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astrollinthepork posted:Finally, how do you pull codes in this car? I have a lot more questions but I'm going to need to post some pics first. Here's a guide: http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm#FuelInjectionandIgnitionDiagnosticCodesi
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May 21, 2011 15:25
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kimbo305 posted:Does the 5 mean a wagon? I'd be interested if it were a sedan. It does. You should still be interested.  astrollinthepork posted:So I got the 740 sitting out in my driveway. poo poo that needs replaced/fixed/ripped off: Fuckin' rad.  Where's the pics?The Bulb Integrity Sensor works like this: http://www.mikeponte.com/volvo/bulbsen.htm Essentially, if any one bulb burns out, the reed sensor is pulled out of the center (because the windings are no longer balanced) and completes the warning light circuit. There's a reed that handles all four headlights and a reed for the combination tail/brakelights. Also, when there's no voltage at all (both sides out), it'll light up. The important thing here is that it runs on "actual voltage" and not "any voltage" so whenever you replace a bulb, replace both bulbs. Also, if you have heavy connector corrosion on one side (or circuit resistance for whatever reason), this can trigger it. If you think yours is bad (ie the connectors look good and your bulbs are good), the by far easiest way to test it is to swap in another. I got a couple spares if that's the case. When you go to do the fuel filter, you'll find it suspended in rubber in a tray next to the main fuel pump under the driver's side door. Pull the two bolts closest to the side of the car out of the tray and it should swing down for easy access. For the love of god take your time and be careful with the line between the fuel pump and the filter; I like to have a new one in hand just in case. If it's never been replaced it's easy to ruin when you get mad at how hard it is to get the banjo bolt out of the fuel filter because the PO etc etc  . While you're doing fuel stuff, check all your lines, and trace that electrical poo poo. It sounds like your PO had something go bad with his fuel pump relay and just wired around it.To get to the in-tank pump and the sender, go into the trunk and look under the carpet on the left side, forward of the spare tire well. There'll be a plate with 4 bolts in it that leads under the car to the gas tank. There'll be a huge plastic ring that you need a hammer and a screwdriver or punch to turn (or the right specialty tool) and a rubber gasket ring that probably should be replaced. Be careful of damaging the sender as you lift the assembly out. Don't take it out just for fun, if you're replacing all or part of it, have those parts ready. I get my rotors for $25 apiece at Car Quest. I bought a front and rear loaded caliper from FCPGroton last year for cheap, just remember that loaded calipers usually come with a pad that's going to wear faster than usual (ie cheap). You'll need to know if you have Girling or Bendix pads, they aren't interchangable. Bendix have two small posts that stick up to center the pad in the caliper, and Girling have a single large post with a pivoting spring (shaped like a "3") mounted in the middle that does the same thing. You could mount either type on the car no problem, but if they don't match you'll be buying both kinds of brakes every (other) time.  Also, ABS vs. non-ABS.The only reason you'd need to replace the calipers is if they're leaking or stuck, though; your noise could be a lot of things. Also, if you replace a caliper, take a hard look at the brake hose, because this will be the best time to replace it. Bend it, if cracks yawn open it's time. You're in for a goddamned treat if you need to replace the front caliper, there's two lines and two pistons. When you replace your cap and rotor, stick your cell phone back there and take a photo of the distributor to see if there's any oil leaking from the shaft seal. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 18:08 on May 21, 2011 |
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May 21, 2011 18:04
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kimbo305 posted:Does the 5 mean a wagon? I'd be interested if it were a sedan. Interested in an N/A 98 S70?  I guess everyone to their own, but I love the wagons. I do have an unhealthy relationship with my car though (not a car fucker), so i'm mostly kidding.
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May 21, 2011 22:27
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Just picked up a Sparco Evo II XL and a Sparco Sprint for $150 + 3 Virgos. The Sprint was used in the Gumball rally in a guy's yellow M3 before he wrecked it. Kind of cool.  What would you guys recommend for adjustable brackets for a '75 Volvo 240? 
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May 22, 2011 02:42
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Splizwarf posted:It does. You should still be interested. I was speeding along in my S2000 on I-93 when this black 850 marched up behind me. I moved into the slower lane and it boosts up and whooshes by me. It was an 850R sedan, and it fuckin rocked. That is why I'm into them.
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May 22, 2011 13:25
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For what it's worth, the wagon is more aerodynamic than the sedan, and they weigh just about the same. One has an inny trunk and the other has an outie.
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May 22, 2011 13:32
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No pics of the 740 yet because I want the pos gone. Didn't have a 20 mm socket for the plugs or the correct rotor so it still runs like poo poo. I knocked it out of timing trying to cram the rotor on the distributor. Then coming home from work this morning I ran into a huge problem. The drat thing would not spin past 2k rpm, so it wouldn't poo poo out of first or go faster than 25. I get home and put it in park. I tried to rev it and it would still stop at 2k. I turned it off and it wouldn't loving start. Any ideas? It looks like I made a huge gamble and lost. I need a car a month ago so I need to get this running so I can unload it somewhere other than a salvage yard. loving POs.
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May 23, 2011 13:36
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^^^ TBH, I'm surprised you bought a car without test driving it. The instant that guy said he'd have to drive it would have been the minute I would have walked away. But with used cars there is always the chance of getting a lemon. Volvos are no exception.
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May 23, 2011 14:00
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Wait, it was running before you mucked with the distributor, right? PM me pics, I'm in the area.
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May 23, 2011 14:59
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A 3/4" deep will do the spark plugs (I never found spark sockets in metric). What do you mean about knocking the timing out? You can adjust it by turning the distributor, but you have to loosen the hold-down bolt on the side of the unit. Revving, does it just stay at 2000 no matter how hard you push the gas pedal, or does it break up and die as it goes over 2000?
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May 23, 2011 15:17
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Ehhh, I was able to drive it for a minute or two. I didn't learn anything new by doing that. Maybe it was because I just got off a 12 hour shift but I vaguely recall a 3/4 socket being slightly too small with a 21 mm being slightly too large. The car was running after I mucked the distributor too. I didn't notice a change but I assumed I knocked it off a little. As I was putting the old rotor back on, the distributor spun around a little. I turned it back to where it was and it did turn quite freely. I was able to drive it home from work and back again. The issue didn't happen until 10 minutes from leaving work today. It was right after I turned onto my road. Nothing happened during the turn, I just couldn't get past 2k rpm and 25 mph after. It just stops at 2k, it won't go past at all. Pics will be posted tomorrow, I'm in school til 6, then work from 12 a to 8 a. Thanks for the offer meatpimp. astrollinthepork fucked around with this message at 16:13 on May 23, 2011 |
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May 23, 2011 15:42
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Most of these issues sound frustrating but (hopefully relatively) minor - it's hard to diagnose exactly, but the "won't rev past 2k/25mph" sounds like your Air Mass Meter might be needing a replace. It's been 15 years since I did mine, but it had very similar symptoms when mine crapped out - it was a $100/3 hour fix and the car immediately roared back into life after I swapped it out. I believe on the 740 you can just unplug it (it's on the right side of the bay, near the air cleaner housing - if the car starts/idles/revs better with it unplugged, you can be relatively certain the AMM needs replacing. If that's the case, try to go with Bosch or Volvo OEM if you can.
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May 23, 2011 19:17
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Another issue with the 98 V70T5 of Doom. Is it common for the connector for the upper radiator hose to just snap cleanly off, spraying coolant all over the engine compartment? How hard is a radiator swap?
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May 23, 2011 21:55
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Arzakon posted:Another issue with the 98 V70T5 of Doom. Is it common for the connector for the upper radiator hose to just snap cleanly off, spraying coolant all over the engine compartment? How hard is a radiator swap? It sounds like the hose clamp got tightened too hard and cracked the connector, making it a pressure-fused bomb. A swap's not that bad, AFAIK it's a drop in and hook up exercise. The fun part is finding the three to five bolts in the front bottom of the header panel, which covers it on top. Ether Frenzy posted:I believe on the 740 you can just unplug it (it's on the right side of the bay, near the air cleaner housing - if the car starts/idles/revs better with it unplugged, you can be relatively certain the AMM needs replacing. This; also, stick a funnel in your gas tank and listen to see if the tank pump is running, and under the car for the main pump. My money's on a fuel delivery problem, given the missing relay. My wife and I talked over low-fuel-pressure scenarios: A: the in-tank pump motor tracked, melted a winding, or the circuit just shorted between the relay and the pump, and burned the relay, and then failed the rest of the way after when the PO hack-wired it. Check in the area behind the left rear wheel well, inside the car, for the wiring. The main pump can suck enough fuel to limp the car around a little even if the in-tank seizes. B: clogged ("Lo-Flo"!)fuel filter (no easy test for this but you were going to replace it anyway, put a funnel to it and see how it flows when it's off the car) C: dramatically failed fuel pressure regulator (pull the vacuum line off it and sniff it, if it smells like gas, the diaphragm's failed) I wish I had volume/minute numbers to hand you. I have a crazy busy day tomorrow but Wednesday I will pull my fuel supply line at the rail, point it into a gallon jug and see what my flow rate is, we have the same car so yours should be the same or better if you have good fuel pressure and volume. Real low fuel pressure seems like a good fit for your hard start problem too.
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May 24, 2011 01:26
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Yeah, and what Splizwarf said is the other suggestion I would have come up with for your symptoms - another 240 of mine had problems with the in-tank pump as well and it would be really coughy-sputtery sometimes on cold starts, and sort of feel like if you got it over it's mild emphysema and up to 35mph once it would always improve. But that will also give you that 'I'm goddamn flooring it, what in the poo poo, car' feeling of everything seeming to be running okay (if rough) but never revving past just above idle. These cars are TOO easy for idiot POs to circumvent a dead relay or fuse and leave you with things that function but shouldn't. I had a discovery like that in my headlamp line about 10 years into owning an '85, and when I finally tracked it down it solved a ton of other minor electrical gremlins - the car should have burned down years ago and somehow it hadn't.
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May 24, 2011 01:54
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Another thing..I had this happen with my 940T...the intake hose was weak/old and pressing down on the pedal made it fall on its face. Found out the hose was collapsing and so it was choking off the air. Feel your hoses for cracks/weaknesses and that might be adding to the problem.
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May 24, 2011 02:07
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Pictures!     Oil all over the right side of the engine  RF wheel, Jesus Christ
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May 24, 2011 23:43
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You have holes in the intake tube after the MAF. That will make a car run like poo poo or not at all. The dryer vent hose looking tube. That must be solid, please don't tape it.
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May 25, 2011 02:44
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The oil probably isn't anything to be too concerned about-any engine that's had a bad flame trap for a while will usually end up looking like that. Those plug wires are doubtless of poo poo quality; replace those, get the intake hose replaced, and get some Bosch copper plugs installed, and see what happens. Redblocks aren't terribly picky motors, but if the basics aren't there, they'll do exactly what you're experiencing. And replace the flame trap. The only purpose of the distributor in that year of 740 is to offer a path for the spark from the coil to the plugs-its position shouldn't matter too much, and IIRC, it can't really be adjusted that much anyway. It looks a lot like my 240 did when I got it. Assuming that the PO(s) didn't muck around with the wiring, there's nothing there beyond saving.
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May 25, 2011 03:38
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What are the chances this could be a good car to flip? http://desmoines.craigslist.org/cto/2394843863.html The OBDII codes are listed, maybe some of you guys come across this. If its easy, it might be worth a quick buck.
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May 25, 2011 03:48
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Thought I'd post some pics of a meet I went to 2 weeks ago. It was organized around a vintage car cruise, so we tried to get the older cars out. A few regular newer cars showed as well. This was really special, a 242 GT, all original one owner with something like 70k miles on it. It's in fantastic condition, the owner doesn't like showing it because he doesn't think it's show quality.  He doesn't understand that being unrestored and in this great condition nets him tons of points over the guys who have done restoration and poo poo.  And then we have my friend Brett's '79 262. Tony Bertone.  He blacked out all the emblems.  The paint is almost as flat and reflective as the glass.  Racing seats, 5 speed, and it has a B21 turbo conversion (done when that was the hot setup, years ago).  Lined up again later  Look at the reflection in the hood. Not a ripple. It really has flawless bodywork, he says he's never going to have a black car again.  And a whole front quarter shot. I think he has more money in this car than I have in all 3 of mine combined. 
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May 25, 2011 04:03
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*black volvo* Never thought I'd see a gangster version of a volvo..but I've been wrong before...
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May 25, 2011 05:06
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Holy pimping poo poo that's perfect! Also, the unrestored 242 makes me want pinstriping. On my v70.
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May 25, 2011 07:33
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BrokenKnucklez posted:What are the chances this could be a good car to flip? Sounds like it needs a new throttle body (only 700 on FCP!), but in nice shape otherwise (wonder how new the tires are). Could be a nice parts car if you have a 99 S70 though.
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May 25, 2011 12:42
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zenless posted:Sounds like it needs a new throttle body (only 700 on FCP!), but in nice shape otherwise (wonder how new the tires are). Could be a nice parts car if you have a 99 S70 though. Well, I did some searching and it looks like Idle Air Control and Mass Airflow Sensor..... Whats the chances of those both just needing a good cleaning? The only other problem I see with trying to flip that car is the fact that it has 208k miles.... If I didn't have my 540i, it would make a good beater/dd. Edit: Looks like it could be the ETM.... Can those be cleaned as well or am I am going to be replacing the entire part? BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 15:22 on May 25, 2011 |
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May 25, 2011 15:13
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Well, I did some searching and it looks like Idle Air Control and Mass Airflow Sensor..... Whats the chances of those both just needing a good cleaning? There was actually a recall on that part, but i believe there was (only) a 10 year 200k mile window, so you're hosed there. Here's a good looking site on the entire shebang: http://www.vexedvolvo.org/ These guys do refurbs (slightly less then a new unit): http://www.xemodex.com I found a couple articles on it at Volvoforums, but it sounded like cleaning only lead to a temp fix (200 miles?)
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May 25, 2011 16:12
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Here's a PV544 I came across in Prague, it's a beautiful car, I thought you Volvo nuts might like it  
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May 25, 2011 16:21
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Yesterday, I was finally able to replace the rotor, plugs, and wires with new bosch parts as well as sealing up the hose (I totally taped it). The plugs that were in it were poo poo autolites gapped to something hilarious like .60. It started up instantly, so I called it a night. Came out today, and the hard start issue is still there. The 2k rpm limit is gone though.
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May 27, 2011 01:05
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Hehehe you cheap bastard. You'll fit right in with the beater Volvo crowd. (That's not a slam, I've moved on to nice ones but I still consider myself an honorary member).
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May 27, 2011 06:42
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LloydDobler posted:Hehehe you cheap bastard. You'll fit right in with the beater Volvo crowd. (That's not a slam, I've moved on to nice ones but I still consider myself an honorary member). I just want like, a nice 850 GLT wagon in faded red man. I saw one several years ago with a gigantic Slayer sticker in a side window. I hate Slayer, but drat it I loved that car and that sticker. I may have to renounce my membership untill I get one because I'm at work right now and the drat thing won't start. Battery is charged, lights come on, relay clicks, but the drat starter refuses to move. Oh, and I put my knee in the seat and went right through the seam in the leather. So this is what I'm dealing with: One or both of the front brakes are making a hosed up grinding noise while moving now, it used to only be when braking. All of the calipers are chunks of orange powder that are in the vague shape of calipers. An insane oil leak that will leave anywhere between a palm sized to a basketball sized puddle under the car. The level seems to stay the same. Fuel pump sounds screwed up. Really weak and uhh waver-y. I can't find the fuse because someone either moved it or bypassed it. A piece of tape on the fusebox cover reads "Fuel pump fuse on left side of console under carpet" HAHA there's nothing under the drat carpet! From what I can gather from the OBD, a $100 O2 sensor is bad or it's running rich. I'm sure there are other codes I'm missing. I don't know much about misfires, but the idle cuts out a little. Especially after the first 10 seconds of it being started. Shouldn't the CEL come on when it does this? The 4th gear disengagement button works infrequently. Instead the car likes to turn it on or off randomly. It leans heavily towards being on 80% of the time. So I'm cruising at 55 doing like 4.5k rpm. On the way to work tonight, it came on while I was doing 55 and downshifted. I know of the bypass, but I've heard about something to do with cutting a slot in the solenoid. Any details on that? Finally, this car is slow as gently caress. Maybe half as fast as my 80 something HP, 2700 lb Fiero with a hosed up throttle that only opened halfway. Coming from a Fiero, speed is one of the least important things about cars but this is insane. I'll time a 0-60 if it ever runs again. I'm guessing 16 seconds or so. I want to like this car so much. I love the styling, the feel of it, and the ski hole in the backseat. The drat thing just glides through curves like I've never felt before. Smoothest ride I've been in too. If I was deaf and blind it'd be a bitchin' ride. I'm feeling the call of GM again and it's like getting divorced at 40 and checking out the fat chicks at the bar. Someone give me a quick fix because I don't want to call AAA in the morning. astrollinthepork fucked around with this message at 09:19 on May 27, 2011 |
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May 27, 2011 09:14
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Splizwarf posted:
I missed this post. Where can I find this regulator? You're telling me there's TWO pumps? Daaaammmnnn it D:
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May 27, 2011 09:24
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astrollinthepork posted:I missed this post. Where can I find this regulator? One in the tank, one on the line.
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May 27, 2011 13:52
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Yeah, go back and find those posts because I would wager at this point with what you've changed so far that the in-tank fuel pump is likely the main culprit for your continuing start/ignition problems. All Volvos of this era leak a bit of oil, basketball sized sounds a bit over what you should be seeing but you will always have some drip. Regarding it being slow, it will always be a bit slow compared to even the shittiest of economyboxes from the current era, but you should probably be a little quicker than a Fiero, if my 15 year old butt-dyno numbers are still coherent (the last time I rode in a Fiero) - so hopefully you can get some of these little things ironed out and enjoy the ride some more. Those cars only weigh about 3000 pounds, and you should have considerably more horses as well (once you get it working right.)
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May 28, 2011 00:22
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astrollinthepork posted:I missed this post. Where can I find this regulator? Sorry I missed this yesterday, started a new job.  If you got a full battery and the starter's not clickin', either your Park/Neutral Safety Switch is out of alignment or your battery-to-starter or starter-to-ground (less likely) connection is in bad shape. First, try starting it in Neutral. If no, then try shaking the shifter back and forth in Park and then in Neutral while the key's in the ignition position. Yes, this is a little awkward.  If you have a loose shifter, you may want to open it up and clean the P/NSS contacts with a little fine grit sandpaper or emory cloth because they can be shitted up from long loose shifter abuse from arcing. There's three small rubber bushings on your shifter linkage under the car that you can replace to make your shifter tight like a, well, let's not go there.If no dice, then have someone else hold the key in the ignition position, and go shake the cables coming off the battery. If still no dice, do it at the starter. BE CAREFUL because obviously the engine could start at any time. The odds of having a dead starter are about a billion to one. The number of times I've thought I might have a dead starter on two different 740s is a little higher. It's never the starter. The odds of a badly corroded or nearly broken battery to starter connection on the other hand, they're pretty great. Even if it turns out to be the P/NSS, you'll want to explore your at-battery wiring further for preventative reasons. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 13:55 on May 28, 2011 |
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May 28, 2011 13:30
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I'll agree with that. I've driven and worked on a wide variety of Volvos for the last 25 years and I've never replaced a Volvo starter.
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May 29, 2011 07:32
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Quick question: For those of you with lh2.4 with a wideband, what are your AFRs like during cruise and idle? My car doesn't idle rock steady, most don't, but it's in good running condition. At cruise around 70mph my afr's are bouncing between 14.2 and 15.2 sometimes jumping to 15 very rarely, and then staying at around 15 for a second or two. At idle it fluctuates between 14.8 and 15.3 rapidly. Is this normal or do I have a bigger issue? If so, what should I be looking at?
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May 31, 2011 04:30
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Thinking about taking a 4hr greyhound bus trip (the tallahassee area is the volvo black hole) to buy this car sight unseen. I talked to the guy for about 30 mins and he seemed pretty stand up. Apparently it's immaculate. Am I out of my mind? http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/2410766467.html
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Jun 1, 2011 16:11
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Leroy Diplowski posted:Thinking about taking a 4hr greyhound bus trip (the tallahassee area is the volvo black hole) to buy this car sight unseen. I talked to the guy for about 30 mins and he seemed pretty stand up. Apparently it's immaculate. Am I out of my mind? Just some things to be aware of: that car has LH 2.2 EFI, and being an '87, it's vulnerable to degradation of the wiring harness in the engine bay, which can cause all sorts of fun problems when it starts to fall apart. If the overdrive isn't working, you'll need to replace the OD solenoid on the transmission, which is something of a pain in the rear end. That said, it sounds like it's been well-maintained over its life, and the price is reasonable. Just check the wiring in the engine bay and make sure that there's not crumbling insulation or other signs of degradation. If you drive it back, you'll be turning ~3000RPM at 65mph the whole way without OD, but it won't kill it. Just be prepared to take the bus back if it doesn't check out. Ask for more pictures if you haven't already.
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Jun 1, 2011 17:33
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Yeah, more pictures of things like the engine bay and interior will tell you if it matches the condition he's saying. If he's telling the truth, it's a good price for a good car. My dad sells low mileage 240s for $3500 all day long.
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Jun 1, 2011 18:10
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TheJeffers posted:you'll need to replace the OD solenoid on the transmission, which is something of a pain in the rear end. Thanks for the advice! It's the odometer that stopped working the overdrive is fine . Yeah, the guy's weird typing style was luckily very unlike his phone manner. I'll be sure to check the wiring harness and connections. If all of the power accessories work would that be a good indicator of solid wiring elsewhere? Is the 2.2 an otherwise solid motor?
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Jun 1, 2011 18:12
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