buying advice, but I think I've finally got the one I'm going to actually follow through on. It's a 1998 Volvo V70T AWD with 145K on the clock. The seller sent me pictures and it looks very good cosmetically. Even though it's an older lady, she must give a poo poo about maintenance since she alleges the oil pump and catalytic converter were replaced on it. Apparently, the only thing wrong with it is that the blinkers don't blink and there's a CEL lit up. I'm assuming/hoping the CEL is something to do with emissions or possibly harmless like a vacuum leak, etc. I talked her down to $2,750. KBB says private party is good for about $4-4.6K. I've done some preliminary searching online and it sounds like the big stuff to watch out for are electrics, changed timing belt, making sure the viscous coupling isn't crapped out and things of that nature. Otherwise, it's got the fairly bulletproof drivetrain from the 850, even though it's the first generation of the model. Does this deal actually sound as decent as I hope it does?
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May 21, 2011 04:30
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May 21, 2011 06:17
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So I got the 740 sitting out in my driveway. poo poo that needs replaced/fixed/ripped off:
.... I think that's about it. So I picked up the car this morning. The drive back seemed abnormally slow,and of course the brakes were poo poo, but other than that it was uneventful. I picked up an almost complete ignition minus the rotor due to the parts girl not ordering it with the rest of my stuff. So all I got to do today was replace the coil. The 30 second starts seemed to go away. The thing fired up instantly. Later on in the evening it went back to taking forever to start along with dying after a few strokes around 1/2 of the time. I also made a shot at trying to fix the sunroof as one side doesn't appear to retract. I dismantled the entire thing only to find the gear wasn't really catching on one of those... spring looking things. It won't be able to be repaired it seems. Another issue I've discovered is that the fuel pump runs as long as the key is turned instead of priming for a few seconds. It sounds pretty weak and uhhh uneven. I attempted to pull the fuse for it only to discover a piece of tape that read "Fuel pump fuse on left side of console behind carpet". I couldn't find it. While looking for the fuel pump itself I found that the foam in the backseat is soaked with water. I have no idea where it is coming from. I can't really thing of anything new I've found. I do believe the A/C compressor is going to need replaced. The pulley spins freely whether the A/C is on or not. Is this something I can do myself? What's involved? Finally, how do you pull codes in this car? I have a lot more questions but I'm going to need to post some pics first. astrollinthepork fucked around with this message at 07:12 on May 21, 2011 |
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May 21, 2011 07:06
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| # ? May 20, 2024 04:38 |
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as halfway crooks posted:anyone in the new england area (north shore mass tbe) wanna buy my black 96 855r w under 110k, im movin across the atlantic in august and it probably doesnt make sense to keep it in storage Does the 5 mean a wagon? I'd be interested if it were a sedan.
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May 21, 2011 08:45
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