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Pheloz posted:Moved into a new place and when I went to take a shower I bumped into the soap dish and this happened. How should I go about fixing this without to much work because I can probably get maintenance to fix it since it happened on day one but this would take a week or so and I'd rather have it done sooner but depends on what I would have to do and cost. My vote is for polyurethane construction adhesive
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May 13, 2011 22:36
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Pheloz posted:Moved into a new place and when I went to take a shower I bumped into the soap dish and this happened. How should I go about fixing this without to much work because I can probably get maintenance to fix it since it happened on day one but this would take a week or so and I'd rather have it done sooner but depends on what I would have to do and cost. Take it to your local hardware store and they'll hook you up with some tile adhesive.
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May 13, 2011 22:54
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stubblyhead posted:I'd like to build a new crawlspace hatch cover for my house. I think I have enough scrap wood to make it, so I'm hoping to avoid a trip to the store. I'd like to use exterior grade plywood, which I have some of, but I have some interior grade as well. How can I tell them apart? Size for size, treated wood will be heavier than untreated wood.
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May 14, 2011 01:38
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Great time to remind everyone about This to that
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May 14, 2011 22:37
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So... Our suffering for art phase is over and it's now time to do what the previous owners should have done when they decided to add on to the back of the house.. Insulate the roof! So I was looking at different options this weekend and we're gonna go with polystyrene insulation board. Not a big deal in and of itself to add, just 1 question though. You can get a 4'x8'x1" board for $10 or you can get a 4'x8'x2" board for $25. Both are the same construction besides the thickness of the foam. My thoughts are to get 2 1" pieces because not only is it $5 cheaper but each piece also has the "thermal barrier" a.k.a. foil on one side then foam in thickness on the other so that would increase the R value further, right?
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May 16, 2011 16:43
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The foil is to direct radiation. In cooling climates you have the foil facing outwards directing the suns energy away and in heating climates you have the foil facing inwards keeping the heat in. Two foil layers is counterproductive I think
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May 17, 2011 01:23
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Apparently a composting barrel that can be flipped occasionally makes compost happen faster. Any suggestions for what to look for in a good one?
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May 17, 2011 20:02
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rt4 posted:Apparently a composting barrel that can be flipped occasionally makes compost happen faster. Any suggestions for what to look for in a good one? One with a strong enough base to support it's own weight. That goes for the turning mechanism too.
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May 17, 2011 23:09
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I have these shelves that I'm attempting to mount to my wall. The thing is, I'm unsure whether my place has plaster or drywall and whether the studs are wood or metal. The building was built in Canada in the early 70s and the studs are approx. 12" from each other. I'd heard that you can tell the wall material by removing a nearby electrical socket cover and well: http://i.imgur.com/Fuxbp.jpg If they are plaster, will it still be a bad idea to mount the shelves even if they're secured to studs? Also any recommendation for anchors is appreciated 
Der Luftwaffle fucked around with this message at 00:20 on May 18, 2011 |
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May 18, 2011 00:12
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12" studs? Usually they're 16" or 24". Anyway that looks like drywall. Use hollow wall anchors.
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May 18, 2011 00:32
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If it's plaster there will be wood laths behind it.
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May 18, 2011 00:35
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kid sinister posted:12" studs? Usually they're 16" or 24". Anyway that looks like drywall. Use hollow wall anchors. 12 was the average I was getting from the stud detector, I hope that isn't a bad thing. The studs themselves seem to be about 1.5" wide, if that narrows down the material any. I was hesitant on this because I thought drywall was generally more yielding. It might be the repeated coats of paint, but these walls are really hard and the excess material in that electrical socket was really crumbly.
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May 18, 2011 00:48
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That's drywall. It's hard to tell from the photo whether it's been mud & taped, or a skim coat of plaster, but it's rather irrelevant as you'd be treating it the same regardless. Drill into the studs if you can; the shelf will be much sturdier in studs than just anchored to the drywall. If it was built in the 70s, it's most likely wood.
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May 18, 2011 00:54
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I see, thanks a lot guys!
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May 18, 2011 00:55
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I've got one of those Ikea shelves, and the spacing on the mounting holes is really weird. If you can, try drilling new holes in the mounting plate 16" on center so you can get as many screws into the wall studs as possible.
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May 18, 2011 03:58
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rt4 posted:Apparently a composting barrel that can be flipped occasionally makes compost happen faster. Any suggestions for what to look for in a good one? You can make one yourself fairly easily - get 4 castors & bolt them to the ground/a frame, rest a barrel on it.
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May 18, 2011 22:01
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What's the best way to pull a half-dozen steel fence posts? Right now, my best plan is to wait for a heavy rain and jimmy the fuckers out by hand. I live 20 mins from NYC; nobody around here has post pullers that I could borrow, and I'd really rather not buy one.
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May 18, 2011 22:15
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Dig down around them and use a sawzall to cut them off below ground level? That's how I've done it, at least.
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May 18, 2011 23:00
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Do you have a hitch? Tying a heavy chain around a post so that it tightens and bites down on itself, then using some vehicle with a hitch is how I've done it before.
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May 19, 2011 03:25
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Technically, the easiest way is to throw a chain with a small loop over the post, tie it to the bucket of a front end loader and raise the bucket...
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May 19, 2011 04:19
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I don't know what I'm talking about, but could you rig something up with a car jack? I guess it wouldn't travel far enough to get the post completely out of the ground, but it might be enough of a start.
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May 19, 2011 05:34
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Soup in a Bag posted:I don't know what I'm talking about, but could you rig something up with a car jack? I guess it wouldn't travel far enough to get the post completely out of the ground, but it might be enough of a start. I've been using a modified tow cable and my hitch, but it's really not a recommended solution.
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May 19, 2011 12:38
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PFlats posted:What's the best way to pull a half-dozen steel fence posts? Right now, my best plan is to wait for a heavy rain and jimmy the fuckers out by hand. I use a chain and a rim from a car wheel - fasten the chain as close to the ground as you can, lay it over the upright wheel, so that when you pull on the chain (I use a truck) the wheel makes the chain pull 'up'. Make sense?
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May 19, 2011 14:31
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I got some premixed Spackle to patch some holes. The instructions say do not apply when rain is forecast within 24-48 hours. I've actually never seen an instruction like that before. How common is it? For all spackles? Some? Other products? There's no rain forecasted ahead, but there was a storm earlier last night, so should I wait another two days, or does what's past not matter? Or does it not matter much at all either way?
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May 20, 2011 09:23
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Elijya posted:I got some premixed Spackle to patch some holes. The instructions say do not apply when rain is forecast within 24-48 hours. I've actually never seen an instruction like that before. How common is it? For all spackles? Some? Other products? There's no rain forecasted ahead, but there was a storm earlier last night, so should I wait another two days, or does what's past not matter? Or does it not matter much at all either way? Did you get interior/exterior spackle? Exterior spackle is sometimes used to patch stucco and yes, rain can screw with it before it dries. It could very well wash away if there's enough rain and it's totally exposed. Indoors, rain can cause a slight increase in humidity and may make the spackle take longer to dry, but that's it. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 01:09 on May 21, 2011 |
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May 21, 2011 01:01
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Help me make my girlfriend's refrigerator not smell like bad broccoli. It's a brand new fridge, and we (I) stored a poorly covered plate with some broccoli in it for a couple of days. We (I) forgot about it, and now the fridge and freezer both reek of old broccoli, despite it being about 2 weeks since we threw it out. We've used baking soda, thoroughly cleaned all the surfaces, sprayed disinfectant, and we're out of ideas. Any thoughts? And why would the freezer smell worse than the fridge itself?
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May 21, 2011 16:01
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Bleach? Febreeze?? Just opening the door for a while???
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May 21, 2011 23:03
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Der Luftwaffle posted:I have these shelves that I'm attempting to mount to my wall. The thing is, I'm unsure whether my place has plaster or drywall and whether the studs are wood or metal. The building was built in Canada in the early 70s and the studs are approx. 12" from each other. I'd heard that you can tell the wall material by removing a nearby electrical socket cover and well: http://i.imgur.com/Fuxbp.jpg Little update, I predrilled holes for the screws and the drywall ended up being really thick, almost 1.5" to hit a stud and at least 2" otherwise. Hollow wall anchors seemed like a bad idea since the expanding metal bits would still be inside the wall and require giant holes so I just used regular plastic anchors. Mounted the shelf, put a whole bunch of books on it and it isn't sagging. Should I be worried about future collapse for not using the right hardware or am I safe given the thickness of the wall?
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May 22, 2011 01:49
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you ate my cat posted:Help me make my girlfriend's refrigerator not smell like bad broccoli. It's a brand new fridge, and we (I) stored a poorly covered plate with some broccoli in it for a couple of days. We (I) forgot about it, and now the fridge and freezer both reek of old broccoli, despite it being about 2 weeks since we threw it out. The freezer always smells the worst and I don't know why. You have to clean and sanitize literally every accessible surface if you want that stank to go away. That means dish soap with hot water and diluted bleach to sanitize. Follow the instructions on the bleach bottle to dilute. My freezer has a cold air vent in the front that can be unscrewed and removed for cleaning. Don't forget places like that. Don't forget to wipe it down again after using the bleach. Get that poo poo out of there! You have to get rid of the smell before you put everything back in, or all those things are just going to hold onto the stench and it won't matter how well you cleaned the drat thing. Are you doing that silly little box of baking soda on the door or something? Did you try a bowl of baking soda in the fridge and the freezer after cleaning? If you went at it with legitimate cleaning products and literally cleaned the whole thing, you might need an old priest and a young priest at this point. BonerGhost fucked around with this message at 02:16 on May 22, 2011 |
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May 22, 2011 02:13
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I've only done this once and I don't recall exactly how well it worked, but if you empty the freezer, defrost, and leave a shallow dish of ammonia in there to evaporate completely, it should be deodorized.
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May 22, 2011 02:56
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Two quickies: 1) Today I was trying to thread a 1/4" steel rod and I couldn't get it to start to save my life. I got one end of it okay, but the other I tried on for about an hour with no luck. Tried multiple chamfers / end shapes. Any tips? Is there a certain way I should chamfer / shape the end of the rod? Could it be my die is done for? (It was a cheap one). 2) I built a model of a geneva mechanism and I want to hook it up to a small motor, just for fun. Photo below... the hand crank / rubber band weren't working so well. Can someone point me in the right direction as to what to get? Since it's essentially a toy, it doesn't need to have any substantial power, just something that I hook to a 9V battery. Ideally I wouldn't have to spend more than $20 on a motor. Ideas for where I could find some cheap pulleys to hook up to that are welcome too. Cheers,
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May 22, 2011 03:52
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NoSoup4U posted:Two quickies: It's probably your die. Just like buttsex, use plenty of lube and really press down.
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May 22, 2011 04:04
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NoSoup4U posted:Two quickies: For all that trouble, it seems like it would have been easier to just buy some threaded rod or even 1/4" screws/bolts and cut to length. Amazon has a disco ball motor for  (edit - oops, just noticed the $7 shipping) that rotates at 4rpm and runs off of a single D cell battery. Not sure if it has enough torque though.For the pulleys, my first thought would be to find a broken vacuum cleaner and see if the belts and pulleys that drive the brushes would work.
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May 22, 2011 12:01
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NancyPants posted:The freezer always smells the worst and I don't know why. Well, guess I know what I'm doing today or tomorrow. Fortunately, she just moved into the place so there's not much we have to worry about while the freezer defrosts. Thanks!
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May 22, 2011 18:03
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you ate my cat posted:Well, guess I know what I'm doing today or tomorrow. Fortunately, she just moved into the place so there's not much we have to worry about while the freezer defrosts. Thanks! Just so you don't unintentionally kill yourself, I'm assuming you know to wash with soap and then rinse very thoroughly before using diluted bleach to sanitize.
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May 22, 2011 19:05
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Does anyone know of any worthwhile landscaping programs? Preferably free. I've basically got a square back yard, and I've got a single sugar maple and I just got the grass/weeds under control so now I want to start planting colorful stinky poo poo everywhere. I've spent around 5 hours googling and coming up with nothing but poo poo. At the very least, I'd like to draw the dimensions, plop down sized items like "tree" and "bush" where I can edit details on what they actually are and resize them. Basically something a step beyond using MS Paint. Don't care at all for 3D, I just want top down 2D. Graph paper colored pencils is my current "software". Philthy fucked around with this message at 02:18 on May 23, 2011 |
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May 23, 2011 02:15
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after a pretty ridiculous windstorm, I noticed that a couple of shingles on our roof have pulled up a bit. Is just climbing my big rear end up there and nailing them down all I need to do? That seems way too easy... Or could I screw them in so that they are more likely to stay down?
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May 23, 2011 04:04
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Philthy posted:Does anyone know of any worthwhile landscaping programs? Preferably free. I've basically got a square back yard, and I've got a single sugar maple and I just got the grass/weeds under control so now I want to start planting colorful stinky poo poo everywhere. I've spent around 5 hours googling and coming up with nothing but poo poo. Check out this thread http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3393612 I'm not going to go looking for it, but I'm pretty sure someone in there was using some square foot gardening deal that you could probably use or easily adapt for your uses.
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May 23, 2011 05:31
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Black Jasper posted:I'm in the process of excavating my backyard to build a patio. Today I found what seems to be some sort of large old drainage system (house was built in the 1950's). I know this is a couple weeks old, but it's probably a cistern.
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May 23, 2011 16:47
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I have a sump pump in my crawlspace that discharges fairly regularly, and as a result there's a spot by my house that's saturated with water to the point where it's basically a pile of mud. The sump pump discharges on the surface into a bed of gravel, but beyond the gravel (about 3-4') is where it gets muddy. It's a high traffic area and I'd like to move the discharge somewhere else. I was thinking about a dry well, but I wanted to know if there are any better alternatives. Can you guys recommend some resources to check out?
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May 23, 2011 17:01
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