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I want to make a scrap book type of thing as gift. What material is best for a cover? How do I bind it? What kind of paper is best to glue photos to? Im looking for very high quality materials but also an earthy/look/feel. I kind of like the binding it by hand/twine look. Thanks handy goons.
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May 23, 2011 17:45
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I'm a scrap booking newbie, but if you have a Hobby Lobby near you they will have a pretty good selection of supplies and equipment. I'm pretty sure they have equipment for binding, so it's somewhere to start for ideas or to pick up supplies.
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May 23, 2011 18:11
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I have a sump pump in my crawlspace that discharges fairly regularly, and as a result there's a spot by my house that's saturated with water to the point where it's basically a pile of mud. The sump pump discharges on the surface into a bed of gravel, but beyond the gravel (about 3-4') is where it gets muddy. It's a high traffic area and I'd like to move the discharge somewhere else. We just run a 50' hose from the external discharge of the sump to the front sidewalk.
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May 23, 2011 18:59
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stimpy posted:after a pretty ridiculous windstorm, I noticed that a couple of shingles on our roof have pulled up a bit. Is just climbing my big rear end up there and nailing them down all I need to do? That seems way too easy... Nail them back in or put in new ones. Only nail where they're supposed to be nailed http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/roof/repairs/replshingle/singletab.html
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May 23, 2011 19:42
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I have a sump pump in my crawlspace that discharges fairly regularly, and as a result there's a spot by my house that's saturated with water to the point where it's basically a pile of mud. The sump pump discharges on the surface into a bed of gravel, but beyond the gravel (about 3-4') is where it gets muddy. It's a high traffic area and I'd like to move the discharge somewhere else. Dry well is a good idea. You just need some large area for water to be contained to give it enough time to soak into the earth. Use mulch where needed too, its good for covering up wet soil and as it breaks down, it will become better soil that can absorb moisture better. Oh, and plant a fruit tree by the dry well 
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May 23, 2011 19:47
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I have a 65" TV that, while super-light, is about 16" deep and thus too deep for regular glass shelving. I'd love to put it on a glass shelf and get rid of the ugly TV stand, but I can't find anything deeper than 12" online. Would it be better just to get a 3/8" or 1/2" thick piece cut to measure and just fab up some brackets, or are there options out there?
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May 25, 2011 04:14
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GD_American posted:I have a 65" TV that, while super-light, is about 16" deep and thus too deep for regular glass shelving. I'd love to put it on a glass shelf and get rid of the ugly TV stand, but I can't find anything deeper than 12" online. Would it be better just to get a 3/8" or 1/2" thick piece cut to measure and just fab up some brackets, or are there options out there? It will be far cheaper to have a piece cut & toughened for you than to track down & purchase a specialist shelf. If you can sort brackets yourself again you will be saving.
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May 25, 2011 07:06
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Fixed it thanks.
Bank fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Jun 1, 2011 |
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May 25, 2011 19:55
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It's no wonder the cockgobbling builders of my subdivision went bankrupt. Tonight, the range hood started to fall down. I looked at it, and apparently they drove four screws (3 wood, one drywall, from the looks of things) straight through the sheet metal and into/through the cabinetry, which has now chipped and splintered where they employed their masterful craft. The top of the hood has four spaces about the size of a nickel in each corner with keyhole slots. Could I get away with gluing/securing some blocks beneath the recessed area of the cabinetry, then setting up screws for the keyhole slots and going that route? Or is there a better way? I'd appreciate any advice! I can provide pictures if necessary.
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May 25, 2011 22:34
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A Child's Letter posted:It's no wonder the cockgobbling builders of my subdivision went bankrupt. Tonight, the range hood started to fall down. I looked at it, and apparently they drove four screws (3 wood, one drywall, from the looks of things) straight through the sheet metal and into/through the cabinetry, which has now chipped and splintered where they employed their masterful craft. If this is an under-cabinet hood (and it sounds like it), then it's designed to be mounted directly to your cabinets. If necessary, you can attach filler boards under the cabinet to screw into, but there's nothing wrong with screwing into the cabinets themselves, provided you do it properly. Pre-drill, don't get so close to the surface it splits it, etc.
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May 26, 2011 01:32
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grover posted:Those sound like electrical knock-outs; you don't want to use them for mounting. Thanks for the advice. It looks like the builders tried to toenail through the cabinets, but they missed in at least two places, and in at least one other, where they'd managed to get through has broken off. No one will see it once the hood's up, so I don't care so much about that, but I don't want to compound the problem. Forgive my ignorance, but what would be the "proper" way to correct this mistake? Again: Thanks!
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May 26, 2011 03:53
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A Child's Letter posted:Thanks for the advice. It looks like the builders tried to toenail through the cabinets, but they missed in at least two places, and in at least one other, where they'd managed to get through has broken off. No one will see it once the hood's up, so I don't care so much about that, but I don't want to compound the problem. Forgive my ignorance, but what would be the "proper" way to correct this mistake? Again: Thanks!
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May 26, 2011 10:53
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When I put my new range hood up, it had nickel sized keyhole slots and the manual said to put in screws with washers and slide the whole thing over them, then tighten everything down.
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May 26, 2011 17:42
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Any tool set recommendations? I want one that's really high quality but the variety of tools doesn't have to be that huge because I live in an apartment.
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May 27, 2011 06:40
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Cicero posted:Any tool set recommendations? I want one that's really high quality but the variety of tools doesn't have to be that huge because I live in an apartment. For high quality hand tools, get ones that are guaranteed forever, like Sears' Craftsman, Home Depot's Husky or Lowes' Kobalt brands. Try to get ones still made in the USA, there is a difference in quality over Chinese steel. They do make sets specifically for home owners that contain most of the tools you'd need for maintaining a house or apartment: hanging a picture, tightening screws, etc. Spend enough and you'll get a tote to carry them all in. Something like this or this would be great. We also have another thread here for specific tools if you need anything beyond common hand tools.
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May 27, 2011 19:50
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stupid silkscreening question, couldn't find any other thread for it: I just hosed up two screens and need to reclaim them (ie strip everything off without destroying the mesh); problem is I didn't use the light-sensitive emulsion stuff, which is apparently easy to remove, and all the instructions online are for removing that. I used the screen mask stuff that you just paint on the parts you don't want and it sets - it's basically paint that just stays on the screen and blocks the ink. The instructions said to use arm and hammer washing soda, which I'd never heard of, but I got a box and used it as per instructions and it took off a teeny tiny layer but not nearly enough to actually clean the drat things. I really don't want to buy new screens as I haven't even USED these ones because they're hosed up. The actual stuff I used was speedball "screen filler," NOT the diazio light-sensitive stuff. Can I just use some kind of basic paint remover/turpentine or something? I'm just afraid the mesh will melt, and that poo poo's expensive. tl;dr: how do I get screen mask off a silk screen without destroying it?
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May 28, 2011 02:31
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fuzzy_logic posted:speedball screen filler I seem to remember that it comes off pretty nicely with a pressure washer. If you don't have access to one, maybe try a garden hose with an aggressive nozzle.
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May 28, 2011 14:47
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artificialj posted:I seem to remember that it comes off pretty nicely with a pressure washer. If you don't have access to one, maybe try a garden hose with an aggressive nozzle. Kitchen sink sprayer right against the screen.
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May 28, 2011 14:56
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eddiewalker posted:Kitchen sink sprayer right against the screen. Yeah, good call.
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May 28, 2011 19:23
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fuzzy_logic posted:tl;dr: how do I get screen mask off a silk screen without destroying it? Does the paint you used list a solvent? What do they suggest you clean it up with? It's likely acetone will take it off. I remember using that years ago on screens (it was pretty typical at the time) but I believe commercially there are safer/less toxic alternatives now.
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May 31, 2011 15:56
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Motronic posted:Does the paint you used list a solvent? What do they suggest you clean it up with? they suggested arm & hammer washing soda (which is a thing, apparently!) so I tried that and it didn't do a thing. The high-pressure hose suggested by the thread works okay, but very slowly. If I want to stand in the yard all day spraying screens I could probably get most of it off eventually. I was looking for something that would just immediately dissolve all of it though. I wish I had more info to give you about the mask fluid but there's literally no information on the bottle or in the kit about what the hell it actually is. I figure any type of paint remover should strip it but like I said, I don't want to damage the screen. If acetone would work that's cool, but could something weaker, like turpentine maybe work? Problem is I'm not sure it's oil-based. edit: I went to the crafty-type store near me and asked them - apparently Greased Lightning will take it off. The bottle says it removes everything from blood to mildew, so I'm hoping that'll do it, I'll let you know once the rain stops. fuzzy_logic fucked around with this message at 23:10 on May 31, 2011 |
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May 31, 2011 20:53
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I have recently found that the carpet in the corners of my basement apartment get wet when it rains. Not so wet that water pools on the surface, but damp and soggy to the touch. My landlord it seems couldn't give a poo poo, given that I have told him about it twice and he has yet to come over and look. I am starting to notice a bit of black mould forming, and I would like to stop it. Moving is not an option, for a variety of reasons. I borrowed a shop-vac (wet&dry vacuum) from work and pulled about 2 litres (1/2 gallon) of water from the damp areas, which reduced the damp feeling, but it is not dry by any means. I am wondering if there is a way to extract the moisture from the carpet? Would road-salt or a bulk bag of rice do the business? Maybe a whole load of those moisture absorbing pellets? I don't want a dehumidifier, because they cost lots to run and don't work directly on the problem - the air in the house isn't damp, just small parts of the carpet.
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Jun 1, 2011 01:23
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JimbobDobalina posted:I have recently found that the carpet in the corners of my basement apartment get wet when it rains. Not so wet that water pools on the surface, but damp and soggy to the touch. My landlord it seems couldn't give a poo poo, given that I have told him about it twice and he has yet to come over and look. If you're in the US, and you're getting black mold because of a dampness problem, I believe that is grounds to stop rent until it is fixed, as that is a serious health risk. I don't think road salt/rice/pellets are going to dry it out enough (and you'll spend a fortune on all, since they are one-time use.
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Jun 1, 2011 03:41
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Dragyn posted:If you're in the US, and you're getting black mold because of a dampness problem, I believe that is grounds to stop rent until it is fixed, as that is a serious health risk. Your landlord is almost certainly full of poo poo. Wet carpet due to rain is HIS/HER problem and will go from an annoyance to a health issue to making the place a smelly toxic cesspool in a matter of days. Tell the landlord you expect it to be fixed or you will call the city/county and have THEM deal with it.
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Jun 1, 2011 18:24
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JimbobDobalina posted:I have recently found that the carpet in the corners of my basement apartment get wet when it rains. Not so wet that water pools on the surface, but damp and soggy to the touch. My landlord it seems couldn't give a poo poo, given that I have told him about it twice and he has yet to come over and look. Look up tenant rights agencies in your state or county and contact them
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Jun 1, 2011 18:46
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I need help on a project I'm working on (converting a tape player to a guitar distortion stomp box). Is there an electronics megathread (didn't see one), post it here or make a new thread?
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Jun 2, 2011 16:10
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Release the Magic Blue Smoke, it's the Learning Electronics MEGATHREAD
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Jun 2, 2011 16:37
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Just bought an old house, it gets VERY warm on the upper level on hot days. Put up a window unit in the master bedroom, which will now stay cool, but the rest of the upper floor is feels MUCH warmer than downstairs.(Feels like 10-15 degrees) The ceilings are slightly warm to the touch, especially around the fold-down attic stairs. Besides putting more insulation in the attic, would increasing attic ventilation help? This house originally had 4 12x24" in the attic, two of which were covered up when an addition was put on the rear of the house. The two remaining on the front of the house are nailed shut, and a single gable vent was put on the rear of the house. Should I replace the two windows with vents? I can feel a little bit of air moving at the gable vent, but the attic is extremely hot. The attic is not usable space, we just store a few things up there. House has what looks to be a tin roof, with the original wood shingles visible under it in the attic. Attic floor is insulated with crumbly-looking dust of some kind. It's at least 6 inches thick.
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Jun 2, 2011 18:27
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heyou posted:Just bought an old house, it gets VERY warm on the upper level on hot days. Put up a window unit in the master bedroom, which will now stay cool, but the rest of the upper floor is feels MUCH warmer than downstairs.(Feels like 10-15 degrees) The ceilings are slightly warm to the touch, especially around the fold-down attic stairs. Besides putting more insulation in the attic, would increasing attic ventilation help? This house originally had 4 12x24" in the attic, two of which were covered up when an addition was put on the rear of the house. The two remaining on the front of the house are nailed shut, and a single gable vent was put on the rear of the house. Should I replace the two windows with vents? I can feel a little bit of air moving at the gable vent, but the attic is extremely hot. The attic is not usable space, we just store a few things up there. House has what looks to be a tin roof, with the original wood shingles visible under it in the attic. Attic floor is insulated with crumbly-looking dust of some kind. It's at least 6 inches thick. What's up, vermiculite buddy. You're going to want at least two vents in your attic to get a cross-breeze through there. If there's no way to get another vent in the wall, maybe consider a turbine through the roof. An attic fan would probably help too, they make solar powered ones so you don't have to muck around with your house's undoubtedly ancient wiring. e: Oh FYI there's a decent chance that vermiculite has asbestos in it, so you probably want to limit your exposure to that as well.
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Jun 2, 2011 18:54
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stubblyhead posted:What's up, vermiculite buddy. You're going to want at least two vents in your attic to get a cross-breeze through there. If there's no way to get another vent in the wall, maybe consider a turbine through the roof. An attic fan would probably help too, they make solar powered ones so you don't have to muck around with your house's undoubtedly ancient wiring. Oh sweet, asbestos! Googled vermiculite, yep that's what it looks like. No ancient wiring here, the previous owners did a bunch of renovation, including new wiring throughout, and drywall with lots of insulation. I could easily take out the nailed-shut windows, I'll see what Lowe's or HD has in the way of a vent. Any way to tell if there is asbestos in the vermiculite? Should I just not disturb it and not worry about it or will I need to get rid of it?
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Jun 2, 2011 19:11
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I just moved out of my studio apartment in central Austin, Texas, that I rented for two years into a two-bedroom house in east Austin that I'm renting for two years. My back yard has a shed that I want to use for storage and as a project space, but it's inhabited by wasps. There are a couple of nests that I can see, but the wasp presence is enough to keep me the gently caress out of there. Also, I may end up keeping bees if the yard is big enough that I don't need a flyway barrier. I can't afford professional wasp removal unless I've grossly overestimated its cost, but I have no problem using the harshest, most ecologically-devastating poisons if that's what it takes. Any advice? I did find this brilliant website that I'd like to share. It explains the dangers of DIY wasp removal quite plainly (?): "Being impervious to a greater extent the colonies of wasps may not be removed as easily as any one may suppose it to be because the wasps smell the danger existing of their lives and dwellings due to which they attack on the stranger visiting near their nestle. Steps to be taken in order to annihilate the wasp colonies should be taken only under expert’s guidance"
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Jun 2, 2011 19:30
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elevatordeadline posted:wasps I did something like this: http://www.sentex.net/~mwandel/built/wasp-sucker.html with a crappy shopvac when helping renovate a house with a nest in a crack in the front steps. If they're entering the shed in one main location, just get the nozzle in pretty close and let it rip until you don't see any more wasps. I should probably note that the vacuum killed them as well, so I had no problems disposing of them afterwards.
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Jun 2, 2011 20:35
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I've had to kill a lot of wasps/hornets in my day. Usually it involves a lot of time spent working up the courage (I have never been stung and don't plan on it). Eventually, it means putting on appropriate clothing (I favor a rainsuit) and then using a hose/wasp spray/broomstick to annihilate as many as possible. Generally they take their leave after the nest is thoroughly destroyed. Being quick on your feet is helpful.
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Jun 2, 2011 20:51
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Friend of mine had massive swarm of wasps that decided to take up residence in his cable headend. You could try his method--take 3 cans of wasp killer spray, rubber band the spray nozzle down, and quickly open the door and throw them in the structure and shut the door. After a day open the door and let the air cycle some more. The wasp grenades did the trick for him.
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Jun 2, 2011 21:04
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elevatordeadline posted:
Fellow Austinite here. I've killed many a wasp. This Spring, there must have been 10-12 nests in our little garden shed. Some of the nests were in boxes or glass containers. All dead now. Buy good (expensive) wasp/hornet spray. You can stand far away, outside the doorway, the spray will go 10 or more feet. Do it in the early morning, when temperatures are lower - the wasps are slower then. Spray. Run. Repeat. I've never been bitten by a wasp using this technique. Alternatively, just get a bug bomb and toss it in there. You could also get a water hose + sprayer attachment. If you can get enough pressure, you can just knock down the nest from afar. Run. One interesting note -- once the wasps are dead, take down the nests and crush or burn em. I say this b/c the little baby wasps probably won't get killed (the husk of the nest will protect them) and they'll pop out in a few days = more wasps. Also, that website you linked is full of poo poo (I suspect that you know that). These wasps aren't in the walls, right? Just spray them. And if they are in the walls, bug bomb em.
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Jun 2, 2011 21:39
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heyou posted:Just bought an old house, it gets VERY warm on the upper level on hot days. Put up a window unit in the master bedroom, which will now stay cool, but the rest of the upper floor is feels MUCH warmer than downstairs.(Feels like 10-15 degrees) The ceilings are slightly warm to the touch, especially around the fold-down attic stairs. Besides putting more insulation in the attic, would increasing attic ventilation help? This house originally had 4 12x24" in the attic, two of which were covered up when an addition was put on the rear of the house. The two remaining on the front of the house are nailed shut, and a single gable vent was put on the rear of the house. Should I replace the two windows with vents? I can feel a little bit of air moving at the gable vent, but the attic is extremely hot. The attic is not usable space, we just store a few things up there. House has what looks to be a tin roof, with the original wood shingles visible under it in the attic. Attic floor is insulated with crumbly-looking dust of some kind. It's at least 6 inches thick. My old house had the same problem. Insulation also made an improvement
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Jun 3, 2011 00:16
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heyou posted:Oh sweet, asbestos! Googled vermiculite, yep that's what it looks like. No ancient wiring here, the previous owners did a bunch of renovation, including new wiring throughout, and drywall with lots of insulation. I could easily take out the nailed-shut windows, I'll see what Lowe's or HD has in the way of a vent. Any way to tell if there is asbestos in the vermiculite? Should I just not disturb it and not worry about it or will I need to get rid of it? You can get it tested I think. If I understand it correctly, most of the vermiculite in the US was mined in Libby, Montana, where there was quite a bit of asbestos as well. The two don't have to go hand in hand, but it is a strong possibility. I'm not an expert or anything, but you should be ok as long as you're not stirring it up, making sand castles out of it, etc. Some local government agency can probably give you more information, department of health maybe?
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Jun 3, 2011 02:01
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dwoloz posted:Yes, vent! Roofs/attics get INSANELY HOT. Ain't that the truth. My sister made the mistake of putting some candles in storage in the attic... She pulled those boxes down in the winter and discovered scented frisbees.
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Jun 3, 2011 03:12
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I've got questions. Our hot water heater is near the bathroom. Almost right outside the wall. In the past few months or so the cold water runs very warm / hot for a few seconds. Why is this happening? All I can think of is some kind of backflush from the heater into the cold line. its pressure relief works fine and I bled it a couple of weeks ago to be sure. Our kitchen was carpeted. Well, half of it still is. There are nice floorboards underneath. Unfortunately the carpet had this awful blue foam underlay which was glued to the floor, and has generally fused with it everywhere else as it decayed with age. how the hell do I get it off? I had a degree of success with orange oil and a paint scraper, but a lot of it just won't budge where it has fused. What do I do? I really want to strip it all and give it a nice urethane coat or something. Then the rest of the house will receive a similar treatment.
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Jun 4, 2011 01:45
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General_Failure posted:Our kitchen was carpeted. Well, half of it still is. There are nice floorboards underneath. Unfortunately the carpet had this awful blue foam underlay which was glued to the floor, and has generally fused with it everywhere else as it decayed with age. how the hell do I get it off? I had a degree of success with orange oil and a paint scraper, but a lot of it just won't budge where it has fused. What do I do? How thick is it? Is it thin enough to where you can just rent a huge floor sander and remove it that way?
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Jun 4, 2011 04:46
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